Chapter XXII (3)

Before wee resolved to goe to shore, wee tasted of those _Indian_ fruites, the plantin above all pleasing our taste and Palate. Wee could not but much wonder at that sight never yet seene by us of people naked, with their haire hanging down to the middle of their backes, with their faces cut out in severall fashions, or flowers, with thin plates hanging at their Noses, like Hog-rings, and fauning upon us like children, some speaking in their unknowne tongue, others using signs for such things as we imagined they desired. Their signe for some of our _Spanish_ Wine was easily perceived, and their request most willingly granted to by our men, who with one reasonable Cup of _Spanish_ Sacke presently tumbled up their heeles, and left them like swine tumbling on the Deck of our Ship. After a while that our people had sported with these rude and Savage Indians, our two Cock-Boates were ready to carry to shore such as either had clothes to wash, or a desire to bathe themselves in a River of fresh Water which is within the Island, or a mind to set their feet again upon unmoveable Land, after so many daies of uncertain footing in a floating and reeling Ship. But that day being farre spent, our Fryers resolved to stay in the Ship, and the next whole day to visit the Island; many of the Mariners and Passengers of all the Ships went that evening to shore, some returning at night, and some without feare continuing with the _Indians_ all night on shore. The next morning my selfe and most of our Fryers went and having hired some _Spaniards_ to wash our cloathes, we wandred sometimes all together sometimes two and two, and sometimes one alone about the Island, meeting with many _Indians_, who did us no hurt, but rather like children fauned upon us, offering us of their fruits, and begging of us whatsoever toies of pins, points or gloves they espied about us. Wee ventured to goe to some of their houses which stood by a pleasant River, and were by them kindly entertained, eating of their fish, and wild deeres flesh. About noone wee chanced to meet with some of the Jesuites of _Santa Gertrudis_ Ship in the midst of the Mountain, who were very earnest in talke with a _Mulatto_, all naked like the rest of the _Indians_. This _Mulatto_ was a Christian, born in _Sevill_ in _Spain_, and had been slave there formerly to a rich Merchant, his name was Lewis, and spoke the _Spanish_ Language very perfectly. Some twelve yeeres before, hee had run away from his Master by reason of hard and slavish usage, and having got to _Cales_, offering his service to a Gentleman then bound for _America_, the Gentleman fearing not that his true Master should ever have more notice of him from a new World, took him a Ship board with him as his slave. The _Mulatto_ remembring the many stripes which hee had suffered from his first cruell Master, and fearing that from _America_ hee might by some intelligence or other be sent back again to _Spain_, and also jealous of his Second Master (whose blowes hee had begun to suffer in the Ship) that hee would prove as cruell as his first; when the Ships arrived at _Guadalupe_, resolved rather to die among the _Indians_ (which hee knew might be his hardest fortune) then evermore to live in slavery under _Spaniards_. So casting his life upon good or bad fortune, hee hid himselfe among the trees in the Mountaine till the Ships were departed; who after being found by the _Indians_, and giving them some toyes which hee had got by stealth from his Master, hee was entertained by them, they liking him, and hee them. Thus continued this poore Christian slave among those Barbarians from yeare to yeare; who had care to hide himselfe at the comming of the _Spanish_ Fleet yearely. In twelve yeares that hee had thus continued amongst them, hee had learned their language, was married to an _Indian_, by whom hee had three children living. The Jesuites by chance having met with him, and perceiving more by the Wooll upon his head, that hee was a _Mulatto_, then by his black and tauny skin (for those _Indians_ paint themselves all over with a red colour) they presently imagined the truth that hee could not come thither but with some _Spaniard_, so entering into discourse with him, and finding him to speak _Spanish_, they got the whole truth of him. Then wee joyning with the Jesuites, began to perswade the poore Christian to forsake that heathenish life, wherein his soule could never bee saved, promising him if hee would goe along with us, hee should bee free from slavery forever. Poore Soule, though hee had lived twelve yeares without hearing a word of the true God, worshipping