Chapter XII: Part IV: Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait (5)

A 7/8-in. piece of wood was cut about 6 in. long by 2 in. wide and a recess made at one end for the socket, as shown. A 1/8-in. hole was drilled in the center, about 2 in. from one end, and another, large enough to receive the projection from a pull socket, about 2 in. from the other end, or the end to be used as the bottom of the block. A clamp made of spring brass, as shown, was screwed securely to the board, to clamp the socket firmly. A wire was passed through the small hole and stretched across the room from the door at a height to bring the light about 6 ft. from the floor. Then the socket was clamped to the strip with the chain passed through the hole cut for it. The cord attached to the chain was run to the door casing, passed through a screweye and weighted with a nut or some light object, to keep it taut. To light the lamp or put it out only a pull on the string was necessary.

The light can be slid along on the wire from one end of the room to the other, or can be detached from the strip when desired by unhooking the cord from the chain and taking the socket from the clamp. If more desirable, the block can be fastened permanently to some object instead of being on the wire.--Contributed by L. M. Eifel, Chicago.

Projecting Protractor Readings

A simple and efficient means of projecting protractor readings to a larger size is shown in Fig. 1. One point of the compass is placed at the center of the protractor and an elastic band is looped between the points. Then the points are spread to the radius desired, and the protractor is read where the elastic band crosses its scale. A light band should be used, and looped as shown in Fig. 2. In this way a circle of any size may be quickly divided, if a pencil mark is made each time the band comes over the proper figure.--Contributed by Thos. L. Parker, Wibaux, Mont.

Removing Grease from Paint

When removing grease from paint by using ordinary cleaners, the paint is liable to come off in the washing. A good and cheaply applied method is to rub the painted surface with a paste of ordinary whiting. This is allowed to dry and when it is rubbed off with a cloth the dirt and grease is taken away with it. The whiting is cheap and can be purchased at any drug store.

A Door Stop

A very good door stop can be easily made of a piece of metal as shown in the sketch. The metal is bent and fastened with screws to the wall against which the door swings. The extending end fits under the door knob and prevents it from striking the wall.--Contributed by C. R. Poole, Los Angeles, California.

Stretching a Curtain without a Frame

A good way to avoid using the ordinary four-pole curtain stretcher is to make use of the following method. Take the lace curtain and fold it once lengthwise; then pin it up on a tightly stretched line with a large number of clothespins, and slip a clean pole between the two sides to keep it taut. This method not only stretches the curtain satisfactorily, but saves considerable time otherwise required in pinning the curtain to the four-sided frame.--Contributed by H. Wynning, Chicago, Ill.

Welding Small Resistance-Wire Connections

In making connections, especially in electrical heating devices subject to high temperatures, it is out of the question to use solder, since the temperature reached in the device would cause the solder to melt and run out. A convenient arrangement for welding the connections of flatirons, or any other fine wires, is shown in the illustration. The ends of the wires to be welded are twisted together, and the weld is completed by forming an arc, one electrode of which is the twisted connection and the other a piece of carbon. The resistance of the heating unit in the iron is sufficient to limit the amount of the current flow so that a short circuit does not result.--Contributed by G. Irving Davis, Albany, N. Y.

Bench with Folding Seats

To provide a bench with seats, or shelves, which cannot easily be taken away unless the table is brought along, hinged brackets are attached to stationary crosspieces, which are fastened on the extended end braces of the table. When in use, the brackets are turned down, thereby providing a rigid support for anything that may be put on them. If it is desirable to have the brackets out of the way, as when carrying the bench, it is only necessary to fold them up.--Contributed by J. M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Rim of Wire Wastebasket Wrapped with Felt

In offices where wire wastebaskets are used, the finish of the desks is often marred by the top rim of the baskets rubbing against them. This can be overcome by wrapping strips of felt around the rim to form a buffer.--Contributed by Miss F. D. Schweiger, Kansas City, Mo.

A Homemade Roller Coaster By J. H. Sanford

The popular roller coaster that furnishes untold amusement for the multitudes that patronize amusement parks during the summer can be easily duplicated in a smaller way on a vacant lot or back yard for the children of the home; or the boys of a neighborhood could contribute to a fund and construct quite an elaborate affair, on the same lines as described, for the combined use of the owners. The one described was built with a track, 90 ft. long, 5 ft. high at one end and 3 ft. at the other, the track between being placed on the ground. In coasting from the high end to the low one, the coaster will run up on the incline, then drift back to within 24 ft. of the starting end. The car was built to seat four children or two adults. The cost of all the materials for building this roller coaster did not exceed $10.

The track is of simple construction and requires but little description. It is necessary to have it straight and nailed firmly to the crossties on the ground and to the trestles where it is elevated. The ties and trestles are placed about 6 ft. apart. The two trestles for the starting platform should be set so that there is a slant to the track of about 6 in. for starting the car without pushing it. The car can be carried back for starting by adults, but for children a small rope can be used over the platform to draw it back on the track, or a small windlass may be arranged for the purpose.

