Chapter XI: Part IV: Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait (4)

A small drawer may also be provided in the front, in which to put away the soap and brushes, and the wash boiler can be set underneath. When one is through washing, the bracket at the back is let down, the washstand set up against the wall out of the way, and everything is then in its place, ready for the next wash day.--Contributed by Chas. Homewood, Waterloo, Ia.

Pipe Used as a Leather Punch

The sketch shows how a very cheap and serviceable leather punch can be made of an old pipe nipple. Pieces of pipe of almost any size can be found around a shop, and it is, therefore, usually possible to quickly make a punch of the required size. The cutter end can be ground very thin to prevent an over-cut, while a small slot cut a little above it will allow the removal of the leather slugs. For its purpose, this homemade tool is all that can be desired in cheapness and utility.

To Prevent Oilcloth from Cracking

A good method to prevent oilcloth from cracking, when it is used on shop tables or counters, is to first cut a paper cover for the table on which to place the oilcloth and prepare it as follows: The paper should be well oiled with common machine oil and placed smoothly on the table to be covered. The oilcloth is then smoothed out on top of the paper and stretched tightly. The oiled paper tends to keep the under side of the cloth moist, which prevents cracking. The cloth wears much longer because the paper acts as a pad.

How to Make a Flymobile By Edward Sieja

The boy owning a pushmobile, or even a power-driven auto car, is often very much disappointed because motion soon stops when the power is not applied. The car illustrated is of a little different type, being equipped with a flywheel that will propel the car and carry the rider a considerable distance after stopping the pedaling. The flywheel also aids the operator, as it will steady the motion and help him over a rough place or a bump in the road.

The main frame of the flymobile is made up of a few pieces of 2 by 4-in. timbers. The pieces A are 6 ft. 4 in. long, and the end crosspieces B, 24 in. long. These are jointed, glued and screwed together, as shown in Fig. 1. The frame that supports the driving parts consists of a piece, C, 6 ft. 2 in. long, and a piece D, 2 ft. 11 in. long. These are fitted in the main frame and securely fastened to the end crosspieces B. Two other crosspieces, E and F, are used to strengthen the driving-parts frame.

The entire hanger G, with its bearings, cranks and pedals, can be procured from a discarded bicycle and fastened to the piece C; the barrel holding the bearings being snugly fitted into a hole bored in the piece with an expansive bit. The location will depend on the builder and should be marked as follows: Place the hanger on top of the piece C, then put a box or board on the frame where the seat is to be and set the hanger where it will be in a comfortable position for pedaling. Mark this location and bore the hole.

The transmission H consists of a bicycle coaster-brake hub, shown in detail in Fig. 2. A split pulley, J, 6 in. in diameter, is bored out to fit over the center of the hub between the spoke flanges. The halves of the pulley are then clamped on the hub with two bolts, run through the holes in opposite directions. Their heads and nuts are let into countersunk holes so that no part will extend above the surface of the pulley. The supports for the hub axle consist of two pieces of bar iron, 4 in. long, drilled to admit the axle ends, and screws for fastening them to the frame pieces C and D. This construction is clearly shown in Fig. 2.

The arrangement of the coaster-brake hub produces the same effect as a coaster brake on a bicycle. The one propelling the flymobile may stop the foot-power work without interfering with the travel of the machine, and, besides, a little back pressure on the pedals will apply the brake in the same manner.

The flywheel K should be about 18 in. in diameter with a 2-in. rim, or face. Such a wheel can be purchased cheaply from any junk dealer. The flywheel is set on a shaft, turning between the pieces C and D and back of the coaster-brake wheel H. Two pulleys, L, about 3 in. in diameter, are fastened to turn with the flywheel on the shaft and are fitted with flanges to separate the belts. The ends of the shaft should run in good bearings, well oiled.

Another pulley, M, 6 in. in diameter, is made of wood and fastened to the rear axle. An idler wheel, shown in Fig. 3, is constructed of a small pulley, or a large spool, attached to an L-shaped piece of metal, which in turn is fastened on the end of a shaft controlled by the lever N. The function of this idler is to tighten up the belt or release it, thus changing the speed in the same manner as on a motorcycle.

The elevation of the flymobile is given in Fig. 4, which shows the arrangement of the belting. The size of the pulleys on the flywheel shaft causes it to turn rapidly, and, for this reason, the weight of the wheel will run the car a considerable distance when the coaster hub is released.

The rear axle revolves in bearings, half of which is recessed in the under edges of the pieces A while the other half is fastened to a block, screwed on over the axle. A simple brake is made as shown in Fig. 5. Two metal pieces, O, preferably brass, are shaped to fit over the shaft with extending ends for fastening them to the pieces P and Q, as shown. These pieces are hinged with strap iron, R, at one end, the other end of the piece P being fastened to the crosspiece F, Fig. 1, of the main frame. The lower piece Q is worked by the lever S and side bars, T. A small spring, U, keeps the ends of the pieces apart and allows the free turning of the axle until the brake lever is drawn. The lever S is connected by a long bar to the hand lever V.

