Chapter II: Appendix: 459

GLOSSARY OF TERMS 503

INDEX 507

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
ANNE, DAUGHTER OF SIR PETER VANLORE, KT. _Frontispiece_
Gold Lace found in a barrow Fig. 1 4
ARGENTAN.--CIRCULAR BOBBIN RÉSEAU; VENETIAN NEEDLEPOINT PLATE I 12
ITALIAN BOBBIN RÉSEAU; SIX-POINTED STAR-MESHED BOBBIN
RÉSEAU; BRUSSELS BOBBIN RÉSEAU; FOND CHANT OF CHANTILLY
AND POINT DE PARIS; DETAILS OF BOBBIN RÉSEAU AND TOILE;
DETAILS OF NEEDLE RÉSEAU AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES PLATE II 14
Point Coupé Fig. 2 18
ALTAR OR TABLE-CLOTH OF FINE LINEN (PROBABLY ITALIAN) PLATE III 18
Laces Fig. 3 19
Elizabethan Sampler " 5 22
Impresa of Queen Margaret of Navarre " 4 23
Spider-work Figs. 6, 7 24
FAN MADE AT BURANO PLATE IV 24
ITALIAN PUNTO REALE " V 24
Grande Dantelle au Point devant l'Aiguille Fig. 8 28
Petite Dantelle Figs. 9-12 29
Passement au Fuseau Figs. 13, 14 30
Passement au Fuseau Fig. 15 31
Merletti a Piombini " 16 31
ITALIAN.--MODERN REPRODUCTION AT BURANO PLATE VI 32
HERALDIC (CARNIVAL LACE) " VII 32
Old Mechlin Fig. 17 35
ITALIAN, VENETIAN, FLAT NEEDLE-POINT LACE PLATE VIII 36
PORTION OF A BAND OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE " IX 36
Guipure Fig. 18 39
Tape Guipure " 19 40
ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À LA ROSE PLATE X 44
ITALIAN.--POINT PLAT DE VENISE " XI 46
ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU " XII 48
Mermaid Lace Fig. 20 50
Reticella " 21 50
Punto a Gropo " 22 52
Gros Point de Venise " 23 52
Punto a Maglia " 24 53
Punto Tirato " 25 54
Point de Venise à Bredes Picotées " 26 54
Venise Point " 27 55
Gros Point de Venise " 28 56
Point de Venise " 29 56
Point Plat de Venise " 30 56
Point de Venise à Réseau " 31 58
Burano Point " 32 60
ITALIAN.--MODERN POINT DE BURANO PLATE XIII 60
ITALIAN.--MODERN REPRODUCTION AT BURANO " XIV 62
ITALIAN.--MILANESE, BOBBIN-MADE " XV 64
Reticella from Milan Fig. 33 65
ITALIAN.--VENETIAN, NEEDLE-MADE PLATE XVI 66
ITALIAN.--MILANESE, BOBBIN-MADE " XVII 66
Unfinished Drawn-work Fig. 34 69
CUSHION MADE AT THE SCHOOL PLATE XVIII 70
ITALY.--GROUP OF WORKERS AT BRAZZA SCHOOL " XIX 70
Genoa Point, Bobbin-made Fig. 35 74
Lace Pattern found in the Church at Santa Margherita " 36 76
ITALIAN.--BOBBIN TAPE WITH NEEDLE-MADE RÉSEAU PLATE XX 76
ITALIAN, GENOESE.--BORDER " XXI 76
Parchment Pattern used to cover a Book Fig. 37 77
Fringed Macramé " 38 80
ITALIAN.--OLD PEASANT LACES, BOBBIN-MADE PLATES XXII, XXIII 80
ITALIAN.--MODERN PEASANT LACE PLATE XXIV 80
Silk Gimp Lace Fig. 39 84
SICILIAN.--OLD DRAWN-WORK PLATE XXV 84
SOUTH ITALIAN " XXVI 84
Reticella, or Greek Lace Fig. 40 85
Loubeaux de Verdale " 41 88
ITALIAN, RAPALLO--MODERN PEASANT LACE PLATE XXVII 88
MALTESE.--MODERN BOBBIN-MADE " XXVIII 88
Bobbin Lace (Ceylon) Fig. 42 89
The Work Room (16th century engraving) " 43 91
Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun " 44 94
SPANISH.--MODERN THREAD BOBBIN LACE PLATE XXIX 94
SPANISH, BLONDE.--WHITE SILK DARNING ON MACHINE NET " XXX 94
Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun Fig. 45 95
" " " " 46 96
Old Spanish Pillow Lace " 47 100
PORTRAIT, DUCHESSE DE MONTPENSIER PLATE XXXI 100
JEWISH " XXXII 104
SPANISH " XXXIII 104
Bobbin Lace (Madeira) Fig. 48 106
" (Brazil) " 49 107
SPANISH.--PILLOW-MADE 19TH CENTURY PLATE XXXIV 108
PARAGUAY.--"NAUDUTI" " XXXV 108
Lace-making Fig. 50 110
