Chapter V (2)

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Procure a piece of strong insertion-work, 2½ nails long, and ⅔ of a nail deep.

In making it up, first hem the neck of the gown, and, at ¾ of a nail below the bosom, run the finest gathers possible, leaving a space of 1½ nail on each side, between the end of the gathers and the sleeve. The gown is again gathered across, about a nail below the first gathering, and then the insertion muslin is very neatly sewn on the gathers, with very small even stitches; the two bands are next stitched, one at each end of the insertion-work, and are rounded off at the ends. A narrow frill of lawn is put round the bosom. The sleeves are fulled at the top, and set in; they are either merely hemmed to admit a tape, and a lawn frill sewn on them, or are put into wristbands, which should button over. Instead of putting in insertion-work, some bias it at the waist, which is thought to make it wear better.

Fig. 14 represents the front, and Fig. 15 the back of the gown.

ANOTHER INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 16, 17.

The skirt of this pattern is cut out exactly like the one before mentioned, but is made up in a more simple manner. The gown, instead of being gathered in front, is left loose, and a strip of calico, ½ a nail deep, is sewn on in the inside, about ¾ of a nail deep from the bosom, and of such a length as to leave, on each side, but two nails space between it and the arm-holes. This piece of calico is to be used as a string-case, and two small slits for tape-holes must be cut in the gown, at about a ¼ of a nail distance, within each end of the strip. The tapes should be rather broad, and each, on being drawn by a bodkin through its slit, should be carried along the string-case and firmly fastened down to the opposite end, so that, on pulling the two strings, the gown is drawn up in neat gathers, forming a body. The sleeves are cut down the selvage instead of crosswise, and are nearly straight, the top being 4 nails wide, and the bottom or wrist, 2½ nails. A small frill may be put on the bosom and wrists; or, if it is a coloured gown for a poor child, a small runner to admit a bobbin, at the distance of the width of a narrow frill from the edge, will, on being drawn up, form a very neat frill both for the bosom and sleeves.

ANOTHER INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN.

This sort is only used by the poorer classes. It is made of coloured print or soft calico, and is cut out exactly after the pattern of the flannel bed-gown (see Plate 3, Fig. 4). The frills are formed by making runners near the edge of the neck and wrists.

INFANTS’ PINAFORES.

PLATE 3. FIG. 18.

Pinafores are made of diaper, Holland, linen, or print. The former are for ladies’ infants—the latter for the poor. The patterns vary according to sex and age. The one generally used at first is as follows:—

SCALE.

+---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+
| ———————— |First size.|Child of |Child of |
| | | 2 yrs. | 6 yrs. |
+---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length down selvage | 8 | 10 | 12 |
|Width of material | 11 | 14 | 15 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 2 | 2¾ | 2¾ |
|Piece left for shoulder | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ |
|Quantity hollowed out of neck | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ |
|Length of frill to each arm-hole | 10 or 11 | — | — |
|Depth of frill | ⅓ | ½ | ¾ |
|Distance from top for the second | | | |
| tape to be sewn on | 2 | 2¼ | 2½ |
|Size of gussets | ½ | ½ | ¾ |
+---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+

Procure your material exactly the proper width for the pinafore, to prevent waste. Alter cutting off the pieces of the proper length and width for the pinafores, take one piece and fold it down the middle, length-wise, in two; then again fold it, and cut the slits for the arm-holes by a thread. Pin it carefully together, still folded in four, whilst you hollow out the neck, leaving the proper space for the shoulders. Hem it at the top as you would a shift, by turning down the hem, and then turning it backwards, the more readily to hold it while you sew the hem firmly all round. The arm-holes should have narrow hems, and be very firmly sewed at the bottom, or they will tear. Whip and sew on the frills, hem the bottom, sew on the tapes, and the pinafore is completed. Some people put gussets in at the shoulder: and it is better to do so for elder children.

For further sizes, see School Girl’s Pinafore.

PINAFORE WITH LAPPETS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 19.

