Chapter I: shall faithfully commend unto the Presse (9)

And thus concluding without naming any person, I went downe out of the pulpit, and caused the Idol to be brought after me, and sending for an axe, and for two or three great pans of coales, I commanded him to be hewen in very small peeces, and to be cast in the fire and burned before all the people in the midst of the Church. The _Spaniards_ cried out joyfully _Victor Victor_, and others repeated, _Gloria à nostro Dios_, Glory to our God, the Idolaters held their peace and spake not then a word. But afterwards they acted most spightfully against me, and conspired day and night to get me at some advantage, and to kill me. I writ to the President of _Guatemala_ informing him of what I had done; and to the Bishop (as an Inquisitor to whom such cases of idolatry did belong) to be informed from him of what course I should take with the _Indians_ who were but in part yet discovered unto me, and those onely by the relation of one _Indian_. From both I received great thanks for my paines in searching the mountaine, and finding out the Idol, and for my zeal in burning of it. And as touching the _Indian_ Idolaters their counsell unto me was, that I should further enquire after the rest and discover as many as I could, and indeavour to convert them to the knowledge of the true God by faire and sweet meanes, shewing pity unto them for their great blindnesse, and promising them upon their repentance pardon from the Inquisition, which considering them to be but new plants useth not such rigour with them, which it useth with _Spaniards_ if they fall into such horrible sins. This advise I followed, and sent privately for the _Fuentes_ to my chamber, and told them how mercifull the Inquisition was unto them, expecting their conversion and amendment. They seemed somewhat stubborne and angry for that I had burned that God, whom not only they, but many others in the Towne, and also in the Towne of Saint _John Sacatepeques_ did worship. I used reasons to perswade them no honour was due unto it, as to a God. But one of them boldly replyed, that they knew that it was a peece of wood and of it selfe could not speake, but seeing it had spoken (as they were all witnesses) this was a miracle whereby they ought to be guided, and they did verily beleeve that God was in that piece of wood, which since the speech made by it was more then ordinary wood, having God himselfe in it, and therefore deserved more offerings and adoration then those Saints in the Church, who did never speake unto the people. I told them that the Devill rather had framed that speech (if any they had heard) for to deceive their souls and lead them to hell; which they might easily perceive from the Doctrin which I was informed he had preached against Christ the only begotten son of God, whom the Father loveth and in whom he is well pleased, and against whom he certainly would not speake in that idol. Another answered boldly, our forefathers never knew what Christ was, until the _Spaniards_ came unto that Countrey, but they knew there were Gods, & did worship them, and did sacrifice unto them; and for ought they knew this God of theirs belonged in old times unto their forefathers. Why then, said I unto them, he was a weake God who by my hands hath been burned? I perceived that at that time there was no reasoning with them, for they were stubborn and captious, and so I dismissed them. Had not God most graciously protected me against these my enemies, I had certainly been murthered by them; for a moneth after the burning of the idol, when I thought all had been forgotten, and that the Idolaters were quiet, then they began to act their spight and malice, which first I discovered by a noise which once at midnight I heard of people about my house, and at my chamber doore; to whom I called out from my bed not daring to open, but could have no answer from them, I perceived they would have come in by force, for they pushed hard at the doore. Whereupon I tooke suddainly the sheets from off my bed, tying them with a strong knot together, and with another to a bar of the window, making my selfe ready to fall down by them to the ground, and so to flie in the dark night, if they had used violence to come in. The sheets being thus prepared, and they still at the doore thrusting without any word from them, I thought by calling and crying out aloud I might affright them away. Wherefore with a shrill voice I called first to my servants, who were but boyes, and lay at the further end of a long gallery, then I cryed out to the neighbouring houses to come and assist me against theeves. The servants had heard the noise and were awake, who presently at my call came out; and with their coming my enemies ran down the staires, and were heard no more that night. But I perceiving which way their spight and malice was bent, thought fit to be no more alone in the night, with boyes only in so great a house as was that of _Mixco_; whereupon the next day I sent for my trusty friend _Miguel Dalva_ who was able to fight alone with any halfe dozen of _Indians_, wishing him to bring with him what weapons he could get for my defence. I kept him with me a fortnight; and the next Sabbath I gave warning in the Church, that whosoever came in the night to my house to affright me, or to doe me any other mischiefe should looke to him selfe, for that I had weapons both offensive and defensive. Though for a while I heard no more of them, yet they desisted not altogether from their evill and malicious intents; for, knowing that _Miguel Dalva_ did not lie in the same chamber with me, a fortnight after (I being till about midnight with my candle studying) they came up the staires so softly that I heard them not; but the _Black-more_ being awake it seems perceived that they were coming up, and softly arose up from a long table where he lay upon a Mat, and tooke in his hand a couple of brick-bats of many which lay under the table for a worke which I had in hand, and as he opened the dore made a little noise, which was to them an item to flie down the