Chapter XVIII: Part IV: Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait (11)
If the next ball stays in bucket No. 4, the man on third base is forced home, as well as the one who scored the home run, making three runs for that inning. The runs should be scored as made, to guard against confusion and argument.--Contributed by Walter Talley, Pottsville, Pa.
A Staple Puller
With nothing but ordinary tools the removing of staples is tedious and difficult work. If a suitable-sized wire nail is bent like a fishhook and the hook part driven under the staple, the latter can be easily pulled out by grasping and pulling the nail with a hammer in the usual way.--Contributed by R. Neland, Minneapolis, Minn.
A Dissolving Coin Trick
This is a very simple and effective trick. The articles required to perform the trick are, a glass of water, a silver dollar, a handkerchief and a watch crystal, or round piece of glass, the size of a silver dollar. Conceal the crystal in the palm of the hand and show the audience the dollar. Hold the handkerchief in one hand and place the hand holding the silver dollar and crystal under it so that the crystal can be grasped by the hand holding the handkerchief. Remove the dollar by holding it in the palm of the hand and slip it, unobserved, into a pocket.
Ask some one in the audience to hold the handkerchief with the inclosed crystal and ask him to let it drop into the glass of water as the handkerchief covers both. The falling glass can be heard, but upon removing the handkerchief nothing can be seen of the dollar or watch crystal. The circular glass disk cannot be seen in the water.--Contributed by Albert Biery, Spokane, Wash.
A Fruit-Jar Opener
The accompanying sketch shows a handy device for turning up and unscrewing the covers on glass fruit jars. The loop is slipped over the cover and the handle turned in the direction of the arrow. To unscrew the cover, the tool is turned over and the handle turned in the opposite direction.
The loop should be just large enough to slip over the cover easily. It is made of leather and fastened to the wood handle with screws.--Contributed by J. B. Downer, Seattle, Wash.
Anti-Tangle Safety Pin
A small disk of rubber or leather, placed on a safety pin as shown in Fig. 1, will prevent the fabric which is fastened by the pin from becoming tangled in the spring loop. The manner of using the pin is shown in Fig. 2.
How to Nickel or Silverplate Iron by Friction
The following methods of plating iron with nickel and silver appeared in a recent issue of a German paper. In nickelplating iron, a thin coating of copper is first produced on it by rubbing on a solution of 20 parts sulphate of copper, 5 parts sulphuric acid and 100 parts of water. After the copper plate has been formed rub over it, with a rag, a solution of 3 parts tin, 6 parts nickel and 1 part iron in 100 parts of hydrochloric acid and 3 parts of sulphuric acid. If finally the object is rubbed with a rag that has been dipped in finely pulverized zinc, a nickel deposit will be formed on the copper. The thickness of the deposit of nickel can be increased by repeating the two last operations.
According to a recent patent, a silver coating can be produced by dissolving freshly precipitated chloride of silver in a solution of hyposulphite of soda, 1.1 parts to 10 parts of water, and adding to this solution 180 parts spirits of sal ammoniac and then stirring in 800 parts of finely washed chalk. This mixture is applied and rubbed until it dries on the object being silvered, and the result is a brilliant deposit of pure silver.
* * * * *
A good filling for cracks in old furniture is made of
shellac, either melted by heat or dissolved in alcohol
to make a thick paste.
A Homemade Cradle
The cradle shown in the sketch can be made quickly and easily at home and will be found far more serviceable than, and possessing several advantages over, the ones purchased. It is made of a clothes basket, an iron rod and two ordinary chairs. It can be taken down and the parts used for other purposes. The upper portion of the rod prevents the chairs from slipping. A light cloth can be placed over the rod, in tent fashion, to keep flies out, while at the same time permitting air for ventilation.--Contributed by Bert Verne, San Diego, Cal.
A Removable Post
It is often desirable to have football and baseball grounds in public parks roped in during the game, but after the game the ropes and stakes must be removed. To drive in iron stakes and then remove them is hard work and requires considerable time. The sketch shows a much better way. A piece of 2-in. pipe, about 18 in. long, is sunk level with the ground in the right location for a post. The post is made of 1-1/2-in. pipe of the length desired. This will just fit inside of the 2-in. pipe. A wood plug is fitted in the upper end of the pipe in the ground to keep out dirt when the post is removed.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.
String-and-Ball Trick
The stopping of a ball on a string at any desired point is understood by almost every person, but to make one that can be worked only when the operator so desires is a mysterious trick. Procure a wooden ball, about 2 in. in diameter, and cut it into two equal parts. Insert a small peg in the flat surface of one half, a little to one side of the center, as shown, and allow the end to project about 3/16 in. The flat surface of the other half is cut out concave, as shown, to make it 1/2 in. deep. The two halves are then glued together, and a hole is drilled centrally on the division line for a string to pass through.
To do the trick, hold an end of the string in each hand tightly and draw it taut with the ball at the top, then slacken the string enough to allow the ball to slide down the string. To stop the ball at any point, pull the string taut.
