Chapter I: shall faithfully commend unto the Presse (1)

CHAP. XV.

_Describing the Countrey of_ Chiapa, _with the chiefest Townes and Commodities belonging unto it._

Though _Chiapa_ in the opinion of the _Spaniards_ be held to be one of the poorest Countries of _America_; because in it as yet there have been no mines discovered, nor golden sands found in the rivers, nor any haven upon the South-sea, whereby commodities are brought in and carried out, as to _Mexico, Guaxaca_ and _Guatemala_; yet I may say it exceedeth most Provinces in the greatness and beauty of fair Towns, and yeeldeth to none except it be to _Guatemala_; nay it surpasseth all the rest of _America_ in that one, and famous and most populous Towne of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_. And it ought not to be so much slighted by the _Spaniards_ as it is, if they would looke upon it as standing between _Mexico_ and _Guatemala_, whose strength might be all _Americaes_ strength, and whose weakenesse may prove dangerous to all that flourishing Empire, for the easy entrance into it by the river of _Tabasco_, or for its neer joyning and bordering unto _Jucatan_. Besides, the commodities in it are such as doe uphold a constant trading and commerce amongst the inhabitants themselves, and with other neighbouring Countries, and from no one part of _America_ doth _Spaine_ get more _Cochinil_ then from one of the Provinces of _Chiapa_; the Townes also being great and populous, by their yeerly pole tribute do adde much to the King of _Spaines_ revenues.

