Chapter XXII (10)

There are in all _America_ foure Archbishopricks, which are _Sto. Domingo, Mexico, Lima_, and _Sta. Fee_, and above thirty inferiour Bishops. The politick Administration of Justice is chiefly committed to the two Viceroyes residing at _Lima_ and _Mexico_, and with subordination unto them unto other Presidents, Governours, and high Justices, called _Alcaldes Majores_; except it be the President of _Guatemala_, and of _Santo Domingo_, who are as absolute in power as the Viceroyes, and have under them Governours, and high Justices, and are no wayes subordinate to the former Viceroyes, but onely unto the Court and Councell of _Spain_.

CHAP. XIV.

_Shewing my journey from_ Mexico _to_ Chiapa _Southward, and the most remarkable places in the way._

Having now gone round _America_ with a brief and superficiall description of it, my desire is to shew unto my Reader what parts of it I travailed through, and did abide in, observing more particularly the state, condition, strength, and Commodities of those Countries which lie Southward from _Mexico_. It is further my desire, nay the chief ground of this my History, that whilst my Country doth here observe an _English_ man, become _American_, travailing many thousand miles there, as may bee noted from St. _John de Ulhua_ to _Mexico_, and from thence Southward to _Panama_, and from thence Northward againe to _Carthagena_, and to _Havana_, Gods goodnesse may bee admired, and his providence extolled who suffered not the meanest and unworthiest of all his Creatures to perish in such unknowne Countries; to be swalled by North or South Sea, where shipwracks were often feared; to bee lost in Wildernesses where no tongue could give directions; to bee devoured by Wolves, Lions, Tigers, or Crocodiles, which there so much abound; to fall from steepy rocks and mountaines, which seeme to dwell in the aereall Region, and threaten with fearefull spectacles of deep and profound precipices, a horrid and inevitable death to those that climbe up to them; to bee eaten up by the greedy Earth which there doth often quake and tremble, and hath sometimes opened her mouth to draw in Townes and Cities; to bee stricken with those fiery darts of Heaven and thunderbolts which in winter season threaten the Rockes and Cedars; to bee inchanted by Satans Instruments, Witches and Sorcerers, who there as on their own ground play their prankes more then in the parts of Christendome; to be quite blinded with _Romish_ Errors and Superstitions, which have double blinded the purblind heathenish Idolaters; to bee wedded to the pleasures and licentiousnesse, which doe there allure; to bee glutted with the plenty and dainties of fish, flesh, fowles, and fruits, which doe there entice; to bee puffed up with the spirit of pride and powerfull command and authority over the poor _Indians_, which doth there provoke; to bee tied with the Cords of vanity and ambition, which there are strong; and finally to be glewed in heart, and affection to the drosse of gold, silver, Pearls, and Jewels, whose plenty there doth bind, blind, captivate and enslave the soule. Oh I say, let the Lords great goodnesse and wonderfull providence bee observed who suffered not an _English_ stranger in all these dangers to miscarry, but was a guide unto him there in all his travailes, discovered unto him as to the espies in _Canaan_, and as to _Joseph_ in _Egypt_ the provision, wealth and riches of that world, and safely guided him back to relate to _England_, the truth of what no other _English_ eye did ever yet behold. From the moneth of _October_ untill _February_ I did abide with my friends, and companions the Fryers under the command of Fryer _Calvo_ in that house of recreation called St. _Jacintho_, and from thence injoyed the sight of all the Townes and of what else was worth the seeing about _Mexico_. But the time I was there, I was carefull to informe myself of the state of _Philippinas_, whither my first purposes had drawne me from _Spain_. It was my fortune to light upon a Fryer and an acquaintance of some of my friends, who was that yeer newly come from _Manila_ whither I was going; who wished mee and some other of my friends as wee tendred our soules good never to goe to those parts, which were but snares and trap-dores to let downe to hell, where occasions and temptations to sinne were daily, many in number, mighty in strength, and to get out of them, _labor & opus_, hard and difficult. And that himself, had not he by stealth gotten away (and that to save his soul) certainly he had never come from thence; who had often upon his knees begged leave of his superiours to returne to _Spain_, and could not obtaine it. Many particulars wee could not get from him, nor the reasons of his coming away; Onely hee would often say that the Fryers that live there are devils in private and in those retired places where they live among the _Indians_ to instruct and teach them; and yet in publick before their superiours and the rest of Fryers they must appeare Saints, they must put on the cloak of hypocrisie to cover their inward devilishnesse, they must bee cloathed with sheeps skins though within they bee _lupi rapaces_, ravenous Wolves, ravening after their neighbours Wives, and ravening after their neighbours wealth; and yet with all this unpreparednesse, with this outward, seeming and frothy sanctity, and inward hellishnesse and deep rooted worldlinesse and covetousnesse, when the Superiours command