Chapter XVII: Part 2: , 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in (2)

_Cartisane._ A strip of parchment or vellum covered with silk or gold or metal thread, used to form a pattern.

_Close Stitch_ = Buttonhole stitch.

_Cordonnet._ The outline to ornamental forms. The cordonnet consists (1) of a single thread, or (2) of several threads worked together to give the appearance of one large thread, or (3) of a thread or horsehair overcast with buttonhole stitches. In England called _gimp_.

_Couronnes._ Ornaments to the cordonnet. When they ornament the raised cordonnet in the body of the pattern they are known as _fleurs volantes_.

_Coxcombs_ = Bars.

_Dentélé_ = Scalloped border.

_Droschel._ Flemish word used in Belgium for net-ground made with bobbins.

_Dressed Pillow._ A term used by bobbin-lace makers to intimate that all accessories necessary are in their proper positions.[1373]

{504}_Edge._ There are two edges to lace; the outer, which in trimmings and flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots, and the _engrêlure_ or _footing_.

_Engrêlure_ = Footing, or heading, of a lace, used to sew the lace on to the material it is to decorate.

_Entoilage._ French term for a plain mesh ground or galloon.[1374]

_Fil de Crin._ A thick or heavy outline or cordonnet.[1374]

_Fil de Trace._ The name by which the outlines of needle-made laces are distinguished.[1374]

_Fillings._ A word occasionally used for _modes_ or _jours_; fancy stitches employed to fill in enclosed spaces in needle-made and bobbin laces.[1374]

_Flax._ Is composed of the filaments of the fibrous portion of _Linum usitatissimum_, an annual, native of Europe, and from it linen thread is spun. That of Flanders is the best for lace-making.

_Fleurs Volantes._ See _Couronnes_.

_Fond._ Identical with _champ_, _entoilage_, and _treille_. The groundwork of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toilé or pattern which it surrounds and supports. Grounds are divided into _fonds claires_, _brides claires_, and _brides ornées_. The _fond claires_ include the _Réseau_ or net-patterned grounds. _Fond de Neige_ is also known as _Oeil de Perdrix_.

_Fond Simple._ Sometimes called _Point de Lille_; is the purest, lightest, and most transparent of all grounds. The sides of the meshes are not partly plaited as in Brussels and Mechlin, nor wholly plaited as in Valenciennes and Chioggia; but four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads round each other, and the remaining two sides by simply crossing of the threads over each other. [See _Grounds_.][1374]

_Footing._ See _Engrêlure_.

_Gimp._ The _pattern_ which rests on the ground or is held together by brides. The work should not, however be confounded with the material gimp, which was formerly called _guipure_.

In Honiton and the Midlands, the word denotes the coarse glazed thread used to raise certain edges of the design.[1374]

_Gingles._ A name given in Buckinghamshire, etc., to the bunches of coloured beads hung on to bobbins by means of brass wire, in order to give extra weight and so increase the tension of the threads.[1374]

{505}_Groppo_ [Italian]. A knot or tie.

_Grounds._ The grounds of laces are divided into two classes, one being called the _bride_, the other the _Réseau_. The _bride_ ground is formed with plain or ornamental bars, in order to connect the ornaments forming the pattern. The _Réseau_ ground is a net made with the needle or with bobbins, to connect the ornaments forming the pattern.

_Guipure._ A lace-like trimming of twisted threads. The word is now used to loosely describe many laces of coarse pattern. _Guipure d'Art_ is the name given to modern darned netting.[1375]

_Heading_ = _Footing_, _engrêlure_.

_Jours._ Ornamental devices occurring in various parts of a piece of lace. The earliest forms of _jours_ may be seen in Venetian point lace, where they are introduced into the centre of a flower or other such device. [_Modes_ are identical with _jours_.]

_Legs_ = Bars.

_Mat_, or _Math_. The closely-plaited portions of flowers or leaves in bobbin-made lace; also the closely-worked portion of any lace.[1375]

_Modes._ See _Jours_.

_Oeil de Perdrix._ See _Fond_.

_Orris._ A corruption of Arras. The term is now used to denote galloon for upholstering purposes. In the eighteenth century it was applied to laces of gold and silver.[1375]

_Passement._ Until the seventeenth century, laces, bands, and gimps were called _passements à l'aiguille_; bobbin laces, _passements au fuseau_. At present the word denotes the pricked pattern on parchment upon which both needle-point and bobbin laces are worked.

_Passementerie._ Now used for all kinds of fringes, ribbons, and gimp for dress trimmings.

_Pearls_, or _Purls_ = _Bars_.

_Pearl edge_, or _Purl edge_. A narrow thread edge of projecting loops used to sew upon lace as a finish to the edge.[1375]

_Pearlin_, or _Pearling_ [Scotch]. Lace.

_Picot._ Minute loops worked on to the edge of a _bride_ or _cordonnet_, or added as an enrichment to a flower--as in the case of rose point, in which _picots_ play an important part.

{506}_Pillow Lace._ Lace made on the pillow, by twisting and plaiting threads. The French term is _dentelle au fuseau_.

_Pizzo_ [Italian]. Lace.

_Ply_ = A single untwisted thread.

_Point Lace._ Lace made with the point of the needle. The French term is _Point à l'aiguille_. The term point has been misused to describe varieties of lace, such as _Point d'Angleterre_, _Point de Malines_, etc., which are laces made on the pillow, and not with the point of the needle.

_Point de Raccroc._ A stitch used by lace-makers to join _réseau_ ground.

_Point Noué_ = Buttonhole stitch.

_Point Plat._ A French term for flat point executed without a raised cordonnet or outline cord.[1376]

_Pricked._ The term used in pillow lace-making to denote the special marking out of the pattern upon parchment.

_Pricker._ A short instrument used in bobbin lace to prick holes in the pattern to receive the pins.[1376]

_Punto a Feston_ = Buttonhole stitch.

_Purls_ = _Brides_.

_Purlings_ = A stitch used in Honiton guipure to unite the bobbin-made sprigs.[1376]

_Réseau._ Ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various manners, and made by the point of the needle in fewer and less elaborate manners. The French term, as here given, is generally used in preference to any English equivalent.

_Réseau Rosacé._ See _Argentella_ (Ch. ARGENTAN).

_Rouissage._ The process of steeping the flax preparatory to its being spun for lace-making.

_Rezél_, _Reseuil._ See LACIS, Chap. II.

_Runners._ The name by which the bobbins which work across a pattern in bobbin lace are known.

_Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler.

{507}INDEX

Aberdeen, qualifications of schoolmistress of, 431 n1209

Aberdein, Mrs. Frank, cited, 400 n1140

Abrahat, Mrs., pensioned by Queen Anne, 347

Abrantès, Duchesse d', 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638

Abruzzi, the, lace-making in, 68

Addison, cited, 349

Addo, Marquis d', 459 n1264

Adelaide, Queen, 409 and n1155, n1156

Adélaïde de France, 182

Adelhaïs, Queen (wife of Hugh Capet), 5

Agriculture, women employed in, lace-makers contrasted with, 370

Aquesseau, Chancellor d', quoted, 264

Alb lace, at Granada, 92

Albert, Archduke of Austria, 113 n326

------ Museum (Exeter), tallies in, 78 n242

Albissola, lace manufacture at, 75, 77 and n240, 78, 79 and n246

Alcuid, embroidery taught by, 6

Alenches, 249

Alençon
numbers of lace-workers at Chantilly and, (1851), 257 n688,
refugees from, in 18th century, 347

--------, Duke d', 140 n395

-------- lace (see Point d'Alençon)

Alice, Princess, bridal dress of, 409

Almagro, lace industry at, 102 and n297, 103 n305

Aloe thread, Florentine use of, 93 n273

---- thread lace
Greek, 86
Italian, 79 and n245
Portuguese, 107
Spanish, 91, 93, 99, 101

Alost Valenciennes, ground stitch of, 133

Altar-cloths,
alternate designs on, 24
Bock collection, in, 23
Prague, at (by Anne of Bohemia), 9

