Chapter XX: Part IV: Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait (13)

The windmill shown in the sketch is one that will always face the wind, and it never requires adjustment. It consists of a vertical shaft, A, provided with a number of arms, B, on which are hinged square sails, C. These sails are preferably made of wood frames covered with canvas. They are provided with hinges, D, attached to the ends of the arms in such a way that they offer resistance to the wind on one side of the wheel, while they move edgewise against the wind on the other side, as shown. The shaft of the mill can either be run in bearings set on an upright post, the lower end of the shaft turning on a conical bearing, or collars may be used on the bearings to keep it in position. The power can be transmitted with gears or by a flat belt over a pulley.

A wheel of this kind is not adapted for high speed, but direct-connected to a pump or other slow-working machinery will prove very efficient.--Contributed by Edward Hanson, Kane, Pennsylvania.

A Small Bunsen Burner

An excellent bunsen burner for small work can be made as follows: Draw a glass tube to the shape shown, to produce a fine hollow point. Mark carefully with a file and break at A and then at B. Bore or burn a hole in a cork to fit the tube. Cut a V-shaped notch in the side of the cork extending to the hole. Bend the lower tube at right angles and insert it in a wood block, previously slotted with a saw to make a snug fit. A little glue will hold the glass tubes, cork and base together. The air mixture can be adjusted by sliding the upper tube before the glue sets.

The burner is especially adapted to continuous work, such as sealing packages, etc. The flame will not discolor the wax.--Contributed by E. P. Fert, Spokane, Wash.

The Hindoo Sand Trick

This is one of the many tricks for which the Hindoos are famous, and was long kept a secret by them. It consists of placing ordinary sand in a basin full of water, stirring the water and taking out the sand in handfuls perfectly dry. It need scarcely be said that without previous preparation, it is impossible to do so.

Take 2 lb. of fine silver sand, place it in a frying pan and heat well over a clear fire. When the sand is thoroughly heated, place a small piece of grease or wax--the composition of a paraffin candle preferred--in the sand, stirring it well to get it thoroughly mixed, then allow the sand to cool. When this sand is placed in a basin of water, it will be apparently dry when taken out. It is very important that only a small portion of the adherent be used so that it cannot be detected when the sand is examined by the audience. The explanation is that the grease or wax coating on each sand particle repels the water.--Contributed by Mighty Oaks, Oshkosh, Wis.

A Kite-Line Cutaway for Toy Parachutes

The cutaway is made of a small piece of board, a cigar-box lid, an old yardstick or a piece of lath, which should be about 6 in. long. Common carpet wire staples are used to hold it on the string. The under side has a wire bent into such a shape as to form a loop at the forward end over the kite string, then running back through the two staples at the one side and through two staples at the other side.

The parachute should have a small wire ring fastened at the weight end so as to fasten in the carrier, and should be put between the two staples that are closest together on the under side of the carrier. A small nail or button--anything larger than the loop in the wire--should be attached to the kite string a few feet from the kite. When the parachute is carried up the kite string, the knob on the string will strike the loop of the wire on the carrier, which releases the parachute and allows it to drop. The carrier will return of its own weight to the lower end of the string.--Contributed by I. O. Lansing, Lincoln, Neb.

A Cherry Pitter

Procure an ordinary quill feather and cut the tip off to form a small hole. Do not remove so much of the end that the cherry stone can stick in it. The hole must be slightly smaller than the cherry stone. Push the quill through the center of the cherry and the stone will come out easily.--Contributed by Harold Wynning, Chicago, Ill.

To Hold a Fish while Removing the Scales

Insert a screwdriver or ice pick in a fish as shown, and the scales can be removed much better and quicker than in any other way. The handle of the screwdriver affords an efficient grip so that the fish can be held firmly on the board and every scale can be removed.

Carrying Stone Jars

The handholds on stone jars are usually not large enough to carry the jars safely when they are full. If the handles of an old galvanized tub are riveted to a leather strap long enough to reach under the bottom and almost to the top on each side, the jar can be handled without danger of being dropped. The fingers are placed in the handles to carry the weight, while the thumbs are used to keep the jar from tipping. By placing a buckle near one end, the strap may be used for carrying a jar of any size.--Contributed by C. H. Floyd, Elwood, Ind.

Vibrator for a Spark Coil

If you do not have the time to make a vibrator or electrolytic interrupter for a spark coil, a common electric door-bell makes a good substitute. Connect one of the primary wires to the binding-post of the bell that is not insulated from the frame, and the other primary wire to the adjusting screw on the make-and-break contact of the bell, as shown in the sketch. The connections are made from the batteries to the bell in the usual manner.--Contributed by Ralph Tarshis, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Head Rest for a Chair

While seated in a chair a person very often desires to lay the head back in resting. A support for the head is lacking in the low-back rockers and ordinary chairs. A detachable, padded support can be easily made at home for placing on any low-back chair and used as a head rest.

The support standards can be made of wood or metal as desired. If metal is used, the rest will have some springiness, which combined with the pad will insure much greater comfort than the hard rigid back. A cloth or paper is placed over the back of the chair to prevent marring of the varnish or wood.