Before handing the ball and string out for inspection, push the string from each side of the ball and turn it slightly to throw it off the peg. This will allow the string to pass freely through the ball, and it cannot be stopped at will. To replace the string reverse the operation.--Contributed by Wm. O. Swett, Chicago.
Wall-Paper Cleaner
The following mixture I have used with the best results for years. Thoroughly mix together 3 pt. of wheat flour and 1 pt. of powdered whiting, then add sufficient water to make a dough. To clean a dirty papered wall, take a piece of the dough that can be easily grasped in the hand, press it against the surface and make a long stroke downward. During the process of cleaning, keep kneading the dirt into the dough. The preparation can be mixed in any amount desired by using the proportions named.--Contributed by C. W. Bause, Jr., E. Troy, Wis.
Revolving Shaft without Power
The device illustrated seems paradoxical for it apparently works without any power being applied to it, making from two to three revolutions per hour, which, though slow, is nevertheless motion, requiring energy.
The shaft A is supported on the edges, in the bearings B and C, of a tank, D. A disk, E, having a central hole larger in diameter than the shaft, is located at the middle of the latter. The disk is supported by 12 or more cotton ropes, F. The tank is filled to the level G with water. The lower ropes, being immersed in the water, shrink and lift the disk slightly above the center in the position of an eccentric, as shown by the dotted lines in the sketch. The center of gravity of the disk in this position, being higher and slightly to one side of the shaft, the disk has a tendency to turn around. The motion drives the next rope into the water where it becomes soaked and shrinkage takes place again, lifting the disk to a higher position, while the rope coming out of the water dries out. The ropes emerging from the water but not yet thoroughly dry cause the upper part of the disk to be in an eccentric position laterally with reference to the center of the shaft, thus causing the center of gravity to be not only above but also slightly to one side.--Contributed by Charles Roberts, Brooklyn, N. Y.
A Paper-Bag Holder
A holder, to accommodate the different-sized bags used in a store, can be easily made of a board, 6 in. wide and 30 in. long. One edge of the board is cut with notches similar to the teeth of a ripsaw and their back-sloping edges are drilled to admit a nail point. A sufficient quantity of bags is placed in a pile and a nail is driven through the edge near their upper ends, and the projecting point of the nail is stuck into one of the holes. Proceed in the same manner with bags of other sizes. To remove a bag, take hold of the lower end of the outermost one and tear it from the nail. Be sure to drive the nails through the bags close to the top.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.
Covering for Chalk Trays
The chalk trays fitted at the lower edge of blackboards soon collect considerable chalk dust and the chalk sticks dropped into it are, therefore, disagreeable to handle. A simple way of keeping the sticks clean is to cover the trays with wire mesh which is shaped like a tray but not so deep as the chalk tray. Thus the chalk dust will fall through this screen and be out of the way of the sticks.
A Curtain Hanger
A close-coiled spring, about 1/4 in. in diameter, makes a much better hanger for a short curtain than a small rod. The spring should be about 1 in. shorter than the width of the window and fastened with screwhooks. The spring is preferable not only because it is less apt to tear the fabric, as it will give some if the curtain is pulled, but also for the reason that it is much easier to put it through the hem than the rod.--Contributed by Walter Ramm, New York City.
Joints for Model Aeroplane
In constructing model or toy aeroplanes the strips used are so slender that it is difficult to join them at the ends with brads without splitting them. If glue is used, there is danger of breaking two or more ribs, should it be necessary to remove a broken or defective rib.
An empty 22-gauge long cartridge can be formed into an elbow that will connect the framework accurately, give more strength than glue or brads, and allow a broken section to be removed without spoiling the other part of the framework. File off the end A, Fig. 1, so that the shell will form a straight tube, and file as shown in Fig. 2 with a three-cornered file. Then bend the two sections into the form shown in Fig. 3 and solder the adjacent edges. File off the rough spots and drill small holes, as shown, for the insertion of pins to hold the wood strips. Much time in the building of model aeroplanes can be saved by keeping a supply of these elbows on hand.
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A deep rust on tools may be removed by soaking them
in a strong, hot bath of potash and water for a half
hour, then dipping them into a solution of 1 part
muriatic acid in 2 parts cold water.
An Indoor Baseball Game
An indoor game of baseball may be played on a board 5 ft. long and 3 ft. wide. A diamond is laid off at one end of the board and pins representing the hits are attached to the board so they will project above the surface. The locations of the players are designated by holes bored part way in the wood with an expansive bit. These holes should be large enough to receive the rings easily. The rings may be gaskets or they may be made of rope, and should have an inside diameter of about 3 in.
Only two persons can play at this game. The distance from the board to the thrower may be from 10 to 100 ft., according to the size of the room. This distance should be marked and each thrower stand at the same place.
If the ring is thrown over one of the "base-hit" or "two-bagger" pegs, it shows the number of bases secured. Throwing a ring over one of the "home-run" pegs means a score, of course. The "infield hit" secures a base. If the ring slips into a hole, that counts one out. A player must throw until he has three outs. The score is kept for the runs made.--Contributed by Francis P. Hobart, Willoughby, O.
