Chapter XIX: Part IV: Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait (12)

One of the most economical cleansers for canvas shoes is oxide of zinc. Mix a small quantity of the powder with water, to the consistency of thin paste, and apply it to the canvas with an old toothbrush, rubbing it in thoroughly. Then set the shoes aside to dry before wearing them.--Contributed by Katharine D. Morse, Syracuse, N. Y.

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A good substitute currycomb can be made of corncobs
tied together tightly.

Ruling Blank Books

A special ruling for a blank book can be drawn by using a thin piece of sheet metal or cardboard, cut as shown in Fig. 1, for a template. The pencil is drawn along one edge of the cutout so that it will make lines as shown in Fig. 2.

If horizontal lines are required, cut notches on the edge for the location of each line as shown. When the vertical lines are drawn, these notches will mark the places for the horizontal lines.

How to Demagnetize a Watch

Quite often the attendants or a visitor to an electric-light plant discovers after a few days that his watch is losing a half hour or more a day by having become magnetized by the dynamos. In stations where the old types of machines are still in use there is a great deal more danger from what is called "stray" magnetic fields than in those where modern machines are installed.

The jeweler demagnetizes a watch in the following way: He has a piece of soft iron with an opening cut in its center of such shape and size as to receive the watch, and with a fine wire wound about it. After the watch has been placed in position, an alternating current, that is, one whose direction is changing at regular intervals, is sent through the winding, and thus a magnetic field is produced that also changes in direction as the current reverses. The current is gradually reduced in value and the magnetism originally possessed by the watch is removed. When an alternating current is not available, a direct current may be used, its direction being rapidly reversed by what is known as a "polarity changer."

Anyone can demagnetize his own watch, however, with very little trouble and no expense by a much simpler method. Procure a piece of heavy linen thread about 3 ft. long, attach one end of it to the ring of the watch, hold the other end and turn the watch around until the thread is twisted at least one hundred times. Now allow the thread to unwind, and as the watch revolves, pass it back and forth near a powerful electromagnet. The field magnet of a good-sized generator or motor will answer. The machine should be in operation, or at least there should be a current in the windings about the fields, when you attempt to demagnetize the watch. While the thread is unwinding, and the watch moved in the magnetic field, gradually withdraw from the magnet so that when the watch ceases to revolve, it is just outside of the field.

Always be sure to keep the watch revolving while it is in the magnetic field, otherwise the results will be very unsatisfactory, and more harm than good may result.

A Pencil Holder

Procure a piece of paper, 7 in. long and 4 in. wide, and roll it one time around a lead pencil, then coat the remaining surface of the paper with glue. Roll this around the pencil and a tube is formed, which will hold a pencil or even pieces of pencil down to 1/2 in. in length.--Contributed by W. D. Brooks, Paterson, N. J.

A Poultry-Food Chopper

The illustration shows a handy device for cutting roots for food, and for chopping and mixing stale bread, potatoes, peelings, refuse fruit, etc., for poultry. Any blacksmith can make the chopper at little cost. For the cutting blades use two pieces of steel a little heavier than oil-barrel hoops, each 1-1/2 in. wide and 8 in. long. Procure a 1/2-in. iron rod, about 3 ft. long, bend one end in the shape of a spade handle and split the other end for a distance of about 2-1/2 in.

Sharpen one edge of each blade and curve the metal slightly. Lay the two blades together with the convex sides touching in the center and insert them in the slit in the handle end. They are riveted or welded in place. Heat and bend the blades at right angles.

Many of the materials mentioned for poultry foods may be chopped in an ordinary pail having a strong bottom, but it is best to make a box, about 1-1/2 ft. square and with a plank bottom, for use with the chopper.

A Small Spring Hinge

Box covers or small doors that are seldom used can be supplied with a small spring hinge as shown in the illustration. The hinge is made of a piece of spring wire which is formed similar to a staple with a coil or complete turn given to the wire in the center. It is attached by driving the points, one into the door and the other into the casing.

Shoestring End

When the tips slip from shoelaces, new ones may be readily made of fine wire. The wire is run through the end of the lace, Fig. 1, and the two ends are twisted tightly together as shown in Fig. 2. This covers the end of the lace and makes, a tip that is easily passed through the eyelets.

Threads on Wood Shafts

In model making it is quite necessary at times to have threads on a wood shaft. These can be made quite satisfactorily by coiling a wire around the shaft where the threads are wanted, and driving the ends into the wood.

A Glass Breaker

After cutting glass, and especially where a small strip is to be removed, the part must be broken away in small pieces. The accompanying sketch shows a very useful tool for this purpose. The tool is made of a piece of metal having a bolt fastened to it at one end whose nut can be adjusted to the thickness of the glass.

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Old discarded blueprints can be made white and used
for sketching by dipping them in a solution of soda
and water, in the proportions of 4 oz. of soda to each
gallon of water.

