Chapter I: shall faithfully commend unto the Presse (3)

I had not rid on above a mile from the Church of _Xocotenango_, when the hils and Mountaines seemed to depart one from another, leaving a more spatious object for the eye to behold, and a wider Valley to wander in. The fame of that City from _Mexico_ and _Chiapa_ had raised up my thoughts to conceit of some strong walls, Towers, Forts or Bulwarks to keep out an aspiring or attempting enemy; But when I came neere and least thought of it, I found my self in it without entring through walls, or gates, or passing over any bridge, or finding any watch or guard to examine who I was; but passing by a new built Church, standing neere a place of dunghils, where were none but mean houses, some thatched, and some tyled, and asking what Town that was, answer was made me that it was the City of _Guatemala_, and that that, being called St. _Sebastian_, was the onely Parish Church of the City. With this my high conceiting thoughts stooped down to think of some second _Chiapa_; till having continued on a while by houses on my right hand and dunghils on my left, I came to a broader street having houses on each side, which seemed to promise a City at hand. At my first turning I discovered a proud and stately Cloister, which was the place of rest to my wearied body. I surrounded it to finde out the back gate, and there lighted, and enquired for the Prior, who bad me very welcome, assuring me that for the Provincials sake, I should want no incouragement, and that hee would doe for mee much more then what the Provinciall had signified unto him by Letters. He told mee hee had beene brought up in _Spain_, in the Country of _Asturias_, where many _English_ ships did use to come, and having seen there many of my Nation, he affected them very much, and to mee as one of so good a Nation, and as a stranger and Pilgrime out of my owne Country, hee would shew all the favour that the utmost of his power would afford. How glad was I, to find in him so contrary an opinion to that of foure eyed _Hidalgo_? And how did he performe his words? He was the chief Master and Reader of Divinity in the University, his name Master _Jacintho de Cabannas_, who finding mee desirous to follow the Schools, and especially to hear from him some lessons of Theologie, within the first quarter of yeer, that I had been his constant and attentive Auditor, graced mee with a publick act of conclusions of Divinity, which I was to defend under his direction and moderation in the face of the whole University and Assembly of Doctors and Divines, against the Tenents of _Scotus_ and _Suarez_. But the principall and head conclusion was concerning the birth of the Virgin _Mary_, whom both Jesuites, _Suarez_ and Franciscans, and Scotists hold to have beene borne without Originall sinne, or any guilt or staine of it, against whose fond, foolish and ungrounded fancies, I publickly defended with _Thomas Aquinas_, and all Thomists, that shee (as well as all _Adams_ posterity) was borne in Originall sin. It was an act, the like whereof had not been so controverted in that University with arguments in _contra_, and their answers and solutions, and with reasons and arguments in _pro_ many yeers before. The Jesuites stamped with their feet, clapt with their hands, railed with their tongues, and condemned it with their mouths for a heresie, saying, that in _England_, where were hereticks, such an opinion concerning Christs mother might bee held, and defended by mee who had my birth among hereticks, but that Master _Cabannas_ borne among _Spaniards_, and brought up in their Universities, and being the chief Reader in that famous Academy should maintaine such an opinion, they could not but much marvaile and wonder at it. But with patience I told them, that strong reasons, and the further authority of many learned _Thomist_ Divines should satisfie their vaine and clamorous wondring. The Act was ended, and though with Jesuites I could get no credit, yet with the Dominicans, and with Master _Cabannas_, I got so much that I never after lost it for the space of almost twelve yeers; but was still honored by the meanes of this _Cabannas_ and Fryer _John Baptist_ the Prior of _Chiapa_ (who at Christmas ensuing was made Prior of _Guatemala_) with honors and preferments as great as ever stranger was living among _Spaniards_. These two above named being at Candlemas or beginning of _February_ that same yeer at _Chiapa_, at the election of a new Provinciall, would not forget mee their poorest friend stil abiding in _Guatemala_, but remembring that the University (which belonged chiefly to the Cloister) at Michaelmas would want a new Reader or Master of Arts to begin with Logick, continue through the eight bookes of Physicks, and to end with the Metaphysicks, propounded mee to the new elected Provinciall (whose name was Fryer _John Ximeno_) and to the whole Chapter and Conventicle of the Province for Reader of Arts in _Guatemala_ the Michaelmas next ensuing. Their suit for me was so earnest and their authority so great that nothing could bee denied them, and so they brought unto mee from the Provinciall Chapter these insuing Letters Patents, from Fryer _John Ximeno_, whose form and manner I thought fit here to insert out of the Original in _Spanish_ (which to this day abideth with me) for curiosity and satisfaction of my Reader.

_Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General y Prior Provincial desta Provincia de San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores. Por quanto nuestro Convento de Sancto Domingo de Guatemala carece de Lector de Artes. Por la presente Instituyo y doy por Lector Al Padre fray Thomas de Sancta Maria_ (so was my Name then, and by this name will some _Spaniards_ know mee, who may chance hereafter to read this, and curse mee) _por la satisfaccion que tengo de su sufficiencia. Y mando al Pe. Prior del dicho nuestro Convento, le ponga en possession del tal Officio. Y para mayor merito de obediencia le mando in virtute Spiritu sancti, et sanctæ obedientiæ, et sub præcepto formali; In nomine Patris, et Filii et Spiritus sancti. Amen. Fecho en este nuestro Convento de Chiapa la Real en nueve de Febrero de_ 1627. _Y la mande sellar con sello mayor de nuistro officio._

Fray Juan _or_ Ximeno Plis.