Lighting a Lawn Mower for Use at Night

Those who desire to do so, or must, for lack of time during the day, may use their lawn mower at night and light the front of their machine with an ordinary bicycle lamp. The arm to hold the lamp can be attached with screws to the handle as shown in the sketch. It is easily made from a piece of hoop or bar iron.--Contributed by Samuel F. Reid, Minneapolis, Minn.

Tying a Rosette in a Couch-Cover Corner

In the accompanying illustration is shown a very simple method of tying a rosette in the corner of a couch cover. The use of the average couch cover as a throw-over leaves a large corner which drags upon the floor. To dispose of this extra length and at the same time make an artistic corner, the Upholsterer suggests the following method:

Spread the couch cover on the couch so that the surplus is evenly divided between the sides and ends, and pass a pin through the cover to show each corner as in Fig. 1. Measure the distance from each corner of the couch to the floor, Fig. 2, and measuring from the point of the corner, mark the same distance by the insertion of another pin, repeating in all four corners. The distance between the two pins at each corner now defines the amount of surplus that is to be taken up. Chalk a circle to include the portion between these two pins, as shown in Fig. 3, and with a circular needle and stout stitching twine run a shirring thread around the circle, and when this is drawn tightly and tied, the surplus is formed into a rosette, while the corner may be draped into an artistic cascade, as shown in Fig. 4.

Driving Screws

A wood screw having the threads hammered flat on two sides can be easily driven in with the flattened sides parallel to the grain of the wood. When the screw is turned a quarter turn the remaining threads cross the grain and hold as well as if they had been turned in all the way. This is an especial advantage where something is wanted which is easily inserted and will hold better than a nail.--Contributed by P. D. Merrill, Chicago.

A Power Windmill

The windmill shown is somewhat different from the ordinary kind. It is not a toy, nor does it approach in size the ordinary farm windmill, but is a compromise between the two, and in a good strong wind, will supply power enough to run a washing machine, a small dynamo, an emery wheel, or any other device used in the home workshop. The wheel is about 5 ft. in diameter, with eight blades. The over-all length is about 6 feet.

The windmill is easily made and the cost is within the means of the average boy. There is not a part used in its construction that cannot be found about an ordinary manual-training shop. The most difficult parts of the construction will be described in detail. Symmetry and smoothness of design should be preserved and the parts made as light as possible consistent with strength and durability.

The Wheel

As shown in the drawings, the wheel has eight blades. Ordinarily the use of eight blades makes it difficult to construct a hub of sufficient strength to carry them. Where so many blades radiate from a common center it is almost impossible to provide an anchorage for each blade. To provide a maximum of strength coupled with simplicity of design, the plan of using two hubs of four arms each was adopted in the construction of this mill. The ordinary hub of four arms is simple to make and quite strong. Four pieces of straight-grained oak, each 16 in. long and 1-7/8 in. square, are used in constructing the hubs. The manner of notching each pair of pieces together is shown in Fig. 1. The slope for the blades is made to run in opposite directions on the ends of each crosspiece. The slope is formed by cutting out a triangular piece, as shown.

The two hubs, thus formed, are mounted on the shaft, one behind the other, in such positions that the arms will be evenly divided for space in the wheel circle. These details are shown in Fig. 2. The blades, Fig. 3, are made of thin basswood or hard maple, and each is fastened in its place by means of two 3/8-in. bolts, in addition to which a few brads are driven in to prevent the thin blades from warping.

The Gears

This windmill was designed to transmit power by means of shafts and gear wheels, rather than with cranks and reciprocating pump rods, such as are used on ordinary farm mills. To obtain this result, an old sewing machine head was used. Such a part can be obtained from a junk dealer or a sewing-machine agent. The head is stripped of its base plate with the shuttle gearing; likewise the needle rod, presser foot, etc., are taken from the front end of the head along with the faceplate. The horizontal shaft and gear wheel are taken out and the bearings reamed out for a 1/2-in. shaft, which is substituted. The shaft should be 2 ft. in length, and 8 or 10 in. of its outer end threaded for the clamping nuts which hold the two hubs in place, as shown at A and B, Fig. 2. The gear wheel is also bored out and remounted on the new shaft.

The supporting standard is constructed of oak, with mortise-and-tenon joints, as shown in Fig. 4. The width of the pieces will depend on the kind of sewing-machine head used. It may be necessary also to slightly change the dimensions. The machine head is fastened on the support with bolts. A sleeve and thrust spring are mounted on the shaft, as shown. The sleeve is made of brass tubing, of a size to fit snugly on the shaft. A cotter will keep it in place. The sleeve serves as a collar for the thrust spring, which is placed between the sleeve and the standard. This arrangement acts as a buffer to take up the end thrust on the shaft caused by the varying pressure of the wind on the wheel.

The Vane

To keep the wheel facing the wind at all times, a vane must be provided. It is made of basswood or hard maple, as shown in Fig. 5. It is not built up solid, air spaces being left between the slats to reduce the wind resistance. Unless built in this manner, the vane is liable to twist off in a gale. The horizontal slats are 1/4 in. thick, and the upright and cross braces 3/8 in. thick, while the long arm connecting the vane to the supporting standard is 1/2 in. thick.

