Chapter I: shall faithfully commend unto the Presse (4)

On the North side of _Guatemala_ I shall not need to adde to what hath been said of _Suchutepeques_ and _Soconuzco_, and my journy that way from _Mexico_ and _Chiapa_. The chiefe side of _Guatemala_ is that on the East, which points out the way to the Golfe, or _Golfo dulce_, or as others call it _St. Thomas de Castilia_. This way is more beaten by Mules and Travellers, then that on the North side, for that _Mexico_ standeth three hundred leagues from this City, and the Golfe but threescore, and no such passages as are in some places in the Rode to _Mexico_. Besides the great trading, commerce, and traffique, which this City injoyeth by that Golfe from _Spaine_, hath made that rode exceed all the rest. In _July_ or at furthest in the beginning of _August_ come into that Golfe three ships, or two, and frigate, and unlade what they have brought from _Spain_ in _Bodega's_ or great Lodges, built on purpose to keep dry and from the weather the commodities. They presently make hast to lade againe from _Guatemala_ those Merchants commodities of returne, which peradventure have lien waiting for them in the _Bodega's_ two or three moneths before the ships arrivall. So that these three moneths of _July, August_ and _September_, there is sure to be found a great treasure. And O the simplicity or security of the _Spaniards_, who appoint no other watch over these their riches, save only one or two _Indians_ and as many _Mulatto's_, who commonly are such as have for their misdemeanours been condemned to live in that old and ruinated Castle of _S. Thomas de Castilia_! True it is, above it there is a little and ragged Town of _Indians_, called _S. Pedro_, consisting of some thirty families, who by reason of the exceeding heat, and unhealthinesse of the air, are alwaies sickly and scarce able to stand upon their legs. But the weakenesse of this Golfe within might well bee remedied and supplyed at the mouth of the sea, or entrance into it by one or two at the most good peeces of Ordnance placed there. For the entrance into this Golfe is but as one should come in at the doore of some great Palace, where although the dore and entrance be narrow, the house within is wide and capacious. Such is this Golfe, whose entrance is straitned with two rocks or mountaines on each side (which would well become two great Peeces, and so scorne a whole fleet, and secure a Kingdome of _Guatemala_, nay most of all _America_) but here being no watch nor defence, the ships come freely and safely in (as have done some both _English_ and _Holland_ ships) and being entred find a rode and harbour so wide and capacious as may well secure a thousand ships there riding at anchor, without any thought of feare from _St. Pedro_, or _Santo Thomas de Castilia_. I have often heard the _Spaniards_ jear and laugh at the _English_ and _Hollanders_, for that they having come into this Golfe, have gone away without attempting any thing further upon the land. Nay while I lived there, the _Hollanders_ set upon _Truxillo_ the head Port of _Comayagua_ and _Honduras_, and tooke it (though there were some resistance) the people for the most part flying to the woods, trusting more to their feet then to their hands and weapons (such cowards is all that Countrey full of) and whilst they might have fortified themselves there and gone into the Countrey, or fortifying that have come on to the Golfe (all _Guatemala_ fearing it much and not being able to resist them) they left _Truxillo_ contenting themselves with a small pillage, and gave occasion to the _Spaniards_ to rejoyce and to make processions of thanksgiving for their safe deliverance out of their enemies hands.

The way from this Golfe to _Guatemala_ is not so bad as some report and conceive, especially after _Michaelmas_ untill _May_, when the winter and rain is past and gone, and the winds begin to dry up the waies. For in the worst of the yeer Mules laden with four hundred waight at least goe easily thorow the steepest, deepest, and most dangerous passages of the mountaines that lie about this Golfe. And though the waies are at that time of the yeer bad, yet they are so beaten with the Mules, and so wide and open, that one bad step and passage may be avoided for a better; and the worst of this way continues but fifteen leagues, there being Rancho's, or Lodges in the way, Cattel and Mules also among the woods and mountaines, for reliefe and comfort to a weary Traveller. What the _Spaniards_ most feare untill they come out of these mountaines, are some two or three hundred _Black-mores, Simarrones_, who for too much hard usage, have fled away from _Guatemala_ and other parts from their Masters unto these woods, and there live and bring up their children and encrease daily, so that all the power of _Guatemala_, nay all the Countrey about (having often attempted it) is not able to bring them under subjection. These often come out to the rode way, and set upon the Requa's of Mules, and take of Wine, Iron, clothing and weapons from them as much as they need, without doing any harme unto the people, or slaves that goe with the Mules; but rather these rejoyce with them, being of one colour, and subject to slavery and misery which the others have shaken off; by whose example and encouragement many of these also shake off their misery, and joyne with them to enjoy libertie, though it be but in the woods and mountaines. Their weapons are bowes and arrows which they use and carry about them, onely to defend themselves, if the _Spaniards_ set upon them; else they use them not against the _Spaniards_, who travell quietly and give them part of what provision they carry. These have often said that the chiefe cause of their flying to those mountaines is to be in a readinesse to joyne with the _English_ or _Hollanders_, if ever they land in that Golfe; for they know, from them they may injoy that liberty which the _Spaniards_ will never grant unto them. After the first fifteen leagues the way is better, and there are little Towns and villages of _Indians_, who relieve with provision both man and beast. Fifteen leagues further is a great Town of _Indians_, called _Acasabastlan_, standing upon a river, which for fish is held the best all that Country. Though here are many sorts, yet above all there is one which they call Bobo, a thick round fish as long or longer then a mans arme, with onely a middle bone, as white as milke, at fat as butter, and good to boil, fry, stew or bake. There is also from hence most of the way to _Guatemala_ in brooks and shallow rivers, one of the best sort of fishes in the world, which the _Spaniards_ judge to be a kind of Trout, it is called there Tepemechin, the fat whereof resembles veal more than fish.