staires, and to run (as they thought) for their lives. The _Black-more_ did also run after them, and finding they had got too much advantage of him, and not knowing which way they might take, sent after them with a fury his two brick-bats, wherewith he supposed he did hit one of them, for the next day walking about the Towne he met with one of the _Fuentes_ having a cap on his head, and he inquired of some _Indians_ what he ailed, and he understood by them that his head was broke, but how they knew not. They perceiving that I was thus guarded by _Miguel Dalva_, desisted from that time from coming any more in the night unto my house, but yet desisted not from their spight and malice and from acting mischiefe against me. For a month after when I thought that all had been forgotten, and they seemed outwardly to be kind and curteous, there came a messenger to me from the oldest of them, named _Pablo de Fuentes_, to tel me that he was very sick, and like to die, and desired me to goe to comfort and instruct him in the truth, for that he truely desired to be converted. I conceived very great joy at this newes, and doubted not of the truth and certainty of it, and prayed to God to direct me in the conversion of that soul; and so with haste and good zeal, I went unto his house, where soon my joy and comfort was turned into bitternesse; for when I came to the dore of his house, and was with one step entred, I found all the brothers of _Pablo Fuentes_, and some others who were suspected to be Idolaters, sitting round the room; and missing _Pablo_, I withdrew my foot a little, and asked them where he was, mistrusting somewhat to see them there all gathered together; but when I perceived that they stood not up, nor answered me a word, nor so much as tooke off their hats to me, then I began to fear indeed, and to suspect some treachery; and so I turned back resolving to goe home again. But no sooner was I turned, but behold _Pablo Fuentes_ (who by his message had feigned both sicknesse and conversion) came from behind his house with a cudgell in his hand, lifting it up to strike at me. Had I not catched hold of his stick with both my hands, and prevented the intended blow, certainly he had struck me down. But whilst he and I were striving for the stick who should be Master of it, the rest of the _Indians_ who were sitting in the house, came out into the yard (which being a publick place was more comfort to me then if they had compassed me about within the house) and beset me round, some pulling mee one way, some another, tearing my clothes in two or three places, another to make me let goe my hand from the stick with a knife run me into the hand (which to this day a small scar doth witnesse) and certainly had we not been in a publike yard, that party would also have run his knife into my sides; another seeing I would not let goe the stick, tooke hold of it with _Pablo_ and both together thrust it against my mouth, and with such strength that they broke some of my teeth, and filled my mouth with goar blood, with which blow I fell, but soone recovered my selfe and arose, they laughing at me, but not daring to doe me any more harme for feare they should be seen, as God would have seen what already they had done; for a Mulatta slave to a _Spaniard_ in the valley, at that very time when I was down and rising passed by, and hearing me cry out for help to the neighbours (who lived somewhat far off that might helpe and succour me, for all the houses thereabouts were of the brothers the _Fuentes_) came into the yard, and seeing me all in blood thought I had been mortally wounded, and calling them murtherers ran along the street crying murther, murther in _Pablo Fuentes_ his yard, till she came to the Market place and Town-house, where she found the Maiors and Jurats sitting, & a couple of _Spaniards_, who when they heard of my danger, with drawn swords came presently running with all the officers of Justice to the yard of _Pablo Fuentes_ to aid and assist me; but in the mean while the Idolaters perceiving the outcry of the Mulatta, began to fall away and to hide themselves; _Pablo Fuentes_ going to shut up his house also to absent himselfe, I held him hard to it, striving with him that he might not escape away till some help came unto me. The _Spaniards_ when they came and saw me all in a blood, made furiously to _Pablo Fuentes_ with their naked swords, whom I stopped desiring them not to hurt him, lest what harme they did unto him should be imputed unto me. I wished the Justice not to feare him though he were a rich _Indian_, and as they would answer before the President of _Guatemala_ to lay hold of him, and to carry him to prison, which they presently performed. I made the _Spaniards_ and the Mulatta to witnesse under writing by way of information what they had seen, what blood about my clothes, what wound in my hand, what blow in my mouth they had found, and sent with speed to the President of _Guatemala_ this their information. The businesse was soon noised about the valley, whereupon most of the _Spaniards_ came to offer their help and aid unto me; _Miguel Dalva_ also chancing to be neer at a _Spaniards_ house in the same valley came with the rest, who would have done that night some mischief among the _Indians_ if I had not prevented them. I desired them to depart and goe home to their houses, telling them I feared nothing, and that _Miguel Dalva_ his company would be guard enough unto me. But they would by no meanes yeeld unto this, saying that night might prove more dangerous unto me then I imagined, and that I needed a stronger guard then of one man alone, for they conceived that the Idolaters knowing what already they had done, and fearing what grievous punishment might be inflicted upon them from the President of _Guatemala_, seeing themselves lost and undone men might desperately that night rescue their brother out of prison, and attempt some mischiefe against me, and so flie away. Which I could not be brought to fear, or to beleeve any such thing of their cowardly spirits, nor that they would flie away for