Wood Postal Cards

The card consists of three pieces, or three-ply, veneer. The grain of the outside veneer runs lengthwise, while that of the inside piece runs crosswise. This makes the card straight and keeps it from breaking. For the inner section, walnut, which may be had as thin as 1/64 in., or any thin straight-grained veneer may be used. Two pieces of veneer, about 3-3/4 in. wide and 6 in. long; one piece, 6 in. wide and 3-3/4 in. long,--the length being with the grain of the wood--and two blocks of wood, known as cauls, of the same size or a little larger, and about 7/8 in. thick, are required.

The veneer is laid flat on a board and cut with a sharp knife or fine saw along the edge of a ruler. The three pieces are glued together in the following manner. Use ordinary hot glue, not too thin, but thin enough to run freely from the brush. The glue is applied evenly on both sides of the inner piece only, and this is then stood on edge until the glue chills. Then the cauls are heated. This is best done on a stove, or on stove lids over a gas fire. While the blocks are being heated, put one veneer on either side of the middle piece, and a piece of thin paper on each side to keep the glue from the cauls. A hand screw or vise should be opened to almost the distance required. One of the cauls is now laid flat, the veneers upon it and the other caul on top. This should be done quickly. Then clamp the whole firmly together. While the full pressure is only needed for about two hours, the pieces should be allowed to dry between the cauls for, say, a day or two, so that they will keep straight. The size of the finished card is 3-3/8 in. by 5-1/2 in. It is cut and planed to size while lying flat on a board, the plane being pushed along on its side on the bench top. To dress or clean, clamp one side to the bench. While a scraper blade may be used to advantage, it is not essential, as a block of wood and sandpaper will do. The thinner it is dressed the better. The sharp edges should be removed with sandpaper. The writing on a wood card is not done in the ordinary manner, as the ink would run. The surface must be prepared, which also gives a finish to the wood. Melt some wax or paraffin in a suitable vessel and cover the surface of the wood, using a brush or rag. The lines for the address on one side are then drawn, and the writing is done with a hard lead pencil. When through writing on one side, cover it with some strong aniline stain. (Aniline, dissolved in hot water, commonly known as water stain and used especially to stain mahogany, is the right kind.) Do not remove the wax that was raised by the pencil point. Brush the stain over until the whole side is covered. When dry, repeat on the other side. In about an hour the wax may be scraped off with a dull scraper or some other dull instrument. After every particle of wax has been removed, the card is given a good rubbing with a clean, soft rag. It is well to protect the hands as well as the table during the process.--Contributed by Chas. Schapmeier, Baltimore, Md.

Fastening Screws in Tile and Brick Walls

A simple way to fasten screws in tile or brick walls is to drill holes, not too large, for the screws, then tear up some paper, wet it and make a pulp. Pack this pulp tightly in the hole and turn in the screws. The screws will stand a great deal of strain.--Contributed by John Thomas, Brantford, Ont.

Shoe Pull Made of an Eyelet

The pulling-on strap at the back of a shoe often comes loose, or pulls out, and even if it does not, the trousers will sometimes catch on it if the strap is not tucked inside of the shoe. A very simple way to overcome these troubles is to remove the straps and substitute eyelets. A buttonhook will then serve admirably in pulling the shoe onto the foot.

Holder for a Set of Sadirons

A very attractive holder for a set of sadirons and their handle can be made as shown in the illustration, although the design may be changed if desired. The holder consists of a shield-shaped back, which is fastened to the wall in a convenient place and has a shelf with openings for the irons attached to it. The shelf is made in two pieces, the bottom part being covered with a heavy piece of tin while the upper is cut out to receive the irons.

The irons are placed on the upper piece in such positions that they will be attractively displayed and evenly located, and then a lead-pencil mark is drawn around their base. Openings are cut in the wood on these marks and the board fastened on top of the tin-covered shelf. An ordinary brass bracket is used in the center beneath the shelf, to keep it from sagging.

The shield is fastened to the wall with two screws, over which two brushed-brass, diamond-shaped pieces are fastened with large brass tacks, to cover the screw heads. The corners of the shield may be ornamented with brushed-brass designs, and the wood finished as desired. The irons can be set in the holder while hot without fear of burning any part, and they will present a very neat appearance.--Contributed by G. E. Martin, Hastings, Nebraska.

A Garden Roller

A garden roller for digging the earth and crushing clods is easily made of the following material: One round piece of wood, 10 in. in diameter and 18 in. long; two pieces of wood, each 56 in. long, 2-1/2 in. wide and 1-1/4 in. thick; one piece, 21 in. long, 2 in. wide and 1 in. thick; two 1/2-in. lag screws, 6 in. long, and a quantity of 8-penny nails.

The short piece of wood is fitted between the two long pieces with tenon-and-mortise joints to serve as a handle at one end and the roller is fastened between the side pieces at the opposite end to revolve on the lag screws. The nails are driven into the roller so that they project about 1 in.