Altar frontal in point conté, (Mrs. Hailstone's), 23

Altenburg, 268

Alva, Duke of, 366 n1085

Alvin, M., 480 n1322

Amelia, Princess, 128

America,
impulse given to lace industry by U.S., 187
lace imported to, from--
Bailleul, 241
England (baby lace) 385
Grammont, 134
Italy, 75, 79
Mirecourt, 253
Portugal, 106
Saxony, 263
Spain, 102
Puritan lace-makers in, 372 n1099
war with, effect of, on lace trade, 408

Amsterdam, establishment of lace fabric at, 259

Anderson, quoted, 74, 83, 101, 124, 271,288, 371 n1093, 384, 396;
cited, 264 n709, 265 n713, 286, 397

--------, Lady, robbery at house of, 346

Angoulême, Duchesse d', 196

Anne of Austria,
influence of, on French fashions, 147, 150
Mechlin veil of, 125-126 and n356
pattern-book dedicated to, 144, 498
pilgrimage to Thierzac, 248
presents of English lace from Henrietta Maria to, 330 and n961, 401

---- of Bohemia, Queen (wife of Richard II.), altar-cloth by, 9

---- of Denmark,
cost of lace of, 317 and n904, 320 and n925
Elizabeth's old clothes presented to, 320
English home industries encouraged by, 319
foreign lace purchased by, 327
funeral of, 325 and n934

---- of England (Queen Anne)
household management of, 174 n516
Mechlin lace of, 126 and n360
period of, 347-350

Anspach, 265

--------, Margrave of, 178

Anti-Gallican Society
Edinburgh and Dublin Societies contemporaneous with, 429
prizes awarded by, 119, 262, 297, 355 and n1058, 374 and nn, 380, 395,
398, 404
records of, cited, 373

Antwerp
book sale at (1864), 482
Brussels lace made at, 130
Mechlin lace made at, 125
-------- lace
arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365
Brussels lace compared with, 118
first mention of, 129 and n367
Spanish market for, 129-130

-------- lace-makers, in London (1618-1688), 129 n366

Anzola, M., 474

Application lace, 122;
flowers, 252

Appliqueuse, work of, 122

Aprons, laced, 309 and n873, 338, 356 and n1062

Aranda, Madame d', 98 n280

Arbroath, effigy formerly in church of, 418

Ardee, braid and cord lace made at, 446

Ardfert Abbey, lace shroud found at, 436

Argentan, 202 and n569

-------- lace. _See_ Point d'Argentan

Argentella, 78 n244, 193 and n555

Argentine of Dorset, 310 n877

Argyle, Duchess of. _See_ Hamilton

Armada pattern lace of Queen Charlotte, 397

Armstrong, Mrs. Rachel, 438

Arnold, E., cited, 466, 469 n1286, 471 n1299

Arras
early industries of, 239
gold lace of, 240
lace industry of, 238-240
lace of, compared with that of Lille, 235, 240;
with that of Mirecourt, 252
number of lace workers (1851), 257 n688

Arundel, Countess of, 12

--------, Lady, quoted, 395

Assizes, Maiden, custom of presenting laced gloves at, 337 n991

Asti, Baroness A. d', 79

Athens, white silk lace of, 86

Atterbury, Bishop, lace smuggled in coffin of, 361

Auberville, M. Dupont, exhibits by, 58;
cited, 78

Aubry, Felix, quoted, 132 n376, 160 n466, 228 n614, 231, 257 n688;
cited, 184, 285, 292

Audiganne, A., cited, 228 n614

Augsburg, 266, 267

Augusta, Princess, marriage of, 359

Aumale, Madame d', 183

Aurillac, 154, 246-250

Austria
Albert Archduke, 113 n326
Anne of. _See_ Anne
lace of, 268

Auto-da-fè, lace worn at, 100

Auvergne
ancient names preserved in, 246 n658
lace exhibited (1867), 246
Maltese guipures made in, 88
mignonette made in (1665), 35
number of lace-makers in (1851), 257 n688
petition of lace-makers in (1767), 64
thread used in, 245

--------, Mgr. de la Tour d', 183

Auvray, quoted, 224 n611

Avaux, M. le Comte d', 155

Avrillion, Mlle., 177 n526;
cited, 184 n541

Axmouth, lace-workers of, 409 n1157

Aylesbury, lace industry of, 378, 379

Baby lace, 385

Babylon, embroidery of, 3

Backhouse, James, 300

Bacon, Lord, 318

Baden, Princess of, 178

Bailey's Dictionary, quoted, 303 n830

Bailleul, 241 and n647, 257 n688

Baillie, James, 432

Baker, Robert, 437

Baldachino in Italian lace, 66

"Ballad of Hardyknute" quoted, 24

Bamberg, collection of German Point at, 267

Bampton, Mr., 343

Bands
Falling. _See_ Falling Bands
Lawyers', 337

Bannatyne, James, 422

Baptism ceremony, excess of lace at, 352 n1046

Barante, M. de, cited, 111

Barbara, Princess of Portugal (1729), 105

Barbes, 168 n496, 180 and n533

------ pleines, 234 and n627, n628

Barcelona,
lace industry of, 91, 101 and n294, 103 n305
pillows used at, 103 n305
silk of, used in Maltese lace-making, 88;
used for blondes, 103

Bard, William, 403

Barleycorn net, 448

Barry, Madame Du. _See_ du Barry

Bars, Genoese lace joined by, 74, 75 n236

Baseus, N., 470

Basing, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320

Basset, Anne, 290

------, Mary, 291

Bassompierre, 142

Bath and West of England Society, 410 and n1159

Bath Brussels lace, 405

Baucher, Canon, 226

Bauta, 57 and n193

Bavari, 55

Bavaria, Queen of, 421

Bavière, Isabeau de, 139 n393

Bay, Rudolf, 274

Bayeux,
black lace of, 214, 226
Chantilly shawls made at, 215
lace industry, establishment of, 226;
Lefébure's development of, 228;
number of lace-makers engaged in, 228 n614
mignonette made at (1665), 35 n109
point d'Alençon of, 200
point de Marli of, 225 and n613
point de raccroc of, 120
Spanish silk laces contrasted with those of, 103
Tapestry, 6

Bayman, Mrs., 107

Bayonne, linen work of (1679), 79 n248

Beale, Mrs., thefts from, 349

Bearing cloths, 309 and n871

Beau Nash on aprons, 356

Beaucaire, fair at, 43 n136

Beaufort, Duchesse of, edicts ignored by, 142;
extracts from inventory of, 143 and n413, n414, n415.

Beauharnais, Eugène, 123 n351

Beaumont and Fletcher, quoted, 292 n788, 296 and n805, 315 and n896, 324,
363 n1070, 365

Beauregard, 248 and n664

Becket, Thomas à, 202 and n569

Beckford, quoted, 90, 98 n280

Beckmann, quoted, 92 n267

Bedford, number of lace-makers in, 377

--------, Lady, 320

--------, Duke of, 360

--------, Lord, 348

Bedfordshire lace, 88, 375-377, 385

Beds, lace trimmings for, 27 n84, 98 and n280

Beer (Devon), lace-workers at, 409 and n1157, 416 n1169, 417 and n1171

Beggars' lace, 34

Béguinage, 126, 130, 133

"Bèle, Prerie," 144

Belev lace, 283

Belgium (See also Flanders and Brabant)
lace industry (_See also_ Antwerp, Brussels etc.)
application exported to France, annual value of, 252
centres of, before 1665, 44 n144
development of, 138
female education in, 112-113
guipures made by, 410
importance of, 112 and n324
numbers employed in (1861), 112
pillow lace. _See_ Valenciennes
Valenciennes industry transferred to, 232
lace schools in, 113-115
linens and flax of, 405-407
pedlar lace-sellers in, 44 and n143
smuggling lace of, into France, 116
thread, fineness of, 119 n339
weaving of lace in fourteenth century in, 109