that they had houses and land there in and about the Towne, yet I was willing for one night to yeeld to have a stronger guard of _Spaniards_ then at other times I had had with the Blackmore _Miguel Dalva_ alone. After supper they kept watch about my house till such time as they perceived all was still, and the _Indians_ a bed, and then they set a watch about the prison that _Pablo Fuentes_ might not be taken out. And after this (pretending that they were in danger as wel as I being but about a dozen, if the Towne should all rise and mutiny by the suggestion of the Idolaters, who most of them were rich and powerfull with the rest, which yet I feared not) they would needs goe and raise up the two Alcaldes or Maiors alone, with two more petty officers to make search about the Town for the rest of the _Fuentes_ and other known Idolaters, that being found they might secure them in the prison to appear at _Guatemala_, and prevented from doing any mischief either that night, or at any other time. With this stir which they made, and their care of mee, they suffered me not to take any rest that night; but went and called up the Alcaldes and two officers and brought them to my house, desiring me to signifie unto them, how fit and necessary it was to search for the rest of the _Indians_. The poore Alcaldes trembled to see so many _Spaniards_ at that time in my house with naked swords, and durst not but doe what they thought best to be done, and so from my house about midnight they walked about the Towne, searching such houses as they most suspected might conceale any of the _Fuentes_, or of the rest that had been that day in the rebellion and mutiny against mee. They could find none at home, till at last comming to the house of one _Lorenzo Fuentes_, one of the brothers, they found all that had been in the conspiracy against mee, gathered together drinking and quaffing. The house being beset there was no flying nor escaping, and seeing the _Spaniards_ naked swords, they durst not rebell, who doubtlesse (as wee were afterwards informed) would have made a great stirre in the Town that night, and were met together to rescue _Pablo_ their brother, and to doe mee some mischief and flye, not knowing that I was so strongly manned and guarded by the _Spaniards_. There were ten of them, and were presently without any noise in the Town carryed to the Prison, and there shut up, and guarded by the _Spaniards_.

In the morning the President of _Guatemala_ (who then was _Don Juan de Guzman_, a Religious Governour) taking into his consideration what the day before I had writ unto him, and judging my danger to bee great, sent a _Spanish_ Alguazile, or Officer of Justice with a very large Commission to bring Prisoners to the City all those _Indians_ who the day before had been in rebellion against mee, and in case they could not bee found, then to seize upon what goods soever of theirs could be found in _Mixco_. But with the diligence of the _Spaniards_ the night before they were all in a readinesse for him, and paying the Alguazile first his charges (which hee demanded as hee listed) and bearing the charges of _Miguel Dalva_, and two or three more _Spaniards_, who were commanded in the Kings Name to bee aiding and assisting the Officer for the safer carrying them to _Guatemala_, they were horsed and had away that day to the President, who committed them close Prisoners, and afterwards commanded them to be whipped about the streets, banished two of them from _Mixco_ to the Golf of St. _Thomas de Castilia_, and would have banished them all, had they not humbled themselves, and desired mee to intercede for them, promising to amend their lives, and to make mee great satisfaction, if they might return again to their Town, and that if ever more they did stirre against mee, they would yeeld to be hanged and to lose al their goods. With this the President (fining them yet to pay twenty Crowns a peece to the Church to be imployed in what I should think fittest) sent them back; who, as they had promised, came unto mee, and humbled themselves before mee with much weeping, with many expressions, shewing their sorrow from their hearts for what they had done, casting all upon the Devill, whom they confessed had been great with them in tempting them, whom also now they did abjure and renounce, promising to live as good Christians, and never more to worship any God but one. I was very much taken with their deepe sorrow expressed with many tears, and indeavoured to instruct them in the true knowledge of Christ, whom now I found they were very willing to imbrace. I lived not very long after in that Towne; but for the time I did continue in it, I found a great change and alteration in their lives, which truly made mee apt to judge that their repentance was unfained. And these former particulars of a few _Indians_ of those two Towns, I have not here inserted to bring an aspersion upon all that Nation, (which I doe very much affect, and would willingly spend the best drops of blood in my veines to doe them good, and to save their soules) but to cause rather pity and commiseration towards them, who after so many yeers preaching have been made as yet but formall and outward Christians, and by the many Saints of wood, which they have been taught to worship by the Preists, have rather been inclined to the superstition and Idolatry of their Forefathers, and to trust to living Creatures, and bow to inanimate stocks and stones, which they daily see performed publickly in their Churches. Certainly they are of a good and flexible nature, and (were those Idols of Saints statues removed from their eyes) might bee brought easily to worship one onely God; and whereas they so willingly lavish out their small meanes and what they labour for, in offerings to the Preists and to their Saints, and in maintaining Lazy singing Lubbars, they without doubt would bee free enough to true Ministers of Gods Word, who should venture their lives to beat down those false Gods, and set up Jesus Christ, and him that sent him into the World to save such as truly beleeve in him.

