Chapter XVI: Part 2: , 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in (1)

squares for stitches like the German patterns of the present day. These
consist of the Seven Planets, Sol, Luna, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus
and Saturn. Four in squares of various designs; two of Amorini shooting
stags and birds; Neptune and the winds; an arabesque with impresa of a
column with circle and double triangle; five borders and squares, and
{479}two "bordures à carreaux," diamond-shaped meshes. The last page
contains the Extract from the Privilege.

This is the original edition of Vinciolo, of which we know but one copy
existing--that in the Library at Rouen.

It was followed the same year by two other editions, with
alterations.[1320]

66.

[Sidenote: 1587. _2nd Ed. 1st Part. F. Vinciolo._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie.
Nouvellement augmentez de plusieurs differens pourtraits servans de
patrons à faire toutes sortes poincts couppé, Lacis, et autres reseau de
poinct conté. Dedié à la Royne. Le tout inventé, au proffit &
contentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits,
amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A.
Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis,
pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.

[Sidenote: _2nd part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie ou
avons augm[=e]té plusieurs nouveaux & differens portraitz de reseau, tout
point conté, plusieurs nouvelles bordures et autres sortes differentes.

Nouvellement inventez au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames &
Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits amateurs d'un tel art. Par le
Seigneur Federick de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le
ieune, Ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret.
Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1321]

1st Part, 40 ff. The same frontispiece, dedications, date, and sonnet,
as the first, the same number of patterns, only the eight styled in the
first "Passemens" are here all called, like the others, "Ouvrages" de
point couppé. (See Fig. 4.)

2nd Part, 32 ff. This part has 30 patterns, comprising the 24 of the
first edition, and six additional ones, consisting of squares and two
hunting subjects.

67.

[Sidenote: 1587. _3rd Edit. No. 1. Parts 1 and 2._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo
Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne.
Derechef et pour la troisieme fois augmentez Outre le reseau premier et
le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de
reseau de point c[=o]té avec le nombre des mailles, choze non encor veue
ni inventée. {480}A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au
Chef Sainct Denis, pres le College de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy.
1587.[1322]

This must be the first impression of the third edition.

[Sidenote: 1588. _3rd Edit. No. 2. 1st Part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo
Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne.
Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier &
le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de
reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor
veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint
Hilaire, du Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du
Roy. 1588.[1323]

68.

[Sidenote: _2nd Part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo
Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne.
Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier &
le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de
reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor
veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint
Hilaire, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du
Roy. 1588.[1324]

This must be subsequent to the Brussels impression, as Jean le Clerc
has changed his address.

In the third edition, dorso of pp. 1 and 2, we have the addition of
portraits of Louise de Vaudemont and Henry III., with a complimentary
stanza of four lines under each.

In his Advertisement au lecteur, Vinciolo says that having promised,
since the first impression of his book, to give a "nouvelle bande
d'ouvrages," and not to disappoint certain ladies who have complained
that he has not made "du reseau assez beau à leur fantaisie," I have
wished for the third time to place before their eyes many new and
different patterns of "reseau de point conté que j'ay cousus et
attachez à la fin de mes premières figures," beneath which I have put
the number and quantity of the stitches. Same dedication and sonnet as
before. Privilege for nine years dated Paris, 25 May, 1587. "De
l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, ruë S. Jacques, au petit Bec, devant le
College de Marmouttier."

1st Part, 40 ff., 36 plates, 27 of point couppé, two stomachers, and
seven "Passemens" de point couppé; the same lettered "Ouvrages" as in
the preceding impression.

2nd Part, 36 ff., 50 plates. The thirty already published in the second
edition, after which follow the twenty additional of "reseau de point
conté," announced in the Preface, consisting of "6 Quarrés, 2 Coins de
{481}Mouchoir, 2 Bordures, 6 animals: Lion, Pelican, Unicorn, Stag,
Peacock, and Griffon"; and the Four Seasons. "Déesse des fleurs,
representant le Printemps," etc.

These last twenty have the number of stitches given. (See Fig. 5.)

On the last page is an escutcheon with the arms of France and Poland.

69.

[Sidenote: 1588. _3rd Edit. No. 3. Parts 1 and 2._]

A later impression still.

Same title, date, portraits, dedication, and sonnet, only the Privilege
is dated "ce douzième jour de Novembre 1587. De l'Imprimerie de David
le Clerc, Rue S. Jaques, aux trois Mores."[1325]

34 ff. 30 plates, 1st part; 50 plates in 2nd.

70.

[Sidenote: 1595. _3rd Edit. No. 4. Parts 1 and 2._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Frederic de Vinciolo,
Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie à la Royne
Douairière de France.

De Rechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier &
le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux & differens portrais de
reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encore
veuë ny inventée.

A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc, ruë Saint Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre.
Avec privilege du Roy. 1595.[1326]

This impression is dedicated to Louise de Vaudemont, now "Reine
Douairière," Henry III. having died in 1589.

71.

[Sidenote: 1606. _3rd Edit. No 5. Parts 1 and 2._]

The same title as that of 1595--differing only in date.[1327]

Privilege for six years, "donné à Mantes, le 3 Juillet 1593." At the
foot, "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc au Petit Corbeil 1606."

The 1st part has 32 ff. and 36 plates; 32 "Ouvrages de poinct couppé,"
and 4 stomachers.

The 2nd part 46 plates, same as those of 1588, only four less.

On the last page the escutcheon of France and Navarre.

72.

[Sidenote: 1589. _4th Edit. Turin. Parts 1 and 2._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo
Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne.
Derechef et pour la quatrieme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier et
le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de
reseau de point conté, avec le nombre de mailles, chose non encore veue
ni inventee. A Thurin. Par Eleazaro Thomysi. 1589.[1328]

Described in Cat. Cicognara with the date 1658. The 1st part 44 ff. and
39 plates; the 2nd with 36 plates.

{482}The editions of 1613 and 1623 are described in their chronological
order. Nos. 64 and 71.

That of 1603 we have not seen; but M. Leber states it to be equally
rich with that of 1623.

The copies of Vinciolo in the Bodleian bear the dates of 1588, 1603,
and 1612.

Baron Pichon has a copy of an impression of 1612.

One at Bordeaux, in the Bib. de la Ville, is dated 1588.

In a book sale at Antwerp, March, 1864, there was sold the following:--

Lot 528. _Livre de Patrons de Lingerie dediè a la Royne, nouvellement
invente par le seign^r Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien._ Paris, Jean le
Clerc, 1598.--_Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour toutes
sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._, 1598.--_Les secondes
oeuvres et subtiles inventions de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._,
1598.--_Nouveaux pourtraicts de Point coupé et Dantelles en petite
moyenne et grande forme._ A. Montbeliard, Jacques Foillet, 1598. 4 tom.
1 vol. in-4. v. anc. fig. sur bois.

It went for 440 francs to a Mr. Ross. We do not know the editions of
1598.