The supporting standard, carrying the wheel and the vane, must revolve about a vertical axis with the changes in the wind, and this vertical axis is supplied in the form of a piece of gas pipe which runs through the supporting standard at the points marked C and D, Fig. 4. Ordinary pipe fittings, called flanges, are bolted to the frame at these points. The coupling in the gas pipe beneath the supporting standard serves as a stationary collar to support the weight of the whole mill. The vane should be placed correctly to balance the weight of the wheel.

The shaft passes through the framework of the mill on the inside of the pipe, as shown at E. A 3/8-in. soft-steel or wrought-iron rod is satisfactory for the shaft, as no weight is supported by it and only a twisting force is transmitted. The use of a larger rod makes the mill cumbersome and unwieldy. The upper end of the shaft is fastened to the shaft that projects from the under side of the machine head by means of a sleeve made of a piece of 3/8-in. pipe. Two cotters hold the shafts and sleeve together.

At the lower end of the shaft, inside the workshop, the device shown in Fig. 6 is installed. The purpose of this appliance is to provide a horizontal shaft upon which pulleys or driving gears may be mounted. The device is constructed of another sewing-machine head similar to the one already described. The head is cut in two and the separate parts mounted on suitable supports. The gap between the sawed portions permits a pulley to be fastened on the shaft to serve as the main drive. The wheel propelled by the treadle of the sewing machine will make a good drive wheel. The small handwheel, originally mounted on the machine-head shaft, is left intact. This arrangement gives two sizes of drive wheels. Heavy sewing-machine belts will serve to transmit the power.

The Tower

The tower can be built up in any manner to suit the conditions. Ordinarily sticks, 2 in. square, are suitable. These are well braced with wire and fastened securely to the roof of the shop. The arrangement of the tower with the mill is shown in Fig. 7.

Telegraph Code on Typewriter Keys

A very simple and practical method of transcribing wireless time and other messages on the typewriter without having such perfect knowledge of the Morse system as to be able to immediately translate it into the common alphabet is the following: The characters of the Morse system are inscribed on small slips of paper--thus, three dots (...), for the letter S; two dashes (--), for the letter M, etc.--and these slips are pasted on the corresponding keys of the typewriter. The operator puts on his receiver, and the proper key is struck as he hears the corresponding Morse letter. As there are no capitals, spacing between words, or even punctuation, the manipulation of the typewriter is much simplified, and it is easily learned to record the signals as fast as they are heard.

An Aid in Sketching Profiles

The means usually employed by most beginners to obtain the correct outline of an object, such as tracing or a pantograph, make them dependent on mechanical help rather than train the eye to form and proportion a drawing correctly. The device shown not only greatly assists the beginner, but actually trains him toward a point where he can dispense with any such device and correctly sketch by free hand. It also has the effect of encouraging the beginner, because his first efforts will not be complete failures, as is usually the case.

The device consists of a rather fine wire bent in the shape of a human profile and supported on a stand or base. The stand may be dispensed with, however, and the wire held in the hand. In use, it is placed near the model or person whose profile is to be drawn; then, after closing one eye, it is set at a position where it will correspond to the features of the model. This enables one to note the variations between the wire and the model's features. For instance, the forehead may recede from the wire at the top, or the nose may have a different slant or shape.

The paper on which the drawing is to be made should have a faint outline drawn by laying the wire upon it and marking around it with a soft pencil. Having noted the variations between the wire and the features, proceed to draw the profile, observing the same variations, and when the sketch is completed, erase the faint outlines. Then compare the drawing with the model without using the wire, and make final corrections. The dotted line indicates the outline to be erased.

The drawing may be made larger or smaller than the bent wire, but the outline on the paper must be kept in exactly the same proportion. It is not necessary that the wire be bent so that it represents perfect features. With the use of this device one forms a habit of comparing and proportioning, which applies to the correct sketching of all objects.--Contributed by Will L. Burner, Columbus, Ohio.

A Small Hydroelectric-Power Plant

Wherever a water pressure of over 30 lb. is available a small hydroelectric-power plant will produce sufficient electric current for any light work, such as charging storage batteries, operating sewing and washing machines, toys, etc. The design is for a 6-in. hydraulic motor of the Pelton type, which will operate well on almost all city-water pressures, and at 80 lb. will drive a 100-watt generator to its full output.

The castings may be procured from any foundry cheaply, so that these parts need not trouble the builder. The patterns can be constructed easily and are not so complicated that they will tear the molds when being removed. They are made from well seasoned white pine, 1/4 in. thick. Fill in all sharp corners with small fillets. All the patterns should taper slightly from the parting line.