This Towne of _Acasabastlan_ is governed by a _Spaniard_ who is called Corrigidor; his power extendeth no farther then to the Golfe, and to those Townes in the way. This Governour hath often attempted to bring in those _Simarrones_ from the mountaines, but could never prevaile against them. All the strength of this place may bee some twenty muskets (for so many _Spanish_ houses there may bee in the Towne) and some few _Indians_ that use bowes and arrowes, for the defence of the Town against the _Blackmore Simarrones_.

About _Acasabastlan_, there are many Estancia's of Cattell and Mules, much Cacao, Achiotte, and drugs for Chocolatte; There is also Apothecary drugs, as _Zarzaparilla_, and _Canna fistula_, and in the Town as much variety of fruits and gardens, as in any one _Indian_ Town in the Country; But above all _Acasabastlan_, is farre known, and much esteemed of in the City of _Guatemala_, for excellent Muskmillians, some small, some bigger then a mans head, wherewith the _Indians_ load their mules and carry them to sell all over the Country. From hence to _Guatemala_, there are but thirty short leagues, and though some hills there be, ascents and descent, yet nothing troublesome to man or beast. Among these Mountaines there have beene discovered some mines of metall, which the _Spaniards_ have begun to digge, and finding that they have been some of Copper, and some of iron, they have let them alone, judgeing them more chargeable then profitable. But greater profit have the _Spaniards_ lost, then of iron and copper, for using the poore _Indians_ too hardly, and that in this way, from _Acasabastlan_ to _Guatemala_, especially about a place called, _el Agua Caliente_, the hot water, where is a River, out of which in some places formerly the _Indians_ found such store of gold, that they were charged by the _Spaniards_ with a yeerly tribute of gold. But the _Spaniards_ being like _Valdivia_ in _Chille_, too greedy after it, murthering the _Indians_ for not discovering unto them whereabout this treasure lay, have lost both treasure and _Indians_ also. Yet unto this day search is made about the Mountaines, the River, and the sands for the hidden treasure, which peradventure by Gods order and appointment, doth and shall lie hide, and kept for a people better knowing and honouring their God. At this place called _el Agua Caliente_, or the hot water, liveth a Blackmore in an Estancia of his own, who is held to be very rich, and gives good entertainement to the Travellers that passe that way; he is rich in Cattell, Sheep, and Goates, and from his Farm stores _Guatemala_ and the people thereabout with the best Cheese of all that Country. But his riches are thought not so much to increase from his Farm and cheeses, but from this hidden treasure, which credibly is reported to be known unto him. He hath been questioned about it in the Chancery of _Guatemala_, but hath denyed often any such treasure to be known unto him. The jealousie and suspicion of him, is, for that formerly having been a slave, hee bought his freedome with great summes of money, and since hee hath been free, hath bought that farm and much land lying to it, and hath exceedingly increased his stock; To which hee answereth, that when hee was young and a slave, hee had a good Master, who let him get for himself what hee could, and that hee playing the good husband, gathered as much as would buy his liberty, and at first a little house to live in, to the which God hath since given a blessing with a greater increase of stock. From this hot water three or foure leagues, there is another River called, _Rio de las Vaccas_, or the River of _Cowes_, where are a company of poore and country people most of them Mestizo's, and Mulatto's, who live in thatched houses, with some small stock of Cattell, spending their time also in searching for sands of Gold, hoping that one day by their diligent search they and their children, and all their Country shall bee inriched, and that _Rio de las Vaccas_, shall parallel _Pactolus_, and stirre up the wits of Poets to speak of it as much as ever they have spoke of that. From this River is presently discovered the pleasantest valley in all that Country, (where my selfe did live at least five yeers) called the Valley of _Mixco_, and _Pinola_, lying six leagues from _Guatemala_, being fifteen miles in length, and ten or twelve in breadth; Out of the inclosures this Valley is stored with sheep; the ground inclosed is divided into many Farmes, where groweth better wheat then any in the Country of _Mexico_. From this Valley the city is well provided of wheat, and Bisket is made for the ships that come every yeere unto the Golf. It is called the Valley of _Mixco_, and _Pinola_ from two Townes of _Indians_, so called, standing opposite the one to the other on each side of the Valley, _Pinola_, on the left side from _Rio de las Vaccas_, and _Mixco_ on the right. Here do live many rich Farmers, but yet Country and clownish people, who know more of breaking clods of earth, then of managing Armes offensive or defensive. But among them I must not forget one friend of mine, called _Juan Palomeque_, whom I should have more esteemed of then I did if I could have prevailed with him to have made him live more like a man then a beast, more like a free man then a bond slave to his gold and silver. This man had in my time three hundred lusty mules trained up in the way of the Golf, which hee divided into six Requa's, or companies, and for them he kept above a hundred _Black-more_ slaves, men, women, and children, who lived neer _Mixco_ in severall thatched cottages. The house he lived in himselfe was but a poore thatched house, wherein he tooke more delight to live then in other houses which he had in _Guatemala_, for there hee lived like a wilde _Simarron_ among his slaves and _Black-mores_, whereas in the City he should have lived civilly; there he lived with milke, curds, and blacke, hard and mouldy bisket, and with a dry tassajo, which