Chapter I: shall faithfully commend unto the Presse (10)

This City of _Leon_ is very curiously built, for the chief delight of the Inhabitants consisteth in their houses, and in the pleasure of the Country adjoyning, and in the abundance of all things for the life of man, more then in any extraordinary riches, which there are not so much injoyed, as in other parts of _America_. They are contented with fine gardens, with variety of singing birds, and parrets, with plenty of fish and flesh, which is cheap, and with gay houses, and so lead a delicious, lazy and idle life; not aspiring much to trade and traffique, though they have neer unto them the Lake, which commonly every yeere sendeth forth some Frigats to _Havana_ by the North Sea, and _Realejo_ on the South Sea, which to them might bee very commodious for any dealing and rich Trading in _Peru_, or to _Mixco_, if their spirits would carry them so farre: The Gentlemen of this City are almost as vaine and phantasticall as are those of _Chiapa_. And especially from the pleasure of this City, is all that Province of _Nicaragua_, called by the _Spaniards Mahomets_ Paradise. From hence the way is plain and Levell to _Granada_, whither I got safely and joyfully, hoping that now I had no more journey to make by land, till I should land at _Dover_ in _England_, and from thence post up to _London_. Two dayes after I had arrived at this place and rested my selfe, and injoyed the pleasant prospect of the Lake, I began to think of dismissing my _Indian_ and Blackmore. But true and faithfull _Miguel Dalva_ would by no meanes leave mee, till he saw me shipped; and that I had no more need of him by land; Likewise the _Indian_ would willingly have stayed, but by no meanes I would permit him, for that I considered hee had a wife and children to looke to at home. Hee was as willing to return a foot, as to ride, because hee would have mee sell my mules, and make what mony I could of them; but I seeing the good nature of the _Indian_, would recompence his love with as much mony as might bee more beneficiall to him, then a tired Mule; which might have dyed in the way under him, and left him on foot; so I gave him money enough to bear his charges home, and to hire Mules at his one pleasure, and some to spare, when he came home. The _Indian_ with many teares falling from his eyes, saying, hee feared hee should never more see mee, tooke his leave of mee the third day after wee arrived at _Granada_. My Blackmore and I being left alone, first began to thinke of selling away the two Mules, which had brought thither the _Indian_, and my Chests; for which I got fourscore and ten peeces of eight after so long a journey, and thought they were well sold. I would have had _Miguel_ have sold away that whereon hee rid, (which was his own) and offered to buy him another that might better carry him back, but the loving and carefull Blackmore would not suffer mee to bee at such charges, considering the long journey which I was to make. After this, wee hearing that the frigats were not like to depart in a fortnight, thought of viewing well that stately and pleasant Towne a day or two, and then to betake our selves to some neer _Indian_ Town, where wee might bee hid, (lest by the great resort of Requa's of Mules, which at that time brought Indigo and Cochinill from _Guatemala_ to the Frigats, wee should bee discovered) and might now and then come to the Town to treat concerning my passing in one of the Frigats to the _Havana_ or to _Carthagena_. What in that Town wee observed was, two Cloisters of Mercenarian and Franciscan Fryers, and one of Nuns, very rich; and one Parish Church, which was as a Cathedrall, for the Bishop of _Leon_ did more constantly reside there then in the City. The houses are fairer then those of _Leon_, and the Town of more Inhabitants, among whom there are some few Merchants of very great wealth, and many of inferiour degree very well to passe, who trade with _Carthagena, Guatemala, San Salvador_, and _Comayagua_, and some by the South sea to _Peru_ and _Panama_. But at this time of the sending away the frigats, that Town is one of the wealthiest in all the North Tract of _America_; for the Merchants of _Guatemala_ fearing to send all their goods by the Gulfe of _Honduras_, for that they have been often taken by the _Hollanders_ between that and _Havana_, think it safer to send them by the frigats to _Carthagena_, which passage hath not been so much stopped by the _Hollanders_ as the other. So likewise many times the Kings treasure, and revenues (when there is any report of ships at sea, or about the Cape of _St. Anthony_) are this way by the Lake of _Granada_ passed to _Carthagena_. That yeer that I was there, before I betooke my selfe to an _Indian_ Towne, in one day there entred six Requa's (which were at least three hundred Mules) from _St. Salvador_ and _Comayagua_ onely, laden with nothing else but Indigo, Cochinil and Hides; and two dayes after from _Guatemala_ came in three more, the one laden with silver, which was the Kings tribute from that Countrey; the other with Sugar, and the other with Indigo. The former Requa's I feared not; but the latter made me keep close within my lodging, lest going abroad, I should be knowne by some of those that came from _Guatemala_; who after they had delivered what they brought, presently departed, and with their departure set mee at liberty, who for their sakes was a voluntary prisoner within mine owne lodging. But fearing lest more of these Requa's might come and affright mee, I went to a Towne out of the rode, a league from _Granada_, and took my pleasure up and downe the Countrey where I was much feasted by the Mercenarian Friers, who enjoy most of those Towns. Amongst these I heard much of the passage in the frigots to _Carthagena_, which did not a little dishearten and discourage me. For although, whilst