Chapter XXIII: Part 2: , 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in (8)

[999] _Cadenus and Vanessa._ See also Young, p. 111.

[1000] _Way of the World._

[1001] _Six Weeks in France._ 1691.

[1002] Gt. W. A. Car. II. 35-36 = 1683-4.

[1003] _Gazette_, July 20, 1682. Lost, a portmanteau full of women's
clothes, among which are enumerated "two pairs of Point d'Espagne
ruffles, a laced night rail and waistcoat, a pair of Point de Venise
ruffles, a black laced scarf," etc.--_Malcolm's Anecdotes of
London._

The lace of James II.'s cravats and ruffles are of point de Venise.

Sex prælant cravatts de lacinia Venetiarum, are charged £141, and 9
yards lace, for six more cravats, £45.

£36 10s. for the cravat of Venice lace to wear on the day of his
Coronation," etc.--G. W. A. Jac. II. 1685-6.

[1004] A writer in the _Gentleman's Magazine_, (October, 1745), mentions:
"In the parlour of the monastery of English Benedictines at Paris, I
was shown the mask of the king's face, taken off immediately after
he was dead, together with the fine laced nightcap he died in." The
cap at Dunkirk is trimmed with Flemish lace (old Mechlin). It must
have passed from Paris to the convent of English Benedictines at
Dunkirk, who left that city in 1793. There is no record how it
became deposited in the Museum.--Communicated by M. de Forçade,
Conservator of the Museu la Dunkirk.

[1005] 9 & 10 Will. III. = 1697-8.

[1006] 11 & 12 Will. III. = 1698-9.

[1007] Smith's _Wealth of Nations_.

[1008] See LOUIS XIV.

[1009] See LOUIS XIV.

[1010] _Spectator_, No. 129. 1711.

"Lost, from behind a Hackney coach, Lombard Street, a grounded lace
night rail."--_London Gazette._ Aug. 8, 1695.

"Lost, two loopt lace Pinners and a pair of double laced ruffles,
bundled up together."--_Ibid._ Jan. 6-10, 1697.

"Taken out of two boxes in Mr. Drouth's waggon ... six cards of
piece lace looped and purled, scolopt heads to most of them ... a
fine Flanders lace head and ruffles, groundwork set on a wier,"
etc.--_Ibid._ April 11-14, 1698.

"Furbelows are not confined to scarfs, but, they must have
furbelow'd gowns, and furbelow'd petticoats, and furbelow'd aprons;
and, as I have heard, furbelow'd smocks too."--_Pleasant Art of
Money-catching._ 1730.

[1011] B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.

[1012] "Bought of John Bishop & Jer. Peirie, att y^e Golden Ball, in
Ludgate Hill, 26 April, 1693:

"3 yards ½ of Rich silver rufl'd scollop lace falbala, with a Rich
broad silver Tire Orris at the head, at 7s. 3d. a yard, £25 0s. 6d.

"8 yards of broad scollopped thread lace, at 25s.

"3 yards Rich Paigning (?) Lace, 48s. 8d., £8 14s."

[1013] "9 ½ Fine purle to set on the pinner, at 3s."

[1014] "5 ¾ of fine broad cattgutt border, at 20_s_."

[1015] "1 yard 7/16 Raised Point to put on the top of a pair of sleeves, at
30s."

[1016] "8 yards of Broad Needlework Lace, at 30s."

[1017] "3 yards of lace to Mazzarine y^e pinners, at 25s."

Probably the same as the French "campanner."

[1018] The Milliner, in Shadwell's _Bury Fair_. 1720.

[1019] G. W. A. Will. III. 1688 to 1702. P. R. O.

[1020] _Ibid._ vii. & viii.

[1021] "I hope your Lordship is pleased with your Steinkerk."--Sir John
Vanbrugh. _The Relapse._

In Colley Cibber's _Careless Husband_, Lady Easy takes the Steinkirk
off her neck and lays it on Sir Charles's head when he is asleep.

In _Love's Last Shift_, by the same author (1695), the hero speaks
of being "Strangled in my own Steinkerk."

In _Love for Love_, by Congreve, Sir Novelty enumerates the
Steinkirk, the large button, with other fashions, as created by him.

"I have heard the Steinkirk arrived but two months
ago."--_Spectator_, No. 129.

The "modish spark" wears "a huge Steinkirk, twisted, to the
waist."--1694. _Prologue to First Part of Don Quixote._

Frank Osbaldeston, in _Rob Roy_, is deprived by the Highlanders of
his cravat, "a Steinkirke richly laced."

At Ham House was the portrait of a Countess of Dysart, temp. Anne,
in three-cornered cocked hat, long coat, flapped waistcoat, and
Mechlin Steinkirk.

In the Account Book of Isabella, Duchess of Grafton, daughter of
Lord Arlington, Evelyn's "sweet child"--her portrait hangs in Queen
Mary's Room, Hampton Court--we have: "1709. To a Stinkirk, £1 12s.
3d."

They appear to have been made of other stuffs than lace, for in the
same account, 1708, we have entered: "To a green Steenkirk, £1 1s.
6d."

[1022] _The Volunteers, or the Stock Jobbers._

[1023] "The Tombs in Westminster Abbey," sung by the Brothers Popplewell.
Broadside, 1775.--B. M. Roxburgh Coll.

[1024] King Charles II.'s lace is the same as that of Queen Mary. The
Duchess of Buckingham (the "mad" Duchess, daughter of James II.) has
also very fine raised lace.

[1025] Venice, Bib. St. Mark. Contarini Miscellany. Communicated by Mr.
Rawdon Brown.

[1026] _Weekly Journal._ March, 1717.

[1027] _The Modern Warrior._ 1756.

[1028] Acc. of Ralph, Earl of Montague, Master of the G. W., touching the
Funeral of William III. and Coronation of Queen Anne. P. R. O.

[1029] Statutes at large.--Anne 5 & 6.

[1030] This edict greatly injured the lace trade of France. In the _Atlas
Maritime et Commercial_ of 1727, it states: "I might mention several
other articles of French manufacture which, for want of a market in
England where their chief consumption was, are so much decayed and
in a manner quite sunk. I mean as to exportation, the English having
now set up the same among themselves, such as bone lace."

[1031] _History of Trade._ London, 1702.

[1032] "Pro 14 virgis lautæ Fimbr' Bruxell' laciniæ et 12 virgis dict'
laciniæ pro Reginæ persona, £151."--G. W. A. 1710-11.

[1033] _Letters of the Countess of Hartford to the Countess of Pomfret._
1740.

[1034] _Memoirs of Lady R. Russell._

"My high commode, my damask gown,
My laced shoes of Spanish leather."
--D'Urfey. _The Young Maid's Portion._

[1036] No. 98. 1711.

