Chapter II: Book 2: 1000 Things for Boys to Do (2)

A boy who likes to do the things that "grown ups" do can derive considerable pleasure from the making of a transit, which will enable him to start in surveying railroads, laying off town sites, and doing lots of kindred work. It is necessary to have a compass, and one, 1-3/4 in. in diameter, can be purchased at a reasonable price. A hole is bored with an expansive bit into a board, 7/8 in. in thickness, just deep enough to admit the compass snugly, then a circle, A, 4-1/2 in. in diameter, is drawn, having the same center as the compass hole, and the disk is cut out with a compass or scroll saw. A ring, B, is cut in the same manner from the same material, its inside diameter being such that the ring just fits around the disk A, and the outside diameter, 6-3/4 in. Another block, 5-1/2 in. in diameter, is glued to the bottom of the small disk A. This will appear as shown at C. A small hole is bored in the center of the bottom block on the under side to receive the threaded end of the screw on a camera tripod. By careful adjustment the threads in the wood will hold the transit firmly. A plumb bob must be attached exactly in the center of the tripod head. This can be easily done if the head is wood, but in case the top is of metal, the line can be attached to the screw with a double loop, as shown at D, so that the bob will hang centrally. Two standards are made as shown at E, each about 5 in. high, and fastened to the ring B in the positions shown in the drawing of the complete instrument. An arc of a circle is marked on one of the standards, as shown, to designate angles, the markings being laid out with a bevel protractor. The pointer is a hand from an old alarm clock.

The telescope arrangement consists of a piece of pasteboard tubing, about 1-1/4 in. in diameter, one end being covered with a piece of black paper with a pinhole in the exact center, and the other equipped with "cross hairs." Four small notches are cut in the latter end of the tube, exactly quartering it, and two silk threads as fine as can be obtained, are stretched across in these notches. The tube is fastened to a block of wood, 5 in. wide and 7 in. long, with small tacks and two pieces of fine copper wire. This block is pinioned between the standards with two nails. The hand is secured to the nail in such a position that it will point straight down when the tube is level.

The instrument is adjusted in the following manner: It is set up where a lone tree can be seen, about one mile distant, and the center of the cross hairs is carefully set on the tree. Then a very fine wire is stretched across the compass, as shown at F, and while keeping it directly over the center of the compass it is also placed on a direct line pointing to the tree. Very small brass nails, driven in at G and H, serve to fasten it in the position thus found. When this adjustment has been made the telescope can be turned to sight any object, after first placing the instrument so that the needle points to the N on the dial, and a glance at the wire will show the exact direction in which the object is located.

The instrument is then taken to a level stretch of road and set up, and a stick is placed on end and marked at the height of the telescope. The stick is taken along the road about 200 yd., the telescope sighted on it, and the hand set. This makes the instrument level enough for all practical purposes. The plumb bob is then dropped, a distance of 20 ft. measured from it on the road, and a mark made. The telescope is sighted on this mark, and a mark is made on the standard at the point of the arc, to which the hand points. Another 20 ft. is measured, or 40 ft. from the bob, and another mark made. The telescope is sighted on it, and the location of the hand again marked. This works well up to about 300 ft., then the marks begin to come very close together. This method is used for laying out town sites. The instrument is set up directly over a stake from which to work, and the telescope is turned down until the 20-ft. mark is indicated, when the operator looks through the telescope and tells his helper where to set the stake. Then another is driven at the next point, and so on, until the limit of the instrument is reached.

When doing railroad surveying several start out together, one with an ax to cut away brush; one to carry pegs; two to measure, or chain, the distance between stakes, and one to do the sighting. In this manner a line can be run that comes very near being perfectly straight for three miles.

