Chapter XXIV: Part 2: , 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in (9)

[1228] Wakefield writes in 1812: "Lace is not manufactured to a large
extent in Ireland. I saw some poor children who were taught weaving
by the daughters of a clergyman, and Mr. Tighe mentions a school in
Kilkenny where twelve girls were instructed in the art. At
Abbey-leix there is a lace manufacture, but the quantity made is not
of any importance."--_Account of Ireland. Statistical and
Political._ Edw. Wakefield. 1812.

[1229] _Pall Mall Gazette_, May 8th, 1897.

[1230] Walker was a man of literary and artistic tastes, and educated for
the Church, but, marrying the daughter of a lace-manufacturer, he
set up in that business in Essex, working for the London wholesale
trade. He removed next to Limerick, where he continued till 1841,
when he sold the business, but his successor becoming bankrupt, he
never received the purchase money, and died 1842, his ingenuity and
industry ill-rewarded. In some work (we have lost the reference) it
is stated that "Coggeshall, in Essex, made a tambour lace, a sort of
medium between lace and embroidery." Could this be Walker's
manufacture?

[1231] In 1855 the number of workers employed numbered 1,500. In 1869 there
were less than 500. In 1869 Mrs. Palliser writes of the tambour lace
industry: "The existing depression of the trade has been partly
caused by the emigration of girls to America and the colonies, while
glove-making and army clothing employ the rest; and indeed the
manufacture aiming only at cheapness had produced a lace of inferior
quality, without either novelty or beauty of design, from which
cause Limerick lace has fallen into disrepute."

[1232] No account of Limerick lace would be complete which does not make
some reference to the work of the Sisters of Mercy at Kinsale, Co.
Cork, where so much is now being done to revive those industries
which were originally started with the object of coping with the
famine of 1846. This revival is largely due to Mr. A. S. Cole, who
originally suggested the establishment of an art class in connection
with South Kensington, with Mr. Brennar, of the Cork School of Art,
as its master. The studio is in connection with the workroom, which
secures constant touch between the designing, alteration, and
adaptation of patterns and their execution. (_Pall Mall Gazette_,
May 8th, 1897.)

[1233] Various schools have been established throughout Ireland. Lady de
Vere taught the mistress of a school on her own demesne at Curragh,
Co. Limerick, the art of making application flowers, giving her own
Brussels lace as patterns. The work was so good as soon to command a
high price, and the late Queen of the Belgians actually purchased a
dress of it at Harding's, and took it back with her to Brussels, The
fabric is known by the name of "Irish" or "Curragh point."

The school set up at Belfast by the late Jane Clarke exhibited in
1851 beautiful imitations of the old Spanish and Italian points;
amongst others a specimen of the fine raised Venetian point, which
can scarcely be distinguished from the original. It is now in the
Vict. and Albert Museum (1869).

[1234] From the tradition that a Jesuit procured the first Venetian lace
pattern used in Ireland.

[1235] It was in the famine period that the Rector of Headford, Co. Galway,
brought about a revival of the pillow lace, which was known to a few
women in the county--taught, according to the tradition, by a
soldier from foreign parts at some unknown date. This work is now
reviving, thanks to the energetic care of Mrs. Dawson.

[1236] Mr. A. S. Cole gives the following classification of Irish laces:--

There are seven sorts of Irish lace.

1. Flat needle-point lace.

2. Raised needle-point lace.

3. Embroidery on net, either darning or chain-stitch.

4. Cut cambric or linen work in the style of guipure or appliqué
lace.

5. Drawn thread-work in the style of Reticella, and Italian cut
points.

6. Pillow lace in imitation of Devon lace.

7. Crochet.

[1237] _History of Machine-Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture._ W.
Felkin. London, 1867.

[1238] See GERMANY.

[1239] An open stitch on stockings, called the "Derby rib," had been
invented by Jedediah Strutt, in 1758.