This shape is very much used by the poor, as it protects the sleeves. The pinafore is cut out exactly as in Fig. 18; but instead of putting on frills, little capes or lappets are substituted. These capes are cut width-way of the size, according to the Scale.

SCALE OF LAPPETS.

The cape is rounded off towards the ends, and, after being neatly hemmed, is whipped and sewn all round the arm-hole, making the ends come under the arm. In front, the pinafore is confined with a band, which is stitched firmly on in two places before, and which, passing round the waist, buttons behind.

THE WASTE-NOT PINAFORE.

PLATE 3. FIG. 20, 21.

This is a particularly simple shape, being cut without any waste whatever.

Divide the pinafore in four, and cut it according to the Plate.

SCALE.

Nails.
Width of material 12
Length of ditto 8
Space from A to B 1½
Space from B to C ¾
Space from C to D ¾

Cut from A to D, by which means a shoulder-flap is made, and, when on, the shoulder-piece is raised sufficiently to prevent the necessity of hollowing out the neck. A double plait should be sewn under the arm-hole (see Fig. 21, A). This cape, being plain, is improved by an edging of work, or a little braid, to add lightness to its appearance.

A BABY’S DRESS PINAFORE OR TIDY.

PLATE 3. FIG. 22.

Intended to be worn when the child’s frock is tumbled or untidy. It is made of cambric or jaconet muslin. There are two breadths in it of 14 nails wide—one breadth in front, and the other cut in two, and sewn on each side. The arm-holes are made in the seams, and frilled round, or lappets sewn on. At the top in front, from shoulder to shoulder, the pinafore is drawn up by a tape in the hem, and secured to the proper size. The front is biassed into a band of insertion-work, to go partly round the waist. The back is drawn by a string at the top, and again below by a string-case. The front may be either simply biassed once into the band, or it may have three or four rows of biassing. Round the top is an edging of work, or a frill.

INFANTS’ PETTICOATS.

PLATE 4. FIG. 1.

SCALE.

+---------------------------------------+------+----------+--------+
| ———————— |First | Child of |Child of|
| |size. |18 months.| 2 yrs. |
+---------------------------------------+------+----------+--------+
| |Nails.| Nails. | Nails. |
|Width of material | 14 | 14 | 16 |
|Length of body down the selvage | 9 | 10 | 11 |
|Depth of body | 1¾ | 2 | 2¼ |
|Depth of arm-holes | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ |
|Width of arm-holes | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3 | 3 |
|Length of shoulder-straps | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Length of short sleeve when opened out | 4½ | 7 | 8 |
|Greatest depth of ditto | 2¼ | 2½ | 3 |
|Least depth of ditto | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ |
+---------------------------------------+------+-+--------+--------+
| ———————— |Child of|Child of|
| | 5 yrs. | 8 yrs. |
+---------------------------------------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Width of material | 16 | 18 |
|Length of body down the selvage | 12 | 13 |
|Depth of body | 2½ | 2¾ |
|Depth of arm-holes | 1½ | 2 |
|Width of arm-holes | 2 | 2¼ |
|Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3 |
|Length of shoulder-straps | 2 | 2¼ |
|Length of short sleeve when opened out | 9 | 10 |
|Greatest depth of ditto | 3½ | 4 |
|Least depth of ditto | 1½ | 2 |
+---------------------------------------+--------+--------+

Petticoats are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, or fine calico, and should be about 14 nails wide. The skirt is 2 breadths in width, and cut to the length required, after allowing for the deep hem or tucks. They are usually cut the following sizes for the rich and poor.

Nails. Nails.
First size 17 15
Three-quarter size 13 12
Small size 8 7

In cutting out the body, double the strip in two, and again in half, so as to be folded exactly in four, and cut out the arm-holes according to the depth and width wanted, as seen by the Scale. The sleeves are cut out according to the pattern in Plate 4, Fig. 12 or 13; the shoulder-straps are cut out, and the body is ready for making up. Hem it along the top, sufficiently wide to admit a tape, stitch on the shoulder-straps, sew and hem the sleeves, and gather them into the shoulder-straps. The body should have rather wide hems at the two ends, and a sufficiently wide hem at the bottom to admit a narrow tape. Full the body in front, and sew it firmly to the skirt (which should be previously gathered), making it lie pretty evenly all round. The top strings should draw from the shoulder-straps only, and another string may be run in the front to draw it, and tie on one side.