Por Mandado de Nostro Rdo. Padre, Fray Juan de Sto. Domingo Noto.

_Notifique esta Patente a el Contenido, en_ 12 _dias del mes de Abril de_ 1627. Fray Juan Baptista Por.

This Form according to the Originall in _Spanish_ is thus in _English_, and to this purpose.

Fryer _John Ximeno_ Preacher Generall, and Prior Provinciall of this Province of Saint _Vincent_ of _Chiapa_ and _Guatemala_, Order of Preachers. Whereas our Convent of Saint _Dominick_ of _Guatemala_ wanteth and stands in need of a Reader of Arts: By these presents I doe institute, name and appoint for Reader Fryer _Thomas_ of Saint _Mary_, for the great satisfaction which I have of his sufficiency. And I command the Prior of the foresaid our Convent, that hee put him into full possession and enjoyment of the said Office. And for the greater merit of obedience I command him (our forenamed Reader,) by vertue of the Holy Ghost, and of holy obedience, and under a formall precept, In the Name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, Amen. Dated in this our Convent of _Chiapa_ the Royall, the ninth of _February_, 1627. And I commanded these to bee sealed with the great Seale of our Office.

_Fryer John or Ximeno Pal._

_By the command of our Reverend Father Fryer John of St. Dominick. Notary._

_I notified these Letters, Patents, unto the contained in them the_ 12. _day of the moneth of_ Aprill. 1627.

_Fryer John Baptist. Por._

This honour conferred upon mee a stranger, and new commer to the Province, made the Criolian party and some others (who had aymed at that place and preferment in the University) to stomack mee. But to mee it was a spurre to stir and prick mee on to a more eager pursuit of learning, to frequent the _Academy_ lessons with more care and diligence; and to spend my selfe and time, day and night, more in studying, that so I might performe with like honour that which was laid upon mee, and answer the expectation of my best and forwardest friends. Three yeers I continued in this Convent and City in obedience to the forecited Patents; oftentimes I thought within my self that the honour of my _English_ Nation here lay upon me in _Guatemala_, in not suffering any _Spaniard_ to goe beyond mee, or to outbrave mee with gallant, witty and well seeming arguments; and so many times I would at nine of the clock at night, when others were gone to bed, take in my chamber a cup of hot Chocolatte, that with it I might banish sleep from mine eyes, and might the better continue in my study till one or two in the morning, being bound to awake and bee up again by six. I was loath in these three yeers to take upon mee any other of such charges which are common in such Convents; but especially to preach much, and to hear the Confessions of such both men and women as resorted to the Church of that Cloister, lest hereby my studies might bee hindered, and time spent in other waies. Yet the Prior and Master _Cabannas_ would often bee very importunate with mee, to obtaine the Bishops License for hearing of Confessions, and Preaching abroad in the City and Country (for in the Church of that Cloister I might and did sometimes, though seldome preach with Permission of the Provinciall) but this I strongly refused, untill such time as the Provinciall himselfe came to _Guatemala_, who hearing me once Preach, would by all meanes have mee further licensed and authorised from the Bishop, that so I might not bee straitned within the Cloisters limits, but abroad in other Churches might freely Preach, and thereby get some money for the better furnishing my selfe with Bookes. Hee therefore commanded mee to bee examined by five examiners all able Divines, for the space of three houres (as is the custome of that Order) and having three houres stood under their hard and rigid questions and examination, having also at the end obtained their approbation, then the Provinciall presented mee unto the Bishop with these words following, being taken out of the Originall yet abiding with mee.

_Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General, y Provincial desta Provincia de San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores, Presento a Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima al Padre Fray Thomas de Sancta Maria, examinado y a provado por cinco examinadores per vota Secreta, conforme a nuestras Constitutiones, Para que Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima se sirva de darle licencia para Confessar y Predicar a todo genero de Gente en su Obispado, Conforme a la Clementina,_ Dudum de Sepulturis.

_A Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima Suplico le aya por Presentado, y se sirva de dalle la dicha licencia, que en ello recibire merced._

Fray Juan or Ximeno, Palis.

This forme of presentation, used among them, naming the party presenting, and the party presented, is in English much to this purpose.

Frier _John Ximeno_, Preacher Generall, and Provinciall of this Province of _St. Vincent_, of _Chiapa_ and _Guatemala_, Order of Preachers, do present unto your Lordship the father Frier _Thomas_ of _St. Mary_ (already examined, and approved by five Examiners by secret Votes, according to our Rule and Constitutions) that your Lordship may be pleased to grant him licence to heare Confessions, and to preach to all sorts of people in your Bishoprick, according to that Rule and Canon of Pope _Clement_, beginning with these words, _Dudum de Sepulturis_.

I humbly beseech your Lordship, to have him for presented, and to grant him your foresaid licence, and therein I shall receive great favour.

_Frier John or Ximeno. Palis._

The Bishop of _Guatemala_ being my great friend, and a well-wisher to learning and especially to that Universitie, needed not many words of intreaty, but presently gave me this Licence written on the back-side of the presentation, and that without any further examination by his Clergy and part of his Chapter, which hee may and doth use when he pleaseth.