stockes and stones with the other Heathens; yet when hee heard again of Christ, of eternall damnation in hells torments, and of everlasting Salvation in Heavens joyes, hee began to weep, assuring us that hee would goe with us, were it not for his Wife and Children, whom hee tenderly loved, and could not forsake them. To this wee replyed, that thee might be a meanes of saving likewise their Souls, if hee would bring them with him; and further that wee would assure him that care should bee taken that neither hee, his Wife, nor children should ever want meanes competent for the maintenance of their lives. The _Mulatto_ hearkned well to all this, though a suddaine feare surprized him, because certaine _Indians_ passed by, and noted his long conference with us. The poore and timorous _Mulatto_ then told us, that hee was in danger, for having been knowen by us, and that hee feared the _Indians_ would kill him, and suspect that wee would steale him away; which if they did, and it were noised about the island, wee should soone see their love changed into cruell rage and Mutiny. Wee perswaded him not to feare any thing they could doe to us, who had Souldiers, Guns and Ordnance to secure ours and his life also, wishing him to resolve to bring his Wife and Children but to the Sea side, where our men were drying their Clothes, and would defend him, and a Boat should bee ready to convey him with his Wife and Children a Ship board. The _Mulatto_ promised to doe as wee had counselled him, and that hee would entice his Wife and Children to the Sea side to barter with us their Wares for ours, desiring some of the Jesuites (whom hee said he should know by their black Coates) to bee there ready for him with a Cock-Boat. _Lewis_ departed, as to us hee seemed resolute in what hee had agreed; Our joy likewise was great with the hope of bringing to the light of Christianity five Soules out of the darknesse of heathenish Idolatry. The Jesuites who had begun with this _Mulatto_ were desirous that the happy end and conclusion might bee their glory. So taking their leaves of us, they hastened to the Sea to informe the Admirall of what they had done, and to provide that the Cock-Boat of their Ship might bee in readinesse to receive _Lewis_, and his family. Wee likewise returned to the shore to see if our Shirts, and Clothes were dry. Most of us (among whom my selfe was one) finding our Linnen ready and our Boat on Shore went aboard to our Ship, leaving two or three of our company with many of other Ships on shore, especially the Jesuites waiting for their prey. When we came to our Ship, most of our Fryers with what love they had found in the Barbarians, were inflamed with a new zeale of staying in that Island, and converting those Heathens to Christianity, apprehending it an easie businesse (they being a loving people) and no wayes dangerous to us, by reason of the Fleet that yearely passeth that way, and might enquire after our usage. But by some it was objected, that it was a rash and foolish zeale with great hazard of their lives, and many inconveniences were objected against so blind and simple an attempt. But those that were most zealous slighted all reasons, saying that the worst that could happen to them could bee but to be butchered, sacrificed and eaten up; and that for such a purpose they had come out of _Spain_ to be crowned with the Crowne of Martyrdome for confessing and preaching Jesus Christ. While wee were hot in this solemne consultation, behold an uproare on the shoare; our people running to and fro to save their lives, leaving their clothes, and hasting to the Cock-Boats, filling them so fast and so full, that some sunke with all the people in them; Above al, most pitiful and lamentable were the cries of some of our women, many casting themselves to the Sea, choosing rather to venture to be taken up by some Boat, or at worst to bee drowned, then to bee taken and to bee cruelly butchered by the _Indians_. Wee wondering at this suddain alteration, not knowing the cause of it, at last perceived the Arrowes to come out thick from the Wood from behind the Trees, and thereby guessed at the truth that the Barbarians were mutinied. The uproare lasted not halfe an houre, for presently our Admirall shot off two or three Peeces of Ordnance and sent a Company of Souldiers to shore to guard it and our people with their Muskets; which was well and suddainly performed, and all the _Indians_ soon dispersed. Three of our Fryers who had remained on the land, our Cock-Boat brought them to us with more of our Passengers, among whom one Fryer _John de la Cueva_, was dangerously shot and wounded in