The main frame of the car is 3 ft. long and about 13 in. wide, firmly fastened at the corners. The axles for the wheels are machine steel, 19 in. long, turned up on the ends and threaded in the manner of a bicycle axle to fit parts of bicycle hubs, attached to the main frame as shown at A. The wheels are solid, 4 in. in diameter and 1 in. thick, and are set on the bicycle cone of the ball cup, after they are properly adjusted, and securely fastened between washers with a nut on the end of the axle. Guide wheels, B, are placed on the sides in the manner shown. These wheels are ordinary truck casters, not the revolving kind, 2 in. in diameter.

About 1/2-in. clearance should be provided between the guide wheels B and the guard rail C, on the track. When the car is made in this manner it runs close to the track and there is no place where a child can get a foot or hand injured under or at the sides of the car. The one described has been used by all the children, large and small, for a year without accident.

Door-Bell Alarm

A simple door-bell alarm for informing one when the door of a shop or dwelling is opened is shown in the accompanying sketch. It consists of a piece of spring brass, A, bent into a circle in the center so that it may be clamped on the doorknob bar by means of a small bolt or screw. The two ends of this piece should be separated as shown and a second piece, B, mounted on the door so that its outwardly projecting end is between the ends of the piece A. One terminal of an ordinary vibrating bell circuit is then connected under the head of the clamp screw, and the other terminal under one of the screws holding the piece B in place on the door. It is now obvious that the bell circuit will be completed and the alarm sounded when the knob is turned. Make sure that the piece A is bent so that the circuit is completed before the latch has moved a sufficient amount to allow the door to open.

The circuit leading to and from the switch may be completed through the hinges of the door, but it would be better to use small coil springs as shown. There would then be no likelihood of the circuit being open at any time, which might occur if the hinges were used.

* * * * *

Discolored coffee and teapots may be restored to their
original brightness by boiling them a few minutes in
a solution of borax water.

A Playground Ferris Wheel

The whole wheel is carried on two uprights, each 3 by 4 in., by 10 ft. long. In the upper ends of these pieces, A, a half circle is cut out to receive the main shaft B. The end of the uprights are sunk 3 ft. into the earth and about 4 ft. apart, then braced as shown. They are further braced by wires attached to rings which are secured with staples near the top. The bearings should each have a cap to keep the shaft in place. These can be made of blocks of wood with a semicircle cut out, the blocks being nailed over the shaft, while it is in place, the nails entering the ends of the uprights.

The main shaft C is made of a 2-1/2-in. square piece of good material, 4 ft. long. The ends are made round to serve as bearings, and the square part is fitted with the spokes or car carriers. These consist of 4 pieces, each 1 in. thick, 4 in. wide and 13 ft. long. In the center of each piece cut a notch one-half the thickness so that when each pair of pieces is crossed they will fit together with the surfaces smooth, as shown at D. A square hole is cut through the pieces as shown to fit on the square part of the main axle. While it is not shown in the illustration, it is best to strengthen this joint with another piece of wood, cut to fit on the axle and securely attached to the spokes.

The cars or carriers are made of two sugar barrels cut in half. The hoops are then securely nailed, both inside and outside; a block of wood, E, securely attached to the half barrel on the outside, and another block on the inside opposite the outside block. Holes are bored 2-1/2 ft. from the ends of the spokes and a bolt run through them and through the blocks on the edges of the half barrels. The extending ends of the spokes are used to propel the wheel. Four children can ride in the wheel at one time.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

A Merry-Go-Round Pole

An inexpensive merry-go-round can be made of a single pole set in the ground where there is sufficient vacant space for the turning of the ropes. The pole may be of gas pipe or wood, long enough to extend about 12 ft. above the ground. An iron wheel is attached on the upper end so that it will revolve easily on an axle, which may be an iron pin driven into the post. A few iron washers placed on the pin under the wheel will reduce the friction.

Ropes of varying lengths are tied to the rim of the wheel. The rider takes hold of a rope and runs around the pole to start the wheel in motion, then he swings clear of the ground. Streamers of different colors and flowers for special occasions may be attached to make a pretty display.--Contributed by J. Bert Mitchell, Wichita, Kans.

A Theatrical Night Scene with the Appearance of Fireflies

Use small shining Christmas-tree balls, about the size of a hickory nut, strung on strong black linen threads. The thread is put loosely over a hook at the back of the stage among the evergreens that are used for the background. The ends of the threads are brought, like a pair of reins, to the front of the stage, diagonally, and there manipulated by some one in a wing near the front, standing high enough to prevent the threads from touching the heads of the actors. These bright little particles darting back and forth among the trees appear very lifelike, and with the addition of a crescent moon just peeping through the trees, the likeness to a summer night is quite striking.

The moon effect is made by using a piece of dark cardboard, about 2 ft. square, covered thickly with small green boughs, and by cutting a crescent-shaped opening in the center, covering it with yellow tissue paper. This cardboard is placed well back in the trees and a lantern hung behind it.--Contributed by Miss S. E. Jocelyn, New Haven, Conn.