Bell, Mrs., old lace of, 384

Bellière, M. de la, 130 and n368

Bellini, lace in picture by, 47

Ben, Miss Mary, 398

Beni Hassan, figures at, 1

Beresford, Lord John George, 443

Berkeley, Bishop, quoted, 371 n1092

Berlin, number of lace fabrics in (_circ._ 1685), 264

Bernhardi, N. R., cited, 497 n1359

Berry lace industry, 256

Berthe (mother of Charlemagne), 5

Bertin, Mlle., 181

Bertini, Cav., 462 n1270

Bess of Hardwick, 11

Béziers, Bishop of, 154, 155

Bible printed by Quentell, 460

Bidney, Miss Jane, 409

Bigazzi, M., 468 n1293, 471 n1300

Billament lace, 48 and n159, 299 and n817

Binche, royal edict concerning, 135 and n381

------ lace, 118, 135 and n383, 136, 212

Bindoni, G. A., 471

Bingham, Lady, 439

Bisette (bizette), 33 and n102, 210, 256

Bishops, denouncement of ruffs by, 316-317;
ruffs worn by, 318

Black lace
Caen fabric, 225
Caen, Bayeux and Chantilly, similarity of fabrics of, 226
Calvados, 223
Chantilly fabric, 212-215 and n584, 226
East Flanders fabric, 134
England, imported to, from Low Countries, 117 n330;
fashion introduced into, 153 n444;
Lille fabric popular in, 237
fond d'Alençon, ground, 214
France, fashion introduced into, 153-154
Le Puy fabric, 245
Liège fabric, 137 n391
Lille fabric, 236, 237
loom-made, 432 n1212
masks of, 177
Saxony fabric, 263
Turin, at court of, 153 n445

Blanche of Lancaster, 285 n755

Blandford, lace industry of, 344, 396 and nn, 397 n1134

Blessington, Countess of, lace collection of, 369

Blois, Mlle. de, 161-162 and n472

Blonde de fil, 34 and n108, 237

Blonde-workers, wages of, 225

Blondes
Almagro, at, 102 n297
Barcelona silk used for, 103
Caen, of, 224
Catalonian, 102
England, introduction of manufacture into, in George II.'s time, 356;
made at Sherborne, 397
French court, at, 182
Genoese manufacture of, 75
Le Puy, of, 245
Spanish, 103 n305
Vélay, of, 244
white, 214

Bobbin lace (_See also_ Pillow lace)
Belgian, 123
bobbins used for, 296 n798
pillow lace a term for, 32
point duchesse, 123
royal inventories, mentioned in, 295 n797
value of, per oz. (Queen Elizabeth's time), 295 n797

------ net
English machine-made, 447-450
France, first made in, 187

Bobbins
description of, 32, 33, 295 n795, 391 and n1127
Honiton, at, 415 n1166
long, used for bobbin lace, 296 n798
materials used for, 32, 74 n235
number of, 33 n101
Peniche, at, 106 n314

Bock, Dr., collection of, 23 and n74, 24

Boenen, G., 311

Bohemia, modern lace of, 262

Boileau, quoted, 159

Boislaunay, Epoux Malbiche de, 206

_Boke of Curtasye_, quoted, 290

Bolbec lace, 218

Bolingbroke, Lord, 351

Bologna, lace-making at, 68, 81 n248

Bonald, Cardinal de, 183

Bone, bobbins made of, 74 n235

---- lace
bobbin lace distinguished from, 296 n798
explanation of term, 400

---- pins (_See also_ Bobbins), 295 n795

Bone-work, why so called, 294

Bonzy, Monseigneur de, 154-155

Books, parchment patterns on covers of, 77

Boot tops, 145, 150

Bordeaux fair, 43 n136

Borlase, Sir Henry, 378.

Bosse, Abraham, engravings by, 146, 147, 149

Bottles used as light reflectors, 390 and n1125

Boufflers, Governor, 236.

Bourbon, Catherine de, 144, 482, 494

--------, Duchesse de, extracts from the inventory of, 120 n344, 125
n354, 128 n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, 195 n560

Bourg-Argental, 224

Bourges, 5, 256

--------, Archbishop of, 118 and n336

Bourgogne, Duc de, 99 n283

Bowdon, Miss, 417

Bowen, Emanuel, quoted, 405

Bowes, Sir Robert, 38, 298

Bowie, J., 430 n1207

Bowll, William, 308.

Boys as lace-makers, 263, 377, 413, 414

Brabant (_See also_ Belgium)
lace-workers from, settled at Tönder, 274
point de Sedan, attributed to, 254

Brabant lace. _See_ Brussels, Mechlin, etc.

Braid, lace a term used for, 26

------ lace (Devonshire), 414 n1156

------ and cord lace, 446.

Braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point, 410 and n1159

Branscombe, lace-workers of, 409 n1138

Brazil, lace of, 108.

Brazza, Contessa di, cited, 71 n222, 75 n237, 78 n244;
quoted, 75 n236;
lace school under direction of, 81 n248

Bremen, refusal of, to receive strangers, 264

Brennar, Mr., 442 n1232

Brereton, Miss Elinor, 438

Bretagne, 229 and n617

Bretschneider, A., 496

Briattes, Jean-Ph., 225 n613

Bribes of lace, 351 n1045

Bridal veils, 78

Bride ground. _See_ Argentan ground.

------ lace, 302 and n829

Brides
definition of, 31 and n91
Milanese lace, in, 75 n237
Spanish point, in, 58
thread guipures, in, 39, 40
_vrai réseau_ the successor of, 406

Bridgewater Baptist Church, manifesto of, 403 and n1144

"Britannia Languens" (1680), cited, 54 and n183, 192

Brittany, 229 and n617

Brithnoth, exploits of, in embroidery, 6

Broderie des Indes, 229

-------- de Malines. _See_ Mechlin lace

Brooks, Mr., speech of, quoted, 329.

Brotherton, Mr., invention of lace loom by, 432 n1212

Brown, Rawdon, cited, 345 n1025

Bruce, Mr. Collingwood, cited, 6

Bruges
collection of lace at, 138
export trade with France, value of, 241
guipure de Flandres of, 123, 133
Valenciennes made at, character of, 232 n624

Brunet, H., cited, 161 n472, 236 n633, 459, 461, 476;
quoted, 466

Brunfaut, M. Duhayon, 131 and n374

Brussels lace
Alençon, 200
application, rivalry of Mirecourt, 252
arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365
branches of industry, 123
Brussels the only place for, 118
colour of, 121
compared with--
Alençon, 199;
Binche, 135;
Lille, 237;
point de France, 194;
St. Trond, 137;
Saxony needle point, 263
Cretan mesh work compared with, 87
designing of, 122
English Court fashion for, in George II.'s time, 354
exported as "English point," 117
flowers of, 121
grounds of, 120;
Mechlin ground distinguished from, 125
Honiton imitations of, 405, 406, 410
made at Antwerp, 130;
at Chimay, 135
manufacture described, 31, 118, 119;
titles of workers of various processes in, 122
Marie Louise, Empress, presented with, 124
patterns of, 122;
date of earliest patterns, 116
point de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre
popular establishment for English buyers, 124
price per pound, 119 n339;
causes of high price, 118, 119;
comparative cost of ground, 120;
price of flounce of, 124 n352
thread used in, 118 and n338;
fineness of 119 n339
value of, from one pound of flax, 120;
intrinsic value of, 124 n352
veil of, presented to Empress Josephine, 123 n351;
smuggled, 361
Venetian wear of, 57 and n192

-------- -lace-makers, point de raccroc of, 120

-------- net, 120 n345

Bruyel, Nicholas de, 111

Buckingham, Duchess of, 345 n1024

Buckinghamshire lace, 378-383;
value of, 402

Buffon, ruffles of, 173

Bulgarini, Francesea, 68 and n213

Bullock, Consul, quoted, 89

Bunt lace, 428

Buoy, lace seized in, 360 n1066

Burano
Alençon point made at, 62, 200
Argentan made at, 62, 208
English thread used at, 394 n1128
number of lace-workers at, 394 n1128
revival of lace industry at, 58-62

Burato, 53

Burgoigne, 205 n573, 216 n594

Burgundy, lace industry of, 255 and n684, n685;
lace-makers from, in London, 373

--------, Duke of (Charles the Bold), 111

--------, Dukes of, inventory of, quoted, 82

--------, Duchess of, 167 n492

Burke, Patrick, 323

Burnet, Bishop, quoted, 13

Burnham (Buckinghamshire), lace industry of, 379

Burning of badly-spun yarn, 432 and n1211

Butterfly and acorn design, 308, 408

Byas, 299 and n815

Byzantine Empire, origin of lace traced to, 45

Cabanillas, cited, 102

Cadenetas, 95

Calderwood, Mrs., cited, 127, 431;
quoted, 118 and n337, 137, 260;
Dresden ruffles of, 262

