Chapter XVI: Part IV: Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait (9)

2 Sides, 1/2 in. by 9-1/2 in. by 5 ft., S-2-S.
4 Crosspieces, 1/2 in. by 3 in. by 1 ft. 7 in., S-2-S.
4 Guides, 3/4 in. by 1-1/4 in. by 2 ft. 6 in., S-2-S.
2 Bottom Pieces, 1 in. by 9 in. by 2 ft. 6 in., S-2-S.
1 Easel, 3/4 in. by 1 ft. 6 in. by 2 ft., S-2-S.
2 Cleats, 1/2 in. by 1-1/2 in. by 1 ft. 4 in., S-2-S.

Straight-grained soft pine or poplar is the best material to use. The side pieces should be narrowed at one end or to a point about halfway of their length. The extent of this narrowing will depend somewhat on circumstances. The guide pieces are then attached with screws, the two upper pieces so that they have their upper edges flush with the edges of the side boards.

The bottom piece, on which the camera is to be set, is made of the two pieces, cut as shown in Fig. 2, and joined with cleats, as in Fig. 3. The space left after part of one side of each board has been cut away, should be sufficient to make a slot which, when the boards are joined together, will admit the screw to hold the camera in place. A rod is run through holes bored in the sides, just below the two pairs of guides, and fitted with a wing nut for clamping the sliding bottom when a focus and the size of the picture is found.

In copying, the camera is attached to the bottom board and the picture is tacked to the easel. The camera is then focused roughly by means of the rack and pinion, the final, fine focusing being done by moving the sliding bottom board. For enlarging, the lantern is placed on the sliding bottom and the bromide paper tacked to the easel.

For lantern-slide work, which is reducing, it is necessary to cut an aperture in the easel, after the manner shown in Fig. 4. The edges of the opening have a rabbet to receive first a ground glass and then the negative, both being held in place with turn buttons. It is not necessary to have two easels, as this opening can be fitted with a piece to make a level surface when the apparatus is used for copying or enlarging.

To Make Whitewash Stick to Surfaces Coated

In using whitewash much difficulty is experienced in making it stick to the substance covered. A good way to prevent the coating from cracking and peeling off is to add 2 oz. of pure sodium chloride to every 1 gal. of whitewash mixture. This is not expensive, but should be secured at a drug store because some salts of sodium are not pure and will darken the whitewash. The sodium chloride should be added after the whitewash solution is made up. When this mixture is used in buildings it will destroy all vermin which it touches.

A Mechanical Camera

The young person who likes to draw will find the device illustrated of great assistance for outlining a portrait or a bit of scenery which can be filled in to make the picture. The camera consists of a box without a cover, about 12 in. long, 6 in. wide and 4 in. deep. An oblong hole is cut in one end, a small hole bored in the other, and a piece cut out of the lower edge so that one eye can be placed close to the hole. The oblong hole, shown by the dotted lines, is covered with a fine perforated cardboard, the kind used for working in mottoes with yarn. Supports are nailed in the corners of the box, their length being calculated to allow the operator to sit or stand, as desired.

The camera is used in the manner illustrated. If a portrait is to be drawn, then the one sitting for it must be quiet until the outlines are completed. The operator, looking through the hole, traces the lines on the cardboard between the perforations. When the outlines are drawn in this manner, the cardboard is removed and placed on the paper or cardboard used for the picture. The outline is then transferred by marking with a sharp-pointed pencil through the perforations on the outlines as drawn. After separating the two pieces, the markings can be connected with a continuous line and an exact outline will be obtained which can be filled in as desired. The outline picture is a sample of work done with the camera.--Contributed by Florence Thomas, Gordon, Ont.

Gauge Attachment for a Pocket Rule

The base of the gauge A is cut from a block of hard wood, about 2-1/2 in. long, 1 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick. A notch is cut in one side to admit the rule and the wedge B, which has a slot that slides on a pin in the base. A small metal clip keeps the wedge in place. The gauge can be readily set on the rule at any mark.

Plate Hangers

In hanging old china plates for decorative purposes use three large white dress hooks, placed at equal distances apart on the edge of the plate. The hanging wire or cord is run through them from the back side and drawn up tightly. These hooks are much better than the ordinary plate hanger, as they are small and will not show much on the plate.

An Electrically Operated Camera Shutter

It is often quite desirable to operate the shutter of a camera from a distance, especially in photographing birds and animals. The device shown in the accompanying sketch serves the above purpose very nicely, and its construction and operation are exceedingly simple. In brief, the operation is as follows: The switch A is mounted on the limb of a tree, in such a manner that it is not conspicuous, and connected in series with a magnet, B, and a battery by means of a piece of flexible conductor, such as lamp cord. The magnet B is energized when the switch is closed and attracts the iron armature C, which is mounted on an arm, pivoted at D. The lower end of this arm is in the form of a latch, which supports the rod E when it is raised to its upper position. The rod E when it is raised compresses the coiled spring F, which is held between the gauge G and the washer H mounted on the rod. A small coil spring holds the armature C away from the core of the magnet B. The lower end of the rod E is in the form of a piston operating in a wooden cylinder J. The rubber bulb at the end of the tube leading to the camera shutter is located in the lower end of the cylinder J. When the rod E is released by the latch K, it moves downward in the cylinder J, due to the action of the spring F, and compresses the bulb L, causing the shutter of the camera to be operated. A small handle, M, may be mounted on the rod to be used in raising it to the upper position. The component parts of this device may be mounted on a small wooden base by means of brass straps, and the terminals of the electric circuit connected to the binding posts N and O, as shown. The switch A may be dispensed with and a push button used in its place, as the operator may station himself several hundred feet away. It may be necessary to use a battery of more than one cell in such cases.