The motor casing is shown in Fig. 1. It is made with a wide flange so that the cover plate can be bolted to it. The lug A is to give additional strength and thickness to the side so that it may be drilled and tapped for the nozzle. The legs B and C are for bolting the case to a base or support. The outlet pipe is of lead, 1-3/4 in. outside diameter, and the hole for it in the case can be either drilled or cored. Solder the pipe flush with the inside of the casing. Drill and tap the holes around the flange for 8,32 bolts. The shaft hole must be drilled very carefully. Drill 1/4-in. holes in the feet. The oil holes are 1/8 in. in diameter. File the surface of the flange smooth and also the inside shoulder of the bearing lug. Drill and tap the nozzle hole for a 3/4-in. pipe thread.

The cover plate is shown in Fig. 2, This is bolted to the casing with 8,32 brass bolts, 1/2 in. long. The holes for them are drilled 3/16 in. in diameter. A shallow hole, for the end of the shaft to fit in, is drilled in the lug, as shown. It does not pass all the way through the plate. File the inside face of the lug smooth and also the edge of the plate where it joins the casing.

The wheel, with brackets attached, is shown in Fig. 3. This style of wheel need not be followed out closely. Bore the hub centrally for a 1/4-in. shaft and fit in two setscrews. Drill and tap the rim for the buckets with a 1/4-in. standard tap. The buckets must be evenly spaced and bolted on to make the wheel balance.

The buckets are shown in Fig. 4. They may be cast from iron or babbitt. The sharp ridge in the center provides for a deviation of the water jet as it flows on the bucket. The ridge divides the bucket into two equal lobes which turn each division of the jet through almost 180 deg., using all the kinetic energy in the jet. This is shown at D. The dividing ridge must lie in the plane of the revolution, so that each bucket will enter the center of the jet. The buckets being evenly spaced on the periphery of the wheel, only one at a time receives the force of the jet, the one in front and the one behind clearing the jet.

The nozzle is shown in Fig. 5. It can be made of iron or brass. The inside gradually tapers from 3/4 to 3/16 in. It has a 3/4-in. pipe thread and is screwed into the hole in the case from the inside and is secured with a lock nut. Enough additional threaded portion is left protruding to allow the supply pipe to be connected.

When assembling the motor, fasten the wheel to the shaft with the two setscrews, and place a metal washer, E, on each side of the wheel. Place the wheel in the casing and screw the cover plate in place. A thin rubber gasket should be placed between the cover and the casing to provide a water-tight joint.

The general arrangement of the plant is shown in Fig. 6. The motor and dynamo are mounted on a heavy wood base, which in turn is firmly bolted to a concrete foundation. Level up the two machines by the use of thin washers on the bolts between the base and machine. A heavy sleeve and setscrews are used to connect the two shafts. The connection to the water supply is made with 3/4-in. pipe, with a globe valve in it to regulate the flow of water. Any dynamo of about 100-watt output can be used.

Paper Shades for Electric-Light Globes

The appearance of an electric-light globe can be very prettily improved by making a shade of crêpe paper of any desired color for each one. Canary-colored crêpe produces a soft, mellow effect. Pale blue, yellow, red and, in fact, all the colors can be used, making a very pleasing variety.

The body of the shade is made of a piece of paper about 5-1/2 in. wide and 3-1/2 ft. long. The width will vary with the length of the globe to be covered, and it is best to have it full, as the edge can be trimmed even with the lower end of the globe afterward. Another piece of the same color is cut 2-1/2 in. wide and of the same length. This piece makes the ruffle.

The smaller piece is placed on the larger centrally, and both are stitched together with a running stitch, using a needle and cotton thread. A plain running stitch is also made 1/4 in. from one edge of the larger strip. The material is gathered along both threads. This operation makes the material shrink in length. Wrap it around the globe, pulling the threads taut so that the ends of the paper will just meet. Tie the threads and clip off the extending ends. If the paper extends beyond the end of the globe, trim it off with the shears. Ruffle the two edges of the narrow strip and the lower edge of the larger one. This operation is simply stretching the edge of the crêpe to cause it to stand out.--Contributed by Jas. A. Hart, Philadelphia, Pa.

Renewing the Markings on Graduates

Graduates that have been in use a long time, especially for measuring alkalies, become unreadable. The graduations are easily restored in the following manner: Moisten a small piece of absorbent cotton with a solution of white shellac, cut in alcohol. Rub this well into all the etched parts and allow to dry for about two minutes, then rub in a fine whiting or litharge with an old toothbrush. If red is desired, use rouge; if black is preferred, use lampblack or powdered graphite. When dry, wipe off the excess pigment with a cloth moistened in alcohol.--Contributed by A. C. Norris, Rockford, Ill.

Repairing a Broken Ball-Clasp Purse

Having occasion to repair a purse of the ordinary ball-clasp kind where one of the stems was broken off and lost, I first had some trouble in finding a way to repair it. I started to take off the remaining stem in an attempt to replace the locking device with another kind, and in bending it down toward the opposite side, I happened to close the purse and found that it locked just as well as if there had been two balls on it. I have since repaired two other purses in the same manner and found that they worked well.

The idea is to bend the remaining clasp over until it is low enough to come in contact with and to spring over the other side, thus giving the same snap and holding qualities as before.--Contributed by W. C. Loy, Rochester, Ind.