INFANTS’ FROCKS.

PLATE 4.

Are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, and print, and, when the children are older, sometimes of nankeen, jean, Holland, merino, cloth, stuff, and silk. Those for the poor are usually of print, and are made according to the pattern for petticoats (see Plate 4, Fig. 1); those for the rich are made in various ways, among which are the following:—

The full body.
The plain body, cut in one piece.
The plain body, with backs and fronts cut crosswise.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7

Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11

Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18

Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23

Fig 24 Fig 28

Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 30]

SCALE FOR THE SKIRTS.

Width of skirt 2 or 3 breadths, so as to form from 14 to 16 nails wide, when the skirt is double, as if made up.

Rich. Poor.
———— ————
Nails. Nails.

Length of skirt for first size 18 15
Ditto three-quarters size 12 or 14 10
Ditto short coats 8 8
Depth of hem at the bottom 4 1
Depth of slit to the skirt 2½ 2½

There are so many ways of making up skirts, that only a few will be described.

Broad hems and tucks of various depths are the simplest and prettiest; others are more ornamented by letting in work at the top of the broad hem, or working with braid, bobbin, or cord. Robings are often brought down in front, in continuation of the little capes sewn on the bodies. These robings should be 1½ nail broad, sloped off to ½ nail, and carried down to the bottom of the skirt, or to the top of a deep hem. They should be sewn on so that the edge of the work is turned outwards.

The sleeves are made according to fancy, and are of the sizes marked in the Scale, pages 35, 36.—(See also, Plate 4.)

FULL BODIES.

PLATE 4. FIG. 1.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------+-------+--------+--------+
| | | Child | Child |
| ———————— | First | of | of |
| | size. | 1 yr. | 3 yrs. |
|-------------------------------------+-------+--------+--------+
| | Nails.| Nails. | Nails. |
|Depth of body down the selvage | 1½ | 2 | 2¼ |
|Length of body width-way of the cloth| 14 | 16 | 20 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ |
|Width across arm-hole | 1½ | 2 | 2¼ |
|Length of waistband | 8 | 9 | 10 |
|Length of band for the hem at top | 8 | 9 | 11 |
|Length of sleeve-bands | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Length of shoulder-strap, if wanted | 1¾ | 2¼ | 2½ |
+-------------------------------------+-------+--+-----+----+---+
| | Child | Child |
| ———————— | of | of |
| | 5 yrs. | 8 yrs. |
|-------------------------------------+----------+----------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Depth of body down the selvage | 2½ | 3 |
|Length of body width-way of the cloth| 20 | 20 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1¾ | 2 |
|Width across arm-hole | 2½ | 3 |
|Length of waistband | 11 | 13 |
|Length of band for the hem at top | 12 | 13 |
|Length of sleeve-bands | 4¼ | 4½ |
|Length of shoulder-strap, if wanted | 2¾ | 3 |
+-------------------------------------+----------+----------+

In cutting it out, double the strip for the body once, and again in half, and then cut out the arm-holes the proper depth and width. The full body is made up in either of the following ways:—the first and most simple, is by merely hemming it at the top and bottom, putting wide hems at the ends, and then setting it upon the skirt, making more fulness at the back and in front than at the sides. The sleeves are put into the body with shoulder-straps.

The tapes are put in to draw from the shoulder-straps behind, at the top, and another string to draw in front, also a tape all through the waist-hem.

These simply-made frocks are very useful for fast-growing children, as they will let out to the size wanted.

ANOTHER MODE OF MAKING UP.

PLATE 4. FIG. 2.

The other mode of making them up is the neatest in appearance. The body is gathered at the top and set into a long narrow band, which forms the hem and the shoulder-straps. The bottom of the body is also firmly gathered, and sewn on with very strong thread to the skirt, which is also gathered so as to let the fulness lie principally in front. Sometimes the body is biassed in front in two or three rows, as in Fig. 2.