The yeere that this stirre happened in _Mixco_, I received from _Rome_ from the Generall of the Dominicans Order, License to come home to _England_; at which I rejoyced much, for now I was even weary with living among the _Indians_, & grieved to see the little fruit I reaped amongst them, and that for feare of the Inquisition I durst not preach a new Gospell unto them, which might make them true, reall, and inward Christians; and lastly, for that I perceived that _Antonio Mendez de Satomayor_ (who was Lord of the Towne of _Mixco_) did stomack me for having caused two of his Towne to bee banished, and publikely affronted the _Fuentes_ for their Idolatry, which hee thought was a great aspersion laid upon his _Indians_.

All which well considered I writ unto the Provinciall (who was then in _Chiapa_) of my desire to returne home to mine owne Countrey, for the which I had a licence sent unto me from _Rome_. But he having heard of what good I had done in the Town of _Mixco_, in reducing some Idolaters, burning their idol, and venturing my life in so good a cause; and also for the perfect knowledge which now I had of the _Poconchi_ tongue, would by no meanes yeeld that I should go; but with fair and flattering words incouraged me to stay, where he doubted not, but I did, and I might yet doe God much more good service; and that he might the better worke upon me, he sent me a Patent of Vicar of the Towne and Cloister of _Amatitlan_, where at the present there was a new Cloister a building to separate all that valley from the Cloister of _Guatemala_. He desired me to accept of that small preferment, not doubting but that I speaking so well the _Indian_ language might prevaile much in that place, and better then another, to further the building of that new Cloister; which worke would be a good step for him to advance me afterwards to some better preferment. Although I regarded neither that present Superiority, nor any better honour which might afterwards ensue unto me, I thought the time which God had appointed for my returning to _England_ was not yet come; for that if the Provinciall, and with him the President of _Guatemala_ (for so much I conjectured out of the Provincialls letter) should both oppose and hinder my departure from that Countrey, it would be very hard for me to take my journey any way, and not be discovered and brought back. Whereupon I resolved to stay the Provincialls coming to _Guatemala_, and there to confer with him face to face, and to shew him some reasons that moved me to leave that Countrey, and to seek againe mine owne wherein I was borne. So for the present I accepted of the Towne of _Amatitlan_, where I had more occasions of getting mony than in the other two, where I had lived five full yeers; for albeit that Towne alone was bigger then both _Mixco_ and _Pinola_ together, and the Church fuller of Saints pictures and statues, and very many Confraternities and Sodalities belonged unto it; besides this from without the Towne I had great comings in from the Ingenio of Sugar, which I related before stood close unto that Towne, from whence I had dayly offerings from the _Black-mores_ and _Spaniards_ that lived in it; and besides this I had under my charge another lesser Towne called St. _Christoval de Amatitlan_, standing two leagues from great _Amatitlan_. This Town of St. _Christoval_, or _St. Christopher_, is called properly in that language, _Palinha, ha,_ signifying water, and _Pali_, to stand upright, and is compounded of two words which express water standing upright; for the Towne standeth on the back side of the Vulcan of water, which looketh over _Guatemala_, and on this side sendeth forth many fountaines, but especially spouteth forth from a high rock a stream of water, which as it falleth from high with a great noise and down-fall, the rocke standing upright over the bottome where it falleth, and causeth a most pleasant stream by the Townes side, it hath moved the _Indians_ to call their Towne, _Palinha_, from the high and upright standing rock, from whence the water falleth. In this Towne there are many rich _Indians_, who trade in the coast of the South sea; the Towne is as an harbour shadowed with many fruitfull trees; but the chief fruit here is the Pinna, which groweth in every _Indians_ yard, and with the neernesse of the Ingenio of Sugar, are by the _Spaniards_ thereabouts much made up in Preserves; some whole, some in slices, which is the daintiest and most luscious Preserve that I ever did eat in that Countrey. The _Indians_ of this Towne get much by boards of Cedar, which they cut out of many Cedar-trees, which grow on that side of the Vulcan, which they sell to _Guatemala_ and all about the Countrey for new buildings.

Between great _Amatitlan_ and this Town the way is plain, and lieth under a Vulcan of fire, which formerly was wont to smoak as much as that of _Guatemala_, but having formerly burst out at the top, and there opened a great mouth, & cast down to the bottome mighty stones (which to this day are to be seen) it hath not since been any waies troublesome unto the Countrey. In this way there was in my time a new Trapiche of Sugar erecting up by one _John Baptista_ of _Guatemala_, which was thought would prove very usefull, and profitable unto the foresaid City. I had yet for the time that I lived in _Amatitlan_ another very little village at my charge, called _Pampichi_ at the bottome of a high mountaine on the other side of the lake over against it, which was but a Chappell of ease unto great _Amatitlan_, unto which I went not above once in a quarter of a yeer, and that for pastime and recreation; for this village is well in that language a compound also of _Pam_, in, and _Pichi_, flowers, for that it standeth compassed about with flowers, which make it very pleasant, and the boats or Canoa's which doe constantly stand neer the doores of the houses, invites to much pleasure of fishing and rowing about the lake.