This Country is divided into three Provinces, to wit, _Chiapa, Zeldales_, and _Zoques_; whereof _Chiapa_ it selfe is the poorest. This containes the great Towne of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, and all the Townes and farmes North-ward towards _Maquilapa_, and West-ward the Priory of _Comitlan_, which hath some ten Townes, and many farmes of Cattle, Horses, and Mules subject unto it; and neighbouring unto it lieth the great valley of _Capanabastla_, which is another Priory reaching towards _Soconuzco_. This valley glorieth in the great river, which hath its spring from the mountaines called _Cuchumatlanes_, and runneth to _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, and from thence to _Tabasco_. It is also famous for the abundance of fish, which the river yeeldeth, and the great store of Cattell which from thence minister food and provision both to the City of _Chiapa_, and to all the adjacent Townes. Though _Chiapa_ the City, and _Comitlan_ as standing upon the hils, bee exceeding cold, yet this valley lying low is extraordinary hot, and from _May_ to _Michaelmas_ is subject to great stormes and tempests of thunder and lightning. The head Towne where the Priory stands, is called _Capanabastla_, consisting of above eight hundred _Indian_ inhabitants. But greater than this is _Izquintenango_ at the end of the valley and at the foot of the mountaines of _Cuchumatlanes_ Southward. And yet bigger then this is the Towne of _St. Bartholomew_ Northward at the other end of the valley, which in length is about fourty miles, and ten or twelve onely in breadth. All the rest of the Townes lie towards _Soconuzco_, and are yet hotter and more subject to thunder and lightning, as drawing neerer unto the South-sea coast. Besides the abundance of cattell, the chiefe commoditie of this valley consisteth in Cotton-wooll, whereof are made such store of mantles for the _Indians_ wearing, that the Merchants far and neer come for them. They exchange them to _Soconuzco_ and _Suchutepeques_ for _Cacao_, whereby they are well stored of that drinke. So that the inhabitants want neither fish (which they have from the river) nor flesh (for that the valley abounds with Cattell) nor clothing (for of that they spare to others) nor bread, though not of wheat, for there growes none; but _Indian_ Maiz they have plenty of; and besides they are exceedingly stored with fowles and Turkeys, fruits, Hony, Tobacco and Sugar-canes. Neither is mony here nor in _Chiapa_ so plentifull as in _Mexico_ and _Guaxaca_; and whereas there they reckon by Patacones, or pieces of Eight; here they reckon by Tostones which are but halfe Patacones. Though the river be many waies profitable to that valley, yet it is cause of many disasters to the inhabitants, who lose many times their children, and their Calves and Colts drawing neere to the water-side, where they are devoured by Caymanes, which are many and greedy of flesh, by reason of the many prizes they have got. The City of _Chiapa Real_, is one of the meanest Cities in all _America_, consisting of not above four hundred housholders _Spaniards_, and about an hundred houses of _Indians_ joyning to the City, and called _el barrio de los Indios_, who have a Chappell by themselves. In this City there is no Parish Church, but onely the Cathedrall, which is mother to all the inhabitants. Besides, there are two Cloisters, one of Dominicans, and the other of Franciscans, and a poore Cloister of Nuns, which are burdensome enough to that City. But the Jesuites having got no footing there (who commonly live in the richest and wealthiest places and Cities) is a sufficient argument of either the poverty of that City, or of want of gallant parts, and prodigality in the gentry, from whose free and generous spirits they like Horse-leeches are still sucking extraordinary and great almes for the Colledges where they live; but here the Merchants are close handed, and the Gentlemen hard, and sparing, wanting of wit and Courtiers parts and bravery, and so poore _Chiapa_ is held no fit place for Jesuites. The Merchants chiefe trading there is in _Cacao_, Cotton-wool from the adjacent parts of the Country, in Pedlers small wares, and in some Sugar from about _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, in a little _Cochinil_; for commonly the Governour (whose chiefe gaine consisteth in this) will not suffer them to be too free in this commoditie, lest they hinder his greedy traffique. These have their shops all together in a little Market-place before the Cathedrall Church, built with walkes and Porches, under which the poore _Indian_ wives meet at five a clock at evening to sell what slap and drugges they can prepare most cheape for the empty Criolian stomackes. The richer sort of these Merchants go and send yet further to _Tabasco_ for wares from _Spaine_, such as wines, Linnen cloth, Figs, Raisins, Olives, and Iron, though in these commodities they dare not venture too much, by reason the _Spaniards_ in that Country are not very many, and those that are there, are such as are loath to open their purses to more then what may suffice nature. So that what are _Spanish_ commodities are chiefly brought for the Friers who are the best and joviallest blades of that Countrey. The Gentlemen of _Chiapa_ are a by-word all about that Country, signifying great Dons (_dones_, gifts or abilities I should say) great birth, phantasticke pride, joyned with simplicity, ignorance, misery and penury. These Gentlemen will say they descend from some Dukes house in _Spain_, and immediately from the first Conquerors; yet in carriage they are but clownes, in wit, abilities, parts and discourse as shallow brained, as a low brooke, whose waters are scarce able to leap over a pibble stone; any small reason soone tries and tires their weak braine, which is easily at a stand when sense is propounded, and slides on speedily when non-sense carrieth the streame. The chiefe families in this City, are named, _Cortez, Solis, Velasco, Toledo, Zerna_, and _Mendoza_. One of these, who was thought the chiefe in my time, called _Don Melchor de Velasco_, one day fell into discourse with mee concerning _England_, and our _English_ nation, and in the best, most serious and judicious part of his Don-like conference, asked me whether the sun and moone in _England_ were of the same colour as in _Chiapa_, and whether _English_ men went barefoot like the _Indians_, and sacrificed one another as formerly did the Heathens of this Countrey? and whether all _England_ could afford such a dainty as a dish of Frixoles (which is the poorest _Indians_ daily food there, being black and dry Turkey or French beanes boyled with a little biting Chille or _Indian_ pepper with garlicke, till the broath become as black as any Inke)? And whether the women in _England_ went as long with child, as did the _Spanish_ women? And lastly, whether the _Spanish_ nation were not a farre gallanter nation then the _English_? When I perceived my Don ran farther and farther into his simple and foolish questions, I cut him off suddenly, telling him, Sir, It is long since I came out of _England_, if you give me leave to recollect my memory, I will answer some of these your hard questions the next time we meet (thinking hereby to try my Dons wit further, whether he could perceive I jeared him.) To which my simple Don replyed, I pray Sir doe, and whensoever you come, you shall be welcome to a dish of Frixoles. With this I tooke my leave of him, and at our farewell, he againe desired mee to study well his questions, and to return him a speedy answer, whereby I was more confirmed in my conceit of my _Don_, that he was either _tonto_ or _bobo_, foole or simple. Yet thought I my best way to answer is to answer a fool according to his folly, and so resolved within two or three daies to return unto him some simple answer according to his simple and foolish questions. Therefore speedily I singled out a good occasion of meeting with him at his own house, who welcomed me with much _Spanish_ gravity, and sitting down before _Donna Angela_, his painted wife and Angel; began to answer, or more to jeer his _Donship_. I began with the Sun and Moon, telling him that they were planets, & had their speciall influences upon severall nations, as all planets have upon mans body. And so they did shew themselves according to the inclination of the people of severall Kingdomes. And therefore as the _Spaniards_ were much inclined to _Venus_ and to beauty, and not contenting themselves with the naturall beauty of their faire Ladies, would yet have Art add to nature by the skill and use of the best painting colours; so these glorious planets of the Sun and Moon among the _Spaniards_, and especially in _Chiapa_, shewed themselves most comely, bright, glorious and beautifull, working the like inclination to beauty upon, and in all _Spaniards_. My instance was in the land of the Blackmores, where I told them that their bodies were black, and that among them the Sun appeared with a dark and sad visage. Here my _Don_ cried out; An excellent example. I gave him yet a second instance from the Eclipse of the Sun; which being eclipsed, made all the Earth, mens faces and bodies seeme of a darke, or yellow colour, to shew the proportion or sympathy of sublunary bodies to that high and overmastering planet. To this that good _Don_ replyed; _sennor no se puede decir mas_, sir, nothing can be answered or said more or better. _Vengamos agora a Ingalatierra_, Let us draw now to _England_. To which I answered him, that in _England_ the Sun and Moon appeared halfe yeer of one colour, and half of another; for the women one half yeer it appeared as in _Spain_ and _Chiapa_, beautifull and glorious, for that naturally without painting they yeelded to none in beauty. But the other half yeer it appeared as red as blood, or scarlet; and the reason might easily bee guessed at, for that no Nation is more warlik and high spirited then the _English_, whose very clothes were fiery, wearing more scarlet then any nation in the World; as hee might perceive by their coming so much with their ships to the _Indian_ Coasts to fight with the _Spaniards_; and that as they delighted to goe in red, and to bee like the Sun, so naturally they were brought to those Seas to single out such ships as from _America_ carried the rich Commodity of _Cochinill_, whereof they make more use then _Spain_ it selfe to die their cloaths and Coats withall. Here my _Don_ jogged his head, and replyed; Sir, I thought no nation had been so like the Sun as the _Spaniards_; for I have read that when our Ancestors came to conquer these parts, the _Indians_ called them, _hijos del Sol_, that is, sons of the Sun, being comely and gallant, and more like the Sun then any other people. To this I answered him. Sir, no doubt but you are like the Sun here, and none more glittering and bright, your very hatbands shining with Pearls and Diamonds like the brightnesse of the Sun; But as I said before the Blackmores are like their Sun, so I say, the _English_ is like their Sun, which is red, and so doe and will affect to wear Scarlet, as long as any _Cochinill_ is to be found in the _India's_.