As M. Leber observes, the various editions of Vinciolo, published by Le
Clerc and his widow, from 1587 to 1623, and perhaps later, are only
impressions more or less varied of the two distinct books, the one of
point coupé, the other of lacis.

The work of Vinciolo has been reprinted in several countries. In
England it has been translated and published by Wolfe. (See No. 72.) At
Liege, by Jean de Glen. (See No. 79.) Mr. Douce says that it was
reprinted "at Strasburg, 1596, and at Basle, 1599, with a second part,
which is rare, and sometimes contains a portrait by Gaultier of
Catherine de Bourbon."

In the Bib. Nat. (Grav. B. c. 22), a volume headed _Vinciolo (Federigo)
Peintre Venitien et ses imitateurs_, contains, with "La pratique,"
etc., of Mignerak (See No. 93), a German copy of the "nouveaux
pourtraits," the work printed by Ludwig Künigs, at Basle, 1599 (See No.
85); and a German work headed "Broderies sur filet," 50 plates engraved
upon copper.

73.

[Sidenote: 1591. _London. Wolf._]

New and singular patternes and workes of Linnen. Serving for patternes to
make all sortes of Lace edging and Cut-workes. Newly invented for the
profite and contentment of Ladies, Gentlewomen, and others that are
desirous of this Arte. London: Imprinted by J. Wolfe and Edward White,
1591.[1329]

EPISTLE TO THE READER.

Having framed a body of the best and rarest manner in true perfection
of sundrie sortes of deuises or workes, as well for frame-workes as
other needle-workes, I devised with all diligence and industrious
studie to sattisfy the gentle mindes of vertuous women by bringing to
light things never before as yet seene nor committed to print; All
which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order,
the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth forward;
Whereby with more {483}ease they may be sewed and wrought in Cloth, and
keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey of the worke.
And more, who desyrith to bring the worke into a lesser forme, let them
make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge them, and so may
you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, pouncing, or pouldering
upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to be understood that these
squares serve not onely for cut-workes, but alsoe for all other manner
of seweing or stitching, noteing withall that they are made to keepe
the work or deuise in good order and even proportion--And even if ye
will that squares be greater, make of two, one, four, two, and soe they
will be larger. And in this manner may you proceed in all.

God prosper your desires.

Then follows the dedication:

To the Right Worshipful Gentlewoman, Mistress Susan Saltonstall, wife
to the right Worshipfull Mr. Richard Saltonstall, Alderman of the City
of London (afterwards Lord Mayor, and knighted in 1597).

It being my chance (Right Worshipfull) to lighten upon certaine
paternes of cut-worke and others brought out of Foreign Countries which
have bin greatly accepted of by divers Ladies and Gentlewomen of
sundrie nations and consequently of the common people; This seemed unto
mee a sufficient instance and argument to bestowe likewise some paines
for the publishing thereof, But being in suspense of the dedication two
causes induced mee to imbolden myselfe to present it unto your
acceptation and patronage: First because that rare devises and
inventions are for the most part more agreeable and gratefuller
accepted, than ordinarie and common things, although of great price and
value, Secondlie because these workes belong chiefly to Gentlewomen for
to passe away their time in vertuous exercises Wherefore to fit and
accommodate the dedication aright to the contents and subject of the
book I thought it not amisse to offer it unto your worship in token of
thankfullness for so many benefites which I have received so
bountifullie at your hands Assuring myselfe moreover that as these
patternes will bring sufficient contentment and profite to all
well-willers, that are desirous of this Arte, soe they shall for ever
acknowledge themselves to be beholden chiefly unto you, being the
chiefest occasion of the publishing and setting forthe thereof. And
therefore uppon hope that you will take these inventions in good parte,
which in time I am purposed (If God permit) to increase and augment
with more paternes of worke. In the meantime I pray God give to your
Worship a happie prosperous and long life with a full accomplishment of
all your vertuous desires.

Your worshipps most dutiful
Servant and Kinsman,
ADRIAN POYNTZ.

74.

[Sidenote: 1591. _Bologna. T. Pasini._]

Fiori di ricami nuovamente posti in luce ne i quali sono varii, et
diversi dissegni di lavori; Come Merli, Bauari, Manichetti, & altre sorti
di opere, che al presente sono in uso, utilissimi ad ogni stato di Donne.
Seconda Impressione.

Impresa of Mercury. Below--

In Bologna, per Giovanni Rossi. MDXCI. Ad instanza di Tomaso
Pasini.[1330]

{484}Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 18 plates like Vecellio, one "bavaro."

Dedicated by the author to "La Signora Silveria Rossi Ghisolieri."

Mostly indented patterns on black grounds.

75.

[Sidenote: 1591. _Venice. F. di Franceschi._]

Prima Parte de' fiori, e disegni di varie sorti di Ricami moderni come
merli, bavari, manichetti, & altri nobili lavori che al presente sono in
uso.

A figure of Peace. Below--

In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della
Pace 1591.[1331]

Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 17 plates in the style of Vecellio.

Dedication to "La Signora Gabriella Zeno Michele," signed "Di Venetia
alli 19 di Marzo, 1591, Giovanbattista Ciotti." The last plate a figure
of Fortune, with "Finis in Venetia 1591. Appresso Nicolo Moretti, ad
instantia di Francesco di Franceschi."

76.

[Sidenote: 1591. _Venice. F. di Franceschi._]

La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di ricami & di cucire ogni
sorti de punti à foglami, punti tagliati, punti a fili & rimessi, punti
incrociati, punti à stuoro & ogn' altre arte, che dia opera à disegni. E
di nuovo aggiuntovi varie sorti di merli, e mostre, che al presente sono
in uso & in pratica.

Impresa of Peace differing from the preceding.

In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della
Pace. 1591.[1332]

Obl. 8vo, 86 ff., 72 plates.

Dedicated to "Signora Lucretia Contarini, per matrimonio Priula Nobile
Gentildonna Venetiana," by Giovanni Ostans.

A woodcut of Lucretia working with her maidens, signed Jose Sol. 1557.

Patterns, Small Squares, Gorgets, Youth, Paris, Pyramus and Thisbe,
Arabesques, Grotesques, and an Alphabet.

On the last leaf, dorso, A. B. C. D. "tutte sono quaderni." A figure
again of Peace, and "In Ven. 1590."

77.

[Sidenote: 1592. _Venice. 1st Book. C. Vecellio._]

Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro primo. Nel quale si dimostra
in varij Dissegni, tutti le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in
aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra {485}sorte cosi per Freggi come
per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l'
Europa. Et molte delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à
Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta impressione molti bellissimi
dissegni non mai più veduti.

Then follows the printer's impresa of the stork and serpent.
"Voluptatum et malorum effetuu dissipatio," with a lady at work on each
side, and below--

Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio in Frezzaria nelle
Case de' Preti. 1592.[1333]

Which is repeated in the 2nd and 3rd Books.

Obl. 4to, 32 ff., 28 plates.