one of his shoulders; this Fryer had beene earnest with mee to stay on shore with him, which I refused, and so escaped that cruell and fiery onset of the _Indians_. Besides those that were drowned and taken up at shore (which were fifteen persons) two Jesuites were found dead upon the Sand, three more dangerously wounded, three passengers likewise slaine, ten wounded, besides three more of the Fleet which could never bee found alive or dead, and were thought to have beene found in the Wood by the _Indians_, and to have beene murthered by them. Our _Mulatto Lewis_ came not according to his word; but in his stead a suddaine Army of treacherous _Indians_, which gave us motive enough to thinke, that either _Lewis_ himselfe had discovered the Jesuites Plot to take him away with his Wife and Children; or that the _Indians_ suspecting it by his talke with us had made him confesse it. And certainly this was the ground of their Mutiny; for whereas _Lewis_ before had said, that hee would know the Jesuites by their black Coats, it seemes hee had well described them above all the rest unto the _Indians_, for (as it was after well observed) most of their Arrowes was directed to the black Markes, and so five of them in little above a quarter of an houre slaine and wounded. All that night our Souldiers guarded the Coast, often shooting off their Muskets, to affright the _Indians_, who appeared no more unto us. All that night wee slept little, for wee watched our Ship; lest the _Indians_ in their Canoas should set upon us and take us asleepe. Some lamented the dead and drowned, others pitied our wounded Fryer _John De la Cueva_, who all that night lay in great torment and misery, others laughed and jeared at those zealous Fryers, who would have stayed in that Island to Convert the Barbarians, saying they had had their full desire of Martyrdome, for had they beene but that night with the _Indians_, doubtlesse they had beene shred for their Suppers. But now wee perceived their zeale was coole, and they desired no more to stay with such a Barbarous kind of People; but rather wished the Admirall would shoot off the warning Peece for us all to take up our Anchors, and depart from so dangerous a place. In the morning all the Ships made hast to take in such fresh water as was necessary for their voiage yet to _America_, a strong watch being kept along the Coast, and a Guard guarding our men to the River; and all the morning while this was doing not one _Indian_ could bee found or seen, nor our three men that were missing, appeared. Thus at noone with a pleasant and prosperous Gale we hoisted up our Sailes, leaving the Islands, and harbour of _Guadalupe_.

CHAP. VII.

_Of our further Sayling to St._ John de Ulhua, aliàs, Vera Crux; _and of our landing there._

Upon the 22 day of _August_, wee sailed so pleasantly that wee soone left the sight of the Islands; The _Indians_ uproare had weaved for us a thred of long discourse; It made some hate their calling to teach and convert _Indians_, but _Calvo_ hee encouraged us, telling us many Stories of the good and gentle nature of the _Indians_ of _Philippinas_, to whom we were going, and that most of them were Christians already, who esteemed their Preists as Gods upon the earth; and that those that were not as yet converted to Christianity, were kept in awe by the power of the _Spaniards_. Our chiefe care the first two or three daies was to looke to our plantins which we got from the _Indians_. This fruit pleased us all exceedingly, judging it to bee as good, or better then any fruit in _Spain_. It is not gathered ripe from the tree; but being gathered green, it is hung up some daies, and so ripens and growes yellow and mellow, and every bit as sweet as honey. Our Sugar Canes were no lesse pleasing unto us, whilst chewing the pith, we refreshed and sweetned our mouthes with the juice. We fed for the first week almost upon nothing but _Tortois_; which seemed likewise to us that had never before seen it, one of the Sea monsters, the Shell being so hard as to beare any Cart wheel, and in some above two yards broad; when first they were opened, we were amazed to see the number of egges that were in them, a thousand being the least that we judged to be in some of them. Our _Spaniards_ made with them an excellent broth with all sorts of spices. The meat seemed rather flesh then Sea fish, which being corned with salt, and hung up two or three dayes in the aire, tasted like Veal. Thus our Hens, our Sheep, our powdred Beef, and gammons of Bacon, which we brought from _Spain_, were some dayes slighted, while with greedy stomacks we fell hard to our Sea Veale.