Electroplating without a Tank

Electroplating without a plating tank is made possible with the following easily homemade apparatus described in a German scientific magazine. It consists of a rubber ball, A, fitted at one end with a glass tube, B, which carries at the opposite end a small sponge. A rod, D, passes through the rubber ball, which is tightly corked at both ends, into the glass tube B and carries at that end the anode E. A small glass tube, F, also connects the rubber ball with the larger tube B. The connections from the battery to the cathode, G, the object to be plated, and to the projecting end of the anode-carrying rod, D, are made as shown. The rubber ball is filled with the electrolyte, and is squeezed so as to force the fluid through the small tube F, into the larger tube, B, filling it and soaking the sponge C. The current is then turned on, and by moving the wet sponge over the cathode G, the latter will be plated. Not only is this an interesting accessory for the amateur's laboratory, but it can be used in the industry where only parts of some object are to be plated, and where it is desired to remedy bad spots without putting the articles back into the bath.

A Milk-Bottle Tray

Bottled milk is difficult to deliver without knocking the bottles together when carrying them or while in a wagon. There are several kinds of wire baskets for carrying the bottles, but they all have the disadvantage of allowing the bottles to strike one another. A carrier not having this fault can be made very cheaply as follows: Procure a board 1 in. thick, 8 in. wide and 2 ft. long, plane and make it smooth, and use ordinary tin fruit or vegetable cans for the bottle holders. Cut each can off 2-1/2 in. from the bottom and smooth off the jagged edges with a file. Nail these in two rows on the board, starting 1 in. from each end. Attach a segment of a barrel hoop for a handle. The carrier can be painted as desired.--Contributed by G. H. Clemmons, Storm Lake, Iowa.

A Springboard

Select straight-grained hickory or ash for the springboards. These can be of any width to make up the board to 18 in. wide. The frame part may be of any material of the dimensions given in the sketch. The butt ends of the springboard should be well fastened to the crosspiece with screws, or, better still, small carriage bolts with the nuts on the under side.

The crosspiece at the rear is cut on the angle of the springboard. The front crosspiece is mortised into the frame, and the one near the center is laid on top of the two side rails. The rear crosspiece is either fastened with large dowels or mortised into the sidepieces. This springboard will be of use in connection with a back-yard gymnasium for vaulting and doing turning acts.

Planing Rough-Grain Boards

The surface of a board having a grain that runs both ways is very hard to smooth with a plane. By sharpening the plane iron to a keen edge, then placing it in the plane with the cap reversed and set about 1/32 in. from the cutting edge, I find that with a light cut the plane will smooth regardless of the direction of the grain.--Contributed by William Rollins, Wichita, Kansas.

Braces for Aeroplane Frames

In making model aeroplanes or gliders the brace shown will serve the purpose admirably. The size and strength of the metal used will depend on where it is to be used. The metal is bent into the shape shown with the use of a vise. The manner of attaching the braces is clearly shown.--Contributed by Francis Chetlain, Chicago.

A Puzzle Purse

The puzzle purse is made of four pieces of chamois, two of the pieces being merely flaps, one on each side at the upper edge. One of the pieces forming one side of the purse extends upward for about twice the height of the purse part. The part above the purse has a number of slits cut in it to make the width of each strip 1/8 in. These slits should be accurately cut in order that the purse may be opened easily. The other half is only the size of the purse proper. The upper edge of the latter piece and the flap on that side are stitched together to the flap on the opposite side, the threads of the stitches running between the strips of the long piece. These stitches are made on the line AB and around the edge.

To open the purse, take hold of each side on the purse part and draw the pieces apart. In doing so, the strips are drawn through the stitches so that they may be separated and a coin taken from the purse. A pull on each end will close the purse.--Contributed by Chas. Motton, Toronto, Ont.

An Emergency Sandpapering Machine

While doing some work I had several small pieces to be finished with sandpaper. They were so small and of such a shape that it was impossible to do the work by hand. Not having a sanding machine, I used a disk talking machine for the purpose. I placed a sheet of sandpaper over the disk and fastened it to the felt at the corners with pins. The machine was then set going at its highest rate of speed, and the articles were smoothed by holding them on the disk.--Contributed by Fred S. Barnard, Los Angeles, Cal.