[1037] After fifteen years' discontinuance it shot up again. Swift, on
meeting the Duchess of Grafton, dining at Sir Thomas Hanmer's, thus
attired, declared she "looked like a mad woman."

[1038] Statutes at large.

[1039] In 1712 Mrs. Beale had stolen from her "a green silk knit waistcoat
with gold and silver flowers all over it, and about 14 yards of gold
and silver thick lace on it"; while another lady was robbed of a
scarlet cloth coat so overlaid with the same lace, it might have
been of any other colour.--_Malcolm's Anecdotes of the Manners and
Customs of London in the Eighteenth Century._

[1040] _Post Boy._ Nov. 15, 1709. Articles Lost.

[1041] _A Discourse on Trade_, by John Cary, merchant of Bristol. 1717.

Again: "What injury was done by the Act 9-10 Will. III. for the more
effectual preventing of importation of foreign bone lace, doth
sufficiently appear by the preamble to that made 10-12 of the same
reign for repealing it three months after the prohibition of our
woollen manufactures in Flanders (which was occasioned by it) should
be taken off; but I don't understand it be yet done, and it may
prove an inevitable loss to the nation."

[1042] _Lover._ No. 10. 1714.

[1043] The ornamental ribbons worn about the dress: "His dress has bows,
and fine fallals."--Evelyn. Sometimes the term appears applied to
the Fontanges or Commode. We read (1691) of "her three-storied
Fladdal."

[1044] _Tunbridge Wells._ 1727.

[1045] In _The Recruiting Officer_ (1781), Lucy the maid says: "Indeed,
Madam the last bribe I had from the Captain was only a small piece
of Flanders lace for a cap." Melinda answers: "Ay, Flanders lace is
a constant present from officers.... They every year bring over a
cargo of lace, to cheat the king of his duty and his subjects of
their honesty." Again, Silvio, in the bill of costs he sends in to
the widow Zelinda, at the termination of his unsuccessful suit,
makes a charge for "a piece of Flanders lace" to Mrs. Abigail, her
woman.--Addison, in _Guardian_, No. 17. 1713.

[1046] "In the next reign, George III. and Queen Charlotte often
condescended to become sponsors to the children of the aristocracy.
To one child their presence was fatal. In 1778 they 'stood' to the
infant daughter of the last Duke and Duchess of Chandos. Cornwallis,
Archbishop of Canterbury, officiated. The baby, overwhelmed by whole
mountains of lace, lay in a dead faint. Her mother was so tender on
the point of etiquette, that she would not let the little incident
trouble a ceremony at which a king and queen were about to endow her
child with the names of Georgiana Charlotte. As Cornwallis gave back
the infant to her nurse, he remarked that it was the quietest baby
he had ever held. Poor victim of ceremony! It was not quite dead,
but dying; in a few unconscious hours it calmly slept away."--"A
Gossip on Royal Christenings." _Cornhill Magazine._ April, 1864.

[1047] "Furniture of a Woman's Mind."

[1048] "Dean Swift to a Young Lady."

[1049] Cowley.

[1050] 1731. _Simile for the Ladies, alluding to the laces worn at the last
Birthday and not paid for._

"In Evening fair you may behold
The Clouds are fringed with borrowed gold,
And this is many a lady's case
Who flaunts about in borrowed lace."

[1051] Jenyns. "The Modern Fine Lady."

[1052] Crown. _Sir Courtly Nice, or It Cannot Be_, a Comedy. 1731.

[1053] "1748. Ruffles of twelve pounds a yard."--_Apology for Mrs. T. C.
Philips._ 1748.

Lace, however, might be had at a more reasonable rate:--

"'I have a fine lac'd suit of pinners,' says Mrs. Thomas, 'that was
my great-grandmother's! that has been worn but twice these forty
years, and my mother told me cost almost four pounds when it was
new, and reaches down hither.'"--"Miss Lucy in Town." Fielding.

[1054] _Dictionary of Commerce._ 1766.

[1055] He was a martinet about his own dress, for his biographer relates
during the last illness of Queen Caroline (1737), though the King
was "visibly affected," remembering he had to meet the foreign
ministers next day, he gave particular directions to his pages "to
see that new ruffles were sewn on his old shirt sleeves, whereby he
might wear a decent air in the eyes of the representatives of
foreign majesty."

[1056] "By a list of linen furnished to the Princesses Louisa and Mary, we
find their night-dresses were trimmed with lace at 10s. per yard,
and while their Royal Highnesses were in bibs, they had six suits of
broad lace for aprons at from £50 to £60 each suit."--_Corr. of the
Countess of Suffolk, Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Caroline._

Observe also the lace-trimmed aprons, ruffles, tuckers, etc., in the
pretty picture of the family of Frederick, Prince of Wales, at
Hampton Court Palace.

[1057] The laws regarding the introduction of lace during this reign
continued much the same until 1749, when the royal assent was given
to an Act preventing the importation or wear of gold, silver, and
thread lace manufactured in foreign parts.

[1058] In the meeting of Nov. 10, 1752, at the "Crown, behind the Royal
Exchange," the Hon. Edward Vernon, grand president, in the chair, it
was agreed that the following premiums should be awarded: "For the
best pair of men's needlework ruffles, to be produced to the
committee in the first week of May next, five guineas; to the
second, three guineas; to the third, two guineas. And for the best
pair of English bone lace for ladies' lappets, to be produced to the
committee in August next, fifteen guineas; to the second, ten
guineas; to the third, five guineas."--_Gentleman's Magazine._

[1059] "Cardinal," a loose cloak after the fashion of a cardinal's
"_trollopée_," a loose flowing gown open in the front, worn as a
morning dress.--Fairholt. "Slammerkin," a sort of loose dress. This
ugly word, in course of time, was used as an adjective, to signify
untidy. Fortunately it is now obsolete.

[1060] "Don't read history to me, for that I know to be false," said Sir R.
Walpole to his son Horace, when he offered to read to him in his
last illness.

[1061] Lady M. W. Montagu. "Letter to Lord Harvey on the King's Birthday."

"The working apron, too, from France,
With all its trim appurtenance."
--"Mundus Muliebris."

[1063] Goldsmith. _Life of Richard Nash, of Bath._ London, 1762.

[1064] 1764.

[1065] _Gentleman's Magazine._

[1066] 1767. "An officer of the customs seized nearly £400 worth of
Flanders lace, artfully concealed in the hollow of a ship's buoy, on
board a French trader, lying off Iron Gate."--_Annual Register._

1772. "27,000 ells of French (Blois?) lace were seized in the port
of Leigh alone."--_Gentleman's Magazine._

[1067] The turbulent Bishop of Rochester, who was arraigned for his
Jacobite intrigues, and died in exile at Paris. 1731.