A Substitute for Glaziers' Points

Ordinary small staples make good substitutes for glaziers' tacks. The points of the staples should be drawn apart slightly, as shown at A, to give them a greater holding area and at the same time make them easier to drive. These points seem to hold the glass better than the regular glaziers' points, consequently the putty will not crack and loosen, and renewing is avoided.--Contributed by Edward Sieja, Chicago.

Water-Heating Coil in a Furnace Pipe

The accompanying sketch shows a plan I adopted for conserving the waste heat from my furnace. I found that I was able to put a coil into the smoke pipe, which was about 8 in. in diameter, and thus heat water for domestic purposes. It will be seen that the coil is spiral in shape rather than cylindrical, as the latter would leave a free passage up the center and therefore would not bring enough gases into contact with the coil.

In addition to this coil I have a gas heater near the tank which is used only in case the demand for hot water exceeds the capacity of the coil, which is naturally not as efficient per unit of length as one directly within the firepot would be. It has the advantage of not absorbing heat which should go to make steam, but only that which would otherwise be wasted. The heating surface of the coil is much greater than would be possible within the firepot, which in a measure compensates for its lower efficiency.--Contributed by W. E. Morey, Chicago.

A Homemade Marking Gauge

A 3/8-in. bushing is turned into the side outlet of a 3/8-in. tee. The bushing is then tapped to receive a 7/16-in. wing bolt. A tight-fitting wood plug is driven into the throughway of the tee and the ends ground off flush on the emery wheel. A slot, 5/16-in. square, is then cut through the wood plug just under the bushing. Two pieces of flat steel, each 1/4 in. wide by 1/8 in. thick and 1/8 in. longer than the tee, are fitted in the slot cut in the plug as shown in the sketch. The outer end of each piece is bent at right angles and sharpened. After the points have been drawn out to the right distance, the wing bolt is turned to hold them in that position.--Contributed by C. Molloy, Philadelphia, Pa.

Protecting Brush Handles from Paint

A very efficient method to prevent paint from running down on a paintbrush handle and on the hand is to cut a hollow rubber ball in half, Fig. 1, make a hole in the center to fit the brush handle and attach it as shown in Fig. 2. One ball will fit up two brushes. The cup shape catches the paint and prevents it from getting on the handle.--Contributed by O. H. Meyer, Churdon, Iowa.

A Tie-Pin Holder

Having lost several tie pins by theft or by their falling out I made a little device to securely hold the pin in the tie. This device makes it almost impossible to pull the pin out and it cannot be lost accidentally. The device is made of a small safety pin, bent as shown, with one arm, A, longer than the other, B. The arm A is put on the pin first or upward, and attached as shown at C. When pulling on the tie pin the arms of the holder tend to draw together and clamp it on the pin.--Contributed by Robert C. Knox, Colorado Springs, Colo.

Hulling Walnuts

When gathering my winter supply of walnuts, I found that they could not be hulled readily by hand. Not knowing of any machine designed for the purpose, I tried running them through a corn sheller and found it to do the work nicely. The sheller not only hulled them, but separated the nuts from the hulls, the nuts being carried out through the cob opening and the hulls dropping through the grain spout.--Contributed by Irl R. Hicks, Hallsville, Mo.

How to Make a Small Vise Screw

Procure an ordinary lag screw, as shown in Fig. 1, cut off the pointed end and file the threads into the shape shown in Fig. 2. A hole is drilled through the head and a handle put in, as shown in Fig. 3. This makes a good substitute screw when the original screw for a small vise is broken.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown. Pa.

A Medicine-Spoon Holder

When a dropper is not at hand it is difficult to drop medicine in a spoon while holding it, and the shape of the spoon will not permit its being set down. A shoe horn used as shown in the sketch will hold the spoon right side up and in a position to hold the liquid.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

Knife Holder on a Frying Pan

Instead of laying a knife on the stove or carrying it to a table or elsewhere while frying anything in a pan, make a clip to fit the edge of the pan for holding the knife when it is not in use. The clip is easily made of brass wire and when attached to a frying pan it will save many steps.--Contributed by John C. Harlacker, Jr., Cumberland, B. C.

A Broom for Sweeping Out Corners in Steps

Sweeping the corners of steps is one of the greatest difficulties of the housewife, or others who have a number of stairs to sweep. I have made this task easy in a very simple manner. I secured a used broom, the longer and newer the better, and cut the straws off diagonally across the sweeping edge. The pointed part will easily clean out the corners in steps or in a room.--Contributed by W. A. Stamaman, Berlin, Ontario.

Removing a Cork from a Bottle

A cork that has been pushed into a bottle accidentally or otherwise can be easily removed in the following manner: Tie several knots in one end of a string to form a large cluster and drop it into the bottle, holding on to the other end of the string. Turn the bottle over so that the cork will fall to the opening in the neck, then pull on the string. The cluster formed by the knots at the end of the string will easily draw out the cork.--Contributed by Frank Hart, Chicago, Ill.

Filing Flat Surfaces

Anyone who has used a file knows what skill is required to produce flat surfaces. A fixture which is nothing more than a mirror properly placed enables the operator to sight along the file and see at all times just how the file is running.--Contributed by A. F. Stearns, Madison, Wis.

