Chapter XXII: Part 2: , 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in (7)

"Nov. 4. Paid 10 rixd. to a female lace-worker who received her
dismissal.

"Nov. 11. Paid 71 specie dollars to a lace-seller for lace for the
use of the children.

"Paid 33 specie dollars and 18 skill. Lubec money, to the same man
for lace and cambric.

"1625. May 19. Paid 21 rixd. for lace.

"Dec. 20. Paid 25 specie dollars 15 skill. Lubec money, for taffetas
and lace."

[731] 1639.

[732] _Rawert's Report upon the Industry in the Kingdom of Denmark._ 1848.

[733] "The Great Recess."

[734] Two-thirds of a yard.

[735] Dated 1643.

[736] "Tönder lace, fine and middling, made in the districts of Lygum
Kloster, keeps all the peasant girls employed. Thereof is exported
to the German markets and the Baltic, it is supposed, for more than
100,000 rixdollars (£11,110), and the fine thread must be had from
the Netherlands, and sometimes costs 100 rixdollars per
lb."--_Pontoppidan. Economical Balance._ 1759.

[737] "In the Victoria and Albert Museum collection, Denmark is
represented by a few skilful embroideries done on and with fine
linen, muslin and suchlike, which are somewhat similar in appearance
to lace fabrics of Mechlin design."--(A. S. Cole.)

[738] "The lace fabric in North Sleswick in 1840 was divided into two
districts--that of Tönder and Lygum Kloster on the western coasts,
and that of Haderslaben and Apenraade on the east. The quality of
the lace from these last localities is so bad that no Copenhagen
dealers will have it in their shops."--_Report of the Royal
Sleswick-Holstein Government._ 1840.

[739] Mr. Jens Wulff, an eminent lace-dealer, Knight of the Danebrog, who
has made great exertions to revive the lace industry in Denmark.

[740] Tönder lace was celebrated for its durability, the best flax or silk
thread only being used.

[741] "A lace-maker earns from 3½d. to 4½d. per day of sixteen
hours."--_Rawert's Report._ 1848.

[742] The Tönder lace-traders enjoy the privilege of offering their wares
for sale all over Denmark without a license (concession), a
privilege extended to no other industry.

[743] The early perfection of Bridget herself in this employment, if we
may credit the chronicle of the Abbess Margaretha, 1440-46, may be
ascribed to a miraculous origin.

When, at the age of twelve, she was employed at her knitted
lace-work, a fear came over her that she should not finish her work
creditably to herself, and in her anxiety she raised her heart
above. As her aunt came into the chamber she beheld an unknown
maiden sitting opposite to her niece, and aiding her in her task;
she vanished immediately, and when the aunt asked Bridget who had
helped her she know nothing about it, and assured her relation she
had seen no one.

All were astonished at the fineness and perfection of the work, and
kept the lace as of miraculous origin.

[744] _Wadstena Past and Present_ (Förr och Nu).

[745] The letter is dated March 20th, 1544.

[746] In the detailed account of the trousseau furnished to his daughter,
there is no mention of lace; but the author of _One Year in Sweden_
has seen the body of his little granddaughter, the Princess
Isabella, daughter of John III., as it lies in the vault of
Strengnäs, the child's dress and shoes literally covered with gold
and silver lace of a Gothic pattern, fresh and untarnished as though
made yesterday.

[747] In the Victoria and Albert Museum there is a collection of Norwegian
cut-work of the eighteenth century.

[748] Weber. _Bilberbuch._

Leipzig, 1746. _Handbok for unga Fruntimmer_, by Ekenmark.
Stockholm, 1826-28.

[749] Some are twice the width of Fig. 117.

[750] For this information, with a collection of specimens, the author has
to thank Madame Petre of Gefle.

[751] The Russian bobbins are interesting by reason of their archaic
simplicity. Lacking any trace of decoration, whether suggested by
sentimental fancy or artistic taste, they are purely utilitarian,
mere sticks of wood, more or less straight and smooth, and six or
seven inches long.

[752] A depôt has been opened in London, where Russian laces and
embroidery of all kinds are shown.

[753] _Rot. Parl. 37 Edw. III._ Printed. P. 278, Col. 2, No. 26.

[754] See her monument in Westminster Abbey.--Sandford's _Genealogical
History_.

[755] "Blanche, Duchess of Lancaster, wife of John of Gaunt, wears a
quilted silk cap with a three-pointed border of broad lace network."
(Sandford. St. Paul's monument, after Dugdale.) "Elizabeth, Duchess
of Exeter, died 1425 (Sandford, p. 259), wore also a caul of network
with a needlework edging."

[756] In the Statute 2 Rich. II. = 1378, merchant strangers are allowed to
sell in gross and in retail "gold wire or silver wire" and other
such small ware. Neither in this nor in the Treaty 13 Rich. II. =
1390, between England, the Count of Flanders, and "les bonnes Gentz
des Trois bonnes villes de Flandres Gand, Brugges et Ipre" (see
Rymer), is there any mention of lace, which, even if fabricated, was
of too little importance as an article of commerce to deserve
mention save as other "small wares."

[757] Pins not yet being in common use, any lace would be called "work of
the needle."

[758] 3 Edw. IV., cap. iv.

[759] "1463. John Barett bequeaths to 'My Lady Walgrave, my musk ball of
gold with [=p]le and lace.

"'Item, to John Eden, my o gr. of tawny silk with poynts of needle
work--_opus punctatum_.'"--_Bury Wills and Inventories._

[760] Bib. Harl. 2,320.

[761] Such as "Lace Bascon, Lace endented, Lace bordred on both syde, yn o
syde, pykke Lace bordred, Lace Condrak, Lace Dawns, Lace Piol, Lace
covert, Lace coverte doble, Lace compon coverte, Lace maskel, Lace
cheyne brode, Las Cheveron, Lace Oundé, Grene dorge, Lace for
Hattys," etc.

Another MS. of directions for making these same named laces is in
the possession of the Vicar of Ipsden, Oxfordshire, and has been
examined by the author through the kindness of Mr. W. Twopenny.

[762] Bows, loops.

[763] Additional MSS. No. 6,293, small quarto, ff. 38. It contains
instructions for making various laces, letters and "edges," such as
"diamond stiff, fly, cross, long S, figure of 8, spider, hart,"
etc., and at the end:--

"Heare may you see in Letters New
The Love of her that honoreth you.
My love is this,
Presented is
The Love I owe
I cannot showe,
The fall of Kings
Confusion bringes
Not the vallyou but the Love
When this you see
Remember me."

In the British Museum (Lansdowne Roll, No. 22) is a third MS. on the
same subject, a parchment roll written about the time of Charles I.,
containing rules and directions for executing various kinds of
sampler-work, to be wrought in letters, etc., by means of coloured
strings or bows. It has a sort of title in these words, "To know the
use of this Booke it is two folkes worke," meaning that the works
are to be done by two persons.

Probably of this work was the "Brede (braid) of divers colours,
woven by Four Ladies," the subject of some verses by Waller
beginning:--

"Twice twenty slender Virgins' Fingers twine
This curious web, where all their fancies shine.
As Nature them, so they this shade have wrought,
Soft as their Hands, and various as their Thoughts," etc.