[1068] If imported in smaller quantities than twelve yards, the duty
imposed was £2 per yard.

"Let the ruffle grace his hand,
Ruffle, pride of Gallic land."
--"The Beau." 1755.

"And dip your wristbands
(For cuffs you've none) as comely in the sauce
As any courtier."
--Beaumont and Fletcher.

[1071] He had retired to the country to be out of the way.

[1072] August, 1776.

[1073] The wardrobe of George IV. was estimated at the same sum.

[1074] Cowper.

[1075] 1757.

[1076] "Monsieur à la Mode." 1753.

"Let of ruffles many a row
Guard your elbows white as snow."
--"The Belle." 1755.

"Gone to a lady of distinction with a Brussels head and
ruffles."--_The Fool of Quality._ 1766.

[1078] "Receipt for Modern Dress." 1753.

[1079] _Recollections of Madame d'Arblay._

[1080] Beaumont and Fletcher. _The Knight of Malta._

[1081] In coffins with glass tops. Some of them date from 1700.

[1082] In the vault of the Schleswig-Holstein family at Sonderburg.

[1083] In the church of Revel lies the Duc de Croÿ, a general of Charles
XII., arrayed in full costume, with a rich flowing tie of fine
guipure; not that he was ever interred--his body had been seized by
his creditors for debt, and there it still remains.

The author of _Letters from a Lady in Russia_ (1775), describing the
funeral of a daughter of Prince Menzikoff, states she was dressed in
a nightgown of silver tissue, on her head a fine laced mob, and a
coronet; round her forehead a ribbon embroidered with her name and
age, etc.

[1084] Alluding to this custom of interring ladies of rank in full dress,
Madame de Sévigné writes to her daughter:--"Mon Dieu, ma chère
enfant, que vos femmes sont sottes, vivantes et mortes! Vous me
faites horreur de cette fontange; quelle profanation! cela sent le
paganisme, ho! cela me dégoûteroit bien de mourir en Provence; il
faudroit que du moins je fusse assuré qu'on ne m'iroit pas chercher
une coëffeuse en même temps qu'un plombier. Ah! vraiment! fi! ne
parlez plus de cela."--Lettre 627. Paris, 13 Déc, 1688.

[1085] Laborde. _Itin. de l'Espagne._ Again, the Duc de Luynes says: "The
Curé of St. Sulpice related to me the fashion in which the Duke of
Alva, who died in Paris in 1739, was by his own will interred. A
shirt of the finest Holland, trimmed with new point lace, the finest
to be had for money; a new coat of Vardez cloth, embroidered in
silver; a new wig; his cane on the right, his sword on the left of
his coffin."--_Mémoires._

[1086] That grave-clothes were lace-trimmed we infer from the following
strange announcement in the _London Gazette_ for August 12th to
15th, 1678: "Whereas decent and fashionable lace shifts and
Dressings for the dead, made of woollen, have been presented to his
Majesty by Amy Potter, widow (the first that put the making of such
things in practice), and his Majesty well liking the same, hath upon
her humble Petition, been graciously pleased to give her leave to
insert this advertisement, that it may be known she now wholly
applies herself in making both lace and plain of all sorts, at
reasonable prices, and lives in Crane Court in the Old Change, near
St. Paul's Church Yard." Again, in November of the same year, we
find another advertisement:--"His Majesty, to increase the woollen
manufacture and to encourage obedience to the late act for burying
in woollen, has granted to Amy Potter the sole privilege of making
all sorts of woollen laces for the decent burial of the dead or
otherwise, for fourteen years, being the first inventor thereof."

[1087] Betterton's _History of the English Stage_. Her kindness to the
poet Savage is well known.

[1088] This seems to have been a spécialité of Gibbons; for we find among
the treasures of Strawberry Hill: "A beautiful cravat, in imitation
of lace, carved by Gibbons, very masterly."--_Hist. and Antiquities
of Twickenham._ London, 1797.

[1089] Mrs. Piozzi's _Memoirs_.

[1090] A lady, who had very fine old lace, bequeathed her "wardrobe and
lace" to some young friends, who, going after her death to take
possession of their legacy, were surprised to find nothing but new
lace. On inquiring of the old faithful Scotch servant what had
become of the old needle points, she said: "Deed it's aw there,
'cept a wheen auld Dudds, black and ragged, I flinged on the fire."

Another collection of old lace met with an equally melancholy fate.
The maid, not liking to give it over to the legatees in its
coffee-coloured hue, sewed it carefully together, and put it in a
strong soap lye on the fire, to simmer all night. When she took it
out in the morning, it was reduced to a jelly! Medea's caldron had
not been more effectual!

[1091] Cowper. "The Winter Evening."

[1092] Bishop Berkeley, in _A Word to the Wise_, writes of the English
labourers in the South of England on a summer's evening "sitting
along the streets of the town or village, each at his own door, with
a cushion before him, making bone lace, and earning more in an
evening's pastime than an Irish family would in a whole day."

[1093] "Wells, bone lace and knitting stockings."--Anderson.

[1094] "Launceston, where are two schools for forty-eight children of both
sexes. The girls are taught to read, sew, and make bone lace, and
they are to have their earnings for encouragement."--_Magna
Britannia._ 1720.

Welsh lace was made at Swansea, Pont-Ardawe, Llanwrtyd, Dufynock,
and Brecon, but never of any beauty, some not unlike a coarse
Valenciennes. "It was much made and worn," said an aged Wesleyan
lady, "by our 'connexion,' and as a child I had all my frocks and
pinafores trimmed with it. It was made in the cottages; each
lace-maker had her own pattern, and carried it out for sale in the
country."

[1095] At what period, and by whom the lace manufactory of Ripon was
founded, we have been unable to ascertain. It was probably a relic
of conventual days, which, after having followed the fashion of each
time, has now gradually died out. In 1842 broad Trolly laces of
French design and fair workmanship were fabricated in the old
cathedral city; where, in the poorer localities near the Bond and
Blossomgate, young women might be seen working their intricate
patterns, with pillows, bobbins, and pins. In 1862 one old woman
alone, says our informant, sustains the memory of the craft, her
produce a lace of a small lozenge-shaped pattern (Fig. 132), that
earliest of all designs, and a narrow edging known in local parlance
by the name of "fourpenny spot."

[1096] Till its annexation to the Crown, the Isle of Man was the great
smuggling depôt for French laces. The traders then removed en masse
to the Channel Isles, there to carry on their traffic. An idiot
called "Peg the Ply" in Castletown (in 1842) was seen working at her
pillow on a summer's evening, the last lace-maker of the island.
Isle of Man lace was a simple Valenciennes edging.