And thus whilst I lived in _Amatitlan_ I had the choice of three places wherein to recreate my selfe, and because the charge of many soules lay in my hands, I had one constantly to helpe me. The Towne of _Amatitlan_ was as the Court in respect of the rest, where nothing was wanting that might recreate the mind and satisfie the body with variety and change of sustenance, both for fish and flesh. Yet the great care that did lie upon me in the worke and building of the Cloister, made me very soone weary of living in that great and pleasant Towne; for sometimes I had thirty, sometimes twenty, sometimes fewer, and sometimes fourty worke-men to looke unto, and to pay wages to on Saturday nights, which I found wearied much my braine, and hindred my studies, and was besides a worke which I delighted not in, nor had any hopes ever to enjoy it. And therefore after the first yeer that I had been there I betooke my selfe unto the Provinciall, who was in _Guatemala_, and againe earnestly besought him to peruse the Licence which I had from _Rome_ to goe to _England_ mine owne Countrey for to preach there (for that was the chiefe ground of letting me goe home, as the Generall largely expressed) where I doubted not but I might doe God great service, and in Conscience I told him I thought I was bound to employ what parts God had bestowed upon me, rather upon my own Countreymen, then upon _Indians_ and strangers. The Provinciall replyed unto me that my Countrey men were Heretickes, and when I came amongst them they would hang me up. I told him, I hoped better things of them, and that I would not behave my selfe among them so as to deserve hanging, not daring to tell him what was in my heart concerning points of Religion. After a long discourse I found the Provinciall inexorable, and halfe angry, telling me that he and that whole Province had cast their eyes upon me, and honoured me, and were ready and willing to promote me further, and that I would shew my selfe very ungratefull unto them, if I should forsake them for my owne nation and people, whom I had not knowne from my young and tender age. I perceived there was no more to be said, and all would be in vaine, and so resolved to take my best opportunity, and with my Licence from _Rome_ to come away unknowne unto him. But for the present I humbly beseeched him to remove me from _Amatitlan_, for that I found my selfe unable to undergoe that great charge, and too weake for that strong worke, that was then building. With much adoe he would be brought to this, alleadging what an honour it was to be a Founder and builder of a new Cloister, in whose walls my very name would be engraven to posterity; all which I told him I regarded not, but estemed more of my health and a quiet mind, then of such preferments and vanities. Upon which at last he condescended to my request, and gave me order to goe to _Petapa_, and that the Vicar of _Petapa_ should goe to finish the worke of _Amatitlan_. In _Petapa_ I lived above a twelve moneth, with great ease, pleasure and content for all things worldly and outward; but within I had still a worme of Conscience, gnawing this gourd that shadowed and delighted me with worldly contentment. Here I grew more and more troubled concerning some points of Religion, dayly wishing with _David_, that I had the wings of a Dove, that I might flie from that place of dayly Idolatry into _England_, and be at rest. I resolved therefore to put on a good courage, and relie wholly upon my God, knowing that the journey was hard and dangerous, and might bring shame and trouble unto me, if I should be taken in the way flying and brought back to _Guatemala_; here I weighed the affliction and reproach which might ensue unto me, after so much honor, pleasure, and wealth which I had enjoyed for about twelve yeers in that Countrey; but in another balance of better consideration, I weighed the trouble of a wounded Conscience, and the spirituall joy and comfort that I might enjoy at home with the people of God, and so resolutely concluded upon that place of _Heb._ 11. 25, 26, 27. with _Moses_, to choose rather to suffer affliction with the people of God (who as _Paul_ well observeth, I _Thes._ 3. 3. are appointed thereunto; and again _Phil._ 1. 29. unto whom it is given in the behalfe of Christ, not onely to beleeve in him, but also to suffer for his sake) then to enjoy the pleasures of sinne for a season; esteeming the reproach of Christ greater riches then the treasures in _Egypt_. So for faith and a safe conscience I now purposed likewise with _Moses_ to forsake _Egypt_, not fearing the wrath of the President the Kings owne Deputy, nor of the Provinciall, and my best friends; but to indure all this (if I should be taken) as seeing him who is invisible. I thought this was a businesse not to be conferred with flesh and blood, lest the best friend knowing of it should betray me; yet on the other side, I thought it hard to flie alone without some friend for the first two or three daies journey; and besides having many things to sell away to make mony of, I thought I were better to imploy some trusty friend, then to doe all alone. I thought of none fitter then _Miguel Dalva_, whom by long experience I knew to be true and trusty, and that a small mony matter would content him; whom I sent for to _Pinola_, and charging him with secrecy, I told him I had a journey for my conscience sake to make to _Rome_ (I would not tell him that I intended _England_, lest the good old _Black-more_ should grieve thinking never more to see me, and for the love he bare me, and interest he had many times from me, he should by discovering my intent, seek to stop me) which I would have none to know of but himselfe, not doubting but to returne againe, as he knew many had taken the like journey, and returned within two yeers.