[764] 1 Rich. III. = 1483. Act XII.

[765] _Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York,_ and _Wardrobe Accounts
of King Edward IV._, by Sir H. Nicolas.

[766] 1 Rich. III. renews 3 Edw. IV. for ten years, and that of Richard is
continued by 19 Henry VII. for twenty years more.

[767] 4 Hen. VII. = 1488-9.

[768] P.R.O. The same Warrant contains an order to deliver "for the use
and wearing of our right dere daughter the Lady Mary," together with
a black velvet gown, scarlet petticoat, etc., "a nounce of lace for
her kyrtel," and a thousand "pynnes."

[769] In the list of the late King Henry's plate, made 1543, we have some
curious entries, in which the term lace appears:--

"Item, oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnation Roobe
knitt with a knott in the lefte shoulder and bare hedid with her
heere rowlid up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde.

"Item, oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnac[=o]n
garment after the Inglishe tyer and bareheddid with her heare rowled
up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde."--P. R. O.

[770] 19 Hen. VII. = 1504.

[771] Sir H. Nicolas.

[772] Statute 1 Hen. VIII. = 1509-10. An act agaynst wearing of costly
Apparell, and again, 6 Hen. VIII. = 1514-15.

"Gard, to trim with lace."--Cotgrave.

"No less than crimson velvet did him grace,
All garded and regarded with gold lace."--Samuel Rowlands, _A Pair
of Spy-Knaves._

"I do forsake these 'broidered gardes,
And all the fashions new."--_The Queen in King Cambisis_, circ.
1615.

[774] Under forfeiture of the same shirt and a fine of 40 shillings.

[775] 7 Hen. VIII. = 1515-16.--"Thacte of Apparell."

[776] 24 Hen. VIII. = 1532-33.--"An Act for Reformation of excess in
Apparel."

[777] In 1539.

[778] Lisle. _Corr._ Vol. i., p. 64. P.R.O. Lord Lisle was Governor of
Calais, whence the letter is dated.

Honor. Lylle to Madame Antoinette
de Sevenges, à Dunkerke.

"Madame,--Je ne vous eusse vollu envoier ceste demi dousaine pour
changier nestoit que tous celles que menvoiez dernierement sont trop
larges, et une dousaine estoit de cestuy ouvrage dont jestis
esmerveillé, veu que je vous avois escript que menvoissiez de
louvrage aux lozenges, vous priant que la demy dousaine que
menvoierez pour ceste demy dousaine soient du dict ouvrage de
lozenge, et quil soient plus estroictes mesmement par devant
nonobstant que lexemple est au contraire."

[779] Among the marriage clothes of Mary Neville, who espoused George
Clifton, 1536, is:--

"A neyge of perle, £1 4s. 0d."

In the pictures, at Hampton Court Palace, of Queens Mary and
Elizabeth, and another of Francis II., all as children, their ruffs
are edged with a very narrow purl.

[780] 1538. Lisle. _Corr._ (P.R.O.)

[781] See Note 776.

[782] Privy Purse Ex. Hen. VIII. 1529-32. Sir H. Nicolas.

[783] Father of Lord Burleigh. There are other similar entries:--"8 pieces
of yellow lace, 9s. 4d." Also, "green silk lace."

1632, "green silk lace" occurs again, as trimming a pair of French
shoes in a "Bill of shoes for Sir Francis Windebank and
family."--State Papers Dom. Vol. 221. P.R.O.

[784] "Inv. of Hen. VIII. and 4 Edw. VI." Harl. MS. 1419, A and B.

[785] 38 Hen. VIII. = 1546. Rymer's _Foedera_. Vol. xv., p. 105.

[786] Harl. MS. 1419. _Passim._

[787] See Holbein's portraits.

[788] "The old cut-work cope."--Beaumont and Fletcher. _The Spanish
Curate._

[789] We read, too, of "3 kyrcheys y^t was given to the kyrk wash," large
as a woman's hood worn at a funeral, highly ornamented with the
needle by pious women, and given to be sold for the good of the
impoverished church, for which the churchwardens of St. Michael,
Spurr Gate, York, received the sum of 5s.

[790] 1 and 2 Ph. and Mary.

[791] "White work" appears also among Queen Elizabeth's New Year's
Gifts:--

"1578. Lady Ratcliff. A veil of white work, with spangles and small
bone lace of silver. A swete bag, being of changeable silk, with a
small bone lace of gold.

"1589. Lady Shandowes (Chandos). A cushion cloth of lawne wrought
with whitework of branches and trees, edged with bone work, wrought
with crowns."--Nichols' _Royal Progresses_.

[792] Roll of New Year's Gifts. 1556.

[793] Stowe, _Queen Mary_. An. 1554.

[794] It is not known when brass wire pins were first made in England, but
it must have been before 1543, in which year a Statute was passed
(35 Hen. VIII.) entitled, "An Act for the True Making of Pynnes," in
which the price is fixed not to exceed 6s. 8d. per 1,000. By an Act
of Rich. III. the importation of pins was prohibited. The early pins
were of boxwood, bone, bronze or silver. In 1347 (_Liber Garderobæ_,
12-16 Edw. III. P. R. O.) we have a charge for 12,000 pins for the
trousseau of Joanna, daughter of Edward III., betrothed to Peter the
Cruel. The young Princess probably escaped a miserable married life
by her decease of the black death at Bordeaux when on her way to
Castille.

The annual import of pins in the time of Elizabeth amounted to
£3,297.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. viii. P. R. O.

In Eliz., Q. of Bohemia's Expenses, we find: "Dix mille espingles
dans un papier, 4 florins."--Ger. Corr. No. 41. P. R. O.

"In Holland pillow-lace is called Pinwork lace--Gespelde-werkte
kant."--_Sewell's Eng. and Dutch Dict._

[795] An elderly woman informed the author that she recollects in her
youth, when she learned to make Honiton point of an ancient teacher
of the parish, bone pins were still employed. They were in use until
a recent period, and renounced only on account of their costliness.
The author purchased of a Devonshire lace-maker one, bearing date
1829, with the name tatooed into the bone, the gift of some
long-forgotten youth to her grandmother. These bone or wood bobbins,
some ornamented with glass beads--the more ancient with silver let
in--are the calendar of a lace-worker's life. One records her first
appearance at a neighbouring fair or May meeting; a second was the
first gift of her good man, long cold in his grave; a third the
first prize brought home by her child from the dame school, and
proudly added to her mother's cushion: one and all, as she sits
weaving her threads, are memories of bygone days of hopes and fears,
of joys and sorrows; and, though many a sigh it calls forth, she
cherishes her well-worn cushion as an old friend, and works away,
her present labour lightened by the memory of the past.

[796] Surtees' _Wills and Inv._

"Hearing bone lace value 5s. 4d." is mentioned "in y^e shoppe of
John Johnston, of Darlington, merchant."

[797] 1578. "James Backhouse, of Kirby in Lonsdale. Bobbin lace, 6s. per
ounce."

