Chapter XIII: Part IV: Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait (6)

In use, when opening the vise by means of the screw, the rack will drag along the plate, and stop and engage a notch when the opening operation ceases. When it is desired to reduce the opening, it is only necessary to lift the rail by means of the string D. A button is tied to the upper end of the string on top of the bench, to keep it handy for changing the jaw.--Contributed by Harry F. Lowe, Washington, District of Columbia.

Removing Vegetable Stains

To remove stains of vegetables or fruits of any kind from cloth or wood, the following method is very good: The stained piece is first moistened with water and then placed in a jar or pail that can be covered. A lump of sulphur is ignited and dropped into the jar. Place the sulphur on a fire shovel when lighting it to avoid burns. The burning sulphur should be placed in the receptacle on the side where the stain will be exposed to the fumes. The sulphur burns slowly so that the articles will not be harmed.

After the sulphur has burned away, the jar should be kept closed for a few minutes and when the articles are removed, the stains will be gone. This is harmless to try, and the cloth will not be injured if it is in a dry condition. The articles should be washed and dried as soon as they are taken out of the jar.

Picture-Frame Corner Joints

Very often the amateur craftsman comes across a picture which he would like to have framed, but the difficulty and insecurity of the ordinary miter joint for the corners discourage him from trying to make the frame. A very easy way to construct a rigid frame is shown in the illustration. The size of the frame must be determined by the picture to be framed. The width, A, of the pieces depends upon one's own taste.

Four pieces, the desired length and width and 1/2 in. thick, should be dressed out of the material intended for the frame. Four other pieces, 3/8 in. thick and 1/2 in. narrower than the first four pieces, are next made ready and fastened with glue and flat-head screws to the back of the first pieces, as shown. This allows 3/8 in. for glass, picture and backing, and 1/2 in. to lap over the front of the picture on all edges.

By arranging the pieces as shown in Fig. 1, a strong corner lap is secured. A miter lap joint which is not so strong is shown in Fig. 2. The latter gives a mitered-joint effect. This method does away with the use of the rabbeting plane and miter box, both of which are difficult to use with accuracy. Two screws should be used in each joint to reinforce the glue.--Contributed by James Gaffney, Chicago, Ill.

Hunting-Knife Handles

Very artistic handles for hunting knives and carving sets can be made by using disks of horn. Procure some cowhorns from a slaughter house and split them with a saw, using only the large portion of the horn. The split horn is then heated by dry heat--an oven is best--then pressed between two cold plates to a flat piece. If well heated, it is surprising how easily this can be done. The piece is then cut into squares of suitable size which are marked and perforated in the center, the hole being a trifle smaller than the tang of the blade. The tang should be flat and a little longer than the desired handle, with the end made round and threaded for a nut.

A suitable washer is placed on the tang, which is then heated sufficiently to burn its way through the pieces of horn as they are put on the metal. When a sufficient number of disks are on the tang a washer should be slipped on and followed by a round nut. Pressure is applied by turning the nut and repeated heatings of the disks will force them together to make perfect joints. Only a moderate pressure should be applied at a time.

The handle is now to be finished to the shape desired. If black and colored pieces of horn are interspersed, the finished handle will have the appearance of agate. The blade and handle can be lacquered and the ferrules nickelplated.--Contributed by James H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

Holding Wood in a Sawbuck

Anyone who has used a sawbuck knows how inconvenient it is to have a stick roll or lift up as the saw blade is pulled back for the next cut. With the supplementary device, shown in the sketch, which can be easily attached to the sawbuck, these troubles will be eliminated. It consists of two crosspieces hinged to the back uprights of the sawbuck and a foot-pressure stirrup fastened to their front ends as shown. Spikes are driven through the crosspieces so that their protruding ends will gouge into the stick of wood being sawed. The stirrup is easily thrown back for laying a piece of wood in the crotch.

A New Pail-Cover Handle

The handle of the cover, instead of being attached to the center, is placed near the edge and bail of the pail. On the bail and just above the handle of the cover there is formed a loop large enough to accommodate the thumb. With this arrangement, the cover may be removed with the use of but one hand.

Drip-Pan Alarm

The trouble caused by overflowing of the drip pan for an ice box or refrigerator can be overcome by attaching a device that will sound an alarm when the water reaches a level safely below the overflow point. A device of this kind may be attached to the back of the refrigerator as shown in the sketch. A float, A, is attached to the lower end of a rod, B, which slides through staples CC. At the upper end of the rod, a V-shaped copper sheet, D, is soldered. This makes the contact points in the electric wiring. The battery E can be placed under or back of the refrigerator as desired. The method of wiring is clearly shown.

A Live-Bait Pail

Every fisherman knows that live bait will soon die if they do not receive sufficient air. I have succeeded in keeping bait alive and healthy by using a pail of my own construction, which is provided with a compressed-air space to force air to the surface of the water. The air space A takes up one-fifth of the interior at the bottom of the pail, and an ordinary hand bicycle pump is used to fill it through a bicycle-tire valve, B. The pipe C from the air space extends up along the side of the pail and the upper end is bent so that it just touches the surface of the water. The pipe contains a valve to regulate the flow of air.