A concrete example of how the transit was used to lay out a map of a ranch will now be given. The start was made on an east and west fence. The instrument was set 5 ft. from the fence at one point, and at the other end of the fence the stick was set at a point 5 ft. from the fence. When the stick was sighted, the wire cut the E and W on the compass, thus showing that the fence was set on a line, due east and west. The distance was measured from the fence to the house, which was 1/4 mile, and this was noted in a book. This operation was repeated on the rear, and the distance found to be 780 ft. while the compass showed the direction to be 4 deg. west of south. The next line ran 427 ft. and 1 deg. east of south. This was kept up all the way around. After these notes had been obtained, it was an easy matter to take a piece of plain paper and strike a line representing north and south and lay off the directions. A bevel protractor was used to find the degrees. The transit was set on the posts of the corrals and this saved the measuring out from the inclosure. The creek was surveyed in the same manner. So many feet south-west, so many feet west, so many feet 5 deg. south of west, and so on, until its length was run.

The transit can also be used for finding distances without measuring. A line from A to B is sighted, and F represents a point 1/2 mile distant, the line from F to G being 100 ft. A line is now sighted from A, through G to C. A person standing at D is directed to move toward the point E and he is stopped as soon as sighted in the telescope. He then measures the distance from D to E. Suppose this distance is 250 ft. As each 100 ft. means 1/2 mile, and the 50 ft., 1/4 mile, the point E is 1-1/4 miles from the transit. This method can be used quite extensively and distances obtained are fairly accurate.

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A small whisk broom makes a handy cleaner to brush
the caked grease and lint from pulleys and gear wheels
where waste and rags are useless.

To Enlarge or Reduce Plots

Sometimes it is necessary to enlarge or reduce a plot to a different scale. This can be easily and quickly accomplished without resorting to the slow process of protracting the angles and scaling the individual lines.

Take any point, P, and from it draw light pencil lines through each of the corners of the plot. On any one of these lines, as AP, lay off with dividers AC equal to CP. Place a triangle on the line AB and with a straightedge, or another triangle, laid on the line AP, slide the former to the point C, then draw line CD parallel with AB until it intersects the radial line PB. In the same manner draw line DE parallel with BF, and so on, all about the plot. A test of accuracy will be in striking the point C with the last line. If the original plot has a scale of 40 ft. to the inch the reduced plot would be 80 ft. to the inch. If it is required to enlarge the plot to 20 ft. to the inch, make AG equal to AP, and proceed as in the first case, using G as the starting point.

The location of the point P is arbitrary and may be outside of the boundary of the plot or figure to be enlarged or reduced, but should be so located, if possible, that the radial line to any corner does not parallel either of the plot lines to that corner. If the point cannot be so located for all the lines, it may be necessary to scale the lines. A little practice in picking out the best location for the point will give gratifying results.--Contributed by Junius D. McCabe, Pittsburgh, Pa.

A Lathe Bench

While working at a bench, or foot-power lathe, it is quite convenient to have some sort of a seat to sit on while at work, or between operations. In making such a seat, I used a board, 27 in. long and 12 in. wide, for the top, and two boards, 19 in. long and 12 in. wide, for the supports. These boards were 3/4 in. thick. The supports were squared at the ends and securely fastened to the top with nails, their positions being 3 in. in from the ends of the top board. These were well braced, as shown, and a cross board was placed between them, near the lower ends.

The projecting ends of the top were cut out, and a box, 5 in. deep, constructed against the supports. A covering was made to fit in each of the openings in the top board and hinged to the outer edge of the box. The boxes made a convenient place for the tools used in the turning work.--Contributed by Harold R. Harvey, Buhl, Idaho.

Cleaning and Polishing Shoes

In using the polishes now on the market for tan shoes, I found that the leather cracked in an unreasonably short time. The following was suggested and tried out with good results. Wash the shoes with castile soap and water by applying the mixture with a dauber. Work up a little lather and then rub dry with a cloth, without rinsing. The leather will be cleaned without becoming dark, and it will not crack. A higher polish may be obtained by using some paste polish in the usual manner.--Contributed by George Bliss, Washington, D. C.