1597. "John Farbeck, of Durham. In y^e Shoppe, 4 oz. & ½ of Bobbing
lace, 6s. 4d."--_Ibid._

"Bobbin" lace is noted in the Royal Inventories, but not so
frequently as "bone."

"Laqueo ... fact. super lez bobbins."--G. W. A. Eliz., 27 and 28. P.
R. O.

"Three peces teniar bobbin."--_Ibid._ Car. I., vi.

"One pece of bobin lace, 2s.," occurs frequently in the accounts of
Lord Compton, afterwards Earl of Northampton, Master of the Wardrobe
of Prince Charles.--Roll, 1622-23, Extraordinary Expenses, and
others. P. R. O.

[798] In the Ward. Acc. of his brother, Prince Henry, 1607, and the
Warrant to the G. Ward., on his sister the Princess Elizabeth's
marriage, 1612-13, "bone" lace is in endless quantities.

Bobbin lace appears invariably distinguished from bone lace, both
being mentioned in the same inventory. The author one day showed an
old Vandyke Italian edging to a Devonshire lace-worker, asking her
if she could make it. "I think I can," she answered; "it is bobbin
lace." On inquiring the distinction, she said: "Bobbin lace is made
with a coarse thread, and in its manufacture we use long bobbins
instead of the boxwood of ordinary size, which would not hold the
necessary quantity of this thread, though sufficient for the quality
used in making Honiton flowers and Trolly lace."--Mrs. Palliser.

[799] Randle Holme, in his enumeration of terms used in arts, gives: "Bone
lace, wrought with pegs."

The materials used for bobbins in Italy have been already mentioned.

[800] Lord Compton. "Extraordinary Expenses of the Wardrobe of K. Charles,
before and after he was King."--Roll, 1622-26. P. R. O.

[801] An. 1635.

[802] A miniature of Old Hilliard, now in the possession of his Grace the
Duke of Hamilton.

[803] 1614.

[804] Massinger. 1612.

[805] Beaumont and Fletcher.

[806] "The things you follow and make songs on now, should be sent to
knit, or sit down to bobbins or bone-lace."--_Tatler._

[807] "We destroy the symmetry of the human figure, and foolishly combine
to call off the eye from great and real beauties to childish gewgaw
ribbands and bone-lace."--_Spectator._

[808] It is used in Walpole's _New British Traveller_. 1784.

[809] Haliwell gives compas as "a circle; Anglo-Norman."

[810] Partlet, a small ruff or neck-band.

[811] "Eidem pro 4 pec' de opera Rhet' bon' florat' in forma oper' sciss'
ad 24s., £4 16s."--G. W. A. Eliz., 43 to 44.

1578-79. New Year's Gifts. Baroness Shandowes. "A vail of black
network flourished with flowers of silver and a small
bone-lace."--Nichols.

[812] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth Century.

[813] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth century.

[814] Crown lace--so called from the pattern being worked on a succession
of crowns sometimes intermixed with acorns or roses. A relic of this
lace may still be found in the "faux galon" sold by the German Jews,
for the decoration of fancy dresses and theatrical purposes. It is
frequently mentioned. We have:--

"12 yards laquei, called crown lace of black gold and silk."--G. W.
A. Eliz. 4 & 5.

"18 yards crown lace purled with one wreath on one side."--_Ibid._ 5
& 6.

[815] "11 virgis laquei Byas."--_Ibid._ 29 & 30.

[816] Hemming and edging 8 yards of ruff of cambric with white lace called
hollow lace, and various entries of Spanish lace, Fringe, Black
chain, Diamond, knotted, hollow, and others, are scattered through
the earlier Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth.

The accounts of the Keepers of the Great Wardrobe, which we shall
have occasion so frequently to cite, are now deposited in the Public
Record Office, to which place they were transferred from the Audit
Office in 1859. They extend from the 1 Elizabeth = 1558 to Oct. 10,
1781, and comprise 160 volumes, written in Latin until 1730-31, when
the account appears in English, and is continued so to the end.
1748-49 is the last account in which the items are given.

[817] Eliz. 30 & 31. Billament lace occurs both in the "shoppes" and
inventories of the day. Among the list of foreigners settled in the
City of London in 1571 (State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol 84. P.R.O.),
are: William Crutall, "useth the craft of making byllament lace";
Rich. Thomas, Dutch, "a worker of Billament lace."

In 1573 a country gentleman, by his will deposited in the
Prerogative Court of Canterbury (Brayley and Britton's _Graphic
Illustrations_), bequeaths: "To my son Tyble my short gown faced
with wolf skin and laid with Billements lace."

In John Johnston's shop we have: "3 doz. of velvet Billemunt lace,
12s." In that of John Farbeck, 9 yards of the same. (Surtees' _Wills
and Inv._) Widow Chapman of Newcastle's inventory, 1533, contains:
"One old cassock of broad cloth, with billements lace, 10s."
(_Ibid._)

[818] 95 dozen rich silver double diamond and cross laces occur also in
the _Extraordinary Expenses for Prince Charles's Journey to Spain_.
1623.--P. R. O.

[819] 1571. "In y^e Great Shop, 8 peces of 'waborne' lace, 16d."--_Mr.
John Wilkinson's Goods, of Newcastle, Merchant._

1580. "100 Gross and a half of 'waborne' lace."--_Inv. of Cuthbert
Ellyson._

1549. John de Tronch, Abbot of Kilmainham Priory, is condemned to
pay 100 marks fine for detaining 2 lbs. of Waborne thread, value
3s., and other articles, the property of W. Sacy.

[820] G. W. A. Eliz. 16 & 17.

[821] "Eidem pro 6 manuterg' de camerick operat' cum serico nigra
trustich," etc.--G. W. A. Eliz. 41 & 42, and, again, 44.

[822] 1572. Inventory of Thomas Swinburne of Ealingham, Esq.

"His Apparell."

"A wellwett cote layd with silver las.

"A satten doullet layd with silver las.

"A payr of wellwett sleeves layd with silver las."--Surtees'
_Wills and Inv._

[823] New Year's Gifts. Lady Mary Sidney. "A smock and two pillow beres of
cameryck wrought with black-work and edged with a broad bone-lace of
black sylke."

[824] "Eidem pro 6 caules alb' nodat opat' cu' le chainestich et ligat'
cu' tape de filo soror, ad 14s., 4l. 4s."--G. W. A. Eliz. 41 & 42.

Also in the last year of her reign (1602) we find:--

"Six fine net caules flourished with chaine stitch with sister's
thread."--Wardrobe Accounts. B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.

[825] In 1583.

[826] G. W. A. Eliz. 38 & 39. We have it also on ruffs.

"Eidem pro 2 sutes de lez ruffs bon' de la lawne operat' in le laid
work et edged cum ten' bon' ad 70s. per pec', 7l."--G. W. A. Eliz.
43 & 44.

[827] G. W. A. Eliz., last year of her reign. Again--

1600. "Drawing and working with black silk drawne worke, five smocks
of fine holland cloth."--B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.

"These Holland smocks as white as snow,
And gorgets brave with drawn-work wrought."
--_Pleasant Quippes for Upstart Newfangled Gentlewomen._ 1596.