Automatic Valve for a Funnel

Where liquid is run through a funnel into an opaque bottle or earthen jug, the filling cannot be watched, and if not watched constantly, the vessel will overflow. This can be obviated by applying the automatic valve to the funnel stem, as shown. A washer support is soldered or otherwise fastened in the upper end of the stem, or at the base of the sloping part, and a crossbar is fastened to its upper surface across the hole. The crossbar is centrally drilled to receive a small rod or wire, to which is attached a valve that will cover the hole in the washer. A cork is stuck on the lower end of the rod. The location of the cork on the rod should be at a point a little below the level to which the bottle or vessel is to be filled.--Contributed by H. W. Hilton, Hopington, B. C.

Chisel Holder for Whetting

To obtain the proper slope and apply a fine cutting edge, the plane iron or chisel must be held at the proper slope while grinding, and especially so when whetting. The illustration shows a holder to keep the iron or chisel at the proper slope. It consists of a block of wood with a sloping cut at the right angle to make two pieces. One of these pieces is permanently fastened to the strip at the back, while the other is held with a bolt passing through a notch in the strip for adjusting or clamping. The rear end of the back piece is fitted with a large screw hook or L-hook to provide a slide to keep the rear end of the holder at the right height. The iron or chisel is inserted between the sloping edges of the blocks and clamped in place, then the L-screw is adjusted for height to secure the proper angle on the stone. It is then only necessary to move the block and tool back and forth over the stone.

A Large Hole in a Small Piece of Paper

It would seem impossible to cut a hole in a piece of paper, 2 in. wide and 3 in. long, large enough to allow a person's body to pass through it, but if carefully cut as shown by the lines in the sketch, one will find with surprise that the paper can be extended so that the feat is easily accomplished. Make the cuts about 1/8 in. apart and these will allow the paper to expand several times its size.--Contributed by H. Martine Warner, E. Orange, N. J.

Homemade Bunsen Burner

The amateur craftsman, at some time or other, needs a hot flame for certain kinds of work, and a Bunsen or alcohol flame is brought into service. The gasoline and alcohol flames have their drawbacks, one of which is the starting of the burner and the waiting for the heat. They are also unhandy in directing the flame on parts of the work. As I desired a burner for quick work and one whose flame I could direct at any angle, for repoussé and chasing on copper and silversmith's work, I made the one shown in the sketch to attach to a hose and connected it with the gas pipe of the illuminating system in the house. It consists of a hose connection into which a piece of pipe, 5 in. long, is fitted. The hose connection is also fitted with a small nozzle, A, for the gas, and the pipe has an opening through it at the end of the nozzle.--Contributed by John Koestner, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Cane-Seat Cleaner

A rapid and practical method of removing stains and discolorations from the cane seats of chairs, wickerwork, etc., is to use oxalic acid and powdered pumice.

Dissolve oxalic-acid crystals in hot water and saturate a small stiff brush in it, then dip the brush in the powdered pumice and rub the discolored cane briskly with the brush.--Contributed by W. F. Jaquythe, Richmond, California.

Shade-Roller and Curtain-Pole Bracket

The main advantage of this shade bracket is that a person can lower it for adjusting the shade or in changing curtains while standing on the floor, thus eliminating the use of a step ladder and the danger possibly attending such use.

The front elevation of a window with bracket attachment in position is shown in Fig. 1, and a cross section in Fig. 2. The position of the curtain pole when the brackets are lowered is shown by the dotted lines. A detail sketch of the support end is given in Fig. 3 and one bracket is shown in Fig. 4.

The curtain pole A is fastened to the brackets B with 1/4-in. dowel pins, C. These pins and the pole keep the brackets from spreading at the top, so that a shade roller, D, may have its attachments fastened to the inner sides of the brackets. A small pulley, E, is attached to the window casing above the right bracket and a double pulley is located above the left, cords being passed through them, down along the casing to a point within easy reach, and fastened in any manner desired.

All that is necessary to change the curtains or fix a shade is to loosen the cord and allow the brackets to drop down until they may be easily reached.--Contributed by James F. Napier, Montreal, Can.

Planing Arrow Sticks

While making some bows one day I discovered I had no suitable dowel sticks for the arrows, so I started to make them out of 1/4-in. square stock. I found it rather difficult to plane these pieces until I hit upon the scheme shown in the sketch. I procured a piece of ordinary tongue-and-groove flooring and clamped it in the bench vise, then drove a nail in the groove to act as a stop, and in no time I had the sticks planed into arrows.--Contributed by J. F. Culverwell, Washington, District of Columbia.

To Clean Shellac from a Brush

Put the brush in a strong, warm solution of borax and water, and then wash in clean, warm water. If the bristles have become hard, allow the brush to remain in the solution until soft, keeping the solution warm in the meantime; then wash it out in warm water.--Contributed by N. J. Shattuck, Woburn, Mass.

Lathe Dogs

In the absence of a full equipment of lathe dogs the amateur can make them cheaply from pieces of iron pipe. One of these is shown in the sketch. A section of pipe, 1-1/2 in. to 3 in. long, is partly cut away, as shown, leaving a projection of metal 1 in. wide. One or more setscrews are fitted in the round part, and the dog is complete.

