Chapter XXI: Part 2: , 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in (6)

[486] The wife of Trajan wore this coiffure, and her sister Marcina
Faustina, wife of Antoninus, much regretted the fashion when it went
out. Speaking of this head-dress, says a writer in the _Bibliothèque
Universelle_ of 1693, "On regarde quelque fois des certaines choses
comme tout à fait nouvelles, qui ne sont que des vieilles modes
renouvellées. L'auteur en appelle un exemple dans les coiffures
elevées que portent les femmes aujourd'hui, croyant ajouter par là
quelque chose à leur taille. Les dames Romaines avaient la même
ambition et mettaient des ajustemens de tête tout semblables aux
Commodes et aux Fontanges de ce temps. Juvenal en parle expressément
dans sa Satire VI."

[487] _Galerie de l'ancienne Cour._

[488] "1699. Oct. Le Vendredi 25, il y eut grande toilette chez Madame la
Duchesse de Bourgogne où les dames parurent, pour la première fois,
en coiffures d'une forme nouvelle, c'est à dire beaucoup plus
basses."--_Mercure Galant._

[489] "Corr. de la Duchesse d'Orléans, Princesse Palatine, mère du
Régent."

[490] Speaking of the Iron Mask, Voltaire writes:--"His greatest passion
was for linen of great fineness and for lace."--_Siècle de Louis
XIV._

[491] Fought by Marshal Luxembourg--vieux tapissier de Notre-Dame--against
William of Orange.

[492] Falbala--a deep single flounce of point or gold lace. The _Mercure
Galant_, 1698, describing the Duchess of Burgundy "à la promenade,"
states: "Elle avoit un habit gris de lin en falbala, tout garny de
dentelles d'argent."

"Femme de qualité en Steinkerke et Falbala."--Engraving of 1693.

[493] See ENGLAND.--WILLIAM III.

[494] Regnard.

[495] Dame du palais to Queen Marie Thérèse, and afterwards first lady of
honour to the Duchess of Burgundy. She died 1726.

[496] _Mercure Galant._ 1683.

Again, in 1688, he says: "Les points de Malines sont fort en regne
pour les manches qu'on nomme engageantes. Ou y met des points
très-hauts, fort plissés, avec des pieds."

"Ladies trimmed their _berthes_ and sleeves with lace; when the
sleeves were short they were called _engageantes_; when long,
_pagodes_. Upon skirts laces were worn _volantes_ or as flounces,
whence the name _volant_ or flounce, which has come into use for all
wide laces; these flouncings were draped either in _tournantes_ or
_quilles_, the former laid horizontally, the latter vertically upon
skirts; but in either case these were stitched down on each edge of
the lace, whereas flounces were fastened to dresses by the
_engrêlure_ or footing. Lace _barbes_ and _fontanges_ were used as
head-dresses."

They appear to have been soon introduced into England, for Evelyn,
in his _Mundus Muliebris_, 1690, says: "About her sleeves are
engageants;" and the _Ladies' Dictionary_ of nearly the same date
gives: "Ængageants, double ruffles that fall over the wrist."

In the lace bills of Queen Mary II., we find--

£ s. d.
"1694. 1¾ yd. Point for a
broad pair of Engageants,
at £5 10s. 9 12 6

3½ for a double pair of
ditto, at £5 10s. 19 5 0

1 pair of Point Engageants 30 0 0"

--(B. M., Add. MSS. No. 5751.)

"1720. Six pairs d'engageantes, dont quatre à un rang de dentelle,
et les autres paires à double rang, l'une de dentelle d'Angleterre à
raiseau et l'autre de dentelle à bride."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de
Bourbon._ Arch. Nat.

"1723. Une paire d'engageantes à deux rangs de point plat à
raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._

"1770. Six rangs d'engageantes de point à l'aiguille," with the same
of point d'Argentan and Angleterre, appear in the lace bills of
Madame du Barry.

[497] "1725. Deux manteaux de bain et deux chemises, aussi de bain, garnis
aux manches de dentelle, l'une à bride, et l'autre à
raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._

"1743. Ung Tour de baignoir de bazin garny de vieille dentelle.

"Trois linges de baignoire garnis de dentelle."--_Inv. de la
Duchesse de Bourbon._

[498] Describing the duties of the "critic of each bright ruelle," Tickell
says:--

"Oft with varied art, his thoughts digress
On deeper themes--the documents of dress;
With nice discernment, to each style of face
Adapt a ribbon, or suggest a lace;
O'er Granby's cap bid loftier feathers float,
And add new bows to Devon's petticoat."--_Wreath of Fashion._

[499] In the spring of 1802, Mr. Holcroft, when in Paris, received a
polite note from a lady at whose house he visited, requesting to see
him. He went, and was informed by her maid the lady was in her warm
bath, but she would announce his arrival. She returned, and led him
to a kind of closet, where her mistress was up to her chin in water.
He knew the manners of the place, and was not surprised.--_Travels._

[500] Mercier also mentions, in his _Tableau de Paris_, la poupée de la
rue Saint-Honoré: "C'est de Paris que les profondes inventions en
modes donnent des loix à l'univers. La fameuse poupée, le mannequin
precieux, affublé des modes les plus nouvelles ... passe de Paris à
Londres tous les mois, et va de là répandre ses graces dans toute
l'Europe. Il va au Nord et du Midi, il pénètre à Constantinople et à
Petersbourg, et le pli qu'a donné une main françoise se répète chez
toute les nations, humbles observatrices du goût de la rue
Saint-Honoré."

[501] The practice was much more ancient. M. Ladomie asserts that in the
Royal expenses for 1391, figure so many livres for a doll sent to
the Queen of England; in 1496 another, sent to the Queen of Spain;
and in 1571 a third, to the Duchess of Bavaria.

Henry IV. writes in 1600, before his marriage to Marie de Médicis:
"Frontenac tells me that you desire patterns of our fashion in
dress. I send you, therefore, some model dolls."--Miss Freer's
_Henry IV._

It was also the custom of Venice, at the annual fair held in the
Piazza of St. Mark, on the day of the Ascension (a fair which dates
from 1180), to expose in the most conspicuous place of the fair a
rag doll, which served as a model for the fashions for the
year.--Michiel, _Origine delle Feste Veneziani._

[502] _Tableau de Paris._ 1782.

[503] "The French nation are eminent for making a fine outside, when
perhaps they want necessaries, and indeed a gay shop and a mean
stock is like the Frenchman with his laced ruffles without a
shirt."--_The Complete English Tradesman._ Dan. Defoe. Lond., 1726.
Foote, in his Prologue to the _Trip to Paris_, says, "They sold me
some ruffles, and I found the shirts."

[504] _Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy._ 1710-1802.

[505] Clement X. was in the habit of making presents of Italian lace, at
that time much prized in France, to M. de Sabière. "He sends
ruffles," said the irritated Frenchman who looked for something more
tangible, "to a man who never has a shirt."

[506] "M. de Vendôme, at his marriage, was quite astonished at putting on
his clean shirt a-day, and fearfully embarrassed at having some
point lace on the one given him to put on at night. Indeed,"
continues she, "you would hardly recognise the taste of the French.
The men are worse than the women. They wish their wives to take
snuff, play, and pay no more attention to their dress." The
exquisite cleanliness of Anne of Austria's court was at an end.