[828] As early as 1485 we have in the inventory of St. Mary-at-Hill, "An
altar cloth of diaper, garnished with 3 blue Kays (St. Peter's) at
each end." All the church linen seems to have been embroidered in
blue thread, and so appears to have been the smocks and other linen.

Jenkin, speaking of his sweetheart, says: "She gave me a shirt
collar, wrought over with no counterfeit stuff."

GEORGE: "What! was it gold?"

JENKIN: "Nay, 'twas better than gold."

GEORGE: "What was it?"

JENKIN: "Right Coventry blue."--_Pinner of Wakefield._ 1599.

"It was a simple napkin wrought with Coventry blue."--_Laugh and Lie
Downe, or the Worlde's Folly._ 1605.

"Though he perfume the table with rose cake or appropriate bone-lace
and Coventry blue," writes Stephens in his _Satirical Essays_. 1615.

In the inventory of Mary Stuart, taken at Fotheringay, after her
death, we have: "Furniture for a bedd of black velvet, garnished
with Bleue lace. In the care of Rallay, _alias_ Beauregard."

This blue lace is still to be found on baptismal garments which have
been preserved in old families on the Continent and in England.

[829] The widow of the famous clothier, called Jack of Newbury, is
described when a bride as "led to church between two boys with bride
laces and rosemary tied about their sleeves."

[830] "Tawdry. As Dr. Henshaw and Skinner suppose, of knots and ribbons,
bought at a fair held in St. Audrey's Chapel; fine, without grace or
elegance."--_Bailey's Dict._ 1764.

Southey (_Omniana._ Vol. i., p. 8) says:--

"It was formerly the custom in England for women to wear a necklace
of fine silk called Tawdry lace, from St. Audrey.

"She had in her youth been used to wear carcanets of jewels, and
being afterwards tormented with violent pains in the neck, was wont
to say, that Heaven, in his mercy, had thus punished her for her
love of vanity. She died of a swelling in her neck. Audry (the same
as Ethelrede) was daughter of King Anna, who founded the Abbey of
Ely."

Spenser in the _Shepherd's Calender_, has:--

"Bind your fillets faste
And gird in your waste
For more fineness with a tawdry lace;"

and in the _Faithful Shepherdess_ of Beaumont and Fletcher,
Amaryllis speaks of

"The primrose chaplet, tawdry lace and ring."

[831] A passage already quoted in _Much Ado about Nothing_ shows us that,
in Shakespeare's time, the term "to lace" was generally used as a
verb, denoting to decorate with trimming. Margaret, the tiring
woman, describes the Duchess of Milan's gown as of "Cloth o' gold,
and cuts, and laced with silver."

[832] _Much Ado about Nothing._

[833] New Year's Gifts of Mrs. Wyngfield, Lady Southwell, and Lady
Willoughby.--_Nichols' Royal Progresses._

[834] "Mrs. Edmonds. A cushion cloth of lawn cutwork like leaves, and a
few owes of silver."--New Year's Gifts.

"Eidem pro le edginge unius panni vocat' a quishion cloth de lawne
alb' operat' cum spaces de opere sciss' et pro viii. virg' de Laquei
alb' lat' operat' sup' oss' 33s. 4d."--G. W. A. Eliz. 31 & 32.

[835] "Mistress Twist, the Court laundress. Four toothcloths of Holland
wrought with black silk and edged with bone lace of silver and black
silk."--New Year's Gifts.

[836] "Lady Ratcliffe. A night coyf of white cutwork flourished with
silver and set with spangles."--_Ibid._

[837] "Cropson. A night coyf of cameryk cutwork and spangells, with a
forehead cloth, and a night border of cutwork with bone
lace."--_Ibid._ 1577-8.

[838] "Eidem pro emenda[=c] lavacione et starching unius par' corpor'
(stays) et manic' de lawne alb' bon' deorsum operat' in diversis
locis cum spaciis Lat' de operibus Italic' scis[=s] 20_sh._"--G. W.
A. Eliz. 26-27.

[839] _Ibid._

[840] _Ibid._ 28-29.

[841] G. W. A. Eliz. 29-30.

[842] _Ibid._ 35-36.

[843] _Ibid._ 43-44. "A round kyrtle of cutwork in lawne."--B. M. Add.
MSS. No. 5751.

[844] "One yard of double Italian cutwork a quarter of a yard wide, 55s.
4d."--G. W. A. Eliz. 33 and 34.

"Una virga de opere sciss' lat' de factura Italica, 26s.
8d."--_Ibid._ 29 & 30.

[845] "For one yard of double Flanders cutwork worked with Italian purl,
33s. 4d."--_Ibid._ 33 & 34.

[846] "3 suits of good lawn cutwork ruffs edged with good bone lace
'operat' super oss',' at 70s., 10l. 10s."--_Ibid._ 43 & 44.

[847] "7 virg' Tenie lat' operis acui, ad 6s. 8d., 46s. 8d."--_Ibid._
37-38.

[848] "Eidem pro 2 pectoral' de ope' sciss' fact' de Italic' et Flaundr'
purle, ad 46s."--_Ibid._ 42 & 43.

"Eidem pro 1 virg' de Tenie de opere acuo cum le purle Italic' de
cons' ope' acuo 20s."--G. W. A. Eliz. 40 & 41.

[849] Eliz. 44 = 1603.

[850] "3 yards broad needlework lace of Italy, with the purls of similar
work, at 50s. per yard, 8l. 15s."--_Ibid._ 41-42.

Bone lace varies in price from 40s. the dozen to 11s. 6d. the yard.
Needle-made lace from 6s. 8d. to 50s.--G. W. A. _Passim._

[851] Lace is always called "lacqueus" in the Gt. Wardrobe Accounts up to
1595-6, after which it is rendered "tænia." Both terms seem, like
our "lace" to have been equally applied to silk passements.

"Galons de soye, de l'espèce qui peuvent être dénominés par le terme
latin de 'tæniola.'"

"Laqueus, enlassements de diverses couleurs, galons imitation de ces
chaînes qui les Romains faisoient peindre, dorer et argenter, pour
les rendre plus supportables aux illustres malheureux que le sort
avoit réduit à les porter."--_Traité des Marques Nationales._ Paris,
1739.

[852] "Fine white or nun's thread is made by the Augustine nuns of Crema,"
writes Skippin, 1631.

From the Great Wardrobe Accounts the price appears to have been half
a crown an ounce.

"Eidem pro 2 li. 4 unc.' fili Sororis, ad 2s. 6d. per unciam, 4l.
10s."--Eliz. 34 & 35.

[853] State Papers Domestic. Eliz. Vol. 84. The sum total amounts to
4,287.

[854] See BURGUNDY. "The naturalized French residing in this country are
Normans of the district of Caux, a wicked sort of French, worse than
all the English," writes, in 1553, Stephen Porlin, a French
ecclesiastic, in his _Description of England and Scotland_.

[855] 1559. Oct. 20. Proclamation against excess of apparel.--State
Papers Dom. Eliz. Vol. vii.