Hulling Walnuts

Procure a barrel that is water-tight and mount it on a shaft so that it runs between standards like a barrel churn. Fill the barrel about half full of walnuts, cover them with water and throw in a small quantity of gravel as grinding material. Close the opening tightly and turn the barrel for about 20 minutes. The walnuts will come out clean and smooth as glass.--Contributed by Arthur Seufert, The Dalles, Oregon.

Stick for Lowering Top Sash of a Window

To make it easy to raise and lower the upper sash of a bathroom window which is behind the bathtub I devised the following: Procuring two screweyes I opened one sufficiently to slip it into the other as shown at A. Then one was screwed into the top rail of the sash and the other into the end of a light stick a little longer than the length of upper sash.

The device is left on the window permanently and affords a ready means of handling the sash without stepping into the bathtub, which would otherwise be necessary.--Contributed by W. E. Morey, Chicago.

An Adjustable Hacksaw Frame

The frame is constructed of cold-rolled steel, 1/4 in. in diameter and 17-1/2 in. long, bent into the shape shown and then cut in two parts at A. Starting at a point about 5/16 in. from the ends made by the cut, drill 1/8-in. holes, then space three other holes 1 in. between centers and drill them 1/8 in. in diameter.

A piece of steel tubing, 1/4 in. in inside diameter and 6-3/4 in. long, is notched on the ends to receive the pins B and C. Slots are cut in the ends D and E, to admit the blade of a saw, and half-round notches filed on the outside surface for holding pins used in the hole of the saw blade. The spring of the steel will be sufficient to keep the saw blade in place. The 1/8-in. holes in the frame will permit adjustment for different lengths of blades.--Contributed by Clarence B. Hanson, Fitchburg, Mass.

A Bedroom Cabinet

The cabinet shown in the illustration can be made an ornament with a little care in workmanship and a choice selection of materials. The cabinet may be either fastened to the head or foot of the bed, facing in either of two directions.

The size of the cabinet will depend on the choice of the maker, and if the bed is brass, the wood can be finished natural and fitted with brass bands for brackets and holding clips.--Contributed by W. E. Crane, Cleveland, O.

A Dull Black for Cameras

Such parts of a camera that are apt to reflect light must be covered with a dull black. A mixture for this purpose is made of lampblack, about a teaspoonful, and enough gold size to make a paste as thick as putty. Add about twice the volume of turpentine and apply to the parts with a camel's-hair brush.

As the turpentine fumes are detrimental to the sensitive plate, the camera should be left open until these fumes have entirely disappeared.

A Door Fastener

Sometimes it is necessary to fasten a door in a manner to prevent children from opening it, yet so that it is easily opened from either side. This can be done by putting a screw or curtain hook on the inside of the door frame and using a piece of cord long enough to loop over both hooks. A person coming in or out can remove the loop from either side.--Contributed by John A. Cohalan, Philadelphia, Pa.

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A floor wax can be made by melting 1 lb. of yellow
beeswax in 1/2 pt. of hot, raw linseed oil; then
adding 1 pt. of turpentine.

Umbrella Used as a Flower Trellis

Procure a discarded umbrella and remove the cloth, leaving only the steel frame. Join the ends of the ribs by running a fine wire through the tip of each rib and giving it one turn around to hold them at equal distances apart. The handle is then inserted in the ground and some climbing vine planted beneath it. The plant will climb all over the steel frame and make a very attractive lawn piece.--Contributed by John F. Campbell, N. Somerville, Massachusetts.

Combined Shade and Awning

An ordinary window shade makes a good awning as well as a shade, if it is attached to the outside of the window with the device shown in the illustration. The shade and spring roller are put into a box for protection from the weather and the box is fastened in the window casing at the top. A narrow slit on the under side of the box permits the shade to be drawn out. The stick at the end is removed and a U-shaped wire inserted in the hem in its stead. The wire is bent so the ends may be inserted in holes in the window casing. As the shade is drawn out, it is extended outward by the wire in the position of an awning.--Contributed by Arthur Kesl, Chicago, Ill.

Vaulting-Pole Attachments

Some means must be provided on vaulting-pole standards to allow for the free release of the pole should the vaulter strike it in going over. One of the simplest of the many devices that can be used for this purpose is shown in Fig. 1. It is made of heavy wire, bent and slipped over the standard as shown in Fig. 2. The projection on the inside of the link is used similar to the tongue of a buckle in adjusting the height of the pole on the standards.

Each standard has a series of holes on its front side. These holes may be numbered for convenience. The pole in place is shown in Fig. 3.--Contributed by John Dunlap, Craghead, Tollcross, England.

Separating Drinking Glasses

When two thin glasses are put one into the other they often become stuck and cannot be removed. To separate them with ease, set the lower glass in warm (not hot) water and pour cold water in the upper one. The expansion of the lower and the contraction of the upper will make release an easy matter.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

* * * * *

Bronze striping, when thoroughly dry, should be
covered with a thin coat of white shellac to keep it
from tarnishing.