FLEMISH.--PORTION OF BED-COVER PLATE XXXVI 110
Cap of Emperor Charles V. Fig. 51 112
Isabella Clara Eugenia, Daughter of Philip II. " 52 112
Mary, Queen of Hungary, Cuff " 53 113
Belgian Lace School " 54 114
Old Flemish Bobbin Lace " 55 114
Old Flemish.--Trolle Kant " 56 115
BRUSSELS.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À BRIDES PLATE XXXVII 116
FLEMISH.--TAPE LACE, BOBBIN-MADE " XXXVIII 116
Brussels Needle-Point Fig. 57 118
" " " 58 120
Brussels.--Point à l'Aiguille " 58A 120
Old Brussels.--Point d'Angleterre " 59 122
" " " " 60 124
MECHLIN, 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY PLATE XXXIX 126
Mechlin.--Period Louis XVI. Fig. 61 127
Mechlin, formerly belonging to H.M. Queen Charlotte " 62 128
MECHLIN.--THREE SPECIMENS FROM VICTORIA AND ALBERT
MUSEUM PLATE XL 128
A Lady of Antwerp Fig. 63 130
Antwerp Pot Lace " 64 130
Valenciennes Lace of Ypres " 65 132
FLEMISH.--FLAT SPANISH BOBBIN LACE PLATE XLI 132
FLEMISH.--GUIPURE DE FLANDRE " XLII 134
BELGIAN.--BOBBIN-MADE, BINCHE " XLIII 136
" " MARCHE " XLIV 136
DRAWN AND EMBROIDERED MUSLIN, FLEMISH " XLV 136
RUFF, EDGED WITH LACE " XLVI 142
BRUSSELS.--FLOUNCE, BOBBIN-MADE " XLVII 144
Cinq-Mars.--M. de Versailles Fig. 66 145
" .--After his portrait by Le Wain " 67 146
Lace Rose and Garter " 68 147
Young Lady's Apron, time of Henry III " 69 148
BRUSSELS.--BOBBIN-MADE, PERIOD LOUIS XIV. PLATE XLVIII 150
" .--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À RÉSEAU " XLIX 150
Anne of Austria Fig. 70 151
A Courtier of the Regency " 71 152
Canons of Louis XIV " 72 154
Chateau de Louvai " 73 156
CHENILLE RUN ON A BOBBIN-GROUND PLATE L 156
BRUSSELS.--BOBBIN-MADE " LI 156
Le Grand Bébé Fig. 74 162
Louvois, 1691 " 75 163
Madame de Maintenon " 76 164
Lady in Morning déshabille " 77 165
Le Grand Dauphin en Steinkerque " 78 168
Madame du Lude en Steinkerque " 79 168
Madame Palatine " 80 169
BRUSSELS.--MODERN POINT DE GAZE PLATE LII 170
Madame Sophie de France, 1782 Fig. 81 175
Madame Adélaide de France " 82 176
MADAME LOUISE DE FRANCE PLATE LIII 176
Madame Thérèse Fig. 83 177
Marie-Antoinette " 84 179
Madame Adélaide de France " 85 182
FRENCH.--BORDER OF POINT PLAT DE FRANCE PLATE LIV 188
Colbert, + 1683 Fig. 86 189
Venice Point " 87 191
FRENCH.--POINT D'ALENÇON PLATE LV 192
Argentella, or Point d'Alençon à Réseau Rosacé Fig. 88 194
Bed made for Napoleon I. " 89 197
Alençon Point à Petites Bredes " 90 200
Point d'Alençon, Louis XV. " 91 200
POINT D'ALENÇON. FLOUNCE PLATE LVI 202-3
Point d'Argentan Fig. 92 204
" " . Grande Bride ground " 93 206
FRENCH.--POINT D'ARGENTAN, 18TH CENTURY PLATE LVII 208
Point de Paris Fig. 94 210
Point de France " 95 210
FRENCH (OR DUTCH).--VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM PLATE LVIII 212
Chantilly Fig. 96 214
Cauchoise " 97 217
FRENCH, CHANTILLY.--FLOUNCE PLATE LIX 218
FRENCH, LE PUY.--BLACK SILK GUIPURE " LX 218
Petit Poussin, Dieppe Fig. 98 219
Ave Maria, Dieppe " 99 220
Point de Dieppe " 100 221
Dentelle à la Vierge " 101 222
Duc de Peuthièvre " 102 223
FRENCH.--BLONDE MALE, IN SPANISH STYLE PLATE LXI 226
Modern Black Lace of Bayeux Fig. 103 227
Point Colbert " 104 228
Valenciennes, 1650-1780 " 105 230
" Period, Louis XIV. " 106 232
" 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY PLATE LXII 232
" Fig. 107 234
Valenciennes Lappet " 108 234
Lille " 109 236
" " 110 238
Arras " 111 240
FRENCH, CAMBRAI PLATES LXIII, LXIV 246
FRENCH, LE PUY PLATE LXV 246
