Chapter XVII: Part IV: Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait (10)

A Bright Dip for Metal

Articles of brass, copper and bronze may be given a bright luster by dipping them into a solution composed of 50 oz. of nitric acid, 25 oz. of sulphuric acid, liquid measure, and 1/2 oz. of soot and 1/2 oz. of salt, by weight. After the articles are dipped into the solution they are removed and thoroughly washed, then dried in sawdust to prevent streaks.

An Interesting Vacuum Experiment

A very interesting experiment may be performed with two drinking glasses, a small candle end and a piece of blotting paper, says the Pathfinder. The glasses must be the same size and of the thin-glass kind. The candle end is lighted and set in one glass; the blotting paper is well dampened and placed on top of the glass, and the other glass inverted and its rim placed exactly over the lower one and pressed down tightly. The candle will burn up all the oxygen in the glass and go out.

The air in the glass being heated will expand and some of it will be forced out from under the moist paper, and then, as the portion remaining cools, it will contract and draw the upper glass on the paper and make an air-tight joint. The upper glass can then be taken up and the lower one will cling to it.

A Sliver Extractor

If a clipper for the finger nails becomes dull do not throw it away, but keep it in the tool box in a handy place. It is very useful for extracting slivers from the flesh.--Contributed by G. Wokenfuss, McCook, Neb.

Night Croquet Playing

Croquet playing became so interesting to us that we could not find time to do all our playing during the day. So at night we attach a candle to each of the wickets and also use one at each corner of the grounds. These light the grounds so that the game can be played nicely. The candles may be attached by wiring them to the wickets or by using small pasteboard boxes, similar to a pill box of sufficient size, and running a wire through the center or down the sides, which is hooked over the top to hold them upright on top of the ground. The latter way is the better as the candles may be pulled up in the day time and taken out of the way.--Contributed by Geo. Goodbrod, Union, Ore.

A Nursing-Bottle Holder

The ordinary nursing bottle with nipple necessitates holding the bottle in a certain position, and when the valve nipples are used, the bottle should be held far enough away to allow this valve free action. To accomplish this I constructed a very simple wire holder for the bottle as shown in the illustration. Ordinary telephone wire will hold any bottle. The wire is bent to hook on the side of the crib, cradle or cab.--Contributed by W. A. Humphrey, Columbus, O.

Milk-Ticket Holder

An ordinary spring mousetrap makes a good bread or milk-ticket holder. The wood part of the trap can be easily nailed or screwed to a door or window casing. The way the tickets are held is clearly shown in the sketch.

Joint for Cabinet Work

In making a cabinet containing 56 drawers of various sizes, I used the method shown in the sketch for making the frame. The horizontal strips A should be all fastened together when sawing the notches to fit over the uprights. The uprights B should be sawn in the same manner. It is best to round the front of the rear uprights slightly and also any other places where the drawers might strike when pushing them into place. The length of the runners C should be 1-1/2 in. less than the length of the drawer.--Contributed by J. H. Dickson, Polk, Pa.

* * * * *

Do not expect accurate work unless you have accurate
tools.

Starting a Saw Cut

A fine piece of woodwork is often spoiled by the amateur craftsman when starting a cut with a saw. As the first stroke of the saw on the edge of the board is made, the teeth often break a splinter from the edge or the saw jumps to one side of the line, thereby making a rough and uneven cut. This can be avoided in a very simple way.

After marking the line, take a sharp knife and make a cut across the edge, as shown, and draw the knife down well over the corners of the board for about 1/8 in. Place the saw on the cut and start it slowly. The saw blade will follow the cut of the knife blade.

A Substitute Penholder

One evening when my wife was using the only penholder in the house I desired to do some writing and being in a hurry, I hastily made a substitute holder of a pencil. Two cuts were made in the butt end, as shown; the pen was then slipped in, the outside wound with a rubber band, and my penholder was complete.--Contributed by H. A. Sullwold, St. Paul, Minn.

Protecting Binding Posts on Wet Batteries from Corrosion

When recharging the cells of a wet battery it is best to procure the best grade of sal ammoniac, the kind that is put up in boxes having a sufficient amount for one cell. Then, before putting the solution into the cell, melt some paraffin used for preserving purposes and dip the upper end of the carbons, zinc, and the glass jar in it. This will apply a coat of insulating wax that will prevent any white deposit from working up on the parts and corroding the binding posts, or terminals.

The cells are then filled in the ordinary manner, after which the carbons and zincs are raised just far enough to admit a layer of common machine oil, about 3/8 in. thick. The oil not only prevents evaporation but aids greatly to keep the uncovered parts from corrosion.--Contributed by L. R. Kelley, Philadelphia, Pa.

A Cork Puller

A very simple and easy way to remove a stopper from a bottle, when a cork puller is not at hand, is to press two nails into the cork, as shown in the sketch, and, taking a firm hold on both nails, draw the cork out. Brads may be used on smaller corks. Large and tightly fitted corks may be drawn by gripping the nails with a pair of pliers.--Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.