A Magic String

Procure a few pieces of cotton string, each about 1-1/2 ft. long, and fill them well with soap. Prepare a brine by dissolving three tablespoonfuls of salt in a cup of water. Place the strings in the brine and allow them to soak for two hours, or longer. It is necessary that they be thoroughly saturated with the brine.

When taken out of the brine and thoroughly dried, suspend one of them from a nail on a ledge, and hang a finger ring on its lower end. Apply a lighted match to the string and allow it to burn. The ring will not fall, but will hang by the ash.--Contributed by C. Frank Carber, Dorchester, Mass.

Edging Flower Beds

To improve the appearance of a flower bed, it must be edged evenly and quite often. As this became a tiresome task, I constructed an edger, as shown in the sketch. It consists of a wheel on a 4-ft. length of material, 2 by 4 in. in size, made tapering and having a cross handle, 18 in. long, attached to its end. The wheel is 8 in. in diameter, and the cutter is attached, as shown, across the center of the wheel axle, to make the edger turn easily on curves and corners. The cutter is 12 in. long and turned under 1-1/2 in. It is pushed along in the same manner as a garden cultivator.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Can.

An Electric Stirring Machine

Desiring a stirring machine for mixing photographic chemicals, I set about to design the one shown in the illustration. The base and upright are made of pine, 1 in. thick, the former 8 in. wide and 10 in. long, the latter 8 in. wide and 16 in. long. A 3/8 in. slot, 12 in. long, is cut in the center of the upright, and two pieces of sheet metal or tin, 2 in. wide and 12 in. long, bent at right angles along the center of their length, are placed at equal distances, on each side of the slot, and fastened with screws. The distance between these pieces depends on the motor used, as its base should fit snugly between them.

A small battery motor is purchased, and its shaft is removed and replaced with one measuring 10 in. in length. To the end of the shaft is soldered a piece of wire, bent as shown in the sketch. A bolt is attached to the center of the motor base, so that its threaded end will pass through the slot in the upright, where it is held with a wing nut. The battery cells may be placed on the back of the upright and a small switch mounted at the top and in front.--Contributed by Ray F. Yates, Niagara Falls, N. Y.

A Clothes Rack

The rack is constructed of hard wood throughout, and as each piece is made, it should be sandpapered and varnished or otherwise finished. The plan view is shown in Fig. 1; the construction of an arm, in Fig. 2; and the pin, in Fig. 3.

The base is 7/8 in. thick and of the dimensions shown in Fig. 4. The projection on each side, measuring 6-1/2 in. long and 1 in. wide, is made separately and glued to the main part after dressing and beveling the edges.

The shelf consists of material 2 in. thick and made in a semicircular form on a radius of 5-3/4 in. On this arc, lay off chords, as shown in Fig. 1; the first ones on each side being one-half the length of the others. Carefully square up the edges for appearance. To lay off the post holes, scribe an arc of a circle on a 4-7/8-in. radius. Start at the edge on this arc and lay off eight chords of equal lengths, and bore 1/2-in. holes on the marks.

The posts are turned up, as shown by the detail, Fig. 3. This will require seven posts and two half posts. The half posts are secured to the base with small brads. The round part at the end is turned slightly tapering, so as to make a tight fit in the hole of the shelf. After stringing the posts on a piece of brass wire, 1/8 in. in diameter, and bending it in the proper shape, the posts are glued in the holes.

A T-shaped slot with a long top and a short leg is cut out with a scroll saw in one end of each arm. Make sure to have each slot exactly 1/2 in. from the upper side of each arm. All edges should be well rounded to prevent tearing of the clothes.

Make a semicircular platform for the arms to bear upon when extended. This may be either half of a turned disk or built up in the three segments, each fastened with screws to the base. If the brass wire is exactly 1 in. from the shelf and the thickness of the wood between the T-slot and the upper edge of the arm 1/2 in., the thickness of the platform should be slightly under 1/2 in. to make the arms rest horizontally when they are extended.

The shelf is fastened to the base with three or four 2-in. screws, and the ends of the brass wire are run through holes in the base and clinched on the back side. The rack may be fastened in place on the kitchen wall with two large wood screws, or, if the wall is brick, with expansion bolts. The fastening in either case must be secure to hold the heavy weight of wet clothes.--Contributed by D. A. Price, Wilmington, Del.

How to Make a Pair of Foot Boats

On ponds or small lakes not deep enough for a boat one can use the foot boats, as illustrated, for walking on the water. The boats are made of white wood, known as basswood, as this wood is easily bent when steamed, and the curved part should be shaped neatly.

Two sides are cut out, as shown, and the boards are nailed or, better still, screwed to them. Each straight part may consist of one piece, in which case there will be no joints to make waterproof, but if boards of sufficient size cannot be had, pieces can be used. In this instance the edges should be planed smooth, so that a good joint may be had, which can be made watertight with white lead.

It is best to make the bottom of one piece if possible, at least for the length of the curve. The wood is thoroughly steamed, then fastened in place on the curved part.