[507] In the old Scotch song of Gilderoy, the famous highwayman, we have
an instance:--

"For Gilderoy, that luve of mine,
Gude faith, I freely bought
A wedding sark of Holland fine,
Wi' silken flowers wrought."

And in an account quoted in the _Reliquary_, July, 1865, is the
charge on Feb. 16, of "six shillings for a cravat for hur
Vallentine."

[508] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. C. de Saint-Albin, Archevesque de
Cambray._ (Son of the Regent.) 1764. Arch. Nat. M. M. 718.

Louis XVI. had 59 pairs the year before his death: 28 of point, 21
of Valenciennes, and 10 of Angleterre.--_Etat des Effets subsistant
et formant le fond de la garderobe du Roi au 1^{er} Janvier, 1792._
Arch. Nat. K. 506, No. 30.

[509] _Etat d'un Trousseau._ Description des Arts et Métiers. Paris, 1777.

[510] "Deux aunes trois quarts d'Angleterre à bride pour deux paires de
manchettes tournantes, à 45 livres l'aune."--_Garderobe de S. A. S.
Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre._ 1738. Arch. Nat. K. K. 390.

[511] _Ibid._ The laces for ruffles were of various kinds: point brodé,
point à bride, point à raiseau, point à bride à écaille, point
superfin, point brillant, Angleterre à bride à raiseau, and one pair
of point d'Argentan; Valenciennes pour manchettes de nuit à 42
livres l'aune.

The Duke's wardrobe accounts afford a good specimen of the
extravagance in the decoration of night attire at this period:--

4 au. de point pour collet
et manchettes de la
chemise de nuit et garnir
la coëffe, à 130 ll. 520 ll.

3 au. ¾ dito pour jabot et
fourchettes de nuit et
garnir le devant de la
camisole, à 66 ll. 247 ll. 10s.

Sept douze de point pour
plaquer sur les manches
de camisolle, à
55 ll. 32 ll. 1s.

Then for his nightcaps:--

3 au. Toile fine pour
Coëffes de Nuit 27 ll.

4 au. Dentelles de Malines
pour les tours de
Coëffes, à 20 ll. 80 ll.

5 au. ½ Valenciennes, à
46 ll. 253 ll.

52 au. dito petit point,
pour garnir les Tours,
à 5 ll. 5s. 273 ll.

Pour avoir monté un bonnet
de nuit de point 1 l. 5s.

7 au. de campanne de
point pour chamarrer
la camisolle et le bonnet
de nuit, à 10 ll. 10s. 73 ll. 10s.

The Marquise de Créquy speaks of a night-cap, "à grandes dentelles,"
offered, with la robe de chambre, to the Dauphin, son of Louis XV.,
by the people of the Duke de Grammont, on his having lost his way
hunting, and wandered to the Duke's château.

[512] "Le Parisien qui n'a pas dix mille livres de rente n'a ordinairement
ni draps, ni lit, ni serviettes, ni chemises; mais il a une montre à
repetition, des glaces, des bas de soie, des dentelles."--_Tableau
de Paris._

[513] _Histoire de Paris._

[514] "Ordinairement un laquais de bon ton prend le nom de son maître,
quand il est avec d'autres laquais, il prend aussi ses moeurs, ses
gestes, ses manières.... Le laquais d'un seigneur porte la montre
d'or ciselée, des dentelles, des boucles à brillants,"
etc.--_Tableau de Paris._

[515] _Amusemens des Eaux de Spa._ Amsterdam, 1751.

"Les manches qu'à table on voit tâter la sauce."--_École des maris._

[516] The state liveries of Queen Victoria were most richly embroidered in
gold. They were made in the early part of George II.'s reign, since
which time they have been in use. In the year 1848, the servants
appeared at the royal balls in gold and ruffles of the richest gros
point de France, of the same epoch as their dresses. In 1849, the
lace no longer appeared--probably suppressed by order. Queen Anne,
who was a great martinet in trifles, had her servants marshalled
before her every day, that she might see if their ruffles were clean
and their periwigs dressed.

[517] _Tableau de Paris._

[518] _Mémoires._

[519] "1723. Un couvrepied de toile blanche, picqure de Marseille, garni
autour d'un point en campane de demie aune de hauteur."--_Inv. d'A.
de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._

"1743. Un couvrepied de toile picquée, brodée or et soye, bordé de
trois côtés d'une grande dentelle d'Angleterre et du quatrième d'un
moyen dentelle d'Angleterre à bords.

"Un autre, garni d'une grande et moyenne dentelle de point
d'Alençon.

"Un autre, garni d'un grand point de demie aune de hauteur, brodé,
garni d'une campane en bas.

"Un autre, 'point à bride,'" and many others.--_Inv. de la Duchesse
de Bourbon._

[520] "1704. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de dentelle, l'une à raiseau,
et l'autre à bride."--_Inv. de F. P. Loisel._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr.
11,459.

"1723. Quatre taies d'oreiller, dont trois garnies de differentes
dentelles, et l'autre de Point."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse
de Condé._

"1755. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de point d'Alençon."--_Inv. de
Mademoiselle de Charollais._

"1761. Trois taies d'oreiller de dentelle de point à brides."--_Inv.
de la Duchesse de Modène._

"1770. 7 au. 1/8 vraie Valenciennes pour garnir une taie d'oreiller,
à 60 ll. 427 10."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._

"1707. 7 au. tournante d'Angleterre pour garnir des plottes
(pincushions) à 50 350 00."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._

"1788. 12 Pelottes garnies de dentelle."--_Ibid._

"6 trousses à peigne garnies de dentelle."--_Fourni pour Mgr. le
Dauphin._ Arch. Nat.

"1792. 6 Pelottes garnies de dentelle."--_Linge du çi-devant Roi.
Ibid._

[521] Souvenirs.

[522] _Mémoires du Due de Luynes._

[523] 1786. _Courts of Europe._

[524] It may be amusing to the reader to learn the laces necessary for
l'État d'un Trousseau, in 1777, as given in the _Description des
Arts de Métiers_: "Une toilette de ville en dentelle; 2 jupons
garnis du même. Une coiffure avec tour de gorge, et le fichu plissé
de point d'Alençon. Un idem de point d'Angleterre. 1 id. de vraie
Valenciennes. Une coiffure dite 'Battant d'oeil' de Malines brodée,
pour le negligé. 6 fichus simples en mousseline à mille fleurs
garnis de dentelle pour le negligé. 12 grands bonnets garnis d'une
petite dentelle pour la nuit. 12 à deux rangs, plus beaux, pour le
jour, en cas d'indisposition. 12 serres-tête garnis d'une petite
dentelle pour la nuit. 2 taies d'oreiller garnies en dentelle. 12
pièces d'estomach garnies d'une petite dentelle. 6 garnitures de
corset. 12 tours de gorge. 12 paires ce manchettes en dentelle. Une
toilette; les volants, au nombre de deux, sont en dentelle; ils ont
5 aunes de tour. Dessus de pelotte, en toile garnie de dentelle,
etc. La Layette: 6 paires de manches pour la mère, garnies de
dentelle. 24 bonnets ronds de 3 ages en dentelle. 12 bavoirs de deux
ages, garnis en dentelle." The layette was furnished together with
the trousseau, because, says a fabricant, "les enfans se font plus
vite que les points."