After foure dayes sail, our Fryer _John de la Cueva_, who had been shot by the _Indians_, died; all his body being swelled, which gave us just occasion to thinke, that the arrow which was shot into his shoulder was poisoned. His buriall was as solemnly performed as could be at Sea. His grave being the whole Ocean, he had weighty stones hung to his feet, two more to his shoulders, and one to his brest; and then the superstitious _Romish Dirige_ and _Requiem_ being sung for his soul, his Corpse being held out to the Sea on the ship side, with ropes ready to let him fall, all the ship crying out three times, _buen Viaie_ (that is, a good Voiage) to his soul chiefly, and also to his Corpse ready to travail to the deep to feed the Whales; at the first cry all the Ordnance were shot off, the ropes on a suddain loosed, and _John de la Cueva_ with the weight of heavy stones plunged deep into the Sea, whom no mortall eyes ever more beheld. The like we saw performed in the ship of _Santa Gertrudis_, to another Jesuite, one of the three who had been dangerously wounded by the _Indians_ of _Guadalupe_; who likewise died like our Fryer, his body being swelled as with poyson. Now our sailing was more comfortable then before; for we passed in the sight of the land of _Puerto Rico_, and then of the great Island of _Sto. Domingo_; and here our company began to be lessened, some departing to _Puerto Rico_, and _Sto. Domingo_, others to _Cartagena_, and _Havana_, and _Honduras, Jamaica_, and _Jucatan_. We remained now alone the Fleet for _Mexico_; and so sailed till we came to what the _Spaniards_ call _la Sonda_, or the sound of _Mexico_; for here we often sounded the Sea; which was so calme, that a whole week we were stayed for want of wind, scarce stirring from the place where first we were caught by the calme. Here likewise we had great sport in fishing, filling again our bellies with _Dorados_, and saving that provision which we had brought from _Spain_. But the heat was so extraordinary, that the day was no pleasure unto us; for the repercussion of the suns heat upon the still water and pitch of our ships, kindled a scorching fire, which all the day distempered our bodies with a constant running sweat, forcing us to cast off most of our clothes. The evenings and nights were somewhat more comfortable, yet the heat which the sun had left in the pitched ribs and plankes of the ship was such, that under deck and in our Cabins wee were not able to sleep, but in our shirts were forced to walke, or sit, or lie upon the deck. The Mariners fell to washing themselves and to swimming, till the infortunate death of one in the ship called _St. Francisco_, made them suddainly leave off that sport. The neerer wee come to the main land, the sea abounds with a monstrous fish called by the _Spaniards, Tiburon_. Some mistake this fish for the _Caiman_, or _Crocodile_, holding them both for one; and thinking that it is only the _Caiman_ or _Crocodile_ (by abuse called _Tiburon_) which devoures mans flesh, a whole joynt at a bit in the water. But the mistake is grosse, for the _Caiman_ is plated all over with shells, whereas the _Tiburon_ hath no shells, but only like other great Sea fishes, hath a thick skin. The _Caiman_ though the _Indians_ eat of it, yet the _Spaniards_ hate it; who eat of the _Tiburon_; and in our ship catching one with a tridentall iron Fork, and haling him with a Cable rope to the ship side, and then binding him with it, (being as much as a dozen or fifteen men could do to hoise him up into the ship) we found him to be a most monstrous creature, twelve els long at least, which we salted, and found likewise to eat like flesh, as hath been said of the _Tortois_. This kind is as ravenous after mans flesh as the _Crocodile_, and many of them were to be seen in this Sound of _Mexico_.

The _Spaniards_ bathing themselves dayly by the ships side, (where there is no such danger of the _Tiburon_; who useth not to come too neere the ships) one Mariner of the ship called _St. Francisco_ being more venturous then the rest, and offering to swimme from his ship, to see some friends in another not farre off, chanced to be a most unfortunate prey to one of them, who before any boat could be set out to help him, was thrice seen to bee pulled under water by the Monster, who had devoured a leg, an arme, and part of his shoulder; the rest of the body was after found and taken up, and carried to _S. Francisco_, and there buried in the forme and manner as hath been said of our Fryer _John de la Cueva. They that goe downe to the sea in ships, these see the workes of the Lord, and his wonders in the deepe, Ps._ 107. 23, 24. Here they shall see not only Whales, but other Fishes like Monsters mastering strong and valiant men, with severall sets of sharpe, strong and mighty teeth, devouring at one bit whole limmes with flesh and bones together. This mischance sadded all our Fleet for three daies till it pleased God to refresh our burning heat with a cool and prosperous wind, driving us out of that calm Sound, which (if we had continued in it with that excessive heat) might have proved most unsound and unhealthy to our bodies. Three daies after we had sailed, being Munday in the morning about seven of the clock, one of our Fryers saying Masse, and all the people in the ship kneeling to hear it, and to adore their bread God, one Mariner with a loud and suddain voice crieth out _Tierra, Tierra, Tierra_, Land, Land, Land, which rejoyced the hearts of all that were in the ship, as it seemed, more then their