Holder for a Garden-Hose Nozzle

When sprinkling a lawn with an automatic spraying device on a hose nozzle it is necessary to have some kind of an arrangement to tilt the end at the proper angle. I find that a holder made of a heavy piece of galvanized wire bent in the shape shown can be used to set the nozzle at any angle. The wire is easily pushed into the earth and does no harm to the lawn.--Contributed by T. J. Ingram, Jr., Lynchburg, Va.

Alarm to Designate a Filled Storage Battery

When a storage battery is recharged, the completion of the recharging is marked by the development of gas in the cell. This fact is the basis of a simple electrical device which will ring a bell when the battery is fully charged. A glass tube bent as shown and having a small bulb near its upper end is inserted in the top of the cell, a small quantity of mercury being first introduced in the bend below the bulb. Wires extend down the upper tubing to within a short distance of the mercury. These wires are connected with binding posts so mounted that they can rest on top of the tube, whereupon the bell circuit is completed as shown. Small quantities of gas may develop during the charging of the cell, but if a small hole is pierced in the tube between the mercury and the cell, this gas will not exert pressure enough on the mercury to push it up and connect it with the wires, which will take place first when the development of gas becomes very active at the completion of the recharging.

Stretching Poultry Fencing

The woven-wire poultry fencing is an unusually difficult thing to handle and fasten on posts so that it will be taut and evenly stretched. The best method I have ever seen for drawing this fencing and holding it for nailing to a post is the use of the device shown in the sketch. It consists of a board, as long as the fencing is wide, with screw hooks set far enough apart to catch into the meshes of the wire, and a crosspiece attached to the board by pieces of rope at the ends and provided with a pulling loop in the center.--Contributed by Joseph C. Laackman, Meadow Brook, Pa.

A Centering Gauge

The centering gauge consists of a piece of celluloid on which several circles are drawn having different diameters, but all drawn from the same center. A small hole is made at the center to admit the point of a center punch. Two sets of circles may be drawn on one piece as shown, but the lines should be spaced far enough apart to allow the metal to be clearly seen through the celluloid. The sheet is placed on the end of a shaft and adjusted so that a ring will match the circumference of the shaft, then the center punch is set in the center hole and struck with a hammer. The center punch for marking is shown in the sketch.--Contributed by Harry Holst, San Francisco, Cal.

Homemade Letters for Marking Bags

An initial marker for bags can be made of a beet or potato. Cut off enough of the vegetable to provide a flat surface of sufficient size and then cut out the letter as shown in the sketch, and use shoe blacking as ink. In cutting, remember that most of the letters must be made reversed in order to print right. For example, in making a B, draw it out on paper and cut it out, then lay the face of the pattern on the flat surface of the vegetable and cut around it.

To Keep a Crease in a Soft Hat

The crease in a soft hat can be kept in proper shape with the aid of a paper clip. The clip is slipped over the fold inside of the hat which forms the bottom part of the crease.--Contributed by Jas. M. Kane, Doylestown, Pennsylvania.

A Shoe Scraper

A good boot and shoe scraper for a step can be made of a worn-out and discarded broom. Cut off the straws and strings as shown in the sketch, allowing one string to hold them together, and make the notch the width of the shoe. Tie the extending ends together, and mount the whole on a suitable block, or, if desired, a hole can be bored in the step to receive the handle, and the scraper thus securely attached.

This makes an effective scraper for the bottom as well as the sides of shoes of almost any size.--Contributed by Jno. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.

A Vegetable Slicer

A tin bucket or can makes a good slicer for vegetables when no other slicer is at hand. A number of slots are cut across one side of the can, and the lower edge of each slot slightly turned out to form a cutting edge. The vegetable is placed against the top of the can and pushed down over the slots. Each slot will cut off a slice which falls inside of the can.

Bench Stop for Planing Thin Boards

A bench stop for planing thin boards with a hand plane may be made in the following manner: Procure a piece of strap iron about 1/4 in. thick, 1-1/2 or 2 in. wide, and about 6 in. long. File or grind one edge sharp on top and drill a 1/4-in. hole through the center. Cut a slot in a board or in the workbench large enough to receive the stop A flat. Place enough strips of rubber or fit two coil springs, B, to raise the sharp edge out of the slot. Insert a screw in the hole of the stop and adjust it to the desired height by turning the screw up or down.

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In a case of emergency, lemon juice may be used as
soldering flux.

A Jardinière Pedestal

The pedestal may be made of any close-grained wood, such as basswood or maple, if the stain is to be walnut or mahogany, but it can also be constructed of quarter-sawed oak and finished in a waxed mission or varnished surface. The material required is as follows:

1 top, 12 by 12 by 7/8 in., S-2-S.
2 caps, 6 by 6 by 7/8 in., S-2-S.
1 upright, 18 by 4 by 4 in., S-4-S.
1 base, 8 by 8 by 7/8 in., S-2-S.