[525] "1787. Pour achat de 11 au. blonde noire, à 6 10 71 livres 10
sous."--_Comptes de Monsieur Hergosse._

Bib. Nat. MSS., F. Fr. 11,447.

[526] When the Empress Joséphine was at Frankfort-on-the-Maine, a masked
ball was given on the occasion. The ladies, says Mademoiselle
Avrillion, wore short dominoes with their faces covered with a mask,
"le tour des yeux garni d'une petite dentelle noire."--_Mém. de
Mademoiselle Avrillion, première femme de chambre de l'Impératrice._
Paris, 1833.

[527] A few extracts from Madame du Barry's lace accounts will furnish an
idea of her consumption of point d'Angleterre:--

Une toilette d'Angleterre
complette de 8823 livres.

Une parure composée de
deux barbes, rayon et
fond, 6 rangs de manchettes,
1 ½ au. de
ruban fait exprès, 1/3
jabot pour le devant
de tour. Le tout d'Angleterre
superfin de 7000 ----

Un ajustemente d'Angleterre
complet de 3216 ----

Une garniture de peignoir
d'Angleterre de 2342 livres.

Une garniture de fichu
d'Angleterre 388 ----

8 au. d'Angleterre
pour tayes d'oreiller 240

9 ½ au. dito pour
la tête 76

14 au. pied dito pour
la tête 140

---- 456 livres.

[528] "Les dentelles les plus précieuses pour chaque saison."--(Duchesse
d'Abrantès.)

[529] _Mémoires._

[530] _Mém. de la Princesse Palatine, veuve de Monsieur._

[531] "Cuisinières et Tourières." The joke formed the subject of some
clever verses from the Chevalier de Boufflers.

[532] _Marli_, which takes its name from the village between Versailles
and St. Germain, is tulle dotted with small square spots. See page
225.

[533] The _barbe_, or lappet, of whatever form it be, has always, in all
ages and all countries, been a subject of etiquette. At the
interment of Queen Mary Tudor, December 14th, 1558, it is told how
the ladies in the first and second chariots were clad in mourning
apparel, according to their estates, "their barbes above their
chynes." "The 4 ladies on horseback in like manner had their barbes
on their chynes." In the third chariot, "the ladies had their barbes
under their chynes."--State Papers, Domestic, Eliz., vol. 32.

See also the curious extract from Madame de Campan's _Mémoires_:--

"Madame de Noailles était remplie de vertus; mais l'etiquette était
pour elle une sorte d'atmosphère. Un jour je mis, sans le vouloir,
cette pauvre dame dans une angoisse terrible; la reine recevait je
ne sais plus qui. Tout était bien, au moins je le croyais. Je vois
tout-à-coup les yeux de Madame de Noailles attachés sur les miens,
et puis ses deux sourcils se levent jusqu'au haut de son front,
redescendent, remontent. L'agitation de la Comtesse croissait
toujours. La reine s'aperçut de tout ceci ... et me dit alors à
mi-voix: 'Detachez vos barbes, où la comtesse en mourra.'
L'etiquette du costume disait: 'Barbes pendentes.'"

[534] Only in her last lace bill, 1773:

"Une paire de barbes plattes longues de ¾ en blonde fine à fleurs
fond d'Alençon, 36.

"Une blonde grande hauteur à bouquets détachés et à bordure riche.

"6 au. de blonde de grande hauteur façon d'Alençon à coquilles à
mille poix, à 18.

"Une paire de sabots de comtesse de deux rangs de tulle blonde à
festons, fond d'Alençon."--_Comptes de la Comtesse du Barry._ Bib.
Nat. F. Fr. 8157.

Madame du Barry went to the greatest extravagance in lace
ajustements, barbes, collerettes, volants, quilles, coëffes, etc.,
of Argentan, Angleterre, and point à l'aiguille.

[535] The great fashion. The shoes were embroidered in diamonds, which
were scarcely worn on other parts of the dress. The back seam,
trimmed with emeralds, was called "venez-y-voir."

[536] _Souvenirs du Marquis de Valfons_, 1710-1786. A "chat," tippet or
Palatine, so named after the mother of the Regent.

[537] In the National Archives, formerly preserved with the _Livre Rouge_
in the Armorie de Fer, is the _Gazette pour l'année_, 1782, of Marie
Antoinette, consisting of a list of the dresses furnished for the
Queen during the year, drawn up by the Comtesse d'Ossune, her dame
des atours. We find--grands habits, robes sur le grand panier, robes
sur le petit panier, with a pattern of the material affixed to each
entry, and the name of the couturière who made the dress. One
"Lévite" alone appears trimmed with blonde. There is also the
_Gazette_ of Madame Elizabeth, for 1792.

[538] _Mémoires sur la Cour de Louis XVI._

[539] Among these were Sedan, Charleville, Mézières, Dieppe, Havre,
Pont-l'Évêque, Honfleur, Eu, and more than ten neighbouring
villages. The points of Aurillac, Bourgogne, and Murat disappeared;
and worst of all was the loss of the manufacture of Valenciennes.
Laces were also made in Champagne, at Troyes and Domchéry, etc.

[540] 1649. Anne Gohory leaves all her personals to Madame de Sévigné
except her "plus beau mouchoir, le col de point fin de Flandres, et
une juppe de satin à fleurs fond vert, garnye de point fin d'or et
de soie."

1764. Geneviève Laval bequeaths to her sister "une garniture de
dentelle de raiseau à grandes dents, valant au moins quinze livres
l'aune."--Arch. de Nat. Y. 58.

1764. Anne Challus leaves her "belle garniture de dentelle en plein,
manchettes, tour de gorge, palatine et fond."--_Ibid_.

1764. Madame de Pompadour, in her will, says, "Je donne à mes deux
femmes de chambre tout ce qui concerne ma garderobe ... y compris
les dentelles."

[541] _Mém. de Mademoiselle d'Avrillion_.

[542] _Mémoires sur la Restauration_, par Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès.

[543] _Ibid._ T. v., p. 48.

[544] After the Peace of Amiens, 1801.

[545] _Mémoires de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès._

[546] The revival first appeared in the towns which made the cheaper
laces: Caen, Bayeux, Mirecourt, Le Puy, Arras, etc.

[547] "Fil de mulquinerie."

[548] The name _point Colbert_, adopted in memory of the great Minister,
is applied to point laces in high relief.

"La brode a toujours existé dans le point d'Alençon, aussi que dans
le point de Venise, seulement dans le point d'Alençon les reliefs
étaient moins énlevés. On ne mettait pas seulement un fil, mais
trois, cinq, huit ou dix fils, suivant l'épaisseur du relief que
l'on voulait obtenir puis, sur ce bourrage, se faisaient des points
bouclés très serrés de façon que la boucle fut presque sous les fils
formant le relief. C'est ce point que certains fabricants nomment
point Colbert."--Madame Despierres, _Histoire du Point
d'Alençon_.--Page 228, _post_.