Now _Don Melchor_ began to understand mee, and told mee, never man had satisfied him with better reasons then my self. Hee thanked mee heartily, and told mee, hee thought no Gentleman in _Chiapa_ could tell so well as himself now why the _English_ ships came so much upon their Coasts; and that my discourse had satisfied him to the full. Hee desired mee to goe on to his other questions. To his second demanding whether the _English_ went barefoot like the _Indians_, I told him I thought that the Count of _Gondomar_, (who had been many yeers Ambassadour from _Spain_ in _England_) had satisfied all the _Spaniards_ that doubt, who coming from _England_ to _Madrid_, and being there asked by some Courtiers, whether _London_ was as big as _Madrid_, and as well peopled; he made answer, that hee thought there was scarce a hundred left in _London_. Hee proved it from the use and custome of his own Countrymen of _Spain_; who when they are to make a journey, shew themselves two or three daies before in colours, walking with boots and spurs, that their friends may take notice that they are departing out of the Towne or City. So said the Count of _Gondomar_, I think by this there are very few People in _London_; for when I came from thence I left them all almost in cloaths of colours, booted and spurred as ready to depart and take some journey. And truely my _Don_ (quoth I) your owne Count hath answered for mee; yet I say, the _English_ are so farre from going barefoot, that they goe booted, and are all in a readinesse to move out of _England_ for any noble and generous designe; but above all they are still ready for _America_, where they know is store and abundance of Hydes to make them Bootes to cover the barenesse of their legges, that they may not be suspected to be like bare-footed _Indians_. Here _Don Melchor_ replyed, I pray sir, when they come by Sea to these parts doe they come also booted and spurred? For I should thinke, when they fight, their Spurs should hinder them. To this his doubt I answered first, as concerning spurres in the ships, with the example of one of his own Nation, and of the best Divines in _Spain_, living in my time in _Valladolid_, called _Maestro Nunno_, (Reader of Divinity in the Colledge of St. _Gregorie_, but in his carriage and experience in the World a simple noddy) who being invited by a Noble man to goe with him in his Coach out of the City a mile or two to a garden of recreation, went hastily about the Colledge to borrow boots and spurs; and when he had put them on, being asked whither he went, and why he put on boots and spurs, answered that he was to goe in a Coach out of the City, and that hee thought the Coach and Mules would want spurs to goe and come the sooner. Even so my _Don_ (quoth I) the _English_ men come booted and spurred in their ships, to make their ships sail on the swifter. And this is the reason why the _English_ ships saile faster, and when they are in fight turn about quicker then a _Spanish_ Galeon, because they are spurred & kicked within. O Sir, I humbly thank you (said _Don Melchor_) for that by your discourse now I know the truth of what indeed I have often heard say, that the _English_ ships are nimbler, and quicker at Sea then our heavy Galeons. Now as for fighting the _English_ mens spurs (said I) are no hinderance to them, but rather a great advantage. For they fight with weapons, with their hands and with their feet, wherein they exceed the _Spaniards_; for when they have shot with their peeces, or cut down with their swords any enemy, or knocked him with their holbards, then with their feet and spurres, they fall upon him, and so soone rid him out of the way, that hee may no more rise up against them. All you have told mee (said the wise _Velazco_) stands with so much reason, that my judgment is convinced by you. As for eating and sacrificing one another like the _Indians_ (I told him) that the _English_ filled their bellies so well with fat Beef and Mutton, fowles, Rabbits, Partridges and Pheasants, that they had no stomacke at all to mans flesh. And that truly for frixoles dressed with garlick, that onely daintie dish was wanting in _England_; and that for Garlick, three reasons moved the _English_ not to bee lavishing of that little they had; first, for feare they should want it for their horses drenches; secondly, for that they felt not themselves so much troubled with the wind, nor puffed up with windy and vaine conceits as other nations did; but thirdly and chiefly they refrained from it among themselves, that they might not smell of it, and that by the sent and smell of it a farre off at Sea they might when they came to the Coast of _America_, smell out a _Spanish_ ship, and know it from a _Hollander_. Here my _Don Melchor_ fell into admiration, assuring mee, hee had never heard more solid reasons from any man. Alas poore Criolian of _Chiapa_ (thought I) if I had spoken sense, thy shallow braine had not beene able to have leaped over it, but after non-sense thou art easily carried away. As for his last question, I told him that was above my reach, for that poore Fryers ought not to meddle with women, neither had my mother ever told mee how long shee went with mee. But how ever if _Donna Angela_ would tell mee how long shee went with her children, I would by the constellations of the Heavens search out against our next meeting, how long the _English_ women went with their children. To this my _Don Melchor_ answered that he would not trouble me to study what he thought was not belonging to my profession; but he knew that if I would study that or any other hard & difficult point, I could give him more & better satisfaction then any scholar in that City.