Shaving Cabinet Mounted on an Adjustable Pedestal

The illustration represents a shaving cabinet mounted on an adjustable pedestal, whose style and size are such that it may easily be moved about or set away without requiring much room. The material required for its construction is as follows:

1 framed mirror, 8 by 10 in.
1 square-head bolt and wing nut, 1/2 by 4 in.
2 cabinet sides, 1/2 by 7 by 15 in.
2 partitions and shelf, 1/2 by 6 by 6 in.
1 cabinet top, 1/2 by 7 by 10-1/2 in.
1 cabinet bottom, 1/2 by 6 by 10-1/2 in.
2 cabinet backs and doors, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 10-1/2 in.
4 cabinet moldings, 1 by 4 by 4 in.
1 cabinet support, 2 by 2 by 26 in.
4 pedestal moldings, 1 by 1 by 6 in.
4 pedestal frames, 1 by 3 by 36 in.
1 base, 2 by 12 by 12 in.
Screws, nails, and varnish.

The sidepieces of the cabinet are extended at one corner, thereby forming the supports for the mirror. The door fits in between the sides and may be attached either by hinges or two wood screws, one on each side, holes being bored in the sides forming a loose fit for the screw so they can freely turn with the door. The pedestal consists of a 4-in. square box resting on the base block, and secured in place by means of molding strips. The sliding support for the cabinet consists of a 2-in. square piece secured to the bottom of the cabinet by means of molding, and provided with a slot so the support can freely slide over the clamp bolt, which fastens it in place by clamping it against the pedestal. If it is desired to conceal the head of the bolt, a recess should be made in the pedestal frame for it, as shown, so the support will freely slide over it. Before assembling the pedestal it will be necessary to drill a hole in the front side in line with the recess of the back side, and insert the bolt. If this precaution is not taken, it will not be possible to insert the bolt, unless a hole be made for the head either through the back side or front side.--Contributed by D. Toppan, Watervliet, N. Y.

Four-Passenger Coasting Bobsled By R. H. Allen

Coaster bobs usually have about the same form of construction, and only slight changes from the ordinary are made to satisfy the builder. The one shown has some distinctive features which make it a sled of luxury, and the builder will pride himself in the making. A list of the materials required is given on the opposite page. Any wood may be used for the sled, except for the runners, which should be made of ash.

Shape the runners all alike by cutting one out and using it as a pattern to make the others. After cutting them to the proper shape, a groove is formed on the under edge to admit the curve of a 5/8-in. round iron rod about 1/4 in. deep. The iron rods are then shaped to fit over the runner in the groove and extend up the back part of the runner and over the top at the front end. The extensions should be flattened so that two holes can be drilled in them for two wood screws at each end. If the builder does not have the necessary equipment for flattening these ends, a local blacksmith can do it at a nominal price. After the irons are fitted, they are fastened in place.

The top edges of the runners are notched for the crosspieces so that the top surfaces of these pieces will come flush with the upper edges of the runners. The location of these pieces is not essential, but should be near the ends of the runners, and the notches of each pair of runners should coincide. When the notches are cut, fit in the pieces snugly, and fasten them with long, slim wood screws. Small metal braces are then fastened to the runners and crosspiece on the inside, to stiffen the joint.

As the rear sled must oscillate some, means must be provided for this tilting motion while at the same time preventing sidewise turning. The construction used for this purpose is a hinged joint. The heavy 2 by 5-in. crosspiece is cut sloping on the width so that it remains 2 in. thick at one edge and tapers down to a feather edge at the opposite side. This makes a wedge-shaped piece, to which surface the three large hinges are attached. The piece is then solidly fastened to the upper edges of the runners that are to be used for the rear sled, and so located that the center of the piece will be 8 in. from the front end of the runners.

The supporting crosspiece on the front sled is fastened on top of the runners, at a place where its center will be 11 in. from the front end of the runners.