A Developing Machine

The base of the developing machine consists of a wood tray with sloping ends and high sides, which is placed at the center and provides bearings for the wheel axle. The dimensions given in the sketch are for making a machine to develop a film about 29 in. long. The disk, or wheel, is cut from a board, 7/8 in. thick, and the attached crosspieces are cut from 1/4 in. dowels to make them 2-1/2 in. long. These are placed about 1 in. apart on the circumference of the disk.

An axle, fastened solidly in the wheel and adjusted in the bearings, is kept from slipping sideways by bushings made of a spool. A crank is attached to one end of the axle. Hot paraffin is applied to the inside of the tank part, to make it liquid-tight. Two pins or hooks are attached to one of the crosspieces to catch into the film end. If the wheel is the correct size, the same pins can be used for fastening the other end of the film.

The film is first attached to the wheel; then, while turning slowly, the developer is poured into the tray. Keep on turning the wheel until full development is obtained, then pour out the liquid and turn in fresh, clear water, and turn the wheel to wash out the developer. Remove the film and place it in the hypo bath.--Contributed by Raymond M. Bealer, Baltimore, Md.

A Stove-Wood Carrier

A handy wood carrier, for bringing wood and kindling from the basement or yard to the wood box in the house, may be made from a grain sack, as shown in the sketch. Use a complete sack and make rope handles at each end. When used, place only sufficient wood or kindling in it to permit the handles to come together over the top of the load. This will make a comfortable grip and it is no harder to carry than a medium-weight suitcase. When the wood is removed the carrier can be taken to the back yard and shaken out, thus doing away with the dirt that usually results from other methods of filling wood boxes.--Contributed by Walter Nelson Kidston, Seattle, Wash.

A Pencil Sharpener

A pencil sharpened with the device shown will have a better point and one that will not break easily while being sharpened. The lower arm A is made from a strip of sheet steel, 1/16 in. thick. An extension, 1/4 in. wide, is cut and bent in a circle to form the lower finger hold. The upper arm B forms the cutter, which is made from a piece of hacksaw blade. The teeth are ground off and the temper is drawn from the extension that forms the upper circle. A portion of the arm A is bent over, as shown at C, to form a support for the pencil point to rest upon. A hole, large enough for a pencil to turn in, is bored through a stick of hardwood, D, and tapered so that the center of the hole meets the inner edge of C. It is fastened to the lower arm with screws. A sharp cutting edge is ground on the blade which is then attached to the arm A with a rivet loosely enough to swing freely.--Contributed by J. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.

Cleaning an Oilstone

Use kerosene oil and a sprinkling of emery flour and proceed to sharpen tools. It is not necessary to clean a stone thus treated before placing the tool on it, as the emery and kerosene will make a good surface on the stone as well as assisting in producing a sharp edge on the tool.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Landing for Small Boats

Not having a landing for my small boat, I made a series of sectional platforms, rising 2 ft. above the bottom, which served the purpose well and were inexpensive. Each section is about 15 ft. long, 3 ft. wide, and 2 ft. high. The frame is made of material 2 in. thick and 4 in. wide, and on top is a floor made of boards, while the bottom consists of 2 by 4-in. crosspieces, nailed on 6 in. apart. Stones are laid on these crosspieces to moor it down in place. The whole landing is simple to make and it lasts a long time, as the sections can be drawn out and stored during the winter.--Contributed by Henry Briggs, Lexington, Massachusetts.

Bearings for Model Work

For experimental work I use hangers or bearings made of sheet brass or copper, bent at right angles for strength and capped with a box. The main part of the bearing A is shaped as shown, and the box B consists of a small piece cut from a brass rod and drilled for the size of the shaft. The box is soldered to the top end of A and the base C to the bottom end. When a large metal base is used for a certain model, the part A is attached directly to that base and the part C need not be used.

The bearings can be made in different heights, each of which will demand a corresponding size and thickness of the parts. Sheet brass or copper, 1/32 in. thick, is about right for a bearing 3 in. high.--Contributed by W. E. Day, Pittsfield, Mass.

Holding the Tongue of a Shoe in Place

The tongue in a shoe will often slip down or over to one side or the other and expose the hose. To overcome this and have the tongue fit snugly in the right place, fasten a common lace clasp or hook near the top of the tongue, as shown in the illustration, so that in lacing the shoe the laces are passed under the hook to hold the tongue in place.

A Photo Vignetter

Procure a piece of heavy wire, one that is fairly stiff, says Camera Craft, and a pair of pliers and bend the wire with the pliers as shown in the illustration. After the loop is made to fit around the lens barrel the wire is bent at right angles at a point 6 in. below the circle. At a distance of 8 in. on the extending part of the wire it is bent as shown to form a clip for holding a sheet of cardboard.

The cardboard should be about 7 in. wide and of dark color, with one edge cut semicircular and notched. The size of the wire and the other measurements will depend upon the size and focal length of the lens. If a heavy vignetting card is required, it may be necessary to make the portion that encircles the lens double in length, bending it back upon itself to secure a firmer hold. This is a cheap and efficient vignetter that anyone can make in a few moments of spare time.