[549] In 1673, July, we read in the _Mercure_:--"On fait aussi des
dentelles à grandes brides, comme aux points de fil sans raiseau, et
des dentelles d'Espagne avec des brides claires sans picots; et l'on
fait aux nouveaux points de France des brides qui en sont remplies
d'un nombre infini."

[550] _Mémoire concernant le Généralité d'Alençon_, dressé par M. de
Pommereu. 1698. Bib. Nat. MSS. Fonds Mortemart, No. 89.

[551] Vilain, velin, vellum, from the parchment or vellum upon which it is
made.

"La manufacture des points de France, appelés dans le pays
velin."--Savary, Vol. I., p. 108.

"The expression is still used. When the author inquired at Alençon
the way to the house of Mr. R., a lace manufacturer, she was asked
in return if it was 'Celui qui fait le velin?'"--Mrs. Palliser.

[552] In 1788 Arthur Young states the number of lace-makers at and about
Alençon to be from 8,000 to 9,000."--_Travels in France._

Madame Despierres, however, states that only 500 or 600 lace-workers
left Alençon on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, _as there
were not 4,000 lace-workers then in the town_.

[553] He deducts 150,000 livres for the raw material, the Lille thread,
which was used at prices ranging from 60 to 1,600 livres per pound;
from 800 to 900 livres for good fine point; but Lille at that time
fabricated thread as high as 1,800 livres per pound.

[554] In 1705 there were ten processes:--(1) Le dessin; (2) le picage; (3)
la trace; (4) les fonds; (5) la dentelure ou bride à picots; (6) la
brode; (7) l'enlevage; (8) l'éboulage; (9) le régalage; (10)
l'assemblage.

Mrs. Palliser gives eighteen processes, and states that this number
is now reduced to twelve. The workwomen were:--(1) The piqueuse; (2)
traceuse; (3) réseleuse; (4) remplisseuse; (5) fondeuse; (6)
modeuse; (7) brodeuse; (8) ébouleuse; (9) régaleuse; (10)
assembleuse; (11) toucheuse; (12) brideuse; (13) boucleuse; (14)
gazeuse; (15) mignonneuse; (16) picoteuse; (17) affineuse; (18)
affiquese.

[555] "The origin of this name Argentella is obscure, but it was presumed
to imply that the lace was worked in Genoa or Venice. There is,
however, no evidence of this type of lace being made there. Another
theory is that Argentella is an Italianised title for the more
delicate examples of point d'Argentan. The character of the lace and
the style of the floral patterns worked upon mesh grounds are those
of Alençon laces." In Specimen 1,373-74 in the Victoria and Albert
Museum collection the cordonnet is done in buttonhole stitches
closely cast over a thread which outlines various forms in the
design--a distinctive mark of point d'Alençon. And the hexagonal
wheel device in this example is often to be seen introduced into
flounces of point d'Alençon, of which other portions are composed of
the ordinary Alençon ground or réseau.--A. S. Cole. Fig. 88 and
Plate LVII.

[556] _Dictionnaire du Citoyen_, Paris, 1761.

[557] Madame Despierres writes on this head that entries of point
d'Alençon occur as early as 1663:--

"1663, 9 juin--contrat entre Georges Rouillon, Greffier, et Marie
Leroy....

"1900 liv. gagnées par son industrie à faire des ouvrages de point
d'Alençon."

[558] _Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine, Princesse de Condé_. See chap. x.
note 468.

[559] In the Inventory of the Duc de Penthièvre, 1738. See chap. xi.

[560] "Une coiffure de point d'Alençon à raiseau."--_Inv. de decès de
Mademoiselle de Clermont_, 1741. Again, 1743, _Inv. de la Duchesse
de Bourbon_. Bib. Nat.

[561] Among the objects of religious art exhibited in 1864 at the General
Assembly of the Catholics of Belgium at Malines was a "voile de
bénédiction," the handkerchief used to cover the ciborium, of point
d'Alençon, with figures of the Virgin, St. Catherine, St. Ursula,
and St. Barbara. It belonged to the Church of St. Christopher at
Charleroi.

[562] Séez has now no records of its manufacture.

[563] _Descr. du Dép. de l'Orne_. An IX. Publiée par ordre du ministre de
l'intérieur.

[564] _Illustrated News_, March 22, 1856.

[565] It only requires to compare Figs. 74, 75, 76, and 80, with Figs. 82
and 83 to see the marked difference in the character of the lace.

[566] "Sous Louis XIV. il y avaient de magnifiques rinceaux, guirlandes,
et cornes d'abondance d'où s'échappent de superbes fleurs. Sous
Louis XV. les fabricants changèrent encore leurs dessins pour
prendre les fleurs qui s'épanouent et s'ensoulent capricieusement
les unes aux autres.

"Le style de Louis XVI. n'a rien de l'ampleur ni de l'élégance des
styles précédents. Les formes sont arrondies; des guirlandes et des
fleurettes sont la base des dessins de cette époque.

"Sous la république et le premier empire, les dessins deviennent
raides" (Madame Despierres.)

[567] This effect is produced by varying the application of the two
stitches used in making the flowers, the _toilé_, which forms the
close tissue, and the _grillé_, the more open part of the pattern.
The system has been adopted in France, Belgium, and England, but
with most success in France.

"Li boen citean de Roem,
E la Jovante de Caem,
E de Falaise e d'Argentoen."
--_Roman de Rou._

[569] Henry founded a chapel at Argentan to St. Thomas of Canterbury.

[570] "The average size of a diagonal, taken from angle to angle, in an
Alençon or so-called Argentan hexagon was about 1/6 of an inch, and
each side of the hexagon was about 1/10 of an inch. An idea of the
minuteness of the work can be formed from the fact that a side of a
hexagon would be overcast with some nine or ten buttonhole stitches"
(A. S. Cole). "So little is the beautiful workmanship of this ground
known or understood, that the author has seen priceless flowers of
Argentan relentlessly cut out and transferred to bobbin net, 'to get
rid of the ugly, old, coarse ground'" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).

[571] "Les trois sortes de brides comme champ sont exécutées dans ces deux
fabriques, et les points ont été et sont encore faits par les mêmes
procédés de fabrication, et avec les mêmes matières textiles,"
writes Madame Despierres. Mrs. Palliser, on the other hand, was of
opinion that the two manufactures were distinct, "though some
lace-makers near Lignères-la-Doucelle worked for both
establishments. Alençon made the finest réseau; Argentan specially
excelled in the bride. The flowers of Argentan were bolder and
larger in pattern, in higher relief, heavier and coarser than those
of Alençon. The toilé was flatter and more compact. The workmanship
differed in character. On the clear bride ground this lace was more
effective than the minuter workmanship of Alençon; it more resembled
the Venetian. Indeed, so close is its resemblance that many of the
fine garnitures de robe, aprons, and tunics that have survived the
revolutionary storm would be assigned to Venice, did not their
pedigree prove them to be of the Argentan fabric" (Mrs. Palliser,
1869).

[572] Letter of September 19th, 1744.

[573] "Burgoigne, the first part of the dress for the head next the
hair."--_Mundus Muliebris._ 1609. "Burgoigin, the part of the
head-dress that covers up the head."--_Ladies' Dictionary._ 1694. In
Farquhar's comedy of "Sir Harry Wildair," 1700, Parley, when asked
what he had been about, answers, "Sir, I was coming to Mademoiselle
Furbelow, the French milliner, for a new Burgundy for my lady's
head."