Dedication of Vecellio "Alla Clarissima, et Illustrissima Signora,
Viena Vendramina Nani, dignatissima Consorte dell' Illust^{amo} Sig.
Polo Nani, il Procurator di S. Marco," in which he refers to his work
on costume, and says that he dedicates this book to her for the delight
she takes in these works and "in farne essercitar le donne di casa sua,
ricetto delle piu virtuose giovani che hoggidì vivano in questa città."
Signed: Venice, Jan. 20, 1591.

Beautiful designs, among which are three corners for handkerchiefs, the
last lettered: "Diverse inventioni p. cantoni dee fazoletti."

On Plate 3, within a point coupé border, is a statue of Venus standing
upon a tortoise, with other figures, and above, "Conviensi, che della
Donna la bontà, & non la bellezza sia divulgata," and underneath:--

"Veneer io son, de le mirabil mani
Del dotto Fidia d' un bel marmo finta.
In me vedete atti gentili, e humani,
Ch' esser dè Donna à gentilezza accinta.
Io sopra una Testugine dimora,
Perchè stia in Casa, e sia tacita ogn' hora."

[Sidenote: _2nd Book._]

Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro secondo.

Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutte le sorti di Mostre de
puute tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra sorte,
cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano
hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molti delle quali Mostre possono servire
anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta Impressione
molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti. Con Privilegio. In Venetia,
Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592.

28 ff., 26 plates.

The dedication of this and the next book, though differently worded,
are addressed to the same lady as the first. This is dated Jan. 24,
1591.

Among the patterns are two designs for handkerchiefs, and on the last
plate a statue of Vesta, within a point coupé border.

[Sidenote: _3rd Book._]

Corono delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel {486}quale si
dimostra in varii dissegni molte sorti di Mostri di Punti in Aria, Punti
tagliati, Punti a reticello, and ancora di picciole; cosi per Freggi,
come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidi per tutta
l'Europa. Con alcune altre inventione di Bavari all' usanza Venetiana.
Opera nouva e non più in luce. Con privilegio. In Venetia Appresso Cesare
Vecellio, stà in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Petri. 1592.

Dedication dated June 15, 1591. Vecellio says he has added "alcune
inventioni di bavari all' usanza nostra." In the copy (Bib. de
l'Arsenal, 11,955 _bis_) are added instructions to transfer the
patterns upon parchment without injuring the book. The last plate shows
how to reduce the patterns and how to prick them (Fig. 170). This is
sometimes given at the end of the first book instead of the third.

28 ff., 26 plates, two of bavari.

MANNER OF PRICKING THE PATTERN.--(Vecellio.)]

On Pl. 27, woman with a torch and Cupid. At Pl. 28, in a point coupé
border, is a fox holding the bust of a lady, the conceit of which is
explained by the verses to be, that sense is better than beauty:--

"Trovò la Volpe d' un Scultore eletto
Una testa sì ben formata, tale,
Che sol le manca Spirito havresti detto,
Tanto l' industria, e l' arteficio vale,
La prende in man, poi dice; O che perfetto
Capo, e gentil; ma voto è d' inteletto."

78.

[Sidenote: 1594. _Venice. C. Vecellio._]

Gioiello della corona per le nobili e virtuose donne. Libro quarto. Nel
quale si dimostra altri nuovi bellissimi Dissegni di tutte le sorte di
Mostre di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati & Punti à Reticello; così per
Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per
tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali mostre possono servire anchora per
opere à Mazzette Nuovament posto in luce con molte bellissime inventioni
non mai più usate, nè vedute. Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare
Vecellio, in Frezzaria nella Casa de i Preti. 1594.

Same impresa of the stork and serpent.

Dedicated to the Sign. Isabella Palavicina Lupi Marchesa di Soragana,
dated "Venetia alli 20 Novembrio 1592." Cesare Vecellio. 30
plates.[1334]

{487}Vecellio, author of the _Corona_ and _Gioiello_, also published a
work on costume styled _Degli Habiti Antichi et Moderni_. _In Venezia_,
1590. _Presso Damian Zenero._ In the frontispiece is a salamander; on
the last leaf a figure of Vesta. It has been reproduced by F. Didot,
Paris.

He was not, as is often incorrectly stated, a relation, or even of the
same family as Titian.

These are the earliest impressions we have had an opportunity of
examining of Vecellio's works, which appear to have been widely
circulated. The Bib. de l'Arsenal possesses two copies of the _Corona_
(No. 11,955), from which we have described. In the other (No. 11,155
_bis_), Book 1 "ultima," Book 2 "quarta," are both dated 1593; and Book
3 "nuovamente ristampata la quarta volta," 1592. The plates all the
same.

The Library of Rouen (No. 1,315) has a volume containing the _Corona_
and _Gioiello_. Book 1 "quarta Imp.," Book 2 "ultima," both dated 1594;
and Book 3 "quinta," 1593. The _Gioiello_, 1593.

In the Bodleian is a copy of the three books, date 1592; and another,
date 1561, was in the possession of the late Mrs. Dennistoun of
Dennistoun.

At Venice, in the Doge's Library, is a volume containing the three
books of the _Corona_ and the _Gioiello_, dated 1593.

Mrs. Stisted, Bagni di Lucca, also possesses the three books of the
Corona, dated 1597, and the Gioiello, 1592.

At Bologna the Library has one volume, containing the first and second
books only, evidently the original impressions. The titles are the same
as the above, only to each is affixed, "Opera nuova e non più data in
luce," and "Stampata per gli Hered' della Regina. 1591. An instantia di
Cesare Vecellio, Stà in Frezzaria."

The same Library also possesses a volume, with the three books of the
_Corona_, the first and third "ottava," the second "quarta," and the
_Gioiello_, "nuovamente posto in luce." All "In Venetia appresso gli
heredi di Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria. 1608."

At Vienna, in the new Museum for Art and Industry, is a copy of the
five books, dated 1601.[1335]

Cav. Merli cites from a copy of the four books, dated 1600.

The various impressions, therefore, date from 1591 to 1608.

We see these different parts, like those of Vinciolo and all these old
collections, have been printed and reprinted independently of each
other, since the third part was at its fifth impression in 1593, while
the first, which ought to have preceded it, was only at its fourth in
1594.[1336]

79.

[Sidenote: 1593. _St. Gall. G. Strauben._]

New Model Buch darinnen allerley Gattung schöner Modeln der newen
aussgeschitnen Arbeit auff Krägen, Hempter, Jakelet und dergleichen zu
newen, so zuvor in Teutschlandt nicht gesehen. Allen thugentsamen Frawen
und Jungkfrawen, Nätterinnen, auch allen audern so lust zu solcher
kunstlichen Arbeit haben, sehr dienstlich.

{488}Getruckt in uerlegung George Strauben, von S. Gallem, Anno
1593.[1337]

_Translation._

New Patternbook, in which are all sorts of beautiful patterns of the new
cutwork for collars, shirts, jackets, and such like, such as never before
were seen in Germany. Most useful to all virtuous dames and such artistic
works, very respectfully dedicated.