Pocket for the Inside of a Book Cover

Students or anyone wishing to retain notes on a subject will find it quite handy to have a large envelope pasted in the back of each textbook. Instead of having notes all through the book, they can be arranged in order and slipped into the envelope. If the book is accidentally dropped, the notes will not be lost.--Contributed by Harold Mynning, Chicago, Ill.

Cleaning Steel of Grease and Stains

Grease and stains can be easily removed from steel with a mixture of unslaked lime and chalk powder, by rubbing it on the steel with a dry cloth. The best proportion for the mixture, which is easily prepared, is 1 part of lime to 1 part of chalk powder. The powder should be used dry. It is kept in cans for future use and can be used over and over again.--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.

An Electrically Ignited Flash Light for Making Photographs

The results obtained in a great many cases in trying to take pictures by flash-light are exceedingly unsatisfactory, as the expression on the faces of the people in the picture usually is strained or unnatural, due to the suspense in waiting for the flash. The following simple device avoids this difficulty because the flash is set off by means of electricity, so that the operator can control the flash from a distant point and thus be able to take the picture quite unawares to his subjects.

The construction of the device is as follows: Obtain a piece of rather heavy sheet iron, about 6 in. wide and 10 in. long. Bend this piece of iron into the form shown in the sketch, and fasten a wooden handle to it with a wood screw. Obtain a sheet of 1/8-in. sheet asbestos, the same size as the piece of sheet iron, and glue it to the inside surface of the curved piece of iron. It is best to fasten the four corners down by means of some small rivets with rather large washers under the heads next to the asbestos.

Now mount two pieces of sheet copper, 1/2 in. wide and 6 in. long, parallel with each other on the surface of the asbestos and 1-1/2 in. apart, so that their ends are even with the end of the piece of asbestos. These pieces of copper should be insulated from the piece of sheet iron, and there should be a small screw in one end of each and a small binding post mounted on the other end.

Procure a piece of lamp cord, 15 or 20 ft. in length. Fasten an ordinary plug to one end of this cord and the other end to the two binding posts. Open one of the conductors in the cord at some point and introduce a single-pole switch, as shown in the sketch. Close the gap between the two pieces of copper by means of a piece of No. 32 gauge copper wire. Place the flash-light powder in position, but do not cover up the wire or have it in actual contact with the powder, and close the circuit. The operator may include himself in the picture by having a sufficiently long piece of lamp cord and the switch properly arranged.

A Simple Twine-Ball Holder

In looking for a place to put a twine ball I happened to see a tin funnel and it gave me the idea which I put into practice. I punched three holes at equal distances apart in its upper edge and attached three strings which were run to an apex and tied to a screweye in the ceiling. The end of the twine from the center of the ball was run through the funnel stem and allowed to hang as in an ordinary ball holder.--Contributed by W. C. Loy, Rochester, Ind.

* * * * *

A filler for birch, red gum and beech can be made of
1 lb. of bleached shellac to each gallon of water.

A Toy Popgun

A toy popgun can be easily made of two blocks of hard wood, 1/2 in. thick; a joint of bamboo, about 7/8 in. in diameter and 6 in. long; a small hinge, a piece of spring steel, 1/2 in. wide and 1 in. long, and a piece of soft wood for the plunger.

The plunger A is cut to fit snugly, yet so it will move easily in the piece of bamboo B. One of the blocks of hard wood, C, is bored to fit one end of the bamboo, the other block has a 1/4-in. hole bored, to center the hole in the first block. The two blocks are hinged and the spring latch attached as shown in the sketch. The spring has a hole drilled so it can be fastened with a screw to the outer block, and a slot cut in the other end to slip over a staple driven into the block C.

A piece of paper, D, is placed in between the blocks while the plunger A is out at the end of the bamboo. A quick pressure on the plunger A will cause the paper D to break out through the small opening with a loud pop.--Contributed by Paul H. Burkhart, Blue Island, Ill.

A Non-Rolling Thread Spool

A spool of thread may be kept from rolling by gluing squares of cardboard to the ends. The squares should be a little larger than the spool. This will save many a step and much bending over to pick up the spool. The spool, when it falls, will stop where it landed.--Contributed by Katharine D. Morse, Syracuse, N. Y.

Shoe-Shining Stand

To anyone who finds it tiresome to shine his shoes while putting the foot on the rim of a bathtub, on a cook-stove or chair with a newspaper on it, the stand here described will afford relief and at the same time he will always have the shining outfit ready for use.

The whole is of pine, the foot rest being made of a piece 2 by 4 in.; the legs, of 1 by 2 in., and the bottom of the box, of 1/2 by 4-1/4 in. All other dimensions are given in the sketch. After the legs are attached and the bottom of the box in place, the sides are fitted and fastened with nails.--Contributed by Samuel Hughs, Berkeley, Cal.