The steering apparatus W, Figs. 1 and 4, is constructed of a piece of gas pipe, 3 ft. 4 in. long, with a wheel at one end and a cord, X, at the other. The center part of the cord is wound several times around the pipe and the ends are passed through screweyes in the main frame pieces A and attached to the front axle, which is pivoted in the center under the block Y. The lower end of the pipe turns in a hole bored slanting in the block. A turn of the steering wheel causes one end of the cord to wind and the other to unwind, which turns the axle on the center pivot.

The wheels are bicycle wheels, and the ends of the front axle are turned to receive the cones and nuts, instead of using the regular hub axles. The ends of the rear axle are turned to closely fit the hubs after the ball cups have been removed. A large washer and nut clamp each wheel to the axle so that it will turn with it.

The body can be made up as desired, from sheet metal, wood, or cloth stretched over ribs of wood, and painted in the manner of an automobile. A tank and tires can be placed on the back to add to the appearance. Fenders and a running board can be attached to the main frame.

With the addition of some crosspieces in the main frame at the front and a motorcycle engine fastened to them so that the driving sprocket will be in line with the sprocket on the coaster hub, the builder will have a real cyclecar.

The Die-and-Box Trick

The die-and-box trick, so often performed on the stage, is a very interesting and mystifying one. The apparatus, however, is simple, consisting of a box, die, a piece of tin in the form of three adjacent sides of the die, and a hat. The die and box are constructed entirely of wood, 1/8 in. thick, and the piece of tin can be cut from any large coffee can. The box is closed by four doors, as shown in Fig. 1, two of which are 2-3/4 in. square, and the others, 3-1/8 in. by 3-1/4 in. The first two are the front doors and are preferably hinged with cloth to the two uprights A and B. Small pieces of tin are fastened on the doors at C and D, to provide a means to open them. The other doors are placed on top and are hinged to the back, as shown.

The die is 3 in. square on all sides, and is constructed of two pieces, 3 in. square; two pieces, 2-3/4 in. by 3 in., and two pieces, 2-3/4 in. square. These are fastened together with 1/2-in. brads. The tin, forming the false die, is cut out as shown in Fig. 2, and is then bent on the dotted lines and soldered together on the joint formed by the two edges E and F. All parts should be painted a dull black with white spots on the die and false die.

The trick is performed as follows: Procure a hat from some one in the audience and place in it the die with the tin false die covering three sides of the block, at the same time telling the audience that the block will be caused to pass from the hat into the box, the latter being placed some distance away. Inform the audience that it would be more difficult for the die to pass from the box into the hat. Remove the tin piece from the hat and leave the die, holding the surfaces of the false die toward the audience. This will give the impression that the die has been removed. Set the hat on the table above the level of the eyes of the audience. With the back of the box toward the audience, open one top door and insert the tin piece in the right-hand compartment so that one side touches the back, another the side and the other the bottom of the box. Close the door and open the two doors of the opposite compartment which, when shown, will appear to be empty. Tilt the box to this side and open the doors of the side opposite to the one just opened, which, of course, will be empty. This should be done several times until some one asks that all doors be opened at the same time. After a few more reversals and openings as given, open all doors and show it empty, then take the die from the hat.--Contributed by Harold L. Groesbeck, Salt Lake City, Utah.

Homemade Pantograph

The pantograph consists of four pieces of wood, the dimensions depending somewhat on the size of the work to be drawn. A convenient size for ordinary drawing and enlarging is constructed of four pieces of hardwood, preferably maple, 3/16 in. thick and 5/8 in. wide, two of them 20-3/4 in. in length and the other two, 18-3/4 in. long. These are planed and sandpapered and the ends cut round.

All four pieces are laid flat on a level board or bench top with their edges together so that the edges of the two longer pieces make right angles with a line drawn tangent to their ends. One end of one short piece is placed flush with the lower ends of the two long pieces, and one end of the other short piece flush with the upper ends, as shown. They should be clamped down solidly to keep them from moving while laying off the divisions. Light lines are drawn across their faces as designated by the dimensions. On these lines and exactly in the center of the pieces make small marks with a pencil point. Through the pieces A and B holes are drilled to snugly receive the body of a small screweye. The other two pieces are drilled with a smaller drill so that the threads of the screweye will take hold in the wood.

The end C of the piece A has a metal stand made of brass as shown at D. This is fastened to the end of the wood with a small bolt. The hole should be a snug fit over the body of the bolt. The lower ends of the brass are drilled to admit thumb tacks for holding it to the drawing board.

The joint at E is made of a suitable binding post that can be procured at an electrical shop, the shank below the two joined pieces to be the same length as the height of the metal stand D. The end should be filed round and polished so that it will slip over the board or paper easily.

The stylus or tracing point F is made of another binding post, in the same manner, but instead of a rounding end a slightly blunt, pointed end is filed on it. The end of the piece G is strengthened by gluing a small block of the same material on both upper and under side. A hole is then made through them to receive a pencil rather tightly.