The top board is prepared by making both ends rounding and planing the surfaces smooth. On the under side, the two crosspieces are placed, which should have two 1/2-in. holes bored through the width of each, near the ends, to receive the eyebolts. They are placed, one with its center 12 in. from the end to be used for the rear, and the other with its center 8 in. from the front end, and securely fastened with screws. The shore is placed in the center of the board, and wires are run over it connecting the eyebolts. The eyebolts are then drawn up tightly to make the wire taut over the shore. This will prevent the long board from sagging.

LIST OF MATERIALS

1 top. 6-1/2 ft. long, 16 in. wide, and 1-1/4 in. thick.
4 runners. 22 in, long, 4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
4 crosspieces, 16 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
3 pieces, 16 in, long, 5 in. wide, and 2 in. thick.
1 piece, 16 in. long, 5 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
1 shore, 16 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
4 seat backs. 12 in. long, 16 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
1 dowel. 3 ft. long, and 1 in. in diameter.
4 rods. 5/8 in. in diameter, and 30 in. long.
4 eyebolts, 1/2 in. by 6 in. long.
3 hinges, 5-in. strap.
8 hinges, 3-in. strap.

On the upper side of the board and beginning at the rear end, the backs are fastened at intervals of 18 in. They are first prepared by rounding the corners on the ends used for the tops, and the opposite ends are cut slightly on an angle to give the back a slant. They are then fastened with the small hinges to the top board. On the edges of the top board, 1-in. holes are bored about 1 in. deep, and pins driven for foot rests. These are located 18 in. apart, beginning about 5 in. from the front end. The dowel is used for the pins, which are made 4 in. long.

The steering device consists of a broom handle, cut to 18 in. in length, with one end fastened in a hole bored centrally in the 5-in. crosspiece of the front sled. A hole is bored in the top board through the center of the crosspiece fastened to the under side for the steering post. The broomstick is run through this hole after first placing two metal washers on it. After running the stick through, a collar is fastened to it just above the top board, so that the top cannot be raised away from the sled. At the upper end of the broomstick a steering wheel is attached, made from a nail-keg hoop. A piece of wood is fastened across its diameter, and the hoop is covered with a piece of garden hose and wrapped with twine. In the center of the crosspiece, a hole is bored to snugly fit on the broom handle, which is then fastened with screws.

The rear sled is fastened to the top board with screws through the extending wings of the hinges and into the crosspiece. Holes are bored in the front ends of all runners, and a chain or rope is attached in them, the loop end of the rear one being attached to the under side of the top board, and the one in the front used for drawing the sled.

To Prevent Drill from Catching As It Passes through Metal

The regular slope of a drill will cause the cutting edge to catch as it breaks through the metal on the opposite side of the piece being drilled. But if a twist drill is ground more flat like a flat drill, it will not "grab" into the metal as it passes through.--Contributed by James H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

An Ice Boat and Catamaran By Robert K. Patterson

This combination is produced by using the regular type of ice boat and substituting boats for the runners, to make the catamaran.

In constructing the ice boat, use two poles, or timbers, one 16 ft. and the other 10-1/2 ft. long, crossed at a point 2-1/2 ft. from one end of the longer timber. The crossed pieces are firmly braced with wires, as shown.

The mast, which should be about 12 ft. long, is set into a mortise cut in the long timber, 15 in. from the front end, and is further stabilized by wires, as shown. A jib boom, about 6 ft. long, as well as a main boom, which is 11-1/2 ft. long, are hung on the mast in the usual manner.

The front runners consist of band-iron strips, 18 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 1/8 in. thick, with one edge ground like the edge of a skate, and the ends rounding, which are fastened with bolts to the sides of wood pieces, 18 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 2 in. thick, allowing the ground edge to project about 1 inch.

