Chapter XVIII: Part 2: , 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in (3)

------ VIII.
Act for the true making of pins, 294 n794
foreign lace allowed in England by, 67, 291
inventory of, cited, 372 n1098;
quoted, 104
lace of, 64, 289, 291-292 and n772
sumptuary laws of, 436 and n1220
wardrobe account of, quoted, 289 and n768, n769

------, Prince (1607), 296 n798

Herault, Chancellor, 143 and n416

Herbert, Miss, 416

Herbouville, cited, 131 n371

Herculaneum, drawn wire lace found at, 72

Hergosse, M. de, 177 n525

Hesse, Landgrave, French fugitives received by, 265 and n711

Hieronimo, Fra., 469

High Wycombe, lace industry of, 380

Hippisley, Sir John Cox, quoted, 329;
veil bequeathed to, 421

Hispano-Moresque point de Gênes frisé, 74

Hoche, General, 13

Hoffmann, Hans, 469

Holcroft, Mr., 169 n499

Hölesom, 280

Holidays in Roman Catholic countries, 102 n302

Holland
Dutch extravagance in lace, 260
Haarlem thread, advantage of, to, 259 and n695, n697
lace imported into, 251, 254
lace industry in, 258-260 and n689
rivalry with French lace trade, 258

Hollie work, 325 and n939

Hollow lace, 299 and n816

Holme, Randle, cited, 31, 344;
quoted, 251, 296 n799, 339

Holstein, daughter of Duke John of, 275

Holyrood Palace, lace trimmed basket in, 420

Honfleur lace, 183 n539, 218

Honiton, lace school at, 414

-------- lace
account of, 399-411
bobbins and pillows used in, 415 n1166
Bruges lace a rival to, 133
guipure, 40
Indian contrasted with, 89
Japanese imitations of, 417
point duchesse compared with, 123

-------- lace-makers, skill of, 417 n1171

Hope, Sir Thomas, portrait of, 423

Horsehair used in making Alençon, 194

Hôtel Rambouillet, dressed dolls of, 170

Hove, Callys de, 306

Howel's Letters, quoted, 317 n906

Hubert, Soeur, cited, 220 n606

Hugo, Victor, quoted, 135, 164;
cited, 136 n384

Humphrey, Thomas, 401

Hungarian lace, 268

Hungerford, Sir Edward, 395

Hunt, Susanna, 438

Hurdle, Mary, 395

Hutchins, quoted, 396 n1133

Hutchinson, Colonel, 333

----------, Mrs., Memoirs of, cited, 12

Hutton, Sir Timothy, 71

Iberian lace, 104

Ile de France. _See_ Isle de France

India
lace exported to, 241, 251, 253, 322 n928, 329 and n958
pillow-laces of, 88 and n263, 89

India Museum, pillow laces in, 89

Indian muslin, 179-180

------ work of Denmark, 275

Innishmacsaint, 446

Innocent IV., Pope, 7

Inquisition, lace-trimmed banner of, 100

Insertion, 388

Ionian Isles
lace manufacture of, 85
lace from tombs of, 365

Ipsden, Vicar of, MS. in possession of, 286 n761

Ireland
Bath and Shirley School, 440
club against "foreign fopperies," 438
Dublin Society, the, 429, 437, 439
lace industry in, 436-446;
Maltese guipures made in, 88;
Irish point, 443 and n1233
prize offered by, for Dresden point, 262
sumptuary laws in, 435, 436 and n1220
yellow dye of, 307, 435, 436

Iron Mask, 166 n490

Isabella, Infanta, 113

--------, Princess (Sweden), 279 n746

"Isabelle" tint, 121

Ischia lace, 71, 263 and n705

Isle de France
lace industry in
centres of (17th century), 209 and n582, 210
Chantilly, 212-215
cheap laces, 210
Dumont's fabric, 211
Huguenots engaged in, 209
Spanish imports of lace from, 99

Israel, J., 469

Italians, dishonesty of, in lace trade (Henry VII.'s time), 48, 67, 288

Italy (_For_ towns, etc., _see their titles_)
France, relations with, 16th century, 476
invention of lace claimed by, 109;
of point lace, 45
lace imported by, 245, 251 n670
lace of (_See also_ Point _and_ Punto)
centres of manufacture before 1665, 44 n144
England, fashionable in, 318;
imitated in, 416 n1169, 417
Greek lace manufacture, centres of, 85
Points in relief of, counterfeits of, 105
Spanish point attributed to, 93, 97
lace schools of, 81 n249
revolutions in, lace seized during, 51 and n175
silk gimp specimens from, 85
Swiss lace from, origin of, 269
white thread made in, 49 n165

Jabot, 172

Jacobites, 425, 426

James I.
gold purle manufacture prohibited by, 319 and n921
Great Wardrobe Account, 311 n878, 317 and n903, 318 nl7
Honiton lace industry in time of, 401
lace of, 64
monopolies granted by, 318-319, 378
period of, 315-326
ruffs under, 315-318

------ II.
Edinburgh visited by, 425
period of, 340

------ V. (of Scotland), 372 n1098, 418 and n1172

------ VI. (of Scotland), 422 and n1195

------, Jacques, 205

Jane Seymour, 292

Japan, Honiton lace imitated in, 417

Jean lace. _See_ Genoa lace

Jerphanion, Sieur, 244

Jersey, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097

Jesuit lace, 445 and n1234

Jesuits, inventory of, cited, 331

Jesurum, Cav. Michelangelo, 62

Jew stick, 491 and n1349

Jewellery of 18th century, 346

Jews
Athenian lace used by, 86
embroidery of (ancient), 2
gold and silver lace made by, 92 and n270

Jingles of bobbins, 391 n1127

Johan Adolf, Prince, 282

Johnson, Dr., quoted, 367

Jointeuse, work of, 122

Jolly, Margareta, 348

Jonson, Ben, quoted, 43 n139, 302, 313 n890, 316 and n922, 318 n910,
n912, 327

Josephine, Empress, 123 n351, 177 n526

Jours, 31

Judith of Bavaria, 5

Junius, Hadrianus, 114 n327

Junot, Madame. _See_ Abrantès, Duchesse d'

Jurdaine, Mary, 306

Jutland lace industry, 274

Katherine of Aragon, Queen
Bedfordshire lace-industry attributed to, 375 and n1106, n1107, 376
needlework of, 9, 10 and n32
portrait of, 129 n367
Spanish fashions introduced by 10 n32, 310

----------, Queen (wife of Charles II.), 43

---------- Parr, Queen, 10 n34

Keck, 423

Keller, Dr. Ferd, 270 n728

Kenmare, lace industry of, 443, 444

Kennedy, Tristram, 440

Kettering, lace industry of, 384

Killigrew, quoted, 318 n908

Kilravock, Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of, 425 n1198

Kinsale, lace industry at, 422 n1187

Knight, cited, 396

------, Miss, quoted, 264

Knole, old needlework at, 11

Knotted fringe, 13 and n47

-------- lace, 52, 68

Knox, Miss Jane, 438

Koehler, statuette by, 262

Königsmarck, Aurora, lace in tomb of, 366

La Boord, Madame, 43

La Chaise-Dieu, lace industry at, 249

"La Fontange," story of, 164

La Mancha, lace factory at, 102

La Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357

La Perrière, 155 n454, 157 n458

"La Providence" nuns, 226

La Vallière, 154, 464 n1280

Laborde, cited, 151 n438

Lace (_See also_ Old lace)
Biblical meaning of term, 2
definition of term, 26
foreign equivalent of term, 26 n77
manufactures of, before 1665, 44 n144
parts of, 30
point and pillow, 32

---- Association, aims of, 393

Laced handkerchiefs, 310 and n874

Lace-makers, ill-health of, 415

Lacis
Aurillac, 248
book of (1587), 18
definition of, 20 and n61, 21
_Don Quixote_, mentioned in, 98 n281
German, 264
Punto a maglia quadra, 52
Sicilian, 81
Tuscan, 68