The holes, as will be seen, are numbered from 1 to 34. At the crossing of each pair, H and J, the screweyes must be set in the holes numbered alike on both pieces of each pair. This will insure the proper working of the parts. The other numbers designate how much the instrument will enlarge a picture or reduce it. On the pair not numbered in the sketch the numbers run in the opposite direction.

The end C is fastened to the left side of the drawing board, the picture to be enlarged is placed under the stylus or tracer point, and the paper under the pencil point G. Move the tracing point over the general outline of the picture without making any line before starting, so as to make sure that the paper and picture are located right. It is then only necessary to take hold of the pencil and move it over the paper while watching the tracer point to keep it following the lines of the picture. To make a reduced picture, the original is placed under G, the tracer point changed to G and the pencil to F.

Trapping Mosquitoes

Mosquitoes that light on the ceiling may be easily destroyed with the instrument shown in the sketch. It consists of a cover, such as used on jelly glasses, nailed to the end of an old broom handle. A little kerosene oil is placed in the cover and the device is passed closely beneath the location of the mosquitoes. They will be overcome by the fumes and drop into the fluid as soon as it comes under them.--Contributed by J. J. Kolar, Maywood, Ill.

Pen Rack on an Ink Bottle

A piece of wire, about 1 ft. long, is bent into the shape shown and slipped over the neck of the ink bottle. The ends forming the loop around the neck should fit tightly. The upper part of the wire is shaped to hold the penholder.--Contributed by W. A. Saul, E. Lexington, Mass.

Substitute for a Broken Bench-Vise Nut

It is frequently the case that the nut on a bench-vise screw breaks from being subjected to a too violent strain. If one is working in a place where a new nut cannot be obtained, the broken part may be replaced by the substitute shown in the sketch. Any piece of strap iron may be used, and with a round file and a drill the two pieces can soon be made and attached to the bench with screws or bolts. A slight twist of the shaped ends is necessary to make them fit the angle of the thread.--Contributed by Oscar M. Waddell, Lamedeer, Mont.

Scissors Sharpener

Procure an ordinary wood clothespin and drill a 1/8-in. hole through its blades, then insert a piece of hardened 1/8-in. drill rod, which should be a driving fit. In using this device, take the scissors and attempt to cut the steel rod. Do this three or four times and a good cutting edge will be obtained.--Contributed by Wm. J. Tolson, Lyons, Iowa.

* * * * *

An imitation-gold color may be made with flake
white, ground in varnish and tinted with a touch of
vermilion. When striping or lettering is done with
this, it will have the appearance of real gilding
work.

Floor Push Button

An ordinary electric push button can be used for a floor push button by placing it on a bracket or shelf attached to a joist, as shown, and using a nail for the extension push. A 1/4-in. hole is bored through the floor, also through a small piece of wood fastened beneath the floor, at the right place to direct the nail so that it will strike directly upon the small black knob of the push button. The nail should be just long enough to rest lightly on the knob.--Contributed by Reginald R. Insole, Hamilton, Can.

A Wrist Brace

To strengthen a weak wrist, take a piece of leather, preferably white oak tanned, 2 in. wide and 14 in. long, and carefully shave it down with a sharp knife, until it is 1/16 in. thick. Then cut it as shown in Fig. 1, the wide part or body being 7 in. long, and the narrow part or neck, 6 in. long and 1 in. wide. Cut a semicircular hole, 1 in. from the extreme end of the body, 1/2 in. wide and 1-1/4 in. long, to allow the neck to slip through, then punch three holes in each end and lace with rawhide or shoestring, or, better still, if you happen to have a small buckle, sew it neatly to the body. It looks better and saves time in adjusting. When complete and on the wrist, it will appear as in Fig. 2.--Contributed by J. H. Harris, Berkeley, Cal.

Protecting a Kettle Handle from Heat

The wood handle of a kettle or cooking utensil when not in use usually comes in contact with the side of the vessel and it will absorb enough heat each time to finally char and crack the wood. The heat of the handle at times is so intense that it often results in a burned hand. The spiral metal handle provides a way for cooling by exposing a considerable surface to the air, yet the metal retains the heat so that many times it is too hot to handle. If a wood handle is provided with a coil of wire as shown in the accompanying sketch, the wood cannot come in contact with the side of the heated vessel and the air encircling the wood prevents it from getting too hot to handle. The spiral can be attached to a metal handle with solder.

Tin Can Used for Watering Chickens

An ordinary discarded tomato can makes a good watering vessel for young chickens. Care must be taken in opening the can to cut the tin so the cover will hinge. Cut the tin about 1-1/2 in. from the bottom so that it will form a U-shaped piece as shown in the sketch and push the hanging portion in the can. Fill the can up to the opening with water, close the cover and set it in the coop.--Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell, Augusta, Ga.

How to Make a Hurdle

The hurdle consists of two standards, a reach, and a swing. The swing is first made in the shape of a rectangle of four pieces of wood, about 7/8 in. thick and 1-1/2 in. wide, of which two are 36 in. and the others 18 in. long. These pieces are nailed together in the manner shown.