The top is centered and a circle, 11-1/2 in. in diameter, is drawn upon it, and sawn out. The caps are also centered and circles drawn upon them, 5-1/2 in. and 3-1/2 in. in diameter. Saw them out on the larger circles and center them in a wood lathe and turn out the wood in the smaller circles to a depth of 1/2 in. The upright is then centered in the lathe and turned to 3-1/2 in. in diameter for its full length.

The base and foot pieces are cut out as shown, fitted together and fastened with screws from the under side. One of the caps is mounted in the center on the base and the other cap in the center on the under side of the top. The upright is then placed in the turned-out parts of the caps and either glued or fastened with screws.

If light wood is used, the finish can be walnut or mahogany. A very pretty finish can be worked out in pyrography, if one is familiar with that work.--Contributed by Russell T. Westbrook, Dover, N. J.

A Lawn-Tennis Marker

The liquid receptacle is a metal biscuit box, about 9 in. square and mounted on a wheel with a handle, the whole being similar to a wheelbarrow. The wheel is 7 in. in diameter and 2-1/2 in. thick. The wheel and box are bolted between two pieces of strap iron in the manner shown, and the handle is attached back of the box. If the box is of very thin metal, boards should be placed within on the sides where it is fastened to the strap iron. A roller is pivoted in the box at the lower back corner and a canvas tape or band run over the roller and wheel in the manner of a belt. The tape should run through a slot cut in the front part of the box, about midway between the top and the bottom. The edges of the tin in the slot must be turned over and hammered down to make a smooth surface for the tape to run over.--Contributed by George N. Bertram, Toronto, Can.

Removing Tannin Stains from Teacups

A small portion of hyposulphite of soda mixed with vinegar will make a good cleaner for teacups having tannin stains. This process does not injure the finest china and is inexpensive. The same solution works quite well on clothes that are accidentally stained with tea. They should be washed out and dried quickly after its application in order to make this method most effective.--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.

Woven-Top Stool

The material necessary for this stool is as follows:

4 legs, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 16 in.
4 bottom rails, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 16 in.
4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.
4 diagonal braces, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 6 in.

The legs are mortised so the top rails come level. The upper rails are tenoned on the sides only and beveled at the ends. For the bottom rails, the mortises are made one above the other, the rails being tenoned on all sides. The braces are cut at 45 on each end and glued into place.

In weaving the top, proceed as follows: Use a wet weaver and wrap one layer over the entire top, the strips being placed close together and tightly wound. Start the second layer at right angles to the first by going under one strip, then over three strips, under three, and so on, by threes, until that strip is finished. Start the second by going under two strips, then over three, under three, and so on, as before. The third strip should start by going under three, then over and under three, etc. Start the fourth by going over one, then under three, and over three, as in the preceding; the fifth, start over two, then under and over three, repeatedly. The sixth, and last of the series, begin over three and then continue, by threes, as before. Having finished one series, the remainder of the top should be completed in similar order. Good white shellac makes the best finish for the seat; the stool itself may be finished to suit.--Contributed by Russel Dodsworth, Erie, Pa.

Preserving Shafting from Rust and Corrosion

In a laboratory it was very difficult to keep the line shaft and countershafts bright and free from rust, owing to the fumes and gases issuing from the several fume closets within the same room. The following method was tried, and proved very satisfactory. The shafting was covered with two coats of flat white paint and allowed to dry, after which a coat of white enamel was applied, giving it a clean, glossy, and sanitary appearance. This eliminated all the trouble of cleaning it with emery cloth, and it also made it appear in harmony with the other furnishings of the laboratory.--Contributed by Geo. F. Stark, Norwich, N. Y.

Reed Furniture By Chas. M. Miller

A Reed Basket

Inasmuch as there is a great demand for reed furniture and since good weavers are comparatively few in number, it would be well to learn the process of reed weaving. The weaving operations can be learned much better through the construction of some small article, such as a basket or jardinière cover. The center is the most difficult part of the basket making, and it is best to begin with wood bottoms, as the whole basket can be kept in a much better form due to the stiffness furnished by such a bottom. It is also an approach to the reed furniture which is woven on framework. The objectionable feature of the wood bottoms is the unfinished appearance of the wood edge showing through, but this can be overcome by the use of the roll shown in the illustration.

While the wood bottoms have been used for this class of work for a number of years, the roll is new and is very popular with those who have seen and used it. The roll can be placed in many ways on different-shaped baskets, and other reed pieces, so that it is best to master this piece of work thoroughly before attempting the other, or larger, pieces that will be described later, in other articles.