Caen
black lace of, 226
blonde lace of, patterns, 224;
quality, 224;
rise and fall of industry, 225
Chantilly industry outrivalled by, 215;
Chantilly made at, 224
number of lace-makers employed in (1847), 225;
(after 1848), 228 n614
price of lace of, 224

Cahanet, 226

Calais, machine-made blondes of, 225

Calepino, T., 474

Callot, engravings of, 146

Calthorpe, Lady, 37, 297

Calvados lace industry, 213, 223, 226, 228 and n614, 257 n688

Cambray, Archbishop of, 173 and n508

Cambrensis, Giraldus, cited, 435

Cambury, Lord, 403

Campan, Mme. de, 180 n533

Campane, 34 and n104, n106, 51

Campanner, 343 n1017

Campany, cited, 99

Campos, Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de, quoted, 95

Candy, thread lace from, 38

Canetille, 36

"Canons," 153 and n441

Canossa, Contessa, 469

Cant, Miss Anne, 430 n1207

Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making, cited, 2 n7

Cantu, lace-making at, 66, 80

Capefigue, quoted, 166

Card-sharping aided by ruffles, 171, 351

Cardinals, 356 and n1059

Cardwell, Mr., 384

Carew, Sir G., 308 n870

Carpaccio, lace in pictures of, 47

Carpentier, Madame, 226

Carrêno, lace rare in paintings of, 98

Carrickmacross, lace industry at, 440

Carrouges, 206

Cartisan, 36

Cary, John, quoted, 849 n1325

Castanaga, M. de, 167

Castlebar, lace industry at, 439

Catalonia, blonde made at, 101;
blonde mantillas of, 88, 226

Catgut lace, 343, 430 n1207

Catherine de Bourbon, 144, 482, 494

---------- of Braganza, 43 n137

---------- de Médecis,
bed of, 22
bizette of, 33 n102
Florentine lace probably introduced into France by, 67
lace-making at court of, 140 and n395
needlework of, 11
Vinciolo patronised by, 11, 17

Cattern's Day, 376

Cauellat, Veuve, 476

Cavenne, Citoyen, 137 n390

Cayette, V. P., cited, 140 n397

Cecil, letter from, regarding French tailors, quoted, 307

Cecyll, Richard, 291

Celle, D., 466

Cephalonia, Ionian lace at, 86

Cerceau, A. du, 476

Ceylon, pillow-laces of, 88

Challus, Anne, 184 n540

Chambrières, 8

Champagne, lace industry of, 253-255

Chandos, infant daughter of Duke of, 352 n1046

--------, Lady, 294 n791, 297 n811, 307 n862, 308 n867

Channel Islands, lace industry in, 372 n1098

Channon, Miss Mary, 398

"Chansons a toile", 8 and n29

Chantilly
number of lace-workers at Alençon and, (1851), 257 n688
point tresse made at, 314

---------- lace
black, 226
Caen manufacture of, 224
Genoese imitation of, 75
industry of, 212-215
Saxony lace compared with, 263
Spanish silk laces contrasted with, 103
Spanish and Portuguese imitation of, 106

Charles I. (England)
Carisbrook clothing expenses of, 372 n1097
carpet bag trimmings of, 38, 298
extravagance of, 326, 327 and n950, 328
Great Wardrobe Account, quoted, 253 and n678, n679, 205 n612
marriage accounts, 296
period of, 326-332
picture catalogue of, cited, 296

-------- II. (England)
Collobium sindonis of, 335 and n981
Flanders lace, importation of, prohibited by, 125
foreign lace imported by, 336 and n985
period of, 335-339
silver parchment lace of, 38, 298 and n841

--------, Prince (England), accounts of, cited, 322, 325 n940, n941

-------- V. (Belgium)
cap of, 113
lace-making encouraged by, 113
portrait of, in Quentell's pattern book, 459

-------- VIII. (France), 139 n393

-------- IX. (Sweden), 279

-------- X., 143 n412

-------- the Bold, 111

Charleville lace, 183 n539, 254 and n680

Charlotte, Queen
Armada pattern lace of, 397
British lace worn by, 363, 398
favourite lace of, 128
lace industry started by, 374
sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046

Charmouth, lace-workers at, 395

Charollais, Mlle. de,
inventory of, quoted, 125 n353, 129 n364, 162 n475, 175 n520, 135
ruffles of, 233 n626

Chat, 181 and n536

Château de Madrid, lace factory at, 158, 210 and n584

-------- -Renaud lace, 254

-------- -Thierry, lace industry at, 157 n459, 253

Châtel-sur-Moselle, 251 and n671

Châtelain, Simon, 100 and n287

----------, Zacharie, 259

Chaucer, quoted, 15 and n50

Chaumont, 251 n673

Chauvin, Pierre, 230

Cheney, lace industry at, 384

Chesterfield, Lord, quoted, 358

Cheveux de la reine, 181 and n535

Chevreuse, Madame de, 168

Cheyne lace, 438

Chiavari
_Macramé_ of, 79
tape guipure of, 75

Chicago Exhibition. _See under_ Exhibitions

Chichester, Lady Hamilton, 87 and n262

Chick, Mrs., 407 n1153

Chigi-Giovanelli, Princess, 61

Children as lace-makers, 103 n305, 107, 155, 209, 377, 438

Chili lace, 108

Chimay lace, 134-135

China
drawn work of, 46
silk lace not in demand in, 89

------, lace exchanged for, 349

Choïsy, Abbé de, 167

Christening shirts of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 308 and n872

Christian IV. of Denmark, 68, 272-274

Christina, Queen, 73 n230

Church of England
appointment of parsons of, for reform of lace-making abuses, 331
inventories of, lace mentioned in, 293
ruffs worn by Bishops, 318;
sermons against ruffs, 316

------ of France, extravagance of prelates (Louis XVI.), 182-183

Churchill, Lord, 403

Cibber, Colley, cited, 344 n1021

Cicognara, Count, 467 and n1286

Ciglia family, Maltese lace made by, 88

Cinq Mars, boots and collarette of, 145

Ciprioto, 82 n252

Cistercians, 7

"City Match," quoted, 324

Clarke, Jane, 443 n1233

Claver, Alice, 288

Clayton, Sir Thomas, accounts of, quoted, 350

Clement VII., Pope, 62

-------- IX., Pope, 70

-------- X., Pope, 172 n505

Clément, M., 226

Clermont, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted 128 n363, 195 n560, 207 n578

Clonard Abbey, effigy in, 437 n1222

Clones, lace and crochet industry of, 445

Cluny, Musée de, punto a relievo in, 51

------ lace
Le Puy Fabric, 246 n659
Mirecourt fabric, 252

Coccolia, lace school at, 81 n249

Cochon, cited, 256 n686

Cock (fontange), 423

----, Hieronymus, 493 n1354

Cockscombes, 344

Code Michaud, 148

Coggeshall (Essex), lace made at, 441 n1230

Coigny, Duchesse de, 123 n351

"Col rabattu," 145

Colbert, Chevalier
Aurillac lace of, 248
chief director of trade, 158 n461
death of, 192
development of lace industry by, 154;
extract from letter to M. le Comte d'Avaux, 155
difficulties in establishing lace factories, 158 and n461, n462
fabrics attempted by, 255, 256
fabrics established by, at
Arras, 239 and n644
Aurillac, 247
Château de Madrid, 158, 210 n584
Le Quesnoy, 230
Loudun, 256
Huguenots protected by, 100
inventory of, quoted, 218 n596, 259 n692
Mazarin, correspondence with, concerning lace, referred to, 150-151
ordinance of, 54
point d'Alençon established by, 188
points de France, established by, 33, 111
Raffy, Madame, letter from, quoted, 202

Colbertine, 337, 339 and n996, n997, n998

Colchester, complaints of, regarding foreign lace-makers, 324 n935

Cole, A. S.
cited, 91-92 and n268, 446 n1236;
quoted, 193 n555, 203 n570
Kinsale lace revival due to, 442 and n1232

Collaert, engraving by, 109 n319

Collars, hunting, 328

Collectors of lace, 364

Cologne pattern book, 268

Colombière, Vulson de la, quoted, 73, 149 and n435

Colporteurs, lace sold by, 44 and n142, n143

Colyton
military thieves at, 403
tomb in church of, 403 n1145

Commode. _See_ Fontange

Commonwealth, the, needlework in the time of, 13

Compas lace, 297 and n809

Compton, Lord, cited, 296 n800

Conclave, the holy, laces of, 70

Condé, Princesse de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n355, 161 n468, 168 n496,
169 n497, 174 n519, n520, 195 n558

Congreve, cited, 344 n1021;
quoted, 339

Contarini, Lucretia, 476, 484

Conti, Prince de,
marriage-toilette of, 161-162 and n472
point d'Aurillac cloak of, 248

Contrada del Pizzo, 59

Connet, lace trade at, 270.