they saile upon the Lake, they goe securely and without trouble, yet when they fall from the Lake to the river (which there they call _El Desaguadero_) to goe out to the Sea, _hic labor, hoc opus est_, here is nothing but trouble, which sometimes makes that short voyage to last two moneths; for such is the fall of the waters in many places amongst the rockes, that many times they are forced to unlade the frigots, and lade them again with helpe of Mules which are there kept for that purpose, by a few _Indians_ that live about the river, and have care of the Lodges made for to lay in the wares, whilest the frigots passe thorow those dangerous places to another Lodge, whither the wares are brought by Mules, and put againe into the frigots. Beside this trouble (which must needs be tedious to a passenger, to be thus stopped, who would willingly come soone to his journeys end) the abundance of gnats is such, which maketh him to take no joy in his voiage, and the heat in some places so intolerable, that many doe die before they get out to the sea. Though all this was terrible to me to hear, yet I comforted my selfe that my life was in the hands of the Lord, and that the frigots did commonly every yeer passe that way, and seldome any were lost. I went now and then to _Granada_ to bargaine for my passage, and to know when the frigots would for certaine set out, and to provide my selfe of some dainties and Chocolatte for my journey, having agreed with a Master of a frigot for my diet at his table. The time was appointed within foure or five dayes; but suddainly all was crossed with a strict command from _Guatemala_, that the frigots should not goe out that yeer, because the President and whole Court was informed for certaine that some _English_ or _Holland_ ships was abroad at sea, and lay about the mouth of the river or _Desaguadero_ waiting for the frigots of _Granada_, and that the said were sometimes lurking about the Islands of _St. John_, and _St. Catharine_ (which then was our _Providence_) which made all the Merchants of the Countrey to feare and sweat with a cold sweat, and the President to be carefull for the Kings revenues, lest the losse of them should be imputed to his wilfull negligence, in stopping the frigots, whilst he might, and had warning given. This was but sad newes unto me, who knew not for the present, which way to dispose of my selfe. I began to thinke of the ship that was at _Realejo_ ready to set out to _Panama_, thinking that would now be my best course, but enquiring after it, I was for certaine informed by some Merchants that it was newly gone. Then my eyes looked upon _Comayagua_ and _Truxillo_, and upon the ships of _Honduras_, but these were but vaine and troubled thoughts, arising from a perplexed heart, for the ships were also gone from thence, without some small vessell or frigot might be there with newes from _Havana_ or _Carthagena_ (for those places send often word and notice of what ships are abroad at sea) but this also was a meer chance, and not to be trusted unto, as my friends did advise, and counsell me. Whereupon my perplexity more and more increased; onely my comfort was that there were more passengers besides my selfe, who I knew must take some course, and whom I also resolved to follow by sea, or land. Amongst us all we were once resolving to hire a frigot to carry us onely to _Carthagena_, but this would not bee granted, for no body would hazard his vessel and life for our sakes. Whilest we were thus distressed and perplexed enquiring about _Granada_ of the Merchants what course we might take to get to _Spaine_ that yeer, or to meet with the _Havana_ or _Carthagena_, one that wished us well, counselled us to goe to _Costarica_, where at _Carthago_ we should be sure to hear of some vessels bound for _Portobel_, either from the river called _de los Anzuelos_, or from the river called _Suere_, from whence every yeer went out some small frigots to carry Meale, Bacon, Fowles, and other provision for the Galeons to _Portobel_. This we thought was a hard and difficult journey, and of neer a hundred and fifty leagues, over mountaines and through desarts, where we should misse the pleasure, variety, and dainties of _Guatemala_ and _Nicaragua_, and after all this peradventure might misse of an opportunity of any frigot bound to _Portobelo_. Yet so unwilling were we all to returne to _Guatemala_ from whence we came, that we would rather go forward, and undergoe any difficulties, so that at last we might find any shipping to convey us where we might meet with the Galeons, which we knew were not to come to _Portobel_, till the month of _June_ or _July_. We therefore agreed foure of us, three _Spaniards_ and my selfe, to goe to _Costarica_, and there to trie our fortune. They had each of them (as my selfe had) carriage for one Mule, and none to ride on; but thought it their best way to buy each of them a Mule to carry them, which they hoped after their journey to sell againe at _Costarica_, and to get mony by them, and for their carriages to hire Mules and _Indians_ from Towne to Towne, who also might serve to guide us through many dangerous places and passages, which we understood were in the way. Now I wished I had my Mule which I sold at _San Miguel_, or any one of the two which I sold before in _Granada_. But for my mony I doubted not, with the helpe of my _Black-more_, but I should find one for my purpose. I furnished my selfe very speedily, for fifty peeces of eight, of one which I feared not would performe my journey. My good and trusty _Black-more_ would willingly have gone on with me, and further round the world if I would have permitted him; but I would not; but (thanked him heartily for what he had done, and gave him money enough in his purse, and dismissed him) hoping that the company of the three _Spaniards_ would be sufficient comfort unto me.