1566. Feb. 12.--_Ibid._ Vol. xxxix.

1579. Star Chamber on apparel.

[856] State Papers Dom. Eliz. Vol. xxiii. No. 8.

[857] _Ibid._ Vol. xlvii. No. 49.

[858] _Ibid._ Vol. viii. No. 31.

[859] The value of thread imported amounts to £13,671 13s. 4d.

[860] Walsingham writes: In opening a coffer of the Queen of Scots, he
found certain heades which so pleased certain ladies of his
acquaintance, he had taken the liberty to detain a couple.

[861] "A mantel of lawn cutwork wrought throughout with cutwork of
'pomegranettes, roses, honeysuckles, cum crowns.'"

"A doublet of lawn cutwork worked with 'lez rolls and true loves,'
&c."--G. W. A. Eliz. Last year.

[862] New Year's Gifts. By the Lady Shandowes. 1577-8.

[863] Marquis of Northampton.

[864] Lady Carew. "A cushyn of fine cameryk edged with bone lace of Venice
sylver."

[865] "Laqueus de serico Jeano"--(Genoa). G. W. A. Eliz. 30-1.

[866] 1571. _Revels at Court._ Cunningham.

Some curious entries occur on the occasion of a Masque called "The
Prince" given at court in 1600:--

"For the tooth-drawer:

"To loope leace for his doublet and cassacke, 8s.

"For leace for the corne-cutters suite, 7s.

"For green leace for the tinkers suite, 2s.

"For the mouse-trapp-man:

"6 yards of copper leace to leace _is_ cloake, at 1s. 8d., 10s.

"The Prophet merely wears fringe, 2 Ruffes and cuffes, 3s. 10d."

The subject of the Masque seems lost to posterity.

[867] Lady Chandos, jun. "A cushyn cloth of lawne, wrought with white
worke of branches and trees edged with white bone worke wrought with
crownes."--New Year's Gifts. 1577-8.

[868] 1572. _Revels at Court._

[869] In the possession of Mrs. Evans of Wimbledon.

[870] Sir Gawine Carew. "A smock of cameryke wrought with black work and
edged with bone lace of gold."

Lady Souche. "A smock of cameryke, the ruffs and collar edged with a
bone lace of gold."

The Lady Marquis of Winchester. "A smock of cameryke wrought with
tanny silk and black, the ruffs and collar edged with a bone lace of
silver."--New Year's Gifts. 1578-9.

[871] "A bearing cloth," for the Squire's child, is mentioned in the
_Winter's Tale_.

[872] Many of these Christening robes of lace and point are preserved as
heirlooms in old families; some are of old guipure, others of
Flanders lace, and later of Valenciennes, or needle-point. The bib
formed of guipure padded, with tiny mittens of lace, were also
furnished to complete the suit.

[873] In 1584-5 Queen Elizabeth sends a most wonderful apron to be washed
and starched, of cambric, edged with lace of gold, silver, and
in-grain carnation silk, "operat' super oss'," with "pearl buttons
pro ornatione dict' apron."--G. W. A. Eliz. 26 & 27.

"A handkerchief she had,
All wrought with silke and gold,
Which she, to stay her trickling tears,
Before her eyes did hold."
--"Ballad of George Barwell."

[875] New Year's Gift of Lady Radcliffe. 1561.

[876] New Year's Gift of Lady St. Lawrence.

[877] Surtees' Wills and Inv. "Though the luxury of the court was
excessive, the nation at large were frugal in their habits. Our
Argentine of Dorset was called 'Argentine the Golden,' in
consequence of his buckles, tags, and laces being of gold. Such an
extravagance being looked on as a marvel in the remote hamlets of
the southern counties."

[878] Hence ruffles, diminutive of ruffs. "Ruff cuffs" they are called in
the G. W. A. of James I., 11 & 12.

[879] Stowe's Chron.

[880] Endless are the entries in the Gt. W. Acc. for washing, starching
and mending. The court laundress can have had no sinecure. We find
"le Jup de lawne operat' cum stellis et aristis tritici Anglice
wheateares" (Eliz. 42 & 43), sent to be washed, starched, etc. A
network vail "sciss' totum desuper cum ragged staves." (Leicester's
device. _Ibid._ 29 & 30.) A diploid' (doublet) of cut-work
flourished "cum auro et spangles" (_Ibid._), and more wonderful
still, in the last year of her reign she has washed and starched a
toga "cum traine de la lawne operat' in auro et argento in forma
caudarum pavorum," the identical dress in which she is portrayed in
one of her portraits.

[881] "Eidem pro un ruff bon pynned sup' le wier Franc' c[=u] rhet' aur'
spangled, 70s."--Eliz. 42 & 43.

[882] Gt. W. Acc. Eliz. 33 & 34.

[883] "B.: Where's my ruff and poker?"

"R.: There's your ruff, shall I poke it?"

"B.: So poke my ruff now."--Old Play by P. Dekker. 1602.

Autolycus, among his wares, has "poking-sticks of steel."

"Poked her rebatoes and surveryed her steel."--_Law Tricks._ 1608.

[884] Middleton's Comedy of _Blurt, Master Constable_.

[885] _Or, the World's Folly._ 1605.

[886] Stowe.

[887] _Ibid._

[888] Therefore she wore "chin" ruffs.

"Eidem pro 2 sutes de lez chinne ruffs edged cu' arg., 10s."--Eliz.
42 & 43.

[889] Ben Jonson. _Every Man Out of His Humour._ 1599.

[890] Lady Cromwell. "Three sutes of ruffs of white cutwork edged with a
passamayne of white."

Lady Mary Se'm'. "3 ruffs of lawne cutwork of flowers."

[891] "They are either clogged with gold, silver, or silk laces of stately
price, wrought all over with needleworke, speckeled and sparkeled
here and there with the sunne, the moone, the starres and many other
antiques strange to beholde. Some are wrought with open worke donne
to the midst of the ruffe, and further some with close worke, some
with purled lace so closed and other gewgawes so pestered, as the
ruff is the leest parte of itself."--Stubbe's Description of the
Cut-work Ruff.

[892] _Anatomie of Abuses._ 1583.

[893] "Eidem pro 3 dozin laquei fact' de crine brayded cum lez rising
puffs de crine, ad 36s. le dd., £5 8s."--Eliz. 31 & 32.

The entry occurs frequently.

In _Ibid._ 87 & 38 is a charge "pro 4 pirrywigges de crine," at 16s.
8d. each.

[894] In the G. W. A. of the last year of her reign, Elizabeth had a
variety of devices in false hair. We have:--

"Eidem pro 200 invencionibus factis decrine in forma lez lowpes et
tuftes," at 6d. each; the like number in the form of leaves at 12d.;
12 in form of "lez Peramides," at 3s. 4d.; 24 of Globes, at 12d.,
with hair by the yard, made in lowpes, "crispat' curiose fact',"
curle rotund', and other wonderful "inventions."

[895] "Your trebble-quadruple Dædalian ruffes, nor your stiffe necked
Rebatoes that have more arches for pride to row under than can stand
under five London Bridges."--_The Gul's Hornebooke_, by T. Deckar.
London, 1609.