After the pail has been standing for an hour or more, the bait will rise to the top. The valve is then opened for a few minutes, and the minnows will soon swim around in the water as when this was fresh.--Contributed by T. Whelan, Paterson, N. J.

A Mouse Trap

After using various means to catch the mice in my pantry, I finally decided I could not catch them in the ordinary manner. Knowing that mice are not afraid of dishes but will run all over them, while they will stay away from other things, I took a dinner plate, a bowl that held about 1 qt., a thimble, filled with toasted cheese, and arranged the articles as shown in the sketch, balancing the bowl on the thimble. When the mouse nibbled the cheese, the bowl came down on it, making it a prisoner. The whole was then dropped in a pail of water. Scald the dish and bowl before using them again to remove all traces of the mouse.

Quickly Made Rheostat

A short time ago I found it necessary to melt some silver, and in setting up an arc light to obtain the heat I made a rheostat by winding wire around a large earthenware jar. As the jar is a conductor and would not burn, it served the purpose perfectly. In winding the wire, be careful to keep the coils from touching each other.--Contributed by P. D. Merrill, Chicago, Ill.

Sunlight Flasher for the Garden By Claude L. Woolley

The following apparatus is likely to be novel, and certainly very striking when erected on country estates, particularly on high lands, hillsides, and along the seashore, where the flashes may be seen for many miles out at sea.

It is not unusual in country gardens to see a large hollow glass globe silvered on the inside, mounted on a pedestal, brilliantly reflecting the sunlight. The apparatus described is an elaboration of the idea. The drawing shows in diagram the general construction, exact measurements not being given. However, a convenient height is 3-1/2 to 4 ft., and the circular frame, carrying the mirrors, may be 10 to 14 in. in diameter.

The supporting frame, of galvanized sheet iron or sheet copper, may be either circular or hexagonal in shape. Mounted upon a vertical shaft is a skeleton circular frame, carrying a double row of small mirrors, or ordinary flat mirror glass, mounted in grooves provided for them; the upper row inclined slightly upward, and the lower row slightly downward. If a greater number of angles of reflection are desired, the mirrors may be smaller, and arranged in four circular rows instead of two, each row being inclined at a slightly different angle.

The shaft is pointed at the lower end and rests in a bearing drilled with a V-shaped depression, the bearing being supported by soldering or riveting at each end to the inner sides of the pedestal shell. The upper portion of the shaft passes through a bearing which is also soldered or riveted at the ends, to the inner surfaces of the pedestal shell.

The mirrors, mounted on the shaft, thus are free to revolve vertically with very little friction. Upon the lower end of the shaft is fastened a light gear wheel of rather large diameter, and this in turn is geared to a smaller gear mounted on the end of the armature shaft of a small electric motor of the type that may be driven with a few dry cells; the relation of the sizes of the gears being such as will cause the mirrors to revolve slowly, when the motor is running at normal speed.

Connected to the motor are two or more dry, or other suitable batteries, a small door being provided on the side of the lower part of the pedestal to enable the batteries to be replaced, or turned off, and to give access to the motor. A circular shield is erected over the mirror carrier, surmounted by an ornamental ball, to protect from the weather and to provide a more finished appearance. A waterproof canvas cover may be slipped over the whole in rainy weather.

As new mirror faces at varying angles are constantly being presented to the sun, vivid flashes are constantly occurring when viewed from almost any angle or position on the side where the sun is shining. The circular shield on top is supported in position by four metal strips secured by soldering to the shield and the supporting pedestal.

Such a device may be constructed without much expense, producing a most brilliant effect over miles of territory. The small driving motor may be replaced with a suitable spring or weight-driven clockwork; or four hollow hemispherical metal cups may be mounted on arms, or placed at right angles, and the arms in turn mounted upon a vertical shaft and arranged above the mirror carrier and geared in such manner that the mirrors will revolve slowly, while the cups are revolving with comparatively high speed by the force of the wind.

The mounted revolving cups are similar in form to the apparatus used by the U. S. Weather Bureau for measuring the speed of the wind. They will respond to a good breeze from any point of the compass.

An Automatic Blowpipe

A fine-pointed flame can be used to advantage for certain work, and the alcohol flame and blowpipe have become a necessity, but these may be improved upon so as to make the apparatus automatic in action and more efficient in its work. A bottle or receptacle, A, having a large bottom to provide a sufficient heating surface, is supplied with a cork and a tube, B, bent at right angles. The receptacle, A, is supported on a stand so that it may be heated with a small lamp, C. The light D may be a candle, alcohol lamp, or any flame set at the right distance from the end of the tube B.

The receptacle A is partly filled with alcohol, and the heating lamp lit. The heat will turn the alcohol into gas and cause a pressure, driving it through the tube B, so that it is ignited by the flame from D. The flame will have a fine point with sufficient heat to melt glass.--Contributed by W. R. Sears, St. Paul, Minn.