Each standard is made of three pieces of wood, 7/8 in. thick, 3 in. wide, and 18 in. long. Nail the pieces firmly together, as shown, and connect their bases with another piece of the same material, 36 in. long. When this is finished, connect the swing to the standards with long nails, A, at the ends slightly off center. Before inserting the nails, make the holes in each standard to receive them large enough to permit the nails to turn freely without allowing the heads to pass through. Thus the frame will swing freely at the slightest touch of the jumper's foot, and right itself immediately.--Contributed by C. C. Fraser, Saginaw, Mich.

Oil Burner for a Cook Stove

The parts of the burner consist of ordinary gas pipe and fittings. The pipe in which the kerosene oil is converted into gas is 1/2 in. in diameter and is connected to a supply tank of oil with 1/4-in. pipe. The burner part is also constructed of 1/4-in. pipe having three 1/16-in. holes drilled in each end for the gas to escape where it burns. These burners are located just beneath the large pipe so that the flames will heat it and convert the oil into gas. A needle valve, A, is used to control the flow of oil. The burner is placed in the fire box of the stove, and the pipes connected through a hole drilled in the stove door, at B.

The tank may be rectangular or round and should be of sufficient strength to withstand 5 or 10 lb. of pressure. The top of the tank has a pet cock where a connecting hose from an air pump may be attached. The tank is filled about half full and just a little pressure of air is put on the oil. To start the burner, run a little oil in a pan or fire shovel and light it so that the flames will convert the oil into gas in the large pipe, then turn the valve A and regulate the flame.--Contributed by Robert Hays, Siloam Springs, Ark.

A Fish Stringer

The illustration shows a very simple and inexpensive device for the angler to string and carry fish. It is made of a pail handle through which is passed a piece of soft wire, having sufficient length for bends or loops at each end, and a piece of chain. A chain 18 in. long is sufficient. One end of the chain is fastened in the loop at one end of the handle, and the other has a piece of wire attached for pushing through the gills of the fish. The other end of the wire through the handle is arranged in a hook to catch into the links of the chain.--Contributed by G. O. Reed, Stratford, Canada.

Substitutes for Drawing Instruments

Three of the most used draftsman's instruments are the compass, ruler and square or triangle. When it is necessary to make a rough drawing and no instruments are at hand, common and easily obtainable things can be used as substitutes.

A sheet of heavy paper folded as shown at A will serve as a ruler, and the same sheet given another fold will make the square B. If given another fold diagonally, a 45-deg. triangle is formed. A substitute compass is readily made of a short pencil and a pocket knife, as shown at C.--Contributed by Jas. J. Joyce, Olongopo, Philippine Islands.

How to Make an Aspirator

A simple aspirator that may be used for a number of different purposes, such as accelerating the process of filtering, emptying water from tubs, producing a partial vacuum in vessels in which coils are being boiled in paraffin, etc., may be constructed as follows: Obtain two pieces of brass tubing of the following dimensions: one 7 in. long and 3/4 in. outside diameter, and the other, 3 in. long and 1/4 in. outside diameter. Drill a hole in one side of the large tube, about 3 in. from one end, of such a diameter that the small brass tube will fit it very tightly. Take an ordinary hacksaw and cut a slot in the side of the large piece, as shown at A. This slot is sawed diagonally across the tube and extends from one side to the center. Obtain a piece of sheet brass that will fit into this slot tightly, and then solder it and the small tube into the large tube. The slot and hole for the small tube should be so located with respect to each other that the small tube will empty into the larger one directly against the piece of sheet brass soldered in the slot.

The upper end of the large tube should be threaded inside to fit over the threads on the faucet, or an attachment soldered to it similar to those on the end of an ordinary garden hose. A rubber hose should be attached to the small tube and connected, as shown, to a piece of glass tubing that is sealed in the cork in the top of the large bottle. The funnel holding the filter paper is also sealed into the cork. Melted paraffin may be used in sealing the glass tube, funnel and cork in place, the object being to make them airtight. The filter paper should be folded so that it sticks tightly against the sides of the funnel when the liquid is poured in, thus preventing any air from entering the bottle between the paper and the funnel. Turn on the faucet, and it will be found that the time required to filter any liquid will be greatly reduced. Be careful, however, not to turn on too much water, as the suction may then be too strong and the filter paper become punctured.

A Key-Holder Hook

A good hook for hanging keys, toothbrushes and other small articles can be made from ordinary wire staples, as shown at A. One leg of the staple is cut away as shown at B and the other leg driven into the board as shown at C. These will answer the purpose as well as screwhooks.--Contributed by W. C. Heidt, Chicago.

A Hand Hoe

A hand hoe, especially adapted for weeding or cultivating small truck, particularly onions, can be made of a piece of hard wood, 7/8 by 1-3/4 in. by 4 ft. long, and a piece of old bucksaw blade. A blade, 18 in. long and 2 in. wide, bent into a loop is attached with bolts to the handle.--Contributed by Geo. H. Miller, Iowa City, Iowa.