Tacking a Screen on a Frame

Screen wire is very difficult material to fasten on a frame so that it becomes taut. To make it taut and even drive the tacks as follows: First tack the screen on one side of the frame, taking care to leave no slack between the tacks, which should be about 1 ft. apart. Fasten the opposite side by stretching the screen with one hand and with the other place the tack through the meshes and push the point as far as possible toward the outer edge of the screen frame as shown in the sketch. Drive the tack so that it will enter the wood straight, which will draw the screen taut. After having thus fastened the screen to two opposite sides of the frame with tacks 1 ft. apart, other tacks are driven in midway between the first ones, stretching the screen and driving the tacks as before described, until a sufficient number of tacks are driven into either side. Then both ends are attached in the same manner.--Contributed by Bertram S. Barnes, Santa Barbara, Cal.

Safety Tips on Chair Rockers

Some rocking chairs are so constructed that when the person occupying it gives a hard tilt backward, the chair tips over or dangerously near it. A rubber-tipped screw turned into the under side of each rocker, near the rear end, will prevent the chair from tipping too far back.

Portable and Folding Bookcase or Closet

Two packing boxes hinged as shown and fitted with casters make a very convenient portable closet. It can be folded flat against a wall or fitted into a corner. If furnished with shelves, it can be used as a bookcase or tool closet, and when fully opened, it makes a handy workbench.

Two projecting strips are fitted on the inside of one box so as to fit tightly against the inner top and bottom surfaces of the other box, to increase the rigidity of the box when closed. The addition of casters makes the opening, closing and pushing about very easy. An ornamental hasp or lock can be fitted if desired.

A Curtain Stop

A small screweye turned into the bottom part or wood strip inclosed in the lower end of the curtain will prevent this end from winding over the top roller when the curtain is quickly released and rolls to the top.--Contributed by D. O. C. Kersten, Detroit, Michigan.

An Alarm for a Sleepwalker

A little girl in our family would walk in her sleep and it caused us no little worry lest she might leave the house without our knowing it. I therefore rigged up an alarm device to ring a bell should she leave the room. The device consisted of a bell and battery in a circuit, and a switch which was attached to one door casing. A string was stretched across the doorway and attached to the switch lever in such a manner as to pull it closed when the string was pushed through the doorway opening.--Contributed by J. Woodburn, Toronto, Canada.

A Kraut and Root Grinder

The grinder is intended mainly for chopping cabbage when making sauerkraut, but it is also of much service in grinding vegetables and roots to be cooked for poultry.

The base A is made of a plank, at least 1 ft. wide and 4 ft. long, with a 9-1/4 by 9-1/2-in. hole cut in the center. The grinding part, or cylinder, is made of wood, 3 in. in diameter and 9 in. long, with 8-penny nails, spaced 3/16 in. apart, driven partly into it and then cut off so as to leave 1/4 in. projecting. The cylinder is turned by means of a crank attached to the end of the shaft.

A hopper, B, is constructed, 4 by 9-1/2 in. inside measurement at the bottom, and as large as necessary at the top. A space is provided at the bottom as shown to receive the concave C, which consists of a 1-in. board, 3 to 4 in. wide and 9 in. long, with nails driven in and cut off as described for the cylinder.

The hopper is securely fastened on top of the baseboard and over the cylinder. The concave is slipped into place and held with wedges or by driving two nails in just far enough to fasten it temporarily. The concave can be adjusted for grinding the different vegetable products, or replaced at any time with a new one.

The ends of the base are supported on boxes, or legs may be provided if desired. When grinding cabbage, cut the heads into quarters and remove the hearts. Press the cabbage on the cylinder and turn the crank. Fine bits of cabbage, suitable for sauerkraut, will be the result.--Contributed by J. G. Allshouse, Avonmore, Pa.

Opening for Air at the Top of a Shade

Procure an extra long shade and cut two openings in the end to be used at the top. The openings may be cut square or ornamental as desired, leaving a strip at each side and one in the center. These strips are reinforced by gluing on some of the same material as the shade or pieces of tape.

A shade made in this manner permits the air to enter the room unhindered when the top sash is lowered and at the same time obstructs the view of passers-by.--Contributed by Warren E. Crane, Cleveland, O.

Hose Attachment for Watering Window Plants

The window garden of the house has its watering difficulties which one owner overcame in a neat and handy manner. A hose on a weighted reel was attached to the joists in the basement under the floor near the window flower pots. The weight on the reel kept the hose wound on it and the nozzle end which projects through the floor is large enough to hold it from passing through the hole bored for the hose. A long stem valve was provided with the wheel attached above the floor for turning the water on and off.

When the plants need a shower all that is necessary is to draw the hose nozzle up and turn on the water. The hole for the hose and the valve wheel can be located close to the wall under the flower tray where they will scarcely be seen.