Ladies as lace-makers, 163, 337, 355, 373, 374 and n1103

Ladomie, M., cited, 170 n501

Laffemas, quoted, 209 n583

Laid work, 301

Laimoxen, Balthasar, 489

Lalande, cited, 64

Lalma, 246

Lamb represented in lace, 21

Lamballe, Princesse de, 213

Lappets. _See_ Barbe

Larkin, Thomas, 312

Laroche, lace made at, 137

Larruga, cited, 101

Lassels, cited, 70;
quoted, 73

Latomus, Sigismund, 267, 491, 492

Lauber, Miss Jacobina, 282

Laulne, E. de, 476

Launceston, lace-making at, 371 n1094

Laval, Geneviève, 183 n540

Laybach, 268

Le Prince, 465

Le Puy
lace industry of
cheap laces, 246
descriptions of lace of, 245
export trade, 245;
value of annual export, 245 and n657
Haarlem thread used in, 245
import duties decreased, 244 and n653
numbers employed in, 242;
(1851), 257 n688;
in making Valenciennes, 245
sumptuary laws (seventeenth century), effect of, on, 243
lace schools of, 246 and n659
museum at, 246
Valenciennes lace at, 230 and n619

Le Quesnoy lace, 157 n459, 230

Lead, bobbins made of, 74 n235

Leber, M., cited, 487 n1336

Lee, Rev. William, 448 n1240

Lefébure, A.
blondes mates exported by, 226
point d'Argentan revived by, 208
quoted, 75 n237, 155 n453, 158 n463, 159 n464, 194, 200;
cited, 228, 250, 269 n724
teaching improved by, 227

Leicester, Countess of, 330

Leipsic, fair, 196 and n563; fabrics (1685), 265

Lennox, Countess of, 314

------, Duke of, 419 and n1176

Léonard, 181

Lepage, M., 134

L'Estoille, P. de, quoted, 141 n399

L'Estrange, Sir Thomas, 290

_Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain_, quoted, 97-98

Leu, Sieur de la, manufactory of, 205-206

Liedts, Baroness, 138

Liège lace
account of industry, 136-137
point de Sedan, connected with, 254
price of (1701), 136 n386

Lierre
Mechlin lace made at, 125
pictures in St. Gomar, 109 n317

Light reflectors, bottles used as, 390 and n1125

Liguria, guipures of, 74

Lille
lace
compared with Spanish lace, 103;
with Arras, 235, 240;
with Valenciennes, Brussels and Mechlin, 237
cost of thread, 237 and n637
England, popularity in, 237 and n640;
Bedfordshire lace called "English Lille," 385
ground, 236-237
modern, 238
lace-industry
antiquity of, 235
decline of, 238
dress of lace-makers, 235 and n630
French duty on lace (1761), 237 n635
mignonette made (1665), 35
numbers employed in (1723), 237 n640;
(1788), 238, 257 n688
rivalry with Mirecourt, 252
value of (1788), 238
lace-workers, daily amount produced by, 233
thread, fineness of, 119 n339;
price of, 192 n553, 237 and n637;
export of, to Scotland, 432

Limerick lace, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231, n1232;
lace school, 442

Limousin, 250

Lincoln, maiden assize at, 338 n991

Linen
embroidery of, 14
macramé, 79 and n248

Lisbon, lace factories at, 105

Lisle, Lady, 290 and n780

Loch, David, quoted, 433 and n1214;
cited, 434

Locke, quoted, 430

Loisel, Franç., Phelyplaux, 125 n354, 174 n520

Lombard peasants, lace worn by, 64

London
foreigners in (1571-1688), 129 n366, 299 n817, 306 and n853;
complaint of women against introduction of foreign merchants, 286;
complaints against foreign lace-makers, 324 n935
lace-making in, 373

------, Bishop of, sermon by, against ruffs, quoted, 316 and n899

------ _Chronicle_, cited, 4

------ _Gazette_, quoted, 11 n39, 126

Long Island, lace-making by Protestant settlers in, 372 n1099

Lonlay, Eugène de, cited, 208

Lonrai (Lonray), lace factory at, 155 n455, 156 and n457;
sale of stock, 196

------, Marquise de, 157 n457

_Lord Thomas_ (ballad), quoted, 15

L'Orme, Marion de, quoted, 125

Lorraine, lace industry (_see also_ Mirecourt), 251 and n672, n673;
Mignonette made (1665), 35;
numbers employed (1851), 257 n688

--------, Queen Louise de, 144

Lost property, advertisements for, 337 and n990, 338 and n992, 342 n1010

Loucelles, Abbé Suhard de, 226

Loudun, 256

Louis XI., 139 n393

------ XIII.
collar made at Venice for, 194
death of, 149
Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618
luxury and fashions of time of, 144-147

------ XIV.
census of (1684), 131
cravats presented to ambassadors by, 163
death of, effect on Alençon industry, 192
fashions of reign of, 161 _et seq._
fête at Marly, 163
Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618
gold and silver lace of period of, 154
Paris lace commerce under, 211
sumptuary laws of, 152

------ XV.
Court of, 172 and n505
fashions under
black lace masks, 177
jabots, 172-173
mourning, 178
relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174
ruffles, 171-173
point d'Alençon patterns under, 198-199 and n566
trousseau of eldest daughter of, 176

------ XVI.
fashions under, 179-181
phraseology of time of, 181
point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566
ruffles of, 172 n508

Louisa, Queen (Sweden), 279

Louise de Vaudemont, Queen, 18, 478, 480

Louvain, pictures and altar piece at, 109, 110 and n317

--------, Widow, attempt of, to establish manufacture at Mortagne, 206

Louvres, lace-making at, 209

-------- en-Parisis lace, 212 n589

Lovat, Lady, 426 n1202

Low Countries. _See names of countries_

Lowndes, cited, 497 n1360, 500

--------, Richard, 380

Lubec, 264

Lucca, gold lace, 92

Lude, Duchesse de, 167 and n495

Luxada, cited, 75

Luxembourg, M. de, 167

----------, Maréchale de, 180

Luynes, Duc de, Memoirs of, quoted, 174 and n518, 176 n522

Luzarches lace, 212

Lydgate, quoted, 305

Lygum Kloster, 274 n736, 276 n738

Lyme Regis, lace industry of, 396-398

Lyons lace, 256

Lysons, cited, 384, 396; quoted, 405, 408

Mabbie, 423

Macaulay, John, 439 n1227

McCulloch, cited, 384

----------, E., cited, 224 n610

McCullow, Miss Martha, 438

Mache, 22 n70

Machine net, introduction of, 408

Machinery--"engines" of foreigners for lace-making, 324 n935

Maclean, Rev. William, 442, 443

McPherson, quoted, 112 n324

Macramé, 52, 79 and n247

Madden, Sir Fred., quoted, 297 n812

Madeira, laces of, 106, 107 and n316

Madras, Maltese-like lace made in, 88 n263

Madrid, lace factory at, 102

Magnus, Prince (Sweden), 280

Maidstone, complaints of, regarding imported Flemish thread, 324 n935

Mailly, Madame, 250

Maine, Madame de, 167

Maintenon, Madame de, 168, 183;
letter to, quoted, 99;
lace factory of, 163;
letter from, quoted, 172 and n506

_Malcontent_, quoted, 322

Malines exhibition, voile de bénédiction at, 195 n561, 251 n674

-------- lace. _See_ Mechlin lace

Malta, grave-clothes lace-trimmed at, 365

Maltese lace
account of industry, 87 and n262, 88
Danish manufacture of, 275
English manufacture of, 392, 393, 414 n1165
Greek lace similar to, 86
Guipure, 40
Madeira manufacture of, 107 n316
Saxon manufacture of, 263

Man, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1096

Manchester thread, 119 n339

Manchettes. _See_ Ruffles

Manegetti di ponto Fiamengo, 111

Manilla grass thread-work, 89 n265

Mantegna, Andrea, 467

Mantillas, 226

Manzoni, Count, cited, 488 n1340

Mar, Countess of, 419 and n1176

Marcello, Countess Andriana, 61

Marche lace, 68, 138 n392

Marcq, Catherine de, 157 n458, 158 n460, 190

Mare, de la, cited, 148 n431, 152 n440

Margaret of Austria, 23 n74

Margherita, Queen of Italy, 61, 62

Margot, Reine, 11, 22, 49, 141, 142

Marguerite de France, 11 n36, 22, 27, 33 n102

Maria d'Aragon, portrait of, in pattern book, 497

------ Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, 491

Marie Antoinette
autograph letter, referred to, 213
fans and laces distributed by, 180
fashion at court of, 179-180
gazette of (1782), 181 n537
point de Marli worn by, 225
sale of lace of, 183