[574] The offenders, manufacturers and workwomen, incurred considerable
fines.

[575] Nov. 12th, 1745.

[576] In 1765, under the name of Duponchel.

[577] 1772. Un ajustement de point d'Argentan--

Les 6 rangs manchettes.
1/3 pour devant de gorge.
4 au. 1/3 festonné des
deux costés, le fichu et
une garniture de fichu
de nuit 2,500 livres.
1 au ¾ ruban de point
d'Argentan, à 100 175 ----
Une collerette de point
d'Argentan 360 ----
--(_Comptes de Madame du Barry._)

1781. "Une nappe d'autel garnie d'une tres belle dentelle de point
d'Argentan."--_Inv. de l'Eglise de St. Gervais._ Arch. Nat. L. 654.

1789. "Item, un parement de robe consistant en garniture, deux
paires de manchettes, et fichu, le tout de point d'Argentan." (Dans
la garderobe de Madame.)--_Inv. de decès de Mgr. de Duc de Duras._
Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,440.

[578] "Une coiffure bride à picot complete."--_Inv. de decès de
Mademoiselle de Clermont_, 1741.

[579] These details on the manufacture of Argentan have been furnished
from the archives of Alençon through the kindness of M. Léon de la
Sicotière, the learned archæologist of the Department of the Orne
(Mrs. Palliser, 1869).

[580] Embroidery has replaced this industry among the workers of the town
and the hand-spinning of hemp among those of the country.

[581] _Légende du point d'Argentan_, M. Eugène de Lonlay.

[582] _Nouveau Réglement Général sur toutes sortes de Marchandises et
Manufactures qui sont utiles et necessaires dans ce Royaume_, etc.,
par M. le Marquis de la Gomberdière. Paris, 1634. In 8vo.

[583] M. Fournier says that France was at this time tributary to Flanders
for "passemens de fil," very fine and delicately worked. Laffemas,
in his _Réglement Général pour dresser les Manufactures du Royaume_,
1597, estimates the annual cost of these "passemens" of every sort,
silk stockings, etc., at 800,000 crowns. Montchrestien, at above a
million.

[584] This was established by Colbert, and there they made, as well as at
Aurillac, the finest pillow lace in the style of point d'Angleterre.
This manufacture was encouraged by the King and the Court, and its
productions were among the choicest of the points de France.

[585] Youngest son of the Comte d'Harcourt.

[586] Vie de J.-Bap. Colbert. (Printed in the _Archives Curieuses_.)

[587] "Livre commode ou les Adienes de la Ville de Paris" for 1692.

[588] For the introduction of the gold point of Spain into France, see
SPAIN. The manufacture of gold lace in Paris was, however, prior to
Colbert.

"1732, un bord de point d'Espagne d'or de Paris, à fonds de
réseau."--_Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre._ Arch.
Nat. K. K. 390-1.

[589] In _Statistique de la France_, 1800, the finest silk lace is said to
be made at Fontenay, Puisieux, Morges, and Louvres-en-Parisis. The
coarse and common kinds at Montmorency, Villiers-le-Bel, Sarcelles,
Écouen, Saint-Brice, Groslay, Gisors, Saint-Pierre-les-Champs,
Etrepagny, etc. Peuchet adds: "Il s'y fait dans Paris et ses
environs une grande quantité de dentelles noires dont il se fait des
expéditions considérables." It was this same black silk lace which
raised to so high a reputation the fabrics of Chantilly.

[590] _Inv. de decés de la Duchesse de Modène._ 1761.

[591] _Inv. de decés du Duc de Duras._ 1789.

[592] "Une fraise à deux rangs de blonde tres fine, grande hauteur, 120 l.

"Une paire de sabots de la même blonde, 84 l.

"Un fichu en colonette la fraise garnie à deux rangs d'une tres
belle blonde fond d'Alençon, 120 l.

"Un pouff bordé d'un plissé de blonde tournante fond d'Alençon, à
bouquets tres fins et des bouillons de même blonde." This wonderful
coiffure being finished with "Un beau panache de quatre plumes
couleurs impériales, 108 l."

[593] See preceding note.

[594] "The bourgoin is formed of white, stiffly-starched muslin, covering
a paste-board shape, and rises to a great height above the head,
frequently diminishing in size towards the top, where it finishes in
a circular form. Two long lappets hang from either side towards the
back, composed often of the finest lace. The bourgoins throughout
Normandy are not alike."--_Mrs. Stothard's Tour in Normandy._

[595] This must have included Honfleur and other surrounding localities.

By a paper on the lace trade (_Mém. concernant le Commerce des
Dentelles_, 1704. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 14,294), we find that the
making of "dentelles de bas prix," employed at Rouen, Dieppe, Le
Havre, and throughout the Pays de Caux, the Bailliage of Caen, at
Lyons, Le Puy, and other parts of France, one quarter of the
population of all classes and ages from six to seventy years. These
laces were all made of Haarlem thread. See HOLLAND.

"The lace-makers of Havre," writes Peuchet, "work both in black and
white points, from 5 sous to 30 francs the ell. They are all
employed by a certain number of dealers, who purchase the produce of
their pillows. Much is transported to foreign countries, even to the
East Indies, the Southern Seas, and the islands of America."

[596] _Dictionnaire Géographique._ T. Corneille. 1707.

[597] _Gravures de Modes._ Arch. Nat. M., 815-23.

[598] "1683. Deux housses de toille piquée avec dentelle du Havre deux
camisolles de pareille toille et de dentelle du Havre."--_Inv. fait
après le decedz de Monseigneur Colbert._ Bib. Nat. MSS. Suite de
Mortemart, 34.

[599] "1651. Un tour d'autel de dentelle du Havre."--_Inv. des meubles de
la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jesus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. F.
8621.

"1681. Une chemisette de toile de Marseille picquée garnye de
dentelle du Havre."--_Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau de Sourdis, veuve de
François de Simiane._ Arch. Nat. M. M. 802.

[600] "Les ouvriers n'étant apparemment rappelés par aucune possession
dans cette ville, lorsqu'elle fut rétablie, ils s'y sont établis et
ont transmis leur travail à la postérité."--Peuchet.

[601] Point de Dieppe appears among the already-quoted lace boxes of 1688.

[602] _Mémoires pour servir à l'Histoire de la Ville de Dieppe_, composés
en l'année 1761, par Michel-Claude Gurbert. P. 99.

[603] _Mémoires Chronologiques pour servir à l'Histoire de Dieppe_, par M.
Desmarquets. 1785.

[604] _Notices sur Dieppe, Arques_, etc., par P. J. Feret. 1824.

[605] Peuchet, of Dieppe, says: "On ne fait pas la dentelle en roulant les
fuseaux sur le coussin, mais en l'y jetant."

[606] _Almanach de Dieppe pour 1847._

The Author has to express her thanks to Soeur Hubert, of the École
d'Apprentissage de Dentelle, and M. A. Morin, Librarian at Dieppe,
for their communications.

[607] Arch. Nat. X. 10,086.