is dry salted beefe cut out in thinne slices, and dryed in the sun and wind, till there be little substance left in it, such as his slaves were wont to cary to the Golfe for their provision by the way, whereas if he had lived in the City, he must have eat for his credit what others of worth did eat. But the miser knew well, which was the best way to save, and so chose a field for a City, a cottage for a house, company of _Simarrones_ and _Black-mores_ for Citizens, and yet he was thought to be worth six hundred thousand duckats. He was the undoer of all others who dealed with Mules for bringing and carrying commodities to the Golfe for the Merchants; for he having lusty Mules, lusty slaves, would set the price or rate for the hundred weight so, as he might get, but others at that rate hiring _Indians_ and servants to goe with their Mules, might lose. He was so cruell to his _Black-mores_, that if any were untoward, he would torment them almost to death; amongst whom he had one slave called _Macaco_ (for whom I have often interceded, but to little purpose) whom he would often hang up by the armes, and whip him till the blood ran about his back, and then his flesh being torne, mangled, and all in a goar blood, he would for last cure powre boyling grease upon it; he had marked him for a slave with burning irons upon his face, his hands, his armes, his back, his belly, his thighes, his legs, that the poor slave was weary of life, and I thinke would two or three times have hanged himselfe, if I had not counselled him to the contrary. He was so sensuall and carnall that he would use his own slaves wives at his pleasure; nay when he met in the City any of that kind handsome and to his liking, if she would not yeeld to his desire, he would goe to her master or mistresse, and buy her, offering far more then she was worth, boasting that he would pull downe her proud and haughty lookes, with one yeers slavery under him. He killed in my time two _Indians_ in the way to the Golfe, and with his mony came off, as if he had killed but a dog. He would never marry, because his slaves supplyed the bed of a wife, and none of his neighbours durst say him nay; whereby he hasted to fill that valley with bastards of all sorts and colours, by whom, when that rich miser dieth, all his wealth and treasure is like to be consumed.

Besides the two Townes which denominate this valley, there standeth at the East end of it close by the _Rio de las Vaccas_ an Ermitage, called _Nostra Sennora del Carmel_, or our Lady of _Carmel_, which is the Parish Church to all those severall farmes of _Spaniards_ living in the valley; though true it is, most constantly they doe resort unto the _Indian_ Townes to Masse, and in _Mixco_ especially, the _Spaniards_ have a rich sodality of our Lady of the Rosary, and the _Black-mores_ another. In all the valley there may be between fourty and fifty _Spanish_ farmes or houses belonging to the Ermitage, and in all these houses, some three hundred slaves, men and women, _Black-mores_ and _Mulatto's. Mixco_ is a town of three hundred families, but in it nothing considerable, but the riches belonging unto the two forenamed Sodalities, and some rich _Indians_, who have learned of the _Spaniards_ to break clods of earth, and to sow wheat, and to traffique with Mules unto the Golfe. Besides what fowles and great store of Turkeys which in this Towne are bred, there is a constant slaughter house, where meat is sold to the _Indians_ within, and to the farmes without, and provision is made for all the Requa's and slaves that go to the Golfe with their masters Mules. Besides the six Requa's before named of _Juan Palomeque_, there are in this valley four brothers, named _Don Gaspar, Don Diego, Don Thomas, Don Juan de Colindres_, who have each of them a Requa of threescore Mules (though few slaves, and onely hired _Indians_ to goe with them) to traffique to the Golfe, and over all the Country as far as _Mexico_ sometimes. Yet besides these there are some six more Requa's belonging to other farms, which with those of the Towne of _Mixco_ may make up full twenty Requa's; and those twenty Requa's containe above a thousand Mules, which only from this valley are imployed to all parts of the Country by the rich Merchants of _Guatemala_. But to returne againe to the Towne of _Mixco_, the constant passage thorow it of these Requa's, of rich Merchants, of all passengers that goe and come from _Spain_, hath made it very rich; whereas in the Town it self there is no other commodity, except it be a kind of earth, whereof are made rare and excellent pots for water, pans, pipkins, platters, dishes, chafing-dishes, warming-pans, wherein those _Indians_ shew much wit, and paint them with red, white, and severall mingled colours, and sell them to _Guatemala_, and the Towns about, which some Criolian women will eat by full mouth fulls, endangering their health and lives, so that by this earthly ware they may looke white and pale. The Towne of _Pinola_ in bignesse is much like unto _Mixco_, but a far pleasanter Town, more healthy and better seated, standing upon a plain, whereas _Mixco_ stands on the side on a hill, which carrieth the Travellers quite out of the sight of the valley. In _Pinola_ there is also a slaughter house, where beef is dayly sold, there is plenty of fowles, Fruits, Maiz, Wheat, (though not altogether so bright as that of _Mixco_) hony, and the best water thereabouts; it is called in the _Indian_ tongue _Panac_, (some say) from a fruit of that name which is very abundant there. On the North and South side of this valley are hils, which are most sown with wheat, which proveth better there then in the low valley. At the West end of it, stand two greater Townes then _Mixco_ and _Pinola_, named _Petapa_, and _Amatitlan_, to the which there are in the midst of the valley some descents and ascents, which they call Baranca's or bottomes, where are pleasant streames and fountaines, and good feeding for sheep, and Cattel.