PLAIN STRAIGHT BODY.

SCALE.

+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | First |Child of|Child of|
| ———————— | size. | 1 yr. | 2 yrs. |
+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of body down selvage | 10 | 11 | 12 |
|Depth of body | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Depth of arm-hole | ¾ | 1 | 1½ |
|Width across arm-hole | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Length of band, if wanted | 8 | 9 | 9½ |
|Length of shoulder-straps | 1¾ | 2 | 2¼ |
|Length of sleeve-bands | 3 | 3 | 3 |
|Length of band at top | 9 | 10 | 10 |
|Length of each cape | 9 | 10 | 11 |
|Depth down selvage | ¾ | ¾ | 1 |
+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| |Child of|Child of|Child of|
| | 4 yrs. | 8 yrs. | 10 yrs.|
+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of body down selvage | 14 | 16 | 18 |
|Depth of body | 2½ | 2¾ | 3 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 2 | 2½ | 3 |
|Width across arm-hole | 2¼ | 2¾ | 3 |
|Length of band, if wanted | 10 | 11 | 12 |
|Length of shoulder-straps | 2½ | 2¾ | 3¼ |
|Length of sleeve-bands | 3½ | 4 | 4 |
|Length of band at top | 10 | 11 | 12 |
|Length of each cape | 13 | 14 | 14 |
|Depth down selvage | 1¼ | 1¼ | 1¼ |
+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+

Straight bodies are generally used for ladies’ children, and are ornamented in different ways. Some are worked in bobbin-work, coronation braid (see Fig. 4), common braid, or else work is let in; and others with satin-stitch worked on the muslin, or very fine small tucks, either horizontal or perpendicular (see Fig. 3). One or two bodies will be more minutely described here, as a guide by which to make others.

PLATE 4. FIG. 5.

Divide the body in half, so as to ascertain the middle, and run a tacking-thread down it; run two others, one on each side, at the distance of little more than ½ a nail from the middle, at the top, and slanting down to the middle point at the bottom of the body; run two others, at the distance of ⅔ of a nail on each side of the last, slanting them towards the centre, at the distance of ½ a nail on each side from the centre. These tacking-threads serve as a guide, by which means the pattern can be done more regularly. Sew two bobbin-lines, one on each side of each tacking-thread, leaving a small space between them sufficiently wide for little oylet-holes, or some other ornamental pattern, to be worked. Afterwards, sew on the bobbin neatly in patterns, according to fancy. Put in the sleeves next, having worked the bands and the triangular shoulder-bits to correspond with the front. Next put on the capes. The whole should be trimmed with a little edging or narrow work.

PLATE 4. FIG. 8.

The front is worked in fancy button-hole stitch, as in Plate 5, Fig. 19. The bands round the sleeves and the triangular shoulder-bits are worked in rows of the same stitch. The capes are worked near the edge with the horse-shoe stitch, as also the ends of the body (Plate 5, Fig. 20), and the edging is entirely of fancy bobbin edging (Plate 5, Fig. 18).

PLATE 4. FIG. 6.

Procure some pretty open work, in the style of that in the Plate, and sew several strips together, always making the pieces narrower at the bottom than at the top, in order to make them point towards the centre, as in the Plate. A body made thus generally wears and washes very well. The capes should be of some pretty work, and the whole trimmed with edging to match the rest. The triangular shoulder-bits have a piece of insertion-work inlaid in them.

BODY WITH HONEY-COMB STITCH.

This body has the side-bits cut as above, and the front is a triangular piece of honeycomb-stitch worked and let in. In making the triangular bit, lay the plaits very narrow and even, before working it in honeycomb. For a description of the stitch, see Plate 1, Fig. 15, 16.

SLEEVES.

PLATE 4.

There are various sorts of long and short sleeves, some of which it is impossible to describe clearly, and it will not, therefore, be attempted. The most simple are the following:—

THE ROUND SLEEVE.