Homemade Steam-Turbine Engine

Select a tomato can, or any can in which vegetables or fruit is sold, and carefully unsolder the small cap on the end when removing the contents. When the can is empty, clean it well and solder the cap in place again. Procure a strip of brass, bend it as shown at A and solder it to the can top in the center. Cut a piece of about No. 14 gauge wire, the length equal to the opening between the uprights of the U-shaped piece of brass, with about 1/2 in. added for a small pulley wheel. The uprights are punched or drilled at their upper ends to admit the wire which is then adjusted in place.

Two strips of tin are cut to fit in between the standards and are notched in the center, as shown at B, and slightly bent to fit over the wire shaft. These are soldered to the wire between the uprights. A small hole is punched on one side in the top of the can so that it will center the paddle of the wheel. On the opposite side of the top another larger hole is punched and tightly fitted with a wood plug. This is the opening for filling the boiler with water. The can should be filled about two-thirds full and set on a stove. The steam, coming under pressure from the small hole, strikes the paddles of the wheel with considerable force and causes it to revolve rapidly. Be careful not to set the boiler on too hot a fire.

Electric Switch for Exposing Photographic Printing Papers

The proper time to expose a printing paper under a negative should be determined and the negative marked for future printing. When this time has been found some means should be provided for making the exposure exactly the same, then the prints will be perfect and of a good tone at all times. For this purpose the instrument shown in the illustration was designed and used with entire satisfaction.

The device consists of an ordinary cheap watch, a standard, or support, for an adjusting screw, a small coil, a movable armature, a knife switch, and a trip arrangement. A neat box or case, about 5 in. square and 3 in. high, is first constructed. A round recess, 1/8 in. deep, is cut in the center of the top, to admit the watch. The standard A is made of brass, 1/8 in. thick and 1/2 in. wide, bent as shown, and a 3/16-in. hole is drilled in the end of the long arm where it will exactly center over the pivot holding the watch hands. A 3/16-in. rod, B, is closely fitted in the hole and supplied with a knurled wheel, C, on the upper end, and an L-shaped arm, D, is fastened to the lower end. The end of this arm should be filed to a point, or a very thin piece of brass soldered to it, so that the end will just touch the minute hand of the watch. The tip end of the point should be bent slightly from the perpendicular toward the direction in which the watch hands are moving, so that, when it is set, the moving hand will easily break the contact.

The magnetic arrangement consists of a 3-ohm coil, E, mounted, as shown, to one side of the case, where it operates the trip levers. The armature parts consist of an L-shaped piece of brass, F, pivoted at G, to which a square piece of soft iron, H, is attached. Two small parts, K, are bent and attached as shown, to furnish a limit stop for the piece F and a support for a spiral spring which holds the armature H away from the coil.

The knife switch L is fastened to the bottom of the case so that the handle will project through a slot in one side of the box. A trip piece, M, and a small eye for attaching a spiral spring, N, are soldered to the knife switch. These two attachments for the switch are insulated from the other parts.

Two binding posts are mounted on top, one being connected to one terminal of the coil E and the other to the watch case. The other terminal of the coil is connected to the standard A. The two binding posts are connected in series with one or two dry cells, and the switch L is connected in series with the lamp used for printing.

The operation is as follows: The arm D, being set for a certain time, the lever of the switch L is set and the light remains lit until the minute hand strikes the point on the arm D, when the battery circuit is closed causing the coil to draw the armature H and allowing the spring N to open the switch L. The lamp is then extinguished.--Contributed by James P. Lewis, Golden, Colorado.

How to Make a Wing Nut

Finding that I needed some wing nuts and not being able to purchase them in the size I wanted, I made them from the ordinary nuts. A hole was drilled through opposite corners of each nut and a staple made of wire riveted in the holes as shown in the sketch. The staple should be long enough to admit the end of the bolt.--Contributed by Clarence L. Orcutt, Buffalo, N. Y.

Cork-Covered Clothes Peg

When screws or nails are used to hang clothes or other articles on, run the nail or screw through a bottle cork as shown. The cork will prevent the nail or screw from tearing the article and also insure the cloth against rust marks, should the article be wet.

Shaping an Old Broom

A broom, having the straws bent and out of shape, yet not worn out, can be fixed up like new in the following manner: Slightly dampen the straw with water and wrap with heavy paper, then place a weight on it. After standing under pressure for several days the straw will be restored to the shape of a new broom. Paint brushes can be treated in the same manner, but in that case linseed oil should be used instead of water.

How to Make a Bolster

The sketch shows a simple bed bolster which I have made and which can be constructed at very little cost. Three circular pieces of poplar or pine, 10-1/2 in. in diameter, are required. These may be made in one cut by nailing the pieces together. Then nail on ten 3/8 by 2-in. strips, 52 in. long, or as long as the width of the bed, leaving about 1/2 in. space between the strips. These strips will thus go about two-thirds of the way around the circle, leaving room to insert the pillows when the bed is not in use. Cover the bolster with building paper or any other suitable material, and it is ready for the pillow shams.--Contributed by C. Martin, Jr., Chicago.