[1097] Isle of Wight lace was honoured by the patronage of Queen Victoria.
The Princess Royal, reports the _Illustrated News_ of May, 1856, at
the drawing-room, on her first presentation, wore a dress of Newport
lace, her train trimmed with the same.

The weariness of incarceration, when at Carisbrook, did not bring on
Charles I. any distaste for rich apparel. Among the charges of 1648,
Sept. and Nov., we find a sum of nigh £800 for suits and cloaks of
black brocade tabby, black unshorn velvet, and black satin, all
lined with plush and trimmed with rich bone lace.

Some bobbin lace was made in the island, but what is known as "Isle
of Wight" resembles "Nottingham" lace. It is made in frames on
machine net, the pattern outlined with a run thread and filled in
with needle-point stitches. Queen Victoria had several lace tippets
made of Isle of Wight lace for the Royal children, and always chose
the Mechlin style of rose pattern. Now (1901) there are only two or
three old women workers left.

[1098] Lace-making was never the staple manufacture of the Channel Islands;
stockings and garments of knitted wool afforded a livelihood to the
natives. We have early mention of these articles in the inventories
of James V. of Scotland and of Mary Stuart. Also in those of Henry
VIII. and Queen Elizabeth, in which last we find (Gt. Ward. Acc., 28
& 29) the charge of 20s. for a pair of "Caligarum nexat' de factura
Garneseie," the upper part and "lez clocks" worked in silk. At the
beginning of the nineteenth century, when the island was inundated
with French refugees, lace-making was introduced with much success
into the Poor-House of St. Heliers. It formed the favourite
occupation of the ladies of the island, some of whom (1863) retain
the patterns and pillows of their mothers, just as they left them.
Of late years many of the old raised Venetian points have been
admirably imitated in "Jersey crochet work."

[1099] The Puritans again, on their part, transferred the fabric to the
other side of the Atlantic, where, says a writer of the eighteenth
century, "very much fine lace was made in Long Island by the
Protestant settlers."

[1100] See Chap. XXII.

[1101] The richly-laced corporax cloths and church linen are sent to be
washed by the "Lady Ancress," an ecclesiastical washerwoman, who is
paid by the churchwardens of St. Margaret's, Westminster, the sum of
8d.; this Lady Ancress, or Anchoress, being some worn-out nun, who,
since the dissolution of the religious houses, eked out an existence
by the art she had once practised within the convent.

[1102] In 1753 prizes were awarded for 14 pairs of curious needlework point
ruffles.

[1103] One society confers a prize of ten guineas upon a "gentlewoman for
an improvement in manufacture by finishing a piece of lace in a very
elegant manner with knitting-needles."

[1104] The lace of the three counties is practically equal--that is, it is
all made in a similar fashion, and the same patterns are met with in
each county. The "point" or "net" ground is met with in all, and
worked level with the pattern in the same way with bobbins.

[1105] Who fled from the Alva persecutions, and settled, first at Cranfield
in Bedfordshire, then at Buckingham, Stoney Stratford, and
Newport-Pagnel, whence the manufacture extended gradually over
Oxford, Northampton, and Cambridge. Many Flemish names are still to
be found in the villages of Bedfordshire.

[1106] Queen Katherine died 1536.

[1107] She retired to Ampthill early in 1531 while her appeal to Rome was
pending, and remained there till the summer of 1533.

[1108] Lace of the heavy Venetian point was already used for ecclesiastical
purposes, though scarcely in general use. The earliest known
pattern-books date from fifteen years previous to the death of
Katherine (1536).

[1109] Dr. Nicolas Harpsfield. Douay, 1622. (In Latin.)

Again we read that at Kimbolton "she plied her needle, drank her
potions, and told her beads."--_Duke of Manchester. Kimbolton
Papers._

[1110] A lady from Ampthill writes (1863): "The feast of St. Katherine is
no longer kept. In the palmy days of the trade both old and young
used to subscribe a sum of money and enjoy a good cup of Bohea and
cake, which they called 'Cattern' cake. After tea they danced and
made merry, and finished the evening with a supper of boiled stuffed
rabbits smothered with onion sauce." The custom of sending about
Cattern cakes was also observed at Kettering, in Northamptonshire.

[1111] _Tour through the whole Island of Great Britain_, by a Gentleman. 3
vols. 1724-27. Several subsequent editions of Defoe were published,
with additions, by Richardson the novelist in 1732, 1742, 1762,
1769, and 1778. The last is "brought down to the present time by a
gentleman of eminence in the literary world."

[1112] _Magna Britannia et Hibernia, or a New Survey of Great Britain,
collected and composed by an impartial hand_, by the Rev. Thos.
Owen. Lond. 1720-31.

[1113] State Papers Dom. Jac. I. Vol. 142. P. R. O.

[1114] Savary and Peuchet.

[1115] _Worthies._ Vol. i., p. 134.

[1116] _Magna Britannia_, Daniel and Samuel Lysons. 1806-22.

[1117] Describing the "lace and edgings" of the tradesman's wife, she has
"from Stoney Stratford the first, and Great Marlow the last."--_The
Complete English Tradesman_, Dan. Defoe. 1726.

[1118] Edition 1762.

[1119] In _Sheahan's History of Bucks_, published in 1862, the following
places are mentioned as being engaged in the industry:--"Bierton
(black and white lace), Cuddington, Haddenham, Great Hampden,
Wendover, Gawcott (black), Beachampton, Marsh Gibbon, Preston
Bisset, Claydon, Grendon, Dorton, Grandborough, Oving (black and
white), Waddesdon, Newport-Pagnell, Bletchley, Hopton, Great
Horwood, Bon Buckhill, Fenny Stratford, Hanslope (where 500 women
and children are employed--about one-third of the population),
Levendon, Great Sandford, Loughton, Melton Keynes, Moulsoe, Newton
Blossomville, Olney, Sherrington, and the adjoining villages, Stoke
Hammond, Wavendon, Great and Little Kimble, Wooleston, Aston Abbots,
Swanbourne, Winslow, Rodnage."

[1120] _The Voyage to Great Britain of Don Manuel Gonzales, late Merchant
of the City of Lisbon._--"Some say Defoe wrote this book himself; it
is evidently from the pen of an Englishman."--_Lowndes'
Bibliographers' Manual._ Bohn's Edition.

[1121] _Annual Register._

[1122] See _Britannia Depicta_, by John Owen, Gent. Lond. 1764, and others.

[1123] In 1785 there appears in the _Gentleman's Magazine_* "An essay on
the cause and prevention of deformity among the lace-makers of Bucks
and North Hants," suggesting improved ventilation and various other
remedies long since adopted by the lace-working population in all
countries.