Removing Paint from Glass

Paint may be easily cleaned from glass by using a 50-per-cent solution of acetic acid. The acid should be heated and applied with a cloth. The hot acid will not hurt the hands or fabrics, nor the glass, but should be kept from children who might drink of it. The solution is made of commercial acetic acid and heated by adding hot water. The acid is inexpensive and can be purchased at any local drug store.

To Prevent Baking Ovens from Scorching

A good method to prevent baking ovens from scorching or burning pastry is to sprinkle a mixture of sand and salt on the bottom where the pans are placed. This affords a way of radiating the heat evenly. The mixture also absorbs fruit juices, which may be spilled in the course of cooking. The covering is easily changed, which keeps the oven clean. The best proportion is half salt and half sand.

Horn Candle Sconce

The person who cares for things unusual will find the candle sconce made of a cowhorn a suitable fixture for the den. A well shaped and not too large cowhorn is selected, and prepared by first partly filling it with paper, packed in tightly, then filling it to the top with plaster of Paris, in which a candle socket is formed.

The bracket is made of strips of metal, formed as shown and riveted together where they touch each other, the back piece being fastened with screws to a wall board. The metal may be brass or copper and finished in nickel, antique, bronze, or given a brush finish. The wooden wall piece can be finished in any style desired.

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White spots on furniture can be removed by rubbing
the wood with ammonia.

How to Make a Copper Stencil for Marking Laundry

A stencil suitable for marking laundry may be easily made as follows:

First procure a small sheet of "stencil sheet copper," about 1 in. wide and 4 in. long. Dip this sheet of copper in a vessel containing some melted beeswax, so that both sides will be evenly covered with a thin coat of the wax when it cools. The design--name, monogram or figure--that is wanted in the stencil should now be drawn upon a piece of thin white paper, the reverse side of the paper blackened with graphite, and then laid on the stencil plate with the design in the center of the plate, whereupon the design is lightly traced with a blunt point on the thin wax coating. After the paper is removed, trace the design on the wax surface with a pointed instrument, but not completely, the lines being broken at more or less regular intervals, to form "holders" so that, after etching, the design cannot fall out.

Next lay the stencil in a small shallow dish and pour a small quantity of fresh nitric acid over it. Keep the air bubbles removed from the surface by means of a piece of soft feather. The design will be eaten away in a very short time, where the wax has been removed, and this may be readily observed by holding the stencil plate up to the light. The acid should then be rinsed off with water, and the wax removed by heating and wiping it off with a cloth. The stencil may be given a final cleaning in a dish of benzine or gasoline, which will remove any remaining wax.

A Brass Pin Tray

A novelty pin tray can be easily made of a piece of No. 24 gauge sheet brass or copper, 5 in. in diameter. The metal is annealed and polished with fine emery cloth, which is given a circular motion to produce a frosted effect. The necessary tools are a 1-in. hardwood board with a 2-1/2-in. hole bored in it, and a round piece of hard wood, 1-7/8 or 2 in. in diameter, with the ends sawn off square.

Place the sheet metal centrally over the hole in the board and set one end of the round stick in the center of the metal. Drive the stick with a hammer until a recess about 1 in. deep is made in the center. The edge of the metal will wrinkle up as shown in the sketch. It is scarcely possible to make two trays alike, as the edge almost invariably will buckle in a different manner.--Contributed by F. Van Eps, Plainfield, N. J.

A Homemade Exerciser

A weight machine for exercising the muscles of the arms is easily constructed by using two screw hooks, 5 in. long, and two small pulleys, 2-1/2 in. in diameter. An awning pulley can be used for this purpose. The hole at the top of the hanger will allow the pulley to freely turn at almost any angle. A paving brick or a piece of metal can be used as a weight for each rope.--Contributed by Sterling R. Speirs, St. Louis, Mo.

A Book Covering

New books can be quickly and neatly covered to keep them clean by cutting a paper large enough to cover the back and sides when the book is closed, allowing 1 in. extra at each end to be turned over the front and back edges, then pasting on corners cut from used envelopes. The paper jacket can be slipped on or off easily when the book is opened, and it will keep a new cover clean while the book is being handled.--Contributed by Dr. John A. Cohalan, Philadelphia.

A Tilting Inkstand

An ink-bottle stand, that can be tilted or adjusted so that the pen will always be filled with a sufficient quantity of ink even when little of it remains in the bottle, as shown in the sketch, can be easily made by the amateur. The base may consist of a square piece of sheet brass, which has soldered or riveted to its center two pieces of spring brass, placed crosswise and bent upward so as to form clips to hold the bottle firmly. The legs are made of two lengths of wire, of sufficient stiffness, and are shaped to form holders for lead pencils and penholders. One pair of the legs may be soldered to the brass plate and the opposite side of the latter rolled over the other pair so as to allow them either to stand upright or be depressed in order to tilt the stand, when the ink supply in the bottle gets low.