Printed for the publisher, G. Strauben.

A reprint of the third book of Vecellio's Corona.

80.

[Sidenote: _N.D. Lindau am Bodensee._]

Neu Model-Buch, darinnen allerley gattung schöner Modeln der neuen, etc.

Probably a reprint of No. 79.

27 plates.

81.

[Sidenote: 1597. _Liége. J. de Glen._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraits, pour toutes sortes de lingeries de
Jean de Glen, dediés à Madame Loyse de Perez; à Liége, chez Jean de Glen,
l'an 1597.[1338]

Obl. 4to, 39 plates, mostly borrowed from Vinciolo, as well as the
title.

82.

[Sidenote: 1596. _Florence. M. Florini._]

Fior di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce. Fiorenze, 1596, ad instanza di
Mattheo Florini.

4to obl., 24 plates and 2 leaves of text.[1339]

83.

[Sidenote: 1603. _Siena. M. Florini._]

Fiori di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce nei quali sono varie et diversi
disegni di lavori, como merli, bavari, manichetti e altre sorte di opera.
Siena, appresso Matteo Florini, 1603.

4to obl., 24 pages.[1340]

84.

[Sidenote: 1603. _Siena. M. Florini._]

Giojello, &c. Nel quale si di mostra altri novi bellissimi disegni di
tutte le sorte, di mostre &c. ... di punti &c., cosi {489}per fregi come
per merli et rosette che con l' aco si usanno hoggi di per tutte l'
Europa. Opere a Mazzetto nuovamente posta in luce con motte bellissime
inventioni non mai più usate ne vedute. In Siena, Matteo Florini MDCIII.

4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)

85.

[Sidenote: 1597. _Nuremberg. B. Laimoxen._]

Schön neues Modelbuch von allerley lüstigen Mödeln naczunehen zu würken
un zu sticke; gemacht im Jar Ch. 1597, zu Nürmberg, bey Balthaser
Laimoxen zu erfragen.[1341]

_Translation._

Fine new Patternbook of all sorts of pleasant patterns for sewing,
working, and embroidering: made in the year of Christ 1597, at Nurmberg:
to be had of Balthasar Laimoxen.

Obl. fol., 27 ff.

5 sheets, title-page, and poem, signed J. S. (Johann Sibmacher.)

Mr. Gruner has communicated to us a work with the same title, dated
1591.[1342]

86.

[Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._]

Nouveaux pourctraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et
grande forme nouvellement inventez & mis en lumiere Imprimé a Montbéliard
par Jacques Foillet (|)|)xciix (1598).[1343]

Small 4to, 82 ff., 78 plates.

Frontispiece with borders composed of squares of point coupé.

"Avertissement aux dames," of three pages, stating these works are all
composed of "point devant l'esguille, de point en toille, en bouclages,
& de cordonnages." The writer gives patterns of roses of all sizes,
"very little, middling, large, and very large," with from one to nine
_pertuis_, or openings, holes. Also Carreaux in different forms, and
lastly _dantelles_. "Je n'ay voulu omettre de vous dire que pour faire
des dantelles, il vous fault jetter un fil de la grandeur que desiré
faire vos dantelles, & les cordonner, puis jetter les fils au dedans,
qui fera tendre le cordon & lui donnera la forme carrée, ronde, ou
telle forme que desires, ce qu'estant faict vous paracheverès
facilement. Enoultre vous verrez qu'estant bien petites deviennent peu
a peu bien grandes jusques a la fin. Elles vous enricheront &
embelliront vos ouvrages en les applicant aux bords d'iceux."
Directions, we confess, perfectly enigmatical to us. The author
finishes by exhorting the ladies to imitate Minerva and Arachne, "qui
ont acquis un grand renom, pour avoir (c[=o]me à l'envie l'une de
l'autre) travaillé de l'esguille."

The avertissement is followed by an "Exhortation aux jeunes filles." in
verse, of 21 lines, beginning--

"Si nuisible est aux humains la paresse," etc.

40 patterns of "roses," of point coupé.

{490}And 18 of "Carreaux," variously disposed.

Then follow 20 patterns of lace, of "bien petites, petites, moyennes, &
grosses," all "au point devant l'Esguille." (See Figs. 8 to 12.)

At the end: "La fin courone l'oeuvre." This is the earliest
pattern-book in which the word "dantelle" occurs.

87.

[Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._]

New Modelbuch darinnen allerley ausgeschnittene Arbeit, in kleiner,
mittelmässiger und grosser form erst neulich erfunden. Allen tugenden
Frawen vnnd Jungfrawen sehr nutzlich. Gedruckt zu Mumpelgarten durch
Jacob Foillet, 1598.[1344]

88.

[Sidenote: 1599. _Basle._]

Fewrnew Modelbuch von allerhandt Künstlicher Arbeidt, nämlich Gestricht,
Aussgezogen, Aussgeschnitten, Gewiefflet, Gesticht, Gewirckt, und Geneyt:
von Wollen, Garn, Faden, oder Seyden: auff der Laden, und Sonderlich auff
den Ramen, Jetzt Erstmals in Teutschlandt an Tag gebracht: Zu Ehren und
Gl[=u]cklicher Zeitvetreibung allen dugentsamen Frawen, und Jungfrawen
Nächerinen, auch allen andern, so lust zu solcher Kunstlicher Arbeit
haben sehr dienstlich. Getruckt zu Basel.

In verlegung Ludwig K[=u]nigs MDXCIX.[1345]

Small obl., 33 ff., 32 plates.

Frontispiece border of point coupé. Title in Gothic red and black.
Patterns, mostly borders, number of stitches given, "Mit xxxxvii.,
Bengen," etc. "Ende dieses modelbuchs."

89.

[Sidenote: 1601. _Paris._]

Béle Prérie contenant divers caracters, et differentes sortes de lettres
alphabetiques, à sçavoir lettres Romaines, de formes, lettres pour
appliquer sur le reseuil ou lassis, et autres pour marquer sur toile et
linges, par Pier. le Bé. Paris, 1601.[1346]

In 4to obl.

90.

[Sidenote: 1601. _Nuremberg. Sibmacher._]

Modelbuch in Kupfer gemacht, Nürmberg, bei Michel Kuisner, 1601, by J.
Sibmacher.[1347]

91.

[Sidenote: 1604. _Nuremberg. J. Sibmacher._]

Newes Modelbûch fûr Kûpfer gemacht, darinnen allerhand art newen Model
von dem Mittel und Dick ausgeschniden duer {491}Arbeit auch andern
kunstlichen Nahework zu gebrauchen mit Fluss fur druck verfertigt. Mit
Röm. Kais. Maj trentich Nürmberg 1604.[1348]

_Translation._

New book of patterns (on copper) in which are copied out all kinds of new
patterns for thick and thin materials, to be used also in the making of
other artistic needlework.

Obl. 4to, 58 plates carefully engraved upon copper.