[896] Beaumont and Fletcher. _Nice Valour._

[897] _Ibid._ _The Blind Lady._ 1661.

[898] 1641.

[899] Called by James I. "the King of Preachers." Ob. 1621

[900] In the _Dumb Knight_, 1608, a woman, speaking of her ruff, says:--

"This is but shallow. I have a ruff is a quarter deep, measured by
the yard."

[901] See the portraits in the National Portrait Gallery of Sir Dudley and
Lady Carleton, by Cornelius Janssens, of the Queen of Bohemia, by
Mirevelt, and of the Countess of Pembroke, by Mark Geerards. In
Westminster Abbey, the effigies of Queen Elizabeth and Mary Queen of
Scots, on their tombs.

[902] _Every Man Out of His Humour_, 1599.

Again, in his _Silent Woman_, he says:--

"She must have that
Rich gown for such a great day, a new one
For the next, a richer for the third; have the chamber filled with
A succession of grooms, footmen, ushers,
And other messengers; besides embroiderers,
Jewellers, tire-women, semsters, feather men,
Perfumers; whilst she feels not how the land
Drops away, nor the acres melt; nor foresees
The change, when the mercer has your woods
For her velvets; never weighs what her pride
Costs, Sir."

[903] "Second Acc. of Sir John Villiers, 1617-8." P. R. O.

"150 yards of fyne bone lace for six extraordinary ruff's provided
against his Majesty's marriage, at 9s., 67s. 10d."--Extraordinary
Expenses. 1622-6. P. R. O.

[904] State Papers Dom., Jac. I. Vol. iii., No. 89. P. R. O.

[905] Jasper Mayne. 1670.

[906] "Mistris Turner, the first inventresse of yellow starch, was
executed in a cobweb lawn ruff of that color at Tyburn, and with her
I believe that yellow starch, which so much disfigured our nation
and rendred them so ridiculous and fantastic, will receive its
funerall."--_Howel's Letters._ 1645.

[907] State Papers Dom., James I. Vol. cxiii. No. 18.

[908] We read that in 1574 the Venetian ladies dyed their lace the colour
of saffron. The fashion may therefore be derived from them.

"He is of England, by his yellow band."--_Notes from Black Fryers._
Henry Fitzgeffery. 1617.

"Now ten or twenty eggs will hardly suffice to starch one of these
yellow bandes."--Barnaby Rich. _The Irish_ _Hubbub, or the English
Hue and Cry._ 1622.

Killigrew, in his play called _The Parson's Wedding_, published in
1664, alludes to the time when "yellow starch and wheel verdingales
were cried down"; and in _The Blind Lady_, a play printed in 1661, a
serving-man says to the maid: "You had once better opinion of me,
though now you wash every day your best handkerchief in yellow
starch."

[909] _La Courtisane à la Mode, selon l'Usage de la Cour de ce Temps._
Paris, 1625.

[910] Carlo, in _Every Man Out of His Humour._ 1599.

[911] "Eidem pro 29 virg' le opere sciss' bon' Italic', ad 35s., £68
5s."--Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 5 & 6.

[912] _The New Inn._

[913] _Advice to Sir George Villiers._

[914] See _Parliamentary History of England._

Sir Giles was proceeded against as "a monopolist and patentee," and
sentenced to be degraded and banished for life.

[915] Speech in Parliament. _Rushout Papers._ Vol. xi., p. 916.

[916] "The office or grant for sealing bone lace was quashed by the King's
proclamation, 1639, dated from his manour of York."--_Verney
Papers._

[917] B. M. _Bib. Lands._ 172, No. 59.

[918] 1604. Sept. 27. Patent to Ric. Dike and others to make Venice gold
and silver thread for 21 years.--State Papers Dom., Jas. I. Vol. ix.
48.

1604. Dec. 30. Lease of the customs on gold and silver
thread.--_Ibid._ Vol. x.

1605. Feb. 2. The same. _Ibid._ Vol. xii.

1611. May 21. Patent to Ric. Dike renewed.--_Ibid._ Vol. lxiii. 9.

In the same year (June 30) we find a re-grant to the Earl of Suffolk
of the moiety of all seizures of Venice gold and silver formerly
granted in the fifth year of the King.--_Ibid._ Vol. lxiv. 66.

In 1622 a lease on the customs on gold and silver thread lace is
given to Sir Edward Villiers.--_Ibid._ Vol. cxxxii. 34.

[919] _Ibid._ Vol. cxxi. 64.

[920] _Ibid._ Vol. cxxxii. 34.

[921] In 1624 King James renews his prohibition against the manufacture of
"gold purles," as tending to the consumption of the coin and bullion
of the kingdom.--_Foedera_, Vol. xvii., p. 605.

[922] Petition. April 8, 1623.--State Papers, Vol. cxlii. 44. See Chap.
xxx.

[923] "Twoe payer of hande rebayters," _i.e._, cuffs.

[924] In the P. R. O. (State Papers Dom., James I. 1603, Sept. Vol. iii.
No. 89) is "A Memorandum of that Misteris Jane Dru[=m]onde her
recyte from Ester Littellye, the furnishinge of her Majesties Linen
Cloth," a long account, in which, among numerous other entries, we
find:--

"It. at Basinge. Twenty four yeardes of small nidle work, at 6s. the
yearde, £7 4s.

"More at Basinge. One ruffe cloth, cumbinge cloth and apron all
shewed with white worke, at 50s. the piece, £7 10s.

"It. one pece of fine lawin to bee a ruffe, £5.

"Item, for 18 yeards of fine lace to shewe the ruffe, at 6s. the
yearde, £5 8s.

"Item, 68 purle of fair needlework, at 20 pence the purle, £5 15s.
4d.

"Item, at Winchester, the 28th of September, one piece of cambrick,
£4.

"Item, for 6 yards of fine purle, at 20s., £6.

"Item, for 4 yards of great bone lace, at 9s. the yard, 36s.

Queen Anne has also a fair wrought sark costing £6, and a cut-work
handkerchief, £12, and 2 pieces of cut-work, ell wide and 2 yards
long, at £2. the length, etc.

[925] _Lady Audrye Walsingham's Account._ 1606.--P. R. O.

[926] Mary, her third daughter, died 1607, not two years of age. Mrs.
Greene quotes from the P. R. O. a note of the "necessaries to be
provided for the child," among which are six large cambric
handkerchiefs, whereof one is to be edged with "fair cut-work to lay
over the child's face"; six veils of lawn, edged with fair bone
lace; six "gathered bibs of fine lawn with ruffles edged with bone
lace," etc. The total value of the lace and cambric required for the
infant's garments is estimated at £300.--_Lives of the Princesses of
England._ Vol. vi., p. 90.

[927] England is rich in monumental effigies decorated with lace--too many
to enumerate. Among them we would instance that of Alice, Countess
of Derby, died 1636, in Harefield Church, Middlesex, in which the
lace is very carefully sculptured.--Communicated by Mr. Albert
Hartshorne.