Seed Receptacle for Bird-Cages

A handy seed and water container for a bird-cage can be made of a common spice tin. The receptacle can be filled without removal by simply taking off the cover. Thus the seed will not be scattered.

The tin is attached by cutting a hole in the back as shown, and bending the side edges to fit over the wires to hold it in place. The bottom strip is a support which rests on the floor of the cage and prevents the tin from slipping down on the wires.

Kitchen-Utensil Scraper

A flexible utensil scraper is one of the most useful articles I have in my kitchen. It covers such a large surface in scraping pans, kettles, etc., that this most disagreeable part of the kitchen work is quickly and easily accomplished.

The flexible blade is attached to the tin handles with small rivets. The blade should be thin and narrow enough to allow it to bend. When the handles are pressed together, the blade curves to the shape of the utensil's surface.--Contributed by Mrs. Della Schempp, Brodhead, Wis.

Anchor Posts for a Lawn Swing

A very substantial and convenient base for a lawn swing can be made by using four anchor posts of cement, as shown in Fig. 1. The posts are made with a recess, A, to receive the legs of the swing, and of any suitable size. They may be placed with the upper face on a level with the lawn, or higher if desired.

A rough mold box, Fig. 2, lined with paper, will do for making the posts. The box does not require any top or bottom; it is simply placed on a board and lifted away when the blocks are thoroughly dried. If the blocks are leveled when placed in the earth, the swing may be taken down and erected again without the usual leveling and bracing.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Automatic Filter

This funnel-filling filter automatically prevents the solution from running over if the filtering is slow or the filter substance becomes clogged. The upper inverted bottle holds the solution to be filtered, the cork being fitted with a glass tube as shown, and when in use the cork is forced into the neck of the bottle so that no air can enter between it and the glass. The support for holding the bottles has two brackets, one to fit the neck of the upper bottle and the other used as a shelf for the receiving bottle. In operation, the solution runs from the upper bottle into the funnel, holding the filter paper, but it cannot fill the funnel completely, because the end of the glass tube is lower than the edge of the funnel, and as soon as the liquid in the funnel covers the end of the tube, all inflow of air into the upper bottle is stopped, and, thereby, further flow of the solution into the funnel prevented, until enough has filtered through to uncover the end of the tube and thus permit air to again enter the upper bottle.--Contributed by G. Simons, Chicago.

Grinding Scissors

Whether a pair of scissors be ground or filed, the marks or scratches left from the contact with the abrasive should all extend across the bevel in the direction of the line ED, Fig. 1, and never in the direction of the line GF. If the cutting edge be examined under a magnifying glass, the tool marks or scratches left by the sharpening process will be very plainly seen, and where these scratches intersect with the face HI, Fig. 2, of the blade, they will appear as teeth along the cutting edge IK.

As a pair of scissors close, the natural tendency is to thrust the material to be cut out of the angle ABC, Fig. 1, but if these small teeth formed on the cutting edge point in the direction of the line ED, this slipping action is prevented or retarded because the fibrous material adheres to the fine teeth on the cutting edge of the blades.

Wet paper, silks, mohair cloths, etc., can be sheared with perfect ease and dispatch, when scissors are sharpened in this manner. The same principle holds good for metal snips.

The angle HIJ, Fig. 2, varies according to the material to be cut, and the type of shear. A greater angle is required on metal shears than on shears for domestic uses.--Contributed by A. Clifton, Chicago.

To Repair a Leak in a Canoe

After striking some rocks with our canoe, it sprung three very bad leaks. These were effectively patched with pieces of cheesecloth, well soaked in liquid shellac, which were pasted on the outside of the leak. After allowing this to set for a few hours, it will be almost impossible to remove the patch. This is an inexpensive and almost invariably a sure remedy for leaks. When the cloth is dry, paint it over with the same color as the boat, and the repair can scarcely be seen.--Contributed by William B. Smith, New York City.

Holder for Loose Window Glass

When the putty becomes loose and the glazing points work out on window glass, temporary repairs may be made by using a small piece of tin or sheet iron bent as shown in the sketch. The clip is inserted under the edge of the glass and hooked over the back of the sash parts. This will hold the glass firmly in place and also prevent rattling.

A Homemade Bench Vise

A form of a bench vise that can be easily made and attached to a workbench is shown in the illustration. This vise requires no screw, and the parts can be made from scrap material.

The substitute A for the screw is a rectangular piece of wood and is fastened with a tenon in a mortise cut in the vise jaw B. The clamping arrangement consists of a strap, C, attached to the piece A, then run over a pulley, D, and fastened to a foot pedal, E. The foot pedal is fulcrumed on a crosspiece of the bench and has a ratchet so as to hold it when the vise is set. The lower end of the vise is fitted with the usual form of device for parallel adjustment. A coil spring is located in the center for use in quickly opening the vise when the foot pedal is released.--Contributed by A. C. Westby, Porter, Minn.