and please to send them, they must goe in a disguised manner to _Japan_ or _China_ to convert to Christianity those people though with perill and danger of their lives. Many such like discourses wee got out of this Fryer; and that if wee went to live there, we must bee subject to the penalties of many Excommunications for triviall toyes and trifles, which the Superiours doe lay upon the Consciences of their poore Subjects, who may as soone strive against the common course of nature not to see with their eyes, nor hear with their eares, nor speake with their tongues, as to observe all those things which against sense, reason and nature with grievous censures and Excommunications are charged and fastened upon them. Hee told us further of some Fryers that had despaired under those rigorous courses, and hanged themselves, not being able to beare the burden of an afflicted and tormented Conscience; and of others that had been hanged, some for murthering of their rigid and cruell Superiours; and some that had beene found in the morning hanging with their queanes at the Cloister gates, having beene found together in the night, and so murthered and hanged up either by the true Husband, or by some other who bare affection to the woman. These things seemed to us very strange, and wee perceived that all was not gold that glistred, nor true zeal of soules that carried so many from _Spain_ to those parts; or if in some there were at first a better and truer zeale then in others, when they came to _Philippinas_, and among those strong temptations, wee found that their zeale was soone quenched. This reason moved mee and three more of my friends to relent in our purposes of leaving of _America_, and going any further, for wee had learned that _maxime, qui amat periculum, peribit inco_; and, _qui tangit picem, inquinabitur abea_; He that loveth the danger, shall fall and perish in it; and hee that toucheth pitch shall bee smeared by it. Wherefore wee communed privately with our selves, what course wee might take, how wee might that yeer return back to _Spain_, or where wee might abide, if wee returned not to _Spain_. For wee knew, if our Superiour _Calvo_ should understand of our purposes to goe no further, he would lay upon us an Excommunication to follow him, nay and that hee would secure us in a Cloister prison untill the day and time of our departure from _Mexico_. Our resolutions wee made a secret of our hearts; yet could not I but impart it to one more speciall and intimate friend of mine, who was an _Irish_ Fryer, named _Thomas de Leon_, whom I perceived a little troubled with so long a journey as was at hand, and found often wishing hee had never come from _Spain_; and as soon as I had acquainted him with what I meant to doe, hee rejoyced and promised to stay with mee. The time was short which wee had to dispose of our selves; but in that time wee addressed our selves to some _Mexican_ Fryers and made knowne unto them, that if our Superiour _Calvo_ would give us leave, wee would willingly stay in _Mexico_ or in any Cloister thereabouts, untill wee could better fit our selves to returne to _Spain_ againe. But they being natives and borne in that Countrey discovered presently unto us that inveterate spight and hatred which they bare to such as came from _Spain_; they told us plainly that they and true _Spaniards_ born did never agree, and that they knew their Superiors would bee unwilling to admit of us; yet furthermore they informed us that they thought we might be entertained in the Province of _Guaxaca_, where half the Fryers were of _Spain_ and half Criolians and Natives; but in case wee should not speed there, they would warrant us we should be welcome to the Province of _Guatemala_, where almost all the Fryers were of _Spain_, and did keep under such as were Natives born in that Country. It did a little trouble us to consider that _Guatemala_ was three hundred leagues off, and that we were ignorant of the _Mexican_ tongue, and unprovided of mony and horses for so long a journey. But yet we considered _Philippinas_ to be further, and no hopes there of returning ever again to Christendome; wherefore we resolved to rely upon Gods providence onely, and to venture upon a three hundred leagues journey with what smal means we had, and to sell what Books and small trifles we had to make as much money as might buy each of us a horse. But while we were thus preparing our selves secretly for _Guatemala_ wee were affrighted and disheartned with what in the like case to ours happened. A Fryer of our company named Fryer _Peter Borrallo_, without acquainting us or any other of his friends with what he intended, made a secret escape from us, and (as after we were informed) took his way alone to _Guatemala_. This so incensed our Superior _Calvo_, that after great search and enquiry after him, he betook himself to the Viceroy begging his assistance and Proclamation, in the publick Market place, for the better finding out his lost sheep, and alleadging that none ought to hide or privily to harbour any Fryer that had been sent from _Spain_ to _Philippinas_ to preach there the Gospell, for that the foresaid Fryers were sent by the King of _Spain_, whose bread they had eate, and at whose charges they had been brought from _Spain_ to _Mexico_, and at the same Kings charges ought to bee carried from _Mexico_ to _Philippinas_; and therefore if any Fryer now in the half-way should recant of his purpose of going to _Philippinas_, and should by flight escape from his Superiour and the rest of his company, the same ought to be punished as guilty of defrauding the Kings charges. This reason of _Calvo_ being a politicke and state reason prevailed so farre with the Viceroy, that immediately hee commanded a Proclamation to bee made against whosoever should know of the said _Peter Borrallo_ and should not produce him to his Highnesse, or should harbour him or any other Fryer belonging to _Philippinas_ from that time forward until the ships were departed from _Acapulco_; and that whosoever should trespasse against this Proclamation, should suffer imprisonment at his Highnesse his will and and pleasure, and the penalty of five hundred Duckats to bee paid in at the Kings Exchequer. With this Proclamation _Calvo_ began to insult over us, and to tell us, wee were the Kings slaves under his conduct, and that if any of us durst to leave him (for hee was jealous of most of us) hee doubted not but with the Viceroy his assistance and Proclamation he should find both us and _Peter Borrallo_ out to our further shame and confusion. This did very much trouble us, and made my _Irish_ friend _Thomas de Leon_ his heart to faint, and his courage to relent, and utterly to renounce before mee his former purposes of staying and hiding himselfe; yet hee protested to mee, if I was still of the same minde, hee would not discover mee; but seeing his weaknesse, I durst not trust him, but made as if I were of his minde. Thus I betooke my self to the other three of my friends (of whom one was _Antonio Melendez_ that had beene the first cause of my comming from _Spain_) whom I found much troubled, doubtfull and wavering what course to take.

They considered if wee should flie, what a shame it would be to us to be taken and brought back to _Mexico_ as prisoners, and forcedly against our wills to be shipped to _Philippinas_; they considered further if they went, what a slavish and uncomfortable life they should live in _Philippinas_, without any hopes of ever returning again to Christendom; yet further they looked upon the Viceroy his Proclamation, and thought it hard to breake through the opposition and authority of so great a man; and lastly in the Proclamation they beheld the estimation that _Calvo_ had of them, as of slaves and fugitives to be cried in a publike Market place. But after all these serious thoughts our only comfort was that _Peter Borallo_ was safely escaped, and (as we were informed) had been met farre from _Mexico_ travailing alone towards _Guatemala_. And we thought, why might not we escape as well as he. Then I told them that my resolution was to stay, though alone I returned either to _Spaine_, or tooke my journey to _Guatemala_; the rest were glad to see mee resolute, and gave their hands that they would venture as much as I should. Then we set upon the time when we should take our flight, and agreed that every one should have a Horse in readinesse in _Mexico_, and that the night before the rest of our company should depart from _Mexico_ towards _Acapulco_ to take shipping, we should by two and two in the evening leave _St. Jacintho_, and meet in _Mexico_ where our Horses stood, and from thence set out and travaile all the night, continuing our journey so the first two or three nights and resting in the day time, untill we were some twenty or thirty leagues from _Mexico_. For we thought the next morning _Calvo_ awaking and missing us would not stop the journey of the rest of his company for our sakes, to search and inquire after us; or if he did, it would be but for one day or two at the most, till he had inquired for us in _Mexico_, or a dayes journey in some of the common or beaten rodes of _Mexico_, where we would be sure he should not heare of us; for we also agreed to travail out of any common or knowne rode for the first two or three nights. This resolution was by us as well performed and carried on, as it had been agreed upon, though some had been fearfull that a counsell betwixt foure could never be kept secret, nor such a long journey as of nine hundred miles be compassed with such small means of money as was among us, for the maintenance of our selves and Horses; for after our Horses were bought, we made a common purse, and appointed one to be the purse-bearer, & found that amongst us all there were but twenty duckats, which in that rich and plentifull country was not much more then here twenty _English_ shillings, which seemed to us but as a morning dew, which would soone be spent in provender only for our Horses; yet we resolved to goe on, relying more upon the providence of God, then upon any earthly meanes; and indeed this proved to us a far better support then all the drosse of gold and silver could have done; and we reckoned that after we had travailed fourty leagues from _Mexico_, and entred without feare into the rode, we had for our twenty duckats neer fourty now in our common purse. The reason was, for that most commonly we went either to Friers Cloisters who knew us not, or to rich farmes of _Spaniards_ who thought nothing too good for us, and would not onely entertaine us stately, but at our departure would give us money for one or two daies journey. All our feare was to get safely out of _Mexico_, for wee had been informed that _Calvo_ had obtained from the Viceroy officers to watch in the chiefest rodes both day and night untill he had departed with his Traine of Friers to _Acapulco_.