The description is for a basket 5 in. in diameter and 3 in. high, as shown in the illustration. A disk of wood, 1/4 in. thick and 5 in. in diameter, is required. Basswood makes the best bottom, but pine, or cedar, will do. Cut a board about 6 in. square, and draw diagonal lines on it intersecting at the center, then draw a circle, 5 in. in diameter, as shown in Fig. 1; also another circle, using the same center, 4-3/4 in. in diameter. Set compass points about 5/8 in. apart, and step off spaces on the inner circle to make 24 points. This will have to be tried out more than once, to get the spaces to come out evenly and just have the right number of points. Holes are bored with a 1/8-in. bit, just inside of the inner circle, back of the places marked by the compass points, as shown in Fig. 2. Cut the board on the outside circle with a coping, or turn, saw, to make the circle, as in Fig. 3. Do not saw out the circle before boring the holes, as otherwise the disk might split out in places.

The reeds placed vertically are called spokes, and the horizontal ones are the weavers. For the spokes, what is called a No. 4 reed is used. Do not wet the spokes before putting them through the wood. Allow the ends to project about 5-1/2 in. below the bottom, as shown in Fig. 4. Place the bottom, with the spokes, in water, and soak them thoroughly, especially the part below the bottom. About 15 minutes of soaking will be sufficient to make them pliable enough to bend over at right angles. It will not injure the wood bottom to soak it with the reeds. As shown at A, Figs. 4 and 5, each spoke below the wood bottom is bent, down and back of the two nearest spokes, B and C, then out between the third and fourth spokes, C and D, and so on. The last two spokes, Y and Z, Fig. 6, are forced under the spokes A and B, respectively. In this illustration the spoke Y is shown as it is being inserted under the spoke A. When this operation is completed, the bottom will have the appearance of a fireworks pinwheel.

Continue the bending of the spokes, in the same direction, up and across the thickness of the wood in front of three other spokes and behind the fourth, as shown in Fig. 7. This would not cover the edge of the wood entirely, and, for this reason, other short spokes must be inserted in front of each of the first ones before it is brought up across the edge of the wood. These supplementary spokes should be about 4 in. long. The manner of inserting these spokes before making the bend is shown at G and T, Fig. 6. The double spokes must be pressed down flat, when brought up in place, without riding one on the other. If the ends are too long and interfere with the next pair, they can be cut off a little with a flat chisel, or knife, being careful not to make them too short, or the pieces will not stay in place. If there is still an open space, an extra, short spoke can be inserted to crowd the pieces together and fill up the space.

When the roll is completed, insert three weavers, of No. 3 reed that has been soaked about 15 minutes, placing them between the spokes A and B, B and C, and C and D, as shown in Fig. 8. Pass weaver L in front of the spokes B and C, then back of D and out between D and E. Weaver M is passed in front of C and D, back of E and out in front of E and F. These operations are clearly shown in Fig. 9. The weaver N is placed in front of D and E, back of F and then in front of G and H. At this point the weaver L is used again. The weaver farthest behind each time is brought in front of the two spokes nearest to it, then behind the third and out in front of the next two spokes. Do not try to use weavers longer than 8 ft., which is about half the length of a reed. When a weaver is used up, press it back to the side a little, push in a new reed about 1-1/2 in., and continue the weaving. This is clearly shown in Fig. 10. This weaving is known as the triple weave, which cinches down well and holds tightly. The first round should be carefully worked, so as to get the ends of the roll properly pressed down flat in place. Each throw of the weaver should be well pressed down.

The break-down-tight border is used for the finish at the top. The first operation in making this border is shown in Fig. 11. The spoke A is bent over back of spoke B and out between spokes B and C. The spoke B is bent over back of the spoke C and out between C and D, and so on, until the spoke E is turned down. Then take the end of the spoke A, Fig. 12, and lay it over B, C, D, and E, in front of F, back of G, and out between G and H. The end of spoke F is then brought down, also between G and H, but back of the end of A. The end of B takes a similar leap, passes behind H and out between H and J; then G is brought down behind the end of B, in the same manner as F was brought down back of A. The last four or five spokes are the most difficult to handle, as they must be forced through the first ones to correspond with those already in place. It is best not to pull the ends of A, B, C, and D down too tightly at first, keeping in mind that the last ones must be inserted under the first ones. The last standing spokes are represented by the full and shaded lines.

If the roll illustrated in Figs. 11 and 12 is too difficult, a simple break-down can be used, such as shown in Fig. 13. To make this finish, spoke A is turned back of spoke B, in front of spoke C and back of spoke D, but not out again. Spoke B is bent back of C, in front of D, and back of E. The others are turned down the same way. The manner in which the two last spokes are turned down and inserted is shown by the double dotted lines.

The remainder of the illustrations show the method of forming a roll between the first and second spokes, where only three spokes are turned down before the throwing-across process begins. The first three spokes turned down are shown in Fig. 14, and the throwing over, in Fig. 15. The second beginning is shown in Fig. 16. The finishing of this top is shown in Figs. 17 and 18. The full, heavy lines represent the final insertions, and the reed must be in quite a sharp loop to make the end enter the right place. It is then drawn down and forced in front of the other reed that passes out between the same spokes.