_Petapa_ is a Towne of at least five hundred inhabitants very rich, who suffer also some _Spaniards_ to dwell amongst them, from whom also those _Indians_ have learned to live and thrive in the world. This Towne is the passage from _Comayagua, St. Salvador, Nicaragua_, and _Costa Rica_, and hath got great wealth by the constant goers and comers. It is esteemed one of the pleasantest Townes belonging unto _Guatemala_, for a great Lake of fresh water neer unto it, which is full of fish, especially crabs, and a fish called, Mojarra, which is much like unto a mullet (though not altogether so big) and eateth like it. In this Towne there is a certaine number of _Indians_ appointed, who are to fish for the City, and on Wednesdayes, Fridayes, and Saturdayes, are bound to carry such a quantity to _Guatemala_, of Crabs and Mojarra's, as the Corregidor and Regidores, Major and Aldermen (who are but eight) shall command weekly to be brought.

This Towne _Petapa_ is so called from two _Indian_ words, _Petap_, which signifieth a Mat, and _ha_, which signifieth water, and a Mat being the chiefe part of an _Indians_ bed, it is as much as to say a bed of water, from the smoothnesse, plainnesse, and calmnesse of the water of the Lake. There liveth in it a principall family of _Indians_, who are said to descend from the ancient Kings of those parts, and now by the _Spaniards_ are graced with the noble name of _Guzman_; out of this family is chosen one to be Governour of the Towne with subordination unto the City and Chancery of _Guatemala. Don Bernabe de Guzman_ was Governour in my time, and had been many yeers before, and governed very wisely and discreetly, till with old age he came to loose his sight; and in his place entred his son _Don Pedro de Guzman_, of whom the rest of the _Indians_ stood in great awe, as formerly they had to his father. Had not these _Indians_ been given to drunkennesse (as most _Indians_ are) they might have governed a Town of _Spaniards_. This Governour hath many priviledges granted unto him (though none to weare a sword, or rapier, as may the Governour of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_) and appoints by turnes some of the Towne to wait and attend on him at dinner and supper, others to looke to his Horses, others to fish for him, others to bring him wood for his house spending, others to bring him meat for his Horses; and yet after all this his attendance, he attends and waits on the Frier that lives in the Towne, and doth nothing concerning the governing of the Towne and executing of justice, but what the Frier alloweth and adviseth to be done. There is also great service appointed for this Frier, of Fishermen, and other attendants in his house, who liveth as stately as any Bishop. Most trades belonging to a well setled Common-wealth are here exercised by these _Indians_. As for herbage, and garden-fruits, and requisites, it hath whatsoever may be found, or desired in the City of _Guatemala_. The Church treasure is very great, there being many Sodalities of our Lady and other their Saints, which are enriched with crowns, and chains, and bracelets, besides the lamps, censers, & silver candlesticks belonging unto the Altars. Upon _Michaelmas_ day is the chief fair and feast of the Town, which is dedicated unto St. _Michael_, whither many Merchants resort from _Guatemala_ to buy and sell; in the afternoon, and the next day following, Bull-baiting is the common sport for that feast with some _Spaniards_ and _Blackmores_ on Horse-backe, and other _Indians_ on foot, who commonly being drunke, some venture, some lose their lives in the sport. Besides this generall concourse of people every yeer at that time, there is every day at five a clock in the afternoone a Tianguez or market, upheld by the concourse of the _Indians_ of the Town among themselves. Besides the lake, there runneth by this Town a river, which in places is easily waded over, and waters the fruits, gardens, and other plantations, and drives a mill which serves most of the valley to grind their wheat. Within a mile and a halfe of this Towne there is a rich Ingenio or farme of Sugar belonging to one _Sebastian de Savaletta_, a _Biscaine_ borne, who came at first very poore into that Country, and served one of his Country men; but with his good industry and paines, he began to get a Mule or two to traffique with about the Country, till at last he increased his stocke to a whole Requa of Mules, and from thence grew so rich that he bought much land about _Petapa_, which he found to be very fit for Sugar, and from thence was incouraged to build a princely house, whither the best of _Guatemala_ doe resort for their recreation. This man maketh a great deale of Sugar for the Country, and sends every yeer much to _Spaine_; he keepeth at least threescore slaves of his own for the worke of his farme, is very generous in house keeping, and is thought to be worth above five hundred thousand Duckats. Within halfe a mile from him there is another farme of Sugar, which is called but a _Trapiche_ belonging unto the Augustin Friers of _Guatemala_, which keepes some twenty slaves, and is called a _Trapiche_, for that it grinds not the Sugar Cane with that device of the Ingenio, but grinds a lesse quantity, and so makes not to much Sugar as doth an Ingenio. From hence three miles is the Town of _Amatitlan_, neer unto which standeth a greater Ingenio of Sugar, then is that of _Savaletta_, and is called the Ingenio of one _Anis_, because he first founded it, but now it belongeth unto one _Pedro Crespo_ the Post-master of _Guatemala_; this Ingenio seemeth to be a little Town by it selfe for the many cottages and thatched houses of _Blackmore_ slaves which belong unto it, who may be above a hundred, men, women, and children. The chiefe dwelling house is strong and capacious, and able to entertain a hundred lodgers. These three farmes of Sugar standing so neer unto _Guatemala_, enrich the City much, and occasion great trading from it to _Spaine_. The Town of _Amatitlan_, though in it there live not so many _Spaniards_ as in _Petapa_, yet