Cooke, quoted, 414

Copper lace (St. Martin's), 331 n965

Coral point, 51

Coralline, Point de Venise copied from, 49-50

Cordonnet, 87, 406, 408

Corfu, Greek lace made at, 85

Cork, crochet industry of, 444, 445

"Corona" of Vecellio. _See_ Vecellio

Cotgrave, quoted, 33 n102, 36 n112

Cotton lace, 187

------ weaving, at Ghent, 134

Couronne (picot), 31 and n92

Courtrai, flax grown at, 118 n338

-------- lace. _See under_ Valenciennes lace

Cousin, Jean, 476

Couvin lace, 138 n392

Covenanters, sumptuary enactments of, 424

Coventry blue, 302

Cow-houses, lace worked in lofts over, 224

Cowper, quoted, 364, 370, 379

Coxcombs, 31

Cranfield, Sir Lyonell, cited, 324 n934

Crâponne fabric, 246

Cravat, laced
introduction of, 337
origin of, 42 n135
stock the successor of, 345

Creaden, the Queen of, 437 n1223

Créquy, M. de, 143

------, Madame de, quoted, 175

------, Marquise de, quoted, 173 n511, 250 and n668

Crete, lace manufacture of, 86-87

Crochet, Irish, 444-445

-------- hook used in Genoese guipures, etc., 74

-------- needle, used in Punto di Rapallo, 75 n237

Cromwell, Oliver, dress of, 333, 334

Crown lace, 299 and n814

Croïy, Duc de, 366 n1083

Crusaders, art of lace-making, traced to, 45 n148

Cuença, 246

Cuipure (guipure), 37

Culpepper, Sir John, quoted, 318-319

Cunningham, quoted, 308 n866

Curragh point, 443 and n1233

Curtius, M., 143 and n412

"Custom of the Country" quoted, 324

Cut-work
ecclesiastical use of, 15
Elizabeth's use of, 303-305
Italian, 325
James I.'s time, 322, 325
lace known as, 2
name explained, 19
pall of, used in Dieppe, 25
Ricci's "Last Supper" depicted in, 79 n248
smocks adorned with, 25
toile d'honneur of, use at St. Lo, 25

Cyprus, needlework of, 82

d'Abranthès, Duchesse, 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638

d'Addo, Marquis, 459 n1264, 467 n1287, n1288, 469 n1294, 470, 472, 475,
476 and n1315, 477

Daedalian ruffs, 315 and n895

Daimeries, Mme., quoted, 138 n392

Dalecarlian lace, 68, 281, 282, 338

Dalrymple, Miss Jenny, 263

Dalton, Mother Augustine, 444

Damer, Mr., 364

Dammartin lace, 212

Dangean, quoted, 167, 178

Dantelle (dentelle), first occurrence of word, 490

d'Aranda, Madame, 98 n280

Darned netting, 20, 21

Dartmouth, Lord, 379

Dauphin, ceremony at birth of, 162 n474

Davies, Barber Surgeon, quoted, 70

Davies' _Epigrams_ quoted, 323 n933

Davey, Mrs., 409

Dawson, Mrs., 446 n1235

de la Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357

de Lonlay, Eugène, cited, 208

de Staël, Madame, 180

Deaf and dumb, net lace used by, in Sardinia, 81 n248

Debts for lace, 353 and n1050.

Decker, T., quoted, 315 n895

Defoe, quoted, 43 n140, 171 n503, 377 and n1111, 378, 379, 380 and n1119,
396, 397, 403;
cited, 344

Delaney, Mrs., quoted, 120 n344, 121, 355;
cited, 413 n1161

Denbert, Bishop of Durham, 6

Denmark
cut-work of, 276, 277
embroidered tulle of, 229
grave-clothes, lace adorned in, 275, 366 and n1082
lace industry. (_See also_ Schleswig and Tönder)
export trade, 274 n736
lace postmen, 274, 277
origin of, 272
protected by Christian IV., 274
quality of lace, 275
Wulff's revival of, 276 and n739

Dennistoun, Mrs., 58-59, 487

Denny, Lady Arabella, 437, 438 and n1225, 439 and n1227

Dentelière, work of, 122

Dentelle, definition of term, 27 and n80

-------- à la Reine, 259 and n692

-------- à la Vierge, 220

"Dépit Amoureux" quoted, 32

Derby Alice, Countess of, effigy of, 321 n927

------, Lady, 342

------ rib, 448 n1239

Derbyshire, pillow lace made in, 393

Derode, V., quoted, 236 n630, n633

Desborough, lace industry of, 379

Desmarquets, cited, 219 n603

Desmond, Countess of, 437 n1222

Desnos, Joseph Odolant, quoted, on establishment of point d'Alençon, 155
n455

------, Odolent, quoted, on invention and establishment of point
d'Alençon, 155-157

Despierres, Mme., quoted, 157 n457, n458, 159 n464, 195 n557, 204 n571,
307;
cited, 192 n552, 203

d'Este, Madame Anne Bellorio, 61
family, auctions of, cited, 46

Devonshire
bone pins used in, 294
lace of. _See_ Honiton, Trolly
villages in, noted for lace-making in 1698, 403 n1143;
those now engaged in, 403 n1147

----------, Duke of, coffin of, searched for lace, 360

----------, Duke of, Jacobite lace brought to, 426

Diamond lace, 299-300 and n818

"Diarium Vadstenoense" 278

Didot, F., 487

Dieppe
cut-work, pall used in, 25
lace industry of, 218-220, 223

------ lace, 183 n539

Dieudonné--
quoted, 225 n613, 231;
cited 237 n639

Dijon, Valenciennes made at, 255

Dike, Ric. 319 n918

Dinant muslin-work, 138 n392

Dinghen, Madame, 311

Doddridge, Lady, effigy of, 405

Doge's horn in Italian laces, 66

Dogs as lace-smugglers, 116 and n329

Dolls dressed in French fashions, 170 and n500, n501

"Don Quixote," cited, 98 n281

Donat, Père, 501

Donchéry lace, 254

Doran, Dr., anecdote related by, 186

Dorsetshire lace, 396-398;
value of, 402

Dorstats, Madame Catherine von, 497

Douairière de la Ferté, Duchesse, 175-176

Double ground, 386

Douce, Mrs., cited, 500 n1366

Douglas, Bp., letters of, quoted, 265 and n720

Dover, refugee lace-makers at, 324 n935

"Down," 390

Draper, Mrs., 13

Drawn-work,
method of, 25
Sicilian, 81
South American, 188
wire, 72

Dresden lace, 262, 263, 430 and n1207

Drocheleuse, work of, 122

Droschel, 119

Drouais, 168

Dryden, quoted, 425

Du Barry, Madame
accounts of, quoted, 34 n106, 120 and n341, n343, n344, 126 n356, 129
n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 175 n520, 178 n529, 181 n534, 195, 207 and
n577, 231 and n621, n622, 233 n625, n626
Indian muslin bought by, 179
inventories of, quoted, 213 n592, 250 n666, n667