Cutter Made of a Wafer Razor Blade

A useful instrument for seamstresses and makers of paper patterns and stencils can be made of a piece of steel or iron and a wafer razor blade. The end of the metal is flattened and two holes drilled to match the holes of the razor blade. Small screw bolts are used to attach the blade to the handle. Place a cork on one edge as a protection for the hand of the user.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

To Hold a Negative in a Printing Frame

When printing postal cards and working fast, it always bothered me to hold the negative in the printing frame while removing the card. To overcome this trouble I decided to contrive some arrangement to hold the negative in the frame when the back was removed. The device I made consists of a thin, flat spring, about 1/8 in. wide and as long as the width of the frame opening. Two lugs are formed and soldered to the ends, as shown in Fig. 1, for holding the plate, and a central lug is soldered on to provide a means of fastening the spring in position. A groove, about 1/16 in. deep, was cut in the opposite end of the frame to receive one end of the negative.

In use, slide the plate into the frame and into the lugs on the spring, and push the spring upward until the plate can be slipped into the slot at the opposite end of the frame. The pressure of the spring, as shown in Fig. 2, will hold the plate securely. The frame can be handled quite roughly and as fast as desired without any danger of the plate falling out.--Contributed by Thos. L. Parker, Wibaux, Montana.

* * * * *

A number of bright tin disks tied to the limbs of a
fruit tree will prove an efficient means of driving
away infesting birds.

How to Make an Electrolytic Interrupter

Obtain a glass jar or wide-mouth bottle about one-quart size. An ordinary round bottle will serve very nicely by having the top cut off, thus forming a glass jar. Make a top for the jar from a piece of 1/2-in. pine similar to the one shown in the illustration. The lower portion extends down inside the jar and serves to hold the top in place. Cut a slot in this top, 1/8 in. wide and 2 in. long. This slot should be cut at right angles to a diameter of the top and extend 1 in. on either side of the diameter. It should be about 1/2 in. from the center of the top. Directly opposite the center of the slot drill a 3/8-in hole, 1/2 in. from the center of the top. Drill a 1/4-in. hole in the center of the top to give ventilation to the jar. Boil the completed top in paraffin for a few minutes.

Obtain a piece of 1/8-in. sheet lead, 2 in. wide and about 1/2 in. longer than the depth of the jar. Mount a small binding post on one end of this piece of lead and then support it in the slot in the wooden top by means of two metal pins. The lower end of the piece of lead should be at least 1/2 in. from the bottom of the jar. Next get a piece of 3/8-in. glass tube and fuse a piece of platinum wire into one end. Make sure the inside end of the platinum wire is not covered with the glass, and that the outside end protrudes a short distance beyond the end of the glass tube. Now bend about 3/4 in. of the end of the glass tube which has the platinum in it over at right angles to the remainder of the tube. The tube should then be placed in the opening on the wooden top provided for it and a rubber band placed around it to prevent it dropping through the opening. The lower end of the tube should be a little higher than the lower end of the sheet of lead. A small quantity of mercury should be placed in the tube and a bare copper wire run down inside. The mercury affords a connection between the piece of platinum in the end of the tube and the copper wire. Connect the outside end of the copper wire under a binding post and the interrupter is complete with the exception of the solution.

The solution for the interrupter is dilute sulphuric acid made by mixing about four parts of water and one part of acid. In preparing this mixture, be sure to pour the acid into the water, not the water into the acid. The jar should be about two-thirds filled. At least 40 volts will be required for the satisfactory operation of the interrupter. The distance between the platinum point and the lead sheet may be adjusted by simply turning the glass tube.

No condenser will be required in operating an inductor coil with an interrupter of this kind. The make-and-break interrupter, if there is one in circuit, should of course be made inoperative by screwing up the contact point against the spring.

A Homemade Hand Drill Press

The little use I had for a drill press did not make it advisable to purchase one, so I constructed a device for drilling iron and brass which answered all purposes. A broken carpenter's brace furnished the chuck, which was fastened to a 1/2-in. shaft having a detachable crank. The shaft turns in a brass tube which is fitted tightly in a hole bored in the upright. The sliding part or table is forced up against the drill with a 1/2-in. machine bolt. The bolt turns in a square nut fastened in the opposite post. The end of the screw bears on a plate fastened on the under side of the table to prevent wear. A crank could be attached to this bolt so that it may be turned more easily.

The sliding or table part is made of a post similar to the end posts, but with guides attached so as to keep it in place. The holes for the chuck shaft and bolt should be bored on a line and exactly in the center of the posts.--Contributed by L. R. Kelley, Philadelphia, Pa.

A Hose Nozzle

The nozzle shown in the accompanying sketch was made from an empty tobacco can having an oval shape. I cut the can in two near the center and punched small holes in the bottom. I then cut a piece of 1/2-in. board to fit tightly in the end of the can and turned the edges of the tin down to hold it in place. A hole was bored in the center of the wood and a 1/2-in. hose coupling fitted in it. The water will swell the wood enough to make an absolutely watertight joint, but by using a little care in fitting it, the joint will be watertight without the swelling.

The holes being punched in straight lines, the nozzle throws a rectangular section of fine streams, which makes it possible to sprinkle close up to walks without wetting them. The friction is much less than in the ordinary hose nozzle, and consequently this nozzle delivers more water and also materially reduces the strain on the hose.--Contributed by J. B. Downer, Seattle, Washington.