Thus with one _Indian_ to guide us we set four of us out of _Granada_, enjoying for the two first daies more of the pleasure of that _Mahomets_ paradise _Nicaragua_, finding the way for the most part plain, the Townes pleasant, the Countrey shady, and every where fruits abounding. The second day after we set out, we were much affrighted with a huge and monstrous Caiman or Crocodile, which having come out of the Lake (which we passed by) and lying crosse a puddle of water bathing himselfe, and waiting for some prey, as we perceived after, whom we not knowing well at the first, but thinking that it had been some tree that was felled or fallen, passed close by it; when on a suddain we knew the scales of the Cayman, and saw the monster stir and move, and set himself against us; wherewith we made hast from him; but he thinking to have made some of us his greedy prey, ran after us, which when we perceived, and that he was like to overtake us, we were much troubled, untill one of the _Spaniards_ (who knew better the nature & quality of that Beast then the rest) called upon us to turn on one side out of the way, and to ride on straight for a while, and then to turn on another side; and so to circumflex our way, which advice of his without doubt saved mine, or some of the others lives, for thus we wearied that mighty monster and escaped from him, who (had we rid out straightway) had certainly overtaken us, and killed some mule or man, for his straight forward flight was as swift as our Mules could run; but whilst he turned and wheeled about his heavy body, we got ground and advantage till we left him far behind us; and by this experience we came to know the nature and quality of that beast, whose greatnesse of body is no hinderance to run forward as swift as a Mule; but otherwise, as the Elephant once laid down is troubled to get up, so this monster is heavy and stiffe, and therefore much troubled to turne and wind about his body. We praised God who had that day delivered us, and riding for a while by the side of the lake, we were watchful that we might not fall again into the like danger. But the greatnesse of this lake of _Granada_ may from hence be knowne, in that the second and third day of our journey, being at least threescore miles from whence we set out, we now and then found our way lying by it. After that wee had wholly lost the sight of it, we began to enter into rough and craggy wayes, declining more to the South then to the North sea. And in all the rest of our journey to _Carthago_, we observed nothing worth committing to posterity, but onely mighty woods and trees on the South sea side, very fit for to make strong ships, and many mountaines and desert places, where we lay sometimes two nights together, either in woods or open fields, far from any Town or habitation of _Indians_, yet for our comfort in these so desert places we had stil a guide with us, and found lodges, which by the command of the neerest Justices had been set up for such as travelled that way. We came at last through thousand dangers to the city of _Carthago_, which we found not to be so poor as in richer places, as _Guatemala_ and _Nicaragua_ it was reported to be. For there we had occasion to inquire after some Merchants for exchange of gold and silver, and wee found that some were very rich, who traded by Land and Sea with _Panama_, and by Sea with _Portobelo, Carthagena_, and _Havana_, and from thence with _Spain_. This City may consist of foure hundred Families, and is governed by a _Spanish_ Governour; It is a Bishops Sea, and hath in it three Cloisters, two of Fryers, and one of Nuns. Here we began to enquire after that which had brought us through so many Mountaines, Woods and deserts, to wit, after some speedy occasion of shipping our selves for _Portobelo_ or _Carthagena_; and according to our desires wee understood of one Frigat almost ready to set out from the River called _De los Anzuelos_, and another from the River _Suere_; and being well informed that _Suere_ would bee the best place for us to Travaile unto by reason of more provision in the way, more Towns of _Indians_, and Estancia's of _Spaniards_, we resolved within foure dayes after wee had rested in _Carthago_, to undertake a new journey towards the North Sea. Wee found that Country mountainous in many places, yet here and there some Valleys where was very good corn, _Spaniards_ living in good Farmes, who as well as the _Indians_ bred many hogs; but the Townes of _Indians_ we found much unlike to those which wee had left behind in _Nicaragua_ and _Guatemala_; and the people in curtesie and civility much differing from them, and of a rude and bold carriage and behaviour towards us; yet they are kept under by the _Spaniards_, as much as those whom I have formerly spoken of about _Guatemala_. Wee came in so good a time to the River _Suere_, that wee stayed there but three dayes in a _Spanish_ Farm neere unto it, and departed.