[1240] By Rev. William Lee, of Calverton (Nottinghamshire). The romantic
story is well known; but whether actuated, as usually stated, by
pique at the absorbing attention paid to her knitting by a lady,
when he was urging his suit--or, as others more amiably affirm, by a
desire to lighten the labour of his wife, who was obliged to
contribute to their joint support by knitting stockings--certain it
is that it was he who first conceived the idea of the
stocking-frame, and completed it about 1589. His invention met with
no support from Queen Elizabeth, so Lee went to France, where he was
well received by Henry IV.; but the same year Henry was
assassinated, and the Regent withdrawing her protection, Lee died of
grief and disappointment. The arms of the Framework Knitters'
Company (Fig. 162) are a stocking-frame, having for supporters
William Lee in full canonicals and a female holding in her hand
thread and a knitting-needle. After Lee's death his brother returned
to England, where Lee's invention was then appreciated.
Stocking-making became the fashion, everyone tried, it, and people
had their portraits taken with gold and silver needles suspended
round their necks.

[1241] Vandyke had also appended the chain to his stocking-frame, and the
zigzags formed by the ribs of his stockings were called "Vandyke,"
hence the term now generally applied to all indented edges.

[1242] Mechlin net was disused in 1819 from its too great elasticity.

[1243] The "bobbins" on which the thread is wound for the weft consist of
two circular copper plates riveted together, and fixed upon a small
carriage or frame which moves backwards and forwards like a weaver's
shuttle.

[1244] The Old Loughboro' employed sixty movements to form one mesh--a
result now obtained by twelve. It produced 1,000 meshes a
minute--then thought a wonderful achievement, as by the pillow only
five or six can be obtained. A good circular machine now produces
30,000 in the same time.

The quality of bobbin net depends upon the smallness of the meshes,
their equality in size, and the regularity of the hexagons.

[1245] Bobbin net is measured by the "rack," which consists of 240 meshes.
This mode of counting was adopted to avoid the frequent
disagreements about measure which arose between the master and the
workmen in consequence of the elasticity of the net. The exchange of
linen to cotton thread was the source of great regret to the Roman
Catholic clergy, who by ecclesiastical law can only wear albs of
flax.

[1246] This association was formed by Ludlam, or General Ludd, as he was
called, a stocking-frame worker at Nottingham in 1811, when prices
had fallen. The Luddites, their faces covered with a black veil,
armed with swords and pistols, paraded the streets at night, entered
the workshops, and broke the machines with hammers. A thousand
machines were thus destroyed. Soon the net-workers joined them and
made a similar destruction of the bobbin net machines. Although many
were punished, it was only with the return of work that the society
disappeared in 1817.

[1247] Heathcoat represented Tiverton from 1834 to 1859, colleague of Lord
Palmerston.

Steam power was first introduced by Mr. J. Lindley in 1815-16, but
did not come into active operation till 1820; it became general
1822-23.

[1248] McCulloch.

[1249] The most extraordinary changes took place in the price of the
finished articles. Lace which was sold by Heathcoat for 5 guineas a
yard soon after the taking out of his patent can now be equalled at
eighteenpence a yard; quillings, as made by a newly-constructed
machine in 1810, and sold at 4s. 6d., can now be equalled and
excelled at 1½d. a yard; while a certain width of net which brought
£17 per piece 20 years ago is now sold for 7s. (1843). Progressive
value of a square yard of plain cotton bobbin net:

£ s. s. d.
1809 5 0 1830 2 0
1813 2 0 1833 1 4
1815 1 10 1836 0 10
1818 1 0 1842 0 6
1821 0 12 1850 0 4
1824 0 8 1856 0 3
1827 0 4 1862 0 3

_Histoire du Tulle et des Dentelles mécaniques en Angleterre et en
France_, par S. Ferguson fils. Paris, 1862.

"Bobbin net and lace are cleaned from the loose fibres of the cotton
by the ingenious process of gassing, as it is called, invented by
the late Mr. Samuel Hall, of Nottingham. A flame of gas is drawn
through the lace by means of a vacuum above. The sheet of lace
passes to the flame opaque and obscured by loose fibre, and issues
from it bright and clear, not to be distinguished from lace made of
the purest linen thread, and perfectly uninjured by the
flame."--_Journal of the Society of Arts._ Jan., 1864.