And thus (Reader) by this Don _Melchors_ wit and ability would I have thee judge of the Gentlemen Criolians or natives of _Chiapa_; and yet as presumptuous they are and arrogant, as if the noblest bloud in the Court of _Madrid_ ran through their veines. It is a common thing amongst them to make a dinner only with a dish of Frixoles in black broath, boyled with pepper and garlicke, saying it is the most nourishing meat in all the _India's_; and after this so stately a dinner they will be sure to come out to the street-dore of their houses to see and to be seen, and there for halfe an houre will they stand shaking off the crums of bread from their cloaths, bands (but especially from their ruffes when they used them) and from their mustachoes. And with their tooth-pickers they will stand picking their teeth, as if some small Partridge bone stuck in them; nay if a friend passe by at that time, they will be sure to find out some crum or other in their mustacho (as if on purpose the crums of the table had been shaken upon their beards, that the losse of them might be a gaining of credit for great house keeping) and they will be sure to vent out some non-truth, as to say, _A Senor que linda perdiz he comido oy,_ O Sir, what a dainty Partridge have I eat to day, where as they picke out nothing from their teeth but a black husk of a dry frixole or Turkey bean. Though great in blood and in birth they say they are, yet in their imployments they are but rich Grasiers, for most of their wealth consisteth in farmes of Cattell and Mules. Some indeed have Townes of _Indians_ subject unto them, whereof they are called Encomendero's, and receive yeerly from every _Indian_ a certaine Pole tribute of fowles and mony. They have most cowardly spirits for warre, and though they will say, they would faine see _Spaine_, yet they dare not venture their lives at sea; they judge sleeping in a whole skin the best maxime for their Criolian spirits. One hundred fighting souldiers would easily lay low those _Chiapa Dons_, and gain the whole City, which lyeth so open to the fields, that the Mules and Asses come in and grase, the streets being very commodious to entertain Asses from within, and from without. Yet in this City liveth commonly a Governour, or Alcalde Major, and a Bishop. The Governours place is of no small esteem and interest, for that his power reacheth farre, and he tradeth much in Cacao and Cochinil, and domineers over both _Spaniards_ and _Indians_ at his will and pleasure. But ill gotten goods never thrive, as was seen in _Don Gabriel de Orellana_ (Governour of this City and Countrey in my time) who having sent the worth of eight thousand crownes in Cochinil, Cacao, Sugar, and Hydes by the river of _Tabasco_ towards the _Havana_ lost it all into the hands of the _Hollanders_, who doubtlesse knew how to make better use of it, then would have done that tyrannizing Governour. The Bishops place of that City is worth at least eight thousand duckats a yeer, which truly he had need of that comes so far from _Spain_ to live in such a City where are such able _Dons_, as _Don Melchor de Velasco_, and where Asses are so freely fed and bred. Most of this Bishops revenues consisteth in great offerings which he yeerly receiveth from the great _Indian_ Townes, going out to them once a yeer to confirme their children, whose confirmation is such a means to confirme and strengthen the Bishops revenues, that none must be confirmed by him who offer not a faire white Wax-candle, with a ribban and at least foure Rials. I have seen the richer sort offer him a Candle of at least six pound weight with two yards of twelve penny broad ribban, and the Candle stucke from the top to the bottom with single Rials round about. Nay the poore _Indians_ make it the chiefe masterpiece of their vanity to offer proudly in such occasions. _Don Bernardino de Salazar_ was the Bishop of this City in my time, who desired my company to ride with him his circuit but one moneth, about the Townes neer to _Chiapa_, and in this time I was appointed by him to hold the basin wherein the _Spaniards_ and _Indians_ (whilst he confirmed their children) did cast their offerings, which my selfe and another Chaplaine did alwaies tell and cast up by good account before we carried the mony up into his chamber, and I found that at our returne at the moneths end he had received one thousand and six hundred duckats of onely offerings, besides the fees due to him for visiting the severall companies, or sodalities and confraternities belonging to the Saints or soules in their purgatory (which are extraordinary rich there) whereof he and all other Bishops in their district take account yeerly. This Bishop was (as all the rest are there) somewhat covetous; but otherwise a man of a temperate life and conversation, very zealous to reforme whatsoever abuses committed in the Church, which cost him his life before I departed from _Chiapa_ to _Guatemala_. The women of that City it seems pretend much weakenesse and squeamishnesse of stomack, which they say is so great, that they are not able to continue in the Church while a Masse is briefly hudled over, much lesse while a solemn high Masse (as they call it) is sung, and a Sermon preached, unlesse they drinke a cup of hot Chocolatte, and eat a bit of sweet-meats to strengthen their stomackes. For this purpose it was much used by them to make their maids bring to them to Church in the middle of Masse or Sermon a cup of Chocolatte, which could not be done to all, or most of them without a great confusion and interrupting both Masse and Sermon. The Bishop perceiving this abuse and having given faire warning for the omitting of it, but all without amendment, thought fit to fixe in writing upon the Churches dores an excommunication against all such as should presume at the time of service to eat or drinke within the Church. This excommunication was taken by all, but especially by the Gentlewomen much to heart, who protested if they might not eat or drinke