Masse, for leaving that, and their God upon the Altar with the Preist to eat him alone, they arose from their knees, to behold the Continent of _America_. Great was the joy of all the ships that day; and great was the slaughter which our old _Calvo_ made among his fowles, (which he had spared formerly) to feast that day his Fryers. About ten of the clock the whole face of the land was visibly apparent, and wee with full sale running to imbrace it. But our wise Admirall knowing the danger of the Coast, and especially the dangerous entring into the Haven, by reason of the many rockes that lie about it, and are known only by markes and flags set out to give all ships warning of them; perceiving that with the wind wherewith wee sailed then, we should not come till towards evening to the Port: and lastly, fearing lest some North-wind (which is dangerous upon that Coast, and ordinary in the month of _September_) should in the night arise, and endanger all our ships upon the rockes; he therefore called to Councell all the Pilots, to know whether it were best to keep on our sailing with full sail that day, with hopes to get that day in good time into the Haven, or else with the middle sail only to draw neer, that the next morning with more security wee might with the help of boats from land be guided in. The result of the Councell was not to venture that day too neer unto the Port, for fear of being benighted, but to pull down all, but the middle sail. The wind began to calme, and our ships to move slowly towards land, and so we continued till night. A double watch was kept that night in our ship, and the Pilot was more watchfull himselfe and more carefull then at other times; But our Fryers betooke themselves to their rest; which continued not long; for before midnight the wind turned to the North, which caused a suddain and generall cry and uproar in ours, and all the other ships. Our Mariners came to the Fryers, using almost the same words of Jonah 1. 6. _What meanest thou, O sleeper? Arise call upon thy God, if so bee that God will thinke upon us, that we perish not._ They changed the name of God into the blessed Virgin _Mary_, in whom they seeme to confide in such occasions more then in God himselfe. Their feare was more for the apprehension of danger by that kind of wind, and of what might happen, then for what as yet the wind threatned, which was not strong nor boisterous; however hallowed wax candles were lighted by the Fryers, knees bowed to _Mary_, Letanies and other hymnes and prayers sung aloud unto her, till towards the dawning of the day; when behold the North wind ceased, our wonted gale began to blow again, it being Gods will and pleasure, and no effect of the howling Fryers prayers to _Mary_, who yet superstitiously to deceive the simple people, cryed out, _Milagro, Milagro, Milagro,_ a miracle, a miracle, a miracle. By eight a clock in the morning wee came to the sight of the houses, and made signes for boats to convey us into the Haven; which immediately with great joy came out, and guided us one by one between those Rockes, which make that Port as dangerous as any I have discovered in all my travailes both upon the North and South sea. Our Waits plaied most pleasantly, our Ordnance saluted both Towne and Fort over against it, our hearts and countenances reciprocally rejoyced; wee cast our Anchors, which yet were not enough to secure our ships in that most dangerous Haven, but further with Cable ropes we secured them to Iron rings, which for that purpose are fastned into the Wall of the Fort, for feare of the strong and boisterous Northerne winds. And thus welcoming one another to a new world, many boates waiting for us, we presently went with joy to set footing in _America_.

CHAP. VIII.

_Of our Landing at_ Vera Crux, _otherwise St._ John de Ulhua, _and of our entertainment there._

Upon the 12 day of _September_, we happily arrived in _America_ in that famous Towne, called _St. John de Ulhua_, otherwise _Vera Crux_; famous for that it was the first beginning of the famous conquest of that valiant and ever renowned Conqueror _Hernando Cortez_. Here first was that noble and generous resolution, that never heard of policy, to sinke the ships, which had brought the first _Spaniards_ to that Continent, greater then any of the other three parts of the world, to the intent that they might thinke of nothing but such a conquest as after followed, being destitute of the helpe of their ships, and without hopes evermore to returne to _Cuba, Yucatan_, or any of those parts from whence they had come. Here it was, that the first five hundred _Spaniards_ strengthned themselves against millions of enemies, and against the biggest fourth part of all the world. Here were the first Magistrates, Judges, Aldermen, Officers of Justice named. The proper name of the Towne is _S. John de Ulhua_, otherwise called _Vera Crux_, from the old Harbour and Haven of _Vera Crux_, six leagues from this, and so called for that upon good Friday it was first discovered. But the old _Vera Crux_ proving too dangerous an Harbour for ships, by reason of the violence of the Northern winds; it was utterly forsaken by the _Spaniards_, who removed to _St. John de Ulhua_, where their ships found the first safe road by reason of a Rocke, which is a strong defence against the winds. And because the memory of the worke of that good Friday should never be forgotten; to _S. John de Ulhua_ they have added the name also of _Vera Crux_, taken from that first Haven which was discovered upon good Friday, _Anno_ 1519.