A Fish-Scaling Knife

A useful fish-scaling and skinning knife can be made of an old broken hacksaw blade. This must be at least 6 in. long and will make a knife with a 3-in. blade. Grind the blade to the shape shown and make a handle for it by using two strips of maple, 1/4 in. thick and 4 in. long. These are riveted together with 3 in. of the blade between them.--Contributed by John L. Waite, Cambridge, Mass.

To Prevent Moles from Damaging Growing Seeds

The food most liked by the ground mole is the sprouts of peas and corn. A way to protect these growing seeds is to dip them in kerosene just before planting. The mole will not touch the oil-covered seed, and the seeds are not injured in the least.--Contributed by J. W. Bauholster, Gresham, O.

How to Make a Heliograph By R. B. Huey

The heliograph which is used in the army provides a good method of sending messages by the reflection of the sun's rays. In the mountains there are stations from which messages are sent by the heliograph for great distances, and guides carry them for use in case of trouble or accident. The wireless telegraph delivers messages by electricity through the air, but the heliograph sends them by flashes of light.

The main part of the instrument is the mirror, which should be about 4 in. square, set in a wood frame and swung on trunnions made of two square-head bolts, each 1/4 in. in diameter, and 1 in. long, which are firmly held to the frame with brass strips, 1/2 in. wide, and 3 in. long. The strips are drilled centrally to admit the bolts, and then drilled at each end for a screw to fasten them to the frame. This construction is clearly shown in Fig. 1.

A hole is cut centrally through the backing of the frame and a small hole, not over 1/8 in. in diameter, is scratched through the silvering on the glass. If the trunnions are centered properly, the small hole should be exactly in line with them and in the center.

A U-shaped support is made of wood strips, 3/8 in. thick and 1 in. wide, the length of the uprights being 3-1/2 in. and the crosspiece connecting their lower ends a trifle longer than the width of the frame. These are put together, as shown in Fig. 2, with small brackets at the corners. A slot, 1/2 in. deep and 1/4 in. wide, is cut into the upper end of each upright to receive the trunnions on the mirror frame. Nuts are turned on the bolt ends tightly, to clamp the standard tops against the brass strips on the mirror frame. The cross strip at the bottom is clamped to the base by means of a bolt, 1-1/2 in. long. The hole for this bolt should be exactly below the peephole in the mirror and run through one end of the baseboard, which is 3/4 in. thick, 2 in. wide and 10 in. long.

At the opposite end of the base, place a sighting rod, which is made as follows: The rod is 1/2 in. in diameter and 8 in. long. The upper end is fitted with a piece of thick, white cardboard, cut 1/4 in. in diameter and having a projecting shank 1 in. long, as shown in Fig. 3. The rod is placed in a 1/2-in. hole bored in the end of the baseboard, as shown in Fig. 2. To keep the rod from slipping through the hole a setscrew is made of a small bolt with the nut set in the edge of the baseboard, as shown in Fig. 4.

The tripod head is formed of a wood disk, 5 in. in diameter, with a hole in the center, and three small blocks of wood, 1 in. square and 2 in. long, nailed to the under side, as shown in Fig. 5. The tripod legs are made of light strips of wood, 3/8 in. thick, 1 in. wide and 5 ft. long. Two of these strips, nailed securely together to within 20 in. of the top, constitute one leg. The upper unnailed ends are spread to slip over the blocks on the tripod top. These ends are bored to loosely fit over the headless nails driven part way into the block ends. One tripod leg is shown in Fig. 6.

The screen, or shutter, is mounted on a separate tripod and is shown in Fig. 7. Cut out two slats, 3/8 in. thick, 2-1/2 in. wide and 6 in. long, from hard wood, and taper both edges of these slats down to 3/16 in. Small nails are driven into the ends of the slats and the heads are filed off so that the projecting ends will form trunnions for the slats to turn on. Make a frame of wood pieces, 3/4 in. thick and 2-1/2 in. wide, the opening in the frame being 6 in. square. Before nailing the frame together bore holes in the side uprights for the trunnions of the slats to turn in. These holes are 1-3/4 in. apart. The frame is then nailed together and also nailed to the tripod top. The shutter is operated with a key very similar to a telegraph key. The construction of this key is shown in Fig. 7. A part of a spool is fastened to a stick that is pivoted on the opposite side of the frame. The key is connected to the slats in the frame with a bar and rod, to which a coil spring is attached, as shown in Fig. 8. Figure 9 shows the positions of the tripods when the instrument is set to flash the sunlight through the shutter. The regular telegraph code is used in flashing the light.

To set the instrument, first turn the cardboard disk down to uncover the point of the sight rod, then sight through the hole in the mirror and adjust the sight rod so that the tip end comes squarely in line with the receiving station. When the instrument is properly sighted, the shutter is set up directly in front of it and the cardboard disk is turned up to cover the end of the sight rod. The mirror is then turned so that it reflects a beam of light with a small shadow spot showing in the center made by the peephole in the mirror, which is directed to fall on the center of the cardboard sighting disk. It will be quite easy to direct this shadow spot to the disk by holding a sheet of paper 6 or 8 in. in front of the mirror and following the spot on the paper until it reaches the disk. The flashes are made by manipulating the key operating the shutter in the same manner as a telegraph key.