there are in it more _Indian_ families then in _Petapa_. The streets are more orderly made and framed like a Chequer board, they are wide, broad, plain, and all upon dust and sand. This Towne also enjoyeth the commodity of the lake, and furnisheth with fish the City of _Guatemala_, upon those daies before named of _Petapa_. And though it standeth out of the rode-way, yet it is almost as rich as _Petapa_. For the _Indians_ of it get much by the concourse of common people, and the Gentry of _Guatemala_, who resort thither to certain bathes of hot waters, which are judged and approved very wholesome for the body. This Towne also getteth much by the salt which here is made, or rather gathered by the lake side, which every morning appeareth like a hoary frost upon the ground, and is taken up and purified by the _Indians_, and proves very white and good. Besides what they get by the salt, they get also by the Requa's of Mules in the valley, and about the Country, which are brought to feed upon that salt earth a day, or halfe a day, untill they be ready to burst (the owner paying six pence a day for every Mule) and it hath been found by experience, that this makes them thrive and grow lusty and purgeth them better then any drench, or blood-letting. They have further great trading in Cotton-wool, more abundance of fruits then _Petapa_, a fairer market place with two extraordinary great Elm-trees, under which the _Indians_ daily meet at evening to buy and sell. The Church of this Towne is as faire and beautifull as any about _Guatemala_, the riches and state whereof hath caused the Dominican Friers since the yeer 1635, to make that place the head and Priory over the other Townes of the valley, and to build there a goodly and sumptuous Cloister, in which in my time there was (for I told then most of it, and doubtlesse since it hath much increased) eight thousand Duckats laid up in a chest, with three lockes for the common expences of the Cloister. Thus my Reader, I have led thee through the valley of _Mixco_, and _Pinola, Petapa_ and _Amatitlan_, which in riches and wealth, what with the great trading in it, what with the sheep & cattell, what with the abundance of mules, what with three Farmes of Sugar, what with the great Farmes of Corn and Wheat, what with the churches treasures yeelds to no other place belonging unto the dominions of _Guatemala_. I may not forget yet a double wheat harvest (as I may well term it) in this Vally. The first being of a little kinde of Wheat, which they call _Trigo Tremesino_, a word compounded in _Spanish_ from these two words, _tres meses_, or from the Latin _tres menses_, which after three moneths sowing is ripe and ready to be cut down, and being sowed about the end of _August_, is commonly harvested in about the end of _November_; and although in the smalnesse of it, it seemes to have but a little Flower, yet it yeelds as much as their other sorts of Wheat, and makes as white bread, though it keep not so well as that which is made of other Wheat, but soone groweth stale and hard. The other harvest (which is of two sorts of Wheat, one called _Rubio_, or red Wheat, the other called _Blanquilleo_, or white like _Candia_ Wheat) followeth soon after this first of _Tremesino_, for presently after Christmas every one begins to bring their sickles into the field, where they doe not onely reap down their Wheat, but in stead of threshing it in barnes, they cause it to bee trod by Mares inclosed within floores made on purpose in the fields; and when the Wheat is trod out of the Eares by the Mares trampling, who are whipped round about the floores that they may not stand still, but tread it constantly and throughly; then the Mares being let out of the floores, the wheat is winnowed from the chaffe, and put up clean into sackes, and from the field carried to the Barnes; but the chaffe and most of the straw is left to rot in the fields, which they esteem as good as dunging; and further set all the fields on fire, burning the stubble that is left a little before the time of the first showers of raine, which with the ashes left after the burning fatteth the ground, and by them is held the best way to husband or dung their ground. Others that will sow a new and woody peece of land, cause the trees, though timber trees to bee cut down, and sell not a stick of that wood, (which there is so plentifull, that they judge it would not quit their cost to carry it to _Guatemala_, though in _England_ it would yeeld thousand pounds) but they let it lie and dry, and before the winter raine begins, they set on fire all the field, and burn that rich timber, with the ashes whereof that ground becomes so fat and fertile, that where upon an Aker wee sow here three bushels of Wheat, or upwards, they sow such ground so thin, that they scarce dare venture a full bushell upon an Aker, lest with too much spreading upon the ground it grow too thick, bee lodged, and they loose their crop. The like they doe unto the pasture of the Valley; about the end of _March_, it is short and withered and dry, and they also set it on fire, which being burnt causeth a dismall sight, and prospect of a black valley; but after the first two or three showres, it puts on againe its greene and pleasant garment, inviting the Cattell, Sheep, Lambs, Goats, and Kids, (which for a while were driven away to other pasturing) to return and sport againe, to feed and rest in its new flourishing bosome. But now it is time, I return again back to the other end of this valley, to the _Rio de las Vaccas_ (from whence I have viewed the compasse of it, and made my long digression from East to West, to the farthest Towne of _Amatitlan_) to shew thee, my Reader, the little part of thy way remaining unto _Guatemala_. True it is, from the Ermitage of our Lady, there is a streight way through the middle of the valley leading almost to _Amatitlan_, and then turning up a hill out of the valley on the right hand; But that hath many ascents and descents, bottomes, falls and risings, and therefore is not the constant Rode, which from the Ermitage pointeth