A strap of suitable length is fastened on the top for the toe, so that the boats can be controlled with the feet.

To propel the boats along easily, a web or wing should be attached to the under side, so that it will catch the water on the back thrust while it will fold up when the boat is slid forward.--Contributed by Waldo Saul, Lexington, Mass.

A Green-Corn Holder

Neat and attractive green-corn holders for table use can be made of small-sized glass drawer knobs, having a bolt 1 in. in length. The bolt head is cut off with a hacksaw, and its body is filed to make four sides running to a taper, leaving enough threads to secure it in the knob. The threads are smeared with white lead, then it is screwed into the knob and sufficient time allowed for the lead to set before using it.

A pair of knobs are required for each ear of corn served. The square bolt end will hold the ear securely while the kernels are eaten from the cob.--Contributed by Victor Labadie, Dallas, Texas.

Inflating Toy Balloons

The inflation of rubber balloons may be accomplished with manufactured gas by using the simple pipe arrangement shown in the sketch. The connection A is for the gas hose, which is similar to those used for a table lamp. The gas bag B is a football or punching bag connected to the pipe as shown. This receives the gas as it is let in by the valve A. The toy balloon C is connected to the pipe in the same manner and the valve D used to regulate the flow of gas. The gas is easily pressed out of the ball into the balloon.

As hydrogen gas is much better than the manufactured gas, it is best to use and can be put in the balloon in the same manner.

Electric-Light Mystery

A novel attraction for a window display can be made of a piece of plate glass neatly mounted on a wood base, and an electric light which is placed on the top edge and may be lighted apparently without any wire connections.

The method of concealing the connections is to paint the edges of the glass green, then, before the paint is quite dry, lay on a thin strip of copper, making the connections at the base on both sides, and to the lamp in the same manner. Another coat of paint is applied to cover the strip. The color should be an imitation of the greenish tint of glass edges. Any desired lettering can be put on the glass.--Contributed by O. Simonson, Brooklyn, N. Y.

An Oar Holder

Persons rowing boats, particularly beginners, find that the oars will slip out of the oarlocks, turn or fall into the water. This may be avoided by turning a screweye of sufficient size to prevent binding on the lock into the oar and placing it over the lock as shown at A, so that the pull will be against the metal. The oars will never slip or jump out, will always be in the right position, and it is not necessary to pull them into the boat to prevent loss when not rowing. The locks will not wear the oars, as the pull is on the metal eye. Place the eye so it will have a horizontal position on the side of the oar when the blade is in its right position.

Cooking Food in Paper

A flat piece of paper is much more convenient to use than a paper sack in cooking, as it can be better fitted to the size of the article to be cooked. Wrap the article as a grocer wraps sugar, folding and refolding the two edges together until the package is of the proper size, then fasten with clips and proceed to close the ends in the same way. This avoids all pasted seams and makes the package airtight.--Contributed by J. J. A. Parker, Metamora, O.

Washing Photograph Prints

Photographic prints may be washed in a stationary washbowl with just as good results as if washed in a high-priced wash box, by cutting off the upper end of the rubber nipple on a bent glass medicine dropper and placing it on the faucet as shown in the illustration. This arrangement causes the water to whirl around in the bowl, which keeps the prints in constant motion, thus insuring a thorough washing.--Contributed by L. O. D. Sturgess, Arlington, Oregon.

Combination Lock for a Drawer

The principal parts of the combination lock are the five disks shown in Fig. 1. These are best made of sheet brass, about 1/16 in. thick and 1-1/2 in. in diameter. The pins for turning the disks are each made a driving fit for a hole drilled through the metal at a point 15/32 in. from the center. Notches are cut in the disks C, D and E, Fig. 1, to receive the latch end, and the disk B is made like a cam, its use being to raise the latch into its keeper when the handle is turned backward. The disk A is without a notch and has only a pin for turning the other disks.

The disks are mounted on the inside of the drawer front in a U-shaped piece of metal, F, Fig. 2, which carries a 1/4-in. pin, G, as their bearing. The disks are placed on this pin with rubber washers, H, J, K, L and M, between them. These serve the purpose of preventing the disks from turning too freely. The disk A is fastened tightly to the end of the rod N, which is 1/4 in. in diameter. The outer end of this rod is fitted with a handle or turning head as desired. That shown at O is made of two pieces of wood screwed together, with a pointer, P, placed between them. A washer, R, is placed between the drawer end and the handle to take up any looseness and to allow the free turning of the rod.

A dial, S, is made of paper and the division marks and numbers placed upon it. The latch T is fitted in a U-shaped piece of metal, U, which is fastened to the inside of the drawer end where its heel will rest on the edges of the disks. When the right combination is made by turning the handle first one way and then the other, the latch will drop into the notches of the disks as they will be all in one place.

When the drawer is to be locked, turn the handle back from the last turn made for the combination and the latch will be driven upward into its keeper and the notches scattered so that the latch will not drop until the combination is again set.