* In 1761 appeared a previous paper, "to prevent the effects of
stooping and vitiated air," etc.

[1124] _Dict. of Commerce._

[1125] In Flanders also these glasses were made and used. The "mediæval
'ourinals' are alike the retorts of the alchemist and the
water-globes of the poor Flemish flax-thread spinners and lace
makers." _Old English Glasses._ A. Hartshorne.

[1126] The larger pins had heads put to them with seeds of _galium_ locally
called Hariffe or goose-grass; the seeds when fingered became hard
and polished.

[1127] Bobbins are usually made of bone, wood or ivory. English bobbins are
of bone or wood, and especially in the counties of Bedford, Bucks,
and Huntingdon, the set on a lace pillow formed a homely record of
their owner's life. The names of her family, dates and records,
births and marriages and mottoes, were carved, burnt, or stained on
the bobbin, while events of general interest were often commemorated
by the addition of a new bobbin. The _spangles_, _jingles_ (or
_gingles_) fastened to the end of the bobbin have a certain
interest; a waistcoat button and a few coral beads brought from
overseas, a family relic in the shape of an old copper seal, or an
ancient and battered coin--such things as these were often attached
to the ring of brass wire passed through a hole in the bobbin. The
inscriptions on the bobbins are sometimes burned and afterwards
stained, and sometimes "pegged" or traced in tiny leaden studs, and
consist of such mottoes as "Love me Truley" (_sic_), "Buy the Ring,"
"Osborne for Ever," "Queen Caroline," "Let no false Lover win my
heart," "To me, my dear, you may come near," "Lovely Betty," "Dear
Mother," and so forth.--R. E. Head. "Some notes on Lace-Bobbins."
_The Reliquary_, July, 1900.

[1128] Too much stress cannot be laid on the importance of using fine linen
thread. Many well-meant efforts are entirely ruined by the coarse
woolly cotton thread used for what ought to be a fine make of lace.
That good thread can be got in Great Britain is evident from the
fact that the Brussels dealers employ English thread, and sell it to
Venice for the exquisite work of Burano. Needless to say, no
Englishman has attempted to make a bid for the direct custom of the
8,000 lace-workers there employed.

[1129] Catalogue of lace (Victoria and Albert Museum).

[1130] _The Conversion and Experience of Mary Hurll', or Hurdle, of
Marlborough, a maker of bone lace in this town_, by the Rev. ----
Hughes, of that town.

[1131] Waylen's _History of Marlborough_.

[1132] "At Bland, on the Stour, between Salisbury and Dorchester, they made
the finest lace in England, valued at £30 per yard."--_Universal
Dict. of Trade and Commerce._ 1774.

[1133] "Much bone lace was made here, and the finest point in England,
equal, if not superior, to that of Flanders, and valued at £30 per
yard till the beginning of this century."--_Hutchins' Hist. of the
County of Dorset._ 2nd Edition, 1796.

[1134] What this celebrated point was we cannot ascertain. Two samplars
sent to us as Blandford point were of geometric pattern resembling
the samplar, Fig. 5.

[1135] In 1752.

[1136] Roberts' _Hist. of Lyme Regis_.

[1137] Burd, Genest, Raymunds, Brock, Couch, Gerard, Murck, Stocker,
Maynard, Trump, Groot, etc.

[1138] "We may rather infer that laces of silk and coarse thread were
already fabricated in Devonshire, as elsewhere; and that the
Flemings, on their arrival, having introduced the fine thread, then
spun almost exclusively in their own country, from that period the
trade of bone-lace-making flourished in the southern as well as in
the midland counties of England" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).

[1139] Ker's _Synopsis_, written about the year 1561. Two copies of this
MS. exist, one in the library of Lord Haldon at Haldon House (Co.
Devon), the other in the British Museum. This MS. was never printed,
but served as an authority for Westcote and others.

[1140] "She was a daughter of John Flay, Vicar of Buckrell, near Honiton,
who by will in 1614 bequeaths certain lands to Jerom Minify (_sic_),
son of Jerom Minify, of Burwash, Sussex, who married his only
daughter."--Prince's _Worthies of Devon_. 1701.

Up to a recent date the Honiton lace-makers were mostly of Flemish
origin. Mrs. Stocker, _ob._ 1769; Mr. J. Stocker, + 1788, and four
daughters; Mrs. Mary Stocker, + 179-; Mr. Gerard, + 1799, and
daughter; Mrs. Lydia Maynard (of Anti-Gallican celebrity), + 1786;
Mrs. Ann Brock, + 1815; Mrs. Elizabeth Humphrey, + 1790, whose
family had been in the lace manufacture 150 years and more. The
above list has been furnished to the author by Mrs. Frank Aberdein,
whose grandfather was for many years in the trade. Mrs. Treadwin, of
Exeter, found an old lace-worker using a lace "Turn" for winding
sticks, having the date 1678 rudely carved on the foot, showing how
the trade was continued in the same family from generation to
generation.

[1141] _View of Devon._ T. Westcote.

[1142] Her bequest is called "Minifie's Gift."

[1143] Here follows the numbers of the people in a few places who get their
living by making lace. Among those quoted in Devonshire as
interesting to compare with the present day are:--

"Coumbraligh 65, Sidmont 302, Axmouth 73, Sidbury 321, Buckerall 90,
Farway 70, Utpotery 118, Branscombe Beare and Seaton 326, Honyton
1341, Axminster 60, Otery St. Mary, 814."

[1144] Church Book of the Baptist Chapel of Lyme Regis.

[1145] Colyton and Ottery St. Mary were among the first. Wherever the say
or serge decayed, the lace trade planted itself.

In the church of Colyton, under a fine canopied tomb, repose back to
back in most unsociable fashion the recumbent figures of Sir John
and Lady Pole. "Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Roger How, merchant of
London, ob. 1623," wears a splendid cape of three rows of bone lace
descending to the waist. Her cap is trimmed with the same material.
As this lace may be of Devonshire fabric, we give a wood-cut of the
pattern (Fig. 150).

Sundry Flemish names may still be seen above the shop-windows of
Colyton similar to those of Honiton--Stocker, Murch, Spiller,
Rochett, Boatch, Kettel, Woram, and others.

[1146] Don Manuel Gonzales mentions "bone lace" among the commodities of
Devon.

[1147] The lace manufacture now extends along the coast from the small
watering-place of Seaton, by Beer, Branscombe, Salcombe, Sidmouth,
and Ollerton, to Exmouth, including the Vale of Honiton and the
towns above mentioned.

[1148] 1753.

[1149] _Complete System of Geography._ Emanuel Bowen, 1747.

This extract is repeated verbatim in _England's Gazetteer_, by
Philip Luckombe. London, 1790.