in the Church, they could not continue in it to heare what otherwise they were bound unto. The chiefe of them knowing what great friendship there was between the Bishop and the Prior, and my selfe, came to the Prior and mee desiring us to use all meanes wee could with the Bishop for the revoking that his excommunication so heavily laid upon them, and threatning their soules with damning judgement for the violation of it. The good Prior and my selfe laboured all we could, alleadging the custome of the Countrey, the weakenesse of the sex whom it most concerned, and also the weaknesse of their stomackes, the contempt that might from them ensue unto his person, and many inconveniences which might follow to the breeding of an uproar in the church and in the City, whereof we had some probable conjecture from what already we had heard from some. But none of these reasons would move the Bishop; to which he answered that he preferred the honour of God, and of his house before his owne life. The women seeing him so hard to be intreated, began to stomacke him the more and to sleight him with scornefull and reproachfull words; others sleighted his excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the Church, as the fish doth water, which caused one day such an uproare in the Cathedrall, that many swords were drawne against the Preists and Prebends, who attempted to take away from the maids the cups of Chocolatte, which they brought unto their mistresses; who at last seeing that neither faire nor foule meanes would prevaile with the Bishop, resolved to forsake the Cathedrall, where the Bishops own and his Prebends eies must needs be watching over them; and so from that time most of the City betooke themselves to the Cloister Churches, where by the Nuns and Friers they were not troubled nor resisted, though fairely counselled to obey the command of the Bishop; whose name now they could not brooke, and to whose Prebends they denied now all such reliefe and stipend for Masses which formerly they had used to bestow upon them, conferring them all upon the Fryers who grew rich by the poor impoverished Cathedrall. This lasted not long, but the Bishop began to stomacke the Fryers, and to set up another excommunication, binding all the City to resort unto their owne Cathedrall Church; which the women would not obey, but kept their houses for a whole month; in which time the Bishop fell dangerously sick, and desired to retire himselfe to the Cloister of the Dominicans, for the great confidence he had in the Prior that he would take care of him in his sickenesse. Physitians were sent for far and neere, who all with a joynt opinion agreed that the Bishop was poisoned; and he himself doubted not of it at his death, praying unto God to forgive those that had been the cause of it, and to accept of that sacrifice of his life, which he was willing to offer for the zeale of Gods house and honour. He lay not above a week in the Cloister, and as soone as he was dead, all his body, his head and face did so swell, that the least touch upon any part of him caused the skin to break and cast out white matter, which had corrupted and overflowne all his body. A Gentlewoman with whom I was well acquainted in that City, who was noted to be somewhat too familiar with one of the Bishops Pages, was commonly censured to have prescribed such a cup of Chocolatte to be ministred by the Page which poysoned him who so rigorously had forbidden Chocolatte to be drunk in the Church. My self heard this Gentlewoman say of the deceased Bishop, that she thought few grieved for his death, & that the women had no reason to grieve for him, and that she judged, he being such an enemy to Chocolatte in the Church, that which he had drunk at home in his house had not agreed with his body. And it became afterwards a Proverbe in that Country, Beware of the Chocolatte of _Chiapa_; which made me so cautious, that I would not drinke afterwards of it in any house, where I had not very great satisfaction of the whole Family. The women of this City are somewhat light in their carriage, and have learned from the Devill many entising lessons and baits to draw poore soules to sinne and damnation; and if they cannot have their wills, they wil surely work revenge either by Chocolatte or Conserves, or some faire present, which shall surely carry death along with it. The Gentlewoman that was suspected (nay was questioned for the death of the Bishop) had often used to send me boxes of Chocolatte or conserves; which I willingly received from her, judging it to be a kind of gratuity for the paines I tooke in teaching her son _Latin_. She was of a very merry and pleasant disposition, which I thought might consist without sin; untill one day she sent unto mee a very faire plantin wrapped up in a hankerchief, buried in sweet Jazmines and roses; when I untied the handkerchief, I thought among the flowers I should find some rich token, or some peeces of eight, but finding nothing but a plantin, I wondred; and looking further upon it, I found worked upon it with a knife the fashion of a heart with two of blind Cupids arrows sticking in it, discovering unto my heart the poisoned heart and thoughts of the poisoner that sent it. I thought it a good warning to be wary and cautious of receiving more presents or Chocolatte from such hands, and so returned unto her againe her plantin with this short rhyme cut out with a knife upon the skinne _fruta tan fria, amor no cria_, as much as to say, fruit so cold, takes no hold. This answer and resolution of mine was soone spread over that little City, which made my Gentlewoman outragious, which presently she shewed by taking away her sonne from schoole, and in many meetings threatning to play me a _Chiapaneca_ tricke. But I remembred the Bishops Chocolatte and so was wary, and staid not long after in that poisoning and wicked City, which truly deserves no better relation then what I have given of the simple _Dons_, and the Chocolatte-confectioning _Donna's_.