FIG. 1, 18.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+
| | |Child |Child |Child |
| ————— | First | of | of | of |
| | size. | 1 yr.|3 yrs.|6 yrs.|
+----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+
| | Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|
|Size of square piece out of which | | | | |
| the circle for the sleeve is cut| 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
|Diameter of inner circle | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 |
|Length of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 |
|Length of sleeve-band | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | 3¾ |
|Depth of sleeve-band | ½ | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ |
+----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+

FIG. 18.

Cut your material into square pieces of the size wanted (in proportion to the Scale), and double the square in half, so as to make it triangular, or three-cornered in shape. Fold it in the same manner again and again, as often as it will admit of being done; one side is longer than the other, mark it with your scissors the same distance on the long side from the point, as it is on the short, and cut it directly across; by which means the square will become a circle, as will be seen when opened. This circle should be hollowed out at one side (Plate 4, Fig. 18), in order to make it set better under the arm. Before opening the circle, a small hole should be cut at the pointed end, to form the opening for the arm in proper proportion. The shoulder-strap and band are next cut. Set the inner circle very neatly into the band; after which, gather the outer circle and sew it to the shoulder-strap, ready to put into the body. This sleeve is sometimes confined by loops of ribbon, or little triangular pieces of work, as in Fig. 2 and 6.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 4. FIG. 13.

PRINCIPALLY USED FOR PETTICOATS AND PLAIN FROCKS.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+
| | Baby’s |Child of|Child of|
| —————————— |first size.| 2 yrs. | 4 yrs. |
+----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Measure of the largest depth | 2 | 2½ | 3 |
|Length of sleeve, when open, | | | |
| to cut crosswise of the material| 7 | 9 | 11 |
|Measure of the smallest depth | ½ | ¾ | 1 |
|Length of band | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ |
|Length of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 |
+----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+

It is better to cut this pattern (and indeed all patterns of sleeves) in paper, before cutting your material, to prevent waste. The pattern, when folded in half, resembles Fig. 13, being for the first size, and is 2 nails deep from A to B, and 3½ nails long from B to C. The top, from A to D, is sloped down, beginning at E, which is about half the length, by which means the depth from D to C is only 1 nail. When opened, the sleeve resembles Fig. 12. In cutting it out, turn up a corner of your material (Fig. 12) in the form of a half-handkerchief, A B being parallel to, or straight with C D. The pattern sleeve is laid with the long straight end upon the crease, so as to lie crosswise. Cut through the folded muslin carefully by the pattern, so that the _pair_ of sleeves is cut at once. The part which forms the bottom of the sleeve is straight, and should be gathered into the band. The sloped side is gathered or whipped into the shoulder-strap.

PLATE 4. FIG. 14.

The Scale is the same as Fig. 13 and 8.

This sleeve is the most favourite shape, and is cut out exactly like Fig. 13; after which the part, A B, is sloped off at 1 nail from the end, C. A triangular piece of worked muslin is hemmed round; the sleeve is then neatly put into the arm-hole, with mantua-maker’s hem, or run and felled, after which the rest of the sleeve is whipped and sewed on to the triangular piece. These sleeves are generally made with a little frill very much fulled, which forms a cape behind, and also in front; the frill is therefore sewed on the sleeve neatly at the edge of the triangular bit.

PLATE 4. FIG. 9, 11.

This is another variety of sleeve, and is very pretty for a young child. It is cut out, in the first instance, exactly like Fig. 14; after which it is sloped off in the shape of a triangle below, so that the sleeve requires a triangular bit below, as well as on the shoulder, for the sleeve to be fulled to. The bottom triangle should be cut with the band, into which the sleeve is confined.

LONG SLEEVES.

PLATE 4. FIG. 15, 16, 17.