[1150] Died 1398.

[1151] The best _réseau_ was made by hand with the needle, and was much
more expensive.

[1152] Mrs. Aberdein, of Honiton, informed Mrs. Palliser that her father
often paid ninety-five guineas per lb. for the thread from Antwerp
(1869).

[1153] The manner of payment was somewhat Phoenician, reminding one of
Queen Dido and her bargain. The lace ground was spread out on the
counter, and the worker herself desired to cover it with shillings;
and as many coins as found place on her work she carried away as the
fruit of her labour. The author once calculated the cost, after this
fashion, of a small lace veil on real ground, said to be one of the
first ever fabricated. It was 12 inches wide and 30 inches long,
and, making allowance for the shrinking caused by washing, the value
amounted to £20, which proved to be exactly the sum originally paid
for the veil. The ground of this veil, though perfect in its
workmanship, is of a much wider mesh than was made in the last days
of the fabric. It was the property of Mrs. Chick.

[1154] "The last specimen of 'real' ground made in Devon was the marriage
veil of Mrs. Marwood Tucker. It was with the greatest difficulty
workers could be procured to make it. The price paid for the ground
alone was 30 guineas" (1869).

[1155] With the desire of combining the two interests, her Majesty ordered
it to be made on the Brussels (machine-made) ground.

[1156] _A_MARANTH, _D_APHNE, _E_GLANTINE, _L_ILAC, _A_URICULA, _I_VY,
_D_AHLIA, _E_GLANTINE.

[1157] The workers of Beer, Axmouth, and Branscombe, have always been
considered the best in the trade.

[1158] Exposition Universelle de 1867. Rapport du Jury International,
"Dentelles," par Felix Aubry.

[1159] For the encouragement of Agriculture, Arts, Manufactures, and
Commerce. The prizes were offered for the best Sprigs, Nosegays,
Borders for shawls, veils, or collars, Lappets, collars and cuffs,
Pocket-handkerchiefs, etc., "of good workmanship and design, worked
either in Flowers, Fruits, Leaves, or Insects, strictly designed
from nature." Three prizes were awarded for each description of
article. The Society also offered prizes for small application
sprigged veils, and for the best specimens of braidwork, in
imitation of Spanish point.

[1160] _Honiton Lace_, by Mrs. Treadwin. London, 1874. _Honiton
Lace-making_, by Devonia, London, 1874.

[1161] Lappets and scarfs were made of trolly lace from an early date. Mrs.
Delarey, in one of her letters, dated 1756, speaks of a "trolly
head." Trolly lace, before its downfall, has been sold at the
extravagant price of five guineas a yard.

[1162] "Fifty years since Devonshire workers still make a 'Greek' lace, as
they termed it, similar to the 'dentelles torchons' so common
through the Continent. The author has seen specimens of this fabric
in a lace-maker's old pattern-book, once the property of her mother"
(Mrs. Palliser, 1869).

[1163] Though no longer employed at lace-making, the boys in the schools at
Exmouth are instructed in crochet work (1869).

[1164] Of Otterton.

[1165] In Woodbury will be found a small colony of lace-makers who are
employed in making imitation Maltese or Greek lace, a fabric
introduced into Devon by order of her late Majesty the Queen Dowager
on her return from Malta. The workers copy these coarse geometric
laces with great facility and precision. Among the various cheap
articles to which the Devonshire workers have of late directed their
labours is the tape or braid lace, and the shops of the country are
now inundated with their productions in the form of collars and
cuffs (1869.)

[1166] The Honiton pillows are rather smaller than those for
Buckinghamshire lace, and do not have the multiplicity of starched
coverings--only three "pill cloths," one over the top, and another
on each side of the lace in progress; two pieces of horn called
"sliders" go between to take the weight of the bobbins from dragging
the stitches in progress; a small square pin-cushion is on one side,
and stuck into the pillow is the "needle-pin"--a large sewing needle
in a wooden handle, and for picking up loops through which the
bobbins are placed. The pillow has to be frequently turned round in
the course of the work, so that no stand is used, and it is rested
against a table or doorway; and formerly, in the golden days, in
fine weather there would be rows of workers sitting outside their
cottages resting their "pills" against the back of the chair in
front.

The bobbins used in Honiton lace-making are delicately-fashioned
slender things of smooth, close-grained wood, their length averaging
about three and a half inches. They have no "gingles," and none of
the carving and relief inlayings of the Buckinghamshire and
Bedfordshire bobbins; but some of them are curiously stained with a
brown pigment in an irregular pattern resembling the mottlings of
clouded bamboo or those of tortoise-shell.

[1167] "The author has visited many lace-schools in Devon, and though it
might be desired that some philanthropist would introduce the infant
school system of allowing the pupils to march and stretch their
limbs at the expiration of every hour, the children,
notwithstanding, looked ruddy as the apples in their native
orchards; and though the lace-worker may be less robust in
appearance than the farm-servant or the Cheshire milkmaid, her life
is more healthy far than the female operative in our northern
manufactories" (1875).

[1168] "A good lace-maker easily earns her shilling a day, but in most
parts of Devonshire the work is paid by the truck system, many of
the more respectable shops giving one-half in money, the remaining
sixpence to be taken out in tea or clothing, sold often considerably
above their value. Other manufacturers--to their shame, be it
told--pay their workers altogether in grocery, and should the
lace-maker, from illness or any other cause, require an advance in
cash, she is compelled to give work to the value of fourteen-pence
for every shilling she receives. Some few houses pay their workers
in money" (1875).

[1169] Medals were won at the Chicago World's Fair for Devonshire lace by
Mrs. Fowler and Miss Radford, of Sidmouth. The latter has also
received the freedom of the City of London for a beautiful lace fan,
her sprigs being the finest and most exquisite models of flowers and
birds it is possible to produce in lace. A third medal was won by
the Italian laces at Beer.

[1170] Those held at Sidbury and Sidford are very successful, and the
children, ranging in age from, nine to fifteen, come regularly for
their "lace." It is interesting to watch the improvement in the work
of the "flys," the first lesson, and as a rule each child makes
forty to fifty before going on to anything further.

[1171] At Beer, where fishing is the staple industry, in bad fish seasons
the women can earn more than the men; and at Honiton in the hard
winter of 1895 the lace-makers kept themselves and their families,
and were spared applying for relief--all honour to their skill and
self-helpfulness.

[1172] "1539. Ane uther gowne of purpour satyne with ane braid pasment of
gold and silver," etc.

"Twa Spanye cloikis of black freis with ane braid pasment of gold
and silver."

"1542. Three peces of braid pasmentes of gold and
silver."--_Inventories of the Royal Wardrobe and Jewel House._
1488-1606. Edinb. 1815.