The Master of the Frigat was exceeding glad of our company, and offered to carry mee for nothing, but for my prayers to God for him, and for a safe passage; which hee hoped would not bee above three or four daies sailing. What hee carried was nothing but some Hony, Hides, Bacon, meal and fowles. The greatest danger he told us of, was the setting out from the River, (which runs in some places with a very strong stream, is shallow and full of rocks in other places) till wee come forth to the maine Sea. Whither we got out safely and had not sailed on above twenty leagues, when we discovered two ships making towards us; our hearts began to quake, and the Master himselfe of the Frigat wee perceived was not without feare, who suspected that they were _English_, or _Holland_ Ships; wee had no guns nor weapons to fight with, save onely foure or five Muskets and half a dozen Swords; wee thought the wings of our nimble Frigat might be our best comfort, and flying away our chiefest safety. But this comfort soon began to fail us, and our best safety was turned into neer approaching danger; for before wee could flie on five leagues towards _Portobel_, wee could from our Top Mast easily perceive the two Ships to be _Hollanders_, and too nimble for our little Vessell, which presently one of them (which being a Man of Warre, was too much and too strong for our weaknesse) fetcht up, and with a thundring Message made us strike Saile. Without any fighting wee durst not but yeeld, hoping for better mercy. But O what sad thoughts did here run to and fro my dejected heart, which was struck down lower then our Saile? How did I sometimes look upon Deaths frighting visage? But if again I would comfort and incourage my selfe against this feare of Death; how then did I begin to see an end of all my hopes of ever more returning to my wished and desired Country? How did I see that my treasure of Pearles, pretious Stones, and peeces of Eight, and golden Pistols, which by singing I had got in twelve yeers space, now within one halfe houre ready to be lost with weeping, and become a sure prey to those who with as much ease as I got them, and with laughing were ready to spoile mee of all that with the sound of Flutes, Waits and Organs I had so long been hording up? Now I saw I must forcedly and fainedly offer up to a _Hollander_ what superstitious, yea also forced and fained offerings of _Indians_ to their Saints of _Mixco, Pinola, Amatitlan_ and _Petapa_ had for a while enriched mee. My further thoughts were soone interrupted by the _Hollanders_ who came abord our Frigat with more speed then wee desired. Though their Swords, Muskets and Pistols did not a little terrifie, yet wee were somewhat comforted, when wee understood who was their chief Captaine and Commander, and hoped for more mercy from him, who had been born and brought up amongst _Spaniards_, then from the _Hollanders_, who as they were little bound unto the _Spanish_ Nation for mercy, so did wee expect little from them. The Captain of this _Holland_ Ship which took us was a Mulatto, born and bred in _Havana_, whose Mother I saw and spoke with afterwards that same yeer, when the Galeons struck into that Port to expect there the rest that were to come from _Vera Cruz_. This Mulatto for some wrongs which had been offered unto him from some commanding _Spaniards_ in the _Havana_, ventured himself desperately in a boat out to the Sea, where were some _Holland_ Ships waiting for a prize, and with Gods helpe getting unto them, yeelded himself to their mercy, which hee esteemed farre better then that of his own Country-men, promising to serve them faithfully against his owne Nation, which had most injuriously and wrongfully abused, yea and (as I was afterwards informed) whipped him in the _Havana_.

This Mulatto proved so true and faithful in his good services unto the _Hollanders_, that they esteemed much of him, marryed him to one of their Nation, and made him Captain of a Ship under that brave and gallant _Hollander_ whom the _Spaniards_ then so much feared, and named, _Pie de Palo_, or Woodden Leg. This famous Mulatto it was that with his Sea Souldiers borded our Frigat, in the which hee had found little worth his labour, had it not been for the _Indians_ offerings which I carryed with mee, of which I lost that day the worth of four thousand Patacons or peeces of eight in pearles, and pretious stones, and neer three thousand more in money. The other _Spaniards_ lost some hundreds a peece, which was so rich a prize, that it made the _Hollanders_ stomach loath the rest of our grosse provision of Bacon, Meale and Fowles, and our money tasted sweeter unto them, then the Hony which our Frigat also afforded them. Other things I had (as a Quilt to lie on, some Bookes, and Lamina's, which are pictures in brasse, and clothes) which I begged of that Noble Captaine the Mulatto, who considering my Orders and calling, gave mee them freely, and wished me to bee patient, saying that hee could doe no otherwise then he did with my mony and Pearles, and using that common Proverbe at Sea, _Oy por mi, manana por ti_, to day fortune hath been for mee, to morrow it may bee for thee: or to day I have got what to morrow I may lose again. Here I made use also of that common saying, that il gotten goods never thrive, and perceived it was the will of my heavenly Father to take from me what so unlawfully by superstitious and idolatrous Masses, by Offerings unto Idols and Statues of Saints I had got amongst the _Indians_. I offered in lieu of those former offerings my will unto my Lord Gods will, desiring him to grant mee patience to bear that great losse. I confesse, though it was very crosse to flesh and blood, yet I found an inward spirituall strengthning from above, and to be very true what _Paul_ writes to the _Hebrews_ in the 12 Chapter, and Verse 11. saying, _No chastening for the present seemeth to bee joyous, but grievous; neverthelesse afterward it yeeldeth the peaceable fruit of righteousnesse unto them which are exercised thereby_: for that very day I found my inward man quiet and peaceable with a full and totall submission unto the holy