A Ring Trick

The trick to be described is one of the simplest and at the same time one of the most effective, and but little "make-ready" is required to perform it. The magician, while sitting in a chair, allows his hands to be tied together behind the back of the chair. A ring is placed between his lips which he claims to be able to slip on his finger without untying his hands. This, to the audience, seems practically impossible, but it is easily accomplished.

A screen is placed in front of the performer before the trick is started, so that the audience will not see how it is done. As soon as he is hidden from view, he tilts his head forward and drops the ring in his lap. He then allows the ring to drop to the seat of the chair between his legs. The chair is tilted backward slightly, and he raises himself to allow the ring to slip to the back part of the chair seat, where he catches it in his hands and slips it on the finger. Any one finger may be mentioned, as he can slip the ring as readily on one as on another. Use a leather-bottom chair, if possible, as the least noise will then be made when the ring is dropped.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Massachusetts.

Removing Old Putty

A very effective way to remove old putty from window panes or other articles is to apply a red-hot iron, as follows: The iron should be made of a broken file or cold chisel and the point heated quite hot. This is run over the surface of the putty, which will crack and fall off. Be careful not to let the hot iron touch the glass, as the heat may cause the latter to break.

How to Make a Water Wheel

The materials used in the construction of this water wheel are such as the average amateur mechanic may pick up or secure from a junk pile. The drawings in Fig. 1 clearly show the way the wheel is built. The nozzle, Fig. 2, is made of pipe and fittings and is adjustable to concentrate the stream so as to get the full efficiency of the weight and velocity of the water. The cap on the end of the nipple is drilled to receive the pin point filed on the end of the 1/4-in. rod. The parts of this nozzle are a 1/2-in. tee, connected to the source of water supply; a plug, drilled to snugly fit the 1/4-in. rod, and fitted into one end of the straight part of the tee; and a 1/2-in. nipple of sufficient length to make the dimension shown in the sketch. The nipple has a long thread to receive two 1/2-in. locknuts, which clamp the nozzle to the sheet-metal covering, as shown in Fig. 1.

The buckets, Fig. 3, are formed of some easily melted, but not too soft metal alloy which can be cast in plaster molds. They are attached with rivets to the circumference of 1/16-in. thick sheet-metal disk of the diameter given in Fig. 1. This disk is fastened to a 1/4-in. shaft, 6 in. long, with two collars, one on each side of the disk, both being riveted to the disk and pinned to the shaft. The bearings AA are made of 3/4-in. pipe, each 2-1/4 in. long. Long threads are cut on these to turn through the two 3/4-in. waste nuts BB, which provides a way to adjust the buckets centrally with the stream of water, and to take up any side motion. The pipe is babbitted and drilled for oil holes. The runner or wheel must be well balanced, as the speed will be from 2,000 to 2,500 revolutions per minute with ordinary city pressure. In balancing the wheel, instead of adding an extra weight, a part of the disk is filed out on one edge. The inclosing sides are made of wood--cypress preferred--having the dimensions given, and two 7/8 by 1-1/2-in. pieces are attached to the bottom outside surfaces for mounting the wheel. The curved part is covered with galvanized sheet metal.

The drawing shows a wheel of small diameter, but having considerable power. Greater power may be obtained by increasing the size of the jet and the diameter of the wheel, but the use of too many buckets results in decrease of power. One bucket should be just entering the stream of water, when the working bucket is at a point at right angles to the stream. The water should divide equally exactly on the center of the bucket and get out of the way as soon as possible. Any stagnant water in the case, or dead water in the bucket, is detrimental to the power. A free exit for the water is made at the bottom of the case, as shown.

The construction of the case may be varied and, instead of wood, metal sides and frame may be used. Where the builder cares to make a more substantial wheel and has access to a foundry, the metal parts can be made as shown in Fig. 4. The parts are in this instance fastened together with machine screws. Patterns are made and taken to a foundry for the castings, which are then machined to have close fitting joints.--Contributed by R. H. Franklin, Unnatosa, Wis.

An Interesting Experiment

Take an ordinary board, 2 or 3 ft. long, such as a bread board, and place it on the table so that about one-third of its length will project over the edge. Unfold a newspaper and lay it on the table over the board as shown in the sketch. Anyone not familiar with the experiment would suppose the board could be knocked off by hitting it on the outer end. It would appear to be easy to do, but try it. Unless you are prepared to break the board you will probably not be able to knock the board off.

The reason is that when the board is struck it forces the other end up and the newspaper along with it. This causes a momentary vacuum to be formed under the paper, and the pressure of the air above, which is about 15 lb. to the square inch, prevents the board from coming up. This is an entertaining trick to play at an evening party, and also makes a simple and interesting school experiment.

Ironing-Board Holder

An ironing board that had been used on two chairs was cut off square on one end and a piece of heavy sheet metal cut and bent into the shape shown in Fig. 1. The square end of the board was fitted into the socket formed by the sheet metal. After attaching the socket to the wall with screws the board was easily put in place as shown in Fig. 2. The brace is hinged to the under side of the board.--Contributed by L. G. Swett, Rochester, N. Y.