[928] 1620-1. We have entries of "falling bands" of good cambric, edged
with beautiful bone lace, two dozen stitched and shagged, and
cut-work nightcaps, purchased for James I., in the same account,
with 28s. for "one load of hay to stuff the woolsacks for the
Parliament House."--G. W. Acc. Jac. I. 18 to 19.

In the same year, 1620, an English company exported a large quantity
of gold and silver lace to India for the King of Golconda.

[929] _Malcontent._ 1600.

[930] Extraordinary expenses, 1622-26. P. R. O.

[931] "2nd Acc. of Sir J. Villiers. 1617-18." P. R. O.

[932] Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 6 to 7.

[933] Taylor. 1640:--

"The beau would feign sickness
To show his nightcap fine,
And his wrought pillow overspread with lawn."--Davies. _Epigrams._

[934] "Acc. of Sir Lyonell Cranfield (now Earl of Middlesex), late Master
of the Great Wardrobe, touching the funeral of Queen Anne, who died
2nd March, 1618 (_i.e._ 1619 N. S.). P. R. O.

[935] About this time a complaint is made by the London tradesmen, of the
influx of refugee artizans, "who keepe theire misteries to
themselves, which hath made them bould of late to device engines for
workinge lace, &c., and such wherein one man doth more among them
than seven Englishmen can doe, soe as theire cheape sale of those
commodities beggareth all our English artificers of that trade and
enricheth them," which becomes "scarce tolleruble," they conclude.
Cecil, in consequence, orders a census to be made in 1621. Among the
traders appears "one satten lace maker."

Colchester is bitterly irate against the Dutch strangers, and
complains of one "Jonas Snav, a Bay and Say maker, whose wife
selleth blacke, browne, and white thredde, and all sorts of bone
lace and vatuegardes, which they receive out of Holland. One Isaac
Bowman, an Alyen born, a chirurgeon and merchant, selleth hoppes,
bone lace, and such like, to the great grievance of the free
burgesses."

A nest of refugee lace-makers, "who came out of France by reason of
the late 'trobles' yet continuing," were congregated at Dover
(1621-2). A list of about five-and-twenty "widows, being makers of
Bone lace," is given, and then Mary Tanyer and Margarett Le Moyne,
"maydens and makers of bone lace," wind up the catalogue of the
Dover "Alyens."

The Maidstone authorities complain that the thread-makers' trade is
much decayed by the importation of thread from Flanders.--_List of
Foreign Protestants resident in England._ 1618-88. Printed by the
Camden Society.

[936] Jasper Mayne.

[937] Beaumont and Fletcher.

[938] "Valuables of Glenurquhy, 1640." Innes' _Sketches of Early Scotch
History_.

[939] Collars of Hollie worke appear in the Inventories of Mary Stuart.

[940] "Thomas Hodges, for making ruffe and cuffes for his Highness of
cuttworke edged with a fayre peake purle, £7."--2nd Account of Sir
J. Villiers. Prince Charles. 1617-18. P. R. O.

"40 yards broad peaked lace to edge 6 cupboard cloths, at 4s. a
yard, £8."--_Ibid._

[941] "Seaming" lace and spacing lace appear to have been generally used
at this period to unite the breadths of linen, instead of a seam
sewed. We find them employed for cupboard cloths, cushion cloths,
sheets, shirts, etc., throughout the accounts of King James and
Prince Charles.

"At Stratford-upon-Avon is preserved, in the room where Shakspeare's
wife, Anne Hathaway, was born, an oaken linen chest, containing a
pillow-case and a very large sheet made of homespun linen. Down the
middle of the sheet is an ornamental open or cut-work insertion,
about an inch and a half deep, and the pillow-case is similarly
ornamented. They are marked E. H., and have always been used by the
Hathaway family on special occasions, such as births, deaths, and
marriages. This is still a common custom in Warwickshire; and many
families can proudly show embroidered bed linen, which has been used
on state occasions, and carefully preserved in old carved chests for
three centuries and more."--_A Shakspeare Memorial._ 1864.

[942] _The Truth of the Times._ W. Peacham. 1638.

[943] State Papers Dom. Jas. I. Vol. lxxii. No. 28.

[944] Warrant on the Great Wardrobe. 1612-13. Princess Elizabeth's
marriage.

[945] Frankfort fair, at which most of the German princes made their
purchases.

[946] German Correspondence. 1614-15.--P. R. O.

We find among the accounts of Col. Schomberg and others:--

"To a merchant of Strasbourg, for laces which she had sent from
Italy, 288 rix-dollars." And, in addition to numerous entries of
silver and other laces:--

"Pour dentelle et linge karé pour Madame, 115 florins."

"Donné Madame de Caus pour des mouchoirs à point couppée pour
Madame, £4."

"Une petite dentelle à point couppé, £3," etc.

Point coupé handkerchiefs seem to have been greatly in fashion. Ben
Jonson, "Bartholomew Fair," 1614, mentions them:--

"A cut-work handkerchief she gave me."

[947] See _Snelling's Coins._ Pl. ix. 8, 9, 10.

[948] _Ibid._ Pl. ix. 5, 6, 11.

[949] Evelyn, describing a medal of King Charles I., struck in 1633, says
he wears "a falling band, which new mode succeeded the cumbersome
ruff; but neither did the bishops or the judges give it up so soon,
the Lord Keeper Finch being, I think, the very first."

[950] In 1633, the bills having risen to £1,500 a year, a project is made
for reducing the charge for the King's fine linen and bone lace,
"for his body," again to £1,000 per annum, for which sum it "may be
very well done."--State Papers, Chas. I. Vol. ccxxxiv. No. 83.

[951] "Paid to Smith Wilkinson, for 420 yards of good Flanders bone lace
for 12 day ruffes and 6 night ruffes 'cum cuffes eisdem,' £87 15s.

"For 6 falling bands made of good broad Flanders lace and Cuttworks
with cuffs of the same, £52 16s."--Gt. W. A. Car. I. 6 = 1631.

[952] See G. W. A., Mich., 1629, to April, 1630.

[953] _Twelfth-Night._

[954] G. W. A. Car. I. The Annunciation 9 to Mich. 11.

[955] _Ibid._ 8 and 9.

[956] State Papers Dom. Charles I. Vol. cxlix. No. 31.

[957] In a letter to Mr. Edward Nicholas, Sec. of the Admiralty, March
7th, 1627 (afterwards Sec. of State to Chas. II.).--St. P. D. Chas.
I. Vol. cxxiii. 62.

Among the State Papers (Vol. cxxvi. 70), is a letter from Susan
Nicholas to her "loveing Brother," 1628. About lace for his band,
she writes: "I have sent you your bootehose and could have sent your
lase for your band, but that I did see these lasees which to my
thought did do a greddeale better then that wh you did bespeake, and
the best of them will cost no more then that which is half a crowne
a yard, and so the uppermost will cost you, and the other will cost
18 pence; I did thinke you would rather staye something long for it
then to pay so deare for that wh would make no better show; if you
like either of these, you shall have it sone desptch, for I am
promise to have it made in a fortnight. I have received the monie
from my cousson Hunton. Heare is no news to wright of. Thus with my
best love remembred unto you, I rest your very loving sister,

"SUSANNE NICHOLAS.