_Nos el Maestro Don Fray Joan de Sandoval, y, Capata, de la Orden de San Augustin por la Divina Gracia Obispo de Guatemala y la Vera Paz, y del Confejo de su Magistad etc. Por la Presente damos licencia al Padre Fray Thomas de Santa Maria de la orden de Predicadores Contenido en la Presentacion de su Religion atras Contenida, Para que en todo este nuestro Obispado pueda Predicar, y Predique la Palabra de Dios, y para que pueda administrar, y administre el Sacramento Santo de la Penitentia generalmente a todas las Personas que con el tubieren Devocion de Confessare (excepto Monias) y a las Personas que Confessare pueda absolver, y absuelva de todos sus pecados, Crimines y excessos, excepto de los casos reservados a su santidad, y a Nos por Direcho. Dada en la Ciudad de Santiago de Guatemala, en quarto de Diziembre de Mill, y Seyscientos, y veynte y nueve Annos._

El Obispo de Guatemala

Por Mandado del Illmo. mi Senor Pedro Ramirez de Valdes, Secretario.

This forme of licence to preach and heare confessions, from the Bishop of _Guatemala_, is worth Englishing for some things in it, which I shall observe with inclosed Parentheses as I goe along for the better reminding my Reader of them.

Wee (_Bishops in that Church scorne the name of a singular person, shewing they have the power of all persons joyned together in them, of rich and poore, of subject and Prince_) Master and Lord Frier _John de Sandoval y Capata_ of the Order of St. _Augustin_ (_though brought up in a poore Mendicant Cloister, yet now he takes upon him the Title of a Lord, and shewes how Prelates in that Church use to Lord it over the people_) by the Divine Grace Bishop of _Guatemala_ and the _Vera Paz_, (_he stiles himselfe a Bishop by Divine Grace, whereas he himselfe acording to the common report of him, as also are most Bishops there made, was made Bishop not by any Divine Grace, but by unwarranted Simony and favour from Courtiers, having given many thousand Crownes for that his Bishopricke_) of his Majesties Councell (_Bishops there must be Counsellors to Kings, and meddle in Court and Politicke affaires_) by these Present give licence to Father Frier _Thomas_ of Saint _Mary_, of the Order of Preachers, contained in the Presentation from his religious Order on the back-side of this our licence, that throughout all our Bishopricke he may and doe preach the word of God (_yet I confesse This word of God is little used in Sermons in that Church, but rather the words of Saints of theirs and Fathers, and lying words of miracles, wherewith they stuffe up a whole houres preaching_) and that he may and doe administer the holy Sacrament of Penance (_not holy as it came from the mouth of him to whom the Seraphims cry Holy, Holy, Holy, but as it came from the head of_ Rome, _who sacrilegiously stiles himselfe Holinesse and most Holy Father. Not a Sacrament as so left and ordained by Christ, but one of_ Romes _seven Sacraments, which as it is a City knowne and distinguished by seven hills, so will that Church be knowne and distinguished from the true Church by seven Sacraments_) generally to all persons, which shall have devotion to confesse with him, excepting Nuns (_this Bishop had in that City one of the six Judges of the Chancery his daughter a Nun called_ Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz, _whom he loved dearly, and much conferred with her in private in the Cloister, whose private conferences he was jealous they should be knowne in Confession, and therefore would suffer none to hear Nuns Confessions, but such as were his most intimate friends, and of whom he had great satisfaction, alleadging this reason that such as heard Nuns Confessions ought to be very skilfull and experienced in such waies, and men of age; for that greater cases of Conscience were to be met with in Nuns Confessions, than in others. By which reason he unwisely brought an aspersion upon those Virgins, who should live chastly and holily as separated from the world and inclosed, and yet it seems by this Bishops opinion, that within their inclosed walls sins are committed more grievous then abroad in the wide world, and such as may puzzle a Ghostly Father if not skillfull and ancient_) and that he may and doe absolve all persons which shall confesse with him (_if onely God can pardon and absolve from sinne, Oh how is Gods power arrogated and taken, yea and abused by those sacrilegious Priests!_) from all their sins, crimes, and excesses, excepting such cases as are reserved to his Holinesse, and to us by Canon right. (_A wicked rule and Canon, a Government certainly most cruell and tyrannicall, that bindes poor wretches in some cases to goe from_ America _to_ Rome_, at least eight thousand miles to cleare their Consciences before the Pope, or else they must die without pardon and absolution from sinne, many having not meanes to goe thither, nor gifts to bestow upon their Pope, who must be bribed to absolve them. O how more sweet, comfortable and safe is it for a heinous sinner and offendour even at home or in the Church grieving within his heart, and keeping within himselfe, to lift up a broken heart, and make that poste and flie with wings of Eagles to the high Throne of Gods grace and mercy, with assured confidence that there only is pardon, remission and absolution granted to all such as doe truely and unfeignedly repent of their sins, crimes and excesses!_) Dated in the City of _St. James of Guatemala_, the fourth day of _December_, in the yeer of our Lord 1629.

_The Bishop of_ Guatemala.