A Cover Strainer

Quite frequently the cook or housewife wishes to pour the hot water or liquid from boiling vegetables or other foods without removing the solids from the kettle. This is easily accomplished, if small holes are drilled in the cover as shown in the sketch. The saucepan or kettle can be tilted and the liquid drains through the holes. Further, the steam from cooking food can readily escape through the holes, thus preventing the cover from vibrating, or the liquids from boiling over.

Homemade Corn Sheller

Where there is but a small quantity of corn to be shelled a sheller can be made of a few scraps of wood usually found on a farm. A block of wood having a sloping notch cut from one end is mounted on three legs as shown. The notched part as well as the lever is thickly filled with spikes driven in so that their heads protrude about 1/2 in.

The ear of corn is placed in the notched part and the lever pressed down. Two or three strokes of the lever will remove all the kernels from the cob. A box is provided and conveniently located on one leg to catch the shelled corn.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Gordon, Ont.

An Ornamental Metal Flatiron Holder

This antique iron holder or stand can be easily constructed by the amateur bent-iron worker. A strip of iron is bent over at the ends to form the side legs, and the front leg is formed of another piece, welded in the center.

Openings for the crosspieces are then cut, the legs bent into a scroll shape, and the crosspieces inserted and fastened by spreading or upsetting the ends.

Instead of using strap iron, the stand can be cut from good sheet metal. This would save the trouble of welding on the front leg.

How to Make a Watch Demagnetizer

A watch demagnetizer that will give excellent satisfaction may be made as follows:

Procure a sheet of 1/16 in. brass, 3-1/4 in. by 7 in. Bend this piece of brass around a piece of hard wood having a rectangular cross section of 2-1/2 in. by 1 in. The joint between the two ends should be made on one side, and the edges should lack about 1/8 in. of touching. Next obtain two pieces of 1/8 in. brass, 3-3/4 in. by 3 in., and cut an opening in each of these, 2-5/8 in. by 1-1/8 in., as shown in the sketch. Bend one edge of each of these pieces over at right angles to the main portion of the piece. Solder these two pieces on the ends of the rectangular tube of brass and cut a slot in each of them to correspond to the one in the rectangular tube. Place the rectangular piece of wood back in the tube and you are ready for the winding. Use No. 18 gauge single cotton-covered copper wire and fill the winding space. Several layers of paper should be placed on the brass tube and between the layers of wire, to serve as an insulation. Holes may be drilled in the projecting portions on the ends and the coil can then be mounted on a wooden base. Mount two binding posts on this base and connect the terminals of the winding to them.

To use the demagnetizer, connect it to a 110-volt alternating-current circuit with a rheostat in circuit of such a form that the current will not exceed three amperes and that it may be reduced to practically zero in value by increasing the resistance of the rheostat. The magnetic field inside the coil is rapidly changing in direction and will tend to destroy any permanent magnetism that may be possessed by an object placed inside of it. The full current of three amperes should be allowed to pass through the winding for a few minutes after the object to be demagnetized is inserted, and then gradually reduced, and the object removed.

Remodeling a Talking Machine

Having a talking machine of an old model with a tapered horn I decided to change it into a more modern type, and this was accomplished as follows: An auxiliary base was constructed of 1/2 in. wood on which to set the part which revolves the disks. The inside of this base is so constructed as to form a horn or sounding box. The two sides and sloping bottom of the horn-part are made of 1/4 in. wood. The form of this box is shown in Fig. 1. The dimensions should be determined according to the size of the talking machine.

The connecting parts to the original horn were turned downward, as shown at A, Fig. 2, with the opening entering a piece of ordinary gas pipe of sufficient length to allow an elbow with a nipple to enter the auxiliary base. The pivot-holding device for connection A is shown at D. The parts are attached to the box with a clasp, E, and with three screws in the nipple C, the end view of which is shown at F. The talking machine is placed on the auxiliary base as shown in Fig. 3. This construction produces a talking machine on the order of a cabinet machine without the tapering horn.--Contributed by H. W. J. Lomglatz, Harrisburg, Pa.

Needle for Sewing Burlap

A needle for sewing burlap can be easily made of the ordinary opener that comes with sardine cans. All that is necessary to convert this tool into a needle is to grind the blunt end to a sharp point, as shown in the sketch.--Contributed by G. C. Beven, Sault Ste. Marie, Ont.

A Mysterious Revolving Wheel

The mystery of this wheel is that it seems to revolve automatically without any visible external power. It is at the same time an amusing trick and an instructive experiment. The apparatus required is very simple and can be made at home.

A glass bottle is half filled with sand and water, so that it will stand securely, and a cork placed in the neck. Into this cork a needle should be inserted so that it projects perpendicularly, which is most easily done by heating one end of the needle to a red heat and then pushing it into the cork as deeply as possible. Into a disk of cork of suitable thickness and at four points on its side, at equal distances apart, are inserted four pieces of copper wire of the same length, each bent at the outer end to form a hook--these copper wires thus forming the spokes of the wheel. The rim is made of a small iron wire bent in a circular shape and held in the hooks on the ends of the copper wires. The now completed wheel is balanced on the free point on the needle, so that it can turn easily.