Title-page surrounded by a richly ornamented border, with two figures,
one sewing, the other at embroidery; also a second ornamented
frontispiece, dedication to Maria Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, dated
1601. Nuremberg, J. Sibmacher, citizen and engraver.

Then follow five pages of dialogue, given page 6, note 24, and 227.

A printed title to the next plate. "The following pattern may be worked
in several different ways, with a woven seam, a flat, round, or crossed
Jew stitch."[1349] It is probably meant for cut-work made on thin
materials.

Then follow 58 leaves of patterns, the greater number of which have the
number of rows written over each pattern. Pl. 38, with two patterns, is
inscribed, "The following patterns are for thick cut-work." In the
upper pattern, on the first leaf, are the arms of the Palatine; on the
second, those of Juliers and Mark.

92.

[Sidenote: 1600. _Venice. I. C. Parasole._]

Pretiosa gemma delle virtuose donne dove si vedono bellissimi lavori di
ponti in aria, reticella, di maglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella
Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni
altri bellissimi lavori nuovamente inventati. Stampata in Venetia ad
instantia di Luchino Gargano MDC.[1350] See also No. 99.

93.

[Sidenote: _N. D._]

Allerhand Model zum Stricken un Nähen.[1351]

Obl. 4to, 64 plates. No date.

94.

[Sidenote: 1604. _Padua. P. P. Fozzi._]

A book of models for point coupé and embroidery, published at Padua,
October 1st, 1604, by Pietro Paolo Fozzi. "Romano."[1352]

95.

[Sidenote: 1605. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._]

Schön newes Modelbuch von 500 schönen aussor wählten, Kunstlichen, so wol
Italiähnischen, Frantzösischen, {492}Niederländischen, Engelländischen,
als Teutschen Mödeln, Allen, Näher.... hstichern, &c., zu nutz. (_Some of
the words are illegible._)

Livre des Modelles fort utile à tous ceux qui besoignent à l'esguille.

At the foot of last page recto is, "Franckfurt am Mayn, bey Sigismund
Latomus, 1605."[1353]

Small obl. 100 plates (Fig. 171), and coloured title-page with figures.

FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN, 1605.]

In the first plate is an escutcheon with this monogram (Fig. 172)
surrounded with embroidery.

MONOGRAM.]

In the Nuremberg copy it is at p. 83.

96.

[Sidenote: 1607. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._]

Schön newes Modelbuch, Von hundert vnd achtzig schönen kunstreichen vnd
gerechten Mödeln, Teutsche vnd Welsche, welche auff mancherley Art können
geneet werden, als mit Zopffnath, Creutz vnnd Judenstich, auch auff Laden
zu wircken: Dessgleichen von ausserlesenen Zinnigen oder Spitzen. Allen
Seydenstickern, Mödelwirckerin, Näderin, vnd solcher Arbeitgeflissenen
Weibsbildern sehr dienstlich, vnd zu andern Mustern {493}anleytlich vnd
verstendig. Franckfurt am Mayn, In Verlegung Sigismundi Latomi.
M.D.C.VII.[1354]

Small 4to obl. 180 patterns.

Sheets A-O (the last has only 3 leaves). On the title-page are two
ladies, one working at a pillow, the other at a frame; in the
back-ground, other women employed at various works. Another copy dated
1629. Mr. Arnold and Mr. F. S. Ellis.

97.

[Sidenote: 1605. _Paris. M. Mignerak._]

La pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias
Mignerak Anglois, ouvrier fort expert en toute sorte de lingerie ou sont
tracez Divers compartimens de carrez tous differans en grandeur et
invention avec les plus exquises bordures, desseins d'ordonnances qui se
soient veux jusques à ce jourd'hui tant poetiques historiques, qu'au tres
ouvrages de point de rebord. Ensemble Les nouvelles invencions Françoises
pour ce qui est de devotion et contemplation. A la Tres-Chrestiene Roine
de France et de Navarre. Avec privilege 1605 du Roy.[1355]

A Paris, par Jean Leclerc, rue St.-Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre
roialle.

EXTRACT FROM "DISCOURS DU LACIS."

"Ce chef d'oeuvre divin n'est pas à l'adventure
Mais par art composé, par nombre, et par mesure;
Il commence par un, et va multipliant
Le nombre de ses trouz qu'un noeud va reliant,
Sans perdre aucunement des nombres d'entresuitte,
Croissant, et decroissant d'une mesme conduitte:
Et ainsi qu'il commence il acheve par un,
Du monde le principe et le terme commun.
Si l'on veut sans faillir cet ouvrage parfaire,
Il faut multiplier, adjouster, et soustraire:
Il faut bien promptement assembler, et partir,
Qui veut un beau Lacis inegal compartir.
Mais se peut il trouver, souz la voute azurée,
Chose plus justement en tous sens mesurée?
Ouvrage ou il y ait tant de proportions,
De figures, de traicts et de dimensions?
D'un point premièrement une ligne l'on tire,
Puis le filet courbé un cercle va descrire,
Et du cercle noué se trouve le quarré
Pour lequel retrouver tant d'esprits ont erré.
De six mailles se faict une figure egale,
De trois costez esgaux, pour forme pyramidale:
Et l'ouvrage croissant, s'en forme promptement
{494}
Une autre dont les deux sont egaux seulement.
Si l'on tire un des coings, se forme une figure.
D'un triangle en tout sens, d'inegale mesure.
Le moule plus tiré faict les angles pointuz,
Et l'ouvrage estendu faict les angles obtuz.
De mailles à la fin un beau quarré se faict,
Composé de quarrez, tout egal, et parfaict,
Quarré qui toutesfois se forme variable,
Or en lozange, et or en figure de table.
La bande de Lacis recouvert, à nos yeux,
Est comme un beau pourtraict de l'escharpe des cieux,
Dont chaque endroit ouvré nous represente un signe,
Le milieu, les degrez de l'Eclyptique ligne;
Le quarré, des vertus le symbole, et signal
De science du livre et bonnet doctoral,
Nous va representant l'Eglise et la Justice.
La façon de lacer figure l'exercice
D'enfiler une bague on bien l'art d'escrimer.
. . . . .
Le lacis recouvert sert de filet aux dames
Pour les hommes suprendre et enlacer leurs ames,
Elles en font collets, coiffures, et mouchoirs,
Des tentures de lits, tauayoles, pignoirs,
Et maint autre ornement dont elles les enlacent,
C'est pourquoi en laçant les femmes ne se lassent."

In 4to, 76 ff., 72 plates.

Frontispiece: Two ladies, with frames in their hands, labelled "Diana"
and "Pallas." On the top, an escutcheon per pale France and Medicis,
supported by Cupids. Beneath, Cupids with distaff and winding reels.
Between the sides of a pair of scissors is a cushion on which is
extended a piece of lacis, a "marguerite" in progress. (See Fig. 6.)
Above, "Petrus Firens fecit, I. le Clerc excud." Below, "A Paris par
Jean le Clerc Rue St. Jean de Latran à la Salamandre royalle."