_By the Command of my most Illustrious Lord_, Peter Ramirez de Valdes. _Secretary._

Thus with full and ample Commission from the Bishop and the Provinciall was I setled in _Guatemala_, to read and preach, where, (although I might have continued many yeers and was offered to read Divinity, having in part begun it one quarter of a yeere) I continued yet but three yeers and almost an halfe for the reason I shall shew hereafter. So what in that time I could observe of that City, and of the Countrey round about, having had occasions to travaile about it both when I lived in _Guatemala_, and afterwards when I lived for above seven yeers in the Countrey Townes, I shall truly and faithfully recommend unto my Reader. This City of _Guatemala_ (called by the Spaniards _Santiago_, or _St. James_ of _Guatemala_) is seated in a valley, which is not above two miles and a halfe broad, for the high mountaines doe keep it close in; but in length towards the South-sea it continues a wide and champaigne Countrey, opening it selfe broader a little beyond that Towne, which to this day is called _la Ciudad Vieja_, or the old City, standing somewhat above three miles from _Guatemala_. Though the mountaines on each side doe strongly environ it, and especially on the East-side seem to hang over it, yet none of them are hinderers to Travellers, who over them have opened waies easie for man and beasts though heavily laden with wares of all sorts. The way from _Mexico_, if taken by the coast of _Soconuzco_, and _Suchutepeques_ comes into the City North-west-ward, which is a wide, open and sandy rode; if it be taken by _Chiapa_, it lieth North-east, and entreth into the City between the mountaines, as before hath been noted. West-ward to the South-sea the way lieth open through the valley and a champaigne Countrey. But South or South-East, the entrance is over high and steepy hils, which is the common Rode from _Comayagua, Nicaragua_, and the _Golfo dulce_ or sweet Gulfe, where the ships come yeerly and unlade all the Commodities which are brought from _Spaine_ for _Guatemala_. This also is the way followed by them who take a journey meer East-ward from this City. But the chiefest mountaines, which straighten in this City and valley are two, called Vulcanes, the one being a Vulcan of water, and the other a Vulcan or mountain of fire, termed so by the _Spaniards_, though very improperly a Vulcan may be said to containe water, it taking its name from the heathenish God _Vulcan_, whose profession and imployment chiefly was in fire. These two famous mountaines stand almost the one over against the other, on each side of the valley; that of water hanging on the South-side almost perpendicularly over the City, the other of fire standing lower from it, more opposite to the old City. That of water is higher then the other, and yeelds a goodly prospect to the sight, being almost all the yeer green, and full of _Indian_ Milpa's, which are plantations of _Indian_ wheat; and in the small and petty Townes which lie some halfe way up it, some at the foot of it, there are Roses, Lillies, and other flowers all the yeer long in the gardens, besides Plantins, Apricockes, and many sorts of sweet and delicate fruits. It is called by the _Spaniards, el Vulcan del agua_, or the Vulcan of water, because on the other side of it from _Guatemala_ it springs with many brookes towards a Towne called Saint _Christopher_, and especially is thought to preserve and nourish on that side also a great lake of fresh water, by the Townes called _Amatitlan_ and _Petapa_. But on the side of it towards _Guatemala_ and the valley it yeelds also so many springs of sweet and fresh water, as have caused and made a river which runneth along the valley close by the City, and is that which drives the water-mills spoken of before in _Xocotenango_. This river was not known when first the _Spaniards_ conquered that Country; but since, according to their constant Tradition, the City of _Guatemala_ standing higher and neerer to the _Vulcan_ in that place and Town which to this day is called _la Ciudad Vieja_, or the old City, there lived in it then about the yeer 1534. a Gentlewoman called _Donna Maria de Castilia_, who having lost her husband in the warres, and that same yeer buried also all her children, grew so impatient under these her crosses and afflictions, that impiously she defied God, saying, What can God do more unto me now then he hath done? he hath done his worst without it be to take away my life also, which I now regard not. Upon these words there gushed out of this Vulcan such a flood of water as carried away this woman with the streame, ruined many of the houses, and caused the inhabitants to remove to the place where now standeth _Guatemala_. This is the _Spaniards_ own Tradition, which if true, should be our example to learne to feare and not to defie God, when his judgements shew him to us angry and a God that will overcome, when he judgeth. From that time, and from this their Tradition is the Towne now standing where first stood _Guatemala_, called _la Ciudad Vieja_, or the old City, and hath continued a river which before was not knowne, having its head and spring from this high Vulcan, whose pleasant springs, gardens, fruits, flowers and every green and flourishing prospect might be a fair object to a _Martials_ wit, who here would fancie a new _Parnassus_, find out new steps of flying _Pegasus_, and greet the Nymphes and nine Sisters with this their never yet discovered and _American_ habitation. This Vulcan or mountaine is not so pleasing to the sight (whose height is judged full nine miles unto the top) but the other which standeth on the other side of the valley opposite unto it, is unpleasing and more dreadfull to behold, for here are ashes for beauty, stones and flints for fruits and flowers, baldnesse for greennesse, barrennesse for fruitfulnesse, for water whisperings and fountaine murmurs, noise of thunders and roaring of consuming metals, for running streams, flashings of fire, for tall and mighty trees and Cedars, Castles of smoak rising in height to out-dare the skie and firmament, for sweet and odoriferous and fragrant smels, a stink of fire and brimstone, which are stil in action striving within the bowels of that ever burning and fiery Vulcan. Thus is _Guatemala_ seated in the midst of a Paradise on the one side and a hell on the other, yet never hath this hell broke so loose as to consume that flourishing City. True it is formerly many yeers agoe it opened a wide mouth on the top, and breathed out such fiery ashes as filled the houses of _Guatemala_ and the Country about, and parched all the plants and fruits, and spued out such stones and rockes which had they fallen upon the City would have crushed it to pieces, but they fell not farre from it, but to this day lie about the bottome and sides of it, causing wonder to those that behold them, and taking away admiration from them that admire the force and strength of fire and powder in carrying on a weighty bullet from the mouth of a cannon, whereas here the fire of this mountaine hath cast up into the aire and tumbled downe to the bottom of it such rockes as in bignesse exceed a reasonable house, and which not the strength of any twenty Mules (as hath been tried) have been able to remove. The fire which flasheth out of the top of this mountain is sometimes more and sometimes lesse; yet while I lived in the City, on a certaine time for the space of three or foure dayes and nights it did so burne that my friend Mr. _Cabannas_ confidently avouched to mee and others, that standing one night in his window he had with the light of that fire read a letter, the distance being above three _English_ miles. The roaring also of this monstrous beast is not constantly alike, but is greater in the summer time then in the winter, that is, from _October_ to the end of _April_, then all the rest of the yeer; for then it seems, the winds entring into those concavities set the fire on work harder then at other times, and cause the mountaine to roare and the earth about to quake. There was a time three yeers before my comming to that City, when the inhabitants expected nothing but utter ruine and destruction, and durst not abide within their houses for nine dayes (the earthquakes continuing and increasing more and more) but made bowers and arbours in the Market place, placing there their Idoll Saints and Images, especially St. _Sebastian_, whom they hoped would deliver them from that judgement, and for this purpose they dayly carried him through the streets in solemn and idolatrous procession and adoration. But all the while I lived there the noise within the mountaine, the smoake and flashes of fire without, and the Summer earth-quakes were such that with the use and custome of them I never feared any thing, but thought that City the healthiest and pleasantest place of dwelling that ever I came into in all my travels. The climate is very temperate, farre exceeding either _Mexico_ or _Guaxaca_. Neither are the two fore-named Cities better stored with fruits, herbes for salets, provision of fish, and flesh, Beef, Mutton, Veale, Kid, Fowles, Turkies, Rabbets, Quailes, Partridges, Pheasants, and of _Indian_ and _Spanish_ Wheat, then is this City: from the South Sea (which lyeth in some places not above twelve leagues from it) and from the Rivers of the South Sea Coast, and from the fresh Lake of _Amatitlan_ and _Petapa_, and from another Lake lying three or foure leagues from _Chimalienango_; it is well and plentifully provided for of fish. But for Beef there is such plenty, that it exceeds all parts of _America_, without exception, as may be known by the Hydes, which are sent yeerly to _Spain_ from the country of _Guatemala_, where they commonly kill their Cattell, more for the game of their Hydes in _Spain_, then for the goodnesse or fatnesse of the flesh, which though it bee not to bee compared to our _English_ Beef, yet it is good mans meat, and so cheap, that in my time it was commonly sold at thirteene pound and a halfe for half a Riall, the least coyne there, and as much as three pence here. Though all about this Country there are very great and spatious Estancia's, or Farmes for breeding onely, even neer to the _Golfo Dulce_, where the ships ride that come from _Spain_, yet from _Comayagua_, St. _Salvador_ and _Nicaragua_, is _Guatemala_ stored; But above all are the great Estancia's in the South Sea Coast or Marsh, where in my time there was a Grazier that reckoned up going in his owne Estancia and ground, forty thousand heads of Beasts, small and great, besides many which are called there Simarrones, or wild Cattell, which were strayed among the Woods and Mountaines, and could not bee gathered in with the rest, but were hunted by the Blackmores like wild Bores, and daily shot to death, least they should too much increase and doe hurt. My selfe chanced to bee present at the Fair of the Town of _Petapa_, with a friend named _Lope de Chaves_, (who was as they call there, Obligado, or charged to provide flesh for six or seven Townes thereabouts) who at one bargain, and of one man, bought six thousand head of Cattell, great and small, paying one with another eighteen Rials, or nine English shillings a head.