The _Black-more_ offered himselfe to goe with me, which I refused, telling him that the seas would be too hard for his old age to endure, and that as a _Black-more_ in foraine Countries he might be stopped and apprehended for a fugitive; which reason he liked well, and offered himselfe to goe with mee as farre as the sea side; for which I thanked him and employed to sell me away some Mules, Wheat, and Maiz which I had, and what else might well passe through his hands. As for many rich pictures which hung in my chamber, I thought the Towne of _Petapa_ would buy them for their Church, and propounded it unto the Governour, who willingly accepted of them. Most of my bookes, chests, cabinets, quilts, and many good peices of houshold-stuffe, by the paines and industry of _Miguel_ (whom I kept with me for the space of two moneths before I came away) I sold to _Guatemala_, reserving onely two Peraca's or leatherne chests, with some bookes and a quilt for my journey. When I had sold all that I intended, I found I had in _Spanish_ mony neer nine thousand peeces of eight, which I had got in twelve yeers that I lived in that Country. So much mony I thought would be too combersome for a long journey; whereupon I turned above four thousand of them into pearles and some pretious stones, which might make my carriage the lighter; the rest I laid up some in bags, some I sowed into my quilt, intending in the way to turne them into _Spanish_ Pistols. Thus the chiefe provision being made of mony, I tooke care for Chocolatte and some Conserves for the way, which were soon provided. Now because I considered that my flight the first week must be with speed, and that my chests could not post day and night as my selfe intended to doe; I thought of sending my carriage four dayes at least before me; and not daring to trust any _Indian_ of _Petapa_, I sent to _Mixco_ for one speciall _Indian_ friend whom I had there, who knew the way that I was to travaile very well; to whom I opened my mind, and offered what mony I knew would well content him, and at midnight sent him away with two Mules, one for himselfe, and another for my chests, wishing him to keep on travelling towards _St. Miguel_, or _Nicaragua_ till I overtooke him. I gave him the advantage of four daies and nights, and then resolutely with my good _Blackmore_ in my company leaving the key of my chamber in my doore, and nothing but old papers within, when all the _Indians_ where fast sleep, I bad adieu unto _Petapa_, and to the whole valley, and to all my friends throughout _America_.

CHAP. XXI.

_Shewing my journey from the Towne of_ Petapa, _into_ England; _and some chiefe passages in the way._

The chiefe thing which troubled me in my resolved purpose to come home, was the choice of the safest way; which made me utterly forsake the Gulfe (though the easiest way of all, and that sea neerest to the place where I lived) for that I knew I should meet there with many of my acquaintance, and the setting out of the ships was so uncertain, that before they departed, order might come from _Guatemala_ to stop me; if I should go by land through _Comayagua_ to _Truxillo_, and there wait for the ships, likewise I feared lest the Governour of that place by some item from the President of _Guatemala_ might examine me, and send me backe, and that the Masters of the ships might have charge given them not to receive me into their ships. If I should goe backe to _Mexico_ and _Vera Cruz_, then I called to mind, how I was troubled in that long journey, when I came first to _Chiapa_ in company of friends, and that now alone I should certainly be much put to it, for I would not carry _Miguel Dalva_ so far by land with me. Wherefore rejecting these three wayes, I chose the fourth, which was by _Nicaragua_ and the Lake of _Granada_; and therefore I deferred my journey till the week after _Christmas_, knowing that the time of the frigats setting out from that lake to the _Havana_ was commonly after the middle of _January_, or at _Candlemas_ at the furthest, whither I hoped to reach in very good time. Now that I might by no means be suspected to have taken this way; before I went I left by the hand of _Miguel Dalva_ a letter to a friend of his to be delivered to the Provinciall in _Guatemala_, foure dayes after my departure, wherein I kindly tooke my leave of him, desiring him not to blame me nor to seeke after me; and whereas I had a sufficient Licence from _Rome_, and could not get his, that I thought I might with a safe Conscience goe where I was born, leaving Linguists enough to supply my place amongst the _Indians_. And because he should not make enquiry after me by _Nicaragua_, I dated and subscribed my letter to him from the Towne of _St. Antonio Suchutepeques_, which was the way to _Mexico_ and quite contrary to _Nicaragua_.