[608] "The silk came from Nankin by way of London or the East, the black
silk called 'grenadine' was dyed and prepared at Lyons, the thread
was from Haarlem."--Roland de la Platière.

[609] Page 213.

[610] Letter from Edgar McCulloch, Esq., Guernsey.

[611] Blondes appear also to have been made at Le Mans:--

"Cette manufacture qui etoit autrefois entretenue à l'hôpital du
Mans, lui rapportoit un benefice de 4,000 à 5,000 fr. Elle est bien
tombée par la dispersion des anciennes soeurs
hospitalières."--_Stat. du Dép. de la Sarthe_, par le Citoyen L.-M.
Auvray. An X.

[612] The handkerchief of "Paris net" mentioned by Goldsmith.

[613] In the Dép. du Nord, by Jean-Ph. Briatte. "Its fall was owing to the
bad faith of imitators, who substituted a single thread of bad
quality for the double twisted thread of the country."--Dieudonné,
_Statistique de Dép. du Nord_.

In the _Mercure Galant_ for June, 1687, we find the ladies wear
cornettes à la jardinière "de Marly."

[614] _L'Industrie Française depuis la Révolution de Février et
l'Exposition de 1848_, par M. A. Audiganne.

M. Aubry thus divides the lace-makers of Normandy:--

Department of Calvados--
Arrondissement of Caen 25,000
Arr. of Bayeux 15,000
Arr. of Pont-l'Evêque, Falaise,* and Lisieux 10,000
Departments of La Manche and Seine-Inférieure 10,000
------
60,000

The women earn from 50 sous to 25 sous a day, an improvement on the
wages of the last century, which, in the time of Arthur Young,
seldom amounted to 24 sous.

Their products are estimated at from 8 to 10 millions of francs
(£320,000 to £400,000).

* "Falaise, dentelles façon de Dieppe."--Peuchet.

[615] He had run away with the rich heiress of Coadelan.

[616] _Chants populaires de la Bretagne_, par Th. Hersart de la
Villemarqué.

[617] The bringing home of the wedding dress is an event of solemn
importance. The family alone are admitted to see it, and each of
them sprinkles the orange blossoms with which it is trimmed with
holy water placed at the foot of the bed whereon the dress is laid,
and offers up a prayer for the future welfare of the wearer.

[618] French Hainault, French Flanders and Cambrésis (the present Dép. du
Nord), with Artois, were conquests of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV.,
confirmed to France by the treaties of Aix-la-Chapelle (1668) and
Nimeguen (1678).

[619] Photographed in the _Album d'Archéologie Religieuse_. It is supposed
to have been made towards the end of the seventeenth century.

[620] Founded 1630.

[621] "1772. 15 aunes 3-16^{mes} jabot haut de vraie Valencienne, 3,706
livres 17 sous"; and many other similar entries.

[622] "5/8 Bâtarde dito à bordure, à 60 ll., 37 ll. 10 s."--_Comptes de
Madame du Barry._

[623] _Statistique du Dép. du Nord_, par M. Dieudonné, Préfet en 1804.

[624] "Among the various fabrics having the same process of manufacture,
there is not one which produces exactly the same style of lace. The
same pattern, with the same material, whether executed in Belgium,
Saxony, Lille, Arras, Mirecourt, or Le Puy, will always bear the
stamp of the place where it is made. It has never been possible to
transfer any kind of manufacture from one city to another without
there being a marked difference between the productions."--Aubry.

"After the French Revolution, when so many lace-makers fled to
Belgium, Alost, Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, Menin, and Courtrai became the
centres of this industry, and the lace produced in each town has a
distinctive feature in the ground. That made in Ghent is
square-meshed, the bobbins being twisted two and a half times. At
Ypres, which makes a better quality of Valenciennes, the ground is
also square-meshed, but the bobbins are twisted four times. In
Courtrai and Menin the grounds are twisted three and a half times,
and in Bruges, where the ground has a circular mesh, the bobbins are
twisted three times."

[625] In the already quoted _Etat d'un Trousseau_, 1771, among the
necessary articles are enumerated: "Une coëffure, tour de gorge et
le fichu plissé de vraie Valencienne." The trimming of one of Madame
du Barry's pillowcases cost 487 fr.; her lappets, 1,030. The ruffles
of the Duchesse de Modène and Mademoiselle de Charollais are valued
at 200 livres the pair. Du Barry, more extravagant, gives 770 for
hers.

[626] "2 barbes et rayon de vraie valencienne; 3 au. ¾ collet grande
hauteur; 4 au. grand jabot; le tout de la même main, de 2,400
livres."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ 1770.

[627] Arthur Young, in 1788, says of Valenciennes: "Laces of 30 to 40
lines' breadth for gentlemen's ruffles is from 160 to 216 livres (£9
9s.) an ell. The quantity for a lady's headdress from 1,000 to
24,000 livres. The women gain from 20 to 30 sous a day. 3,600
persons are employed at Valenciennes, and are an object of 450,000
livres, of which the flax is not more than 1/30. The thread costs
from 24 to 700 livres the pound."

[628] The "barbes pleines" consisted of a pair of lappets from 3 to 5
inches wide each, and half an ell (20 inches) long, with a double
pattern of sprigged flowers and rounded at the ends. A narrow lace 1
½ ell long, called the _Papillon_, with the bande or passe, and the
fond de bonnet, completed the suit.

[629] The fault of the old Valenciennes lace is its colour, never of a
clear white, but inclining to a reddish cast.

[630] "Les dentelières avaient adopté un par-dessus de calamande rayée, un
bonniquet de toile fine plissé à petits canons. Une médaille
d'argent, pendue au cou par un petit liseré noir, complétait leur
costume, qui est arrivé jusqu'à nous; car nous l'avons vu, il n'y a
pas trente ans."--_Hist. de Lille_, par V. Derode. Paris et Lille,
1848.

[631] _Mémoires sur l'Intendance de Flandre._--MS. Bib. de Lille.

[632] Period of the peace of Utrecht when Lille, which had been retaken by
Prince Eugène, was again restored to France.

[633] _Histoire Populaire de Lille._ Henri Brunet. Lille, 1848; and
_Histoire de Lille._ V. Derode.

[634] _Report of the Commissioners for 1851._

[635] As late as 1761 Lille was considered as "foreign" with respect to
France, and her laces made to pay duty according to the tariff of
1664.

In 1708 (31st of July) we have an Arrest du Conseil d'Estat du Roy,
relative to the seizure of seventeen cartons of lace belonging to
one "Mathieu, marchand à l'Isle." Mathieu, in defence, pretends that
"les dentelles avoient esté fabriquées à Haluin (near Lille), terre
de la domination de Sa Majesté."--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau.

[636] See FLANDERS (WEST), _treille_.

[637] In 1789, thread was 192 francs the kilogramme.

[638] Describing her trousseau, every article of which was trimmed with
Angleterre, Malines, or Valenciennes, she adds: "A cette époque
(1800), on ignorait même l'existence du tulle, les seules dentelles
communes que l'on connût étaient les dentelles de Lille et d'Arras,
qui n'étaient portées que par les femmes les plus
ordinaires."--_Mém. de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès._ T. iii.
Certainly the laces of Lille and Arras never appear in the
inventories of the "grandes dames" of the last century.