A dog, or driver, may also be made of two U-clamps and two bolts as shown. This is especially useful for large work, where the cost of a dog would be prohibitive. After these two clamps are bolted on the work to be turned a bolt is attached in the faceplate that bears against the clamp, thus turning the work.

To Remove a Splinter from the Flesh

Quite frequently small particles of steel, splinters, or thorns are run into the flesh and cannot be removed with the fingers. These can be readily removed in the following manner: Press the eye of an ordinary needle over the protruding end, then turn the needle until the edges bind or clinch. While in this position, raise the needle and out comes the splinter.

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A fine luster can be given to zinc by rubbing it with
kerosene or a weak solution of sulphuric acid.

Holders for Displaying Magazines

Papers and magazines often are sold in drug stores where the display space usually is limited, especially in the window. The method used by one druggist gave space for the magazines in the window without interfering with the other goods.

The back of the window was arranged with rows of hooks, three hooks for each magazine, two at the top edges and one in the center at the bottom. The magazine is easily slipped into these holders, and the whole presents a tidy appearance. The hooks are the ordinary screwhooks that can be obtained from a hardware or furniture store.--Contributed by T. F. Monaghan, Philadelphia, Pa.

Waste-Paper Basket

The covering of a broken demijohn was used in the manner shown as a waste-paper basket. The glass was broken out and the covering soaked in water, after which the splints were turned down and tied with a cord. This I found to make a first-class waste-paper basket.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Gordon, Canada.

Lettering Photographs

Amateur photographers often write, or print, the names of the subjects on the mounts, or in the albums, with white ink or scratch it on the negative so that it will print in the picture.

A very good method is to take ordinary black ink and do the lettering on the sensitive paper before it is printed under the negative, being careful not to scratch the paper. After printing the paper to the proper shade the toning and fixing baths will wash away the ink and leave the lettering in white.

The lettering is easily accomplished and a post card can be sent with any message desired on any negative, the inscription being printed on the paper so that the negative is unharmed for other printing.--Contributed by Henry J. Marion, Pontiac, Mich.

A Stamp Moistener

A handy stamp moistener and envelope sealer can be made by procuring a small medicine bottle or glass vial and inserting a piece of felt or other wicking material in the place of the stopper, and filling it with water.

This moistener will be found handy for a small office where the mail is quite heavy, but not big enough to warrant the purchasing of a sealing machine. This moistener is sanitary and replaces the wet sponge.--Contributed by Theo. J. Becker, Kansas City, Mo.

A Window Lock

A very neat window lock can be made of sheet steel, 1/2 in. wide. One piece, shaped like a saw tooth, is fastened to the sash, and the other, which is bent to form a catch over the tooth projection and ends in a curved top for a finger hold, is attached to the window casing. The illustration clearly shows how the lock is attached.--Contributed by Lee B. Green, Cleveland, O.

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Georgia pine should be filled with white shellac.

Varnished Candles Burn Longer

The heated tallow or wax of a candle runs down the sides and this results in a considerable waste. This waste can be stopped by coating the new candles with white varnish and laying them aside for a few days to harden. The varnish will keep the melted tallow or wax from running away and it is used in the wick.

Guides for a Mill File

Having a large number of wires to file true on the end I devised a way to do this with the use of some old worn-out and discarded files that had good cutting edges. A piece of sheet copper, about the same length as the files, was bent to fit over one edge and both sides of the file, allowing both edges to project about 1/4 in. This made a guide that prevented the edge of the file from slipping off the end of the wire. The guide was held in place on the file by cutting a slit in the projecting edges, about 1/4 in. from the end, and turning these separated parts back on the file.

If such a guide is fitted tightly on a file, the edges of worn-out files can be used for such work, and the file cannot slip off and mar the sides of the work.--Contributed by A. R. Drury, Hampton, Ill.

A Simple Motion-Picture Machine

The drum A is a piece of wood, 1-3/4 in. long and 1-3/16 in. in diameter, supported on the end of a round stick, B, which can be made in one piece with the drum, if a wood lathe is at hand, but a piece cut from a curtain pole and a lead pencil inserted in a hole bored in the end will answer the purpose. Be sure to have the diameter of the drum 1-3/16 inches.

Provide a base piece, C, 1/2 in. thick and 2 in. square, and fasten a piece of cardboard having a slit E, as shown. The cardboard should be 2 in. wide and 2-1/2 in. high, the slit being cut 1/2 in. in width, 1/4 in. from the top and 3/4 in. from the bottom. A hole is bored in the center of the block to admit the standard B easily.

The next step is to provide the picture and attach it to the drum. A picture of a boy pounding cobblestones is shown in the sketch, at F, which should be made on a strip of paper 4-3/8 in. long. This is glued or attached with rubber bands to the drum. The drawing can be enlarged in pen and ink, or can be reproduced as it is, if a hand camera is at hand, and a print used on the drum.

It is only necessary to put the parts together, grasp the base in one hand and turn the support B with the other, when, looking through the slot E, the boy is seen pounding the stones. Various pictures can be made and the strips changed.--Contributed by C. C. Fraser, Saginaw, Mich.