Place an alcohol lamp in such a position that when it is lighted the tip of the flame will just reach the rim of the wheel. (Any other flame that will not soot the rim may be used.) In the box A, placed with its bottom level with the wheel, put a horseshoe magnet so that the flame is opposite one of its poles. After the lamp has been lighted for a few seconds, the wheel will begin to revolve, seemingly without cause. Why does it do so? Because the magnet magnetizes or attracts the part of the ring nearest it while cold, but not when it is glowing. Instead, it will attract the cooler part of the ring nearest behind the flame and so on, the wheel thus spinning round, faster in the same proportion as the magnet is stronger and the iron rim smaller.

If this experiment is shown before spectators as a trick, the performer may say to the audience that he alone can make the wheel spin around without touching it. Should some one accept his challenge, he may, in a careless way, move the box containing the magnet away or turn it around so that it will not influence the iron ring and then, of course, the wheel will remain immovable.

How to Make a Rabbet Plane

A rabbet plane is very little used by mechanics, but when it is wanted for a piece of work, it is wanted badly. While doing an unusual piece of work I needed a rabbet plane, and having none, I made a plane as shown in the sketch in less time than it would have taken to go out and borrow one.

The body of the plane was made of a piece of 2 by 4-in. pine, 1 ft. long. A 1-in. chisel was used for the bit. A place was marked on one side of the wood to be cut out for the chisel, and a 1-in. hole bored through, the narrow way, so that one edge of the bit cut through the bottom, forming a slit for the edge of the chisel. After cutting a groove for the chisel blade and turning in a long wood screw as shown, to hold the chisel in place, I had as good a rabbet plane as could be purchased.--Contributed by W. H. Young, Thompson, Ga.

Eye Shield for a Microscope

The difficulty and discomfort amateurs experience in learning to use a microscope with both eyes open, or in trying to keep one eye shut, can be easily overcome by attaching a piece of cardboard, similar in shape to the one shown in the sketch, to the barrel of the microscope. The hole A should be of sufficient diameter to allow the cardboard to slide freely up and down on the barrel to the proper adjustment. This simple arrangement will relieve a great deal of the eye strain and will be of assistance to the most experienced users of microscopes.--Contributed by G. B. Fenton, Charleston, W. Virginia.

Transferring Magazine Pictures

Select pictures from newly printed papers and magazines. Rub wax from a paraffin candle over a sheet of clean white paper, covering a space as large as the picture to be copied. Place the paper, waxed side down, on the picture and while holding it firmly with the fingers of one hand, rub the back thoroughly with some hard substance until all parts of the picture have been gone over. Remove the paper and a perfect copy of the picture will be found upon the waxed side.--Contributed by Kenneth G. Merlin, Brooklyn, N. Y.

A Homemade Egg Separator

Secure some small wire and a very large can. Cut the wire into several pieces and bend them as shown at A, cut the can and bend the side down as shown and punch holes to receive the upper ends of the wires. Make the holes so that the wires will be about 5/16 in. apart.

A Glue-Spreader Holder

The spreader that is supplied with bottles of liquid glue should not be placed on any surface, as it will soon stick to it. A holder that will keep the spreader in a safe place can be made of a piece of wire which is twisted about the neck of the bottle, as shown in the sketch, and the ends bent up to receive the spreader.

Stop on a Chair Rocker for a Baby

For a baby, too small to rock without tipping the chair over, a small willow or other suitable rocking chair may be made safe in the following manner:

A strip, A, is fastened on the outside of the rocker with small screws so that it may be removed without injuring the chair. A rubber-covered tack driven in on the under side at each end of the strip modifies the shock and the baby can rock to its heart's content without danger of turning over.--Contributed by Mrs. G. W. Coplin, Bay City, Mich.

Homemade Countersink for Wood

A round or flat-head bolt can be made into a good rosebit or reamer for countersinking holes for screw heads. In the illustration, Fig. 1 shows a reamer made of a round-head bolt, and Fig. 2, one made of a square-head bolt. The round-head makes the best reamer as more cutters can be filed in the surface and less work is required to file it into shape.

To Maintain a Constant Level of Liquids in Vessels

It is frequently desirable in laboratory experiments, and in practical work as well, to maintain a constant level in a tank without allowing it to become full. In many cases an outlet pipe at a certain height in the side of the tank is not desirable, and in laboratory experiments with beakers or crocks is, of course, impossible.

The diagram shows a simple but effective constant-level device. The outer end of the inverted U-tube is curved upward so that it never empties. If desired, the upward curve may be omitted and the straight end immersed in a small vessel of water. All that is necessary now for the successful working of the device is that the inner or tank end, A, of the tube be lower than the outer end--in other words, below the level of the end B--and the inner end below the level of the fluid. Of course, the U-tube must be first filled with liquid and will then act as an intermittent, never-breaking siphon. Should the tank fill above the end B, the siphon drains the fluid down to that level and no lower, even if the inner leg of the tube reach the bottom. To maintain this level against loss by evaporation some slight inflow is necessary.