on the right hand, observing the Towne of _Mixco_, standing but five miles from _Guatemala_, from _Mixco_ the way lyeth up a hill, and leadeth to a Town somewhat bigger then _Mixco_, of _Indians_ called _San Lucas_, or St. _Luke_, a cold Town, but exceeding rich; the temper and coldnesse of it, hath made it the storehouse, or Granary for all the City; for whereas below in the Valley; the Wheat will not keep long without musting, and breeding a worm called _Gurgojo_, such is the temper of this Town of St. _Luke_, that in it, the Wheat will keep two or three yeeres ready threshed, with a little turning now and then; and as it lyeth will give and yeeld, (as experience taught mee there) so that he that hath laid up in that Town two hundred bushels of Wheat, at the yeers end shall find neer upon two hundred and twenty bushels. This Towne therefore receives from the Valley most of the harvest, and is full of what wee call Barnes, but there are called _Trojas_, without floore, but raised up with stackes and bords a foot or two from the ground, and covered with mats, whereon is laid the Wheat, and by some rich Monopolists from the City is kept and hoarded two and three yeers, untill they find their best opportunity to bring it out to sale, at the rate of their own will and pleasure. From hence to _Guatemala_ there is but three little leagues, and one onely _Barranca_, or bottome, and on every side of the way little petty Townes, which they call _Milpas_, consisting of some twenty Cottages. In the middle of the way is the top of a hill, which discovereth all the City, and standeth as overmastring of it, as if with a peece or two of Ordnance it would keepe all _Guatemala_ in awe; But besides this hill, which is the wide and open Rode, there stand yet forwarder on the right and left hand other mountaines which draw neerer to the City, and what this top peradventure with too much distance, is not able to doe or reach, the others certainly would reach with Cannon shot, and command that farre commanding City. Downe this hill the way lies broad and wide, and as open as is the way downe _Barnet_ or _Highgate_ Hill; and at the bottome it is more straitned betweene the Mountaines, for the space of a bowshot, which passage also is craggy by reason of stones and some small peeces of rocks which lie in a brook of water that descends from the Mountaines, and runs towards the City. But at a little Ermitage called St. _John_, the way opens againe itselfe, and sheweth _Guatemala_, welcoming the weary travellers with a pleasant prospect, and easing theirs, or their mules or horses feet, what with green walkes, what with a sandy and gravelly Rode unto the City, which never shut gate against any goer or comer, nor forbad their entrance with any fenced walls, or watchmens jealous questions, but freely and gladly entertaines them either by the back side of the Dominicans Cloister, or by the Church and Nunnery called the Conception. And thus my Reader, and country man I have brought and guided thee from the Golfe unto _Guatemala_, shewing what that way is most remarkable. I shall not now shew thee any more of this Cities Dominions toward _Nicaragua_ and the South (having already shewed thee the way as far as _Realejo_) leaving that untill I come to tell thee of my journey homewards, which I made that way. There remaines yet the Country of the _Vera Paz_ and the way unto it to discover, and so to close up this Chapter. The _Vera Paz_ is so called, for that the _Indians_ of that Country hearing how the _Spaniards_ had conquered _Guatemala_, and did conquer the Country round about, wheresoever they came, yeelded themselves peaceably and without any resistance unto the Government of _Spaine_. This Country formerly had a Bishop to it selfe distinct from _Guatemala_, but now is made one Bishoprick with that. It is governed by an Alcalde Maior, or high Justice sent from _Spain_, with subordination unto the Court of _Guatemala_. The head or shire Town of it, is called _Coban_, where is a Cloister of Dominican Friers, and the common place of Residence of the Alcalde Maior. All this Country as yet is not subdued by the _Spaniards_, who have now and then some strong encounters with the barbarous and heathen people, which lie between this Country and _Jucatan_; and faine would the _Spaniards_ conquer them, that they might make way through them unto a Town called _Campin_ belonging to _Jucatan_, and settle commerce, and Traffique by land with that Country, which is thought would bee a great furtherance to the Country and City of _Guatemala_, and a safer way to convey their goods to the Havana, then by the Golf, for oftentimes the ships that goe from the Golf to the Havana, are met with by the _Hollanders_ and surprised. But as yet the _Spaniards_ have not been able to bring to passe this their design, by reason they have found strong resistance from the heathenish people, and a hot service to attempt the conquering of them. Yet there was a Fryer a great acquaintance of mine, called Fryer _Francisco Moran_, who ventured his life among those barbarians, and with two or three _Indians_ went on foot through that Country, untill he came unto _Campin_, where he found a few _Spaniards_, who wondred at his courage and boldnesse in comming that way. This Fryer came back again to _Coban_ and _Vera Paz_, relating how the barbarians hearing him speake their language, and finding him kind, loving and curteous to them, used him also kindly, fearing (as hee said) that if they should kill him, the _Spaniards_ would never let them bee at rest and quiet, untill they had utterly destroyed them. Hee related when he came back, that the Country which the Barbarians inhabite, is better then any part of the _Vera Paz_, which is subject to the _Spaniards_, and spoke much of a Valley, where is a great lake, and about it a Towne of _Indians_, which hee judged to bee of at least twelve thousand Inhabitants, the Cottages lying in a distance one from another. This Fryer hath writ of this Country, and hath gone to _Spain_ to the Court to motion the conquering of it, for