Dedication of Jean le Clerc "A la royne," then Marie de Medicis,
stating: "J'avois recouvré d'un personnage Anglois tres-expert en toute
sorte de Lingerie;" but who this Milour Mignerak may be, history tells
not.

Then follows the "Discours du Lacis," a poem, of which we give an
extract.

The privilege is signed Aug. 2, 1605.

The patterns consist of the Queen's arms and cypher, 4 Scripture
subjects: Adam and Eve, the annunciation, Ecce Homo, and Magdalen; 4
Elements, 4 Seasons; Roman Charity, Lucretia, Venus, and "Pluye d'or;"
6 Arbes à fruit, 6 Pots à fleurs, 30 Carrés grands, moyens et petits; 6
Bordures, and, what is quite a novelty, 6 "Passements faits au fuseau."
(See Fig. 13): the first mention of pillow lace in any of the French
pattern-books.

98.

[Sidenote: 1613. _Paris. F. Vinciolo._]

Les secondes oeuvres, et subtiles inventions de Lingerie du Seigneur
Federic de Vinçiolo Venitien; nouvellement augmenté de plusieurs carrez
de point de rebort. Dediée à Madame, soeur unique du roy. Ou sont
representees plusieurs figures de Reseau, nombres de Carrez et Bordures
tous differents, le tout de poinct conté, avec autres sortes de Carrez de
nouvelles inventions non encore vues.

{495}A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc, rue sainct Jean de Latran, à la
Salemandre, 1613. Avec privilege du Roy.[1356]

A scarce and valuable volume, the fullest edition of the second part of
Vinciolo's work.

4to, 68 ff., 61 plates.

It contains a--

SONNET AUX DAMES & DAMOYSELLES.

"Esprits rarement beaux qui fuyez la paresse,
Je vous fais un present qui la pourra chasser,
Quand vous desirez de gayement passer
Vostre temps, et monstrer de vostre main l'adresse.

Le present est utile et plein de gentillesse,
Il monstre les moyens de bien entrelasser.
Et faire au point couppé tout ce qu'on peut penser.
Cet exercise plaist à Pallas la Deesse.

Par ses enseignemens, avec l'esguille on fait
Des fleurons, des oyseaux, en ouvrage parfait,
Des chiffres et des noeuds, tels que l'amour desire.

Aymez cet exercise, et vous y occupez,
Et puis vous cognoistrez que sur les points couppez
En diverses façons quelque portrait se tire."

The author's address to the reader, and a

Dedication to "Madame, soeur unique du roy" (Catherine de Bourbon,
sister of Henry IV., married, 1599, to the Duc de Bar), signed by Le
Clerc.

On the second plates are her arms, a lozenge, France and Navarre with
crown and cordelière, and the same lozenge also surmounts the decorated
frontispiece, supported on either side by a genius (?) working at a
frame and point coupé drapery.

7 Scripture subjects: The Salutation, St. Sacrement, Passion,
Crucifixion, Adoration of the Kings, etc.; the number of the stitches
given to each.

2 Stomachers, and various patterns of "carrez " and borders. 2 of
"Point de rebort."

At the end is the "Discours du Lacis," already printed by Mignerak.

99.

[Sidenote: 1616. _Rome. E. C. Parasole._]

Teatro delle nobili et virtuose donne, dove si rappresentano varij
disegni di lavori novamente inventati et disegnati da Elisabetta Catanea
Parasole Romana.

Dedicata alla Serenissima Principessa Donna Elisabetta Borbona d'
Austria, Principessa di Spagna, da E. C. Parasole. Data di Roma a di 5
Marzo 1616.[1357] Other editions, 1620, 1625, and 1636. The last is
dedicated to the Grand Duchess of {496}Tuscany, and has the Medici and
Della Rovere arms in the title-page.

Obl. 4to, 47 ff., 46 plates (44 in Prince Massimo's copy) beautifully
executed, the titles printed to each plate, as "Lavori di punti in
aria, Merletti di ponti reticella, Merletti a piombini," etc. (See Fig.
15.)

100.

[Sidenote: 1600. _Venice. I. C. Parasole._]

Pretiosa gemme delle virtuose donne dore si vedono bellisimi lavori di
ponto in aria, reticella, dimaglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella
Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni
altri bellisimi lavori nuovamente inventate. Stampata in Venetea ad
instantia de Luchino Gargano MDC.[1358]

101.

[Sidenote: 1625. _Rome. I. C. Parasole._]

Gemma pretiosa delle virtuose donne, dore si vedono bellisimi lavori de
Ponti in Aria, Reticella, di Maglia, e Piombini disegnatida Isabella
Catanea Parasole.

In Rome, appreso Guliegno Facciotti, 1625.

102.

[Sidenote: 1618. _Frankfort on the Mayn. D. Meyer._]

Zierat Buch, von allerhandt Kutschnur, Schleyer deckel, Krägen,
Leibgürtel, Passmenten, Händschug, Wehrgeheng und Schubenehen,
Messerscheyden, Secklen, Früchten, Blumen und ands. mehr.

Allen Perlenbefftern, Nederin, Lehrinngen und andern welche lust zu
dieser Kunst tragen, sehr nützlich.

Inn diese Format zusammen ordiniert und gsetzt durch Daniel Meyer
Mahlern. 1ster Theil.

Franckfuhrt am Mayn, bey Eberhardt Kusern zu finden.

11 ff., 9 plates.

_Translation._

Decoration book of all sorts of Cords, Veil covers, Collars, Belts,
Laces, Gloves, Shoulder knots, shoe-seams (?), Knife sheaths, Bags,
Fruit, Flowers, and other things besides. Very useful to all
Beadworkers, Seamstresses, Apprentices, and others, who take a pleasure
or are fond of this art. Arranged and put into this form by D. M. M.
1st part.

103.

[Sidenote: 1619. _Leipsic. A. Bretschneider._]

New Modelb[)u]ch Darinnen allerley kunstliche Virsirung und Müster
artiger Z[)u]ege und schöner Bl[)u]mmen zu zierlichen Ueberschlagen,
Haupt Schurtz Schn[)u]ptüchern Hauben Handschuhen, Uhren (?) gehenzen,
Kampfütern [)u]nd dergleichen auf Muhler naht und Seidenst[)u]cker arbeit
gantz Kunstlich gemahlt {497}und vorgerissen, dergleichen sie bevorn noch
nie in Druck ausgegangen. 16 Leipzicht 19.

Inn Verleg[)u]ng Henning Grosseren, de J[)u]ngeren Andreas Bretschneider
Mahller.[1359]

_Translation._

New pattern-book, in which all sorts of artistic ornamentations and
patterns of pretty stuffs and beautiful flowers for covers for Head,
Aprons, and Pocket-handkerchiefs, Caps, Gloves, Clock cases, Comb
Cases, and such like, artistically sketched from painter and silk
embroiderer's work, and which have never before gone out of print.