How to Make a Water Motor By Edward Silja

After making several different styles of water motors I found the one illustrated to be the most powerful as well as the simplest and most inexpensive to make. It can be constructed in the following manner: A disk, as shown in Fig. 1, cut from sheet iron or brass, 1/16 in. thick and 9-3/4 in. in diameter, constitutes the main part of the wheel. The circumference is divided into 24 equal parts, and a depth line marked which is 8-1/4 in. in diameter. Notches are cut to the depth line, similar to the teeth of a rip saw, one edge being on a line with the center of the wheel and the other running from the top of one tooth to the base of the preceding tooth.

A 1/4-in. hole is drilled in the center of the disk and the metal strengthened with a flange, placed on each side of the disk and fastened with screws or rivets. A 1/4-in. steel rod is used for the shaft.

The cups, or buckets, are shaped in a die which can be cast or built up of two pieces, as desired. Both of these dies are shown in Fig. 2. The one at A is made of two pieces riveted together.

If a foundry is near, a pattern can be made for a casting, as shown at B. The die is used in the manner shown in Fig. 3. A strip of galvanized metal is placed over the depressions in the die and a ball-peen hammer used to drive the metal into the die. Cups, or buckets, are thus formed which are soldered to the edge of the teeth on a line with the center of the disk, as shown in Fig. 4. As there are 24 notches in the disk, 24 cups will be necessary to fill them.

The cups are made in pairs or in two sections, which is a better construction than the single cup. The water from the nozzle first strikes the center between the cups, then divides and produces a double force.

When this part of the work is finished it is well to balance the wheel, which can be done by filing off some of the metal on the heavy side or adding a little solder to the light side. This will be necessary to provide an easy-running wheel that will not cause any unnecessary wear on the bearings.

The housing for the wheel consists of two wood pieces, about 3/4-in. thick and cut to the shape shown in Fig. 5. Grooves are cut in one surface of each piece, to receive the edges of a strip of galvanized metal, as shown at A. The grooves are cut with a specially constructed saw, shown in Fig. 6. It consists of a piece of wood, 6 in. long, 1-1/2 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick, the end being cut on an arc of a circle whose diameter is 10 in. A piece of a broken hacksaw blade is fastened with screws to the curved end. A nail is used as a center pivot, forming a 5-in. and a 5-3/4-in. radius to swing the saw on in cutting the groove. After inserting the strip of galvanized metal, A, Fig. 5, the sides are clamped together with bolts about 3-1/4 in. long.

A piece of pipe, B, Fig. 5, having an opening 3/8-in. in diameter, is soldered onto the metal strip A. An ordinary garden-hose coupling, C, is soldered to the end of the pipe.

A bearing, D, shaped as shown, is fastened to one of the wood sides with screws, the wheel shaft is run into it, and the parts assembled. A wheel, either grooved or flat, 2-1/2 or 3 in. in diameter, is placed on the shaft. The hose coupling makes it easy to connect the motor directly to the water faucet.

An Application for Small Wounds

Pure wintergreen oil makes a good local application for all small wounds, bites, scratches, abrasions, etc. There is no germ or microbe, animal or vegetable, dead or living, that can withstand this oil, and at the same time it is not injurious to living tissues. A few drops gently rubbed in where there is apt to be any infection is sufficient.

An infection always follows the wound of a bullet or the scratch of a brass pin, with irritation extending up the limb or part threatening tetanus or lockjaw. These symptoms are manifested by spasmodic pains which shoot upward, but are quickly subdued, if the oil is applied along the track of the pain or infection. This oil is equally effective when locally applied to tendons or ligaments which have been unduly strained.

An ounce of the pure oil does not cost much, and it should be kept in every shop and household. If 5 or 10 per cent of olive oil is added to it, the oil will have more body and will last longer.--Contributed by Dr. E. R. Ellis, Detroit, Mich.

Cores for Use in Babbitt Metal

It is often necessary in making things of babbitt metal to core out some of the parts. A very good core is made of common salt and glue. Mix just enough of the glue into the salt to make a stiff paste, which is then formed into the desired shape or molded in a core box and allowed to harden. This kind of a core can be removed from the casting by soaking it in warm water, which will dissolve the salt and leave the desired hole.--Contributed by H. F. Hopkins, N. Girard, Pa.

How to Build a Wind Vane with an Electric Indicator

Quite often it is practically impossible to ascertain the direction of the wind by observing an ordinary wind vane on account of the necessity of locating the vane at such a height that it may give a true indication. By means of the device shown in Fig. 2, the position of the vane may be determined without actually looking at the vane itself and the indicating device may be located almost anywhere and independently of the position of the wind vane.

The principle upon which the device operates is that of the Wheatstone bridge. The position of the moving contact A, Fig. 1, is controlled by the wind vane. This contact is made to move over a specially constructed resistance R, Fig. 2. A second movable contact, B, is controlled by the observer and moves over a second resistance, identical with that over which the contact A moves. These two resistances are connected so as to form the two main branches of a Wheatstone bridge; the points A and B are connected to the current-detecting device, which may be a galvanometer or telephone receiver, and current is supplied by a number of dry cells.