As soone as we came to shore, wee found very solemne preparations for entertainment, all the Towne being resorted to the Sea side, all the Preists and Canons of the Cathedrall Church, all the religious Orders of the severall Convents (which are there Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, and Jesuites) being in a readinesse with their Crosses borne before them, to guide the new Viceroy of _Mexico_, in procession to the chiefe Cathedrall Church. The Fryers and Jesuites were quicker in going to land then the great _Don_ the Marquesse _de Serralvo_ and his Lady. Some of them kissed the ground as holy in their opinion, for the Conversion of those _Indians_ to Christianity, who before had worshipped Idols, and sacrificed to Devils; others kneeled upon their knees making short prayers, some to the Virgin _Mary_, others to such Saints as they best affected; and so betooke themselves to the places and stations of those of their profession. In the mean time all the Cannon playing both from ships and Castle, landed the Viceroy and his Lady and all his Traine, acccompanyed with _Don Martin de Carrillo_ the Visiter generall for the strife between the Count of _Gelves_ the last Viceroy, & the Archbishop of _Mexico_. The great Don and his Lady being placed under a Canope of state, began the _Te Deum_ to be sung with much variety of musicall instruments, all marching in procession to the Cathedrall, where with many lights of burning lampes, torches, & Wax candles, was to the view of all set upon the high Altar their God of bread; to whom all knees were bowed; a prayer of thanks-giving sung, holy water by a Preist sprinkled upon all the people, and lastly a Masse with three Preists solemnly celebrated. This being ended the Viceroy was attended on by the Chief High Justice, named _Alcalde_ Major by the Officers of the Town, some Judges sent from _Mexico_ to that purpose, and all the Souldiers of the Ships and Town unto his lodging; The Fryers likewise in Procession with their Crosse before them were conducted to their severall Cloisters. Fryer _Calvo_ presented his Dominicans to the Prior of the Cloister of St. _Dominicke_, who entertained us very lovingly with some sweet Meates, and everyone with a Cup of the _Indian_ drink called _Chocolatte_, whereof I shall speake hereafter. This refreshment being ended, wee proceeded to a better, which was a most stately Dinner both of Fish and Flesh; no Fowles were spared, many Capons, Turky Cocks, and Hens were prodigally lavished, to shew us the abundance and plenty of Provision of that Country. The Prior of this Cloister was no stayed, ancient, grey-headed man, such as usually are made Superiours to govern young and wanton Fryers; but hee was a Gallant and Amorous young Sparke, who (as wee were there informed) had obtained from his Superiour the Provinciall the Government of that Convent with a Bribe of a thousand Duckats. After dinner hee had some of us to his Chamber, where wee observed his lightnesse and little savour of Religion or Mortification in him; We thought to have found in his Chamber some stately Library, which might tel us of Learning and love of Study; but we found not above a dozen old Bookes, standing in a corner covered with dust and Cobwebs, as if they were ashamed that the Treasure that lay hid in them, should be so much forgotten, and undervalued, and the Guitarra (the _Spanish_ Lute) preferred and set above them. His Chamber was richly dressed and hung with many pictures, and with hangings, some made with Cotten Wooll, others with various coloured feathers of _Mechoacan_, his Tables covered with Carpets of Silk; his Cubboards adorned with severall sorts of _China_ Cups and Dishes, stored within with severall dainties of sweet Meates and Conserves.