Point de Bourgogne Fig. 112 256
WILLIAM, PRINCE OF ORANGE PLATE LXVI 258
Dutch Bobbin Lace Fig. 113 260
Tomb of Barbara Uttmann " 114 261
Barbara Uttmann " 114A 262
SWISS, NEUCHATEL PLATE LXVII 264
GERMAN, NUREMBERG " LXVIII 264
ENGLISH, BUCKS " LXIX 264
HUNGARIAN.--BOBBIN LACE " LXX 268
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN " LXXI 268
Shirt Collar of Christian IV. Fig. 115 273
Tönder Lace, Drawn Muslin " 116 274
RUSSIAN--NEEDLEPOINT; GERMAN--SAXON PLATE LXXII 276
RUSSIAN, OLD BOBBIN-MADE " LXXIII 276
RUSSIAN, BOBBIN-MADE IN THREAD PLATE LXXIV 280
Dalecarlian Lace Fig. 117 281
Collar of Gustavus Adolphus " 118 282
Russia, Bobbin-made, 19th Century " 119 284
CAP, FLEMISH OR GERMAN PLATE XXV 288
Fisher, Bishop of Rochester Fig. 120 292
ENGLISH.--CUTWORK AND NEEDLE-POINT PLATE LXXVI 292
ENGLISH.--DEVONSHIRE "TROLLY." " LXXVII 292
Fisher, Bishop of Rochester Fig. 121 293
MARIE DE LORRAINE PLATE LXXVIII 298
Queen Elizabeth's Smock Fig. 122 308
Christening Caps, Needle-made Brussels Figs. 123, 124 309
MARY SIDNEY, COUNTESS OF PEMBROKE PLATE LXXIX 316
HENRY WROTHESLEY, THIRD EARL OF SOUTHAMPTON " LXXX 320
Monument of Princess Sophia Fig. 125 321
" " " Mary " 126 322
Mary, Countess of Pembroke " 127 323
ELIZABETH, PRINCESS PALATINE PLATE LXXXI 326
Falling Collar of the 17th Century Fig. 128 327
Boots, Cuffs Figs. 129, 130 328
English Needle-made Lace Fig. 131 328
JAMES HARRINGTON PLATE LXXXII 332
JAMES, THE OLD PRETENDER, AND HIS SISTER, PRINCESS
LOUISA PLATE LXXXIII 344
JOHN LAW, THE PARIS BANKER " LXXXIV 352
Ripon Fig. 132 373
ENGLISH, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXV 374
Buckinghamshire Trolly Fig. 133 381
" Point " 134 382
" " " 135 383
ENGLISH, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXVI 384
Old Flemish Fig. 136 385
Old Brussels " 137 385
"Run" Lace, Newport Pagnell " 138 386
English Point, Northampton " 139 386
"Baby" Lace, Northampton " 140 387
" " Beds " 141 387
" " Bucks " 142 387
Wire Ground, Northampton " 143 388
Valenciennes " " 144 388
Regency Point, Bedford " 145 389
Insertion, " " 146 389
Plaited Lace, " " 147 392
Raised Plait, " " 148 393
ENGLISH, SUFFOLK, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXVII 394
English Needle-made Lace Fig. 149 396
HONITON WITH THE VRAI RÉSEAU PLATE LXXXVIII 402
Bone Lace from Cap, Devonshire Fig. 150 404
Monument of Bishop Stafford, Exeter Cathedral " 151 406
Monument of Lady Doddridge " " " 152 407
Honiton, sewn on plain pillow ground " 153 408
Old Devonshire " 154 408
Honiton Guipure " 155 410
Honeysuckle, Sprig of Modern Honiton " 156 411
Old Devonshire Point " 157 412
Lappet made by the late Mrs. Treadwin of Exeter " 158 412
Venetian Relief in Point " 159 414
ENGLISH.--DEVONSHIRE. FAN MADE AT BEER FOR THE PARIS
EXHIBITION, 1900 PLATE LXXXIX 416
Sir Alexander Gibson Fig. 160 424
Scotch, Hamilton " 161 431
IRISH, YOUGHAL PLATE XC 436
IRISH, CARRICKMACROSS " XCI 442
IRISH, LIMERICK LACE " XCII 442
IRISH, CROCHET LACE " XCIII 446
Arms of the Framework Knitters' Company Fig. 162 447
The Lagetta, or Lace-bark Tree " 163 456
Metre P. Quinty Figs. 164, 165 460
Pattern Book, Augsburg " 166, 167 462
Augsburg Fig. 168 463
Le Pompe, 1559 " 169 473
Manner of Pricking Pattern " 170 486
Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605 " 171 492
Monogram " 172 492
"Bavari," from "Ornamento nobile" of Lucretia Romana " 173 498

{1}HISTORY OF LACE.