will of God, which I desired might bee done in earth, in the Sea, and performed and obeyed by me at that present, as it is alwayes done in heaven. And although this was my best and chief comfort, yet from the creature by the Creators permission I had also some comfort left in a few pistols, some single, some double, which I had sowed up in my Quilt (which the Captain restored unto mee, saying it was the bed I lay in) and in the doublet which I had at that present, which mounted to almost a thousand Crownes, and in their searching was not found out. After the Captain and Souldiers had well viewed their prize, they thought of refreshing their stomacks with some of our provision; the good Captaine made a stately dinner in our Frigat, and invited mee unto it, and knowing that I was going towards the _Havana_, besides many other brindi's or healths, hee drank one unto his mother, desiring mee to see her, and to remember him unto her, and how that for her sake hee had used mee well and courteously in what hee could; and further at Table hee said that for my sake hee would give us our Frigat that wee might return again to land, and that I might find out from thence some safer way and means to get to _Portobelo_, & to continue on my journey unto _Spain_. After dinner I conferred with the Captain alone, and told him that I was no _Spaniard_, but an _English_ man born, shewing him the Licence which I had from _Rome_ to goe to _England_, and that therefore I hoped, not being of an enemy nation to the _Hollanders_, he would restore unto me what goods were mine. But all this was of little consequence with him, who had already taken possession of mine, and all other goods in the ship: he told me, I must suffer with those, amongst whom I was found, and that I might as wel claime all the goods in the ship for mine. I desired him then to carry me along with him to _Holland_, that from thence I might get to _England_, which also he refused to doe, telling me that he went about from one place to another, and knew not when he should goe to _Holland_, and that he was daily ready to fight with any _Spanish_ ship, and if he should fight with the _Spaniards_ whilst I was in his ship, his souldiers in their hot blood might be ready to doe me a mischiefe, thinking I would doe them harm, if in fight they should be taken by the _Spaniards_. With these his answers I saw there was no hope of getting againe what now was lost, therefore (as before) I commended my selfe againe to Gods providence and protection. The Souldiers and Mariners of the _Holland_ ship, made hast that afternoone, to unlode the goods of our Frigat into their Man of warre, which tooke them up that, and part of the next day, whilst we as prisoners were wafting up and down the sea with them. And whereas we thought our mony had satisfied them enough, and to the full, we found the next day that they had also a stomack to our fowles and Bacon, and wanted our Meale to make them bread, and our hony to sweeten their mouthes, and our Hydes for shooes and bootes; all which they tooke away, leaving me my Quilt, Bookes, and brasse pictures, and to the Master of the frigat some small provision, as much as might carry us to land, which was not far off, and thus they tooke their leaves of us, thanking us for their good entertainment. And we weary of such guests, some praying to God that they might never entertaine the like againe, some cursing them all, and especially the Mulatto to hell, calling him Renegado; some thanking God for their lives which were given them for a prey, we all returned again to _Suere_ from whence we had set out, and going up the river, were almost like to bee cast away, and lose our lives, after we had lost our goods. When we came to land, the _Spaniards_ about the Countrey pitied our case, and helped us with almes gathering a Collection for us. The three _Spaniards_ of my company lost all their mony and most of their best clothes, yet they had reserved some bills of Exchange for money to be taken up at _Portobelo_; which I wished I had also for what I had lost. For the present we knew not what course to take; we thought of going to _Rio de los Anzuelos_, but we were informed that certainly the frigats there were either gone, or would be gone before we could get thither; and if they stayed not with the newes of the _Hollanders_ ships at sea, they either already were or would be their prize, as we had been. We resolved therefore with the charitable assistance of the _Spaniards_ about the Countrey to returne again to _Carthago_, and from thence to take some better directions. In the way we conferred what we had saved, the _Spaniards_ bragged yet of their bills of Exchange, which would yeeld them mony at _Carthago_, I would not let them know what I had saved, but somewhat I told them I had kept; and we agreed all the way we went to signifie nothing but poverty and misery, that the _Indians_ and _Spaniards_ in the way might pitty and commiserate us, and our great losses. When we came to _Carthago_ we were indeed much pittied, and Collections were made for us; and as it was expected from mee, that I should sing againe at the Altars (who truely could rather have cried to see and consider my many misfortunes and disasters, which I desired might at last by a safe returne to _England_, prove the trials of the faith I intended to search out) and that I should preach wheresoever I came; so by these two waies, of singing and of hudling over _Dominus vobiscum_ and the rest of the Masse, and by accepting of what Sermons were recommended unto me, I began againe to store my selfe with monies. Yet I knew that in such a poore Countrey as that was, where I was little knowne, I could not possibly get enough to bring me home with credit into _England_, and therefore the cunning enemy finding me to stand upon my credit, began strongly to tempt me to returne againe to _Guatemala_ (where I doubted not but I should be welcomed and entertained by my friends) and to settle my selfe there, untill I had againe by sacrilegious, base, superstitious, and idolatrous means, and works, made up a new purse to returne with credit home.