[1173] 1542. Same Inv.

[1174] In the Inv. of the Earl of Huntley, 1511-12, there is mention of
dresses "passamenté d'or."

[1175] Chap. X., note.

1537. James V. and Lord Somerville at Holyrood:--"Where are all your
men and attendants, my Lord?"

"Please, your Majesty, they are here"--pointing to the lace which
was on his son and two pages' dress. The King laughed heartily and
surveyed the finery, and bade him "Away with it all, and let him
have his stout band of spears again."

[1176] Croft's _Excerpta Antiqua_.

The Countess of Mar, daughter of the first Duke of Lennox and
granddaughter by her mother's side to Marie Touchet. She was
daughter-in-law to the preceptress of James VI., and in 1593 had the
honour, at the baptism of Prince Henry, of lifting the child from
his bed and delivering him to the Duke of Lennox. A portrait of this
lady, in the high Elizabethan ruff, and with a "forepart" and tucker
of exquisite raised Venice point, hung (circ. 1870) in the
drawing-room of the late Miss Katherine Sinclair.

[1177] "Une robe de velours vert couverté de Broderies, gimpeures, et
cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même.

"Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent.

"Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure
d'or.

"Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc.

"Robe de weloux noyr semée de geynpeurs d'or."--_Inv. of
Lillebourg._ 1561.

[1178] "Chamarrée de bisette."--_Inv. of Lillebourg._ 1561.

"Ane rabbat of wolvin thread with passmentet with silver."

[1179] Chap. III.

[1180] See LACIS, Chap. II.

[1181] See NEEDLEWORK, Chap. I.

[1182] Her lace ruffs Mary appears to have had from France, as we may infer
from a letter written by Walsingham, at Paris, to Burleigh, when the
Queen was captive at Sheffield Castle, 1578: "I have of late granted
a passport to one that conveyeth a box of linen to the Queen of
Scots, who leaveth not this town for three or four days. I think
your Lordship shall see somewhat written on some of the linen
contained in the same, that shall be worth the reading. Her Majesty,
under colour of seeing the fashion of the _ruffes_, may cause the
several parcels of the linen to be held to the fire, whereby the
writing may appear; for I judge there will be some such matter
discovered, which was the cause why I did the more willingly grant
the passport."

[1183] In 1575.

[1184] There was some demur about receiving the nightcaps, for Elizabeth
declared "that great commotions had taken place in the Privy Council
because she had accepted the gifts of the Queen of Scots. They
therefore remained for some time in the hands of La Mothe, the
ambassador, but were finally accepted."--Miss Strickland.

[1185] "Inventaire of our Soveraine Lord and his dearest moder.
1578."--Record Office, Edinburgh.

[1186] _Records of Life_, by Miss H. Pigott. 1839.

[1187] Similar to the New Year's Gift of the Baroness Aletti to Queen
Elizabeth:--

"A veil of lawn cutwork flourished with silver and divers
colours."--Nichols' _Royal Progresses._

[1188] "Twa quaiffs ane of layn and uther of woving thread.

Ane quaiff of layn with twa cornettes sewitt with cuttit out werk of
gold and silver.

Twa pair of cornettes of layn sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold.

Ane wovin collar of thread passementit with incarnit and blew silk
and silver."--_Inv. of 1578._

[1189] "Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk and gold and cramoisie silk with the
handis (cuffs) thereof.

Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk of gold and black silk.

Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk with purpure silk with the handis of
the same."--_Ibid._

[1190] "Twa towell claiths of holane claith sewitt with cuttit out werk and
gold.

Four napkinnes of holane claith and cammaraye sewitt with cuttit out
werk of gold and silver and divers cullours of silk."--_Ibid._

[1191] Published by Prince Labanoff. "Recueil de Lettres de Marie Stuart."
T. vii., p. 247.

[1192] _Marriage Expenses of James VI._, 1589. Published by the Bannatyne
Club.

[1193] _Accounts of the Great Chamberlain of Scotland._ 1590.--Bannatyne
Club.

[1194] In 1581, 1597, and 1621.

[1195] The same privilege was extended to their wives, their eldest sons
with their wives, and their eldest daughters, but not to the younger
children.

[1196] 1633. In the _Account of Expenses for the young Lord of Lorne_, we
find:--

"2 ells Cambridg' at 8s. the ell for ruffles, 16s.

"2 ells of Perling at 30s., the uther at 33s. 4d., £3 3s.
4d."--Innes' _Sketches of Early Scotch History._

[1197] January, 1686.

[1198] "In 1701, when Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of
Kilravock, married, 'flounced muslin and lace for combing cloths,'
appear in her outfit."--Innes' _Sketches_.

[1199] In a pamphlet published 1702, entitled, _An Accompt carried between
England and Scotland_, alluding to the encouragement of the yarn
trade, the author says: "This great improvement can be attested by
the industry of many young gentlewomen that have little or no
portion, by spinning one pound of fine lint, and then breaking it
into fine flax and whitening it. One gentlewoman told me herself
that, by making an ounce or two of it into fine bone lace, it was
worth, or she got, twenty pounds Scots for that part of it; and
might, after same manner, five or eight pounds sterling out of a
pound of lint, that cost her not one shilling sterling. Now if a law
were made not to import any muslin (her Grace the Duchess of
Hamilton still wears our finest Scots muslin as a pattern to
others--she who may wear the finest apparel) and Holland lace, it
would induce and stir up many of all ranks to wear more fine 'Scots
lace,' which would encourage and give bread to many young
gentlewomen and help their fortunes." Then, among the products of
Scotland by which "we may balance any nation," the same writer
mentions "our white thread, and making laces."

"On Tuesday, the 16th inst., will begin the roup of several sorts of
merchants' goods, in the first story of the Turnpyke, above the head
of Bells Wynd, from 9 to 12 and 2 till 5. 'White thread
lace.'"--_Edinburgh Courant._ 1706.

[1200] See Chap. XXV., Queen Anne.

[1201] _Edinburgh Advertiser._ 1764.

[1202] 1745. The following description of Lady Lovat, wife of the rebel
Simon, is a charming picture of a Scotch gentlewoman of the last
century:--

"When at home her dress was a red silk gown with ruffled cuffs and
sleeves puckered like a man's shirt, a fly cap of lace encircling
her head, with a mob cap laid across it, falling down on the cheeks;
her hair dressed and powdered; a lace handkerchief round the neck
and bosom (termed by the Scotch a _Befong_)--a white apron edged
with lace.... Any one who saw her sitting on her chair, so neat,
fresh, and clean, would have taken her for a queen in wax-work
placed in a glass case."--_Heart of Midlothian._

Sir Walter Scott, whose descriptions are invariably drawn from
memory, in his _Chronicles of the Canongate_, describes the
dressing-room of Mrs. Bethune Balliol as exhibiting a superb mirror
framed in silver filigree-work, a beautiful toilet, the cover of
which was of Flanders lace.