------ Louise, Brussels lace presented to, 124;
lace trousseau of, 184, 196

------ Theresa, 259 and n699

Marnef, Hierosme de, 496

Marillac, Maréchal de, 147 n428, 265 n715

Marini, cited, 58

Marlborough, lace industry at, 395

Marli, 180 and n532

Marly, fête at, 163

Marriott, William, 380

Marryat, Captain, cited, 413;
lace industry assisted by, 410

--------, Mrs., 500 n1365

--------, Miss Cecilia, 410

Marsan, Comte de, 210 and n585

------, Mlle. de, 211

Mary, Princess, daughter of George II., 348

---- I.
accounts of, quoted, 297
gift of Spanish work to, 10 n32;
Flanders work to, 294
interment of, 180
present to Lady Calthorpe, 297
ruffs of, 310
sumptuary laws, 293

---- of Burgundy, 135

----, Queen of Hungary, 113

---- de Médicis
collarette of, 143-144
death of, 149
fashion dolls sent to, 170 n501
pattern book dedicated to, 22, 494
point de Gennes of, 72
sumptuary law published by, 144 and n419;
evaded by, 149 and n434

Mary of Modena, Queen, 341, 425

---- II.
fontange of, 342
knotted fringe worked by, 13 and n47
lace bills of, quoted, 168 n496
Mechlin ruffles of, 126 and n364

---- Stuart
dentelle of, 27
finery of, overhauled by Elizabeth, 307 and n860
guipures of, 37 and n120, 38
inventories of, cited, 21, 33 n102, 302 n828, 314, 325 n939, 372 n1098
needlework done by, 10, 11, 420, 421
ruff on effigy of, 316 n901
wardrobe of, 419 and n1177, 420 and n1182, 421
will of, 22

Masch (Mawsch) 22 and n70, 419

Massillon, encouragement of lace industry by, 243

Massimo, Prince, reference to library of, 466, 468 n1290, 495 n1357

Massinger, quoted, 265 n717, 296 and n804

Matignon, Mlle, de, 176

Matilda, Empress, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 n22

--------, Queen, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 and n23

Matsys, Quentin, 109, 110

Matthew of Paris, anecdote by, 7

Maximilian, King of the Romans, 289

Maynard, Mrs. Lydia, 404

Mayne, Jasper, quoted, 317 and n905, 324 and n936

Mazarin, Cardinal, 143 n412, 150, 151 and n439, 248

Mazzarine, 343 and n1017

Mechlin lace
arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365
"Broderie de Malines" a term for, 125
characteristic of, 31, 125
compared with Bayeux lace, 228;
with Brussels, 118;
with Cretan mesh work, 87;
with Lille, 237;
with point de Dieppe, 218;
with St. Trond, 137;
with Valenciennes, 233
decline of manufacture, 125
description of, 124-125
earliest references to, 125-126
English fashion for, 126
grounds in, 125
imperial layette (1856), in, 198
Lille, pattern adopted at, 238
points de France rivalled by, 177-178
Pope's apron bordered with, 70
Turnhout manufacture of, 125, 131
uses of, 127-128
varieties included by term (1665), 35

---- net, 448

Medici collars, 56

Médicis family (_See also_ Katherine _and_ Mary), influence on fashions,
139

Melville, Sir Robert, 37

_Memoirs of Madame Palatine_, cited, 354

Men as lace workers
Chili, 108
England, 392;
south, 371 n1092;
Northamptonshire, 385;
Devonshire, 413, 414
France, 155
Madeira, 107 n316
Normandy (soldiers), 225
Saxony, 263
work of, compared with that of women, 263

Menin lace, 232 n624

Menzikoff, Prince, funeral of daughter of, 366 n1083

Meran blonde, 256

Mercier, Baron, lace school of, 196

----, S., quoted, 121 and n348, 170 n500, 171 and n502

Méric lace, 212

Merli, Cav. Antonio, cited, 46 and n150, 47, 50, 462, 466, 468 n1291,
n1292, 487

Merli à piombini, 32 n98

Mermaid's lace, 49

Meshes, Cretan skill in, 86

Messina, lace work at, 81

Metal laces, Sicilian, 86

Mexico, mantillas exported to, 226

Meyer, Daniel, 496

Mézières lace, 183 n539, 253, 254

Mezzo punto, 58

Michel, Francisque, cited, 104;
quoted, 251 n669

----, Pfarrer, 266

Michele, La Sig. Gabriella Zeno, 484

Middleton, quoted, 312 n884

Mignerak, Milour, pattern book of, 21, 22, 29, 493

Mignonette, 34 and n107, 35 and nn, 210, 237, 251

Milan
Albissola lace bought for Napoleon I.'s coronation at, 78
Cantu the centre of lace of, 66
cathedral, lace camicie in underground chapel of, 66
early record of Italian lace belonging to, 63
Genoese lace contrasted with lace of, 75 n236
Greek lace made at, 85
Old Milan point, 65
punto di Napoli contrasted with point of, 71
réseau of points of, 66
wire lace industry at, 72

Milward & Co., 380

Minas Geraes, lace of, 108

Minifie, Mrs., 400 and n1140, 401 and n1142

Mirecourt lace, 212, 238, 251-253, 257 n688

Misson, F. M., cited, 54 n186;
quoted, 267

Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs., advertisement of school of, 431 n1209

Modano, Tuscan, 52, 68

Modène, Duchess of
inventory of, quoted, 120 n344, 121 n347, 128 n363, 135 and n383, 175
n520, 213 and n590
ruffles of, 233

Modes, 31

Molière, quoted, 152, 153 n442, 173 n515

Mompesson, Sir Giles, 318 and n914

Monaghan, crochet industry of, 444, 445

Moncrieffe, Sir Thomas, 425

Monks, needlework done by, 12 and n40

Mons lace, 134-135

"Monsieur de Paris," 173

Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 57, 59, 73;
quoted, 128, 356 and n1061

Montague, Mrs. Elizabeth, quoted, 352

---- R., account entry by, 335 n982

Montargis, 256

Montbéliard, pattern-book published at, 28

Montchrestien, cited, 209 n583

Monteagle, Lord, 10 n32

Monteleon, Princess of, 98

Monthulay, family, 204

---- Sieur de, 205, 206

Montmorency, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589

Montrose, pearlin of, 423

Moorish lace, 104

Moors, Spanish lace-making attributed to, 45

Morant, Captain, 440

More, Mrs. Hannah, quoted, 368

Moreau, General, 13

Moretti, Nicolo, 484

Morgan, cited, 435

---- Sydney, Lady, 369

Morges lace, 212 n589

Morin, M.A., cited, 220 n606

Mortagne, 206

Moryson, Agnes, quoted, 55, 70, 73, 87, 258, 265, 268, 274

Moscow, lace school at, 284

Motteville, Mme., quoted, 154 n447

Mountague, Alice, 308

Mourning, lace discarded in, in James I.'s time, 324

Murat, Caroline, 183

---- laces, 248, 249

Mzeresk lace, 283

Nanduti, 108

Nani, Signora Viena Vendramina, 485

Nankin silk thread, 223 n608

Naples
Greek lace made at, 85
lace from a palace at, 51 n175
lace of, 70-71;
lace work of industrial school at, 83 n352

Napoleon
bed made for, 196
favourite laces of, 128, 184
lace industry encouraged by, 123-124, 183-185, 196;
attempt to revive Valenciennes, 231.

Nardendal, custom of natives of, 283

National Gallery portraits, illustrations of ruffs in, 316 n901

Navarre, Queen of, accounts of, quoted, 67, 141 n406, 142 n409, n411

Needle lace (_See also_ Point à l'aiguille)
Alençon known as "needle-point," 195
Irish, 443
method of making, 32
Queen Elizabeth's, 305

Nelson, Lord, anecdote of, 264

Nemours, Duchesse de, 235

Nesmond, Marquis de, 117 and n331

Netherlands. _See_ Flanders, Belgium, Holland _and_ Brabant

Netting, 20, 21, 52;
machine net, 408

Neufchâtel lace industry, 270 and n726

Neville, Mary, marriage clothes of, 291 n779

New Ross convent, lace made at, 444

Newport Pagnel lace, 375 n1105, 378, 382, 384

Newton, Rev. John, letter from Cowper to, 379

Nicholas, Edward, 329 n957

-------- Susanne, 329 n957

Nichols, quoted, 294 n791, 303 n833

Nicolas, Etienne, 160 n466

Night caps, 323

Noailles, Madame de, anecdote of, 180 n533

Normanby, Lady, 441

Normandy
lace industry of. (_See also_ Calvados _and_ Dieppe)
centres of, 216, 218
French Revolution, effect of, 223
mignonette made (1665), 35
numbers employed in different localities, 228 n614;
(1851), 257 n688
value of, 228 n614
peasant women, Valenciennes bought by, 235