Small folio, 53 plates, and half a sheet of text, containing the
dedication of the work to Madame Catherine von Dorstats, née Löser.
There appear to be 3 plates wanting.

104.

[Sidenote: 1624. _London._]

A Schole House for the Needle. 1624.[1360]

Obl. 4to. Was sold at the White Knight's sale for £3 15s.

105.

[Sidenote: 1620. _Venice. Lugretia Romana._]

Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel quale si dimostra
in varii dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati e punti in
aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Retcello, e d' ogn' altra sorte, Cosi per
Fregi, per merli e Rosette, che con Aco si viano hoggidi per lutta
l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre porsono Serviri ancora per opera à
Mozzete. Con le dichiarationi a le Mostre a' Lavori fatti da Lugretia
Romana. In Venetia, appresso Allessandro de Vecchi, 1620.[1361]

27 ff., obl. 8vo.

106.

[Sidenote: 1625. _Venice. Lugretia Romana._]

Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne, Libro primo, nel quale si dimostra
in varij Dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in
Aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Reticello, e d' ogni altre sorte, cosi per
Freggi, per Merli, e Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano per tutta l'Europa.
E molte delle quali Mostre possono servire ancora per opere a Mazzete.
Con le dichiarazioni a le Mostre, a Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana.

In Venetia appresso Alessandro de Vecchi MDCXXV. Si vendono in Venetia al
Ponte de' Baretteri alla libreria delle tre Rose.[1362]

Lady Wilton, in her _Art of Needlework_, quotes a copy dated 1620.

Obl. 4to, ff. 27. Portrait of Maria d'Aragon.

{498}107.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. Lucretia Romana._]

Ornamento nobile, per ogni gentil matrona, dove si contiene bavari, frisi
d' infinita bellezza, lavori, per Linzuoli, Traverse, e Facuoli, Piena di
Figure, Ninfe, Satiri, Grotesche, Fontane, Musiche, Caccie di Cervi,
Uccelli, ed altri Animali. Con ponti in aria, fiamenghi, et tagliati, con
Adornamenti bellissimi, da imperare, per ogni Virtuosa Donna, che si
diletta di perfettamente cucire. Opera, per Pittori, Scultori, e
disegnatori giovevole alle lor professioni, Fatta da Lucretia Romana, il
quinto volume di Suoi lavori. Dedicato alle Virtuose donne, in
Venetia.[1363]

Fol., 20 plates.

Frontispiece, in point coupé frame. A woman in classic attire is
represented under a Doric porch, standing on a tortoise, symbol of a
home-loving woman. (See No. 77.) She holds a ball of thread in her
hand. Behind, on the left, are two women at work; on the right, a
sculptor chiselling a statue of Minerva.

The plates, which are rich and beautiful, are each accompanied by a
short explanation, as "Degna de esser portata de ogni imperatrice;"
"Hopera bellissima che per il piu il Signora Duchesa et altre Signore
si servano per li suoi Lavori;" "Questa bellissima Rosette usano auco
le gentildonne Venetiane da far traverse," etc. (Fig. 173.)

The bavari are executed in three different stitches: punto d' aieri, p.
flamingo, and p. tagliato. This author and Vecellio give Flemish
patterns (punti Fiamenghi). They consist mostly of rosettes and stars
(gotico).

108.

[Sidenote: 1623. _Paris._]

Les excellents eschantillons, patrons et modelles du Seigneur Federic de
Vinciolo Venitien, pour apprendre à faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de
Lingerie, de Poinct couppé, grands et petits passements à jour, et
dentelles exquises. Dediez à la Royne. A Paris. Chez la Veufve Jean le
Clerc, ruë Sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre Royalle. Avec Privilege
du Roy, 1623.[1364]

In 4to, 56 ff.

The old frontispiece and same "Avertissement."

Dedication to the Queen, Anne of Austria.

The Goddess Pallas invented "les ouvrages de lingerie, le poinct
couppé, les grands and petits passements à jour, toutes sortes de
dentelles, tant pour se desennuyer que se parer, par l'artifice de ses
ingenieuses mains. Araciné s'y adonna, and bien qu'inferieure se
voulant comparer à elle & en venir à l'experience, mais sa presomption
fut chastiée." Many illustrious ladies have delighted in this "honneste
exercise." Fastrade and Constance, wives of the Emperor Charlemagne and
of King Robert, "s'employèrent de cette manufacture, & de leurs
ouvrages ornèrent les églises & les autels." This royal "mestier" has
reached perfection through the works of Vinciolo. I reprint and again
increase his work, which I dedicate to your Majesty, to whom I presume
they will be agreeable; the subject of which it treats is "une
invention de déesse & une occupation de Royne--vous estant autant Royne
des vertus que vous l'estes de deux royaumes." Signed, "la Veufve de
feu Iean le Clerc."

Same sonnet.

Privilege for six years, dated Paris, last day of March, 1623.

55 ff., 58 plates, 24 ouvrages de point couppé and 8 of "Passements au
fuzeau" (see Figs. 14 and 15), and alphabet.

BAVARO DI PONTO D' AERE.--Con belissime figure ed altri flori.

"BAVARI."--From _Ornamento mobile_ of Lucretia Romana.

_To face page 498._]

{499}109.

A Schole Howse for the Needle. Teaching by sundry sortes of patterns and
examples of different kindes, how to compose many faire workes; which
being set in order and forme according to the skill and understanding of
the workwoman will, no doubt, yield profit unto such as live by the
needle and give good content to adorne the worthy. London printed in Shoe
Lane at the "Faulcon" by Richard Shorleyker, 1632.

TO THE READER.

Gentle Reader, I would have you know that the Diversities of Examples
which you shall find in this "Schoole-howse for the Needle" are only
but patternes which serve but to helpe and inlarge your invention. But
for the disposing of them into forme and order of Workes that I leave
to your own skill and understanding. Whose ingenious and well practised
wits will soe readily (I doubt not) compose them into such beautiful
formes as will be able to give content, both to the workers and the
wearers of them. And againe for your behoafe I have in the end of this
booke made two scales or checker patternes which by enlarging or
contracting into greater or lesser squares you may enlarge or make
lesser any of the saide patternes and examples in the booke or any
other whatever.

VALE!

And because I would not have any one mistaken in any of these patternes
contayned in this Booke, for some peradventure will look to find workes
set out in order as they should be wrought with the needle or florished
upon the Tent, &c. But as I have said before in the beginning of this
Booke, that, that is here published are only but diversitie of
patternes, out of which the workwoman is to take her choice of one or
more at her pleasure and so have them drawne out into forme and order
of worke. Of which skill if it may be I would have serving-men (such as
have time enough) to practice and be skilful in which will be quickly
learned if they would, with a little patience applie their mindes to
practise it. A quarter of the time that they spend in playing at cards,
tables, quaffing and drinking would make them excellent in this
knowledge especially such as are ingenious and indued with good wits,
as for the most part all of them have; Againe it is a thing that no
doubt would yield them both praise and profit, beside the pleasure and
delight it would be unto them, and a good inducement to drawe on others
of their own ranke and qualitie to the like practice and imitation.