The manner and custome of _Guatemala_ for the better providing both Beef and Mutton for it, and the Country Townes about, is this. Nine daies before Michaelmas, every day Proclamation is made about the City for an Obligado, or one that will bee bound to the City and Country for competent provision of Flesh meat upon forfeiture of such a summe of money to his Majesty, if hee faile, as shall bee agreed upon between him and the Court, and to the Inhabitants of the City; if hee fail in beef, hee is to allow in Mutton so many pounds at the same rate as hee should have allowed beef. If the Obligado faile in Mutton, hee is to allow in Fowle flesh, so many pounds and at the same rate as hee was to allow the Mutton; and this with consideration of the family, what competent allowance of flesh meat shall bee judged for a day, or the dayes that the Obligado shall fail. Besides this the Proclamation is made for whom offers most to his Majesty for one yeers Obligation. So that sometimes it happeneth that the eight daies severall men come into the Court, offering more and more, till upon the ninth day and last Proclamation, the Office is setled for one yeere upon him that hath offered most unto his Majesty. Thus many Butchers are not allowed but one onely Obligado, who also is abridged to so many pound for so much mony, so that if any other besides him offer to kill or sell, he may follow an action and the Court against him: Thus the Obligado (who commonly is a monied man) buyeth by the hundred or by the thousand, as for the present hee findeth the expence of the City, without hee bee himself such a Grazier, as hath Cattell enough of his owne. Though Mutton bee not so plentifull as is Beef, yet there never wants from the Valley of _Mixco, Pinola, Petapa_, and _Amatitlan_, and the _Marsh_ and other places. In the Valley fore-named I lived, and was well acquainted with one _Alonso Capata_, who had constantly going in the Valley four thousand sheep. _Guatemala_ therefore is so well stored with good provision, plentifull and cheap, that it is hard to finde in it a begger, for with halfe a Riall the poorest may buy beef for a weeke, and with a few Cacao's they may have bread of _Indian_ Maiz, if not of _Spanish_ Wheat. This City may consist of about five thousand families, besides a Suburb of _Indians_ called _el Barrio de Sto. Domingo_, where may bee two hundred families more. The best part of the City is that which joyneth to this Suburb of _Indians_, and is called also _el Barrio Santo de Domingo_, by reason of the Cloister of Saint _Dominick_ which standeth in it. Here are the richest and best shops of the City, with the best buildings, most of the houses being new, and stately. Here is also a dayly Tianguez (as they call it) or petty Market, where some _Indians_ all the day sit selling fruits, Herbs, and Cacao, but at the foure in the afternoone, this Market is filled for a matter of an houre, where the _Indian_ women meet to sell their Country slap, (which is dainties to the Criolians) as Atolle, Pinole, scalded Plantins, butter of the Cacao, puddings made of _Indian_ Maiz, with a bit of Fowle or fresh Porke in them seasoned with much red biting Chile, which they call Anacatamales. The trading of the City is great, for by Mules it partakes of the best commodities of _Mexico, Guaxaca_ and _Chiapa_, and Southward of _Nicaragua_, and _Costarica_. By Sea it hath commerce with _Peru_, by two Sea Ports and Havens, the one called _la Villa de la Trinidad_, the Village of the Trinity, which lyeth Southward from it five and twenty leagues; and by another called _el Realejo_, which lyeth five or six and forty leagues from it. It hath traffique with _Spain_ by the North Sea from _Golfo dulce_, lying threescore leagues from it. It is not so rich as other Cities, yet for the quantity of it, it yeelds to none. There were in my time five (besides many other Merchants who were judged worth twenty thousand Duckats, thirty thousand, fifty thousand, some few a hundred thousand) who were judged of equall wealth, and generally reported to bee worth each of them five hundred thousand Duckats; the first was _Thomas de Siliezer_, a Biscain born, and _Alcalde de Corte_, the Kings High Justice, or chief Officer at Court; the second was _Antonio Justiniano_, a _Genovois_ born, and one that bore often Offices in the City, and had many Tenements and houses, especially a great and rich Farme for corn and Wheat in the Valley of _Mexico_. The third was _Pedro de Lira_, born in _Castilia_, the fourth and fifth, _Antonio Fernandez_, and _Bartolome Nunnez_, both _Portingals_, whereof the first in my time departed from _Guatemala_ for some reasons which here I must conceale. The other foure I left there, the three of them living at that end of the City called _Barrio de Santo Domingo_, or the street of St. _Dominick_, whose houses and presence makes that street excell all the rest of the City, and their wealth and trading were enough to denominate _Guatemala_ a very rich City. The Government of all the Country about, and of all _Honduras, Soconusco, Comayagua, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Vera Paz, Suchutepeques_, and _Chiapa_, is subordinate unto the Chancery of _Guatemala_; for although every Governour over these severall Provinces is appointed by the King and Councell of _Spain_, yet when they come to those parts to the enjoyment of their charge and execution office, then their actions, if unjust, are weighed, judged, censured, and condemned by the Court residing in the City. This Court of Chancery consisteth of a President, six Judges, one Kings Attourney, and two chief Justices of Court. The President, though hee have not the name and title of Viceroy, as they of _Mexico_ and _Peru_, yet his power is as great and absolute as theirs. His Pension from the King is but twelve thousands Duckats a yeer; but besides this, if he be covetous, hee makes by bribes and trading twice as much more, nay what hee list, as was seen in the _Count de la Gomera_, President of that City and Chancery for the space of fourteen yeers, who departed in old age from _Guatemala_ to _Canaria_ (where was his house and place of birth) worth Millions of Duckats. After him succeeded _Don Juan de Guzman_, formerly President of _Santo Domingo_, who losing his Wife and Lady in the way, lost also his former spirit and courage, betaking himselfe wholly to his devotions, contemning wealth and riches, governing with love and mildnesse, which made the rest of the Judges, who were all for lucre, soone weary him out of his office, continuing in it but five yeers. His successor (whom I left there when I came away) was _Don Gonzalo de Paz y Lorencana_, who was promoted from the Presidency of _Panama_ to that place, and came into it with such a spirit of covetousnesse as the like had not been seen in any former President. Hee forbad all gaming in private houses in the City, which there is much used (though by women not so much as in _Mexico_) not for that hee hated it, but because hee envied others, what they got and gained by their Cards, drawing to himselfe thereby all that gaine, spending sometimes in one night foure and twenty paire of Cards, appointing a Page to assist at the Tables, and to see the box well paid for every paire of Cards, which for his, and his Court respect, was seldome lesse then a crown or two for every paire. Thus did hee lick up with his Cards most of the gamesters gaines, and would grudge and pick quarrels with such rich men whom hee knew to affect gaming, if they frequented not his Court at night time for that bewitching Recreation.