Norris, Sir Henry, 307

Northamptonshire lace, 384-393

Nosegays, lace trimmings for, 55

Nottingham lace, 441;
Isle of Wight lace compared with, 372 n1097;
machine-made blondes, 225;
imitation mantillas, 227

Novgorod, fabric at, 283

Nuns, lace washed by, 373 and n1101

---- as lace-makers
Flanders, 354
Italy, 47 and n154;
Burano, 58;
Florence, 67, 68;
Cantu, 80
Portugal, 105, 107
Spain, 93

Nuremberg, 266, 267

Oberkirch, Baroness de, extract from Memoires of, 182

O'Brien, Mrs. R. V., 442

O'Hagan, Mother Abbess, 443

O'Halloran, Mr., 436

Old lace
indifference to, 368 and n1090
mania for, 369
restoration of, 411, 412

Oldfield, Mrs., 367

Olney, lace industry of, 378, 380 n1119

Opus tract, 302

Orfreys, 3 n13

Orléans, Duchesse d', quoted, 166 n489

-------- Dukes of, inventories of, quoted, 120 n342, n344, 221 and n607

Orléanois lace industry, 256

Orsa lace, 281

Ostans, Giovanni, 484

------ Jean, 475

Oudenarde lace, 134

Our Lady of La Solidad, costly robes of, 90

--- ---- of Loreto, laces of, not described, 69

Overbury murder, 317

Oxford, opinion of, on falling bands, 326

------ Countess of, 9 n31

Oyah (Turkish crochet), 45, 87

Pagan, Mathio, 468, 471

Paganino, Alessandro, 468

Paganinus, P. A., 472

Paget, Lady, 295

Pagodes, 168 n496

Paintings, earliest in which lace occurs, 47;
lace in paintings of 18th century, 222, 364

Palatine, Count, 326

-------- Madame, 168;
Memoires of, quoted, 178

Pale of rose point, 51 and n174

Palermo
grave clothes at, 366 and n1081
sculptured lace in villa near, 71

Palestine, lace-making at, 59 and n195

Pandore, la grande, 170

Parasole, Elisabetta Catanea, 495

-------- Isabella Catanea, 491, 496

Parchment lace, 37 and n122, 38 and n126, n129, n131, 297, 298

Paris
churches, lace of, 120 n342, 161 n467, n469
English laces in demand at (1788), 368, 379
exhibitions. _See under_ Exhibitions
lace industry
Binche and Mirecourt flowers applied at, 212
Bisette made (1665), 33 and n102
commerce of lace under Louis XIV, 211 and n587
Dumont's fabric, 211
factories round, 209
guipures made (1665), 36 and n114
mignonette made (1655), 35
numbers employed (1851), 257 n688
passementiers privileged in, 44
pattern books in, 12 and n43

Parisini, Agostino, 477

Partlet, 297 n810

Pasax, Marquis de, 190

Pasini, Tomaso, 483

Pasment in Scotland, 418

Pasolini, Countess, 81 n248

Passament (passement)
definition of term, 26 and n79, 27
guipure a kind of, 36
references to, 27-29

"Passement Bond, The," 419

Passerotti, Aurelio, 472

Pattern-books
Belgium
Antwerp (n. d.), 130, 463
Liège (1597), 136, 488
cut-works, of (1591), 20 n62
earliest dated, 18;
earliest known, 376 n1108
England
London (1591), 482;
(1624), 497;
(1632), 499;
(1640), 500
Northampton, 384
France
Lyon (n. d.), 92 n269, 465, 466;
(1549) 92 n269, 144, 464;
(1581), 475
Mignerak's, 21, 22, 29, 144, 493
Montbéliard (1598), 28, 489, 490
Paris, in Bibliothèque Impériale, 12 n43;
in St. Geneviève's library, 12;
(n. d.), 468;
(1530) 144, 461;
(1546), 464;
(1564), 475;
(1584), 476;
(1587), 17, 18, 477;
(1587, 1588, 1595, 1606), 479-481;
(1601), 20 n62, 490;
(1605), 493;
(1613), 494;
(1623), 498;
(1722), 501
Germany
Augsburg (1534), 267, 462
Cologne (1527), 268, 459
Frankfort (n.d.), 470;
(1537), 470
Frankfort-on-the-Maine (1568, 1569, 1571), 470;
(1605), 267, 491;
(1607), 492;
(1618), 496
Leipsic (1619), 496
Lindau am Bodensee (n.d.), 488
Nuremberg (n.d.) 502;
(1597), 489;
(1601, 1604), 266, 490;
(1666), 501;
(1676), 501
Nuremberg and Leipzig, (1784), 501
Strasburg (1556), 469
gold and silver lace, of, 92
Italy
Bologna (n.d.), 477;
(1591), 483
Florence (1596), 488
Padua (1555), 469;
(1604), 491
Pistoja (1642), 53 n181, 85, 92 n269, 500
Rome (1616), 495;
(1625), 496
Siena (1603), 488
Turin (1589), 481
Venice (n.d.), 466, 471, 498;
(1529), 461;
(1530), 53 n179, 460;
(1532), 462;
(1537), 462;
(1542), 463;
(1543, 1544), 464;
(1548), 53 n179, 468;
(1551), 468;
(1556), 469;
(1557), 472;
(1558), 471;
(1559), 92 n269, 471, 472;
(1560), 473;
(1563), 474;
(1564), 53 n179, 54 n182, 474, 475;
(1567), 475;
(1584), 476;
(1591), 53 n179, 54 n182, 484;
(1592) (Corona of Vecellio), 50 n167, 54 n182, 484;
(1594), 486;
(1600), 68, 491, 496;
(1620 and 1625), 54 n182, 497
Samplars a substitute for, 22-23
Switzerland
Basle (1599), 271, 490
St. Gall (1593), 271, 487
Zurich, 271, 469
unknown points in, 54 n182
Vienna Museum, in, 263

Pauline, Princess, 184, 185

Pays de Caux, 216

Peacham, quoted, 325, 329

Pearl (picot), 31

------ ties, 31

Pearlin, 422, 423

Pedlars, lace trade carried on by, 43 and n139, 44 and n142, n143

Pelegrin, Francisque, pattern book of, 144, 461

Pelican represented in lace, 21

Pellestrina, revival of pillow lace at, 62

Pembroke, Countess of, 322, 500

Peniche
bobbins used at, 106 n314
lace industry of, 107 and n315

Pennant, quoted, 382;
cited, 431 n1208

Penne, Mrs., 294

Penshurst, old needlework at, 11

Penthièvre, Duc de
Eu lace patronised by, 221
inventory of, quoted, 117 n333, 195 n549
wardrobe account of, quoted, 172 and n510, n511, 211 n588

Peplos, embroidery of, 3 n8

_Pepys' Diary_, quoted, 153 n444, 337, 338

Persia, drawn-work of, 45

Peru and Mexico, lace imported to, from Le Puy, 245

Perugia, Torchon made at, 81 n248

Peter the Great, 283

Petersen, Anders, 280

Petre, Madame, of Gefle, information supplied by, 282 n750

Peuchet, cited, 132, 224, 256, 265, 377, 395;
quoted, 216 n595, 218 n600, 220 n605, 225, 237 n640, 239, 244, 245 and
n657, 268, 396, 432

"Pharsalia" quoted, 25

Philip II. (Spain), 67, 310

------ III. (Spain), 97

Philippa, Queen, 278, 285 and n754

Philippine Islands, Manilla grass threadwork of, 89 n265

Phrygians, embroidery of, 3 and n13

Pianesani, Francesco, 462

Picard, M., 490 n1346

Picchetti, Marie, 79

Pichon, Baron J., 482, 493 n1355, 495 n1356

Pickleman, Jungfrau, 266

Pickpockets, 346

Picot (pearl), 31 and n92

Pigott, Miss, quoted, 421

Pillows
Barcelona, 103 n305
description of, 391
foreign names for, 32 n99
Honiton, 415 n1156

Pillow guipure, 116

------ lace (bobbin lace)
Austrian, 268
bobbin lace, so called 32
Ceylon, of, 88
foreign names for, 32 n98
France, extension of industry in (seventeenth century), 159;
trade crisis (1818), 187;
fabric at Château de Madrid, 210 n584;
gold lace of Paris, 212;
first mentioned in French pattern-books, 494
Genoese, 74
Germany, introduction into, 260
Madeira, at, 107
Mechlin. _See that title_
method of making, 32-33
origin of, 29, 109
Peniche, at, 107
Russian, 283 and n751
Spanish, 103 n305
Valenciennes. _See that title_