But I perceiving that God already had shewed himselfe angry, and justly taken from me, what by unlawfull meanes I had in twelve yeers obtained, bad Satan avaunt, purposing never more to returne to the flesh pots of _Egypt_, and to goe still home-wards, though in the way I did beg my bread. Yet (lest I might be suspected amongst the _Spaniards_, and troubled for not exercising my orders and function) I resolved to take what as to a stranger and traveller for preaching or any other exercise might be offered unto me.

Thus with courage resolving to goe on still towards _England_, I enquired at _Carthago_ which way I might get to _Portobelo_. But this doore of hope was fast shut up; though my trust in Gods providence was not weakened. In this season, there came to _Carthago_ some two or three hundred Mules unsadled or unloaden with some _Spaniards, Indians_, and _Black-mores_, from the parts of _Comayagua_ and _Guatemala_ to convey them to _Panama_ by land, over the mountaines of _Veragua_ there to be sold. This is the yeerly and onely trading by land, which _Guatemala, Comayagua_, and _Nicaragua_, hath with _Panama_ over that narrow _Isthmus_ lying between the North, and South sea, which is very dangerous by reason of the craggy waies, rockes, and mountaines, but more especially, by reason of many Heathens, Barbarians and savage people, which as yet are not conquered by the _Spaniards_, and sometimes do great hurt and mischief, and kill those that with Mules passe through their Countrey, especially if they misdemean themselves, or please them not well. Yet for all these difficulties, I was entertaining a thought to go along with those Mules and _Spaniards_, which were now on their way by land to _Panama_. The three _Spaniards_ were halfe of the same mind; but the providence of God who better ordereth and disposeth mans affaires then he himselfe, disappointed these our thoughts for our good and safety, as after we were informed; for we heard for certain at _Nicoya_, that some of those Mules and _Spaniards_ were killed by the _Barbarians_ and savage _Indians_, amongst whom my life might have been lost, if I had attempted that hard and dangerous journey; from which many well wishers at _Carthago_ did disswade me, both for the danger of the _Indians_, and for the difficulties of the waies and mountaines, which they told me the weakenesse of my body would never indure. After we had wholly desisted from this Land journey, the best counsell, that we had from some Merchants our friends, was to try whether _Mar del Zur_, or the South sea, would favour our designe and journey, better then the _Mar del Norte_, or the North sea had done; who wished us to goe to _Nicoya_, and from thence to _Chira_, and to the _Golfo de Salinas_, where they doubted not but we should find shipping to _Panama_. Wee were willing to follow any good advise and counsell; yet we knew that this was the last shift which we could make, and the _non plus ultra_ of our hopes, and that if here we should be disappointed, we could expect no other way ever to get to _Panama_, except we should venture our lives most desperately over the mountaines of _Veragua_, and by land without any guide or company through the Countrey of the Barbarians, (who before had slaine some _Spaniards_ passing that way) or else should returne againe, all the way that we had come, to _Realejo_, where our hopes might be frustrated, and peradventure no shipping found for _Panama_, without a yeers waiting for it.

We resolved therefore to follow this our friends counsell, and to goe yet to _Nicoya_, and from thence to _Golfo de Salinas_, where laughing, I told the three _Spaniards_ of my company, that if we were disappointed, we would like _Hercules_ set up a Pillar to eternize our fame, with our names, and this inscription upon it, _Non plus Ultra_, for that beyond it there was no other Port, Haven, or place, to take shipping to _Panama_; neither could any man have done more (nor ever did any _English_ man in that Countrey doe more then my selfe) then wee had done, but especially my selfe, who from _Mexico_ had thus travelled by land to _Nicoya_ at lead six hundred leagues, or eighteen hundred _English_ miles straight from North to South, besides what I had travelled from _Vera Cruz_ to _Mexico_, and from _Guatemala_ to _Vera Paz_, and to _Puerto de Cavallos_, or _Golfo dulce_, and from thence to _Truxillo_, and from thence back againe to _Guatemala_, which was at least thirteen or fourteen hundred _English_ miles more, which I thought to eternize upon a pillar at _Nicoya_. But what there was not erected, I hope here shall be eternized, and that this my true and faithfull History shall bee a Monument of three thousand, and three hundred miles travelled by an _English_ man, within the main land of _America_, besides other sea navigations to _Panama_, from _Portobel_ to _Carthagena_, and from thence unto the _Havana_. The way which we travelled from _Carthago_ to _Nicoya_ was very mountainous, hard, & unpleasant, for we met with few Estancia's of _Spaniards_, and few _Indian_ Towns, and those very poor, smal, and all of dejected and wretched people. Yet _Nicoya_ is a pretty Towne, and head of a _Spanish_ government, where wee found one _Justo de Salazar_, Alcalde Maior, who entertained us very well, and provided lodgings for us for the time that wee should abide there, and comforted us with hopeful words, that though for the present there was no ship or frigat in the Golfe of _Salinas_, yet he doubted not, but very shortly one would come from _Panama_ thither, for Salt and other commodities, as yeerly they were wont. The time of the yeer when we came thither, was a fit time for me to get againe some monies after my great losse; for it was in Lent which is the Friers chiefest harvest, who (as I have before observed) then by Confessions and by giving the Communion get many money offerings.