The Pension which the King alloweth to every Judge of Chancery is foure thousand duckats yeerly, and three thousand to his Attorney, all which is paid out of the Kings Exchequer abiding in that City. Yet what besides they get by bribes, and trading is so much, that I have heard a Judge himselfe _Don Luis de las Infantas_ say, that though a Judges place at _Mexico_ and _Lima_ be more honourable, yet none more profitable then _Guatemala_. In my time were such causes at Chancery tried, as had never been, of murthers, robberies, and oppressions, and whereas it was expected the offendants some should be hanged, some banished, some imprisoned, some by fines impoverished, bribes took all off, so that I never knew one hanged in that City for the space of above eight yeers. The Churches though they be not so fair and rich as those of _Mexico_, yet they are for that place wealthy enough. There is but one Parish Church and a Cathedrall which standeth in the chiefe Market-place. All the other Churches belong to Cloisters, which are of Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, Augustines, and Jesuites, and two of Nuns, called the Conception and _St. Catharine_. The Dominicans, Franciscans, and Mercenarians are stately Cloisters, containing neer a hundred Friers a piece; but above all is the Cloister where I lived, of the Dominicans, to which is joyned in a great Walk before the Church the Universitie of the City. The yeerly revenues which come into this Cloister, what from the _Indian_ Towns belonging to it, what from a water-mill, what from a farme for corne, what from an Estancia, or farme for Horses and Mules, what from an Ingenio, or farme of Sugar, what from a Mine of silver given unto it the yeer 1633. are judged to be (excepting all charges) at least thirty thousand duckats; wherewith those fat Friers feast themselves, and have to spare to build, and enrich their Church and Altars. Besides much treasure belonging to it, there are two things in it, which the _Spaniards_ in merriment would often tell me that the _English_ nation did much inquire after, when they tooke any ship of theirs at sea, and that they feared I was come to spie them, which were a Lampe of silver hanging before the high Altar, so big as required the strength of three men to hale it up with a rope; but the other is of more value; which is a picture of the Virgin _Mary_ of pure silver, and of the stature of a reasonable tall woman, which standeth in a Tabernacle made on purpose in a Chappel of the Rosary with at least a dozen lampes of silver also burning before it. A hundred thousand duckats might soone be made up of the treasure belonging to that Church and cloister. Within the walls of the Cloister there is nothing wanting which may further pleasure and recreation. In the lower Cloister there is a spatious garden, in the midst whereof is a fountains casting up the water, and spouting it out of at least a dozen pipes, which fill two ponds full of fishes, and with this their constant running give musicke to the whole Cloister, and encouragement to many water-fowles and Ducks to bath and wash themselves therein. Yet further within the Cloister, there are other two gardens for fruits and herbage, and in the one a pond of a quarter of a mile long, all paved at the bottom, and a low stone wall about, where is a boat for the Friers recreation, who often goe thither to fish, and doe sometimes upon a suddaine want or occasion take out from thence as much fish as will give to the whole Cloister a dinner. The other Cloisters of the City are also rich; but next to the Dominicans is the Cloister of Nuns, called the Conception, in which at my time there were judged to live a thousand women, not all Nuns, but Nuns, and their serving maids or slaves, and yong children which were brought up and taught to worke by the Nuns. The Nuns that are professed bring with them their portions, five hundred duckats the least, some six hundred, some seven, and some a thousand, which portions after a few yeers (and continuing to the Cloister after the Nuns decease) come to make up a great yeerly rent. They that will have maids within to wait on them may, bringing the bigger portion, or allowing yeerly for their servants diet. In this Cloister lived that _Donna Juana de Maldonado_ Judge _Juan Maldonado de Paz_ his daughter, whom the Bishop so much conversed withall. She was very fair and beautifull, and not much above twenty yeers of age, and yet his love blinding him, he strove what he could in my time against all the ancient Nuns and Sisters, to make her Superiour and Abbesse, and caused such a mutiny and strife in that Cloister, which was very scandalous to the whole City, and made many rich Merchants and Gentlemen run to the Cloister with their swords drawne, threatning to breake in amongst the Nuns to defend their daughters against the powerfull faction which the Bishop had wrought for _Donna Juana de Maldonado_: which they had performed if the President _Don Juan de Guzman_ had not sent _Juan Maldonado de Paz_, the yong Nuns father, to intreat her to desist in regard of her yong age from her ambitious thoughts or being Abbesse. With this the mutiny both within and without ceased, the Bishop got but shame, and his yong Sister continued as before under command and obedience, to a more religious, grave, and aged Nun then her selfe. This _Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz_ was the wonder of all that Cloister, yea of all the City for her excellent voice, and skill in musicke, and in carriage, and education yeelded to none abroad nor within; she was witty, well spoken and above all a _Calliope_, or Muse for ingenious and suddain verses; which the Bishop said, so much moved him to delight in her company and conversation. Her father thought nothing too good, nor too much for her; and therefore having no other children, he daily conferred upon her riches, as might best beseem a Nun, as rich and costly Cabinets faced with gold and silver, pictures and Idols for her chamber with crownes and jewels to adorne them; which with other presente from the Bishop (who dying in my time left not wherewith to pay his debts, for that as the report went, he had spent himselfe and given all unto this Nun) made this _Donna Juana de Maldonado_ so rich and stately, that at her owne charges shee built for herselfe a new quarter within the Cloister with roomes and galleries, and a private garden-walke, and kept at worke and to wait on her halfe a dozen _Black-more_ maids; but above all she placed her delight in a private Chappel or Closet to pray in, being hung with rich hangings, and round about it costly lamina's (as they call them) or pictures painted upon brasse set in blacke Ebony frames with corners of gold, some of silver brought to her from _Rome_; her Altar was accordingly decked with Jewels, Candlesticks, Crownes, Lamps, and covered with a Canopie embroidered with gold; in her Closet she had her small organ, and many sorts of musicall instruments, whereupon she played sometimes by herselfe, sometimes with her best friends of the Nuns; and here especially she entertained with musicke her beloved the Bishop. Her Chappel or place of devotion was credibly reported about the City to be worth at least six thousand Crownes, which was enough for a Nun that had vowed chastity, poverty, and obedience. But all this after her decease she was to leave to the Cloister; and doubtlesse with this State, and riches she would win more and more the hearts of the common sort of Nuns, till she had made a strong party, which by this may have made her Abbesse. Thus is ambition and desire of command and power crept into the walls of Nunneries, like the abominations in the wall of _Ezekiel_, and hath possessed the hearts of Nuns, which should be humble, poore, and mortified Virgins.