Twine Cutter for Use at a Wrapping Counter

A cutter for use at the wrapping counter in a drug or confectionery store may be easily made from a double-edged razor blade and a piece of thin board--a piece of cigar box will do. Cut the wood in the shape shown, with a protecting piece over the edge of the razor. Screws are turned through the holes in the blade and into a support on the paper holder or any other convenient place.--Contributed by T. F. Managhan, Philadelphia, Pa.

Frosting Brass

A very fine ornamental finish, resembling brushed work, may be applied to brass articles by boiling them in a caustic-potash solution, then rinsing in clear water, whereupon they are dipped into dilute nitric acid until the oxide is removed, then rinsed quickly and dried in sawdust. The surface should be lacquered while the metal is hot.

A Cupboard-Door Spice-Box Shelf

To keep the spice boxes in a handy place where they would be together and not behind larger articles on the cupboard shelves, I made a special spice-box shelf, as shown, to hang on the inside of the cupboard door. The shelf swings out with the door as it opens, and is made of two bracket ends to which a bottom board and front crosspiece is nailed. The size of the shelf and its capacity are only limited by the space on the door.--Contributed by Austin Miller, Santa Barbara, California.

Starting a Siphon

It is often necessary in a laboratory to siphon acids and poisonous liquids. If a pump is used there is always danger of the liquid entering the pump and damaging it, and, besides, a pump is not handy for this purpose. To fill a siphon by suction from the mouth, great care must be taken to keep from drawing the liquid into the mouth. One of the best ways to fill a siphon is to procure a large dropper and having pressed all the air out of the bulb insert the end in the siphon. Releasing the pressure on the bulb will cause it to draw the liquid into the siphon.--Contributed by Bedell M. Neubert, Newtown, Conn.

A Window-Seat Sewing Box

The combined window seat and sewing box shown was made by using a shoe-packing box for the foundation. This was covered with matting and the edges and corners finished with wood strips, 1/2 in. thick and stained a dark red. Three trays were provided on the inside at the top part of the box, each of the two upper ones occupying one-fourth of the box opening and sliding on a pair of guides fastened to the sides of the box while the lower tray is one-half the length of the box and slides on guides placed far enough below the upper trays to allow it to pass beneath these. The three trays were used for keeping sewing materials, such as buttons, hooks and eyes, etc. When the trays are all moved to one end it gives access to the lower part of the box where the work or mending is kept out of sight.

The inside of the cover is 1-1/2 in. deep and shelves are arranged for thread and silk spools on either side, the center space being used for the shears, thimbles and scissors. The little shelves are made of two pieces each half as wide as the depth of the box cover. The first half of the shelf is fastened in place, then a row of cotters attached with wood screws whereupon the other half of the shelf is put in place. The edges of the cover are rounded on the outside to make an attractive seat.

While no dimensions are necessary, as the box can be of any size to suit the maker it may be mentioned that the one shown is 28 in. long, 12 in wide and 16 in. deep.--Contributed by R. B. Thomas, Lowell, Mass.

Cutting a Glass Bottle

It is sometimes necessary to cut a heavy glass bottle or cylinder. Four methods are in use. A carborundum disk having a thin edge, if kept wet and rotated at a high speed, will cut heavy glass, but the cylinder must be fed against the wheel very gently. A better way is to make a file mark--clean, but not very deep--around the cylinder and heat it with a long slender flame while slowly rotating the cylinder all the time. It is very important that the gas flame should not spread over the surface of the glass, for it is only the file mark that should be heated. A mere glancing touch is sufficient. Usually the glass will crack off in a very clean cut.

Sometimes a fine platinum wire is wound around in the file mark and heated by an electric current. Less common is the trick of wrapping a strand of yarn soaked in turpentine around the mark and burning it. The principle is the same in each case. The unequal heating of the glass causes it to break.--Contributed by Harry H. Holmes, Richmond, Ind.

To Clean Painted or Frescoed Walls

Use a paste made of vinegar and baking soda with a small amount of salt added. The ingredients should be mixed in a large dish and applied to the wall with a cloth. The grease and fly specks as well as the carbon deposits from kitchen smoke are quickly removed. The mixture is harmless. After the wall is thoroughly cleaned, it should be washed with warm water and soap, then dried with a cloth. The mixture works equally well on enameled baths and glass or white porcelain.

Securing Papers in a Mailing Tube

The illustrations show two methods of securing papers or photographs in a mailing tube. In Fig. 1 the mailing tube A is shown in cross section and the manner of running the string through the pasteboard walls illustrated. The ends of the string are drawn up and tied over or under the label. If the label is pasted over the string or string ends as they are tied, it makes a sealed package which is rated as first-class matter.