[639] Dieudonné.

[640] Peuchet states much "fausse Valenciennes, très rapprochée de la
vraie," to have been fabricated in the hospital at Lille, in which
institution there were, in 1723, 700 lace-workers.

[641] A piece of Lille lace contains from 10 to 12 ells.

[642] "L'Abbaye du Vivier, etablie dans la ville d'Arras," Poëme par le
Père Dom Martin du Buisson, in _Mémoires et Pièces pour servir a
l'Histoire de la Ville d'Arras_.--Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François,
8,936.

[643] Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François, 8,936.

[644] We find in the Colbert Correspondence (1669), the directors of the
General hospital at Arras had enticed lace-workers of point de
France, with a view to establish the manufacture in their hospital,
but the jealousy of the other cities threatening to overthrow their
commerce, they wrote to Colbert for protection.

[645] Gt. Ward. Acc. Geo. I. 1714-15 (P. R. O.), and Acc. of John, Duke of
Montagu, master of the Great Wardrobe, touching the expenses of the
funeral of Queen Anne and the coronation of George I. (P.R.O.)

In 1761 an Act was passed against its being counterfeited, and a
vendor of "Orrice lace" (counterfeit, we suppose) forfeits her
goods.

[646] _Statistique des Gens de Lettres._ 1808. Herbin. T. ii.

[647] A museum of lace has been established at Bailleul.

[648] In 1788, Bailleul, Cassel, and the district of Hazebrouck, had 1351
lace-makers. In 1802 the number had diminished; but it has since
gradually increased. In 1830 there were 2,500. In 1851 there were
already 8,000, dispersed over twenty communes.

[649] Haute-Loire, Cantal, Puy-de-Dôme, and Loire.

[650] 1640.

[651] 1833 and 1848.

[652] By Médecis.

[653] They represent to the king that the laces of the "diocèse du Puy, du
Vélay et de l'Auvergne, dont il se faisait un commerce très
considérable dans les pays étrangers, par les ports de Bordeaux, La
Rochelle et Nantes," ought not to pay the import duties held by the
"cinq grosses fermes."--_Arrest du Conseil d'Estat du Roy_, 6
August, 1707. Arch. Nat. Coll. Rond. They ended by obtaining a duty
of five sous per lb., instead of the 50 livres paid by Flanders and
England, or the ten livres by the laces of Comté, Liège, and
Lorraine.

[654] 1715 and 1716.

[655] See MILAN.

[656] Roland de la Platière.

[657] Three-fourths were consumed in Europe in time of peace:--Sardinia
took 120,000 francs, purchased by the merchants of Turin, once a
year, and then distributed through the country: Florence and Spain,
each 200,000; Guyenne exported by the merchants of Bordeaux 200,000;
500,000 went to the Spanish Indies. The rest was sold in France by
means of colporteurs.--Peuchet.

[658] In Auvergne lace has preserved its ancient names of "passement" and
"pointes," the latter applied especially to needle-made lace. It has
always retained its celebrity for passements or guipures made in
bands. The simplicity of life in the mountains has doubtless been a
factor in the unbroken continuity of the lace-trade.

[659] Le Puy in recent years has named some of its coarse patterns
"guipure de Cluny," after the museum in Paris--a purely fanciful
name.

[660] Savinière d'Alquie.

[661] Savary. Point d'Aurillac is mentioned in the _Révolte des
Passemens_.

[662] _Histoire du point d' Alençon_, Madame Despierres.

[663] "Voile de toile d'argent, garni de grandes dentelles d'or et argent
fin, donné en 1711 pour envelopper le chef de S.
Gaudence."--_Inventaire du Monastère des Bénédictines de St.
Aligre._

[664] In the convents are constantly noted down "point d'Espagne d'or et
argent fin," while in the cathedral of Clermont the chapter
contented itself with "dentelles d'or et argent faux."

[665] "1773. 6 au. de grande entoilage de belle blonde à poix."

[666] "16 au. entoilage à mouches à 11 l., 1761."--_Comptes de Madame du
Barry._

[667] "7 au. de tulle pour hausser les manchettes, à 9 l., 63 l."--1770.
_Cptes. de Madame du Barry._

[668] _Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy._

[669] In an old geography we find, "Tulle, Tuille three hundred years
ago."

The word Tule or Tuly occurs in an English inventory of 1315, and
again, in "Sir Gawayn and the Green Knight"; but in both cases the
word seems not to indicate a stuff but rather a locality, probably
Toulouse.--Francisque Michel.

In Skelton's _Garland of Lawrell_, we find, "A skein of tewly silk";
which his commentator, the Rev. A. Dyce, considers to be "dyed of a
red colour."

[670] As early as 1615 there appears to have been a traffic with Italy in
laces, the painter Claude Lorraine being taken to Italy in that year
by his uncle, a carrier and dealer in laces.

[671] Neufchâteau.

[672] The trader who purchases the lace is called "peussemotier."

[673] The Lorraine laces could only enter France by the bureau of
Chaumont, nor could they leave the country without a formal permit
delivered at Monthureux-le-Sec.--Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau.

[674] In a catalogue of the collection of objects of religious art,
exhibited at Mechlin in 1864, we find noticed, "Dentelle pour
rochet, point de Nancy," from the church of St. Charles at Antwerp,
together with various "voiles de bénédiction," laces for rochets and
altar-cloths, of "point de Paris."

[675] The _Tableau Statistique du Dép. des Vosges_, by Citoyen Desgoulles,
An X, says: "Mirecourt is celebrated for its lace fabrics. There are
twenty lace merchants; but the workers are not attached to any
particular house. They buy their own thread, make the lace, and
bring it to the merchants of Mirecourt to purchase. The women follow
this occupation when not engaged in field work; but they only earn
from 25 to 40 centimes a day. Before the Revolution, 7/8 of the
coarse lace was exported to Germany towards Swabia. Of the fine
qualities, France consumed 2/3. The remainder went to the colonies."

[676] So are those of Courseulles (Calvados).

[677] Savary. Sedan was ceded to Louis XIII. in 1642.

[678] "Eidem pro 6 divi[=t] Sedan et Itali[=e] colaris opere scis[=s] et
pro 62 purles opere acuo pro 6 pa[=r] mani[=c] lintea[=r] eisdem,
£116 6s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., ix. to xi. P. R. O.

[679] "Eidem pro 6 divi[=t] Pultenarian Sedan de opere scis[=s] colaris et
pro 72 purles divi[=t] opere acuo pro mani[=c] lintea[=r] eisdem,
£106 16s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., xi. to xii.

[680] In 1700 there were several lace manufacturers at Charleville, the
principal of whom was named Vigoureux.--_Hist. de Charleville._
Charleville, 1854.

[681] Savary. Ed. 1726.

[682] _Description de la France._ Ed. 1752.

[683] Savary.

[684] John Roberts, of Burgundy, eight years in England, "a knitter of
knotted wool."

Peter de Grue, Burgundian, "knitter of cauls and sleeves."

Callys de Hove, "maker of lace," and Jane his wife, born in
Burgundy.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. 84. P.R.O.