There is yet twelve leagues from this City of _Chiapa_, another _Chiapa_ which deserveth better commendations. This consisteth most of _Indians_, and is held to be one of the biggest _Indian_ Townes in all _America_, containing at least four thousand families. This Towne hath many priviledges from the King of _Spain_, and is governed chiefly by _Indians_ (yet with subordination unto the _Spanish_ government of the City of _Chiapa_) who doe choose an _Indian_ Governour with other inferiour officers to rule with him. This Governour may wear a rapier and dagger, and enjoyeth many other liberties which to the rest of the _Indians_ are denied. No Towne hath so many _Dons_ in it of _Indian_ blood as this. _Don Philip de Guzman_ was Governour of it in my time, a very rich _Indian_, who kept up commonly in his stable a dozen of as good Horses for publike shewes, and ostentation as the best _Spaniard_ in the Countrey. His courage was not inferiour to any _Spaniard_, and for defence of some priviledges of his Town sued in the Chancery of _Guatemala_ the proud and high minded Governour of the City of _Chiapa_, spending therein great sums of money till he had overcome him, whereupon he caused a feast to be made in the Towne, both by water and land, so stately, that truly in the Court of _Madrid_ it might have been acted.

This Towne lyeth upon a great river, whereunto belong many boats and Canoas, wherein those _Indians_ have been taught to act sea-fights, with great dexterity, and to represent the Nymphes of _Parnassus, Neptune, Æolus_, and the rest of the heathenish Gods and Goddesses, so that they are a wonder of their whole nation. They will arme with their boats a siege against the Town, fighting against it with such courage til they make it yeeld, as if they had been trained up all their life to sea-fights. So likewise within the Town they are as dexterous at baiting of buls, at _juego de Cannas_, at Horse-races, at arming a Campe, at all manner of _Spanish_ dances, instruments, and musick as the best _Spaniards_. They will erect Towers and Castles made of wood and painted cloth, & from them fight either with the boats or one against another, with squibs, darts, and many strange fire-works, so manfully, that if in earnest they could perform it as well as they do it in sport and pastime, the _Spaniards_ and Fryers might soon repent to have taught them what they have. As for acting of playes, this is a common part of their solemne pastimes; and they are so generous, that they nothing think too much to spend in banquets & sweet-meats upon their Friers, and neighbouring Towns, whensoever they are minded to shew themselves in a publike feast. The Towne is very rich, & many _Indians_ in it that trade about the Country as the _Spaniards_ do. They have learned most trades befitting a Common-wealth, and practise and teach them within their Town. They want not any provision of fish or flesh, having for the one that great river joyning unto their Towne, and for the other many Estantia's (as they call them) or farmes abounding with cattell. In this Towne the Dominican Fryers bear all the sway, who have a rich and stately Cloister with another Church or Chappel subordinate unto it. The heat here is so great, that both Fryers and _Indians_ commonly wear a linnen towel about their necks to wipe off the constant swet from their laces, which maketh the Friers sit longer at their dinner then els they would do, for that at every bit they eate, and draught they drinke, they are faine to make a stop to wipe their dropping browes. Yet the evenings are fresh and cool, which are much made of there, and spent in the many walkes and gardins which joyne close unto the River side. Two or three leagues from the Towne, there are two _Ingenio's_ or Farmes of Sugar, the one belonging to the Cloister of the Dominicans of the City of _Chiapa_; the other unto the Cloister of this Towne, which containe neer two hundred Blackmores, besides many _Indians_, who are imployed in that constant worke of making Sugar for all the Country. Hereabouts are bread great store of Mules, and excellent horses for any service. The Towne of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, and all the Townes about it want nothing but a more temperate climate and cooler aire, and Wheat, which there cannot bee sowne, yet for _Spaniards_ and such as cannot live without it, it is brought from _Chiapa_ of the _Spaniards_ and from about _Comitlan_; yet this is not generally acknowledged a want by reason of the great plenty of _Maiz_ which all the Townes enjoy, and which is now more used both by _Spaniards_ and dainty toothed Fryers then bread of Wheat. Yet your poore _Spaniards_, and some _Indians_ who have got the trick of trading from them doe gaine not a little in bringing to these Townes bisquets of wheaten bread, which though it be dry and hard, yet because they are novelties to the _Indians_; they get by changing them for other commodities, especially of Cotton wooll, which here is more abounding then in the Valley of _Copanabastlau_.