The time, and the Franciscan Frier who had the Pastorship and charge of that Towne, were both very commodious unto me, who could not refuse as long as I stayed there to exercise my function, lest I should bring a just cause of suspition and aspersion upon my selfe. The Frier of the Towne was a _Portingal_, who about three weeks before my comming thither had had a very great bickering and strife with _Justo de Salazar_ the Alcalde Maior, for defending the _Indians_, whom _Salazar_ did grievously oppresse, employing them in his, and his wifes service as slaves, and not paying them what for the sweat of their browes was due unto them, and commanding them to be from their home and from their wives, and from their Church upon the Sabbath, working for him as well that day as any other. Which the Frier not enduring, charged them in the pulpit, not to obey any such unlawfull commands from their Alcalde Maior. But _Justo de Salazar_ (who had been trained up in warres and fighting, and had served formerly in the Castle of _Milan_) thought it a great disparagement unto him, now to be curbed by a Frier, and by such a one to be interrupted in his government of the _Indians_, and in the waies of his owne lucre and gaine. Therefore after many bitter words and defiances, which had passed between him and the Frier, he came one day resolutely to the Friers house with his sword drawne; and certainly had not the Frier been assisted by some of the _Indians_, he had killed him. The Frier being as hot as he, and standing upon his calling, Orders, and Preisthood, presuming that hee durst not touch him violently, lest his priviledge should bring an excommunication upon the striker and offendour, would not flie from him, but dared him boldly; which was a strong provocation to _Salazars_ heat and passion, and caused him to lift up his sword, and aime his blow and stroke at the Frier, which fell so unhappily that with it he strucke of two of the Friers fingers, and had undoubtedly seconded another blow more hurtfull and dangerous to the Frier, had not the _Indians_ interposed themselves, and shut up their Preist into his chamber. _Justo_ was for this action excommunicated, yet for that he was a man of high authority, he soone got off his excommunication from the Bishop of _Costarica_ and sent his complaint to the Chancery of _Guatemala_ against the Frier, where with friends and mony he doubted not but to overcome the Mendicant Preist, as it happened after; for (as I was informed) hee caused the Frier to be sent for up to the Court, and there prevailed so much against him, that he got him to be removed from _Nicoya_. In this season the Frier kept his house and chamber, and would by no means goe out to the Church, either to say Masse, or to preach, or hear Confessions, (all which that time of the yeer did require of him) but had got one to helpe him; who alone not being able to performe so great a charge of many hundred _Indians, Spaniards, Black-mores_, and _Mulatto's_, who from the Countrey without, and from the Towne within expected to have their Confessions heard, their sins absolved, the word preached, and the Communion to be given them; hearing of my comming desired me to assist and helpe him, and that for my paines I should have my meat and drinke at his table, and a Crowne daily for every Masse, and whatsoever else the people should voluntarily offer, besides the Sermons, which should be well rewarded unto me. I staied in this Towne from the second week of Lent untill Easter weeke, where what with three Sermons at ten Crownes a peece, what with my daily stipend and many other offerings, I got about an hundred and fifty Crownes.

The weeke before Easter newes came of a frigat from _Panama_ to _Golfo de Salinas_, which much comforted us, who already began to mistrust the delay. The Master of the frigat came to _Nicoya_, which is as Court thereabouts; and with him the three _Spaniards_ and my selfe agreed for our passage to _Panama_. About _Chira, Golfo de Salinas_, and _Nicoya_, there are some farmes of _Spaniards_, few and very small _Indian_ Townes, who are all like slaves employed by the Alcalde Maior, to make him a kind of thred called Pita, which is a very rich Commodity in _Spain_, especially of that colour wherewith it is dyed in these parts of _Nicoya_, which is a purple colour; for the which the _Indians_ are here much charged to work about the Sea shore, and there to finde out certain shels, wherewith they make this purple dye.