This sight seemed to the zealous Fryers of our Mission most vaine, and unbeseeming a poore and mendicant Fryer; to the others, whose end in comming from _Spain_ to those parts was Liberty, and loosnesse, and covetousnesse of riches, this sight was pleasing and gave them great incouragement to enter further into that Country, where soone a Mendicant _Lazarus_ might become a proud and wealthy _Dives_. The discourse of the young and light headed Prior was nothing but vaine boasting of himself, of his birth, his parts, his favour with the chiefe Superior or Provinciall, the love which the best Ladies, the richest Merchants Wives of the Towne bare unto him, of his cleere and excellent voice, and great dexterity in Musick, whereof he presently gave us a taste, tuning his _Guitarra_ and singing to us some verses (as hee said, of his owne composing) some lovely _Amaryllis_, adding scandall to scandall, loosenesse to liberty, which it grieved some of us to see in a Superiour who should have taught with words, and in his life and Conversation examples of Repentance and Mortification. No sooner were our senses of hearing delighted well with Musick, our Sight with the objects of Cotten-Wool, Silke and Feather workes, but presently our Prior caused to be brought forth of all his store of dainties, such variety as might likewise relish well and delight our sense of tasting. Thus as wee were truely transported from _Europe_ to _America_, so the World seemed truely to bee altered, our senses changed from what they were the night & day before when we heard the hideous noise of the Mariners hoising up Sailes, when wee saw the deep and monsters of it, when we tasted the stinking water, when we smelt the Tarre and Pitch; but here wee heard a quivering and trembling voice and instrument well tuned, wee beheld wealth and riches, wee tasted what was sweet, and in the Sweet-meates smelt the Muske and Civit, wherewith that Epicurean Prior had seasoned his Conserves. Here wee broke up our discourse and pastimes, desirous to walke abroad and take a view of the Towne, having no more time then that, and the next day to stay in it. Wee compassed it round about that afternoone; and found the situation of it to bee sandy, except on the South-West side, where it is Moorish ground, and full of standing Bogs, which with the great heates that are there, cause it to bee a very unhealthy place; The number of Inhabitants may bee three thousand, and amongst them some very rich Merchants, some worth two hundred, some three hundred, and some foure hundred thousand Duckats. Of the buildings little we observed, for they are all, both Houses, Churches, and Cloisters built with Boards and Timber, the Walls of the richest mans house being made but of boards, which with the impetuous Winds from the North hath bin cause that many times the town hath bin for the most part of it burnt down to the ground. The great Trading from _Mexico_, & by _Mexico_ from the _East-India's_, from _Spain_, from _Cuba, Sto. Domingo, Jucatan, Portabello_, and by _Portabello_ from _Peru_, from _Cartagena_ and all the Islands lying upon the North Sea, and by the River _Alvarado_ going up to _Zapotecas, St. Ildefonso_, and towards _Guaxaca_, and by the River _Grijalva_, running up to _Tabasco, Los Zoques_ and _Chiapa de Indios_, maketh this little Town very rich, and to abound with all the Commodities of the Continent Land, and of all the _East_ and _West-India's_ Treasures. The unhealthinesse of the place is the reason of the paucity of Inhabitants, and the paucity of them, together with the rich Trading and commerce, the reasons that the Merchants therein are extraordinary rich; who yet might have been farre richer, had not the Town been so often fired, and they in the fire had great losses. All the strength of this Towne is first the hard and dangerous entrance into the Haven; and secondly, a rock which lyeth before the Town lesse then a Musket shot off; upon which is built a Castle, and in the Castle a slight Garrison of Souldiers. In the Town there is neither Fort, nor Castle, nor scarce any people of warlike mindes. The Rocke and Castle are as a Wall, defence, and inclosure to the Haven, which otherwise lyeth wide open to the Ocean, and to the Northern Winds. No Ship dares cast anchor within the Haven, but onely under the Rock and Castle, and yet not sure enough so with Anchors, except with Cables also they be bound and fastened to Rings of Iron for that purpose to the side of the Rock; from whence sometimes it hath happened that Ships floating with the Stream too much on one side the Rocke have been driven off and cast upon the other Rockes or out to the Ocean, the Cables of their Anchors, and those wherewith they have beene fastned to the Castle being broken with the force of the Winds. This happened to one of our Ships the first night after we landed; who were happy that we were not then at Sea; for there arose such a storme and Tempest from the North, that it quite broke the Cables of one Ship and drove it out to the maine Sea, and wee thought it would have blowne and droven us out of our beds after it, for the slight boarded houses did so totter & shake, that we expected every houre when they would fal