the profit and commodity that may ensue both to _Guatemala_ and _Jucatan_, if a way were opened thither. But though as yet on that side the _Spaniards_ and the Country of the _Vera Paz_, bee straightned by that heathenish people, yet on the other side it hath free passage unto the Golf, and trade there when the ships doe come, carrying Fowles and what other Provision the Country will afford for the ships, and bringing from thence wines, and other _Spanish_ wares unto _Coban_. This Country is very hilly and craggy, and though there bee some bigge Townes in it, they are not above three or foure that are considerable. The chief commodities, are _Achiotte_ (which is the best of all the Country belonging to _Guatemala_) and _Cacao_, Cotton Wooll, hony, _Canna fistula_, and _Zarzaparilla_, great store of _Maiz_, but no Wheat, much waxe, plenty of fowles and birds of all coloured feathers, wherewith the _Indians_ make some curious works, but not like unto those of _Mechoacan_; here are also abundance of Parrets, Apes and Monkies which breed in the Mountaines. The way from _Guatemala_ to this Country is that which hitherto hath beene spoken of from the Golf, as far as the Town of St. _Luke_; and from thence the way keeps on the hils and mountaines which lie on the side of the Valley of _Mixco_. These hils are called _Sacatepeques_, (compounded of _Sacate_ and _Tepec_, the latter signifying a hill, and the former, herbe or grasse, and thus joyned, they signifie mountaines of grasse) and among them are these chief Townes, first _Santiago_ or St. _James_, a Town of five hundred Families, secondly, _San Pedro_ or St. _Peter_, consisting of six hundred families, thirdly, St. _Juan_, or St. _John_ consisting also of at least six hundred Families, and fourthly, _Sto Domingo Senano_, or St. _Dominic_ of _Senaco_, being of three hundred Families. These foure Towns are very rich, and the two last very cold, the two first are warmer; there are about them many Farmes of corn and good Wheat, besides the _Indian Maiz_. These _Indians_ are somewhat of more courage then those of other Townes, and in my time were like to rise up against the _Spaniards_ for their unmercifull tyranny over them. The Churches are exceeding rich; in the Towne of _Santiago_, there was living in my time one _Indian_, who for onely vaine-glory had bestowed the worth of six thousand Duckates upon that Church, and yet afterwards this wretch was found to bee a Wizard and Idolater. These _Indians_ get much mony by letting out great tuffes of feathers, which the _Indians_ use in their dances upon the feasts of the Dedication of their towns. For some of the great tuffes may have at least threescore long feathers of divers colours, for every feather hiring they have halfe a Riall, besides what price they set to every feather, if any should chance to be lost. From the Town of St. _John_, which is the furthest the way lies plain and pleasant unto a little village of some twenty Cottages, called St. _Raymundo_ or St. _Raymond_, from whence there is a good dayes journy up and down _Barrancas_, or bottomes unto a _Rancho_, or lodge standing by a River side, which is the same River, that passeth by the Town of _Acasabastlan_ spoken of before. From this is an ascent of a very craggy and rocky Mountaine, called the Mountaine of _Rabinall_, where are steps cut out in the very Rockes for the mules feet, and slipping on one or the other side, they fall surely downe the rockes, breaking their neckes, and mangling all their limbes and joynts; but this danger continueth not long nor extendeth above a league and a half, and in the top and worst of this danger, there is the comfort of a goodly Valley, called _El Valle de San Nicholas_, St. _Nicholas_ his Valley, from an Estancia called St. _Nicholas_ belonging to the Dominicans Cloister of _Coban_. This Valley though it must not compare with that of _Mixco_ and _Pinola_; yet next after it, it may well take place for onely three things considerable in it. The first is an _Ingenio_ of Sugar, called _San Geronymo_, or St. _Hierome_, belonging unto the Dominicans Cloister of _Guatemala_, which indeed goeth beyond that spoken of of _Amatitlan_, both for abundance of Sugar made there, and sent by mules to _Guatemala_ over that rocky Mountaine, and for multitude of slaves living in it under the command of two Fryers, and for the excellent horses bred there, which are incomparably the best of all the Country of _Guatemala_ for metle, and gallantry, and therefore (though mules are commonly used for burthens) are much desired and looked after by the Gallants and Gentry of the City, who make it a great part of their honour to prance about the streets. The second thing in this Valley is the Estancia or Farm of St. _Nicolas_ which is as famous for breeding of mules, as is St. _Hierome_ for horses. The third ornament to it is a Town of _Indians_, called _Rabinall_, of at least eight hundred Families, which hath all that heart can wish for pleasure and life of man. It inclineth rather to heat then cold, but the heat is moderate and much qualified with the many cool and shady walkes. There is not any _Indian_ fruit, which is not there to be found, besides the fruits of _Spain_, as Oranges, Lemmons, sweet and sowre, Citrons, Pomegranates, Grapes, Figs, Almonds, and Dates; the onely want of wheat is not a want to them that mind bread of wheat more then of Maiz, for in two dayes it is easily brought from the Townes of _Sacatepeques_. For flesh, it hath Beef, Mutton, Kid, Fowles, Turkies, Quailes, Partridges, Rabbets, Pheasants; and for fish, it hath a River running by the houses, which yeeldeth plenty both great and small. The _Indians_ of this Towne are much like unto those of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, for bravery, for feasting, for riding of horses, and shewing themselves in sports and pastimes. This Town my friend Fryer _John Baptist_, after hee had been Prior of many places, and especially of _Chiapa_ and _Guatemala_, chose to live in to injoy quietnesse, pleasure and content; and in this Town was I feasted