[1250] In 1826 Mr. Huskisson's reduction of the duty on French tulle caused
so much distress in Leicester and Nottingham, that ladies were
desired to wear only English tulle at court; and in 1831 Queen
Adelaide appeared at one of her balls in a dress of English silk
net.

[1251] John Hindres, in 1656, first established a stocking-frame in France.

[1252] The net produced was called "Tulle simple et double de Lyon et de
Vienne." The net was single loops, hence the name of "single press,"
given to these primitive frames.

[1253] In 1801 George Armitage took a "point net" machine to Antwerp, and
made several after the same model, thus introducing the manufacture
into Belgium. He next went to Paris, but the wholesale contraband
trade of Hayne left him no hope of success. He afterwards went to
Prussia to set up net and stocking machines. At the age of
eighty-two he started for Australia, where he died, in 1857, aged
eighty-nine.

[1254] The great difficulty encountered by the French manufacturers
consisted in the cotton. France did not furnish cotton higher than
No. 70; the English ranges from 160 to 200. The prohibition of
English cotton obliged them to obtain it by smuggling until 1834,
when it was admitted on paying a duty. Now they make their own, and
are able to rival Nottingham in the prices of their productions. A
great number of Nottingham lace-makers have emigrated to Calais.

[1255] The Caen blond first suggested the idea.

[1256] The first net frame was set up at Brussels in 1801. Others followed
at Termonde, 1817; Ghent, 1828; Sainte Fosse, etc.

[1257] D. Wyatt.

[1258] Mr. Ferguson, the inventor of the bullet-hole, square net (tulle
carré), and wire-ground (point de champ ou de Paris), had
transferred his manufacture, in 1838, from Nottingham to Cambrai,
where, in partnership with M. Jourdan, he made the "dentelle de
Cambrai," and in 1852 the "lama" lace, which differs from the
Cambrai inasmuch as the weft (_trame_) is made of mohair instead of
silk. Mr. Ferguson next established himself at Amiens, where he
brought out the Yak, another mixed lace.

[1259] The first patents were:--

1836. Hind and Draper took out one in France, and 1837 in England.

1838. Ferguson takes a patent at Cambrai under the name of his
partner Jourdan.

1839. Crofton.

1841. Houston and Deverill, for the application of the Jacquard to
the Leaver machine. The great manufactures of Nottingham and Calais
are made on the Leaver Jacquard frame.

The first patterned net was produced, 1780, by E. Frost, the
embroidery made by hand.

[1260] Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-Making. A. S. Cole. 1880.

[1261] "The machines now in use are the Circular, Leaver, Transverse Warp
and Pusher. Out of 3,552 machines computed to be in England in 1862
2,448 were at Nottingham."--_International Exhibition, Juror's
Report._

[1262] _Daphne lagetta._

[1263] He makes a paste of the plant which is the usual food of the
caterpillar, and spreads it thinly over a stone or other flat
substance; then with a camel's-hair pencil dipped in olive oil he
draws upon the coating of paste the pattern he wishes the insects to
leave open. The stone being placed in an inclined position, the
caterpillars* are laid at the bottom, and the animals eat and spin
their way up to the top, carefully avoiding every part touched by
the oil, but devouring the rest of the paste.--_Encyclopædia
Britannica._

* _Phalæna pandilla._

[1264] Two interesting papers were published in the _Gazette des Beaux
Arts_ for 1863 and 1864, entitled, "Essai bibliographique sur les
anciens dessins de dentelles, modèles de tapisseries, patrons de
broderies et publiés le xvi. et le xvii. siècle," &c, by the Marquis
Girolamo d'Addo, of Milan.

[1265] Cambridge University Library.