An Electric Water Heater

A simple electric water heater may be made as follows: Procure two sheets of copper, each 4 by 6 in., and place pieces of wood or other insulating material at the corners to keep them about 3/4 in. apart. Bind them with cords, or, if the wood pieces are large enough, use screws so that there will be no contact between the plates. Attach wires to the plates with solder as shown, and make connections to a plug. Pour water in an earthenware jar, place the plates in it and turn the plug in a lamp socket. Do not use a metal vessel.--Contributed by G. Henry Jones, Sylacauga, Ala.

Frosting Glass

Procure a piece of flat iron similar to an iron hoop, bend it, as shown in the sketch, to make a piece 3 in. long and 1-1/4 in. wide and file one edge smooth. Sprinkle some fine lake sand over the glass, dampen the sand and rub the smooth edge of the iron band over the glass. It requires only a short time of rubbing to produce a beautiful frosted surface on the glass.--Contributed by M. E. Duggan, Kenosha, Wis.

Long Handle for a Dustpan

The dustpan is a rather unhandy utensil to use, especially for stout persons. One porter overcame this difficulty by attaching a long handle to the pan as shown in the illustration. The handle was taken from a discarded broom and a yoke of heavy wire was attached to it, the ends being bent to enter holes punched in the upturned edge of the pan. A stout cord, fastened to the handle and tied into the ring of the dustpan handle, keeps the pan from turning backward, and it is thus possible to push it or carry it with the long handle.

To Fasten Chair Legs

Chair legs often become loose when chairs are handled roughly, so that the glue is broken up. A small device made from a piece of pointed metal, A, which is securely fastened to the end of the chair leg by means of a screw, will hold the legs more firmly than wire or glue. When the leg is driven into the hole, the points are pushed into the wood B as the metal flattens.

Disk-Throwing Pistol

A pistol for throwing small disks of paper or metal balls, can be easily made at almost no expense as shown in the sketch. Two pieces of board, one of which is shaped to the form of a pistol, are hinged together and a fairly strong spiral spring is fastened at the front end of the movable piece and the middle of the other. A slot is sawed in the movable piece to hold the disk, or a small round depression may be formed in it to receive a bean, pea, or shot. The movable arm is folded back and held in position by means of a stirrup of wire fastened on the other part. When the movable part is disengaged by pulling the stirrup away with the finger, the disk will be thrown with considerable force, depending on the strength of the spring.

Displaying Dye Colors

A certain druggist utilized old electric bulbs for displaying dye colors. Water was colored with a dye and the end of a bulb dipped into the liquid. Then the tip end was broken off, and the bulb being a vacuum, the colored water was drawn into it, and filled the globe. The point was then sealed with paraffin.

A ring-shaped piece, 15 in. in diameter and 2-1/2 in. wide, was cut from a piece of board, and 1-in. holes bored, 2-1/2 in. apart, in one-half of the ring, The globes holding the colored water were set in these holes and a light with a round shade placed in the center. It proved to be an attractive display and a good method of showing the colors.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

A Homemade Bench Vise

A serviceable and inexpensive bench vise can be made in the following manner: Procure a piece of hard wood, 1 in. thick, and shape it into an eccentric with an extending handle, as shown at A. The jaws B are made of material 2 in. thick, and the drawbar C is a 2 by 3-in. piece of hickory. The outer end of the bar is slotted to receive the eccentric handle, through which a bolt, D, passes to form a bearing. Holes are bored into the opposite end of the bar, 2 in. apart, into which a peg is inserted to come against the back side of the rear jaw. This provides an adjustment for a range of various thicknesses of material. Another bar is located at the bottom of the jaws to provide a means of keeping the jaws parallel. This bar is made in a similar manner to the bar C. The rear jaw can be fastened to the side of a bench, post, or any support that may be handy.--Contributed by Wm. S. Thompson, Columbia, Tenn.

Timing Photo Printing

Having hundreds of postals of a single subject to print, I made a perfect timing apparatus for exposing the prints from an old metronome and an old gong magnet. A disk, B, 20 in. in diameter, was made of heavy tin with two apertures, C C, each cut 7 in. in diameter, on a line with the center of the disk, and 2 in. from the edge. A large spool, F, was used to serve as a hub and also as a reel on which strong twine was wound, with a weight, E, attached to the free end.

The disk was bolted to the partition P of the darkroom, the partition having a hole, G, to coincide with the holes in the disk as it revolved. Four catch pins were fastened on the rim of the disk to engage a catch pin on the armature of the magnet. The gong and commutator were removed and the magnet placed in the position shown in the sketch. A strip of wood was fastened across the face of the metronome H, about 1 in. above the pendulum shaft or axle. On the inside of the center of the strip a small piece of wood was projected, with copper wire on one side only, to form a contact with a piece of flexible copper on the pendulum. Wiring was made as shown in the sketch and a switch used to stop the disk from revolving.