Substitute for Cleats on Boards

The necessity for using more than one cleat for fastening two boards together may be done away with by using the device shown in the sketch. The center cleat prevents the boards from buckling while the sides are tightly held by these simple flat fasteners. The fasteners are made of tin cut as indicated, slipped between the edges of the boards and the parts bent over and tacked. Where the strain is not too great the holders may be used without a cleat, making an effective flat fastening.--Contributed by W. O. Nettleton, Washington, D. C.

Attaching Door Knobs to Locks

When putting a lock on a door it is often difficult to press the two knobs together tightly enough to prevent them from rattling and still be able to insert the screw into the shank. By using a piece of board, 1 in. thick, 6 in. wide and 1 ft. or more in length, with a V-shaped piece cut out of one side, the knobs can be easily forced and held together while the screw is inserted.--Contributed by H. Musgrave, Sidney, British Columbia.

A Finger-Nail Buffer

The flywheel on a sewing machine is usually turned with a semicircular face and this makes a good base on which to apply a piece of chamois skin for use in buffing nails. A strip of the chamois is cut the length of the wheel's circumference and small holes pierced in its edges, through which strings are run to hold it to the rim of the wheel. The chamois can then be removed or left on the wheel as desired. Run the machine and hold the nail on the buffer. When there is a free wheel on the machine this makes an excellent buffing device.

Grinding Chisel Edges

A cold chisel ground with a rounding edge, as shown, will last twice as long and do better work than one that is ground straight, because it will not wedge, and the cutting edge, having a better support, will not chip off.--Contributed by F. G. Marbach, Cleveland, O.

Reducing Amperage of a Fuse Wire

It is sometimes necessary to use an electrical fuse of smaller amperage than those at hand, and for experimental work this is often the case. A smaller amperage may be readily made from a larger-size wire by making a nick in it with the cutting edge of pliers, or with a knife. The illustration shows how to reduce the size of a 10-ampere fuse to make it five amperes.--Contributed by Louis Litsky, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Dip-Plating Process

The various ways of doing dip plating are practically the same method, the coating fluid consisting of essentially the same materials.

The tank or crucible, as it may be called, consists of a piece of 3-in. gas pipe, 9 in. long, threaded at both ends, one end being fitted with a screw cap and the other with a pipe flange. This part is shown in Fig. 1. A piece of sheet metal is cut in the shape shown in Fig. 2 and bent to form a cone, so that the smaller end will fit snugly around the pipe and the base be 9 in. in diameter. The joined edges are riveted together. The assembled parts will appear as shown in Fig. 3.

The metal used for plating consists of bismuth, 4 oz.; antimony, 4 oz., and pure block tin, 10 lb. Place the antimony in the crucible and melt it, then add the tin and bismuth. A flame from an ordinary gasoline burner will be sufficient to heat the crucible.

Clean the article to be coated by rinsing it in strong caustic potash, which will remove all grime and grease, then dip it in a strong solution of sal ammoniac and water. Dry it and then dip it in the melted metal, allowing it to remain there about 1 minute, then remove and plunge it in a bath made of 1 lb. of sal ammoniac and 1 gal. of water. The article is then dried in sawdust.

The coating put on in this manner is a nice, shiny plate that will stand a lot of wear. No polishing or grinding is necessary.--Contributed by A. H. Waychoff, Lyons, Colo.

A Model Steam-Turbine Boat

A piece of thin board, or shingle, is cut to the shape of a boat and two standards are fastened to it. The standards have notches cut in them to hold an ordinary baking-powder can which is used for the boiler. The lid of the can is soldered on, and a small hole punched in one side with an awl. Two candles are used to heat the water.

The turbine is constructed on an axle made of a hatpin which runs through the top of the standards for bearings. The paddles are made of cardboard, or better still, pieces of thin sheet tin, cut and bent as shown at A, and three of these are attached to a three-cornered block of wood fastened to the shaft, as shown at B. The manner of attaching the shaft for the propeller is shown at C. The propeller consists of a piece of tin, slightly twisted and attached to the shaft with solder. The pulleys are located as shown and connected with a string band. The hole made in the can should be pointed to one side of the turbine shaft so that the escaping steam will strike one side of the paddles on the turbine.--Contributed by McKinley Wood, Ava, N. Y.

Plant Shelf for a Window

An ingenious and simple method of putting up window shelves for winter plants so that the window casing and facing are not marred is shown in the sketch. The materials required are one shelf, about 8 in. wide, 1-1/2 yd. of picture wire, two screweyes, two fence staples, and two strips of wood, to raise the shelf slightly from the window sill. The board for the shelf is cut to fit the window frame and casing. The picture wire, screweyes and staples are attached as shown. When cleaning the window the shelf can be drawn out of the way.--Contributed by H. C. Dixon, Johnstown, Pa.