And for all the Viceroy his Proclamation we got a true and trustie friend, who offered to guide us out of _Mexico_ by such a way as we needed not to feare any would watch for us. So with our friend and a map about us to guide us after he had left us in the morning, we cheerfully set out of _Mexico_ about ten of the clock at night, about the middle of _February_, and meeting no body about _Guadalupe_ which was the way wee went out (though the contrary way to _Guatemala_, which on purpose we followed for feare the true way should be beset) we comfortably travailed all that night, till in the morning we came to a little Town of _Indians_, where we began to spend of our small stock, calling upon the _Indians_ for a Turkey and Capon to break our fast with our friend and guide before he returned to _Mexico_. Breakefast being ended we took our leaves of him, and went to rest, that we might be more able to performe the next nights journey, which was to Crosse the Countrey towards _Atlisco_, which is in a valley of twenty miles about at least, and doth give it the name of the valley of _Atlixco_ and is a valley much mentioned in all those parts, for the exceeding great plenty of wheat that is there reaped every yeer, and is the chief sustenance and reliefe of _Mexico_ and all the Townes about. In this Valley are many rich Townes of _Spaniards_ and _Indians_; but we shunned to enter into them, and went from farme to farme out of the high-waies, where we found good entertainment of those rich Farmers and Yeomen, who bare such respect unto the Preists, that truely they thought themselves happy with our company. Here we began to shake off all fear, and no more like Bats and Owles fly in the night, but that we might with more pleasure enjoy the prospect of that valley, and of the rest of the Countrey we travailed by day; yet still crossing the Countrey, we went from thence towards another valley called the valley of _St. Pablo_, or _Pauls_ valley, which though it be not as big as the valley of _Atlisco_, yet is held to be a richer valley; for here they enjoy a double harvest of wheat every yeer. The first seed they sow is watered, and growes with the common season raine; and the second seed which they sow in summer as soone as their first harvest is in, when the season of raine is past, they water with many Springs which fall into that Valley from the mountaines which round beset it, and let in the water among their wheat at their pleasure, and take it away when they see fit. Here live Yeomen upon nothing but their farms, who are judged to worth some twenty thousand, some thirty thousand, some fourty thousand duckats. In this valley we chanced to light upon one farme where the Yeoman was country-man to my friend _Antonio Melendez_, borne in _Segovia_ in _Spaine_, who for his sake kept us three daies and nights with him. His table was as well furnished as the table of a Knight might be, his side board full of silver boules and cups, and plates instead of trenchers; he spared no dainties which might welcome us to his table, no perfumes which might us delight in our chambers, no musick (which his daughters were brought up to) which might with more pleasure help to passe away the time. To him _Antonio Melendez_ made known our journey towards _Guatemala_; and from him we received directions which way to steere our course untill we might be thoroughly free from feare and danger; here we began to see the great providence of God, who had brought us being strangers to such a friends house, who not onely welcomed us to him, but when we departed gave us a guide for a whole day, and bestowed upon us twenty duckats to helpe to bear our charges. From this valley wee wheeled about to _Tasco_, a Towne of some five hundred Inhabitants which enjoyeth great commerce with the Country about by reason of the great store of Cotton-wool which is there. And here we were very well entertained by a Franciscan Frier, who being of _Spaine_ made the more of us, knowing we came from thence. Here we got into the rode of _Guaxaca_, and went to _Chautla_, which also aboundeth with Cotton-wool, but in it we found no entertainment but what our owne purses would afford us. Next to this place is a great Town called _Zumpango_, which doth consist of at least eight hundred Inhabitants, many of them very rich both _Indians_ and _Spaniards_. Their commodities are chiefly Cotton-wooll, and Sugar, and Cochinil. But beyond this Town are the mountaines called _la Misteca_, which abound with many rich and great Townes, and doe trade with the best silke that is in all that Country. Here is also great store of Wax and Hony; and _Indians_ live there who traffique to _Mexico_ and about the Countrey with twenty or thirty mules of their own, chopping and changing, buying and selling commodities, and some of them are thought to be worth ten, or twelve, or fifteen thousand duckats, which is much for an _Indian_ to get among the _Spaniards_, who thinke all the riches of _America_ little enough for themselves. From these mountaines of _Misteca_ to _Guaxaca_ we saw little observable, only Townes of two or three hundred inhabitants; rich Churches, well built, and better furnished within with lampes, candlesticks, crownes of silver for the severall statues of Saints; and all the way wee did observe a very fruitfull soil for both _Indian_ and _Spanish_ wheat, much Sugar, much Cotton-wool, Hony, and here and there some Cochinil, and of Plantins, and other sweet and luscious fruit great store; but above all great abundance of cattel, whose Hides are one of the greatest commodities that from those parts are sent to _Spaine_. Some reported that about _Misteca_ formerly much gold had been found, and the _Indians_ were wont to use it much, though now they will not be knowne of any, lest the greedinesse of the _Spaniards_ bring them to misery and destruction, as it hath their neighbours about them. Also it is reported for certaine that there are Mines of silver, though as yet the _Spaniards_ have not found them.