When the ice-boat frame is made of poles, the runners are attached to a piece of wood, 12 in. long, shaped as shown and fastened at right angles with bolts running through the shouldered part diagonally. This makes a surface on which the pole end rests and where it is securely fastened with bolts. If squared timbers are used, the runners can be fastened directly to them. The rear, or guiding, runner is fastened between two pieces of wood, so that its edge projects; then it is clamped in a bicycle fork, which should be cut down so that about 3 in. of the forks remain. A hole is bored through the rear end of the long pole to receive the fork head, the upper end of which is supplied with a lever. The lever is attached to the fork head by boring a hole through the lever end at a slight angle to fit the head, allowing sufficient end to be slotted, whereupon a hole is bored through the width of the handle, and a bolt inserted, to act as a clamp.

A board is fastened on two crosspieces mortised in the upper part of the pole, for a place to sit on when driving the boat. The sail can be constructed of any good material to the dimensions given.

To rig up the ice boat for use as a catamaran, place a pole across the stern, the length of the pole being equal to the one used on the front part of the ice boat. Two water-tight boats are constructed, 16 ft. long, 12 in. wide, and 10 in. deep at the center. To make these two boats procure six boards, 16 ft. long, 10 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. Three boards are used to make each boat. Bend one board so that it will be in an arc of a circle, then nail on the two side boards, after which the edges of the sides are cut away to the shape of the bent board. The runners are removed from the ice boat, and the boats fastened to the pole ends. A rudder is attached in the place of the rear, or guiding, runner. The tops of the boats, or floats, can be covered and made water-tight.

Mind-Reading Effect with Cards

Five cards are shown, and some one person is asked to think of two cards in the lot, after which the performer places the cards behind his back and removes any two cards, then shows the remaining three and asks if the two cards in mind have been removed. The answer is always yes, as it cannot be otherwise.

To prepare the cards, take any 10 cards from the pack and paste the back of one card to another, making five double cards. Removing any two cards behind the performer's back reduces the number of cards to three, and when these are turned over they will not have the same faces so that the ones first seen cannot be shown the second time even though all five cards were turned over and shown.

An Air Pencil to Make Embossed Letters

The device illustrated is for making embossed letters on show cards, signs, post cards, etc. A small bulb, such as used on cameras, is procured, also the spout from a small oilcan. The bulb is fastened to the spout as shown.

The material for use in the pencil is quick-drying mucilage thickened with flake white. If some special color is desired, tint the mixture with aniline. Fill the spout with the mixture and attach the bulb. Squeeze the bulb gently while forming the letters, then dust over with bronze, and allow to dry.

An Endless Dish or Floor Mop

A good way to use up cord that collects about the house, is to make an endless dish or floor mop of it. Procure a thin board that will make a good length and wind the cord around it, then remove it from the board and tie the bunch together in the center.

Combination Tie Rack and Collar Holder

An unusual though simple tie rack can be made by supporting the tie bar in the center. By this arrangement the ties can be placed on it from either end, thus avoiding the tedious threading through, required on the ordinary rack supported at each end. Collars may be hung on a peg placed above the tie bar. The pieces can be glued together and a good finish given in the usual way. The rack can be hung up by two screw eyes. The material required consists of four pieces, dimensioned 5/8 by 5 by 8 in., 3/8 by 7/8 by 7-1/2 in., 3/8 by 5/8 by 3-1/8 in., and 7/8 by 7/8 by 2 in. respectively.--Contributed by Arthur C. Vener, Dallas, Texas.

Skates Made of Wood

Skates that will take the place of the usual steel-runner kind and which will prevent spraining of the ankles, can be made of a few pieces of 1/2-in. boards.

Four runners are cut out, 2 in. wide at the back and 1-1/2 in. wide at the front, the length to be 2 in. longer than the shoe. The top edges of a pair of runners are then nailed to the under side of a board 4 in. wide, at its edges.