The second way is to run the cords in a cross form through holes near the ends, as in Fig. 2, then tie the knots as at BB. In each instance even if the papers fit the tube loosely, they will be held securely and can be easily extracted when the knots are untied.

Cooling Tube for a Laboratory Still

A simple and very effective device to replace the cumbersome cooling or condensation coil of a still for the amateur's laboratory can be easily made as follows:

Procure an ordinary straight glass tube of fairly large diameter and heat it in the flame of an alcohol lamp with the use of a blowpipe or in a Bunsen burner with a very reduced flame so that only a small spot of the tube is brought to a red heat at one time Then, with a previously pointed and charred stick of wood--a penholder for instance--produce a small recess in the wall by pushing the charred end gently into the glowing part of the tube. This procedure is repeated until the whole tube is thus provided with small recesses. The indentations should be made in spiral lines around the tube, thus increasing the surface that is in contact with the cooling water. The operation of making the recesses is shown in Fig. 1. The walls of the recesses should have a regular and uniform slant.

The tube thus produced can either be used as a rectifier (Fig. 2) above a vessel, for fractional distillation because it will allow the most volatile parts to pass out first, or as a condenser (Fig. 3), the arrangement of which needs no explanation. The amateur will find it much easier to make this tube than to coil a very long one.

A Comb Cleaner

A good comb cleaner that does the work easily and quickly can be made from a worn-out varnish brush. The brush selected should not be over 2 in. wide; it should be thoroughly cleaned with benzine and the bristles cut to a bevel, as shown in the sketch. In use, brush across the comb parallel with the teeth, and the dirt between them will be easily removed.--Contributed by John V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.

Scraping Off Surplus Water on a Grindstone

When using a grindstone, an ample flow of water is desirable in order to insure good cutting, and the objectionable spattering may be overcome by fastening a piece of leather to the grindstone frame so that its edge will bear lightly upon the stone just below the point where the work is held. This will scrape off all surplus water from the grinding surface and prevent spattering.--Contributed by Thos. L. Parker, Wibaux, Mont.

A Paper Drinking Cup

The cup is readily made of a piece of paper 8 in. square. Lay the paper on a flat surface, turn the point A over to meet the point B and crease on the dotted line CD, Fig. 1, then turn the corner D up to meet the line BC, Fig. 2, making sure that the new edge DE is parallel with the lower edge and crease. Turn the corner C in the same manner, that is, fold it over to the point E and crease. Fold the two corners at B outward and down, and crease, and the cup is complete as shown in Fig. 3.--Contributed by W. Douglas Matthews, Chappaqua, New York.

Homemade Brush for Cleaning Upholstered Furniture

A durable brush for cleaning upholstered furniture can be made in the following manner: Procure a piece of haircloth, which is made of horsehair woof and linen warp. Strips of haircloth, cut lengthwise and 1-3/4 in. wide, are laid out smooth on a table and a strip of wrapping paper, 1/2 in. wide, is firmly glued to one edge. When this has dried, take out the warp that is not covered by the paper. Brush the fringe of horsehair until it is straight and even, and before commencing to wind, measure 6 in. from one end and glue this portion to the side of a strip of soft wood, 6 in. long, 5/8 in. wide and 1/16 in. thick. When dry, wind the glued length of haircloth and paper around the wood strip, applying glue to each separate turn of winding. The turns should be kept flush on the side that has been glued and the fringed part brushed and straight.

The part to be glued to the handle must be perfectly even in its windings and held firmly in place while the glue is hardening. The winding should be continued until the brush is 1-1/2 in. thick.

The handle is made of a piece of wood, 14 in. long, 1-3/4 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick. Wood that takes a cherry or mahogany stain is preferable. Shape it about as shown in the sketch and round off the edges. The part to which the brush is to be attached must be given a light coat of glue. When that has dried, glue the back of the brush to it, and after the glue has hardened, glue a piece of gimp around the brush part, then drive upholsterers' tacks into the gimp and wood, 3/4 in. apart. Stain and varnish the handle. The back of the handle can be used as a beater, and the brush for removing the dust.--Contributed by Gertrude M. Bender, Utica, N. Y.

Removing Calcium Deposits on Glass

A good way to clean glass vessels in which hard water is boiled is to use the following mixture to remove not only the calcium deposits, but also rust or sulphur stains that may be present. The solution is a mixture of ammonia water and a few ounces of salt. This should be placed in the glass vessel and boiled until the deposits disappear. The ammonia water may be made of any strength by diluting if necessary.

A Cold-Chisel Guide

When making long cuts with a cold chisel, it is almost impossible to guide the chisel edge along a line made with a scriber or pencil and have a straight cut. I find that it is much easier to use a guide, as shown in the sketch. The guide is made of a piece of wood, about 1 ft. long and 1-1/2 in. wide. A slot is cut in the center, wide enough to receive the chisel edge snugly, and about 9 in. long. The guide is clamped to the work, and the cold chisel slipped along in the slot as it is successively hit with a hammer.--Contributed by G. H. Holter, Jasper, Minn.