------ net, 150

------ -beres, 16 and n56

Pin net machine, 448

Pinheiro, Dona Maria Bordallo, letter from, quoted, 107 n315

Pins for lace-making, 391 and n1126;
State papers concerning, 294 n794

Pinwork lace, 294 n794

Piper Countess Elizabeth, 280

Pisa, lace work of industrial school at, 81 n248

Pitt, French fashions excluded by, 170

Pizzo, 74

Plaited laces, 392

Platteuse, work of, 122

Plissés à la vieille, 127

Pluymers, Jean, 158 n460

Point (stitch), kinds of, 32

------ lace
invention of, claimed by Italy, 45
misuse of term, 32
varieties of, 33-35

------ à l'aiguille, 121;
gazée, 123. _See also_ Needle point

------ d'Alençon
Argentella, 193 and n555
Bayeux manufacture of, 228
Burano manufacture of, 62
compared, with point d'Argentan, 203, 204 and n571;
with Brussels, 194, 199;
with Colbertine, 339;
with point Gaze, 123;
with Sedan lace, 254
dress of, purchased by Emperor Napoleon, 198
earliest use of name, 195 and n557, n558, n560
grounds in, 193
imperial layette of, 198
industry
Argentan, connection with, 204
centres of, 200
decline of, causes for, 192
early account of, 188-189
Edict of Nantes, effect of revocation of, 258
establishment of, 155-157 and n455
export trade, 192
method of manufacture, 192-194
Napoleon's patronage of, 196
number of lace-workers (1698), 191;
(1786), 195;
(1788), 192 n552;
(1830), 196
origin of, 111 n323
quality of lace-work, 159 n464, 187, 194
revival of, 155 and n454, 196-197
value of (1786 and 1801), 195; (1830), 196
invention and establishment of, 155-157 and n455
lappet of, from Genoa, 78 and n244
"nun's work," 11 n39
patterns, 190-191;
dates of, 198-200;
Venice patterns copied, 191
season for, 178
shaded tints introduced in, 201 and n567
specimens of, exhibited, 200, 201
time required in making, 198, 201
Venetian réseau, relation to, 58-59
"vilain," 191 n551

------ d'Angleterre
Angleterre à bride, 408
Aurillac manufacture of, 247
Burano manufacture of, 62
butterfly and acorn pattern in, 408
France, fashionable in, 118 and n336
history of, 117 and n332, and n333
point de France rivalled by, 178

------ d'Argentan
"Argentella" possibly a name for, 78 n244
Armada pattern lace worked in, 397
Burano manufacture of, 62
characteristic of, 207
compared, with point d'Alençon, 203, 204 and n571;
with point gaze, 123;
with Venetian lace, 203, 204 n571
description of, 203
ground in, 203 and n570, 204 n571, 207-208
industry
Alençon, connection with, 204
embroidery, replaced by, 208 n580
Guyard's revival of, 204-205
number of lace workers (c. 1744), 205;
(1786), 195
rival houses, 205
value, annual (1786 and 1801), 195;
(1788), 207
reference to (1738), 195 and n559
season for, 178

------ d'Aurillac. 154, 246-249

------ de Bourgogne, 255

------ de Brabant, 138 n392

------ de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre

------ à carreaux, 32

------ à chaînette, 32

------ des champs (point de Paris), 35

------ Colbert, 188 n548, 228

------ coupé (couppé), 17-18, 49, 140 _et seq._

------ de Dieppe. _See_ Dieppe

------ double (point de Paris), 35

------ duchesse, 123

------ d'Espagne. (_See also_ Gold lace)
brides in, 58
definition of, 90
England, importation to, prohibited, 358;
Honiton imitation of, 410
Irish imitation of, 443 n1233
point d'Aurillac compared with, 248
Portuguese laces compared with, 98, 106
Queen Elizabeth's, 307
references to, 98-99 n283, n285, 100, 103 n306, 354

------ d'esprit, 32 and n94, 229

------ de Flandre (_See also_ Flemish lace), 111, 144-145

------ de France. (_See also_ Point d'Alençon)
description of, made at Alençon, 190
designs in, 158 n463
équipage, de bain of, 168
falbalas of, 167 and n492
industry
centres of, 157 n459, 159 n459, 210-211 and n584
Dumont, Mlle., foundress of, 105 n312
establishment and history of company, 157-158 and n459
Flanders, effect on, 111
method of working pattern in, 31 n91
ordinance of 1665, 157 and n459
rivals to, 177-178
popularity in France and England, 161-162
references to, 157 n459, 159 n464, 195 and n557, n558, n559, n560

------ de Galle, thread lace from, 88

------ Gaze, characteristics of, 123

------ de Gênes (Genoa)
collerette, 141
France, prohibited in, 148 n431, 154 and n451
history of, 72-73 and n230, 74
"Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41,42

------ de Hongrie, 265

------ of Italy, first appearance in France, 144-145

------ de Marli. _See under_ Bayeux, lace industry.

------ de Milan, Irish imitation of, 443

------ de Moscow, 284

------ de neige (punto neve), 32 and n97, 51

------ de Paris, 32 and n93, 35, 210, 212

------ plat, 105 n313, 118, 121 and n347, 122 and n350;
appliqué, 123

------ de raccroc, 120, 184, 226

------ de Raguse, 41, 83 and n254, 84

------ à la Reine, 32

------ de Sedan. _See_ Sedan

------ tresse, 314

------ de Venise
Alençon imitations of, 191
characteristics, 123
England, importation to, prohibited, 358
France, prohibited in, 154 and n451
Guipure, 40
Irish imitation of, 442
Mary II., image of, shown wearing, 345
Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151
Moscow imitations of, 284
origin of, 49-50
point à l'aiguille gazée so called, 123
point de Raguse so called, 83
resemblance of, to point d'Argentan, 203, 204 n591;
to Le Puy lace, 245;
to point de Sedan, 254
"Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41
rose point (raised), 51 and n175, 62;
price of, 57;
Honiton reproduction of, 411, 416;
Irish reproduction of, 443 n1233, 444
Spanish conventual lace compared with, 93
theft of, 105 and n313

------ de Venise à réseau, 57, 58

Pointeuse, work of, 122

Points, lace known as, 2

Poitou, 256

Poking-sticks, 312

Poland
Alençon, trade with, 192 and n553
point de Sedan imported to, 254

Pole, Lady, effigy of, 403 n1145, 405

Polignac, Madame de, 180

Polychrome lace, 62-63

Pomfret, Countess of, 99 n285

Pommereu, M. de, quoted, 191 and n550

Pomp office, 319

Pompadour, Madame de, 184 n540

_Pompe di Minerva, Le_, cited, 53 n181, 85, 92 n269

Ponchel, du. _See_ Duponchel

Pont-l'Evêque lace, 183 n539

Ponthièvre, Duke de, 100 and n288

Ponto fiamengho, 111

Pontoppidan, quoted, 274 n736

Pontus de Gardia, 280

Pope, quoted, 367

----, the, apron worn by, for feet-washing ceremony, 70 and n217

Popplewell Brothers, quoted, 345

Porlin, quoted, 306 n854

Porter, Mrs. Grey, 440

Portland, Duchess of, 353

Portugal
American imports of lace from, 106
bone pins used in, 295
guipures exported to, 36
lace-making in, 105-107 and nn
Le Puy, lace imported from, 245
sumptuary laws in, 105

Postlethwait, quoted, 354; cited, 396

Pot lace, 130 and n369

Potter, Amy, 366 n1086

Poussin lace, 219

Poyntz, Adrian, 482

Prague, altar-cloth at, 9

Pridmore, Mr., 389

Princess Royal, bridal dress of, 409

Prior, quoted, 342

Prison-made lace, 81 and n248

Protection to English-made laces, etc., by English sovereigns
Charles I., 330
Charles II., 335
George III., 359, 363 and n1068
William III., 341

Puisieux lace, 212 n589

Puissieux, Madame de, 49 and n162, 73

Pultenarian collars, 253.