A Lantern for the Camp
A very desirable lantern for camp use is one that utilizes a candle instead of a lamp. Such a lantern can be made of an ordinary oil-lantern globe, a block of wood, some galvanized wire, a few nails, a metal collar, and a hood of zinc or tin. The block of wood is cut octagonally and the metal collar is fastened to it as shown. Four headless nails are driven into the center of the block, spaced so as to hold an ordinary candle securely. The wire is formed into a U-shape and the ends fastened into the block of wood outside of the candle socket, and within the globe circle. A conical piece of tin or zinc is formed to fit over the top of the globe as shown. As the candle does not require much draft there is no opening provided.--Contributed by Addison W. Baird, M. D., New York City.
Electric Lights Controlled from Two or More Switches
Many times it is quite an advantage to have a lamp or group of lamps so connected that the current may be turned on or off by any one of a number of different switches. For example, the lights in a long hall or passage-way can be lighted or extinguished by operating a switch at either end of the hall; the lights in the upper and lower halls of a residence, turned on or off by operating a switch upstairs or downstairs as the case might demand; the lights in the garage, controlled by switches at both the inside and outside door, etc.
The method of connecting a number of lamps to a circuit so that they can be controlled from either of two switches is shown in Fig. 1. The switches, as illustrated in this drawing, are in such a position that the lamps will burn. If either of the switches be thrown to its other position (there are two positions for each switch), the circuit will be opened. The operation then of either switch will again close the circuit.
The method of connecting a number of lamps to a circuit so that they can be controlled by any number of switches is shown in Fig. 2. The switches are all in such a position that the lamps will burn. If any one of the switches be turned to its second position (all the switches have two positions), the circuit will be open. The dotted lines at switch C show the connections through switch C after it has been operated. Operating switch D then will again close the circuit, by using the dotted lines in switches C and D. The wiring for the control of lamps, as just indicated, must comply with the underwriters' requirements, and also city requirements, if the work be done in a place having city regulations for electric wiring.
* * * * *
Wire netting may be cut by laying it on the side edge
of a spade and striking it with a hammer.
Electric Score Board for Indoor Games
A very satisfactory electric score board, for use in scoring basketball and other games played indoors, is shown in the illustration. It is constructed entirely of wood, but should be lined with asbestos board or sheathing. The dimensions are a matter of choice, but one 4 ft. long, 2 ft. wide and 18 in. deep is a good size. The back of the box is provided with two cleats, each 2-1/2 ft. long, fastened at each end. This allows a projection of 3 in. at the top and bottom, for fastening the score board to the wall. The manner of construction is shown in Fig. 1, and a cross section of the box, in Fig. 2.
The front of the box should be fastened with screws so as to make its removal easy in case of repairs. This part of the box carries the frame for inserting the numbers and the words "Home Team" and "Visitors," as shown in Fig. 3. As the words are a permanent fixture, the cards carrying them are fastened to the front. At the end of these words a frame is constructed as shown in Fig. 4, in which the cards having the numbers are inserted in slides.
Numerals and letters can be cut out of heavy cardboard or tin. The design of a letter having sharp angles and straight edges, as shown in Fig. 5, is very easily cut out with a chisel. The method of cutting is shown in Fig. 6.
As portions of the letters and numerals, such as the center in an O, would fall out if cut entirely around, some way must be provided to hold the parts in place. The way to prepare stencils is to leave a portion uncut, which is known as a tie, and the letter will appear as shown in Fig. 7.
The best method for making these letters and figures is to cut out the letter entirely, then to paste thin paper over the back and replace the parts removed by the cutting in their original position.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
A Mission Frame for an Alarm Clock
The old nickelplated alarm clock which usually adorns the kitchen mantel is, to say the least, not ornamental, and I improved the appearance of mine without lessening its usefulness by making a small case in mission style for it.
The sketch shows a design which is neat and easily made. Accurate dimensions cannot be given as these will vary with the size of the clock. Quarter-sawed oak, 1/4 in. thick, is the best material to use. The front and back can be cut on a jigsaw, the opening for the clock face being cut slightly smaller than the metal of the clock so that only the face shows. An opening in the back piece should be cut a little smaller than the one in front, to provide a free opening for winding the clock. Fasten the parts together with small round-head brass brads or screws and finish to match the furniture. A small desk clock can be made in a similar manner, using a cheap watch instead of the alarm clock.--Contributed by C. E. Hamann, Somerville, Mass.
Mixing Sulphuric Acid
One of the first lessons given a student in chemistry is how to mix sulphuric acid with water. This would naturally be supposed to be very easy, yet, if it is not done right, it will surely result in injury to the person doing the mixing.