The numbers for the combination can be found after the disks are in place and by turning the handle until the notch comes up to the place for the heel of the latch. The number beneath the pointer is noted; then the next turned up in a like manner, all being done while the drawer is open and the disks in plain sight. The combination can be changed only by changing the location of the pins in the disks.--Contributed by C. B. Hanson, Fitchburg, Massachusetts.

How to Start Small Machine Screws

Small machine screws are sometimes very difficult to start, especially when used in parts of a machine that cannot be easily reached with the fingers. A good way to start them is by means of a piece of fine wire wound snugly around the screw under its head. They can be placed and started by means of the wire and when the first threads have caught the screw it can be held by the screwdriver while the wire is withdrawn.--Contributed by F. W. Bently, Huron, S. D.

An Umbrella Holder for Display Purposes

A holder that is especially adapted for use in hanging umbrellas for display in a store can be easily made of a piece of wire wound in a coil, as shown in the sketch, to fit over the end on the umbrella stick. The coil at one end of the spring is formed into a hook so that the umbrellas may be hung in screweyes or on a line, as the case may be. The end of the umbrella is stuck into the spring, as shown, which grips it tightly.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.

Holder for a Milk Card

It is the general practice of milkmen to furnish a monthly card on which the housewife marks the needs of the day and then hangs it outside of the door for the information of the driver. This card also serves as a record for checking the accounts of the milk delivered during the month, and therefore it is desirable to protect it from snow and sleet.

In order to furnish this protection and at the same time make it unnecessary for any one to go outside of the door to hang up the card on stormy days, one of our readers has submitted the following plan which he has used for some time.

On the outside of the kitchen door, where the milkman is to deliver his bottles, this man has fastened an ordinary picture frame with glass but no backing except the door. Through the door and just below the upper edge of the glass is cut a thin slot inclining downward and outward so that the milk card can be easily pushed through the slot and thus be displayed behind the glass in the frame. By this protection it is kept free from mud, snow and ice. It is not necessary to step outside to place the card in the frame.

Frame for Printing Post Cards from Negatives

As I desired to print only a portion of some of my 5 by 7-in. plates on post cards and the part wanted was near the edge of the plate, I cut out the printing frame, as shown at A in the sketch, to accommodate that part of the card I reserved for a margin. This permitted the card to be placed in the frame without making a bend.--Contributed by J. H. Maysilles, Rochelle, Ill.

Finger Protection on Laboratory Vessels

A simple way of protecting the fingers against being burned by laboratory vessels in which liquids are boiling or chemical reactions producing great heat are going on, is shown in the sketch. A rather thick cord or yarn is wrapped around the neck of the vessel in the manner shown, the upper end being drawn through the loop at the top and cut off, and the lower end then pulled out and a knot tied in it close to the windings of the yarn.

Inlaying Metals by Electroplating

Very pretty and artistic effects of silver or nickel inlay on bronze, copper, etc., or copper on dark oxidized metals, may be obtained by means of etching and electroplating.

The metal on which the inlay is to be used is first covered with a thin coating of wax and the design scratched through to the metal with a sharp, hard point of some kind. The design is then etched in slowly with well diluted nitric acid, allowing the etching to penetrate quite deeply. The metal is then taken out and after a thorough rinsing in water is hung in the plating bath.

As the wax has been left on, the plating will fill the lines of the design only, and will not touch the covered surface. When the etched lines are filled, the object is taken out of the bath and the wax removed.--Contributed by S. V. Cooke, Hamilton, Can.

A Novel Show-Window Attraction

This moving show-window attraction can be simply and cheaply made. The things necessary are a small battery motor, a large horseshoe magnet and a large polished steel ball, perfectly true and round, such as used in bearings. The other materials usually can be found in any store. Procure some thick cardboard and cut two disks, 8 in. in diameter, and two disks, 7-1/2 in. in diameter. Glue these together to make the wheel A, the larger disks forming the flanges. Make a smaller wheel, B, the size of which will be governed by the speed of the motor used. The wheel A is mounted in a box to run with its surface close to the under side of the cover, which should be of a thin, stiff cardboard. The wheel B is mounted on an axle that runs in metal bearings. The magnet D is placed on the wheel A. The steel ball E is put on the thin cover of the box, and the magnet causes it to roll around as the wheel turns. The box inclosing the mechanical parts should be placed out of sight when used in a window.--Contributed by Clarence Guse, Spokane, Wash.

How to Make a Mop Wringer

A mop wringer may be made and attached to an ordinary pail in the following manner: Two pieces of metal, A, are attached securely at opposite sides of the edge of the pail, holes being drilled in their upper ends to serve as bearings for the roller B. The piece of metal C, which is duplicated at the opposite side of the pail, is pivoted on a bolt. These pieces also carry a roller, E, at their upper ends, and have a crosspiece, F, at their lower ends. Discarded wringer rollers can be used for B and E. A coil spring is attached as shown, to keep the rollers separate and in a position to receive the mop. When the mop is placed between the rollers they are brought together by a pressure of the foot on the crosspiece F.--Contributed by J. Dennis McKennon, New Britain, Conn.