There are many Mines of Iron which the _Spaniards_ will not busie themselves in digging, because they have it cheaper from _Spain_; from hence wee came to the City of _Guaxaca_, which is a Bishops Seat, though not very bigge, yet a faire and beautifull City to behold. It standeth fourescore leagues from _Mexico_ in a pleasant valley from whence _Cortez_ was named _Marques del Valle_, the Marquesse of the Valley. This City, as all the rest of _America_, except the Sea Towns, lyeth open without walls, Bulwarkes, Forts, Towers, or any Castle, Ordnance or Ammunition to defend it. It may consist of at the most two thousand Inhabitants, and are governed by a _Spanish_ High Justice called _Alcalde Major_, whose power reacheth over all the Valley, and beyond it as farre as _Nixapa_, and almost to _Tecoantepeque_, a Sea Towne upon _Mar del Zur_. The Valley is of at least fifteen miles in length, and ten in breadth, where runneth in the midst a goodly River yeelding great store of fish. The Valley is full of Sheep and other Cattell, which yeeld much Wooll to the Clothiers of the City of _Angels_, store of Hides to the Merchants of _Spain_, and great provision of flesh to the City of _Guaxaca_, and to all the Townes about, which are exceeding rich, and doe maintaine many Cloisters of Fryers, and Churches with stately furniture belonging unto them. But what doth make the Valley of _Guaxaca_ to bee mentioned farre and neer, are the good horses which are bred in it, and esteemed to bee the best of all the Country. In this Valley also are some farmes of Sugar, and great store of fruits, which two sorts meeting together have cried up the City of _Guaxaca_ for the best Conserves and Preserves that are made in _America_. In the City there are some six Cloisters of Nuns and Fryers, all of them exceeding rich; but above all is the Cloister of the Dominican Fryers, whose Church treasure is worth two or three Millions; and the building of it the fairest and strongest in all those parts, the walls are of stone so broad, that a part of them being upon finishing when I was there I saw Carts goe upon them, with stone and other materials. Here are also two Cloisters of Nuns, which are talked of far and neer not for their religious practices, but for their skill in making two drinkes which are used in those parts, the one called _Chocolatte_ (whereof I shall speake heereafter) and the other _Atolle_, which is like unto our _Almond_ Milk, but much thicker, and is made of the juyce of the yong _Maiz_ or _Indian_ wheat, which they so confection with spices, musk, and sugar, that it is not onely admirable in the sweetnesse of the smell, but much more nourishing and comforting the stomack. This is not a Commoditie that can bee transported from thence, but is to be drunk there where it is made. But the other, _Chocolatte_, is made up in Boxes, and sent not onely to _Mexico_ and the parts thereabouts, but much of it is yeerly transported into _Spain_. This City of _Guaxaca_ is the richer by reason of the safety they enjoy for the carriage of their Commodities to and from the port of St. _John de Ulhua_ by the great River _Alvarado_ which runneth not far from it; and although the Barkes come not to the City of _Guaxaca_, yet they come up to the _Zapotecas_, and to St. _Ildefonso_, which is not farre from _Guaxaca_. And the carelessenesse of the _Spaniards_ here is to be wondred at, that all along this River which runneth up into the heart of their Country, they have built as yet no Castles, Towers, or watch-houses, or planted any Ordinance, trusting onely in this, that great ships cannot come up, as if Frigots or smaller Barks, such as they themselves use, may not bee made to annoy them. But of _Guaxaca_ I shall say no more, but conclude that it is of so temperate an aire, so abounding in fruits, and all provision requisite for mans life, so commodiously situated between the North and South Sea, having on the North side St. _John de Ulhua_, and on the South _Tecoantepeque_ a small and unfortified harbour, that no place I so much desired to live in whilest I was in those parts as in _Guaxaca_, which certainly I had attempted as I travailed by it, had I not understood that the Criolian or Native Fryers were many and as deadly enemies unto those that came from _Spain_ as were the _Mexicans_. And this their spight and malice they shewed whilest wee were there, to an ancient and grave old Fryer Master in Divinity, who living had been for learning the Oracle of those parts. This old man died when I was there, and because when hee lived they could pick no hole in his Coat, being dead they searched his chamber, and finding in a Coffer some moneys which hee had not made knowne to his Superiour when living (which they would reduce to a sinne against his professed poverty, called Propriety, and subject to the censure of Excommunication) they reported that hee had died excommunicated, and might not injoy their Christian buriall in the Church or Cloister, and so ignominiously buried their old Divine, and with him his Credit and reputation in a grave made in one of their Gardens. A thing much talked on as scandalous to all the City and Country, which they salved with saying hee was excommunicated; but the truth was, he was of _Spaine_, and therefore at his death they would shew their spight unto him. For certainly they