The specific gravity of sulphuric acid is 1.849 and, on account of its chemical attraction to water, great heat is set up or generated when the two are being mixed. If the acid is put into a jar and the water poured onto it, they will be temporarily separated, as the heavy acid will remain at the bottom, the chemical reaction taking place on the dividing line only. This soon generates heat which rapidly increases until steam is formed. Then the water boils over and finally becomes a bubbling volcano which readily ejects the contents of the jar. As the mixture at this moment is very hot, bad burns will be the result, which are aggravated by the biting of the acid; and clothing or anything that it comes in contact with will be ruined or badly damaged. Always remember this caution: add the acid to the water.
The following is the proper way to proceed in mixing sulphuric acid as well as other acids of lighter weight. Place the water in a jar and pour the acid in, a little at a time, stirring the mixture with a wooden stick. The mixing process will always heat the solution, which in many instances, must be allowed to cool before using.
A Chinese Pagoda
Fold the end of a long and narrow strip of paper over several times as shown in Fig. 1 and roll the entire length over a stick, then remove the roll and crease, or make it flat, as shown in Fig. 2. Make two cuts with a sharp knife centrally so that they reach to the several folds first made on the inner end of the paper, then cut the fold in the paper between the cuts as shown in Fig. 3, and bend the ends over to form the shape in Fig. 4. Insert the knife blade under the first fold and draw it out until the paper takes the form in Fig. 5.
These pagodas can be made large or small, as desired, and also varied in several ways. Large ones can be formed and used as small tree ornaments. All that is necessary to make them high is to roll up one strip of paper on another in the rolling process.
In rolling up several strips, one on top of the other successively, various colored papers may be used and the appearance is greatly enhanced.--Contributed by Chas. C. Bradley, W. Toledo, O.
A Cuspidor Carrier
The task of handling cuspidors under all conditions is anything but pleasant, but the carrier shown in the sketch makes quite an improvement over ordinary methods. The carrier consists of an iron rod, 1/4 in. in diameter and 3 ft. long. One end is bent to fit around the neck of the cuspidor and the other is shaped into a handle.
Guide for Grinding a Plane Iron
When a plane iron has been sharpened a number of times, it often becomes so out of square that the edge cannot be made parallel with the bottom of the plane block, even by using the lateral adjustment. Where this happens, the plane iron must be reground. If an emery wheel mounted in a polishing head or lathe is at hand, this can be easily accomplished. Loosen the plane-iron cap and screw it down at right angles to the plane iron, also reverse the tool rest as shown in the sketch. In this way the work can be done better and more quickly than by the usual method.--Contributed by L. S. Uphoff, Schenectady, N. Y.
To Prevent Torch Lights from Smoking
In the shop or factory oil torches are sometimes used and much trouble is experienced by the excessive smoking of the flame. This occurs because too much carbon remains unburned, and can be remedied by first soaking the wick in a weak solution of acetic acid. A 5-per-cent solution can be purchased for a few cents at any drug store and will soak a great number of wicks. The acid is not poisonous unless taken internally.
A Lard and Fruit Presser
A very simple but handy device for pressing out lard, juices for jelly, or fruit for marmalade, is made from two boards, each 18 in. long, 3 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick, formed into the shape of paddles and hinged together. The hinge is made by running a wire through holes bored in one end of the paddles and twisting the ends together as shown. This presser will save the hands from stains and other effects of the juices.--Contributed by Julia A. White, Glenburg, Pa.
An Electric-Light Bulb as Barometer
To use a discarded electric bulb as a fairly reliable barometer the point is broken off with a pair of pliers while holding the bulb under water. As the bulb is a vacuum, it completely fills with water. If the bulb is now suspended from a wire or thread fastened at the socket end, the water will not run out of it in fair weather when the atmospheric pressure is normal or high, but if the pressure falls, as happens when bad weather is approaching, the water will begin to bulge out of the small opening and sometimes a small drop may even fall off. When, with returning fair weather, the atmospheric pressure increases, the water can no longer bulge or drop out of the bulb.
A Swinging-Pendulum Trick
To swing a pendulum, picked out from a number of them at random, without touching it is a very puzzling trick. The articles necessary are a medium-sized table and a number of pendulums, some of which are suspended from a rod with their lower weighted ends inside of water and wine glasses placed on the table, and others attached to corks so that they will hang inside of bottles.
The spectators gather around the table which can be in full light. The performer sits at one side of the table with his hands flat on the top. A person may pick out any pendulum and ask him to swing it, which he will proceed to do without touching it, also making it strike the glass while it swings. Another pendulum may be pointed out and he will start that one apparently by looking at it, while the other one stops.
This may seem to be impossible, yet it is very easy. It will be seen that no two pendulums have the same length. A pendulum makes a certain number of swings in a given time, depending on its length. A long pendulum requires more time to complete its swing and will, therefore, make a less number of swings than a short one in the same time. It is only necessary to move the table slightly and watch the pendulum picked out until it begins to swing independently of the others, which soon happens. To make the longer pendulums swing, longer movements of the table top must be made. With a little practice anyone can become a skilled medium in pendulum swinging.--Contributed by James A. Hart, Philadelphia, Pa.