When the basket is dry, the long ends can be cut off close up with a knife, being careful not to cut a weaver. If there are hairy fibers sticking out they can be singed off over a gas, or other, flame that will not smut. If it requires bleaching, brush some chloride of lime, mixed in a little water, over the reeds and set in the sunlight for a short time. It is better to leave the finish a little dark rather than use too much bleaching, as the latter will give an objectionable whitish appearance that looks like a poor job of painting.

In working the reeds, do not leave them in the water longer than necessary, as this will turn them dark. A bleached reed will stand the water much longer than in the natural state. Dampen the reed frequently while weaving it, as the weavers pack down much closer when wet. The dampening process is also required to remedy the drying out caused by whisking the reeds through the air in weaving operations. A great variety of baskets can be made from this form, viz., low, tall, tapering vase forms, bowl shapes, etc., in plain or dark weaves.

Wireless-Lighted Lamp Deception

Window displays of puzzling nature usually draw crowds. A lighted globe lying on its side in full view, yet apparently not connected to any source of electricity, could easily be arranged as a window display, deceiving the closest observer. A mirror, or window glass, backed with some opaque material, should be used for the foundation of the device. For the display lamp, it is best to use a 25 or 40-watt tungsten, as these will lie flatter on the glass than the larger sizes, and the deception will not be as easily discovered. The place where the brass cap of the lamp touches the glass should be marked and a small hole drilled through to the wire connecting the tungsten filament to the plug on the top of the lamp. At any suitable place, a hole should be drilled in the glass plate, no larger than is necessary, to permit two small cotton-covered magnet wires to pass through. One of the wires should be looped, passed through the hole in the cap and hooked onto the bare wire connecting with the plug on top of lamp. The other wire should be fastened to the brass cap, near the drilled hole, after which the lamp may be placed in position and the two wires connected to a source of electricity. If proper care has been taken and no crosses occur, the lamp will light, and if the display is placed in the proper surroundings, it will prove very deceiving. To protect against a fuse blow-out from a short circuit, it is advisable to run another lamp in series with the display lamp, as shown.--Contributed by Clyde W. Epps, Mineola, Tex.

Live Bait Used in Fishing

With the simple device illustrated, no fisherman need worry over running short of bait or even regarding the usual repeated baiting of the hook. A small clear-glass bottle should be procured, and several hooks wired to it about the neck, or at each end, as desired or found best after several trials. After filling the bottle with water a live minnow is placed in it, and the bottle is sealed with a cork, which is notched around the edge to permit water to enter or leave the bottle without losing the bait. If live grasshoppers, or similar bait, is desired the cork can be used unnotched to form a watertight stopper. As illuminated bait for night fishing, several fireflies can be put in the bottle.--Contributed by L. Wahrer, Tiffin, Ohio.

Bookrack

The material necessary for the illustrated bookrack is as follows:

2 end pieces, 5/8 by 5-1/4 by 6 in.
1 shelf 5/8 by 5-1/4 by 13 in.

The shelf is cut rectangular, 5-1/4 in. wide by 14-1/2 in. long. Its two ends should then be provided with tenons 3/8 in. thick by 4-1/4 in. wide, and extending out 1/4 inch.

The end pieces, after being cut to the given dimensions, are marked off and cut out for mortises to fit the shelf tenons.

In assembling the parts, they are glued in place, and clamped with hand screws until the glue has set. Any of the good mission stains, properly applied, will give a finished appearance to the bookrack.

A Paper Gas Pipe

When one fits up an attic or a back room as a workshop, it is seldom that a gas connection is available on about the same level as the workbench so that a Bunsen burner and soldering apparatus may be operated. To install the standard gas pipe, it would be necessary either to alter the chandelier connection or to tear up some of the plaster, the former plan resulting in a rather conspicuous display of pipe and the latter in considerable expense. The following method permits the rolling of a pipe, about the size of a lead pencil, from paper that becomes so stiff that it is almost impossible to crush it between the thumb and fingers. This small inconspicuous pipe may be run directly from the side of the valve on the chandelier to the wall, as shown in the sketch, thence down some corner formed by a door jamb or window frame, which protects it and renders it almost unnoticeable.

A good grade of tough Manila paper should be procured and cut into strips, about 18 in. long and wide enough to build up a tube at least 1/32 in. in diameter. This will require from 4 to 6 in., according to the thickness of the paper. A piece of 1/4-in. round iron or hard wood, 20 in. long, is procured and carefully oiled or greased. Apply a coat of strong fish glue to one of these pieces of paper, omitting a strip along one edge, about 1 in. wide. Using the outspread fingers of each hand, begin with the unglued edge and roll the paper around the wood. As it is impossible to get the paper uniformly tight with the fingers, select a smooth place on the table and then roll the newly formed tube forward by means of a piece of board, as shown in the illustration. On the return stroke lift the board. In this way it is possible to get a tight, smooth tube. Immediately withdraw the core, twisting it slightly in a reverse direction if it tends to stick. Before using the core again, make sure it is free from glue and regrease it. When a sufficient number of tubes have been made and hardened, neatly trim the ends off squarely, and then form an equal number of short tubes, about 2 in. long, by winding a strip of glued paper on a large wire nail until a diameter is reached that will fit snugly into the pipes already made. The joints may then be set up with strong glue and finally wrapped with two thicknesses of paper on the outside. The construction of these joints is shown in the cross section.