Du Haillan, 142 n408

Dublin Society, The, 429, 437-439

Dubois, C., cited, 137 n389, 138 n392

------, 468

Duchesse lace, 123

Dulaure, cited, 173 and n513

Dumont, manufactory of, 211

------, Mlle., 105 n312

Dunbar, Mrs., 443

Dunkirk, James II.'s cap in Museum at, 340 and n1004

Duponchel (Du Ponchel), 205, 207 n576

Dupont, M., cited, 204

Duras, Duc de, 207 n577

------, Duchesse de, 213 and n591

Duref Henri, cited, 247

Durham, St. Cuthbert's cope and maniple at, 7;
his grave-clothes, 14, 15, 366

Durie, Lord, engraving of, 423

Dussen, B. v. d., cited, 133 and n378

Duthie, Mlle., 181

Duval, M., 224

Dysart, Countess of, 344 n991

"Each," 391

_Eagle_ (French vessel), seizure of, 101

Earnings and wages of lace-workers
Alençon, 192
Arras (1788), 239;
(1851), 240
Bedfordshire, 377
blonde-workers, 225
Denmark (1848), 277 n741
Devonshire, 414, 416 n1168;
Honiton, 407 and n1153
Dorsetshire, 398
Flemish thread-spinners', 119
France, average (1851), 257 n688;
their savings, 159 n464
Genoa, 77, 78
Mechlin, 127
Mirecourt, 252 n675, 253
Normandy, 223, 228 n614
Northamptonshire (Spratton), 390
Scotland, 434
Spain, 102
Switzerland, 270
Val, 233, 234 n627
Vélay, 244
Ypres Valenciennes, 131 n373

Eaton, John, 336

------, Prestwick, letters from, cited, 98 n282

Ecclesiastical lace
Athenian--for Jewish Church, 86
Burano school allowed to copy, 62
decline of, since the Reformation, 331
Greek, 83
Ionian, 86
Italian, 47 and n154
Katherine of Aragon's work of, 376 and n1108
Maltese, 88
Scotch, 418, 419
Spanish, 90, 92
washing of, 373 n1101

Ecouen lace, 210 n589

Eden, Mrs., 443

Edgithe, Queen, 6

Edict of Nantes, Revocation of
effect on lace industry (France and other countries), 192, 212, 254,
258
settlement of fugitives in Germany, 264-265

Edinburgh Society for Encouraging the Arts and Manufactures of Scotland,
262, 263, 429, 430 and nn

Edward the Elder, daughters of, 6

Edward III.
pins for his daughter's trousseau, 294 n794
thread veils of time of, 285.

Edward IV.
Irish smock of, 436
wardrobe accounts of, quoted, 288

Edward VI., funeral lace of, 293

Effingham, Dowager Lady, 349

----------, Earl of, 364

Egenolffs, C., 470

Egyptians (Ancient), embroidery of, 1

Ekenmark, cited, 280 n748

Elberfeld, 265

Eleanor of Austria, 262 n701

Elgin marbles, designs in, 3

Elizabeth, Princess (wife of Elector Palatine), 71, 325

---------- of Austria (Elisabetta Borbona d'Austria), 495

---------- of Bohemia, 294 n794

---------- of Denmark, 272

----------, Queen
anecdote referring to, 38, 297
cost of lace for revels at court of, 308 n871
cut-work of, 303-305
false hair of, 314 and n894, n895
foreign tastes of, 305, 307, 310
Irish at court of, 435
laces of, 299-300;
lace made from human hair, 313;
Genoa and Spanish lace, 307;
parchment lace, 298;
cost of lace furnished to, 308
New Year's gifts to, 294 n791, 295, 303 n833, 304 n834, n835, n836,
n837, 307 and n862, 308 n867, n870, 310 n875, n876
old clothes of, presented to Anne of Denmark, 320
presents to, from Mary Stuart, 420 and n1184;
from the Baroness Aletti, 421 n1187
ruffs of, 310-313;
316 n901
skill of, in needlework, 500
smock made by, 10 and n32;
smocks of, 308, 408
stocking-frame inventor discouraged by, 448 n1240
wardrobe accounts of, cited, 72;
quoted, 92, 98 n282, 297 and n811, 299 and n814, n815, n816, n817,
300-301 and n820, n821, n824, n826, 302 and n827, 304 n834, n838, 307
and n861, n865, 309 n873, 311 n880, 312 n882, 314 n895, 372 n1098

----------, reign of
christening shirts and bearing cloths of, 308-309
habits of people in, 310 n877
importation of pins (annual) in, 294 n794
lace, use of, in, 300
laced handkerchiefs of, 310 and n874
measures against luxury of the people, 301
sumptuary laws, 306 and n855
value of lace and thread imported (1559 and 1568), 306 and n859
Venice lace of, 48 and n154

---------- of York, Queen, 9 n30, 48, 289

Elliott, Julian, 328

Embroider, Italian and Spanish term for, 45 and n147

Embroidery
Anglo-Saxon, 5-7
Babylonian, Sidonian and Phrygian, 3 and n13
drawn-thread work, 25
ecclesiastical, 4-7.
Egyptian, 1
Greek, 2, 3 and n8
Jewish, 2
Spanish, 103

Embroidered lace, Genoese, 77

Engageantes, 168

Enghien lace, 134

"Engines" for lace-making, 324 n935

England (_for_ counties, towns, etc., _see their titles_)
French fashions, method of obtaining, 170
frugality of nation, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, 310 n877
lace in
account of (_See also_ names of sovereigns), 285 _et seq._
date of establishment of industry, 286-288;
origin of, 111;
centres of, before 1665, 44 n144;
impossibility of competing with Belgium, 138
earliest mention of, 285
Flanders, trade with (1768), 115;
Flemish lace. _See_ that title
foreign, prohibited, 125, 289-290, 341, 347;
imported, 245, 251, 288, 291
smuggling of. _See that title_
Protestant refugees in, trades of, 297-298
Reformation, decline of ecclesiastical lace since, 331
sumptuary laws. _See that title_
Vinciolo published in, 482

Engrêlure, 31, 168 n496

Entoilage, 30, 250

Épinal, 251

Equipage de bain, 168

Eric XIV. (Sweden), 307

Ericksholm, 280

---------- Castle, 279

Erikson, Gustaf, 280

Erzgebirge lace, 263

Essex, Earl of, 401

Este, Madame Anne Belloris, d', 61

---- family, archives of, cited, 46

Etrepagny lace, 213 n589

Eu lace, 183 n539, 218, 221-222

Eugénie, Empress, 198

Evans, Mrs., 308 n869

Evelyn, quoted, 13, 43, 168 n496, 338, 339;
cited, 57

Exeter, Bishop of, 316

------, Elizabeth, Duchess of, 285 n755

Exhibitions
Chicago World's Fair
Honiton lace at, 416 n1169
Italian lace at, 46 n150
Colonial and Indian Exhibition (1886),
Cyprian lace at, 82
Industry, 1808, point d'Argentan at, 208
(1851), Alençon flounce at, 197-198;
lace industry developed since, 392
(1855) (Paris)
Alençon point dress at, 198
equipage of King of Rome at, 196
needle-point dress at, 245
(1859) (French). Report--cost of Brussels lace, 119 n339
(1862) (International)
Spanish exhibits at, 103-104
threads, comparative fineness of, 119 n339
Wadstena lace at, 280
1867 (Paris)
Alençon point dress at, 200
Burano laces at, 58
Honiton lace at, 410
macramé shown at, 79
Mechlin lace at, 125
oyah at, 87
point gaze at, 123
Valenciennes lace at, 131 and n373
1874 (International)
Austrian lace at, 268
Brussels lappet at, 411
Russian towels at, 283
Valenciennes lace at, 131
1889, point d' Alençon at, 201
1900 (Paris), 268

Eyesight, effect of lace-making on, 112 n324

Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 333

Fairs, 43 and n136, n137, n140, 326 n945

Falbala, 167 and n492

Falcon, T., 246

Fallals, 350 and n1043

Falling bands, 321 n928, 322, 326, 327, 334, 336

Fambri, Signor, 61

"Fameuse poupée," 170

Fanciulle, 462

Fanshaw, Lady, quoted, 333

Farbeck, John, 300

Favier-Duboulay, correspondence of, with Colbert, re lace industry at
Alençon, 155 and n454, 189