[1203] _Heart of Midlothian._

[1204] _Statistical Account of Scotland._ Sir John Sinclair. Edinburgh,
1792. Vol. ii., 198.

[1205] _Edinburgh Amusement._

[1206] 1755. Premium £2 offered. "For the whitest, best, and finest lace,
commonly called Hamilton lace, and of the best pattern, not under
two yards in length and not under three inches in breadth."

[1207] The Edinburgh Society did not confine their rewards to Hamilton
lace; imitation of Dresden, catgut lace, gold, silver, and even
livery lace, each met with its due reward.

1758. For imitation of lace done on catgut, for ruffles, a gold
medal to Miss Anne Cant, Edinburgh.

For a piece of livery lace done to perfection to J. Bowie, 2
guineas.

To W. Bowie for a piece of gold and silver lace, 2 guineas.

[1208] 1769. Pennant, in his _Tour_, mentions among the manufactures of
Scotland thread laces at Leith, Hamilton and Dalkeith.

[1209] In 1762, Dec. 9, a schoolmistress in Dundee, among thirty-one
accomplishments in which she professes to instruct her pupils, such
as "waxwork, boning fowls without cutting the back," etc.,
enumerates, No. 21, "True point or tape lace," as well as "washing
Flanders lace and point."

Again, in 1764, Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell advertise in their
boarding-school "lacework and the washing of blonde laces; the
pupils' own laces washed and got up at home. Terms £24."

At Miss Glen's boarding-school in the Trunk Close, 1768, young
ladies are taught "white and coloured seam and washing of
lace"--gratis.

These lady-teachers were not appointed in Scotland without giving
due proofs of their capacity. In 1758 the magistrates and council of
Aberdeen, being unanimous as to the "strict morality, Dresden work,
modesty, and catgut lace-making," etc., of Miss Betsey Forbes,
elected her to the office of schoolmistress of the city.

In _The Cottagers of Glenburnie_ a lady, Mrs. Mason, tells a long
story of the young laird having torn a suit of lace she was busied
in getting up.

[1210] _Edinburgh Advertiser._

[1211] 1774. "Several punds of badly-spun yarn was burnt by the stamp
master in Montrose." This announcement constantly occurs.

[1212] About this period a Mr. Brotherton, of Leith, seems to have made a
discovery which was but a prelude to the bobbin net. It is thus
described in the _Weekly Magazine_ of 1772:--"A new invention has
lately been discovered by Mr. Brotherton, in Leith, for working
black silk lace or white thread lace on a loom, to imitate any
pattern whatever, and the lace done in this way looks fully as well
as if sewed, and comes much cheaper. It is done any breadth, from
three inches to three-quarters of a yard wide."

[1213] In 1775 Dallas, Barclay & Co., advertise a selling off of fine
point, Brussels thread, blond, and black laces of all kinds, silver
double edged lace, etc.--_Edinburgh Advertiser._

1775. "Black blonde and thread laces, catguts of all sorts, just
arrived from the India House in London in the
Canongate."--_Caledonian Mercury._

"Fashions for January; dresses trimmed with Brussels point or
Mignonette."--_Ibid._ Same year.

[1214] "Madame Puteau carries on a lace manufacture after the manner of
Mechlin and Brussels. She had lately twenty-two apprentices from the
Glasgow Hospital.... Mrs. Puteau has as much merit in this branch as
has her husband in the making of fine thread. This he manufactures
of such a fineness as to be valued at £10 the pound
weight."--_Essays on the Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, Fisheries,
etc., of Scotland._ David Loch. 1778.

[1215] "If you look at the wardrobes of your grandmother, you will perceive
what revolutions have happened in taste of mankind for laces and
other fineries of that sort. How many suits of this kind do you meet
with that cost amazing sums, which are now, and have long since
been, entirely useless. In our own day did we not see that in one
year Brussels laces are most in fashion and purchased at any price,
while the next perhaps they are entirely laid aside, and French or
other thread laces, or fine sewings, the names of which I know not,
highly prized."--_Observations on the National Industry of
Scotland._ Anderson. 1778.

[1216] Lace-making at Hamilton is now a thing of the past, replaced in the
nineteenth century by a tambour network for veils, scarfs and
flounces.

[1217] _Essay on the Dress of the Early Irish._ J. C. Walker. 1788.

[1218] _The Image of Irelande_, by Jhon Derricke. 1578.

[1219] In 1562. See Camden. _Hist. Eliz._

[1220] Henry VIII. 1537. Against Irish fashions. Not "to weare any shirt,
smock, kerchor, bendel, neckerchour, mocket, or linen cappe colored
or dyed with saffron," and not to use more than seven yards of linen
in their shirts or smocks.

[1221] 4 Edw. IV., Harl MSS. No. 1419. _b.-g._ 494.

[1222] That lace ruffs soon appeared in Ireland may be proved by the effigy
on a tomb still extant in the Abbey of Clonard, in which the Dillon
arms are conspicuous, and also by paintings of the St. Lawrence
family, _circ._ 1511, preserved at Howth Castle.

In the portrait at Muckruss of the Countess of Desmond she is
represented with a lace collar. It was taken, as stated at the back
of the portrait, "as she appeared at the court of King James, 1614,
and in y^e 140th year of her age." Thither she went to endeavour to
reverse the attainder of her house.

[1223] At the end of the last century there lived at Creaden, near
Waterford, a lady of the name of Power, lineal descendant of the
kings of Munster, and called the Queen of Creaden. She affected the
dress of the ancient Irish. The border of her coif was of the finest
Irish-made Brussels lace; her jacket of the finest brown cloth
trimmed with gold lace; her petticoat of the finest scarlet cloth
bordered with a row of broad gold lace; all her dress was of Irish
manufacture.

[1224] _Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack_, by G. Watson. Dublin, 1757.

[1225] "The freedom of the city of Dublin was also conferred upon her,
presented in due form in a silver box as a mark of esteem for her
great charities and constant care of the Foundling children in the
city workhouse."--_Dublin Freeman's Journal_, July 30th, 1765.

[1226] _Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack_, by Samuel Watson. 1773.

[1227] "The Lady Arabella Denny died 1792, aged 85; she was second daughter
of Thomas Fitzmaurice, Earl of Kerry. The Irish Academy, in
acknowledgment of her patriotic exertions, offered a prize of 100
guineas for the best monody on her death. It was gained by John
Macaulay, Esq."--_Dublin Freeman's Journal_, July 20th, 1766.