"I have sent ye the lase ye foyrst bespoke, to compare them
together, to see which ye like best."

[958] In 1620 an English company exported a large quantity of gold and
silver lace to India for the King of Golconda.

[959] W. Peacham, _Truth of the Times_. 1638.

Hamlet says there are

"Two Provençal roses on my regal shoes."

"When roses in the gardens grow,
And not in ribbons on a shoe;
Now ribbon-roses take such place,
That garden roses want their grace."
--"Friar Bacon's Prophesie." 1604.
"I like," says Evelyn, "the boucle better than the formal
rose."--_Tyrannus, or the Mode._

[960] This proclamation is dated from "our Honour of Hampton Court, 30th
April, 1635."--Rymer's _Foedera_. T. 19, p. 690.

[961] When Anne of Austria was suspected of secret correspondence with
Spain and England, Richelieu sent the Chancellor to question the
Abbess of the Val-de-Grâce with respect to the casket which had been
secretly brought into the monastery. The Abbess (_Vie de la Mère
d'Arbouse_) declared that this same casket came from the Queen of
England, and that it only contained lace, ribbons, and other
trimmings of English fashion, sent by Henrietta Maria as a present
to the Queen.--_Galerie de l'Ancienne Cour._ 1791.

[962] State Papers Dom. Vol. cxxiii. No. 65.

[963] "Rhodon and Iris, a Pastoral." 1631.

[964] "Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus." 1645.

[965] "You must to the Pawn (Exchange) to buy lawn, to St. Martin for
lace."--_Westward Ho._ 1607.

"A copper lace called St. Martin's lace."--Strype.

[966] Taylor, "Whip of Pride." 1640.

[967] In _Eastward Ho_, 1605, proud Gertrude says: "Smocks of three pound
a smock, are to be born with all."

[968] "Bartholomew Fair." 1614.

"She shewed me gowns and head tires,
Embroidered waistcoats, smocks seam'd thro' with cut-works."
--Beaumont and Fletcher, "Four Plays in One." 1647.

"Who would ha' thought a woman so well harness'd,
Or rather well caparison'd, indeed,
That wears such petticoats, and lace to her smocks,
Broad seaming laces."
--Ben Jonson, _The Devil is an Ass_. 1616.

[971] A suite of russet "laced all over with silver curle
lace."--"Expenses of Robt. Sidney, Earl of Leicester. Temp. Chas.
I."

"This comes of wearing
Scarlet, gold lace and cut-works; your fine gartering
With your blown roses."
--_The Devil is an Ass._

[973] _Notes from Black Fryers._

[974] Jasper Mayne. "Amorous War." 1659.

[975] "The Little French Lawyer."

[976] _Memoirs._

[977] _The Cromwell Family._

[978] Sir Philip Warwick. 1640.

[979] At the Restoration, it was removed from the Abbey and hung out of
the window at Whitehall, and then broken up and destroyed.

[980] 1661, Nov. 20. State Papers. Dom. Charles II. Vol. xliv. P. R. O.

[981] "To William Briers, for making the Colobium Sindonis of fine lawn
laced with fine Flanders lace, 33s. 4d.

"To Valentine Stucky, for 14 yards and a half of very fine Flanders
lace for the same, at 18s. per yard, £12 6s. 6d."--"Acc. of the E.
of Sandwich, Master of the G. W. for the Coronation of King Charles
II. 23 April, 1661." P. R. O.

[982] In the G. W. A. for 29 and 30 occurs a curious entry by the Master
of the Great Wardrobe:--"I doe hereby charge myself with 5,000
Livres by me received in the realm of France for gold and silver
fringes by me there sold, belon^g to a rich embroidered Bed of his
said Majesty, which at one shilling and sevenpence [per] lib.
English. Being the value of the Exchange at that time, amounts to
£395 16s. 8d.

"(Signed) R. MONTAGUE.
"May 28, 1678."

[983] 14 Car. II. c. 13. Statutes at large. The Acts of Charles II. date
from the death of his father; so the year of the Restoration, 1660,
is counted as the thirteenth of his reign.

[984] 1662. State Papers Dom. Charles II. Vol. lv., No. 25. P. R. O.

[985] He pays £194 to his Laceman (Tenentori) for 3 Cravats "de poynt de
Venez," and 24s. per yard for 57 yards of narrow point "teniæ poynt
augustæ," to trim his falling ruffles, "manicis cadentibus,"
etc.--G. W. A. Car. II. 24 and 25.

Later (1676-7) we find charged for "un par manicarum, le poynt,
£14."

[986] When it was replaced by a black ribbon and a bow.

[987] London, 1680.

[988] Authors, however, disagree like the rest of the world. In a tract
called _The Ancient Trades Decayed Repaired Again_, by Sir Roger
L'Estrange (1678), we read: "Nay, if the materials used in a trade
be not of the growth of England, yet, if the trade be to employ the
poor, we should have it bought without money, and brought to us from
beyond the seas where it is made as 'Bone lace.'"

[989] Swift. _Baucis and Philemon._

[990] _Intelligencer_, 1665, June 5. "Lost, six handkerchers wrapt up in a
brown paper, two laced, one point-laced set on tiffany; the two
laced ones had been worn, the other four new."

_London Gazette._ 1672, Dec. 5-9. "Lost, a lawn pocket handkercher
with a broad hem, laced round with a fine Point lace about four
fingers broad, marked with an R in red silk."

[991] Evelyn. It was the custom, at a Maiden Assize, to present the judge
with a pair of "laced gloves." Lord Campbell in 1856, at the Lincoln
Lent Assizes, received from the sheriff a pair of white gloves
richly trimmed with Brussels lace and embroidered, the city arms
embossed in frosted silver on the back.

[992] _London Gazette._ 1677, Jan. 28-31. Again, Oct. 4-8, in the same
year. "Stolen or lost out of the Petworth waggon, a deal box
directed to the Lady Young of Burton in Sussex; there was in it a
fine Point Apron, a suit of thin laced Night clothes," etc.

[993] _London Gazette._ 1675, June 14-17. "A right Point lace with a long
musling neck laced at the ends with a narrow Point about three
fingers broad, and a pair of Point cuffs of the same, worn foul and
never washt, was lost on Monday last."

_Ibid._ 1677, Oct. 22-25. "Found in a ditch, Four laced forehead
cloths. One laced Pinner, one laced Quoif, one pair of laced
ruffels.... Two point aprons and other laced linen."

_Intelligencer._ 1664, Oct. 3. "Lost, A needle work point without a
border, with a great part of the loups cut out, and a quarter of it
new loupt with the needle. £5 reward."

[994] _London Gazette._ 1677, Oct. 8-11.

[995] _Tyrannus, or the Mode._ 1661.

[996] It is written Colberteen, Colbertain, Golbertain, Colbertine.

[997] Colberteen, a lace resembling network, being of the manufacture of
M. Colbert, a French statesman.

[998] A writer in _Notes and Queries_ says: "I recollect this lace worn as
a ruffle fifty years ago. The ground was square and coarse, it had a
fine edge, with a round mesh, on which the pattern was woven. It was
an inferior lace and in every-day wear."