Punto in aria (Burano point), 46, 51 and n171, 58, 62

Punto di cartella (cordella), 50

------ a gropo, 52

------ a maglia quadra (lacis), 52

------ de mosquito e de transillas, 99

------ di Napoli, 71

------ neve (point de neige), 32 and n97, 51

------ pugliese, 71 n222

------ di Rapallo, 75 n237

------ reale, 50

------ a relievo (rose point--_See under_ Point de Venise)

------ a reticella, 50 and n168

------ ricamento a maglia quadra, 21

------ tagliato (cut-work), 51

------ tagliato a fogliami, 51 and n172, 62

------ tirato (drawn work), 53 and n181

------ a Vermicelli, 75 n237

Purle lace, 310 and n875, n876, n877

Purling, 409

Purls, lace known as, 2

Puritans, lace industry under, in England, 332-334;
in America, 372 n1099

Puteau, Madame, 433 and n1214

Queensberry, Duchess of, 356

Quentell, P., 459

Quicherat, 139

Quilles, 127, 168 n496

Quintain, 19 and n60, 20

Quinty, M., 268

------, P., 459

Rabat, 141 and n403

Rabbits' hair, lace of 245.

Radcliffe, Lady, 310 n875

Radford, Miss, lace school of, 416 and n1169

Raffy, Madame, 157 n458, 202

Ragusa, cut-works and laces of, 82-83

Rapallo,
number of lace-workers at (1862), 76
Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn

Ratcliff, Lady, 294 n791

Rättwik lace, 281

Ravenna, lace school near, 81 n248

Rawert, cited, 274 n732, 277 n741

Ray, cited, 67

Réaux, Tallemant des, quoted 49;
cited, 83

Rebecq-Rognon, flax grown at, 118

Récamier, Madame, 185

Regency point, 388

Regnard, quoted, 126 and n358, 167 n494

Regnier, quoted, 141

Reid, Miss, 440

Reiffenberg, Baron, cited, 109 and n318

Relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174

Religious subjects in lace, etc, 324

Renaissance, cut-work of, 17

René, Maître, 140 n395

Renfrew, lace industry at, 433

Réseau (réseuil, rézel, rézeuil)
Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n281
methods of making, 120-121
needle-made by hand, 406 n1151
nosacé, 78
specimens of rézeuil d'or, 23 n74
uses of, 21
Venetian, relation of, to Alençon, 58-59

Restoring of old lace, 411, 412

Reticella (Italian)
designs in, 68
Irish imitation of, 446

Retz, Cardinal de, 62

Revel, grave-clothes in church at, 366 n1083

"Révolte des Passemens, La," quoted, 40 and n134, 43, 104;
cited, 83, 188

Rheims lace, 253

Rhodes, silk guipure of, 87

Riano, J. F., quoted, 93

Riazan lace, 283

Riband roses, 329 and n959

Ricci, Sebastian, cut work shown in "Last Supper" of, 79 n248

Rich, B., quoted, 317 n908

Richard II., statutes of, 216 n597

-------- III., 48, 294 n794

Richelieu, Duke, 144, 149

----------, Maréchal de, 171

Ripon, lace-making at, 371 and n1095

Riviera (_See also_ Albissola, Rapallo, Santa Margherita), lace
manufacture of, 75, 79 and n245

_Rob Roy_ cited, 423

Roberts, Mrs., 445;
account of lace school supplied by, 388-390

Robinson Crusoe, Flanders lace bought by, 134 n379

Rodge, James, 401

Roger, Widow, 207

Rohan, Catherine de, 212

------ family, 182

Roland, cited, 36 n113

------ de la Platière, quoted, 154 n451, 223 n608;
cited, 245 n656

Romagna, lace-making in, 68

Romana, Lucretia, 498

------, Lugretia, 497

Romans, embroidery used by, 3 and n13, 4 n14

Rome, Greek lace made at, 85

----, King of, 196

Rondonneau, M., 152 n440

Rose point of Venice. _See under_ Point de Venise

Rosenborg Palace Museum, 273

Rosina Helena, Princess, 501

Ross, Mr., 482

Rossi, Giovanni, 483

Roumanian embroidery, 71 n222

Rousseau, Jean Jacques, 270

Rowlands, quoted, 289 n773

Rudd, Margaret Caroline, 352

Rue, Abbé, cited, 6

Ruel, Sieur, 155

Ruelle, Veuve, 468

Ruff
cut-work, of, 312-313
England, introduction into, 310
falling band the successor to, 326
France, in, 139-141 and n399
James I., under, 315-318
Medicean, 322
Nuremberg, 267
sermons against the, 316
starching and fluting of, 311-312

Ruffles
fashion of, in George I.'s time, 351
ladies wearers of, 365 and n1077
long, in George III.'s time, 363 and n1070
making of, 194
origin of weeping, 171
Valenciennes industry affected by disappearance of, 231

Run lace, 441

Russell, Lady Rachel, 348

Russia
embroidery of, 71 n222
lace imported to, from Alençon, 192, 199;
from Saxony, 263
lace industry in, 283-284

Ruvigne, M., 331

Rymer, cited, 291 n785

Sabbio, Fratelli de, 461

Sabenqua, 97

Sabière, M. de, 172 n505

Saffron Walden fair, 43 n137

Sainte-Aignau, M. de, 216

Saint-Albin, Mgr. C. de, 173 and n508

St. Aligre, 247-248 and n663

Saint-Brice lace, 213 n589

St. Bridget, lace introduced into Sweden by, 278 and n743

St. Cuthbert
cope and maniple of, 7
grave-clothes of, 14-15, 366

St. Denis lace, 210

St. Dunstan, embroideries designed by, 5

St. Eustadiole, 5

Saint François Régis, 243

St. Gervais, 207 n577

St. Giselle, 5 n18

St. Lawrence, Lady, 310 n876

St. Lo, cut-work toile d'honneur used at, 25

St. Louis, hospital at Argentan, 207

St. Margaret's, Westminster, lady ancress of, 293

St. Martin's lace, 331 n965

St. Mary at Hill, 293, 302 n828

Saint Maximien, lace of, 212

St. Nicholas, flax grown at, 118 n338

Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, lace of, 213 n589

St. Simon, quoted, 73, 166

St. Trond, lace industry of, 137 and n390, n391

Salcombe, male lace-maker at, 413

Saltonstall, Mistress Susan, 483

Salviati, Joseph, 476

Samcloths, 23 and n73

Samplars, 9 n30, 23 and n73

Sandford, cited, 285 n754

Sandwich, Lady, 166

Sta. Lucie, Pierre de, 464, 465

Santa Margherita
number of lace-workers at (1862), 76
Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn

Saracens, Italian lace-making attributed to, 45

Sarcelles lace, 213 n589

Sardinia
deaf and dumb lace-workers in, 81 n248
Le Puy, annual value of lace brought from, 245 n657

Saule, Marchesa Barbaretta, 78 n244

Savary, quoted, 36 and n111, 54, 64, 126, 133, 255, 257 n687, 404;
cited, 74, 118 n338, 125, 129, 135, 192, 210, 244, 246 n661, 247, 253
n677, 254 n681, n683, 262, 377

Savinière, quoted, 153 and n443

Savoie, Don Philippe, 143

Savona, 77 n240, 79 n246

Savonarola, quoted, 67

Saxony lace industry
Barbara Uttman's work, 260-262
cheap lace of, 246
degeneration of, 263
Dresden lace, 262-263
modern, 263
numbers employed (sixteenth century), 261
patterns imitated in Denmark, 275
revenue from (sixteenth century), 261
treillis d'Allemagne, mention, of, in French inventories, 262 and n701

Scandinavian Museum, Copenhagen, 275

Scandinavians, lace work of, 4

Scarpariola, Cencia, 59, 61

Scarron, quoted, 177

--------, Veuve, 163

Schartzemberger, Johan, 462

Schleswig lace industry, quality of lace, 275;
number of fabrics (1840), 277

----------, North, lace of, 272, 273;
districts of lace industry, 276 n738

"Schole House for the Needle, A," 499

Schomberg, Col., quoted, 326 and n946

Schools, Lace
Devonshire, 414, 415 and n1167, 416
Italian, 81 n248
Spratton, 388, 390

Schoulthem, Mr. Hey, quoted, 133-134 and n380

Schwartzenburg, John, 267

Scotch servant on old lace, 368 n1090

Scotland
lace manufacture of, 422, 425 n1199, 428-434
sumptuary laws in, 422 and n1195, 424

Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 418 n1175, 427 and n1202

_Scottish Advertiser_ (1769), quoted, 35

Sculptured lace
coloured marbles, in, 71
Harefield church, in, 321 n927

Seaming lace, 107, 325 n941, 332

Sedan lace, 183 n539, 253, 254

Sedgewicke, Elizabeth, 310

Sedley, Sir Charles, 13 and n47

Séez black laces, 196 and n562

Séguin, quoted, 113 n325, 139 n393; cited, 254

Select Society of Edinburgh, The, 429, 430 and nn

_Sempere Historia del Lujo_, quoted, 102

Senior, Hannah, 12

Sera, Dominique de, cited, 92;
Pattern Book of, 476

Sevenges, Madame de, 290

Sévigné, Madame de
bequest to, 183 n540
quoted, 154 n448, 162 n477, 366 n1084

Seville lace, 101

Sewell, quoted, 294 n794

Seymour, Lady Jane, 294

Sforza family, documents of, cited, 46, 50 n168, 63, 74 n235

Shadwell, quoted, 343, 345

Shakespeare, laces mentioned by, 295, 303 and n831;
quoted, 309 n871

_Shakespeare Memorial, A_, quoted, 325 n941

Shandowes, Lady. _See_ Chandos

Shawe, quoted, 404

Sherborne, lace industry of, 396, 397

Sheridan, quoted, 346

Shirts
adornments of, 15-16
Irish, 307, 435
Queen Elizabeth's present of, to her brother, 10
Spanish omission of, 97 n279

Shoes, lace rosette-trimmed, 329

Shrewsbury, Countess of, 11

Siam, King of (1614), 12

Sibmacher, 266, 490

Sicily, lace manufacture of, 80-81

Sicotière, Leon de la, 208 n579

Sidbury, lace school at, 414;
lace lessons at, 416 n1170

Sidford, lace lessons at, 4l6 n34

Sidmouth, lace school at, 416 and n1169

Sidney, Sir Philip, 304

Sidonian embroidery, 3

Siena lace, 68

Silk guipure. _See_ Guipure

---- lace
Almagro, at, 102 n297
Chinese, 89
Cretan, 86
Ragusa, at (gimp), 84
Watling, 422

Silver lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace)
England, importation to, prohibited by, Queen Anne, 349;
George II., 335 n993;
confiscation and burning of foreign, 359
Hamburg, 264
Holland, introduction into, 259
India, exported to, 322 n928, 329 and n958
Ireland, exportation to, prohibited, 439
Large purchase of, by Lady Arabella Stuart, 325
Lyons, at, 256
Ragusa, at, 84
Scotland, wearing prohibited in, 422
Spanish, 100-102, 154, 211, 212
Zurich, 271

------ net-work, collar of, 82

------ purles, prohibition of English made, 330 330

------ thread, duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328

Silvestre, cited, 463 n1274, 464

Simiane, Madame de
English point belonging to, 118 and n335
inventory of, quoted, 153 n444, 218 and n599

Sinclair, Sir John, quoted, 133-134 and n380, 428

--------, Miss Katherine, 419 n1176

_Sir Courtly Nice_, cited, 353 and n1052

Skelton, quoted, 251 n669

Skippin, quoted, 49 n165, cited, 72

Slammerkins, 356 and n1059

Slavonian peasants' work, 268

Sleeves, 341, 365

Sloper, Catherine, epitaph on, 13

Smith, Mother Mary Anne, 443

Smocks
adornments of, 15
labourers' cut-work insertion on, 25

Smuggling of lace, account of, 357-362;
of point de Bruxelles, 117;
in 1621, 331;
in Charles II's time, 336;
Isle of Man a centre for, 372;
to Scotland, 427

---------- of thread, 407

Smyrna, silk guipure of, 87

Smythe, Thomas, 425

Society of Anti-Gallicans. _See_ Anti-Gallican

-------- of Polite Arts, 262 n702

Sol, José, 484

Soldiers
lace made by, 225
rich laces of English, 345, 346

Sonderburg, vault of Schleswig-Holstein family at, 366 n1082

Sonnettes, 34 n104

Sophie de France, 168

------, Grand Duchess, 268

Soragana, Marchesa di, 486

Sorbière, Mons. de, 70

Souche, Lady, 309 n870

South Kensington Museum, Cretan laces in, 86

Southey, quoted, 303 n830

Spacing lace, 325 n941

Spain
America, lace exported to, 102
bone pins used in, 295
conventual lace work of, 93
earnings of lace-makers in, 102
embroidery of, 8 n28, 10 and n32
French fashions influenced by, 147
gold and silver lace, use and manufactures of, 100-102;
imported to, 212
grave clothes of grandees in, 366 and n1085
guipures imported to, 36
holidays in, 102 n302
lace imported to, from--
Albissola, 77
Chantilly, 214
Dieppe, 219
Ghent, 133
Isle de France, 209
Le Puy, 245 and n657
Lorraine, 251
Marseilles, 101
Paris, 36, 212
Maestranza, the, uniforms of, 100
mantilla, kinds of, 102-103 and n305;
mantillas exported to, 226
manufacture of lace in, centres of, before 1665, 44 n144
Moresse, dentelles de, 104
numbers of lace-makers in, 99, 101, 102 n294, n297, 104
point of. _See_ Point d'Espagne
shirts frequently unworn in (1686), 97 n279
sumptuary laws of, 90, 97, 101
two kinds of lace made in, 103 n305

Spangles, 335;
of bobbins, 391 n1127

Spanish-American colonies, Chantilly lace exported to, 214

-------- Indies,
Brabant lace exported to, 129
guipures exported to, 36
Le Puy lace, annual consumption of, 245 n657

Spelle werk, 32 n98

Spenser, quoted, 303 n830

Spider net, 448

------ -work, 20

Spiral design, 7

Spratton, lace school at, 388-390

Staël, Madame de, 180

Stafford, Bishop, monument of, 405 and n1150

Stair, Lord, 99 n285

Starch, yellow, 307, 317 and n906, 435

Starching, introduction of, into England, 311;
tools used for fluting and, 311-312

Steadman, Anne, 440

Steenbeck, 274

Steinkirk lace, 167 and n491, 344 and n1021, 345, 364

Stephens, quoted, 302 n828

Stepney, Lady, 369

Sterne, cited, 172

Stisted, Mrs., cited, 474 and n1308, 487

Stock, lace cravat succeeded by, 345

Stockholm museums, lace in, 282

Stone, quoted, 140

Stoney Stratford, lace industry of, 375 n1105, 379 and n1117

Stothard, Mrs., quoted, 216 n594

Stowe, cited, 294 n793;
quoted, 310, 311 and n879, 312

Strafford, statuette of Earl of, 367

Strasburg, Archbishops of. _See_ Rohan family.

Stratford-upon-Avon, embroidered bed linen at, 325 n941

Strauben, George, 271, 487

Strickland, Miss, quoted, 420 n1184

Striqueuse, work of, 122

Strutt, Jedediah, 448 n1239

Strype, quoted, 38, 297 and n813

Stuart, Arabella, 325

------, Mary, _See_ Mary Stuart

Stubbes, quoted, 16, 313 and n892

Stuora, 53 and n179

Sturbridge fair, 43 and n140

Stures family, 282

Suffolk, Duchess, 292

--------, Earl of, 319 and n917, n918

--------, lace industry of, 394

Sully, 142, 210

Sumptuary laws
Denmark, 274 and n733, n735
England, 285, 286, 288, 289, 290 and n776, 291, 293, 306 and n855, 319
France, 64, 141 and n404, n405, 144, 147 and n429, 148 and n431, 152,
154 and n450, 158 and n460, 212, 243
Genoa, 73
Ireland (192 A.D.), 435, 436 and n1220
Portugal, 105
"Révolte des Passemens, La," 40-43
Scotland, 422 and n1195, 424
Spain, 90, 97, 101
Turkey, 87
Venice, 48, 57, 79 n245
Zurich, 270

Sweden
cut-work in, 25, 280
grave-clothes, lace adorned, 366
lace industry,
bobbin lace of, 280
established at Wadstena, 278
growth of, 279
peasant lace work for home use, 281-282
Spanish point and guipure in museums, 282
sheets, laced, 280

Swift, quoted, 124, 339, 349 n1037, 352, 436

Swinburne, Thos. (1572), 301 n822

---------- (1775), quoted, 101

---------- (1786), quoted, 176

Switzerland, lace industry in,
French refugees, settlement of, 269
mignonette made (1665), 35
Neufchâtel. _See that title_
origin of, 269
pattern books, 271
statistics of, 270 and n727
Zurich sumptuary laws, 270-271

Sylvius, Balthazar, 469

Syon Monastery cope, 7

Syracuse, Count of, quoted, 369

Tabin, B., 476

Taglienti, pattern-book of, 50 n168, 51 n171, 52 n176, n178, 53 n181, 71
n222, 82 n252, 460