Applying a Strap Hinge
An ordinary strap hinge can be applied to a door or box cover in such a way that only one wing will show. Ordinarily the hinge opens as at A, and, on reversing it, the hinge will open to the limit as shown at B. If one wing is bent toward the other, as shown at C, the hinge may be applied, as shown at D. As this process reverses the hinge, the screw holes must be countersunk on the opposite side.
Tricks Performed with Thumbs Tied Together
To have one's thumbs securely tied together by any person in an audience and examined by the spectators, then have some one throw a hoop or bicycle rim on one of the performer's arms as if the thumbs were not tied, seems impossible, yet this trick can be done, and its simplicity is its own protection, even though performed close to a committee selected from the audience. A stick can be held perpendicularly by anyone with one hand at each end and the performer can thrust his arms at the stick which passes between them with the thumbs apparently tied tightly together. The same effect is produced on the arm of any person, while the hands are tightly clasped, and before and after each movement the tied thumbs are examined by the committee.
The two cords used for the trick are made as follows: The first should be about 17 in. long, 1/4 in. in diameter at its center and tapering to points at the ends. The other cord is about 13 in. long, 1/8 in. in diameter in the center and also tapering at the ends. They are constructed of Chinese or Japanese paper, which is a soft, but very tough, fibrous texture. Cut the paper into strips, 1 in. wide, taking care that the grain, or rather the fiber, runs lengthwise. Beginning at one end, twist the paper on itself at an angle as in rolling the old-fashioned paper lamp lighter. Each turn should lap over the former about half of its width. When within 3 in. of the end of the first strip apply another by moistening the joining ends and continue the twisting. When the length given is reached, break off the strip and start back over the first in the opposite direction. Lay on enough layers to secure the diameter given. When finished, the cords should be strong enough to resist the pressure applied by the hands.
With all fingers pressed together spread both thumbs away from the hands, as shown at A. Lay the right thumb across the left, as at B, the large knuckle bone of one lying directly over that of the other. The largest cord is laid over the crossing and both ends brought down, crossed under the thumbs, then up again, and tied in two knots on top of the right thumb, as at C. The trick in the tying is at this point. Just as the tie is being made pull the left thumb until the smallest-diameter joints reach the cord and pull down with the left hand. Push the right thumb so that the fleshy part enters as far as possible into the cords. Insist on the tie being made tightly.
The second and smaller cord is laid below the right thumb as shown at D, and on top of the left against the first cord, crossed, brought back and tied twice. When this is being done reverse the pushing and pulling as described, pushing the left thumb and pulling out on the right. Secure all the slack on the left thumb, the right being pushed into the cords at its smallest diameter and the second cord being tied high up and as near the right thumb as possible, with knots tightly drawn. If this second knot is not tight it will give trouble in performing the trick.
The release is made by bringing the tips of the fingers together and placing the thumbs into the palms. If the ties have been carefully made there will be no trouble to withdraw the left thumb as it is masked by the hands. The peculiar nature of the paper cord causes the loop from which the thumb was removed to remain open and rigid as a wire loop, and if the last tie was tightly drawn, the second cord will not slip down to close the loop. In approaching the hoop, stick, or arm, touch the thing to be passed with the finger tips and withdraw them, swaying backward a few times and, in the last swing before making the pass, remove the thumb from the loop. After passing, replace the thumb in the loop. In passing the object, open the finger tips, then close them and open the palms, and push the left thumb back into the loop, close the palms and apply a strain on both thumbs, then show the tie. Be careful to press both thumbs closely into the palms in passing so that they will not strike the object.
Always exhibit the tie from the back of the hands with the palms spread out. If there is any difficulty in drawing out or replacing the thumb in the loop, it is because the ties have not been properly made or tied when the thumbs were in the right place. It requires some practice to do the trick quickly.--Fayette.
A Way to Keep Home Accounts
An easy way to keep track of all the home expenses is by the popular card system. The index cards can be had at any stationery-supply house. Place the cards in a box on end and have a good supply of blanks back of them ready for use. Under, or back of, each letter place as many blanks as is necessary, and almost instantly any item of expense in the home may be found, such as the cost of coal for the year, drugs, meat, the cost of clothing for a child, and the account of the head of the family. The boy's account might read as follows under the letter J:
Johnnie
Jan. 3 Shoes $3.50
Jan. 15 Book .45
Jan. 29 Hair cut .25
Feb. 1 Stockings .75
and so on through the year. The mother can see at a glance just when the last shoes were bought, and how much it cost for books and paper.
Everything pertaining to the home keeping can be so recorded and each year compared. Once given a trial no other bookkeeping will be required in the home where time counts. Children can be taught to keep account of their expenses in this way, and thus thrift and good business methods are encouraged.--Contributed by Harriette I. Lockwood, Philadelphia, Pa.
How to Make a Blowgun
Either a 12-in. length of a small curtain-rod tubing or a straight piece of small bamboo pole, cut off between the joints, can be used for the gun part of this simple device. If bamboo is used, see that it is cleaned out smoothly on the inside.