An ordinary postal-card printing frame, D, with a hinged back was used and placed on the shelf A, as shown. A hinge was made from heavy elastic bands to allow for two dozen cards in the frame at one time. As each card was printed it was taken out and dropped into the developer. The reel and metronome should be wound up after printing two dozen cards. The stops can be varied for any length of time by regulating the weight on the metronome. The disk and all woodwork must be painted a dull black. The circuit is completed on the return stroke of the pendulum, causing the magnet to attract the armature, which releases the catch, allowing a quarter turn of the disk.--Contributed by Frank W. Preston, Paterson, N. J.

Pail Hook for a Pitcher Pump

When pumping water from the ordinary pitcher pump, the bucket must either be held to the spout or placed on the ground. The accompanying sketch shows how I arranged a hook, fastened over the collar of the pump, to take the bail of the bucket. The hook is made of 1/4-in. round iron.--Contributed by Laurence B. Robbins, Harwich, Mass.

Shade Roller Attached to Upper Window Sash

Free circulation of air cannot be obtained through a window when the shade is attached to the window casing, as it partly fills the opening caused by lowering the upper sash. If the shade roller is attached to the top of the upper sash, the shade can perform its function without obstructing the opening when the sash is lowered. It only requires a shorter roller and a narrower shade. The roller brackets are attached in the usual manner, but, in order to have the shade hang vertically, a block, as wide as the lower sash frame, must be fastened under each bracket.

This arrangement also makes it much easier to put up a curtain, as the sash can be let down until the roller can be reached while standing on a chair.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Flashing Hook

Having occasion to do a large amount of counter-flashing in a new wall where the mortar was soft and the joint too large to use an ordinary nail or the regular flashing hook, I made hooks from No. 24 gauge galvanized iron, having hooks of extra size and strength, as shown in the sketch. The size of the hook is 1-3/4 by 3-1/8 in. On each side edge, 1-1/8 in. from one end, I cut teeth, A A, and clipped the corners of the opposite end at an angle. The end at B was turned down at right angles and the points A A bent in the opposite direction. I placed the counter-flashing in the usual manner, with the projection B hanging down and the pointed end of the hook in the joint, and drove or pushed it in tightly. The points A A will catch on the under side of the brick and hold solidly.--Contributed by Ralph M. Chatham, Orleans, Indiana.

A Homemade Dibble

A dibble made of a round and sharp-pointed stick is the usual tool for making holes when setting tomato and other plants. I found by experience that a dibble made of a flat board would work much better and leave a cleaner hole if worked into the earth with a horizontal swinging motion. The hole produced is just right for the plant. The illustration shows its construction.

Liquid Court-Plaster

A good liquid preparation for cuts and bruises that forms a covering like liquid court-plaster is made by mixing 3/4 oz. of flexible collodion with 1/4 oz. of ether. When this solution is applied to cuts it will not wash off. As the ether evaporates, add more to keep the mixture liquid.

A Substitute for Candles

One evening our electric light was cut off by a storm, and having no gas, candles, or oil lamps, a very good light was made in the following manner: A tablespoonful of lard was melted and poured in the top of a baking-powder can, and four strands of ordinary white wrapping twine were put into it, allowing one end to stand up for about 1/2 in. above the edge of the can. The end was lighted the same as a candle.--Contributed by B. E. Cole, Eureka, California.

A Poultry Coop

A barrel makes a good protection for a hen with a brood of chicks, if it is arranged as shown in the sketch. Procure a good barrel with a bottom and cut off each alternate stave at both ends close up to the first hoop. The lower openings thus formed make entrances for the chickens and the upper ones admit air and light.--Contributed by Wm. R. Konnan, Neillsville, Wis.

Preventing Mildew on Canvas

To prevent mildew on canvas, soak it in bluestone water, or if the mildew is already present, coat the parts well with ordinary soap and rub on powdered chalk, or whiting. A solution of corrosive sublimate, well weakened with water, will also prevent mildew, but owing to its poisonous nature it is best to use the former method.--Contributed by A. Ashmund Kelly, Malvern, Pa.

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When the steel point of a compass is lost, a
phonograph needle makes a good substitute.

Holder for Books in a Case

Very often it is found, after arranging the books in a case, that the rows are not complete and the books at the end are continually sliding down on the shelf. The sketch shows a very useful type of wire bracket to support the last book.

A brass wire, 26 in. long and about 1/8 in. in diameter, is bent, with the use of a vise or pliers, to the shape and dimensions shown at A. When the wire is placed on the bookshelf, as shown at B, it prevents the end book from falling. Its location can be changed as books are added to the shelf.--Contributed by John Y. Dunlop, Craighead, Scotland.

Laying Out a Dovetail Joint

With dividers and compass lay off the width of the board into twice as many parts as the dovetails wanted. Draw a light line, AB, across the board as far from the end as half the thickness of the board. On this line step off the divisions with the dividers, beginning with a half space or division. With the bevel square, set to a bevel of 1 in. in 3, draw lines through the division dots. This method will save much time and give accurate results.--Contributed by Joseph F. Parks, Wichita, Kan.