The connection with the chandelier can be made by means of a metal tube soldered in at a point where the regular valve will cut off all connection with the paper piping when it is not in use. This metal tube should be coated with thick shellac, and the paper tube slipped over it for 1 in. or more, after which the joint should be given several additional coats on the outside. A small regulating gas cock can be attached to the lower end of the piping, and if this is rigidly fastened to the wall, or casing, the connecting and disconnecting of the rubber tubing will not disturb the piping in any way.--Contributed by John D. Adams.

Rubbing Slats for a Washing Board

In an emergency, and to substitute something for a broken glass rubbing plate on an ordinary washing board, I fitted a series of 3/8-in. dowels horizontally across the board, closely together. This proved to be better than glass or zinc, as fabrics adhered to the wood dowels and caused them to revolve, making a more desirable rubbing surface and accomplishing the work of loosening the dirt in the fabric with far less effort than that necessary on the metal or glass board.--Contributed by H. M. Spamer, Vineland, N. J.

Catching Bugs Attracted by Light

Bugs, moths, and insects attracted by lights on summer evenings can be caught by means of sticky fly paper, suspended as shades around the lamps. Cuts in the shade allow the greater portion of the light to pass through and attract the bugs, which will surely be caught as they travel about the light onto the sticky paper. It is advisable to make two shades at the same time from a double sheet of the sticky paper, pasted, as when bought, with the sticky faces together so that the shades may be cut and handled easier.--Contributed by John J. Kolar, Maywood, Illinois.

* * * * *

Oilcans should be marked to indicate the kind of oil
in them.

Needle Box for Talking Machines

An empty cigarette box can be easily changed to a useful container for talking-machine needles, as shown in the sketch. Take a fairly heavy card, trim it to the same length as the box, then bend and crease it, as shown at A, and glue the short, upright side to the inside of the box. Cut another card to the shape B, so that the depth C equals the inside depth of the box, and the side D is as long as its width. The side E should equal the inclined length of the card A, and is glued upon it when B is in position. The three compartments may be suitably labeled as indicated.--Contributed by V. A. Rettich, New York, N. Y.

Trick of Taking Dollar Bill from Apple

A rather pleasing, yet puzzling, deception is to pass a dollar bill into the interior of an examined lemon or apple. This can be accomplished in several ways, either mechanically or purely by sleight of hand. The mechanical method, of course, is the easier and really just as effective. In performing, a plate with three apples is first exhibited, and the audience is given choice of any one for use in the experiment. The selected one is tossed out for examination and then returned to the performer, who places it in full view of the spectators while he makes the dollar bill vanish. Taking the knife he cuts the apple into two pieces, requesting the audience to select one of them. Squeezing this piece he extracts the dollar bill therefrom. The entire secret is in the unsuspected article--the table knife.

The knife is prepared by boring out the wooden handle to make it hollow. Enough space must be made to hold a dollar bill. The knife lies on the plate with the fruit, the open end facing the performer. After the bill has been made to vanish and the examined apple returned to the entertainer, he takes it and cuts it in half. One of the halves is chosen, the performer impaling it on the end of the knife blade and holding it out to view. While still holding the knife he turns the blade downward and grasps the half apple and crushes it with a slight pass toward the knife-handle end where the bill is grasped along with the apple, which makes a perfect illusion of taking the bill out of the apple.

As to the disappearance of the dollar bill, there are many ways in which this may be accomplished. Perhaps the method requiring the least practice is to place the bill in the trousers pocket, and then show the audience that the latter is empty. This can be done by rolling the bill to small compass, and pushing it into the extreme upper corner of the pocket where it will remain undetected while the pocket is pulled out for inspection. Other combinations can be arranged with the use of the knife, which is simple to make and very inexpensive.

Guide for Making Buttonholes

It is almost impossible to make a perfect buttonhole in the ordinary manner by hand without a guide. The illustration shows a very simple guide that can be easily made by anyone. Procure two pieces of tin, or sheet brass, cut them as shown, and drill holes in them large enough for a needle, so that it will be easy to fasten them to the cloth with basting thread. Cut the buttonhole slot, then punch a hole at the end with an ordinary belt punch. Such a punch can be purchased from a local hardware dealer in any size. In making the buttonhole stitch, keep the needle close against the metal edge of the guide, as shown.--Contributed by A. L. Kerbaugh, Allentown, Pa.

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An easy way to put varnish in the grooves of a tennis
racket is to use a medicine dropper.

A Child's Playhouse

The child's playhouse is an expensive luxury, if it is purchased ready to set up, but by following the instructions given herewith a large and inexpensive one may be constructed.