A Vise Used as a Caliper Gauge

Not infrequently it is desired to know the distance from one side to another of some part that cannot be directly measured with a rule, and when no calipers are at hand. But with a vise handy, the measurement can be made with ease and with sufficient accuracy for all practical purposes if the vise is not too worn. This trick is particularly adapted for calipering threaded parts, as threads cannot be measured readily with ordinary calipers. How this may be done is shown in the sketch, which illustrates the method as applied to a screw. The work is gripped between the jaws of the vise and the opening then measured with a rule.--Contributed by Donald A. Hampson, Middletown, New York.

Homemade Tack Puller

A very handy tack puller can be made of a round-head bolt. On one side of the head file a V-shaped notch and screw a wood handle on the threads. This makes a very powerful puller that will remove large tacks from hardwood easily.

How to Make a Radium Photograph

The radium rays, like the X-rays, affect the photographic plate, as is well known, but it would naturally be supposed that the enormous cost of radium would prevent the making of such a photograph by the amateur.

It is a fact, however, that a radium photograph can be made at home at practically no cost at all, provided the amateur has patience enough to gather the necessary material, which is nothing else but broken incandescent gas mantles. These (especially Welsbach mantles) contain a salt of the rare metal thorium, which is slightly radioactive. The thing to do, then, is to collect a sufficient quantity of broken mantles to cover the bottom of a small cardboard box--a dryplate box, for instance--with a layer of powdered mantle substance. Upon this layer and pressed tightly against it is placed a piece of cardboard; then some metal objects, a button, hairpin, a buckle, or the like, are laid on the cardboard and covered with a sensitized paper. This is again covered with a piece of cardboard and the box filled with crumpled paper to the top. The cover is then put on, the box tied up with a piece of string and set in some place where it is sure to be left undisturbed.

The radium rays from the powdered mantles readily penetrate the cardboard and paper, but not the metal articles. Being very weak, the rays must be given four weeks to accomplish their work. After that time, however, if the sensitive paper is taken out, pictures of the metal objects in white on a dark background will be found on it. These pictures will not be so sharp as ordinary photographs, because the rays are not focused, but they fairly represent the originals and the experiment is an interesting one.

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A good imitation mahogany stain consists of 1 part
Venetian red and 2 parts yellow lead, mixed with thin
glue size, and is laid on with a woolen cloth.

Fountain for an Ordinary Pen

Fill the hollow end of an ordinary penholder with cotton--not too tightly--and one dip of the pen will hold enough ink to write a full page. The cotton should be changed each day. A small piece of sponge will answer the same purpose. It is necessary to dip the pen deeply into the ink.--Contributed by J. E. Noble, London Junction, Ontario.

Pulling Wire through Curved Electric Fixtures

To facilitate the running of electric wires through curved fixtures, nick a heavy shot, A, and fasten it on a cord, B, in the same manner as a fishline is weighted. The shot will roll through the fixture tube, carrying the cord with it. A cord strong enough to pull the wires through can be easily drawn through the opening in this manner. The shot should, of course, not be so large that it can possibly bind in the tube.

An Automatically Closing Drawer

A very ingenious way to have a drawer close automatically is to attach a weight so that the rope or cord will pull on the rear end of the drawer. The sketch clearly shows the device which is an attachment similar to that used for closing gates. This can be applied to drawers that are frequently drawn out and in places where a person is liable to have the hands full.

A Cork Puller

The stopper of any ordinary bottle can be easily removed with a puller such as shown in the sketch. The puller is inserted between the stopper and the neck of the bottle until the hook end will pass under the bottom of the stopper, then given a quarter turn and pulled upward.

The construction of the puller vents the cork as it enters and thus no vacuum is created. The cork is pulled more easily than with an ordinary corkscrew, and there is no danger of tearing the cork to pieces.

Uses for a Bamboo Pole

Select a good bamboo pole, about 18 ft. long, and cut it into three lengths as follows: A piece from the top, 2-1/2 ft. long; the next length, 5-1/2 ft. long, and the remaining end of the pole, about 10 ft. long. The 2-1/2-ft. length is equipped with a screw hook in the smaller end, as shown in Fig. 1. This stick is useful in lowering window shades that have a ring or screw eye attached to the lower part of the shade. When the stick is not in use, it is hung on the edge of the window casing.

The 5-1/2-ft. length makes the long handle for a duster. Procure an old-style lamp-chimney cleaner, wind a cord around the wires a few inches below the point where they begin to spread to keep them from coming apart, then cut or file the wires off 2 in. below the winding. This leaves a straight shank, over which a ferrule is slipped before it is inserted into the small end of the pole. Fill the remaining space in the pole end with plaster of Paris, and when it has set, slip the ferrule into place on the pole end. If a ferrule is not at hand, a fine wire can be wound around the end to prevent the pole from splitting. When using this pole to dust hardwood floors, tops of doors, window casings and picture frames, put a dusting cloth into the claws and slide the ring into place, as shown in Fig. 2.