The dart used in the gun is shown at A in the illustration. It is made by threading the eye of a darning needle full of yarn, clipping all the strands off to a uniform length of about 3/4 in., and then picking out the fibers into a brushlike mass above the needle's eye. Another needle or pin can be used for fuzzing the threads. The point to observe is that the brush is of somewhat larger diameter than the bore of the gun, so that when the needle is pushed into the mouth end the brush will be compressed and make an air-tight plug.
After thus inserting the dart, hold it as shown and give a quick, sharp blast of the breath into the gun. The dart will travel with great speed and accuracy for 20 ft. or more, and stick wherever it strikes. The point being so small, it can be used in the house for shooting at a paper target pinned to the wall without injury to the plaster or woodwork.--Contributed by C. C. Fraser, Saginaw, Mich.
A Brush for Applying Soldering Acid
A good brush for applying acid to articles for soldering can be made of a piece of small copper pipe for the handle, and fine copper wire for the brush. To make the brush part, take a piece of cardboard, about 1-1/4 in. wide, and wind several turns of No. 28 gauge copper wire around it, then remove the coil, insert about 1/2 in. of it in the pipe, and flatten the latter to hold the wire. Clip the ends of the wire, and a brush will be had that ordinary acids will not affect. If only a short piece of pipe is available, it can be used as a ferrule and a handle made of wire or wood.--Contributed by A. R. Cunning, W. New Brighton, N. Y.
Inkwell and Penholder
An empty paste pot with a water well in the center makes an excellent inkwell and penholder. Fill the exterior well A with cement or plaster of paris, push the number of penholders to be held into the cement before it sets, moving them about occasionally to prevent the cement from sticking to them and to make the hole a little larger than the holder. The part B is for the ink.--Contributed by R. F. Pinkney, Lazareto del Mariel, Cuba.
A Homemade Loose-Leaf Pocket Memorandum
The little memorandum illustrated herewith is very handy to carry in the coat or vest pocket for taking notes, etc. Loose leaves may be supplied with very little trouble. It consists of a fold of paper, cut as shown and pasted at the ends. The pocket thus formed will easily hold 2 doz. sheets and the slits cut on the outside will admit 8 sheets.--Contributed by C. B. Hanson, Fitchburg, Mass.
* * * * *
An ideal cleaner for kid gloves is carbon
tetrachloride.
Rubber-Band-Change Trick
The trick of changing a rubber band from the first and second fingers to the third and fourth, if done quickly, can be performed without detection by any one. The band on the first two fingers is shown to the spectator as in Fig. 1, with the back of the hand up. The hand is then turned over and the band drawn out quickly, as shown in Fig. 2, in a manner as to give the impression that the band is whole and on the two fingers. While doing this, quickly fold all the fingers so that their ends enter the band, and turn the hand over and let go the band, then show the back with the fingers doubled up. In reality the fingers will be in the band, as in Fig. 3, and the back will still show the band on the first two fingers. Quickly straighten out all the fingers, and the band will snap over the last two fingers, as shown in Fig. 4.--Contributed by E. K. Marshall, Oak Park, Ill.
A Swinging Electric-Light Bracket
The light bracket shown is both ornamental and useful and can be swung from one side of the room to the other in an instant, a feature that is of great value in a dimly lighted kitchen. It can be made of either brass or soft iron, but, for the sake of convenience, the description will be for one made of brass.
Procure four pieces of brass, 1 in wide, 1/8 in. thick and 7 in. long, and bend them to the shape shown at A. These are to form the ceiling bracket. A 3/16-in. hole is drilled in the end of each piece to be against the ceiling. The other end is bent slightly concave and soldered to a brass collar, B, which is threaded on the inside. This collar must be of such a size that it will screw on the end of a brass pipe, C, 1 in. in outside diameter. The length of this pipe should be 18 or 20 inches.
The base D of the bracket is made of a brass bar, 1/8 in. thick, 1/2 in. wide and 45 in. long, a scroll being turned on 6 in. of its length at the globe end, and 3 in. of the other end turned up at right angles and soldered to a ring made of 1/16-in. brass that acts as a bearing around the pipe.
The upper brace E is made of 1/16-in. brass, the same width as the base piece and about 48 in. in length. Each end is turned into a scroll and then riveted or soldered to the base D and to the upper brass ring. The space between the base D, the brace E, and the pipe C is filled with any style of scroll or other brace that may suit the taste of the maker, but the base D must be at right angles to the pipe C before the scroll is fastened in place.
A cap, F, is screwed to the lower end of the pipe, to keep the bracket in place. Ordinary flexible light cord is used to connect to the light which is swung to the scroll end of the base.--Contributed by F. L. Matter, Portland, Oregon.
Match Safe to Deliver One Match at a Time
A match safe that will deliver only one match at a time is constructed of two parts, the box or holder and the base, with slider. The box is diamond-shaped and of the size shown by the dimensions. The base, with slider, consists of two pieces, the baseboard and a standard which runs through the box diagonally on the longest dimension in a vertical position. A thumbtack is inserted in the standard near the top to prevent the box from being lifted entirely from the base.