Procure about 100 ft. of 1-3/4 by 1-1/2-in. boards, and saw out pieces, as shown. With the use of iron brackets instead of nails, it will be found much easier to construct than if the corners are mortised and nailed or glued. The frame will also be much stronger.

When the frame is completed, burlap is tacked on to make the covering. The burlap can be purchased cheaply, and the best color to use is either green, red or brown. This material should be fastened on the different sections before they are hinged together. To prevent the burlap from unraveling, turn the edges under before tacking them down.

A piece of wire screen is used for the door. An old piece will do, if it is well coated with black or dark-green paint. It is then tacked on the inside of the door. Fasten the different parts together with the hinges. The hinges are fastened on the inside of the side wings, and on the outside of the two front pieces. With the hinges placed in this manner, the house can be folded into a small space.

For the one built by the writer, green burlap was used, and by trimming the door and window frames along the edges with white paint a very pretty effect was produced.

A small awning was made over the window, which improved the appearance very much. Roller shades on the door and window and an electric door bell completed a very neat and practical playhouse.

Removing Basketball from Closed-Bottom Receptacle

The closed-bottom basket used in the game of basketball is so high that it is difficult to remove the ball after a goal is made. Generally a long stick is used for this purpose, but I desired to have a better way, and the device shown in the illustration was the outcome. A light iron rod was hinged to the edge of the basket and bent to its inner shape, the lower end resting at about the center of the basket. A rope was attached to the lower end and run up and over a sheave pulley attached to the basket support, then down so it could be easily grasped. When a goal is made, it is only necessary to give a pull on the rope for throwing the ball out of the basket.--Contributed by Annie B. Currine, San Diego, Cal.

Testing Dry Batteries

For testing dry batteries or any low-voltage current, take an ordinary thermometer and wind around the mercury bulb enough wire to make about 10 ohms resistance. This will make a good tester. A dry cell of about 2 volts attached to the ends of the wire should generate enough heat to expand the mercury about four degrees in one-half minute.

This tester is not as fast as a voltmeter, nor has it as wide a range, but it is reasonably accurate, and by using a battery of known voltage, the winding can be increased or diminished to allow the mercury to expand as many degrees as desired per volt.--Contributed by E. H. Kimbrough, Bartlett, Kan.

A Wall-Paper Cleaner

To 1 qt. of flour add about 2 oz. of 90-per-cent ammonia and enough lukewarm water to make a dough. Wipe the paper with this preparation while turning and kneading it as in making dough. This will take up the dirt and a clean side is always presented to the paper.--Contributed by F. C. Myer, Tacoma, Wash.

A Trunk Mystery

Doubtless every person has seen the trunk mystery, the effect of which is as follows: A trunk, mounted upon four legs, is brought out on the stage and proven to be empty by turning it all the way around to show that there is nothing on the back, whereupon pieces of plate glass are placed along the back, sides, and front, the trunk is closed and given a swift turn and then opened, when to the amazement of all, a lady steps out appearing to come from nowhere. The secret of this trick is very simple, and the trunk can be made up very cheaply.

In the back of the trunk there is a movable panel with a shelf exactly the same size as the panel attached to its bottom, forming a right angle, the corner of which is hinged to the bottom of the trunk. The back panel can be turned in until it rests on the bottom of the trunk and, when this is done, the shelf part rises and takes its place, making the back of the trunk appear solid.

When the trunk is brought out upon the stage, the assistant is crouching on the shelf. The trunk can then be shown empty. This is all very simple until the trunk is turned around when it takes skill not to give the trick away. As soon as the performer starts to turn the trunk around, the assistant shifts her weight on the panel, thus causing it to fall inward and bring the shelf up to make the back appear solid. The assistant is now in the trunk, and the back can be shown clear of any apparatus. When the trunk is turned to the front again, the lady repeats the previous operation in the opposite direction, thus bringing her body to the back of the trunk again.

To make the trick appear more difficult, glass plates are made to insert in the ends, front and back of the trunk. In making the trunk, have the back the same size as the bottom. Fit the piece of glass for the back into a light frame, similar to a window frame. This frame is hinged to the bottom of the trunk and is 1/2 in. smaller all around than the back of the trunk, so that the two pieces of glass can be put in the ends and also allow the back frame and glass to fall flush in the bottom of the trunk. A few rubber bumpers are fastened in the bottom of the trunk to catch the glass without noise as it falls. The best way to work this is for the performer to let the frame down with his right hand while he is closing up the front with his left.

As soon as the trunk is closed, the assistant again shifts her weight to cause the panel to fall in and then the trunk can be turned to show the back, or whirled around and turned to the front again, then opened up, whereupon the assistant steps out, bows to the audience, and leaves the stage.

How to Make a Candy-Floss Machine

Every person is familiar with candy floss, made at stands on fair grounds, or carnivals, in an expensive whirling machine. It is not necessary to wait for a fair or a carnival to have a bunch of candy floss, as it can be made at home much quicker than making taffy candy.