Care of Paintbrushes

When laying aside paintbrushes, the usual custom is to place them in water and then forget all about them until needed again, with the result that the water usually is found more or less evaporated and the brushes hardened. If a quantity of oil, A, is poured on the water B, it will prevent this evaporation and keep the brushes in good shape.

Filter in a Pump Spout

The sketch shows how to place an ordinary sponge in a pump spout, to filter out sand and dirt particles that may come up with the water as it is pumped. A wire is fastened in the sponge so that it can be easily taken out for washing. When washing the sponge give the pump handle a few strokes so that the dirt collected in the spout will be washed out. Do not press the sponge too tightly into the spout, as this will stop the flow of water.--Contributed by Chas. Homewood, Waterloo, Iowa.

Brown Stain for Wood

Bichromate of potassium gives a lustrous, rich, light to dark brown stain on woods. The crystals are first dissolved into a saturated solution, which is then diluted with water. The stained surface needs no rubbing, as the stain leaves the wood perfectly clear for any desired finish. The satinlike appearance of wood treated by this stain cannot be produced with any of the pigment stains.--Contributed by August Meyer.

An Egg Boiler

In boiling eggs the usual method of dropping the eggs from a spoon into the boiling water often results in a burn, as well as in cracking of the eggs by the fall. In removing the eggs from the hot water and taking one out at a time, no two will be cooked alike. To overcome these difficulties I constructed an egg boiler as illustrated.

A pan was procured--tin or aluminum as desired--about 1 in. deep and 5-1/2 in. in diameter, and holes were drilled in the bottom having dimensions as shown. A handle was attached to the center with washers and nuts. The small ends of the eggs are set in the 1-3/8-in. holes and the whole pan set in a vessel of boiling water. When the boiling is completed, the entire lot of eggs are removed at the same time. As the device with its load of cooked eggs is quite pleasing in appearance, it may be set on a plate and the eggs served from it on the table.--Contributed by W. E. Crane, Cleveland, O.

Removing Black Deposit an Bathtubs

A good way to remove the black deposit left on bathtubs by the water is to use a strong solution of sulphuric acid. The acid should be poured on the discolored enameled surface and washed around with a cloth. The acid should not touch the hands so it is best to use a stick to move the cloth. Neither should it be allowed to touch the metal parts, but if this happens, no harm will result if it is quickly rubbed off with a cloth and water then applied.

In using this acid never pour water into the acid, but always pour the acid into the water.--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.

A Stocking-Stretcher Form

A simple as well as inexpensive device for preventing the shrinking of stockings, more particularly those of children, after they have been washed, thus saving great wear and tear on the fabrics and increasing their length of life, is shown in the illustration. The stretcher can be made by anyone, a knowledge of woodcraft or art being unnecessary. If used, the device will prove to effect quite a saving in money, labor and worry in the course of a year.

Place a new and unused stocking, that properly fits the foot, flat on a heavy piece of cardboard or a wood board, if desired, and mark an outline of the stocking on the board with a pencil. Cut out the design with a penknife or heavy pair of scissors and smooth the edges. A design having the same shape and size as the stocking results. Duplicate boards can be easily made. Place a spool, such as used to hold the finest silk thread, near the upper end of the first form and on top of this place the second. Then drive a nail through the boards and spool and clinch it, or better still, use a small bolt. When the stockings are washed and the dampness wrung out as well as possible, stretch them over the boards and hang them up to dry. They will retain their shape and are easily ironed.--Contributed by Wm. P. Kennedy, Washington, D. C.

Stick Holder for a Chopping Block

Having a lot of branch wood, from 1/2 in. to 1 in. in diameter, to saw, and not wishing to bother with a sawbuck, I rigged up a chopping block, as shown in the sketch, by fastening a piece of board to one side of the block with small lag screws. The piece to be sawed was laid across the block in the notch. If the piece is held down on the block with one foot, the wood is very easily sawn.--Contributed by Wilfred B. Sylvester, Reading, Mass.

Cleaning Gold and Platinum

A good way to clean gold or platinum jewelry is to first brush with soapsuds, then dust magnesia powder over the article and allow it to dry. A few rubs with a cloth makes the article shine with great luster. As magnesia powder is highly inflammable, it must be kept away from fire.

A Twine Spool

The pieces of twine used in tying parcels delivered to a residence are either thrown away or tied together and wound into a ball for future use. The method I use for keeping the pieces of twine is to wind them over a discarded photographic-film spool. The spool was slipped on a finishing nail driven into the wall. The crank for turning the spool was made of a piece of wire, bent as shown and slipped into the slot end of the spool. One end of the first piece of string was tied to the core and then wound around it, the next piece tied to the first and wound up, and so on, as the strings were taken from the packages from time to time. When a string is needed for any purpose I always know where to find it, and it is easier to take it from the spool than from a ball.--Contributed by W. Resseguie, Susquehanna, Pa.