A piece of board, or block, 2 in. wide is fastened between the runners at the rear, and one 1 in. wide, in front. Two bolts are run through holes bored in the runners, one just back of the front board, or block, and the other in front of the rear one.

Four triangular pieces are fastened, one on each corner, so that the heel and toe of the shoe will fit between them, and, if desired, a crosspiece can be nailed in front of the heel. Straps are attached to the sides for attaching the skate to the shoe. Both skates are made alike.--Contributed by F. E. Kennar, Hennessey, Okla.

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The best paint for paper roofing is asphaltum varnish.

An Ice Glider By Mildred E. Thomas

The enthusiastic pushmobilist need not put aside his hobby during the winter, as an amusement device for use on ice, which will surpass the very best pushmobile, can be easily made as shown in the illustration.

Similar to an ice yacht, only a great deal smaller, the ice glider will require three ordinary skates, two of which are fastened to the ends of the front crosspiece, so that their blades will stand at an angle of about 30 deg. with their edges outward. To get this angle, tapering blocks are fastened to the crosspiece ends, as shown. The skates are then fastened to these blocks.

The crosspiece is 30 in. long and about 8 in. wide. In the center of this piece an upright is constructed, 26 in. high. The edges of the front crosspiece are cut on a slant so that a piece nailed to its front and back edge will stand sloping toward the rear. A handle, 24 in. long, is fastened between the two uprights at the upper end. The rear part is made of a board, 8 in. wide and 40 in. long. The remaining skate is fastened in a perfectly straight position on the rear end. The skates may be attached with screws run through holes drilled in the top plates, or with straps. The front end of the rear board has a hole for a bolt to attach it to the center of the front crosspiece, so that the latter will turn to guide the glider.

A pusher is prepared from a block of wood, into which nails are driven with their ends projecting on the under side. The block is strapped to one shoe, as shown.

The glider is used in the same manner as a pushmobile.

The pusher can be made in another way by using sole leather instead of the block. Small slots are cut in the sides for the straps. Nails are driven through the leather so that the points project. Either kind of pusher is especially adapted for the pushmobile to prevent wear on the shoe.

Prony Brake for Testing Small Motors

The ordinary prony brake is not, as a rule, sensitive enough to make an accurate test on small motors, such as those used in driving sewing machines, washing machines, vacuum cleaners, etc. The arrangement shown in the accompanying sketch has been used for this purpose with good results and was very accurate. The operation of the brake is exceedingly simple.

A pulley without a crown face is attached to the shaft of the motor, which is fastened to the top of a table or bench, and a balance mounted directly over the pulley. The support for the balance should be a narrow strip, which in turn is supported on two upright pieces, as shown. A light rope is put under the pulley, and the ends are looped over the platforms of the balance so that it does not interfere with the operation of the balance. The ends of the rope should be vertical and parallel. The piece upon which the balance rests is raised by inserting wedges, thus increasing the tension in the rope. The resulting friction of the rope on the pulley increases the load.

If the motor is running in the direction indicated by the arrow on the pulley, the tension in the left-hand end of the rope will be greater than in the right-hand end and a weight must be placed on the right-hand platform of the balance. When the weight W is adjusted so that the two pointers on the platforms are exactly opposite each other, the value of the weight W, in pounds, will represent the difference in pull, in pounds, between A and B. If the value of the weight W is known and also the speed of the machine when the weight was determined, the horsepower output can be computed by means of the following equation:

6.2832 × L × W × R.P.M.
Hp. = -----------------------
33,000 × 12

In this equation, L is the distance in inches from the center of the pulley to the center of the rope. Two ordinary spring balances may be substituted for the beam balance and the difference in their readings taken for the value W. For best results, the tension in the slack end of the rope should be as small as possible, and it may be necessary to wrap the rope one or more times completely around the pulley.