There are also shels for other colours, which are not knowne to be so plentifully in any other place as here. About _Chira_ and _Golfo de Salinas_ the chief commodities are Salt, Hony, Maiz, some Wheat and Fowles, which every yeer they send by some few Frigats to _Panama_, which from thence come on purpose to fetch them with this purple coloured thred, or _Pita_, which I have spoken of. The Frigat which came when I was there, was soon laden with these Commodities, and with it we set out hoping to have been at _Panama_ within five or six dayes. But as often before we had been crossed, so likewise in this short passage wee were striving with the Wind, Sea, and Corrientes, as they are called (which are swift streames as of a River) foure full weekes. After the first day that wee set out, wee were driven with a wind and storme towards _Peru_, till wee came under the very Æquinoctiall line, where what with excessive heat, what with mighty stormes, we utterly despaired of life. But after one week that we had thus run towards death, it pleased God in whom and by whom all creatures live, move, and have their being, to comfort us againe with hopes of life, sending us a prosperous gale, which drove us out of that Æquinoctiall heat, and stormy Sea, towards the Islands of _Perlas_ and _Puerta de Chame_, lying on the South side of the Mountaines of _Veragua_, from whence wee hoped within two dayes at the most, to be at rest and Anchor at _Panama_. But yet these our hopes were frustrated, for there our wind was calmed, and we fell upon those strong Corrientes or streams, which drave us back in the night for the space of almost a fortnight as much as wee had sailed in the day. Had not God againe been merciful here unto us, we had certainly perished in this our striving with the stream; for although wee wanted not provision of food, yet our drink failed us so, that for foure dayes wee tasted neither drop of wine or water, or any thing that might quench our thirst, save onely a little hony which wee found did cause more thirst in us, which made mee and some others to drink our own Urine, and to refresh our mouthes with peeces of lead bullets, which did for a while refresh, but would not long have sufficed Nature, had not Gods good Providence sent us such a wind which in the day drave us quite off from those Corrientes. Our first thoughts were then to strike either to the Continent, or some Island of many which were about us to seek for water, finding our bodies weak and languishing; which the Captaine of the Ship would by no meanes yeeld unto, assuring us that that day hee would land us at _Panama_; but wee not being able to saile on without drink, unlesse wee should yeeld to have our dead and not live bodies landed where hee promised, thought it no good purchase though we might buy all _Panama_ with our lives, which wee judged could not hold out another day; and seeing that the wind began to slacken, we all required him to strike into some Island for water; which he stubbornly refused and denyed to doe; whereupon the three _Spaniards_ and some of the Mariners mutinied against him with drawn Swords, threatning to kill him if he betooke not himselfe presently to some Island. The good Master thought it bad sport to see Swords at his breast, and so commanded his Ship to bee turned to two or three Islands, which were not above two or three houres sail from us. When we drew nigh unto them, wee cast our Anchor, and our Cock-boat, and happy was hee that could first cast himself into it to be rowed to land to fill his belly with water. The first Island wee landed upon, was on that side unhabitable, where wee spent much time running to and fro, over heating our selves and increasing our thirst; thus whilst one ran one way, and another tryed another to find out some fountain, our hopes being frustrated and I lost in the Wood, and my shooes torne from my feet, with stony rocks, and many thornes and bushes in other places; my company betook themselves to the Cock-boat to try another Island, leaving mee alone, and lost in the Wood; out of which at last when I came, and found the Cock-boat gone from the shore, I began to consider myself a dead man, thinking that they had found water and were gone to Ship, and not finding mee would hoise up their sailes for _Panama_. Thus being dejected I cryed out to the Ship, which I perceived could not possibly hear my weak voyce, and running up and down the Rocks to see if I could discover the Cock-boat, I perceived it was not with the Ship, and espied it at the next Island. With this I began to hope better things of them that they would call for mee when they had gotten water; so I came down from the Rocks to the plain shore, where I found a shade of trees and amongst them some berries (which might have been poison, for I knew them not) wherewith I refreshed my mouth for a while; but my body so burned that I thought there with heat, weaknesse and faintnesse I should have expired and given up the Ghost. I thought by stripping my selfe naked and going into the Sea unto my neck, I might thus refresh my body, which I did, and comming out againe into the shade, I fell into a deep sleep, in so much that the Cock-boat comming for mee, and the company hollowing unto mee, I awaked not, which made them feare that I was dead or lost; till landing, one searched for mee one way, and another another, and so they found me, who might have been a prey to some wild Beast, or slept till the Frigat had gone away, and so have perished in a barren and unhabitable Island. When they awaked mee, I was glad to see my good company, and the first thing I enquired for, was, if they had got any water; they bad mee bee of good cheere and arise, for they had water enough, and Oranges and Lemmons from another Island, where they met with _Spaniards_ that did inhabit it. I made haste with them to the Boat, and no sooner was I entred into it, but they gave mee to drink as much as I would. The water was warme and unsetled, for they could not take it up so but that they tooke of the gravell and bottome of the Fountain, which made it look very muddy; yet for all this (as though my life had depended upon it) I drank up a whole pot of it; which no sooner had I dranke, but such was the weaknesse of my stomack that it presently cast it up againe not being able to beare it. With this they wished me to eat an Orange or a Lemmon; but them also did my stomack reject; so to our Frigat wee went, and in the way I fainted so that the company verily thought I would die, before wee got aboard. When wee came thither I called againe for water, which was no sooner downe my stomack, but presently up again; they had mee to bed with a burning Feaver upon mee; where I lay that night expecting nothing but death, and that the Sea should bee my grave.