Feather-stitch, 8

Fécamp lace, 218

Félibien, D. M., quoted, 141 n402

Félice, G. de, quoted, 150 n437

Félin Narciso, quoted, 91, 99

Felkin, Mr., cited, 447

Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 92, 93, 96

Feret quoted, 219 and n604

Ferguson, Mr., cited, 250 and n665

Fernandez, Don Manuel, 102

Ferrara
archives of, quoted, 46 and n150
Venetian lace-worker at, 78 n243

Fielding quoted, 354 n1053

Filet brodé à reprises, 20

Fillesae, Marie, 157 n458

Fillings, 31

Filo di freta (_See also_ Aloe thread), 79 n245

Firenzuola cited, 46 n152, 47, 57 n172;
quoted, 66 and n207

Fisher, Bishop, 292

Fitz-Geoffrey (Geffery), Henry, quoted, 317 n908, 332

Flanders
emigration of lace-makers from, preventive legislation, 111-112;
emigrants in London, 373;
in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire, 375 and n1105;
in Devonshire, 399 and nn, 400 n1140;
expelled from England (1572), 306
lace. _See_ Flemish lace.
lace school in, description of, 114-115
Spanish imports of dentelles d'Angleterre from, 98
thread imported from, complaint regarding, 324 n935
water-glass reflectors used in, 390 n1125

--------, East, lace of, 133-134

--------, West
lace workers of, 133 and n378
Valenciennes lace of. _See_ Valenciennes Flax
age of, 259 n697
cotton substituted for, 187
spinning of, in damp cellars, 405

Fleming, Lady, 10

Flemish lace. (_See also_ Belgium _and_ Brabant)
arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365
Barcelona lace imitated from, 91, 99
black lace exported, 117 n330
cargo of smuggling vessel (1678), 117
coffin containing, 61
Danish imitation of, 275
England
bribes for Jacobites in, 351 n1045
exportation to, prohibited, 125, 341
fashionable in, 318, 325, 327, 340
imitations in, 384, 404;
Honiton reproductions, 411, 416
trade with (1768), 115
France, popularity in (Louis XIV.), 150;
trade (seventeenth century), annual value of, in passemens, 209 n583;
prohibited, 142
importance of industry of, 111
Liège, 136-137
"Malines," a term for, 125
origin of, 109
types of, 115-116
white work, 294 and n791

Flemish names in Colyton (Devon), 403 n1145

Fleurens, 270

Fleury, Cardinal, quoted, 176

Florence
gold lace from, Spanish exclusion of, 92
Greek lace made at, 85
industrial schools in, lace work of, 81 n248
lace industry of, account of, 66-68;
"fine dantelle de," 27
Le Puy, imports from, 245 n657

Florentine merchants, allowed to trade in England (circ. 1546), 291

Florini, M., 488

_Flying Postman_ advertisement in, 129

"Flys," 416 n1170

Foillet, J., 489, 490

Fonneuse, work of, 122

Fontange (Commode)
"cock" the Scotch term for, 423
description of, 168 n486, 342, 350 n1043
extinction of mode, 166, 348 and n1035
story of, 164

Fontana, Lavinia, lace in picture by, 47 n153

Fontenay, lace, 212 n589

Fontenelle le Liqueur, 229 and n615

Fonthill, sale of lace at, 162 n475

Foote, quoted, 171 n503

Footing, 31, 168 n496

Forbes, Miss Betsey, 432 n1209

Forçade, M. de la, cited, 340 n1004

Force, P. de la, cited, 254 and n682

Foresto, I., 471

Fortunato, P. A., 500

Foskewe, Sir John, 22

_Four P's, The_, cited, 43 n139

Fournier, quoted, 209 n583

"Fourpenny Spot," 372 n1095

Fowke, Mr., cited, 6 and n23

Fowler, Mrs., lace school of, 416 and n1169

Fozzi, P. P., 491

France. _For_ districts, towns, etc., _see their titles_
bobbin net introduced into, 187
customs of French ladies, 168-170
états Généraux (1789), action of, regarding lace, 183
extravagant cost of lace ornaments (Louis XIV.), 153
Fairs in, 43 n136
Fashions
fashion dolls, 170 and n500, n501
Italian influence on, 139 and n393
Louis XIV., under, 167
first appearance of lace in, 139 n393
First Empire
Brussels lace at court of, 123
lace industry under, 184
morning costume under, 185
point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566
Florentine lace used in (1545), 67
imports of lace from, to England, forbidden by Queen Anne, 347
Italian guipures exported to, 75
Italy, relations with (16th century), 476
lace industry in. _See_ French lace industry
lace-makers from, brought to teach Scotch girls, 428
ladies, addiction of, to needlework, 9, 24;
as lace-makers, 163
men as embroiderers in, 13
point d'Espagne consumed in, 90;
made in, 100
points de Venise from, 54
Quintain named from Brittany town, 19
lace industry improved by, 383
refugees from, to Channel Islands, 372 n1098;
to England, 324 n935
Revolution in, effect of, on lace trade, 183 and n539, 223, 249, 368,
408
Second Empire, point d'Alençon patterns under, 199
Spanish imports of lace from, 101
sumptuary laws in, 138 and n354, n355, 147 and n429, 149, 154 and n451
tariff (1664), Liège lace mentioned in, 137
war with, effect of, on English lace industry, 386, 387
yellow starch, attitude towards, 318 and n909

France and Navarre, Queen of, pattern book dedicated to, 493

Franceschi, Francesco di, 475, 484

Francis I.
Aurillac lace of, 247
pattern book dedicated to, 461

Frankfort-on-the-Maine
fair at, 43 n136, 326 n945
pattern book published at, 267

Frano, G., 477

Frederick, Prince of Wales, 354

---------- IV., 274

---------- William of Brandenburg, 264

French lace industry
centres of, before 1665, 44 n144
cheap lace, 187 and n546
Colbert's development
establishment and history of the company (1668-1675), 157-158
establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157
immigration of Venetian workers, 159 n465
principal centres, 159 n464
pupils sent to Venice, 154-155 and n454
First Empire, under, 184
foreign trade
Bruges, annual value of, with, 241;
with Flanders, 209 n583;
Valenciennes trade with Belgium, 132 n376
Germany, with, 265
prohibition of, with Flanders, 142
rivalry of Holland in, 258
smuggling from Belgium, 116;
from Switzerland, 270
statistics regarding (18th century), 160 n466
number of lace-makers in (present day), 188;
table of (1851), 257 n688
Paris lace-workers, confirmation of statutes of, 150 n437
pattern books, 144 and n420, n421, n422, n423
patterns imitated in Denmark, 275
pillow lace manufacture, extension of (17th century), 159
point d'Espagne, 100
Protestants prohibited from selling lace, 150 n437
varieties of lace made in (1665), 33-35
width of lace restricted, 152-153

Freyburg, 268

Freytag, G., quoted, 265 n718

Friesland hens, ladies likened to, 342

Frondeurs, extravagance of, 150

Froschover, Christopher, pattern book of, 271

Fugio lace, 74

Fuller, quoted, 378, 401

Furnesse, Sir Henry, 344, 347

Fuseaux, dentelle à, 32 n98

Gabrielle de Bourbon, 8 n28

----------, Madame, 49, 142, 143 and n413, n414, n415

Gaguef lace, 281

_Gan, Le_, quoted, 24

Gantes, Mlles., 250

Garden, Lord, quoted, 119

Garnica, John de, 113 n325

Garnier, Joseph, cited, 255 n685

Garnitures de lit, 174 and n519, n520

Garters
Queen Elizabeth's cost per pair, 301
trimmed with point, 145

Gaston, Duke of Orleans, 8 n27

Gaudronnées collerettes, 17

Geneva, rivalry of, with Mirecourt, 252

Genoa
Albergo de' Poveri, macramé made at, 79
collars of, 74
earnings of lace-workers, 77, 78
embroidered lace of, 77;
embroidered tulle, 229
gold work of, 47, 72
guipures of, 74
lace of
Cardinal Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151
Honiton reproduction of, 411
point de Gênes, 41, 42, 72, 73 and n230, 74
Queen Elizabeth's, 307 and n865
lace trade in, chiefly pillow, 47, 74;
decline of, 74
silk work of, 72
sumptuary laws in, 73
Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225

Genoa, Duchess of, 78 n244

Gentili family, bridal veil made for, 78

Geometrical patterns
cuffs of (Queen Mary's), 113
Cretan, 86
Greek lace, 20, 85
ruffs of, 316
Swedish, 25
Vecellio's, 111
Vinciolo's, 18