The matches are filled into the box on both sides of the standard. When a match is wanted, lift the box up and let it down again, and one match will be caught in the notch and raised out of the box. To prevent the box from tipping sideways when it is raised up, small pieces can be glued to the box ends on the inside and on both sides of the standard.--Contributed by A. S. Barrows, New Britain, Conn.
Cartridge Shells Used for Electrical Contacts
In making small switchboards, rheostats, and other electrical devices, I found a good use for old center-fire cartridge shells as shown in the sketch. A hole a little smaller than the diameter of the shell is made in the board and the shell is forced in. The proper wires are then soldered to the metal on the inside, or the wire may be placed inside of the shell and held in contact by driving a wood plug in as indicated.--Contributed by W. O. Nettleton, Washington, D. C.
A Dowel-Turning Tool
The owner of a wood or metal lathe can easily construct a tool that will turn dowels of any size quickly. This tool, as described by a correspondent of Work, London, consists of a block of wood, shaped as shown at A, and a plane bit, B, attached with a wood screw. The hole in the collet C must be of such size that it will admit the rough stock freely but also prevent it from wabbling as the stick turns. The stock is chucked in the ordinary manner and the tool is run on the outer end.
To Tie a Hammock
A method not generally known to quickly and securely hitch up a hammock between two trees, in camp or elsewhere, is shown in the sketch. Each end rope is given one or more turns around a tree trunk and then tucked under, as shown. The pull on the rope will draw it tightly against the rough bark on the tree. The harder the pull, the tighter the rope binds against the tree trunk. In this manner a hammock can be put up in a few moments and it is as readily taken down.--Contributed by Bert Morehouse, Des Moines, Iowa.
An Inexpensive File
Envelopes make a very inexpensive as well as a neat file for papers and letters if they are arranged and fastened together so that they can be kept in one packet. In making such a file procure as many envelopes as there will be headings in the file, also a number of strips of gummed tape, about 1-1/2 in. long. There must be twice as many of these strips as there are envelopes.
Bind the backs of two envelopes, A and B, together leaving a space of 1/8 in. between the envelopes. Bind a third envelope, C, to B, and so on. The strips of tape from A to B and from B to C are on opposite sides of the envelope B. Continue binding until the required number of envelopes have been joined together. Assign a heading to each of the envelopes, and the file is ready for use. When completed it should appear as shown in D.--Contributed by Alfred Rice, Syracuse, N. Y.
Window-Shade Guides
The annoyance of a shade that will not run true on the roller and flops in the wind coming through an open window can be overcome by using guide wires as follows:
The stick in the hem on the lower edge of the shade is supplied with a screweye, A, at each end. A wire is run through the screweye and fastened in a vertical position on the casing with screweyes as shown by B, B. A second wire is similarly attached on the other side of the shade, taking care to have both wires parallel and true with the ends of the roller.--Contributed by George Lue, San Francisco, California.
Watering Plants at the Roots
An effective way to water rose bushes, shrubs or plants is to place an old cowhorn in the earth so that the small end will be near the roots of the plant and the large end level with the surface of the ground, and fill the horn with water. The small end of the horn should be cut off at such a point that the hole will be about the size of a lead pencil.--Contributed by Chas. L. Richards, Philadelphia, Pa.
How to Clean Jewelry
To cleanse articles of silver, gold, bronze and brass use a saturated solution of cyanide of potassium. To clean small articles, dip each one into the solution and rinse immediately in hot water; then dry and polish with a linen cloth. Larger articles are cleaned by rubbing the surface with a small tuft of cotton saturated in the solution. As cyanide of potassium is a deadly poison, care must be taken not to have it touch any sore spot on the flesh.--Contributed by G. A. Koerbis, U. S. S. "Vermont."
Runner for a Go-Cart
As the wheels of a go-cart do not push through the snow very easily and the cart, therefore, does not run in a straight direction, and as I did not care to purchase a sled, I instead fitted the go-cart wheels with runners as shown in the sketch. I purchased a piece of machine steel of a diameter to fit the grooves in the wheels after the rubber tires were removed. This I cut and bent to the shape shown at A, making two runners, and applied one to each pair of wheels, front and rear, as shown at B. The runners kept the wheels immovable and caused the cart to glide over the snow as a sleigh. This runner will not interfere with the folding of a collapsible cart.--Contributed by Roy B. Hanaford, Detroit, Mich.
A Ring-Throwing Game
The board for this game is made of a cover from an old candy or lard pail, washed and painted black. When the paint is dry, place 50 pegs on the surface as shown and number them with white paint or by fastening numbers cut from paper below them. The numbering of the pegs is not consecutive, but low and high numbers distributed with the object in view of making it difficult to secure a high score.
Each player has a set of five rings, which are nothing else but rubber fruit-jar rings. These can be purchased at a grocery store. The board is hung on a wall or post, and the player stands about 5 or 6 ft. away and throws the rings, one at a time, trying to ring pegs having the highest numbers. The sum of the numbers corresponding to the pegs ringed counts toward the final score. Turns are taken by each player, and each time five rings are thrown. The score can be set at any amount, 500 being about right.--Contributed by Francis P. Hobart, Willoughby, O.