It will be noted that if the inner end of the siphon were above the outer end, the siphon would break as soon as the liquid in the tank fell to the inner mouth.--Contributed by Harry N. Holmes, Richmond, Ind.

Homemade Electric Bed Warmer

The heat developed by a carbon-filament lamp is sufficiently high to allow its use as a heating element of, for instance, a bed warmer. There are a number of other small heaters which can be easily made and for which lamps form very suitable heating elements, but the bed warmer is probably the best example. All that is required is a tin covering which can be made of an old can about 3-1/2 in. in diameter. The top is cut out and the edge filed smooth. The lamp-socket end of the flexible cord is inserted in the can and the shade holder gripped over the opening. A small lamp of about five candlepower will do the heating.

A flannel bag, large enough to slip over the tin can and provided with a neck that can be drawn together by means of a cord, gives the heater a more finished appearance, as well as making it more pleasant to the touch.

A Flash-Light Telegraph on a Kite Line

An ordinary pocket flash lamp is prepared in the following manner: A brass spring, as shown in the sketch, is bound tightly to the flash lamp with a cord, and two wires, one at each end, are twisted around the lamp's body, forming two loops at the top. The kite string is run through the loops and over the spring. The lamp is then placed near the kite. The ordinary pull on the kite string does not close the spring, but a sharp jerk will pull the string in contact with the push button and its slight pressure causes an instant flash of the light. By this method words may be spelled out in the telegraph code.--Contributed by Joe V. Romig, Allentown, Pa.

Hangers for Barn Tools

Means should be provided to have a place for all the tools used in and about a barn. The forks and shovels are usually stood up in a corner, but they can be more conveniently taken care of by making a hanger for them. The illustration shows how a hanger can be easily made and screwed to the wall of a barn. The hanger is cut from a piece of board and has a hole bored into it the size of the handle on the fork or shovel, then a notch is sawn into the hole to pass the handle through. The board may contain one or as many notches as there are forks and shovels to be hung on it. The implements are hung with the fork or shovel end upward.--Contributed by R. Snyder, Glidden, Ia.

Guide Ropes on a Bobsled

The sketch shows the front end of a bobsled or double runner made of a plank bolted upon two sleds. The front sled is so pivoted on the bolt A that it may be turned to steer the bob, and to accomplish this result the steersman ordinarily sits with his feet braced against the projecting ends of the crosspiece and passes the steering ropes outside of his feet, with the ropes crossed as shown. The crossing of the ropes is supposed to add leverage, but that is quite wrong.

The rope, running from B to C, has a lever arm from A to E. If the ropes were not crossed, the rope would lie along the dotted line BD, whose lever arm is the distance AF, which is always greater than AE, therefore the uncrossed ropes have more leverage.

Observe what takes place when the sled is steered to the left: The distance AE decreases much more rapidly than AF, and when the crossed ropes have lost all their power, the uncrossed ropes are still useful. Many a spill has been caused by turning the sled to a position from which the crossed ropes were unable to restore it to a central position, and most of such spills would have been avoided if the ropes had not been crossed.--Contributed by R. R. Raymond, Wilmington, Del.

Brush Hanger for a Dark Room

Necessity may be the mother of invention, but it is also the grandmother of application, and application is the practical side of invention. Both the amateur and the professional photographer have been bothered by spotting and unequal development of negatives and prints in tray development, due to various causes, and sometimes by the presence of dirt particles or the unequal or incomplete flowing of the developer over the surface of the sensitive emulsion.

Most professionals and many amateurs are familiar with the use of the camel's-hair brush to avoid failures of this character, and many of them use a brush for local development in certain cases where it is necessary or desirable. Usually the brush is kept in a small glass cup, somewhere close at hand, but it is often in the way when not wanted and misplaced when most needed. The brush can be kept within reach and handy for the operator by arranging a light counterweight and pulley with a string attached to the brush, so that, normally, the brush will hang from the ceiling directly over the developing tray and can be obtained for use when desired.

The detail of this brush-string and counterweight combination was deliberately appropriated from the old plan of suspending the piece of chalk over a billiard table, so that the players could easily reach it, when needed, while, when released, it would be pulled out of the way by the counterweight. The developing brush thus suspended is always ready, never misplaced, nor in the way for other operations. This arrangement is particularly convenient where a bathroom is used as a dark room, and the shelf space is limited.

This same manner of counterweighting chalk on the billiard table may be applied to a stove-lid lifter, to keep it within easy reach and always cool enough to handle. The simplest and most inexpensive way of making this apparatus is to cut off a small piece of lead pipe for a counterweight, and, in the absence of a suitable pulley, use an ordinary screweye fastened in the ceiling. The latter is really better than a pulley because the string cannot run off the screweye. The arrangement is better understood by referring to the sketch.

Lighting a Basement Light

There was no switch at the basement door and it was difficult to find the droplight in the dark. Instead of going to the expense of placing a switch, the contrivance illustrated and described was rigged up and proved equal to the requirements.