But besides this one Nun, there are many more, and also Friers, who are very rich, for if the City be rich (as is this) and great trading in it, they will be sure to have a share. Great plenty and wealth hath made the inhabitants as proud and vicious, as are those of _Mexico_. Here is not onely Idolatry, but Fornication and uncleannesse as publike as in any place of the _India's_: The _Mulatto's, Black-mores, Mestica's, Indians_, and all common sort of people are much made on by the greater and richer sort, and goe as gallantly apparrelled as doe those of _Mexico_, fearing neither a Vulcan or mountaine of water on the one side, which they confesse hath once powred out a flood and river executing Gods wrath against sin there committed; neither a Vulcan of fire, or mouth of hell on the other side, roaring within and threatning to raine upon them _Sodoms_ ruine and destruction; neither the weakness of their habitation; lying wide open on every side, without walls, or workes, or bulwarkes, to defend them, or without guns, drakes, bullets, or any Ammunition to scare away an approaching enemy, who may safely come and without resistance upon them who live as professed enemies of Jesus Christ. This is the City of _St. James_ or _Santiago de Guatemala_, the head of a vaste and ample Dominion, which extendeth it selfe nine hundred miles to _Nicoya_ and _Costa Rica_ South-ward; three hundred miles to _Chiapa_ and _Zoques_ North-ward; a hundred and fourescore miles to the further parts of _Vera Paz_, and the _Golfo dulce_ East-ward; and to the South-sea twenty or thirty, in some places fourty miles West-ward.