[685] M. Joseph Garnier, the learned Archiviste of Dijon, informed Mrs.
Palliser that "les archives de l'hospice Sainte-Anne n'ont conservé
aucune trace de la manufacture de dentelles qui y fut établie. Tout
ce qu'on sait, c'est qu'elle était sous la direction d'un sieur
Helling, et qu'on y fabriquait le point d'Alençon."

[686] _Descr. du Dép. de la Vienne_, par le Citoyen Cochon. An X.

[687] "Ce n'est pas une grande chose que la manufacture de points qui est
établie dans l'hôpital de Bourdeaux."--Savary. Edit. 1726.

[688] Table of the Number of Lace-workers in France in 1851. (From M.
Aubry.)

Manufacture of Chantilly
and Alençon:--

Orne }
Seine-et-Oise }
Eure } 12,500
Seine-et-Marne }
Oise }

Manufacture of Lille, Arras,
and Bailleul:--

Nord }
Pas-de-Calais } 18,000

Manufacture of Normandy,
Caen, and Bayeux:--

Calvados }
Manche } 55,000
Seine-Inférieure }

Manufacture of Lorraine,
Mirecourt:--

Vosges }
Meurthe } 22,000

Manufacture of Auvergne,
Le Puy:--

Cantal }
Haute Loire } 130,000
Loire }
Puy-de-Dôme }

Application-work at Paris}
and Lace-makers } 2,500
-------
Total 240,000
-------

In his _Report on the Universal Exhibition of 1867_, M. Aubry
estimates the number at 200,000--their average wages from 1 to 1½
francs a day of ten hours' labour; some earn as much as 3½ francs.
Almost all work at home, combining the work of the pillow with their
agricultural and household occupations. Lace schools are being
founded throughout the northern lace departments of France, and
prizes and every kind of encouragement given to the pupils by the
Empress, as well as by public authorities and private individuals.

[689] In the Census of 1571, giving the names of all strangers in the city
of London, we find mention but of one Dutchman, Richard Thomas, "a
worker of billament lace."

[690] In 1689 appears an "Arrest du Roi qui ordonne l'exécution d'une
sentence du maître de poste de Rouen, portant confiscation des
dentelles venant d'Amsterdam."--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau.

[691] 1685.

[692] We have frequent mention of dentelle à la reine previous to its
introduction into Holland.

1619. "Plus une aulne ung tiers de dentelle à la
reyne."--_Trésorerie de Madame, Soeur de Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 234.

1678. "Les dames mettent ordinairement deux cornettes de Point à la
Reyne ou de soie écrue, rarement de Point de France, parce que le
point clair sied mieux au visage."--_Mercure Galant._

1683. "Deux Aubes de toille demie holande garnis de point à la
Reyne."--_Inv. fait apres le decedz de Mgr. Colbert._ Bib. Nat. MSS.
Suite de Mortemart, 34.

[693] C. Weisse. _History of the French Protestant Refugees from the Edict
of Nantes._ Edinburgh, 1854.

[694] Grandson of Simon Châtelain. See Chap. VI.

[695] In the paper already referred to (see NORMANDY) on the lace trade,
in 1704, it is stated the Flemish laces called "dentelles de haut
prix" are made of Lille, Mons and Mechlin thread, sent to bleach at
Haarlem, "as they know not how to bleach them elsewhere." The
"dentelles de bas prix" of Normandy and other parts of France being
made entirely of the cheaper thread of Haarlem itself, an Act, then
just passed, excluding the Haarlem thread, would, if carried out,
annihilate this branch of industry in France.--_Commerce des
Dentelles de Fil._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 14,294.

[696] And. Yarranton. 1677.

[697] "Flax is improved by age. The saying was, 'Wool may be kept to dust,
flax to silk.' I have seen flax twenty years old as fine as a
hair."--_Ibid._

[698] _Commerce de la Hollande._ 1768.

[699] _Edinburgh Amusement._

[700] _Six Weeks in the Court and Country of France._ 1691.

[701] Treillis d'Allemagne is early mentioned in the French inventories:--

1543. "Pour une aulne deux tiers trillist d'Allemagne."--_Argenterie
de la Reine_ (_Eléonore d'Autriche_). Arch. Nat. K. K. 104.

1557. "Pour une aulne de treilliz noir d'Allemagne pour garnir la
robbe de damars noir ou il y a de la bizette."--_Comptes de
l'Argentier du Roi_ (_Henry II._). Arch. Nat. K. K. 106.

[702] "At a meeting of the Society of Polite Arts, premiums were given to
a specimen of a new invention imitating Dresden work. It is done
with such success as to imitate all the various stitches of which
Dresden work is composed, with such ingenuity as to surpass the
finest performance with the needle. This specimen, consisting of a
cap and a piece for a long apron, the apron, valued by the
inventress at £2 2s., was declared by the judges worth
£56."--_Annual Register._ 1762.

[703] "Smash go the glasses, aboard pours the wine on circling laces,
Dresden aprons, silvered silks, and rich brocades." And again, "Your
points of Spain, your ruffles of Dresden."--_Fool of Quality._ 1766.

[704] _Caledonian Mercury._ 1760.

[705] Letter from Koestritz. 1863.

[706] In 1713.

[707] Weisse.

[708] Dated Oct. 29, 1685.

[709] Anderson.

[710] Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau.

[711] "Commissions and Privileges granted by Charles I., Landgrave of
Hesse, to the French Protestants, dated Cassel, Dec. 12, 1685."

[712] Peuchet.

[713] Anderson.

[714] _La France Protestante_, par M. M. Haag. Paris 1846-59.

[715] "Item. Dix carrez de tapisserye a poinctz de Hongrye d'or, d'argent
et soye de differends patrons."--1632.

_Inv. après le decès du Maréchal de Marillac._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr.
11,424.

[716] Hungary was so styled in the seventeenth century. In a _Relation of
the most famous Kingdoms and Common Weales through the World_,
London, 1608, we find "Hungerland."

[717] "City Madam." Massinger.

[718] _Pictures of German Life in the Fifteenth, Sixteenth, and
Seventeenth Centuries_, by Gustaf Freytag.

[719] _Merveilleux Amusements des Bains de Bade._ Londres, 1739.

[720] Bishop of Salisbury. "Letters." 1748-9.

[721] _Modelbuch in Kupfen gemacht._ Nürnberg, 1601.

[722] Poppenreuth is about a German mile from Nuremberg.

[723] "Austria."--_Report of the International Exhibition of 1862._

[724] As quoted in Lefébure's _Embroidery and Lace_.

[725] Haag. _La France Protestante._

[726] The Neufchâtel trade extended through the Jura range from the valley
of Lake Joux (Vaud) to Porentruy, near Bâle.

[727] _Statistique de la Suisse._ Picot, de Genève. 1819.

[728] A curious pattern-book has been sent to us, belonging to the
Antiquarian Society of Zurich, through the kindness of its
president, Dr. Ferd. Keller. It contains specimens of a variety of
narrow braids and edgings of a kind of knotted work, but only a few
open-work edgings that could be called lace.

[729] On her marriage, 1515.

[730] "1619. Sept. 11. Paid for a lace, 63 rixd. 11 skillings.

"1620. Oct. 11. Paid to a female lace-worker, 28 rixd.