[1266] Paris, Bibliothèque Nat. Gravures, L. h. 13 d.*

[1267] Bib. Nat. V. 1897.*--Genoa. Cav. Merli, 1528 (?).

[1268] Paris, Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,952.*

[1269] Oxford, Bib. Bodleian.

[1270] Milan, Cavaliere Bertini.

[1271] Venice, Library of St. Mark.

[1272] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 13. e.*

[1273] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,951.*

[1274] Silvestre, _Marques Typographiques des Imprimeurs en France, depuis
1470_. Paris, 1853-61.

[1275] Quoted in Cat. Cappi, of Bologna, 1829.

[1276] Quoted in Cat. Cappi, of Bologna, 1829.

[1277] _Ibid._

[1278] _Ibid._

[1279] Cat. Bib. Heber., part vi., p. 258. No. 3,514.

[1280] Paris, Bib. Sainte-Geneviève. V. 634.* Bound in one volume with the
three following. (Nos. 16, 17, and 18.)--Catalogue de Livres
provenant de la Bibliothèque de M. L. D. D. L. V. (Duke de La
Vallière). Paris, 1763. T. xi., No. 2,204.

[1281] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat.
d'Estrées. Paris, 1740-46. No. 8,843.3.

[1282] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat.
d'Estrées. No. 8,843. 1.

[1283] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11.953.*

[1284] Paris, Bib. Baron Jérôme Pichon.*

[1285] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4.*

[1286] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4. a.*--Catalogo ragionato dei libri posseduti
dal Conte di Cicognara. Pisa, 1821. No. 1,818.

[1287] Library V. and A. Museum.--Venice, Lib. St. Mark,--Milan, Bib.
Marquis d'Adda.

[1288] Milan, Bib. Marquis G. d'Adda.

[1289] Rome, Bib. Prince Massimo.

[1290] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954 (with D. de Sera).*

[1291] Genoa, Cav. Merli.

[1292] Quoted by Cav. Merli.

[1293] Florence. M. Bigazzi.

[1294] Paris, Bib. Nat. Milan, Bib. Belgiosa and Marquis d'Adda.

[1295] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*--Bologna, Bib. Comm.--Cat. d'Estrées.
8843. No. 2.

[1296] Mr. E. Arnold.

[1297] Royal Library, Munich.

[1298] Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 4.

[1299] Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Mr. E. Arnold.

[1300] Florence, M. Bigazzi.

[1301] Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 1. Bound in one volume, with six others.

[1302] _Ibid._ 1583. No. 5.

[1303] Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 6.

[1304] _Ibid._ 1583. No. 7.

[1305] Cat. Cicognara. No. 17

[1306] _Ibid._ 1583. No. 3.

[1307] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*

[1308] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*--Mrs. Stisted. Bagni di Lucca.

[1309] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées.

[1310] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées.

[1311] Trezola, in the Riviera dialect, signifies a plait-tresse. "Porta i
capei in trezola." ("She wears her hair plaited.")

[1312] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955 _bis_,* with _Vera Perfettione_ and
_Fiori_ of F. Franceschi, and _Corona_ of Vecellio.

[1313] Quoted by Willemin.

[1314] Quoted in Art. "Tricot et Travaux des Dames."

[1315] Bib. M. d'Adda.

[1316] Dresden, New Museum for Art and Industry. Communicated by Mr.
Gruner.

[1317] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954.*

[1318] Milan. Bib. Marquis Girolamo d'Adda.

[1319] Bib. Rouen. No. 1313. Both Parts in one vol.*

[1320] We have received notice of there being a copy of the original
edition at Turin, in the Library of the University.

[1321] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2.* (with Part I.): "Ex Bibliotheca
illustrissimi Johannis d'Estrées Cameracensis Archiepiscopi
designati quam Monasterio St. Germani à Pratis legavit. Anno 1718."

[1322] Brussels, Bib. Roy. M. Alvin, Conservateur en Chef.