could not doe it for the sinne of Propriety which by him had been committed in his life; and to them all may be well said what our Saviour said to the Jewes bringing to him a woman found in adultery to bee stoned, Whosoever of you is without sinne, let him cast the first stone; for all of them, yea even the best Fryers that live in _America_, are some way or other, much or lesse guilty of the sinne of Propriety which they professe and vow against. With this which wee saw with our eyes, besides what with our eares wee had heard of discords and factions amongst them, wee thought _Guaxaca_ was no place for us to live in; so after three dales we made haste out of it, and departed towards _Chiapa_, which lyeth three hundred miles from thence. And for our comfort in our further travailing we were informed in _Guaxaca_, that in most Towns of the Rode through that country, the _Indians_ had an order from the High Justice to give unto Fryers travailing that way either horse to ride on, or to carry their carriages and provision of food freely without mony, if they had none, so that at their departure they should write it down in the town booke what they had spent, not abiding above foure and twenty houres in the Town; which expences of travailers the _Indians_ afterwards at the yeers end of their ordinary Justice and Officers were to give an account of with carrying their Towne book unto the _Spanish_ justice to whom they belonged, and by so doing these expences were allowed of to bee discharged by the common Towne Purse or Treasure, for the which a common plot of ground was alloted to bee yeerly sowen with wheat or _Maiz_. With this charitable relief and help of the Townes wee conceived better of the rest of our long journey, and hoped to compasse it with more ease. And so joyfully we went on, and the first place where wee made triall of this order was at a great Town called _Antiquera_, where wee freely called for our fowles and what other provision we saw in the Town, fed heartily on them, and the next day when we were to pay and to depart, wee called for the Town book, subscribed our hands to what wee had spent ourselves and horses, and went our way, praising the discretion of the Justices of that Country, who had setled a course so easy and comfortable for us, especially who had but shallow purses for our long journy. Yet we found in some small Towns that the _Indians_ were unwilling, and (as they alleadged) unable to extend this Charity to us, being foure in company, and bringing with us the charge likewise of foure horses, which made us sometimes make the longer journey that wee might reach unto some great and rich Towne. The next to _Antiquera_ in that Rode is _Nixapa_, which is of at the least eight hundred Inhabitans, _Spaniards_ and _Indians_, standing upon the side of a River, which wee were informed was an arme of the great River _Alvarado_. In this Town is a very rich Cloister of Dominican Fryers, where we were well entertained; & in it there is a picture of our Lady, which superstitiously they fancy to have wrought miracles, and is made a pilgrimage from far and neere, and consequently hath great riches and Lampes belonging unto it. This is counted absolutely one of the wealthiest places of all the Countrey of _Guaxaca_; for here is made much Indigo, Sugar, _Cochinill_; and here grow many trees of _Cacao_ and _Achiotte_, whereof is made the _Chocolatte_, and is a commodity of much trading in those parts, though our _English_ and _Hollanders_ make little of it when they take a prize of it at Sea, as not knowing the secret virtue and quallity of it for the good of the stomack. From hence we went to _Aguatulco_ and _Capalita_, also great Towns standing upon a plain Country full of Sheep and Cattell, abounding with excellent fruits, especially _Pines_ and _Sandia's_, which are as big as Pumpions, and so waterish that they even melt like snow in the mouth, & cool the heat which there is great, by reason it is a low and Marsh kind of ground, lying neer the South Sea. The next chief Town and most considerable after _Capalita_ is _Tecoantepeque_; this is a Sea Town upon _Mar del Zur_, and a harbour for small vessels, such as Trade from those parts to _Acapulco_ and _Mexico_, and to _Realejo_ and _Guatemala_, and sometimes to _Panama_. Here upon some occasions Ships which come from _Peru_ to _Acapulco_ doe call in. It is a port no farther safe, then that no _English_ or _Holland_ Ships doe come thereabouts, which if they did, they would there find no resistance, but from thence would finde an open and easie Rode over all the Countrey. Upon all this South Sea side from _Acapulco_ to _Panama_, which is above two thousand miles by land there is no open harbour, but this for _Guaxaca_, and _La Trinidad_ for _Guatemala_, and _Realejo_ for _Nicaragua_, and _Golfo de Salinas_ for small vessels in _Costa Rica_, and all these unprovided of Ordnance and Ammunition, all open dores to let in any Nation that would take the pains to surround the World to get a treasure. This port of _Tecoantepeque_ is the chiefe for fishing in all that Countrey; wee met here in the wayes sometimes with fifty, sometimes with a hundred mules together laden with nothing but salt fish for _Guaxaca_, City of the _Angels_ and _Mexico_. There are some very rich Merchants dwell in it, who trade with _Mexico, Peru_ and _Philippinas_, sending their small vessels out from Port to Port, which come home richly laden with the Commodities of all the Southerne or Easterne parts. From hence to _Guatemala_ there is a plaine Rode along the Coast of the South Sea, passing through the Provinces of _Soconuzco_ and _Suchutepeques_; but wee aiming at _Chiapa_ tooke our journey over the high Rocks and Mountaines called _Quelenes_, travailing first from _Tecoantepeque_ to _Estepeque_, and from thence through a desert of two dayes journey, where wee were faine to lodge one night by a spring of water upon the bare ground in open wide fields, where neither Town nor house is to bee seene, yet thatcht lodges are purposely made for travailers. This plain lyeth so open to the Sea, that the wind from thence blow so strongly and violently that travailers are scarce able to sit their horses and mules; which is the reason no people inhabit there, because the windes teare their houses, and the least fire that there breaks out, doth a great deale of mischief. This plaine yet is full of Cattell, and Horses and Mares, some wild, some tame; and through this windy Champaigne Country with much adoe we travailed; though my self thought I should even there end my daies, for the second day being to reach to a Towne, and my three friends riding before, thinking that I followed them, evening now drawing on they made more hast to find the Town. But in the meane while my horse refused to goe any further, threatning to lie downe if I put him to more then hee was able. I knew the towne could not be far, and so I lighted, thinking to walke and lead my horse, who also refused to bee led, and so lay downe. With this a troop of thoughts beset mee, and to none I could give a flat answer. I thought if I should goe on foot to finde out the Towne and my company and leave my horse there sadled, I might both lose my selfe, and my horse and saddle; and if I should find the Towne and come in the morning for my horse, the plain was so wide and spatious, that I might seeke long enough, and neither finde him, nor know the place where I left him, for there was nothing neere to marke the place, nor where to hide the saddle, neither hedge, tree, shrub, within a mile on any side. Wherefore I considered my best course would bee to take up my lodging in the wide and open wildernesse with my horse, and to watch him lest hee should wander and stray away, untill the morning or untill my friends might send from the towne to see what was become of mee; which they did not that night, thinking I had taken my way to another Town not far from thence, whither they sent in the morning to enquire for me. I looked about therefore for a commodious place to rest in, but found no choice of lodgings, everywhere I found a bed ready for mee, which was the bare ground; a bolster onely or pillow I wanted for my head, and seeing no bank did kindly offer it selfe to ease a lost stranger, and pilgrime, I unsadled my weary Jade, and with my saddle fitted my head in stead of a pillow. Thus without a supper I went to bed in my Mothers owne bosome, not a little comforted to see my tired horse pluck up his spirits, and make much of his supper, which there was ready for him, of short, dry and withered grasse, upon which hee fed with a greedy and hungry stomack, promising mee by his feeding that the next day he would performe a journey of at least thirty or forty miles. The poor Beast fed apace, my careful eye watched him for at least an houre, when upon a suddain I heard such an hideous noise of howling, barking, and crying, as if a whole Army of dogs were come into the wildernesse, and howled for want of a prey of some dead horse or mule. At first the noise seemed to be a pretty way off from mee; but the more I hearkened unto it, the nigher it came unto mee, and I perceived it was not of dogs by some intermixt shriekings as of Christians, which I observed in it. An observation too sad for alone man without any helpe or comfort in a wildernesse, which made my haire to stand upright, my heart to pant, my body to bee covered with a fearfull sweat as of death. I expected nothing else, not knowing from whence the noise proceeded; sometimes I thought of Witches, sometimes of devils, sometimes of _Indians_ turned into the shape of beasts, (which amongst some hath beene used) sometimes of wild and savage beasts, and from all these thoughts I promised my self nothing but sure death, for the which I prepared my selfe recommending my soule to the Lord, whilst I expected my body should bee a prey to cruell and mercilesse beasts; or some instruments of that roaring Lion who in the Apostle goeth about seeking whom he may devoure. I thought I could not any waies prevaile by flying or running away, but rather might that way runne my selfe into the jawes of death; to hide there was no place, to lie still I thought was safest, for if they were wild beasts, they might follow their course another way from mee, and so I might escape. Which truly proved my safest course, for while I lay sweating and panting, judging every cry, every howling and shrieking an alarm to my death, being in this agony and fearfull conflict till about midnight, on a suddain the noise ceased, sleep (though but the shadow of death) seized upon my wearied body, and forsook me not, til the mornings glorious lamp shining