The next day after _Twelfth_ day, being the seventh of _January_, 1637. at midnight I set out of _Petapa_ upon a lusty Mule (which afterwards in the way I sold for fourscore peeces of eight) with _Miguel Dalva_ alone; and the first part of the way being very hilly we could not goe so fast as our hearts would have posted; for it was breake of day before we could get to the top of the mountaine, which is called _Serro Redondo_, or the round hill; which is much mentioned in that Countrey, for the good pasture there which serveth for the Cattell and Sheep, when the valleys below are burnt and no grasing left for Beasts. This hill is also a great refuge to Travellers, for there they find good entertainment in a _Venta_, where wine and provision is sold, and is a great Lodge, for to lay up dry what carriages they bring; there is besides one of the best Estancia's or farmes of Cattell in the Countrey, where of Goats and Ewes milke is made the best cheese thereabouts. This round hill or mountaine is five leagues from _Petapa_, where I feared I might meet with some people of _Petapa_, and therefore the day now dawning I made haste by it, leaving in the lodge asleep many _Indians_, who attended on two _Spanish_ Requa's of Mules, which that day were to goe to _Petapa_; foure leagues further from this _Serro Redondo_ is a Towne of _Indians_ called _Los Esclavos_, or the Slaves, not that now they are more slaves then the rest of the _Indians_, but because in the old time of _Montezuma_ the Emperour, and the _Indian_ Kings that were under him, the people of this Towne were more slaves then any other, for from _Amatitlan_ (which is so called from _Amat_, which in the _Mexican_ tongue signifieth Letter, and _Itlan_ which signifieth Towne, for that it was the Towne of Letters as some say, for a rine of a tree, whereon they were wont formerly to write and expresse their minds, or because it was the place whither from all parts letters were sent to be carried about the Countrey, and to _Peru_) these _Indians_ of the Towne of _Esclavo's_ or slaves, were commanded as slaves to goe all about the Countrey with letters, or whatsoever else they should be charged with; and they were bound constantly to send every week so many of their Towne (as were appointed) unto _Amatitlan_, there to wait and attend the pleasure of that Towne for the conveying of letters, or any carriages to other parts.

This Towne of _los Esclavos_ standeth in a bottome by a river, over the which the _Spaniards_ have built a very strong stone Bridge to goe in and out of the Town, for otherwise with mules there is no passing by reason of the violent and rapid streame of the water, and many rocks in the River, from which the water falleth down with great force. From this Town (where wee onely stayed to drink a cup of Chocolatte and to bait our mules) wee went on that day to _Aguachapa_, being ten leagues further, and not farre from the South Sea, and the port called _De la Trinidad_; whither wee came towards Evening, having that day and part of the night travelled about threescore _English_ miles up hils, and upon stony wayes from the _Esclavo's_ unto this Town; which is much mentioned in that Country for two things. The one is for the earthen ware which is made there (as some think) exceeding that of _Mixco_. The other is for a place within a mile and a halfe from the Town, which the _Spaniards_ doe credibly report and beleeve to be a mouth of hell. For out of it there is constantly ascending a thick black smoak smelling of Brimstone, with some flashes now and then of fire; the earth from whence this smoak ariseth is not high, but low. None ever durst draw nigh to find out the truth and ground of it; for those that have attempted to doe it, have been stricken down to the ground and like to lose their lives. A friend of mine a Fryer (whom I thought verily I might beleeve) upon his oath affirmed unto me, that travelling that way with a Provinciall hee resolved to goe unto the place, and satisfie himselfe of the ground and cause of the strange talke which was every where about the Country concerning that smoke. He went within a quarter of a mile of it, and presently, hee said, he heard a hideous noise, which together with the stench of the fiery smoke and brimstone, struck him into such a fear that he was like to fall to the ground, and retiring himself back with all speed was taken with a burning Feaver, which was like to cost him his life. Others report that drawing neer unto it, they have heard great cries as it were of men and women in torment, noise of iron, of chaines, and the like, which (how simply I leave it to my Judicious Reader) maketh them beleeve that it is a mouth of hell. Of my knowledge I will say no more, but that I saw the smoke, and asked the _Indians_ what was the cause of it; and if ever they had been neer unto it? And they answered mee, that they could not imagine what might bee the cause of it, neither durst they draw nigh unto it; and that they had seen Travellers, attempting to goe neere it, and that they were all stricken either to the ground, or with some suddaine amazement, or Feaver. I told them that I would walke thither my self, and they desired mee that I would not, if I loved my life. It was not yet for all this report the feare of being so neer the _Spaniards_ hell (as they call it) that made me haste with speed out of that Town, but fear of some messenger that might come after mee to stop my journy. For at midnight I departed from thence, and went to breake my fast to a great Town called _Chalchuapan_, where the _Indians_ made very much of mee, being _Pocomanes_, who spake the _Poconchi_ or _Pocoman_ tongue which I had learned. They would willingly have had me to stay with them and preach unto them the next Sabbath, which I would have done, had not a better designe called upon mee to make haste.