The longer and larger end of the pole is used as a clothesline pole. One end of this pole is fitted with a yoke made of No. 6 gauge galvanized wire, as shown in Fig. 3. The wire for the yoke is 10 in. long, and after bending it in shape, the two upper ends should be 2 in. wide at the top and 2 in. deep. Insert the straight end of the wire into the smaller end of the pole and set it in firmly with plaster of Paris. The end of the pole should be securely wound with wire to keep the bamboo from splitting.--Contributed by Gertrude M. Bender, Utica, N. Y.

Making Common Lock Less Pickable

The ordinary lock can be readily changed so that it will be quite impossible to pick it with a common key. The way to do this is to cut off the small hollow portion of the key that fits over the pin. This part is placed on the pin of the lock and soldered, or fastened by any other means, so it cannot come out of the lock. This will prevent any ordinary key from entering the keyhole.--Contributed by A. J. Hamilton, Benton, Ark.

To Color Tan Leather Black

An inexpensive and effective way to blacken tan leather is as follows: The leather is first rubbed with a 10-per-cent solution of tannic acid, which may be purchased at any drug store. This treatment should be applied and the leather well dried. It should be rubbed with a cloth hard enough to produce a polish, then apply a 10-per-cent solution of iron sulphate. A chemical reaction takes place as the last solution is rubbed into the leather, making it black. After this is dry, the leather can be polished in the usual way.

To Prevent Corks Sticking in Bottle Necks

Corks will always adhere to the necks of bottles containing glue or other sticky liquids, with the result that it becomes necessary to cut or dig the cork into small pieces in order to remove the contents from the bottle.

A simple and effective way to prevent a cork from sticking is to place a small piece of waxed paper on the bottle opening so that when the cork is pressed in, the paper will be between the cork and glass, as shown.

To Remove Rust Stains from Clothing

Many times when working around machinery, the clothes will come in contact with iron and get rust stains. These may be removed by using a weak solution of oxalic acid which must be applied carefully as it is highly poisonous. Sometimes the stain can be removed by washing the spot in buttermilk, in which case rubbing is necessary.

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Small bits of onion placed in a room will absorb the
disagreeable odors of paint and turpentine.

Eraser Holder

Any small piece of steel with a point, similar to that shown in the sketch, will make a good eraser holder. The saving of erasers is nothing compared to the convenience of having a small eraser with a chisel edge or point when delicate erasing is required. It is not clumsy as the usual chunk of rubber with a blunt point, for the person erasing can see what he is doing. I use a leg of an old pair of dividers and cut my erasers in four parts in shapes similar to that shown in the sketch by the dotted lines, and can use them easily until they are about the size of a pea. The friction between the rubber and steel, after the point has been inserted into the rubber, holds the two together nicely.--Contributed by James F. Burke, Lakewood, O.

Bleaching Ivory

A good method to bleach ivory ornaments is to rub on a solution made of a small quantity of unslaked lime, bran and water. The mixture should be wiped off after the ivory has become sufficiently bleached, and the surface then rubbed with sawdust or magnesia, which gives it a brilliant polish.

A Soap Shake

To utilize scraps of soap, make a soap shake of a medium-size baking-powder can, as shown in the sketch. Punch holes in the can with an ice pick or some other sharp-pointed instrument, and attach a large wire to the center, twisting the ends to form a handle.--Contributed by Elizabeth P. Grant, Winchester, Virginia.

Ear Repair on a Bucket

A broken ear for a bail on a metal pail or bucket can be replaced with a window-shade fastener, such as shown at A in the sketch. The base of the fastener is turned down flat and attached with screw bolts or rivets, as shown at B.--Contributed by Harold Robinson, Suffern, N. Y.

Cleaning Dirt from Tufts in Upholstering

A handy device for cleaning furniture upholstering and vehicle-seat tuftings may be easily made as follows: Take an ordinary round paintbrush and cut the handle off, leaving it about 1-1/2 in. long, then saw a V-shaped notch in it, as shown in Fig. 1. Attach the brush to the ratchet screwdriver, Fig. 2, by inserting the screwdriver blade in the notch of the brush handle, and secure it by wrapping a strong cord around the handle. Place the brush in the tuft and work the screwdriver handle, as in turning a screw. A few quick turns of the brush will throw out the dirt which is impossible to remove with a straight brush.

Painting Lead Pipe

The paint applied to lead pipes will chip and peel off, and to prevent this I first cover the lead surface with a thin coat of varnish, then apply the paint on the varnish. A lead pipe painted in this way will retain its coating.--Contributed by F. Schumacher, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Attaching a Vise Jaw to a Bench

Procure a toothed metal rail or rack, A, such as is used for small ladder tracks, and mount it on the lower edge of the guide rail for the lower end of the vise jaw. Provide a slot, B, in the leg of the bench, through which the rail can run with plenty of play room. A beveled plate, C, is attached to the face of the bench leg at the bottom of the slot, so that it will engage the teeth of the rack.