before my slumbering eies and driving away deaths shadow greeted me with life & safety. When I awaked, my soul did magnifie the Lord for my deliverance from that nights danger, I looked about & saw my horse also neer the place where I had left him, I sadled him presently with desire to leave that wildernesse and to find out my company, and to impart unto them what that night had happened unto mee; I had not rid above a mile, when I came to a brook of water, where were two waies, the one straight forward along the desart, where I could discover no Towne, nor houses, nor trees in a prospect of five or six miles at least; the other way was on the left hand, and that way some two or three miles off I saw a wood of trees, I imagined there might be the Towne; I followed that way, and within a quarter of a mile my Horse beganne to complaine of his poore provender the night before, and to slight me for it; I was fain to light and lead him; and thus againe discouraged with my Horse, and discomforted for the uncertainty of my way, looking about I spied a thatcht house on the one side of the way, and one on Horse-back, who came riding to mee; it was an _Indian_ belonging to that house which was the farme of a rich _Indian_, and Governour of the next Towne, of whom I asked how farre it was to the Town of _Estepeque_, he shewed me the trees, and told me that a little beyond them it stood, and that I should not see it untill I came unto it. With this I got up againe and spurred my sullen jade, untill I reached unto the trees, where he was at a stand and would goe no further. Then I unsadled him, and hid my saddle under some low shrubs, and leaving my horse (whom I feared not that any would steale him) I walked unto the Towne which was not above halfe a mile from thence, where I found my three friends were waiting for me, and grieved for the losse of me, had sent to another Towne to enquire for me; it was the least thought they had that I had been a lodger in the desart. When I related unto them and to the _Indians_ the noise and howling that I had heard, the _Indians_ answered me that that was common musick to them almost every night, & that they were Wolves and Tigres which they feared not, but did often meet them and with a sticke or hollowing did scare them away, and that they were onely ravenous for their Fowles, Colts, Calves or Kids. After a little discourse I returned with an _Indian_ to seeke my Horse and saddle, and in that Towne I sould my wearied _Mexican_ beast, and hired another to _Ecatepeque_ whither we went all four friends again in company. Where note that in this plain and champaigne country of _Tecoantepeque_ are five rich and pleasant Townes full of fruits and provision of victuall, all ending in _Tepeque_, to wit, _Tecoantepeque, Estepeque, Ecatepeque, Sanatepeque_, and _Tapanatepeque_. Now from _Ecatepeque_ wee could discover the high mountaines of _Quelenes_, which were the subject of most of our discourse to _Sanatepeque_, and from thence to _Tapanatepeque_. For we had been informed by _Spaniards_ and Travailers in the way, that they were the most dangerous mountains to travail over that were in all those parts; and that there were on the top of them some passages so narrow, and so high, and so open to the boisterous winds that came from the South-sea, which seemed to lie at the very bottom of them; and on each side of these narrow passages such deep precipices among rocks, that many times it had happened, that the wind blowing furiously had cast downe Mules laden with heavy carriages downe the rockes, and likewise Horse-men had been blown down both Horse and man. The sight of the rockes and mountaines did terrifie us, and the report of them did much affright us; so that in all this way we did conferre which way to take, whether the rode way to _Guatemala_ which lieth under those mountaines along the coast by the Country of _Soconuzco_, from whence (though out of our way) we might have turned to _Chiapa_, or whether we should steer our right course to _Chiapa_ over those mountains, which we had been informed, we might safely passe over if the winds did not blow too boisterously. We resolved that when wee came to _Tapanatepeque_ we would choose our way according as the winds did favour or threaten us, but however to _Chiapa_ we would goe, because there we had understood was the Superiour and Provinciall or all the Dominicans of those parts, (to whom we ought to addresse our selves) and also because we would see that famous and much talked of Province of _Chiapa_. In _Sanatepeque_ wee met with a Frier who gave us stately entertainment, and from thence gave us _Indians_ to guide us to _Tapanatepeque_, and a letter to the chiefe of the Towne (which also was at his command) to give us Mules to carry us, and _Indians_ to guide us up the mountaines. Here the rest of our Horses also failed us, but their wearinesse was no hinderance to us, for the _Indians_ were willing to give us as much or more then they had cost us, because they were true _Mexican_ breed, and all the way we went to _Chiapa_ and through that country to _Guatemala_ the Towns were to provide us of Mules for nothing. We came to _Tapanatepeque_ (which standeth at the bottome and foot of _Quelenes_) on Saturday night, and with the letter we carried were very much welcomed and entertained well by the _Indians_.