A Camera Support

A device which, in many instances, will take the place of a tripod, can be made of a brass wood screw and can be carried in the pocket as easily as a pencil. The screw should be 3 or 4 in. long and 1/4 in. in diameter. Cut off the head and thread the end about 1/2 in. to fit the socket in the camera. Drill a 1/8-in. hole through the metal just below the threaded part and insert a short piece of 1/8-in. wire. Slip a washer over the end, down to the wire, and fasten it with solder.

The device can be turned into a tree, post or a stick thrust into the ground, and the camera screwed onto it and adjusted to any angle.--Contributed by O. D. Turner, Seattle, Wash.

Combination Tool for Amateur Draftsmen

A common 6-in. mill file can be converted into a very useful tool for an amateur draftsman. Grind the end of the file as shown in the sketch and use it for prying out thumbtacks that are driven in too tightly. Grind the base of the tang into a knife blade for sharpening pencils, shaving chalk, opening envelopes, etc. Shape, by careful grinding, the part A for cutting and trimming sheets. Grind one edge of the file round and polish it for smoothing and burnishing purposes. Grind a sharp point on the tang for perforating sheets. A piece of rubber stuck on the tang end answers the double purpose of a protector and eraser. The file part is used for finishing points on pencils.

Varnishing Bases for Electric Apparatus

It is quite difficult to keep from making finger marks on freshly varnished boards used as bases on electric devices. It is easily avoided, however, by procuring a large spool and fastening it to the bottom of the base with a wood screw. The spool will serve as a handle while the varnish is applied, and also makes a stand for the board while the varnish dries.--Contributed by Jacob Laudan, Louisville, Ky.

Waterproof Shoe Dressing

Melt some tallow and, while it is hot, put in some scraps of rubber from old rubber shoes or boots. Be careful to select rubber that is free from cloth. Put in as much of the rubber as the tallow will absorb. Stir freely while it is melting, and keep it away from any flames. Allow it to cool and set away for future use. Take enough for immediate use and warm it sufficiently so that it may be applied with a brush.--Contributed by F. S. Cummings, Detroit, Mich.

An Adjustable Bench Stop

A simple adjustable bench stop for light work may be made from a piece of 1-in. broom handle and a piece of piano wire. Plane a flat surface on the broom stick and drill two 1/16-in. holes, about 1/4 in. deep, 1/4 in. from each end. Bend the ends of the wire to enter the holes and have the wire of such length as to give it a slight curve between the ends when it is in place on the stick.

Bore a 1-in. hole through the bench top where it is desired to use the stop and cut several grooves, as shown, in the walls of the hole with a compass saw. The spring wire will slide into a groove and hold the stick wherever it is set. The position of the face can be changed by inserting the stick so that the wire will enter the right groove.--Contributed by Alan H. Andrews, Fall River, Mass.

A Crochet Hook

In making some kinds of lace work different-sized hooks must be used as the work proceeds. Considerable time will be lost in changing from one hook to another, if they are separate. The best way is to mount all the hooks necessary on one handle, as shown in the sketch. The handle part is made of a large wire or small rod, bent to the shape shown and with holes drilled through the ends for a small rivet. The ends of the hooks are drilled or bent to fit on the rivet. A small tin ferrule is made to slip over the handle and the hooks not in use. All hooks but the one in use are turned back into the handle and the ferrule slipped into place.--Contributed by Miss Nita S. Ingle, W. Toledo, O.

Writing Board for Children

A writing desk for a child can be easily made as shown in the sketch. The materials necessary are a board of suitable size, two screwhooks, four screweyes and a pair of rods for braces. The hooks are screwed into the back of a chair and the screweyes into the board, as shown. This desk is instantly attached or taken down when desired. If the chair is light and apt to tip over, make the rods long-enough to reach to the floor.--Contributed by John V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.

Geometric Principle in Line Division

When sketching a plan, if any one of the first few lines drawn is found to be the proper length, then this line can be made into a scale by the geometric rule for dividing a given line into equal parts.

Suppose, for example, the line AB, which is to represent 12 ft., is found to be 1 ft. long. Draw a line, AC, at any angle from the point A and step off on it 12 equal parts, beginning at A. The last point, or the one at C, is connected to the end B, then eleven other lines are drawn parallel with CB. Thus AB will make a scale of 1 in. to each 1 ft.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Repairing a Broken Whip

Procure a piece of thin tin--the metal taken from a discarded fruit can will do--and cut it about 2-1/2 in. long and wide enough to encircle the break. Notch the ends like saw teeth and remove any sharp edges with a file. Place the tin on the break and tie temporarily. Wind the whole from end to end with a waxed linen thread, such as used by harness makers. The threads lying alternately on the whip and on metal at the notched ends eliminate any possibility of the parts working loose. A break near the small and flexible end of a whip is repaired in the same manner, using a quill instead of the tin. In either case, do not let the edges of the splicing material meet, and it will clamp tightly on the whip.--Contributed by W. S. Kingsley, W. Gouldsboro, Me.

Repairing a Worn Thimble

Silver thimbles are easily worn through at the end, and they can be quickly repaired by soldering from the inside. A very neat repair can be made with an alcohol lamp and a blowpipe by using a little silver solder. Borax or resin is used as a flux.

A Small Torch