From _Tecoantepeque_ (which is no harbour for any great ships) which standeth from _Guatemala_ at least foure hundred miles, there is no landing place for ships neerer to this City then is the village _de la Trinidad_, or of the Trinity. The chiefe commodities which from along that coast are brought to _Guatemala_, are from the Provinces of _Soconuzco_ and _Suchutepeques_, which are extreame hot, and subject to thunder and lightning, where groweth scarce any remarkeable commodity, save only _Cacao, Achiotte, Mechasuchil, Bainillas_ and other drugs for Chocolatte, except it be some _Indigo_ and _Cochinil_ about _St. Antonio_, which is the chiefe and head Town of all the _Suchutepeques_. But all the coast neer joyning to _Guatemala_, especially about a Towne called _Izquinta_, or _Izquintepeque_ twelve leagues from _Guatemala_, is absolutely the richest part of the Dominion of this City; for there is made the greatest part of the _Indigo_ which is sent from _Honduras_ to _Spaine_, besides the mighty farmes of Cattel which are all along that marsh. Though the living there be profitable and the soile rich, yet it is uncomfortable by reason of the great heat, thundrings and lightnings, especially from _May_ to _Michaelmas_. If _Guatemala_ be strong (though not in weapons or Ammunition) in people, it is strong from hence from a desperate sort of _Black-mores_, who are slaves in those Estancia's and farms of _Indigo_. Though they have no weapons but a Machette, which is a short Tuck, or lances to run at the wild Cattel, yet with these they are so desperate, that the City of _Guatemala_ hath often been afraid of them, and the Masters of their owne slaves and servants. Some of them feare not to encounter a Bull though wild and mad, and to graple in the rivers (which are many there) with Crocodiles, or Lagarto's, as there they call them, till they have overmastered them, and brought them out to land from the water.

This hot, but rich Country runnes on by the Sea side unto the Village of the Trinity, which (though somewhat dangerous) yet is a haven for ships from _Panama, Peru_, and _Mexico_; It serves to enrich _Guatemala_, but not to strengthen it, for it hath neither Fort, nor Bulwarke, nor Castle, nor any Ammunition to defend it selfe. Between this Village and the other Haven called _Realejo_, there is a great Creek from the Sea; where small vessels doe use to come in for fresh water and Victuals to St. _Miguel_ a Towne of _Spaniards_ and _Indians_, from whence those that travaile to _Realejo_ passe over in lesse then a day to a Town of _Indians_ called _La Vieja_, two miles from _Realejo_, whither the journey by land from St. _Miguel_ is of at least three daies. But neither this Creeke or Arme of the Sea is fortified (which might be done with one or two peeces of Ordnance at most placed at the mouth of the seas entrance) neither is the _Realejo_ strong with any Ammunition, no nor with people, for it consists not of above two hundred families, and most of them are _Indians_ and _Mestico's_, a people of no courage, and very unfit to defend such an open passage to _Guatemala_ and _Nicaragua_, which here begins and continues in small and petty _Indian_ Townes unto _Leon_ and _Granada_.