Long sleeves, if for bed-gowns and under clothes, may be cut according to the bits of cloth left, to prevent waste, always remembering to cut selvage-wise. They are generally the shape of Fig. 15, Plate 4. The sleeve is sloped off from D to A, so as to cut about a nail off the stuff (see D C). Slope in the direction D E, to make the wrist about 1½ or 2 nails wide. The part, A B D, should be hollowed. Sometimes it is desirable to piece the sleeve when there are many bits; in which case it may be joined across from B to E of the under double, taking care that the muslin pieced on also runs selvage-wise. In cutting out long sleeves, take care to cut them a pair, so that the joinings shall lie outside, and the hollowed part towards the inside or front. From A to C is 3½ nails.

Long sleeves, for dresses, spencers, &c., to be properly made, should be cut as follows (Plate 4, Fig. 16 and 17):—turn up the corner of your muslin to form such an angle as will just hold the sleeve, so as to make the one side of the long sleeve lie along the selvage, as in Fig. 16, where, the sleeve being small, but little of the corner is turned up, in which the sleeve, A B C D, exactly fits. The top corner, F, must be sloped off, and the corner, D C, also, to the proper width for the wrist, which is 1½ nail.

Fig. 17 is a better sort of sleeve, and is here introduced, though it properly belongs to the table of sleeves in Plate 12, in which a description and pattern of each size is correctly given. The corner is turned up to a complete half square, so that A and B are parallel to C D. From A to B is 6 nails; from B to D 5½ nails. From A to H, and from B to C, are 1½ nail. Curve from H to E. From H to G are 5½ nails. From E to F are 3½ nails. From F to G, 1¼ nail. This sleeve is called the gigot, or gigot de mouton sleeve, from its likeness to a leg of mutton. For further particulars, see Sleeves, Plate 12.

AN INFANT’S RECEIVER.

A receiver, or wrapper, in which an infant is put immediately on its birth, previous to its being washed and dressed, is composed of the finest Welsh flannel, with a soft warm nap upon it. This flannel should be a perfect square, and is generally made of 2 breadths of flannel; the width of the flannel must, therefore, determine the size of the square, which should not be less than 24 nails, or more than 2 yards. A soft piece of fine calico, linen, or cambric muslin, is taken, of the same size, and they are bound together with flannel binding. This receiver is frequently used afterwards by the poor in the double capacity of coverlet and shawl, to carry the infant about in.

INFANT’S SHAWL.

For the first three months, infants should be carried about in a shawl, not only on account of the warmth, but as a matter of security to their tender heads and limbs, which cannot bear the hard pressure of the nurse’s arm or hand.

These shawls for the nursery should be simply a square of flannel of 1½ breadth or 2 breadths. The best shawl, with which it is carried into sitting-rooms, should be made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, or, what is better still, of the fine thick Saxony flannel. These are usually made with very deep hems, about 1½ nail of the same material, braided with silk braid all round, and worked at the corners, or else the hem is formed of pearl-white satin or rich silk; but these last spoil so soon, that it is a great expense.

INFANT’S FLANNEL CLOAK.

PLATE 4. FIG. 19, 24.

It is recommended to all mothers to have a flannel cloak to wrap round their infants when carried about in their night clothes, and when up at night; and they will be found especially useful when the baby is old enough to be dipped in a cold bath, or obliged to be put in a warm one, as, on taking the child out of it, they can wrap it up entirely, and almost rub it dry with the cloak itself.

The first size here mentioned will last a child well from its birth until eighteen months or two years old.

SCALE.

The cloak requires two flannel shoulder-pieces to make it strong. Full the skirt very evenly all round to the proper size, and then laying the edge between the edges of the two shoulder-pieces, which should be held so as to fall back or down against the skirt, one on each side, sew, or rather back-stitch them very firmly together. When this is done, turn up the shoulder-pieces on each side, so that the edges are completely hidden on both sides of the cloak. Sew the collar neatly on to the other two edges of the shoulder-pieces, and conceal the rough edges by means of a wide string-case of soft tape or calico.

The cloak is bound with flannel binding, and the arm-holes also; they are either opened in the seam, or if that would make them too far back, they should be cut in the flannel at once, at the proper distance. A deep cape might be added as the child grew older, or if it were sickly and required additional warmth.

CHILD’S BIB.

PLATE 4. FIG. 25.