Upon this Country of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_ bordereth the Province of _Zoques_, which is absolutely the richest part of _Chiapa_. This reacheth on the one side to _Tabasco_, and by the River named _Grijalva_ sendeth commonly the Commodities which are in it with safety unto St. _John de Ulhua_, or _Vera Cruz_. It trafiqueth also with the Country of _Jucatan_ by the Haven called _Puerto Real_, which lyeth betweene _Grijalva_ and _Jucatan_. Yet these two, the River of _Tabasco, alias Grijalva_, and _Puerto Real_, though they bee commodious to this Province of _Zoques_, yet they are causes of daily feares unto the _Spaniards_, who well know the weaknesse of them, and that if a forraine Nation should manfully thrust into that Country by any of these two wayes, they might so conquer all _Chiapa_, and from thence passe easily unto _Guatemala_. But the River of _Tabasco_ lying low, and being somewhat hot, and the Towns about it infested with many gnats, and the chiefest commodity there being but _Cacao_, have often discouraged both our _English_ and _Hollanders_, who have come up some part of the River, and minding more the foresaid reasons, then what was forward to bee had, have turned back, losing a rich Country and slighting an eternall name, for few and frivolous present difficulties. In this Province of _Zoques_, the Towns are not very bigge, yet they bee very rich; the chief Commodities are Silk and _Cochinill_; whereof the latter is held the best of _America_, and the store of it so great that no one Province alone exceeds it. Few _Indians_ there are who have not their Orchards planted with the trees whereon the worms breed which yeeld unto us that rich Commodity; not that the _Indians_ themselves esteem otherwise of it, then as they see the _Spaniards_ greedy after it, offering them mony for it, & forcing them to the preservation of it in those parts, which have proved most successeful for this kind. There is great store of silk in this Country, in so much that the _Indians_ make it their great Commodity to imploy their wives in working Towels with all colours of silk, which the _Spaniards_ buy, and send into _Spain_. It is rare to see what works those _Indian_ women will make in silk, such as might serve for Patterns and samplers to many School-mistresses in _England_. The people of this Country are witty, and ingenious, and faire of complexion; the Country towards _Tabasco_ is hot, but within in some places very cold. There is also plenty of _Maiz_, but no wheat; neither is there such plenty of Cattell as about _Chiapa_, but Fowles and Turkies as many as in other parts. The Province called _Zeldales_ lyeth behind this of the _Zoques_, from the North Sea within the continent, running up towards _Chiapa_, and reacheth in some parts neer to the borders of _Comitlan_ north-westward. South-eastward it joyns to such _Indians_ which as yet have not been conquered by the _Spaniards_, who make many invasions upon the Christian _Indians_, and burn their Towns, and carry away their Cattell. The chief and head Town in this Province is called _Ococingo_, which is a Frontier against those Heathens. This Province is esteemed rich for the _Spaniards_, who make much of _Cacao_, which serveth to make their drink of _Chocolatte_, and here is great store of it. There is also another Commodity, great among the _Spaniards_, called _Achiotte_, wherewith they make their _Chocolatte_ looke of the colour of a brick. Here is also plenty of Hogs and Bacon, Fowles, Turkies, Quailes, Cattell, Sheep, Maiz, Hony, and not farre from _Ococingo_, in my time was setting up an _Ingenio_, or Farm of Sugar, which was thought would prove as well as those about _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_. The Country in most parts is high and hilly; but _Ococingo_ stands in a pleasant Valley, injoying many Brookes and streams of fresh water, and therefore hath been thought a fit place for Sugar. Here also in this Valley the fryers have attempted to sow Wheat, which hath proved very good. Thus Reader, I have shewed you the Country of _Chiapa_, which as it is compassed about on the one side by _Soconuzco_, and from thence almost to _Guatemala_, by the Province of _Suchutepeques_, on the other side by _Tabasco_, and on the other side by _Zeldales_ with excessive plenty of _Cacao_ and _Achiotte_, which are the chief drugs for the making of _Chocolatte_; I wil yet before I depart from _Chiapa_ to _Guatemala_, say somewhat of that drinke so much used by the _Spaniards_, and in my judgment not to be sleighted, but rather to bee published and made known to all Nations, whose use might remedy the great abuse of wines and strong drinks which too much are esteemed amongst us here in _Europe_.

CHAP. XVI.

_Concerning two daily and common Drinkes, or Potions much used in the_ India's, _called Chocolatte, and Atolle._

Chocolatte being this day used not onely over all the _West-India's_, but also in _Spain, Italy_, and _Flanders_, with approbation of many learned Doctors in Physick, among whom _Antonio Colmenero_ of _Ledesma_; (who lived once in the _India's_) hath composed a learned and curious Treatise concerning the nature and quality of this drink; I thought fit to insert here also somewhat of it concerning my own experience for the space of twelve yeers. This name Chocolatte is an _Indian_ name, and is compounded from Atte, as some say or as others, Atle, which in the _Mexican_ language signifieth water, & from the sound which the water (wherein is put the Chocolatte) makes, as Choco, Choco, Choco, when it is stirred in a cup by an instrument called a Molinet, or Molinillo, untill it bubble and rise unto a froath. And as there it is a name compounded, so in _English_ wee may well call it a compounded or a confectioned drink wherein are found many and severall Ingredients, according to the different disposition of the body of them that use it. But the chief Ingredient (without which it cannot be made) is called Cacao, a kind of nut or kernell bigger then a great Almond, which growes upon a tree called the tree of Cacao, and ripens in a great huske, wherein sometimes are found more, sometimes lesse Cacao's, sometimes twenty, sometimes thirty, nay forty, and above. This Cacao, though as every simple, it containes the quality of the foure Elements, yet in the common opinion of most Physitians, it is held to bee cold and dry, _a prædominio_; It is also in the substance that rules these two qualities, restringent and obstructive, of the nature of the Element of the earth. And as it is thus a mixed, and not a simple Element, it hath parts correspondent to the rest of the Elements; and particularly it partakes of those which correspond with the Element of Aire, that is, heat and moisture, which are governed by unctious parts; there being drawn out of the Cacao much Butter, which in the _India's_ I have seen drawn out of it by the Criolian women for to oint their faces. And let not this seeme impossible to believe, that this graine or nut of Cacao should bee said to bee first cold and dry, and then hot and moist; for though experience bee a thousand witnesses, yet instances will further clear this truth; and first in the Rubarbe, which hath in it hot and soluble parts, and parts which are binding, cold and dry, which have a virtue to strengthen, bind and stop the loosenesse of the belly. Secondly, wee see this cleerly in the steel, which having so much of the nature of the earth, as being heavy, thick, cold, and dry, should be thought unproper for the curing of Oppilations, but rather to bee apt to increase them; and yet it is given for a proper remedy against them. The authority of _Galen_ may further cleare this in the third booke of the Qualities of simples, where hee teacheth that almost all those medicines, which to our sense seeme to be simple, are notwithstanding naturally compounded, containing in themselves contrary qualities, that is to say, a quality to expell, and to retaine, to incrassate and to extenuate, to rarifie and to condense. And in the fifteenth Chapter following in the same booke, he puts an example of the broth of a Cock, which moves the belly, and the flesh hath the virtue to binde. Yet further that this differing virtue and quality is found in divers substances, or parts of simple medicaments, he shewes in the first book of his simple medicines in the seventeenth Chapter, bringing the example of milke, in which three substances are found and separated, that is to say, the substance of cheese, which hath the virtue to stop the fluxe of the belly; and the substance of whay, which is purging, and butter, as it is expressed Chap. 15. Also we find in wine which is in the Must, three substances, that is to say, earth, which is the chiefe; and a thinner substance, which is the flower, and may be called the scum, or froath; and a third substance which we properly call wine; and every one of these substances containes in it selfe divers qualities and virtues, in the colour, in the smell, and in other accidents.