A Pen and Brush Holder
A sheet of corrugated paper is a handy thing to have on the writing desk, for the purpose of placing wet pens or brushes in its grooves. The paper absorbs the liquid, and the corrugations hold the pens or brushes in handy positions. A sheet of this paper is almost as useful a desk accessory as a blotter.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Supporter for a Double Clothesline
A double clothesline of any length should have a supporter in the center to keep the line from sagging when the clothes are hung on the lower one. The supporter shown in the sketch saves the wear from the strain on the lines. It also keeps the clothes in a higher current of air so that they dry quicker.
The supporter is made of two nickelplated rings measuring 2 in. in diameter. They are bound together as shown. The rings being nickelplated, the supporter will not rust the clothes. The clothes should be arranged on the lower line so that the supporter will rest in the center.--Contributed by Katharine D. Morse, Syracuse, New York.
Pincushion for the Arm
Those that have trouble in keeping the pincushion within reach while sewing, can remedy the trouble by making one to fit the wrist or arm. An ordinary pincushion is attached to a piece of cardboard and an elastic sewed to the cardboard edges so that it will fit on the arm. The pincushion is not in the way and is readily worn so that the pins are easier to reach than if pinned to the dress.--Contributed by Frank Sterrett, Portland, O.
Electric Test for Fixtures
A very useful device for testing out fixtures before they are connected up can be easily made as follows: Two wires are run from a plug, A, one to a socket, B, and the other to terminate at C. The line from the other side of the socket B terminates at D.
In testing a fixture, the plug A is turned into a socket of some source of current, and a lamp is turned into the socket B. The terminal C is held to the metal covering of the fixture, while the end D is held to one of the wires. If there is a leak of current, the lamp at B and those of the fixture will light up.--Contributed by Fred Schumacher, Brooklyn, N. Y.
Opening for Steam in a Utensil Cover
When cooking certain foods the ordinary cover on a vessel confines too much steam, while if no cover at all is used, too much will escape, hence a cover which is provided with a vent is very desirable. The cover attachment shown in the illustration is evidently well adapted for service on such occasions and can be easily made as follows:
Lay out a small triangle on some level part of the cover and punch several holes inside of the lines. Cut a cap, A, from a piece of tin to cover the holes. A small projection on the edge of the cap serves to swing it one way or the other, as needed, and it is fastened loosely to the cover with a soft-copper rivet, so that it may be easily opened.
Drying Seeds
A good way to dry tomato, cantaloupe, and other seeds is to put them on blotters. They will quickly dry in this manner and will not become moldy, as the blotter soaks up the moisture.--Contributed by Theodore Becker, Kansas City, Mo.
Cleaning Clothes by Boiling Them
When cleaning clothes by boiling them in a boiler over a fire, fit in a false bottom to keep the clothes from touching the bottom. The false bottom should be perforated with holes, 3/8-in. in diameter and 1 in. apart, over the entire piece. Fasten four legs, each about 2 in. long, to the under side to make a space between the bottoms. In washing, all that is necessary is to place the clothes in the boiler and boil them. The dirt will come loose and settle through the holes and on the boiler bottom.
An Emergency Tack Puller
One day I had to pull some tacks but had no tack puller at hand. An idea came to me to use the kitchen spoon, and I found that it worked even better than a regular tack puller. The ordinary kitchen spoon usually has an edge sharp enough to get under any tack.--Contributed by H. D. Harkins, St. Louis, Mo.
A Puzzle with Figures
This puzzle is to arrange all the figures or digits, from 1 to 9 inclusively, in two rows, each containing all the digits, so that the sum in addition as well as the remainder in subtraction will have nine figures, in which all the digits are represented. There are several solutions to the puzzle, and the following is one of them:
371294568 216397845
The sum of the foregoing numbers and the remainder, when the lower row is subtracted from the upper, will both have nine figures and include all the digits from 1 to 9.--Contributed by Walter Bennett, Detroit, Mich.
To Fasten Loose Table Legs
When legs of an ordinary table become loose and unsteady they may be easily repaired as shown in the sketch. Nails do not hold well in such places and glue will not stand much washing.
The method of making the repair is to drill 1/8-in. holes through the rails on each side of the leg and insert pieces of galvanized wire of a size to fit the holes. After the wire is inserted, the ends are bent over. The illustration clearly shows the repair.--Contributed by Edwin C. Wright, Newport, Ky.
Washbasin Holder
A piece of wire formed into the shape shown in the sketch makes a handy hook to hold a washbasin when it is not in use. This keeps it out of the way and out of the dirty water which might be thrown into the kitchen sink.--Contributed by F. C. Althen, Anamosa, Iowa.
A Cleaner for Canvas Shoes
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The Boy Mechanic, Book 2: 1000 Things for Boys to DoChapter XVIII: Part IV: Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait (11)
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