This is often used by mothers for their children while cutting their teeth, to prevent the moisture from their mouths wetting their chests and the bosoms of their frocks. It is made of three or four folds of fine diaper, sewed together on the wrong side, and turned inside out, to conceal the edges, it is hollowed to fit under the chin, and made to tie with a ribbon round the neck.

INFANTS’ PELISSES AND CLOAKS.

PLATE 4. FIG. 20.

Infant’s first cloaks are generally made of some warm material, as cloth, merino, kerseymere, or wadded silk. The last-mentioned, though pretty, soon spoils, being easily injured by wet, and the colours of those parts near the baby’s chin fly and look shabby; merino and kerseymere are decidedly the best for the purpose, and look equally neat and handsome. There is a kind of fine but thickly woven flannel, particularly strong and elastic, and well adapted for children’s shawls and cloaks. It is called Saxony flannel, but is rarely to be procured at country shops, and seldom of any colour but white. It is about 1 and 1½ yard wide, and varies from 3_s._ 2_d._ to 5_s._ per yard: for the lower orders, cloth, stuff, nankeen, gingham, or print, are the most serviceable.

INFANT’S LONG PELISSE.

PLATE 4. FIG. 20, 21, 22, 28.

It must be made of two or more breadths, according to the material; as the widths vary exceedingly, it is impossible to lay down a definite rule further than this; that the whole width round the bottom should be from 30 to 33 nails; and at the top sloped off to 24 nails.

Supposing the material to be of wide width (say 20 nails), half one breadth would be wide enough for the back, and one whole breadth crossed according to Fig. 22, would form the two fronts. Observe that the two straight sides of the crossed pieces are set in front.

SCALE.

+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| | First | Second |
| —————————— | size. | size. |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|
|Length of skirt | 1 3 | 1 0 |
|Width round the bottom, about | 33 | 30 |
|Sloped off at the top to reduce the width to | 24 | 24 |
|Length of shoulder | 2 | 2¼ |
|Sloped off from the shoulder | ½ | ½ |
|Length of arm-hole | 2 | 2½ |
|Arm-hole curves into the skirt (see Fig. 28) | ½ | ½ |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 5 | 6 |
|Width of ditto | 5 | 6 |
|Double the sleeve selvage-wise, and slope off| | |
| for the wrist to | 1½ | 2 |
|Case for string sewed on inside | 4 | 5 |
|Whole length of band | 10 | 11 |
|Cape, according to Plate 13, Fig. 31 | | |
|Collar, according to Plate 13, Fig. 13 | | |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| —————————— | Third |
| | size. |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+
| | Nails. |
|Length of skirt | 14 |
|Width round the bottom, about | 30 |
|Sloped off at the top to reduce the width to | 24 |
|Length of shoulder | 2¼ |
|Sloped off from the shoulder | ½ |
|Length of arm-hole | 3 |
|Arm-hole curves into the skirt (see Fig. 28) | ½ |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of ditto | 6 |
|Double the sleeve selvage-wise, and slope off| |
| for the wrist to | 2 |
|Case for string sewed on inside | 6 |
|Whole length of band | 12 |
|Cape, according to Plate 13, Fig. 31 | |
|Collar, according to Plate 13, Fig. 13 | |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+

The sleeves, collar, &c. should be cut from the remaining half-breadth of the cloth.

If the material be but 10 or 12 nails wide, 3 breadths must be used, and the two front breadths sloped off to the proper width at the top.

In making up the pelisses, the front breadths are lined with silk or sarsenet, as also the top part or body, collar, cape, &c., but the back breadth should be lined with cambric muslin. The hem at the bottom of the skirt is about 1½ nail deep, while that up the sides and round the cape and collar are but ¾ of a nail. Take notice, in cutting your collar and cape, that allowance must be made for the hems.

The skirt seams are sewed up, as well as the lining, and joined together by means of the broad hem round the bottom; the shoulders, arm-holes, and sleeves are next completed, after which the neck is finished by making a hem at the top, and drawing a tape through it, which is fastened down at both ends after the skirt has been drawn up to the proper width which should be about 1 nail wider than is required to set round the neck. A strong case of ribbon or other soft material is next put round the neck inside, through which a ribbon is drawn and fastened in the middle. This ribbon, of course, ties in front.