And this is very comformable to reason, if we consider that every aliment, be it never so simple, begets and produceth in the liver four humours, not only differing in temper, but also in substance; and begets more or lesse of that humour, according as the aliment hath more or fewer parts corresponding to the substance of that humour, which is most ingendred. From which examples we may gather that when the Cacao is grinded and stirred, the divers parts, which nature hath given it, doe artificially and intimately mixe themselves one with another; and so the unctuous, warme, and moist parts, mingled with the earthy represseth, and leaveth them not so binding, as they were before; but rather with a mediocrity, more inclining to the warme, and moist temper of the aire, then to the cold and dry of the earth; as it doth appear, when it is made fit to drink, that scarce two turnes are given with the Molinet, when there ariseth a fatty scum, by which is seen, how much it partaketh of the oyly part. So that from all that hath been said, the error of those is wel discovered, who speaking of this drink of Chocolatte, say, that it causeth oppilations, because Cacao is astringent; as if that astriction were not corrected and modified by the intimate mixing of one part with another, by meanes of the grinding, as is said before. Besides it having so many ingredients, which are naturally hot, it must of necessity have this effect, that is to say, to open, attenuate, and not to binde. And leaving aside more reasons, this truth is evidently seen in the Cacao it selfe; which if it be not stirred, grinded and compounded to make the Chocolatte; but be eaten as it is in the fruit (as many Criolian and _Indian_ women eat it) it doth notably obstruct and cause stoppings, and make them looke of a broken, pale and earthy colour, as doe those that eat earthen ware, as pots, or pieces of lime-walls (which is much used among the _Spanish_ women thinking that pale and earthy colour, though with obstructions and stoppings, well becomes them) and for this certainly in the Cacao thus eaten there is no other reason, but that the divers substances which it containes, are not perfectly mingled by the mastication onely, but require the artificiall mixture, which wee have spoken of before.

The tree which doth beare this fruit, is so delicate, and the earth where it groweth so extream hot, that to keep the tree from being consumed by the sunne, they first plant other trees, which they call, _las Madres del Cacao_, mothers of the Cacao; and when these are grown up to a good height fit to shade the Cacao trees, then they plant the Cacaotals, or the trees of Cacao; that when they first shew themselves above the ground, those trees, which are already grown may shelter them, and as mothers nourish, defend, and shadow them from the sunne; and the fruit doth not grow naked, but many of them (as I have said before) are in one great huske or cod, and therein besides every grain is closed up in a white juicy skin, which the women also love to suck off from the Cacao, finding it coole, and in the mouth dissolving into water. There are two sorts of Cacao; the one is common, which is of a darke colour inclining towards red, being round and peeked at the ends; the other is broader, and bigger, and flatter, and not so round, which they call, Patlaxte, and this is white, and more drying, and is sold a great deal cheaper then the former. And this especially, more then the other, causeth watchfullnesse, and drives away sleep, and therefore is not so usefull as the ordinary, and is chiefly spent by the ordinary and meaner sort of people. As for the rest of the ingredients which make this Chocolatticall confection, there is notable variety; for some put into it black Pepper, which is not well approved of by the Physitians, because it is so hot and dry, but onely for one who hath a very cold liver; but commonly instead of this Pepper, they put into it long red Pepper, called Chile, which though it be hot in the mouth, yet is cool and moist in the operation. It is further compounded with white Sugar, Cinnamon, Clove, Anniseed, Almonds, Hasell-nuts, _Orejuela, Bainilla, Sapayoll_, Orenge flower water, some Muske, and as much of Achiotte, as will make it looke of the colour of a red bricke. But how much of each of these may be applyed to such a quantity of Cacao, the severall dispositions of mens bodies must be their rule. The ordinary receipt of _Antonio Colmenero_ was this; To every hundred Cacao's, two cods of Chile, called long red Pepper, one handfull of Anniseed and _Orejuela's_, and two of the flowers called _Mechasuchil_, or _Bainilla_, or instead of this six roses of _Alexandria_, beat to powder, two drams of Cinnamon, of Almonds and Hasel-nuts, of each one dozen; of white Sugar halfe a pound, of Achiotte, enough to give it the colour. This Author thought neither Clove, nor Musk, nor any sweet water fit, but in the _India's_ they are much used. Others use to put in Maiz, or _Paniso_, which is very windy; but such doe it onely for their profit, by increasing the quantity of the Chocolatte; because every fanega or measure of Maiz containing about a bushel and a half, is sold for eight shillings, and they that sell Chocolatte, sell it for four shillings a pound, which is the ordinary price. The Cinnamon is held one of the best ingredients, and denied by none, for that it is hot and dry in the third degree, it provokes urine, and helpes the kidneys and reines of those who are troubled with cold diseases, and it is good for the eyes, and in effect it is cordiall, as appeareth by the Author of these verses,

_Commoda & urinæ Cinamomum & renibus affert,
Lumina clarificat, dira venena fugat._