upon our heads. We had that first night enough of St. _John de Ulhua_, and little rest, though feasted as well at Supper as at Dinner by our vaine boasting Prior, who before wee went to bed, had caused all our feet to bee washed, that now in easier beds then for above two moneths together the strait and narrow Cabins of the Ship had allowed us, our sleep might be more quiet, and more nourishing to our bodies; but the whistling Winds and tottering Chambers, which made our Beds uneasie Cradles to us, caused us to flie from our rest at midnight, and with our bare (though washed) feet to seeke the dirty Yard for safer shelter. In the morning the Fryers of the Cloister who were acquainted with those winds and storms, laughed at our fearefulnesse, assuring us, that they never slept better then when their Beds were rocked with such like blasts. But that nights affrightment made us weary already of our good and kind entertainment; wee desired to remove from the Sea side; which our Superiour _Calvo_ yeelded to, not for our feare sake so much, as for his feare, lest with eating too much of the fruits of that Countrey, and drinking after them too greedily of the water (which causeth dangerous Fluxes, and hasteneth death to those that newly come from _Spain_ to those parts) wee should fall sick, and die there, as hundreds did after our departure for want of temperance in the use of those fruits, which before they had never seen, or eaten. Thirty Mules were ready for us, which had bin brought a purpose from _Mexico_, and had waited for us in St. _John de Ulhua_ six days before ever the Fleet arrived. _Calvo_ that day busied himselfe a Ship board in sending to shore our Chests, and such Provision as had been left of Wines, and Bisket, Gammons of Bacon, and salted Beefe, whereof there was some store, besides a dozen Hens and three Sheep, which was much wondred at, that so much should be left after so long a voiage. In the mean time we visited our friends and tooke our leaves of them in the forenoone; and after Dinner seats were prepared for us in the Cathedrall Church to sit and see a Comedy acted, which had beene on purpose studied and prepared by the Town for the entertainment of the new Viceroy of _Mexico_. Thus two daies onely we abode in St. _John de Ulhua_, and so departed.

CHAP. IX.

_Of our journey from St. _John de Ulhua _to_ Mexico; _and of the most remarkeable Townes and Villages in the way._

Upon the 14 day of _September_ we left the Town and Port of _S. John de Ulhua_, entring into the rode to _Mexico_, which we found the first three or four leagues to bee very sandy, as wide and open as is our rode from _London_ to _S. Albans_. The first _Indians_ we met with, was at the old _Vera Crux_, a Towne seated by the sea side, which the _Spaniards_ that first conquered that countrey thought to have made their chief Harbour: but afterwards by reason of the small shelter they found in it for their ships against the North winds, they left it, and removed to _S. John de Ulhua_. Here we began to discover the power of the Preists and Fryers over the poore _Indians_, and their subjection and obedience unto them. The Prior of _S. John de Ulhua_ had writ a letter unto them the day before of our passing that way, charging them to meet us in the way, and to welcome us into those parts; which was by the poor _Indians_ gallantly performed; for two miles before we came to the Towne, there met us on Horse-back some twenty of the chiefe of the Towne, presenting unto every one of us a nosegay of flowers; who rid before us a bow shot, till we met with more company on foot, to wit, the Trumpeters, the Waits; (who sounded pleasantly all the way before us) the Officers of the Church, such as here we call Church-wardens, though more in number, according to the many sodalities or confraternities of Saints whom they serve, these likewise presented to each of us a nosegay; next met us the singing men and boyes, all the Quiristers, who softly and leisurely walked before us singing, _Te Deum laudamus_, till we came to the midst of the Towne, where were two great Elme trees, the chiefe Market place; there was set up one long arbour with green bowes, and a table ready furnished with boxes of conserves, and other sweet meates, and diet-bread, to prepare our stomacks for a cup of _Chocolatte_, which while it was seasoning with the hot water and Sugar, the chiefe _Indians_ and Officers of the Towne made a speech unto us, having first kneeled downe and kissed our hands one by one; they welcomed us into their Countrey, calling us the Apostles of Jesus Christ, thanked us for that we had left our own Countrey, our friends, our fathers and mothers for to save their soules; they told us they honoured us as Gods upon earth; and many such complements they used till our _Chocolatte_ was brought. We refreshed ourselves for the space of one hour, and gave hearty thanks to the _Indians_ for their kind respects unto us, assuring them that nothing was more deare unto us in this world then their souls, which that we might save, wee regarded not sea, nor land dangers, nor the unhumane cruelties of barbarous and savage _Indians_, (who as yet had no knowledge of the true God) no nor our owne lives.