Reinforcing Chair Bottoms

Embossed-leather-board chair bottoms can be made as serviceable as leather in the following manner: Turn the chair upside down and fill the hollow beneath the seat with excelsior, soft rags or fine shavings, then nail a 1/4-in. wood bottom over the filling with brads. Make the wood bottom 1/2 or 3/4 in. larger than the opening. It will thus not be seen, and the seat will last as long as the chair.--Contributed by J. H. Sanford, Pasadena, California.

A Novelty Chain

An inexpensive chain for hanging painted glass panels, transparencies or photographs can be made by joining paper clips together to form the links. A box of 100 clips will make a chain about 10 ft. long. Such a chain can be made in a few minutes and a length of 10 ft. will hold about 4 lb.

If the chain is to be used for holding photographs, each inner loop end is bent out slightly.

Closet Holders for Linen

A combination drawer and shelf for a linen closet is much better than a shelf or a drawer. It is constructed in the manner of a drawer with sides and a back, the front being open and the ends of the sides cut rounding. A clip is attached to the under side of the bottom, near the front edge, to provide a means for pulling out the holder.

Sheets, towels, table cloths, napkins, etc., can be neatly piled on the holder and can be seen without digging down to the bottom. It has the advantage over the shelf that it can be pulled out without anything falling off, and the linen on the back part can be easily reached as well as that in front. The closet may contain as many holders as is necessary and should be provided with a door for keeping out dust.--Contributed by H. A. Sullwold, St. Paul, Minn.

Preserving Dry Batteries

The life of dry batteries, which are to be used in wet or damp places, may be considerably lengthened by being treated in the following manner:

The batteries are placed in glass jars a little wider and higher than themselves. A layer of dry sawdust is placed in the bottom, for the battery to rest on, and the sides are packed with sawdust to within 1/2 in. of the top. Waterproof wires are connected to the binding posts and melted paraffin poured over the battery to the top of the jar. The carbon and zinc terminals should be marked to avoid trouble when connecting several cells together. Batteries treated in this manner are waterproof and can be submerged in water if necessary.--Contributed by Olaf Tronnes, Evanston, Ill.

A Cleaner for Brass

In some recent laboratory experiments the following solution was found to cleanse brass very quickly without harm to the hands or the metal. An ounce of alum was put into a pint of boiling water and the solution rubbed on the brass with a cloth. Stains as well as tarnish were quickly removed. The solution is inexpensive and easily prepared.--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.

Homemade Graduate

If a certain quantity of liquid is to be frequently measured out, it is best to have a graduate marked for this amount without any other markings upon it. To make a graduate for this purpose, procure a pickle or olive bottle of the type shown in the drawing and file a vertical line, A, on each side. These lines should be at least 1/8 in. wide. Place the bottle on a level surface and pour in the amount desired to be measured. Mark on each vertical line with a lead pencil and connect this mark or marks with lines, filed as shown at BB.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Mending a Break in Felt

A good way to mend partially broken felt or a felt hat is to hold a lighted match under the break and smooth out the crevice with the hand. The shellac in the felt is melted by the heat and runs together, mending the felt in such a way that the break is hardly noticeable. This method may also be used to mend felt articles in the laboratory.

Imitating Ebony on Oak

The wood is immersed for 48 hours in a warm solution of alum and sprinkled several times with the following mixture: One part of logwood of the best quality is boiled with 10 parts of water, then it is filtered through linen and the liquid evaporated at a low temperature until its volume is reduced by one-half. To every quart of this bath are added 10 to 15 drops of a saturate of soluble indigo entirely neutral in reaction.

Smaller pieces may be steeped for a time in this solution, then the wood is rubbed with a saturated and filtered solution of verdigris in warm, concentrated acetic acid, and this operation continued until a black color of the desired intensity is obtained. The oak wood dyed in this manner is very similar to real ebony.

Tongue Holder for a Boy's Wagon

To prevent any mishap when coasting in a boy's play wagon fasten the tongue with a coil spring so that it will be kept in a vertical position. The tongue is always out of the way when it is not used for drawing the wagon. The spring is only strong enough to hold the tongue, so that when this is used for pulling there is little or no tendency of the spring to draw the tongue upward. The coil spring is fastened with one screweye in the tongue and one in the front axle.--Contributed by Wm. F. Benson, Brockton, Massachusetts.

Gluing Small Mitered Frames

The mechanic who attempts to fasten a mitered frame in the home workshop usually comes to grief. This is due to lack of proper facilities for holding the frame straight and out of wind, and for clamping or drawing the miter joint together after the glue has been applied. The little device shown in the sketch, if properly made and used, does away with the usual difficulties and annoyances. It consists of a triangular block of wood with raised strips on the two edges that make the right angle, and the clamping piece with the wood screw through the center on the long side. The raised strips are made somewhat thinner than the frame to be fastened, as the clamping piece should bear on the frame and not on the strips; the function of the strips being to hold the frame square. The triangular block should be large enough to take the corner of the frame and leave room enough for the wood screw that holds it in place on the block. Four of these blocks will be necessary and they should be used in conjunction with pinch dogs. These dogs come in different sizes and may be purchased at supply stores or made as shown. The outside of the legs should be straight and parallel and the inside tapered so as to draw the joint together.