A Mystic Fortune Teller

Fortune telling by means of weights striking glasses or bottles is quite mysterious if controlled in a manner that cannot be seen by the audience. The performer can arrange two strikes for "no," and three for "yes" to answer questions. Any kind of bottles, glass, or cups may be used. In the bottles the pendulum can be suspended from the cork, and in the glasses from small tripods set on the table.

The secret of the trick is as follows: A rubber tube with a bulb attached to each end is placed under a rug, one bulb being located under one table leg and the other near the chair of the performer set at some distance from the table where it can be pressed with the foot. Some one selects a pendulum; the performer gazes intently at it, and presses the bulb under his foot lightly at first; then, by watching the swaying of the pendulum selected, he will know when to give the second impulse, and continue until the weight strikes the glass. As the pendulums are of different lengths they must necessarily swing at different rates per second. The impulses must be given at the proper time or else the pendulum will be retarded instead of increased in amplitude. A table with four legs is best to use, and the leg diagonally opposite that with the bulb beneath it must not touch the carpet or floor. This can be arranged by placing pieces of cardboard under the other two legs.--Contributed by James J. McIntyre.

Holding Prints in a Liquid-Filled Tray

After having considerable trouble in keeping my paper prints in the hypo fixing bath from curling, which would force the edges out of the liquid, I found the plan here illustrated a success. I procured a piece of wood, the size of a postcard, and stuck four glass push pins into one surface, one at each corner, and fastened a handle to the center of the upper side. The papers are first placed in the bath, then the board is set over them with the pins down. This holds the prints under the liquid but does not press them tightly together.--Contributed by J. J. Kolar, Maywood, Ill.

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A piece of an old gunny sack will polish brass work
very nicely.

Cellar-Door Holder

A cellar door that opened up against a wall required a catch of some kind to keep it open at times. As I did not want a catch to show on the wall, I devised a holder as shown. Three pieces of wood were nailed to the under side of the door in such positions that they formed a recess in which a fourth piece, 2 in. wide and 1 in. thick, would slide endways. A knob was attached to the upper end of the slide, which served the double purpose of a handle and a stop for the slide. The manner of using the holder is clearly shown.--Contributed by H. T. Smith, Topeka, Kansas.

An Emergency Pencil Compass

The need of a compass when none was at hand caused me to quickly devise a substitute for the work. A piece of stiff wire, about the length of the pencil, was procured, and several turns were made around the pencil, as shown. The lower straight end was filed to a point. The wire can be bent to obtain the radius distance.--Contributed by Preston Ware, Rome, Ga.

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A very effective dip for brass and copper articles,
that will leave a clean and bright finish, is 2 qt.
of aqua fortis, 1 gal. of sulphuric acid, 1 pt. of
water and a pinch of salt.

Renewing Carbon Paper

When carbon paper has been used several times, the preparation becomes almost worn off on some parts, while other parts of the paper are as good as new. The process of renewing is very simple and it can be done by anyone without special apparatus. All that is necessary is to hold the paper in front of a fire or over a radiator a few seconds. The heat will cause the preparation to dissolve and spread over the paper, so that when it is dry the paper will have a new coating. This can be repeated, and in some cases will double the life of the carbon paper.--Contributed by Chester M. Kearney, Danville, Quebec.

How to Clinch a Finishing Nail

A wire or finishing nail may be clinched as nicely as a wrought nail, if a nail punch or piece of iron is placed along the side of it, as shown at A, and the nail hammered into an arched form, as at B. The punch or rod is then withdrawn and the arch driven into the wood.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

To Prevent Washbasin Bottom from Wearing Out

The ears from some sirup buckets were removed and three of them soldered, at equal distances apart, on the bottom of the washbasin near the outside edge of the lower part. These prevented the wear from coming on the bottom of the basin, and it lasted several times as long as ordinarily.--Contributed by A. A. Ashley, Blanket, Texas.

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To curl feathers, heat slightly before a fire, then
stroke with something like the back of a case knife.

Snowshoes: How to Make and Use Them By Stillman Taylor