Here I was troubled, how I should get through St. _Salvador_, which was a City of _Spaniards_, and wherein there was a Cloister of Dominicans, whom I feared most of all, because I was known by some of them. My resolution was therefore when I came neere unto the City, to turn out of my way to a _Spaniards_ Farm as if I had lost my way, and there to delay the time till Evening in drinking Chocolatte, discoursing, and baiting my mules well, that so I might travell all that night, and bee out of the reach of that City, and Fryers (who lived in _Indian_ Towns about it) the next morning, early. This City of St. _Salvador_ is poore, not much bigger then _Chiapa_, and is governed by a _Spanish_ Governour. It standeth forty leagues at least from _Guatemala_, and towards the North Sea side, is compassed with very high mountains, which are called Chuntales, where the _Indians_ are very poore. In the bottome where the City standeth there are some _Trabiches_ of Sugar, some Indigo made, but the chief Farmes are Estancia's of Cattell. Towards Evening I departed from that Farm where I had well refreshed my selfe and my Mule, and about eight of the clock I rid through the City not being known by any body. My purpose was to bee the next morning at a great River, called _Rio de Lempa_, some ten leagues from St. _Salvador_, for within two leagues of it there lived in an _Indian_ Town a Fryer belonging to the Cloister of St. _Salvador_ who knew mee very well. But such haste I made that before break of the day I passed through that Town, and before seven of the clock I was at the River, where I found my _Indian_ of _Mixco_ ready to passe over with my carriage, who that morning by three of the clock had set out of that Town two leagues off. I was not a little glad to have overtaken my Chests, wherein was most of my treasure. There I sate down a while by the River whilst my mules grazed, and my _Indian_ struck fire and made me Chocolatte. This River of _Lempa_ is held the broadest, and biggest in all the Jurisdiction belonging unto _Guatemala_; there are constantly two Ferry Boats to passe over the Travellers, and their Requa's of Mules. This River is privileged in this manner, that if a man commit any hainous crime or murther on this side of _Guatemala_, and _San Salvador_, or on the other side of St. _Miguel_, or _Nicaragua_, if hee can flie to get over this River, he is free as long as hee liveth on the other side, and no Justice on that side whither hee is escaped can question or trouble him for the murther committed. So likewise for Debts hee cannot bee arrested. Though I thanked God I neither fled for the one, or for the other, yet it was my comfort that I was now going over to a priviledged Country, where I hoped I should bee free and sure, and that if any one did come after mee, hee would goe no further then to the River of _Lempa_. My Blackmore did much laugh at this my conceipt, and warranted mee that all would doe well. Wee Ferried safely over the River; and from thence went in company with my _Indian_ to a little small Towne of _Indians_ two leagues off, where wee made the best dinner that we had done from the Towne of _Petapa_, and willingly gave rest to all our mules till foure of the clocke in the afternoone; at which time wee set forth to another small Town little above two leagues off, through a plain, sandy, and Champaigne Country. The next day wee had but ten leagues to travaile to a Town called St. _Miguel_, which belongeth unto _Spaniards_, and though it bee not a City, yet is as bigge almost as _San Salvador_, and hath a _Spanish_ Governour; in it there is one Cloister of Nuns, and another of Mercenarian Fryers, who welcomed mee unto their Cloister. For here I began to shew my face, and to think of selling away the Mule I rid on, being resolved from hence to goe by water or an Arm of the Sea, to a Town in _Nicaragua_ called _La Vieja_. I would here have dismissed my _Indian_, but hee was loth to leave me untill I got to _Granada_, where hee desired to see mee shipped. I refused not his kind offer, because I knew hee was trusty and had brought my Chests well thither, and knew well the way to _Granada_. So I sent him by land to _Realejo_, or to _La Vieja_, which stand very neere together and thirty leagues by land from St. _Miguel_, and my self stayed that day and till the next day at noon in that Town, where I sold the mule, I rid on, because I knew that from _Realejo_ to _Granada_ I could have of the _Indians_ a Mule for nothing for a dayes journey. My Blackmores mule I sent also by land with the _Indian_, and the next day went to the Gulfe, being three or foure miles from St. _Miguel_, where that afternoone I tooke Boat with many other passengers, and the next morning by eight in the morning was at _La Vieja_, which journey by land would have taken mee up neere three dayes. The next day my _Indian_ came at night, and wee went to _Realejo_, (as I have observed before) a Haven very weak and unfortified on the South Sea; where if I would have stayed one fortnight I might have taken shipping for _Panama_, to goe from thence to _Portabelo_, and there stay for the Galeons from _Spain_. But I considered that the Galeons would not be there till _June_ or _July_, and that so I should be at great charges in staying so long. But afterwards I wished I had accepted of that occasion, for I was at last forced to goe to _Panama_, and _Portabelo_. From hence to _Granada_ I observed nothing, but the plainnesse and pleasantnesse of the way, which with the fruits and fertility of all things may well make _Nicaragua_ the Paradise of _America_. Betweene _Realejo_ and _Granada_ standeth the City of _Leon_, neere unto a _Vulcan_ of fire, which formerly burst out at the top, and did much hurt unto all the Country about; but since that it hath ceased, and now letteth the Inhabitants live without feare. Sometimes it smokes a little, which sheweth that as yet there is within some sulphurous substance.

Here it was that a Mercenarian Fryer thought to have discovered some great treasure, which might inrich himselfe and all that Country, being fully perswaded that the metall that burned within that _Vulcan_ was Gold; whereupon hee caused a great Kettle to bee made, and hung at an iron chain to let it down from the top, thinking therewith to take up gold enough to make him Bishop and to inrich his poor kindred. But such was the power and strength of the fire within, that no sooner had hee let downe the Kettle, when it fell from the chain and from his hands being melted away.