George I.
Mechlin cravat of, 126 and n361
period of, 351-353
wardrobe account of, 240 and n645

------ II., period of, 354-357

------ III.
English manufactures protected by, 359, 363 and n1068, 381
period of, 363-370
sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046

------ IV., wardrobe of, 364 n1073

Geharts, C., 501

Germany
fairs in, 43 n136, n140
guipures imported into, 36
lace imported into, 245, 251, 254
lace industry
centres of, before 1665, 44 n144
export trade with France, 265
North and South
Edict of Nantes Revocation--emigration of fugitives into, 264-265
religion of lace-workers, 264
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, 264
Nuremberg (_See that title_)
origin of, 111
pattern-books, 266-268
Saxony (_see that title_)
luxury, outbreak of, 265-266

Geslin, Simon, 193

_Gespeldewerkte kant_, 32 n98

Ghent lace
Brussels lace compared with, 118
manufacture of, 133-134
trade replaced by cotton-weaving, 134
Valenciennes made at Ghent, character of, 231 n624

Ghisolieri, La Signora Silveria Rossi, 484

Gibbons, Grinling, lace carvings of, 367 and n1088

Gibson, Sir Alexander, engraving of, 423

------, Miss Mary, 438

Gigliucci, Countess, fragment of drawn work possessed by, 69

Gilbert, Madame, 155 and n455, 156, 157 and n458

Gimp
Brussels lace, in, 406
method of making, 33
silk, at Ragusa, 84

Gioiello, 486

Giraldini, Catherina, 500

Gisors lace industry, 209, 213 n589, 215

Glairo, Mlle. U., 235

Glandore, Lord, 436

Glen, Jean de, 136, 482, 488 and n1338

----, Miss, 431 n1209

Gloucester, Duchess of, lace collection of, 369

Gloves, laced, 337 and n991

Goats' hair lace, 245

Godard, Jean, quoted, 24, 146 n425

Goderonné, term explained, 17 n57

Godric, 6

Gohory, Anne, 183 n540

Golbertain (Colbertine), 339 n996

Golconda, King of, 322 n928, 329 and n958

Gold lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace)
Arras, of, 240
England, imported to
fifteenth-sixteenth centuries, 288, 289, 307
monopoly in, under James I., 318
prohibited, by Queen Anne, 349;
by George II., 355 n1057;
confiscation and burning of, 359
France, popularity in, 139, 141, 146, 154;
of Paris, 211-212
Genoa, wearing prohibited in, 73
Hamburg, of, 264
Holland, introduction into, 259
India, imported into, 322 n928, 329 and n958
Ireland, importation to, prohibited, 439
Jewish manufacture of, 92
Lyons, of, 256
Ragusa, at, 84
Russia, of, 283
Scotland, wearing in, prohibited, 422
Sicily, of, 80
Spain, of, 92, 100-102, 248
Sweden, of, 280
Zurich, of, 271

---- guipure work, Swedish, 277-278

---- purles, 330

---- thread
duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328
Italian (fourteenth century), 72

---- wire, protest by handspinners of, 335

Golden Horn, 273

Goldoni, cited, 57 n192

Goldsmith, quoted, 70 n218

Gomberdière, Marquis de la, quoted, 209 and n582

Gonzales, Don Manuel, cited, 380 and n1120, 403 n1146

Gooding, James, 413, 414

Gorget (whisk), 334

Gormont, 464

Goudronné, term explained, 17 n57

Gozo, Maltese lace made at, 88

Grafton, Duchess of, 344 n1021, 349 n1037

Gramite, 46 n150

Grammont lace, 134

Granada, lace alb in cathedral of, 92, 93

Granson, battle of, 111

Grave-clothes
Duke of Alva's, 366 n1085
Ionian lace sold from, 86
lace decorations of, 365-367
St. Cuthbert's, 14, 15, 366

Gravelle, attempt to establish fabric by, 207

Great Marlow
bone lace trade of, 319
lace school at, 378

Great Wardrobe Accounts, where kept, 299 n816

Greek lace. (_See also_ Cyprus _and_ Ragusa)
Devonshire imitation of, 414 n1165
Italian cut-work so called, 20
Milan point, 65
reticella so called, 50, 85

Greeks (ancient), embroidery of, 2, 3 and n8

Green, quoted, 296

------ silk lace, 291 n783

Greene, Mrs., quoted, 321 n926

Gremial, 70 n217

Grey, Lady Jane, anecdote of, 38, 297

Grillé, 30 n89

Gripsholm, portrait of Queen Elizabeth at, 307

Gropari (punto a gropo), 52

Gros point de Venise. _See_ Point de Venise, rose point

---- René, 32

Groslay lace, 210, 213 n589

Ground
absent in certain laces, 31
kinds of, 30
round, 39

Gruner, Mr., cited, 476 n1316, 487 n1335, 489

Gruuthus mansion, collection at, 138

Gueuse, 33, 34, 41, 42

Guibray fair, 43 n136

Guipure
Flemish, 123, 133
Genoese, 74
Honiton (modern), 409, 410
Maltese, 88
method of making, materials, uses, 35-40
modern, 39, 40
parchment lace probably English term for, 37-38
point de Venise, 49
tape, 39, 75
Turkish, 87

Gunning, Miss (Duchess of Hamilton), 425 n1199, 428, 429

Gurbert, cited, 219 n602

Gustavus Adolphus, 282

Gustaf Vasa, 279, 280

Guyard, Sieur Mathieu, 204-205

Guyenne, annual consumption of Le Puy lace in, 245 n657

Haag, cited, 265 n714, 269 n725

Haarlem thread, 216 n595, 223 n608, 245, 259 and n695, n697

Hailstone, Mrs., 23

Hainault, laces, 134 _et seq._;
lace flowers, 121

Hair
false, of Queen Elizabeth's time, 314 and nn
fashion of wearing, 341
lace made from, 313;
horse-hair used in Alençon, 194;
goats'-hair and rabbits'-hair lace, 245
wigs, 336, 349

Hal, flax grown at, 118

Haliwell, quoted, 297 n809

Halle lace, 265

Hamburg point, 264

Hamilton, Anne, Duchess of (Miss Gunning), 425 n1199, 428, 429

--------, Lady Jane, 123 n351

Hamilton lace, 430

-------- net-work (modern), 434 n1216

Hamlet on the French stage, 186

Hammond, machine-net invented by, 447

Hand, Mrs., 445

Handkerchiefs, laced, 310 and n874, 337

Hangkow, lace made in, 89

Hanmer, Sir Thomas, 349 n1037

Hanover fabrics, 265

Hanslope lace industry, 380 n1119

Harefield church, sculptured lace on effigy in, 321 n927

Harent, Ignace, 230

Harrison, Major, rich dress of, 333

Hartruide, Madame, 279

Hartshorne, Albert, cited, 321 n927

Hatfield, old needlework at, 11

Hathaway family, embroidered bed linen of, 325 n941

Hauslaub, General von, 263

Havre lace, 183 n539, 217 n595, 218;
number of lace-makers (1692), 216, 218

Hay, Lord, 64

Hayman, Mrs., 410

Head, R. E., quoted, 391 n1127

Headdresses (_See also_ Fontange)
Louis XIV. styles, 164-166
mignonette lace used for, 35
prices of "heads," 348
Roman, 165 n486

"Heller," 391

Helmin, Fr. Margaretha, 502

Henderson, Anne, 430

Heneage, George, 346

Henrietta Maria
inventory of, cited, 29 and n87, 146 n426
present from, to Anne of Austria, 330 and n961

Henry II. (England), 37, 202 and n569

-------- (France), introduces lace ruff, 139, 140 and n393, 262 n701

Henry III. (England), 37, 43;
portrait in Pattern Book, 480

---------- (France), 140 and n396, 141

Henry IV. (France)
fashion dolls sent by, to Marie de Médicis, 170 n501
Isle of Paris industry, probable connection with, 210
measures of, against luxury of dress, 141-142 and n405
shirt worn by, when assassinated, 142-143 and n412

------ VI., laces in fashion in time of, 286 and n761

------ VII., lace of time of, 288, 289 and n772