Oiling Bright Parts of Machinery

It is my duty to go over the bright parts on the machinery in my father's shop and give them a coat of oil late in the afternoon to prevent any rust accumulating over night. As the work took considerable time from my playing I thought of a plan that not only reduced the amount of work but applied the grease much better than with a brush or rag. I procured a sprayer, as shown in the sketch, and sprayed the oil on the bright parts.--Contributed by Waller Kaufman, Santa Ana, California.

Window Ventilator to Prevent Drafts

The ventilator consists of a piece of wood, about 8 in. wide, 3 in. thick and as long as the window is wide. Holes, 1-3/4 in. in diameter, are bored at regular intervals into one edge and these are connected with openings from one side as shown. The piece is set under the lower sash with the long openings toward the outside. This will direct the incoming air currents upward into the room.

A Chisel Rack

Turn two large screweyes into the under side of a shelf, as far apart as is necessary, and slip a rod into the eyes. The rod may be kept from slipping out by threading each end and turning on a nut after it is in place. Hooks are made from heavy wire, in the shape of the letter "S," and placed on the rod. A screweye is turned into the end of each chisel handle and used for hanging the tool on an S-hook. As many hooks are provided as there are tools in use. This method of hanging tools is especially adapted for the wood turner.--Contributed by Wallace E. Fisher, New York, N. Y.

Homemade Snap Hooks

Having had occasion to use several snap hooks of various sizes and being unable to find anything suitable for my purpose on the market, I procured several cotters of the desired sizes and by bending them over, as shown at A, and cutting them off, as at B, I had snap hooks which, besides answering my original purpose, have also found use as key rings and tool-chuck holders.--Contributed by Jos. J. Kolar, Maywood, Ill.

A Dropper and Cork for Medicine Bottles

A convenient way to accurately drop medicine and liquids without any other appliance than the cork is the following: Simply burn or puncture a smooth hole in the cork as shown. Pull the cork out slightly when the liquid is to be dropped, and when this is done, push the cork in and the bottle is sealed.

Repairing a Broken Oilstone

A broken oilstone can be repaired and made as good as new in the following manner: Warm the pieces by heating them on the top of a stove or gas heater, with a piece of heavy sheet metal placed on it so as to protect the stone from the direct heat of the flame. The heating should be done somewhat slowly or the stone will crack.

When the stone is warm wipe off the oil which the heat has driven out and apply a couple of coats of shellac to the broken ends. When the shellac is thoroughly dry, warm the stone again to melt the shellac, and clamp the pieces together. After cooling, the pieces will be found firmly stuck together.--Contributed by F. L. Sylvester, Reading, Mass.

Homemade Towel Roller

The towel roller is made of a piece of broom handle, 16 in. long, squared on both ends and a nail driven in the center of each end. Procure two small pieces of tin--disks about 1 in. in diameter will do--and drive a hole through the center of each with a wire nail. Cut from one edge of the disk down to the hole taking out a narrow V-shaped section.

Fasten each disk to a block and nail these to any convenient wall at such a distance apart that the nail heads in the broomstick will slip down in the slots and rest in the holes in the centers of the disks, which form the bearings for the nail heads resting beyond the tin and next to the block.

With a little care the tin can be made to bulge outwardly in the center making room for the nail heads.--Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell, Augusta, Ga.

Clothesline Reel

The usual method of reeling up a clothesline and taking it in is quite a task and many times the lines are left out in the open from one wash day to another, due to neglect or forgetfulness. I made the arrangement shown in the sketch to take care of the line without any effort to the user.

All that is necessary with this arrangement is to take the end of the line and run it over the hooks or sheaves on the posts and make it secure around an awning fastener. When loosed, the weight in the basement will wind up the line.

A knot can be tied in the line near the reel to catch at a hole in the sill, which will prevent the strain on the reel. If the reel is made to wind up 4 ft. of line to each revolution and the sash-cord shaft is 3/4 in. in diameter, about 100 ft. of line can be taken up in a basement 7 ft. high.--Contributed by A. E. Little, Akron, O.

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Black-heart malleable iron derives its name from the
fact that in annealing only the outer layers of carbon
are oxidized, the carbon of the interior being simply
changed to a black amorphous state.

A Candle-Shade Holder

A holder for either round or square shades can be easily constructed from a piece of heavy copper wire to fit on a candlestick. One end of the wire is looped around the upper end of the candlestick, then bent so that the main part will be vertical. The top end is shaped into a circle 2 in. in diameter or a square having sides 2 in. long, as desired.--Contributed by Harry Slosower, Pittsburgh, Pa.

Wire Mesh Used as a Shelf

In covering a window back of my lathe with wire mesh as a protection I also made a shelf for the tools between the window sill and the lathe bed of the same material. The mesh used was 1/4-in. The shelf is always clean, as the shavings and dirt fall through, and the tools may be readily picked up.--Contributed by J. H. Sanford, Pasadena, California.

Heel Plates

A good heel or toe plate can be made by driving ordinary thumb tacks into the leather of the shoe heel or sole. The shape can be varied by using tacks having different-sized heads.--Contributed by James T. Gaffney, Chicago, Ill.