The device for making the candy floss consists of ordinary things that can be had in any home, and usually a boy has a battery motor of some kind that will furnish the power.

Procure a tin pan, the shape of an ordinary dish pan and of medium size; cut a hole about one-half the diameter of the pan in the bottom and solder in a conical-shaped piece similar to a cake pan, allowing it to extend up inside about half the height of the pan. Fasten supports to the pan so that a Bunsen burner can be set under it where the flame will pass through the conical center opening.

Mount a small battery motor with its shaft vertical, pulley end up, and centering the conical hole, on a base, which supports the pan. Procure a can cover, similar to that used on coffee cans, and fasten it with solder to the pulley on the motor shaft, being careful to locate it centrally so that it will run smoothly.

Close to the bottom and in the rim of the can cover, make a number of small holes with a prickpunch, or other sharp-pointed tool. Wire the motor to the battery, and the candy-floss machine is ready for use.

Light the burner, start the motor, and pour a little granulated sugar in the revolving can cover. As the sugar is melted, it will be spun out in floss form through the small holes into the pan receiver.--Contributed by Herbert Hahn, Chicago, Ill.

Enlarging Pictures

A very simple and sufficiently accurate way of enlarging pictures by means of a pencil holder and elastic is shown in the illustration. The picture to be enlarged is fastened to a table top or drawing board, and the paper on which it is to be drawn is placed directly below it. A small brad or tack is driven into the board at A, the location depending on the desired size of the enlarged picture, and the elastic is attached to it. The pencil holder B is fastened to the other end of the elastic over the drawing paper. A pointer, or a knot, is placed in the elastic at C. The pencil holder consists of a stick of wood turned into a handle with a hole bored centrally for a pencil.

In use, the pencil is moved over the drawing paper while the knot or pointer is watched, to keep it following the lines of the original drawing. The stretch of the elastic is sufficient to enlarge the parts equally, as well vertically as horizontally.--Contributed by Wm. Weitzsacker, Buffalo, N. Y.

Distance Chart for Wireless Stations

The amateur wireless telegrapher may be troubled more or less regarding distances from other stations. The difficulty can be overcome by following a plan similar to that of a parcel-post map. A map should be selected covering the desired territory. With the home station as center, circles should be drawn to diameters corresponding in length to the scale used on the map. By measuring the distance other stations may be from any of these circles, their cross-country distance from the home station can be determined at a glance.--Contributed by E. L. Hartlett, Wausau, Wis.

A Carrier for Fishhooks

Hooks that are attached to gut or short strings are difficult to carry and to keep in good shape for use on a line. I made a carrier that overcame this trouble, from a block of wood. The block is 1/2 in. in thickness with brads driven into one end, for engaging the loops on the gut or string, while the hook is caught on the opposite end, the block being just long enough for the short line. The hooks will be held securely, and the block can be carried in the pocket.--Contributed by Victor E. Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.

A Substitute for a Pen

Recently I was hard pressed for a pen, and as none could be found and the hour was late it was necessary to find a substitute. I fashioned a pen from a piece of boxwood, and was agreeably surprised at the excellent results obtained with it. The wood was sharpened like a lead pencil at one end, and a groove was cut out of the tapered part to hold the ink.--Contributed by Richard F. Pohle, Lynn, Massachusetts.

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A very convenient method of keeping shipping tags at
hand is to slip them on a desk spindle.

A Bucket-Ball Game

This is a new indoor game which follows out in principle the regular baseball play. It is an exciting and interesting pastime, and while a certain amount of skill is required to score runs, a person who cannot play the regular game can score as many runs, and as often, as the best players in the national leagues.

Anyone that is just a little handy with tools can make the necessary parts for this game. The tools required are a hammer and a saw, and the materials consist of some finishing nails; three strips of wood, 6 ft. long, 2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; two strips, 18 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; four strips, 24 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; two strips, 18 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; two blocks, 4 in. square, and 1 in. thick, and four wood buckets.

A frame is built up as shown, 6 ft. long, 18 in. wide, and 24 in. high, without a back. One of the long pieces is fastened to the bottoms of the buckets as shown, spacing the latter equally on the length of the piece. This piece is then set in notches cut in the blocks of wood at an angle of 45. These blocks are fastened to the upper crosspieces at the ends of the frame. The upper part of the buckets rest on the upper front piece of the frame.

The rules for playing the game are as follows: Three baseballs are used. The players stand about 10 ft. distant and in front of the buckets. Each player, or side, is only permitted to throw three balls an inning, irrespective of the number of runs scored. Any kind of delivery is permitted, but an underhand throw will be found most successful. The buckets are numbered from 1 to 4, and represent, respectively, one, two, and three-base hits, and home runs. The one in which the ball stays designates the run.

Plays are figured as in a regular ball game. For instance, if a ball should stay in bucket No. 2 and the next in bucket No. 3, the first man would be forced home, counting one run, and leaving one man on third base.