by him in such a sumptuous, prodigall and lavishing way, as truely might make poor mendicant Fryers ashamed to come so neer unto Princes in vanity of life and dyet. From this Valley unto the _Vera Paz_, or _Coban_, the head Town of it, there is nothing considerable, save onely one Town more called St. _Christoval_ or St. _Christopher_, which enjoyeth now a pleasant Lake, and bottomelesse, as is reported. Formerly there being no Lake at all, in a great Earthquake, the earth there opened, and swallowed up many houses, leaving this Lake which ever since hath continued. From hence to _Coban_ the wayes are bad and mountainous, yet such as through the worst of them, those country mules with heavy burthens easily goe through. And thus with my pen, Reader, have I gone through most of the bounds and limits of _Guatemala_, which is more furnished with gallant Towns of _Indians_, then is any part of all _America_; and doubtlesse were the _Indians_ warlike, industrious, active for warre or weapons, no part in all _America_ might bee stronger in people then _Guatemala_. But they being kept under and oppressed by the _Spaniards_, and no weapons allowed them, not so much as their naturall Bowes and Arrowes, much lesse Guns, Pistols, Muskets, Swords, or Pikes, their courage is gone, their affections alienated from the _Spaniards_, and so the _Spaniards_ might very well feare, that if their country should be invaded, the multitude of their _Indian_ people, would prove to them a multitude of enemies, either running away to another side; or forced to help, would bee to them but as the help of so many flies.

CHAP. XIX.

_Shewing the condition, quality, fashion, and behaviour of the_ Indians _of the Country of_ Guatemala _since the Conquest, and especially of their feasts, and yeerly Solemnities._

The condition of the _Indians_ of this Country of _Guatemala_ is as sad, and as much to bee pitied as of any _Indians_ in _America_, for that I may say it is with them in some sort, as it was with _Israel_ in _Egypt_, of whom it is said, _Exod._ 1. 7. _They were fruitfull and increased abundantly, and multiplied, and waxed exceeding mighty, and the land was filled with them_, and therefore _Pharaoh_ said unto his people, Vers. 10. _Let us deale wisely with them, lest they multiply, and it come to passe, that when there falleth out any Warre, they joyne also unto our enemies, and fight against us_. Therefore they did set over them taskemasters, to afflict them with their burdens, and they made their lives bitter with bondage, in morter and in brick, and in all manner of service in the field; and all their service wherein they made them serve was with rigor. Though it is true, there ought not to be any comparison made betwixt the _Israelites_ and the _Indians_, those being Gods people, these not as yet; neverthelesse the comparison may well hold in the oppression of the one and the other, and in the manner and cause of the oppression, that being with bitternesse, rigour, and hard bondage, and lest they should multiply and increase too much. Certain it is, these _Indians_ suffer great oppression from the _Spaniards_, live in great bitternesse, are under hard bondage, and serve with great rigor; and al this, because they are at least a thousand of them for one _Spaniard_, they daily multiply and increase, in children and wealth, and therefore are feared lest they should be too mighty, and either rise up of themselves, or joyn themselves to any enemy against their oppressors; for both which fears and jealousies, they are not allowed the use of any weapons or armes, no not their bows and arrows, which their ancestors formerly used; so that as hereby the _Spaniards_ are secured from any hurt or annoyance from them as an unarmed people; so may any other nation, that shall be incouraged to invade that land, be secure also from the _Indians_, & consequently the _Spaniards_ own policy for themselves against the _Indians_ may be their greatest ruine, and destruction, being a great people and yet no people; for the abundance of their _Indians_ would be to them as no people; and they themselves, (who out of their few Towns and Cities live but here and there, too thinly scattered upon so great and capacious a land) would be but a handfull for any reasonable Army; and of that handfull very few would be found able or fitting men; and those able men would do little without the help of guns and ordnance; and if their own oppressed people, _Black-mores_ and _Indians_ (which themselves have alwaies feared) should side against them, soon would they be swallowed up both from within and from without. And by this it may easily appear how ungrounded they are, who say, it is harder to conquer _America_ now then in _Cortez_ his time, for that there are now both _Spaniards_ and _Indians_ to fight against, and then there were none but bare and naked _Indians_. This I say is a false ground; for then there were _Indians_ trained up in wars one against another, who knew wel to use their bows and arrows, and darts, and other weapons, and were desperate in their fights and single combats, as may appear out of the histories of them; but now they are cowardized, oppressed, unarmed, soon frighted with the noise of a musket, nay with a sowre and grim look of a _Spaniard_, so from them there is no fear; neither can there be from the _Spaniards_, who from all the vast dominions of _Guatemala_ are not able to raise five thousand able fighting men, nor to defend so many passages as lie open in severall parts of that Country, which the wider and greater it is, might be advantagious to an enemy, and while the _Spaniard_ in one place might oppose his strength, in many other places might his land be over-run by a foraine nation; nay by their owne slaves the _Black-mores_, who doubtlesse to be set at liberty would side against them in any such occasion; and lastly, the Criolians who also are sore oppressed by them, would rejoyce in such a day, and yeeld rather to live with freedome and liberty under a forain people, then to be longer oppressed by those of their own blood.