[1323] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b.*

[1324] Bib. Ste. Geneviève (with 1st Part).*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b.
(with 1st Part).*

[1325] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954 _bis._*

[1326] British Museum. Grenville Lib. 2584.*

[1327] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 1. a.*

[1328] Brussels, Bib. Roy.--Cat. Cicognara. No. 1822.

[1329] Quoted in Watt's Bibliographia Britannica.

[1330] Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,954 _ter._*

[1331] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955 _bis._*--Bib. Bodleian.

[1332] _Ibid._

[1333] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955* (with Books 2 and 3). _Mazzette_ means
detached bouquets--sprigs.

[1334] Rouen, Bib. Bound in one vol. with the three parts of the _Corona_.*

[1335] Communicated by Mr. Gruner.

[1336] Note of M. Leber, who gives the dates of the dedication of the Rouen
copy as follows:--B. 1, 20 Jan.; B. 2, 24 Jan.; B. 3, 15 June, all
1591. The _Gioiello_, 10 Nov., 1592. The vol. containing the two
works has 101 plates, in addition to 10 leaves of titles,
dedications, etc.

[1337] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1338] Brussels, Bib. Royale. Jean de Glen is also author of a work
entitled _Des Habits, Moeurs, Ceremonies, Façons de faire, anciennes
& modernes du Monde, par J. de Glen, Linger_. Liége. J. de Glen.
1601. In-8.

[1339] Lyon. M. Yemenis.

[1340] Turin, Count Manzoni.

[1341] Berlin, Royal Library.

[1342] Dresden, New Museum of Art and Industry.

[1343] Bib. Nat. V. 1902,* and Grav. L. h. 3.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal.
11,956.*--Bib. Ste. Geneviève.*

[1344] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1345] Bib. Nat. Grav. B. c. 22. Vinciolo.*

[1346] Catalogue des Livres de feu M. Picard. 1780. No. 455.

[1347] Brussels, Bib. Royale.

[1348] Nuremberg, German Museum.

[1349] Jew's stitch is given both by Sibmacher and Latomus. (No. 95.) We
do not know what it is.

[1350] Cited by Cav. Merli, in his _Origine delle Trine_.

[1351] Cat. Evans, Strand.

[1352] Paris, Musée de Cluny.*

[1353] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4. b*.--Nuremberg, German Museum.

[1354] Stockholm. Royal Library. (Communicated by the librarian, Mr. H.
Wieselgren.) In the same library is a work, without title-page or
date, for "broderies et de tous autres besongnant à l'aiguille," by
Hieronymus Cock, containing, with designs of every description, a
few patterns for Spanish point of great beauty.

[1355] Bib. Baron J. Pichon, 2 copies.*--Cat. d'Estrées.--Bib. Nat. Grav.
B. c. 22.* (Title-page wanting.)

[1356] Bib. Rouen. No. 1,314.*--Bib. Baron J. Pichon.*

[1357] Florence, Bib. Prof. Santerelli.--Rome, Bib. Prince Massimo.

[1358] Cat. Evans, Strand.

[1359] Hesse-Cassel, Public Library. Communicated by Mr. N. R. Bernhardi,
the head Librarian.

[1360] Lowndes, _Bibliographer's Manual_. New edit. by Henry Bohn.

[1361] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1362] Vienna, Imperial Library.

[1363] Brussels, Bib. Roy.

[1364] Bib. Imp. Grav. L. h. 2. a.*--Brussels, Bib. Roy.--Cat. d'Estrées
8847.

[1365] In the possession of Mrs. Marryat. "Maes y dderwen."--Bib. Bodleian.

[1366] Quoted by Mr. Douce (_Illustrations of Shakspeare_).

[1367] S. Marino. M. P. Bonella.

[1368] Berlin, Roy. Library.

[1369] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,956 _bis_.*

[1370] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1371] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1372] _Ibid._

[1373] _A History of Hand-made Lace._ Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum,
1900.

[1374] _A History of Hand-made Lace._ Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum.
1900.

[1375] _A History of Hand-made Lace._ Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum.
1900.

[1376] _A History of Hand-made Lace._ Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum.
1900.