In order to obtain a balance--that is, no current through the receiver--the points A and B must occupy corresponding positions on their respective resistances. If the two resistances over which the points A and B move are mounted in the same position with respect to the cardinal points of the compass, then the points themselves will always be in the same position with respect to the cardinal points when a balance is obtained. The arrow head on the wind vane and the point A are made to occupy corresponding positions, and hence the position of the point B, when no current passes through the receiver, is an indication of the direction in which the wind vane is pointing.

The principal parts in the construction of the device are shown in the illustration, and the following description of their construction may be of interest to those who contemplate building the indicator.

Procure two pieces of 1/16-in. hard rubber, 1-1/2 in. wide by 24 in. long. Clamp these, side by side, between two boards and smooth down their edges and ends, and then file small slots in the edges with the edge of a three-cornered file. These slots should all be equally spaced about 3/32 in. apart. Have the pieces clamped together while filing the slots and mark one edge top and one end right so that the pieces may be mounted alike. Now procure a small quantity of No. 20 gauge bare manganin wire. Fasten one end of this wire to one end of the pieces of rubber by winding it in and out through three or four small holes and then wind it around the piece, placing the various turns in the small slots that were filed in the edges. After completing the winding, fasten the end just as the starting end was attached. Wind the second piece of rubber in a similar manner and make sure to have the length of the free ends in each case the same. Obtain a cylinder of some kind, about 8 in. in diameter, warm the pieces of rubber by dipping them in hot water, bend them around the cylinder and allow them to cool.

A containing case, similar to that shown in cross section in the upper portion of Fig. 2 should now be constructed from a good quality of tin or copper. The inside diameter of this case should be about 1 in. more than the outside diameter of the resistance ring R, and it should be about 3 in. deep. The top C may be made curved as shown in the illustration, and should be fastened to the case proper by a number of small machine screws. The base of this case may be made so that the whole device can be mounted on the top of a pole.

Mount a piece of 1/4-in. steel rod, about 1/2 in. long, with a conical hole in one end, in the center of the bottom of the case as shown by M. A number of supports, similar to the one shown, should be made from some 1/4-in. hard rubber and fastened to the sides of the case, to support the resistance ring. The dimensions of these supports should be such that the ends of the piece of rubber, forming the ring, are against each other when it is in place. The upper edge of the ring should be about 2 in. above the bottom of the case.

Next, mount a piece of brass tube, D, in the exact center of the top and perpendicular to it. A washer, E, may also be soldered to the top so as to aid in holding the tube. Procure a piece of steel rod, F, that will fit in the tube D and turn freely. Sharpen one end of this rod and mount a brass wind vane on the other end. A small metal cup, G, may be soldered to a washer, H, and the whole mounted on the steel rod F in an inverted position as shown, which will prevent water from getting down inside the case along the rod. The cup G may be soldered directly to the rod. Make a small arm, J, of brass, and fasten a piece of light spring, K, to one side of it, near the outer end, then mount the arm on the steel rod so that it is parallel to the vane and its outer end points in the same direction as the arrow on the vane. The free end of the light spring on the arm J should be broad enough to bridge the gap between adjacent turns of wire on the resistance ring. Four bindings should then be mounted on the inside of the case and all insulated from it with the exception of number 1. Numbers 2 and 3 are connected to the ends of the winding and number 4 is connected to number 3.

A second outfit should now be constructed, identical with the one just described except that it should have a flat top with a circular scale mounted on it, and the arm L should be controlled by a small handle in the center of the scale. The position of the contact B may be indicated on the scale by a slender pointer, attached to the handle controlling the arm L.

Four leads of equal resistance should be used in connecting the two devices and the connections made as shown. An ordinary buzzer placed in the battery circuit will produce an interrupted current through the bridge circuit and a balance will be obtained by adjusting the contact point B until a minimum hum is heard in the telephone receiver.

Planting Seeds in Egg Shells

When growing flower plants from seeds, start them in halves of shells from hard-boiled eggs. When the time comes to transplant them, they can be easily removed by allowing the dirt in the shell to become hard and then breaking off the shell, whereupon the plant is placed in the ground.

A pasteboard box provided with holes large enough to support the egg shells can be used to hold them, unless egg crates are at hand. Two large seeds such as nasturtiums and sweet peas can be planted in one shell, and four seeds of the smaller varieties.--Contributed by Katharine D. Morse, Syracuse, N. Y.

Locating Drip Pan under a Refrigerator

In replacing the drip pan of an ice box or refrigerator it is often necessary to bend over in locating it under the drip pipe. This trouble may be done away with by fastening two strips of wood in a V-shape to the floor beneath the refrigerator. When the pan is shoved under, it will strike one strip and slide along until it strikes the other. Then the pan is sure to be under the drip pipe.--Contributed by Lloyd A. Phelan, Beachmont, Mass.

Windmill for Light Power