Talavera de la Regna, lace made at, 101

Talbot, Gilbert, 304

Tallies, 78 and n154

Talma lace, 186

Talon, 158 n460

Tambour work,
Hamilton, 434 n1216
Irish, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231
oriental, 440, 441

Tape lace, 116, 414 n1165

Tapestry, Greek lace a substitute for, 85-86

Tarnete (trina), 46

_Tatler_, quoted, 296 n806

Tatting, Manilla grass, 89 n265

Tax-books, Genoese, cited, 72 n224

Taylor, John, quoted, 323 and n933, 329;
cited 500

Temple, Earl, 380

Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225, 73 n232;
cited, 76 n238

Têtes de More (de mort, de moire), 36 and n113

Thelusson, Symphorien, 269

Theodoret, J., 469

Thierzac, lacis at, 248

Thomond, Earl of, 12

Thomsen, Prof., quoted, 272

Thomysi, Eleazaro, 481

Thread, importance of using fine (_see also under_ Lille), 393 and n1104,
446

------ lace
Cyprian, 82
hand spinners of, protest by, 335
importation of, prohibited by George III., 355 n1047

Thynne, quoted, 298 n816

Tickell, quoted, 169 n497

Tighe, Mr., cited, 440 n1228

Tiverton, first machine net factory at, 408

Toilé, 30 and n89

Toile d'arraignée, Paraguayan, 108

Toledo, Donna Teresa de, 103

Tombs. _See_ Grave-clothes

Tönder lace industry, 274, 275, 277 and n740, n742

Toquet, 340

Torchon
Milanese, 66
prison-made at Perugia, 81 n248
Saxony fabric, 263
Sicilian, 81
Spanish, 102 n297

Torello, 469

Torteroli, Sig. Don Tommaso, 79 n246

Tory, G., 476

Tottenham, Mrs. George, 446

Toul, "tulle" probably derived from, 250-251 and n669

Tournantes, 168 n496

Tournay, flax grown at, 118 n338

Tours, cope presented to Church of St. Martin at, 5

Towcester, lace industry at, 382

Travancore, pillow-laces of, 88

Treadwin, Mrs.
cited, 401 n1140, 407, 413
Honiton lace industry, efforts for, 410, 411, 416

Trevelyan, Miss Audrey, 417

Trezola, 474 n1311

Trina, 46 and n150, n152

Trolle Bonde, Count, 282

------ kant, 115-116

Trollopies, 356 and n1059

Trolly ground, 386

------ lace, 371 n1095, 412-414

Trotman, Acting Consul, cited, 89

Trousse, Mlle. de la, cited, 40 n134

Troyaux, Mons., 124

Tucker, Mrs. Marwood, 407 n1154

Tulle (town), manufactures of, 250

Tulle
embroidered, 229
German manufacture of, 250
lace discarded in favour of, 187
Marie Antoinette, at Court of, 180
origin of name, 250
predecessor of, 225

Turkey
oyah made in, 45, 87
silk gimp specimens from, 85
sumptuary laws in, 87
tambour work in, 441

Turn, 401 n1140

Turner, Mrs., yellow starch invented by, 307, 317 and n906, 435

Turnhout, Mechlin lace made at, 125;
number of fabrics (1803), 131

Turin, fashion at Court of, 153 n445

Tuscan lacis, 52-53, 68

Tussaud, Madame, 143 n412

Twopenny, Mr. W., 286 n761

Tynan lace industry, 442, 443

Tyrol (Austrian) lace industry, 268

Udine, lace school at, 81 n248

Unbleached thread, pattern worked in, 338

Underclothing lace-trimmed, in Scotland, 426

United States. _See_ America

Urbino, lace making in, 68

Urbino, Duchess, 471

Ursins, Madame des, 99, 172

Ustariz, quoted, 102

Uttman, Barbara, 260-262, 447

Val de Travers, rivalry with Mirecourt, 252, 270

Valcameos, 246

Valencia
gold and silver lace made at, 101
saints' images decked in lace at, 100

Valenciennes Lace
compared with Binche, 135;
with Dutch, 260;
with Eu lace, 221;
with Isle of Man lace, 372 n1096;
with Lille, 237;
with Mechlin, 233;
with point de Dieppe, 220;
with Welsh lace, 371 n1094
cost of (1788), 234 and n627
fault of, 235 n629
Honiton reproduction of, 416
industry
centres of, 132;
after French Revolution, 231 n624;
expense and labour in making, 233;
cost of thread, 234 n627
decline of, 231
establishment of, date, 230
French Revolution, effect of, 183 n539
method of working pattern in, 31
numbers employed (18th century), 230;
(1790 and 1851), 231;
at Ypres (1684 and 1850), 131
period of highest merit, 234-235
time required in producing, 233-234
value of Belgium monopoly, 132 and n376
wages and conditions of work, 233
point a misnomer for, 32
réseau of, 66
varieties of
Alost (ground stitch), 133
Bailleul, 241
Bohemia, 268
Bruges, 132-133
Courtrai, width of, 131 n373;
compared with Ypres, 132;
ground stitch, 133 n377;
character of, 232 n624
Dijon, 255
fausses Valenciennes, manufactories of, 241, 387
Ghent (ground stitch), 133 n377
Le Puy, 230 and n619, 245
vrai Valenciennes, 231 and n624
Ypres, description of, 131, 231 n624;
value of, 131 n373;
ground and pattern, 131-133

Valentine de Milan, 139 n393

Valets, extravagance of, 173 and n514

Valguarnera, Prince, 71

Valladolid, lace-trimmed banner at, 100

Valois line, influence of, on French fashions, 139

_Valuables of Glenurquhy_, quoted, 325 and n938

Valvassore's heirs, pattern book of, 476

Van Even, Edward, cited, 110 n320

Van Eyck, Jacob, quoted, 111 and n322

Van Londonzeel, Assuerus, 111

Vandyke edges, origin of term, 448 n1241

Vatican, laces of, 70

Vavassore, Giovanni Andrea, 466, 467, 472

Vecellio
cited, 71 and n221
Corona of, 8 n28, 29, 50 n167, 111, 484, 486

Veils, bridal, 78;
English, fourteenth century, 285

Vélay lace industry (_See also_ Le Puy), fifteenth century, 242;
18th century, 244;
thread used, 245

Venezuela, lace of, 108

Venice
Billament lace of, 48 and n159
blonde, formerly made in, 59 n195
Brussels lace worn at, 57 and n192
Colbert, ordinance of, trade affected by, 54
collar made for Louis XIII. at, 194
emigration of workers restricted, 159 n465
English imports from, 43, 288, 307 n863, n864;
prohibited, 358
fashion dolls at St. Mark's fair, 170 n501
frauds of lace-makers in, 48, 67, 288
gold work of, 288, 307 n863, n864
Greek lace made at, 85
Medici collars made at, 56
numbers employed on lace-making in, 63
Point of. _See_ Point de Venise
polychrome lace, introduction of, 62-63
sumptuary laws in, 48, 57, 79 n245
Swiss lace from, origin of, 269
travellers' allusions to products of, 55, 57
varieties of lace supplied by, 50-53, 57-58

Verbruggen, 129 n367

Verceilles, 249

Verghetti, 56

Vermicelli lace, 74

Verney Papers, quoted, 319 n916

Verona, St. John, life of, executed in needlework at, 8 n26

Veronese, Paul, _macramé_ in picture, by, 79 n248

Verulam, Lord, 101 and n289

Viarmes lace, 212

Victoria, Queen
Honiton lace flounces ordered by, 410
Isle of Wight lace patronised by, 372 n1097
State liveries of, 174 n516
trousseau of, 392, 409

Victoria and Albert Museum
Alençon in, 193 n555
Bock exhibits in, 23 n74
Cyprian lace in, 82
Danish embroideries in, 275
Genoese lappet in, 78 and n244
German specimens in, 264;
Nuremberg ruffs, 267
Hungarian peasant lace in, 268
Irish imitation Venetian point in, 443 n1233
lacis borders in, 20-21
Norwegian cut-work in, 280 n747
pale of rose point in, 51
Paraguayan drawn-work at, 108
pattern-books in, 467 n1287, 468, 470, 477, 488 n1337, 490 n1344, 497
n1361, 501 n1370, 502 n1371
Slavonian peasants' work in, 268
Suffolk laces in, 394
Syon Monastery cope in, 7
tape lace in, 116

Villemarqué, cited, 229 n616

Villiers, Dame Barbara, 328

--------, Sir Edward, 319 n918

--------, Sir George, 318