110.

[Sidenote: 1632. _London._]

Here followeth certaine patternes of Cut-workes; and but once Printed
before. Also sundry sorts of Spots, as Flowers, Birds, and Fishes, &c.,
and will fitly serve to be wrought, some {500}with Gould, some with
Silke, and some with Gewell (_sic_) or otherwise at your pleasure.

London; Pinted (_sic_) in Shoe-lane, at the signe of the Faulcon, by
Richard Shorleyker. 1632.[1365]

Obl. 4to.

The copy in the Bodleian is probably due to the above. It has no date
and varies in title: "Newly invented and never published before," with
"crewell in coullers," etc.; and "Never but once published before."
Printed by Rich. Shorleyker.

33 patterns and title.

111.

[Sidenote: 1640.]

The needles excellency, a new booke wherein are divers admirable workes
wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the
pleasure and profit of the industrious. Printed for James Boler, &c.,
1640.[1366]

"Beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower
garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to
the patterns are sundry poems in a commendation of the needle, and
describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their
skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of
Pembroke. These poems were composed by John Taylor, the Water Poet. It
appears the work had gone through twelve impressions.... From the
costume of a lady and gentleman in one of the patterns, it appears to
have been originally published in the reign of James I."--(Douce.) From
this description of the frontispiece, it seems to be copied from
Sibmacher.

"The Needle's Excellency, or a new Book of Patterns, with a poem by
John Taylor, in Praise of the Needle." London, 1640. Obl. 4to, engraved
title, and 28 plates of patterns. Sold, 1771, £6 17s. 6d. (Lowndes,
_Bibliographer's Manual_. New edit., by H. Bohn). Another copy of the
same date, marked 12th edition, is in the Library of King's College,
Cambridge. It consists of title, four leaves with the poem, subscribed
John Taylor, and 31 leaves of copper cuts of patterns.

112.

[Sidenote: 1642 _Pistoja. P. A. Fortunato._]

Le Pompe di Minerva, per le nobili e virtuose donne che con industriosa
mano di trattenersi dilettano di far Rezze, maglia quadra, punti in aria,
punti in tagliati, punti a reticello, cosi per fregio come per merletti e
rosette di varie sorti, si come oggidi con l'aco di lavorar usati per
tutto l'Europa, arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da più
celebri autori di tal professione. In Pistoja, per Piero A. Fortunato.

In 8vo obl., dedicated to Caterina Giraldini, in Cellesi. August 20
1642.[1367]

{501}113.

[Sidenote: 1666. _Nuremberg._]

Dass Neue Modelbuch von schönen Nädereyen, Ladengewerk und Soterleins
arbeit. Ander theil. Nürnberg, bey Paulus Fürsten Kunsthändler.

Obl. 4to, 3 sheets of text, 50 plates.

Dedicated to the Princess Rosina Helena. Nürnberg, March 20,
1666.[1368]

114.

In the Bib. Imp. (Gravures, L. h. 4. c.) is a vol. lettered "Guipure,
gravures burin," containing a collection of patterns engraved on
copper, 43 plates, four of which are double, pasted in the book,
without title or date. Pomegranates, narcissus, lilies, carnations,
most of them labelled "Kreutzstick, Frantzösischenstick, and
Fadengewürck" (thread work), the number of stitches given, with Clocks
(Zwickel) of stockings and other patterns.

115.

[Sidenote: 1676. _Nuremberg. C. Gerharts._]

Model Buch, dritter Theil von unterschiedlicher Vögeln, Blumen und
Früchten &cte. Von und in Verlegung Rosina Helena Fürtin. Nürnberg,
Christoff Gerharts, 1676.

4to obl., engraved title and printed list; 42 wood plates, 4 large.

116.

[Sidenote: 1722. _Paris._]

Methode pour faire une infinité de desseins differens, avec des carreaux
mi-partis de deux couleurs par une ligne diagnonale ou observations du
père Dominique Donat, religieux carme de la province de Touleuse sur une
mémoire inserée dans l'histoire de l'Académie royale des sciences à
Paris, l'année 1704, presenté par le Rev. Père Sebastien Truchet. Paris,
1722.[1369]

72 geometric squares, with directions how to make them useful to
architects, painters, embroiderers, "tous ceux qui se servent de
l'aiguille," and others.

117.

[Sidenote: 1784. _Nuremberg and Leipzig. Christoph Weigel._]

Neues Neta- und Strickbuch fur das schöne Geschlecht, worinnen allerhand
Zierrathen, wie auch viele neue Zwickel, nebst Buchstaben und Zahlen,
sowohl zum Nähen als Stricken in zierlichen Nissen und Mustern befindlich
sind. Mit vielen Kupfertafeln. Nürnberg und Leipzig, der Christoph Weigel
und Schneider. 1784.[1370]

{502}118.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. F. M. Helmin._]

Continuation der kunst- und fleisz-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu
ersonnenen besondern Nehe-Buchs dritter Theil, worinnen fleiszige
Liebhaberinnen deeser nöthig und nützlichen Wissenchaft, ihr kunstliches
Nadel-Exercitium, beij unterschiedlich vorfallenden Belegenheiten zu
haben allerhand noch nie vorgeko[=m]ene Muster zu Deso gebrauch, vorlegt
und en die Hand gegeben werden von Fr. Margaretha Helmin, zu finden in
Nürnberg bei Joh. Christoph Weigel. Nürnburg. No date.[1371]

Oblong fol.

119.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. J. Chr. Weigel._]

Zierlich webende Minerva, oder neu erfundenes Kunst- und Bild-Buch der
Weber- und Zeichner-Arbeit, worinnen treue Anweisung geschieht, wie man
kunstlich wirken und schöne Arbeit verfertigen soll, von der
vierschäfftigen an, bis auf zwey und dreissig-schafftige. Nurnberg
(Johann Christoph Weigel). No date.[1372]

49 plates in sheets.

{503}GLOSSARY OF TERMS.

_Bars._ See _Brides_.

_Bead Edge._ A simple heading for pillow lace.

_Bobbins._ Small elongated wooden or bone reels on which the thread is wound for the purpose of lace-making. They are frequently ornamented with patterns pricked or stained, and polished. They are weighted with "gingles" or "jingles" (_i.e._, beads, coins, seals, seeds, or various articles).

_Brides._ A small strip or connection (1) of threads overcast with buttonhole stitches, or (2) of twisted or plaited threads. It is used instead of a ground-work of net; the word is French, its English equivalent being _pearl-tie_. The French word is chiefly employed.

_Brides ornées_ = brides ornamented with picots, loops, or pearls.

_Buttonhole Stitch._ One of the chief stitches in needle-made lace; also known as _close stitch_, _Point noué_, and _Punto a Feston_.