For children’s short pelisses, see Plate 14.

CLOAKS FOR SUMMER.

PLATE 4. FIG. 23.

This is a very simple and remarkably neat looking pattern for a second sized cloak. It looks well when made of twilled muslin, cloth, nankeen, print, and especially fine dimity. The material should be about 1 yard 3 nails wide, in which case one breadth and 14 nails is sufficient for the skirt, which should be one yard long.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.|
|Quantity required for one at 19 nails wide | 3 14 |
|Width of cloak at the bottom | 2 1 |
|Length of ditto | 1 0 |
|Size of sleeves, both width and length | 5 |
|Length of wristband down the selvage | 3 |
|Width of ditto | 2 |
|Length of band | 12 |
|Width of ditto | 2 |
|Collar cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 3 | column 2 |
|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13, Fig. 4) | column 1 |
|Length of cape down the selvage | 7 |
|Whole width of ditto | 2 0 |
+-------------------------------------------+----------+

The remaining 5 nails off the second breadth of the skirt may be cut into collar, shoulder-piece, &c. The cloak has a broad hem laid on all round, which the cape and collar have also, to form which, strips should be cut selvage-wise of 1¼ nail, and sometimes worked muslin edging of a neat but open pattern is put on all round.

About 9 or 10 yards of the strips are required, and, as frequent joinings look ill, it would be better to cut off a piece of the material a yard long, from which all the strips can be taken off; 9 strips of this length will only take 11¼ nails out of the breadth; therefore, if economy is a great object, 10 strips might be cut in the breadth of but 10 nails deep, which would cut up the breadth without waste.

Yds. nls.
Material for Cloak and most of the et ceteras 2 0
Ditto for long cape 14
Ditto for strips 1 0
—— ——
3 14

If the strips are often joined, 3 yards 8 nails.

In making up the cloak, the shoulder-piece is piped all round, and the skirt fulled evenly into it. The collar is then sewn on, and a casing made at the top, to admit of a ribbon. The broad hem is next laid on all round, and the sleeves put in. At the waist, the casing is sewn on inside, and the band outside, the back may be confined to the band or not, at pleasure.

INFANT’S FIRST HOOD.

PLATE 4. FIG. 26, 27, 29, 30.

This is the most approved shape for infant’s first hoods, whether they are boys or girls, owing to its warmth and softness, and also for the comfort with which an infant can rest its head on its nurse’s shoulder. They are generally made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, satin, silk, nankeen, or indeed of any material similar to the cloak. Kerseymere, lined with silk or satin of a pale colour is particularly pretty and suitable, from its simplicity.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 10

Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 12 Fig 14 Fig 15

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 13 Fig 16

Fig 30 Fig 31

Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21

Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29]

Cut a piece along the selvage, 7 nails long, and three nails wide; double it in half its length, making it only 3½ nails. Let F A (see Fig. 27) be the doubled part, and on the opposite end, measure off one nail from C to B, and cut it off in a direct line from B to A. F D is the front of the hood. The horse-shoe crown (Fig. 26) must be cut next, for which take another piece of 2¼ nails long, down the selvage, and 2 nails wide. Fold it half the width, and slope off a third of a nail from the bottom, B to D, also round off the top. For the tippet or curtain, form a perfect circle, from a square of 8 nails, from which take out the triangular piece (see Fig. 30, A B C), the distance from B to C being 2 nails along the line. In making up the hood, cut a lining of silk or satin the same size; also one of fine flannel, wadding, or demet; then sew the crowns into the head-pieces of each of the three materials separately. The merino hood may be piped with silk or satin, braided with silk braid or worked in chain-stitch, with netting silk, round the horse-shoe crown, after which, place the flannel lining between the merino and silk, and stitch them firmly together with small neat stitches, as close to the piping or braid as possible. Next run them all together at the edges, admitting a piece of chip or thin whalebone to give a little stiffness. Two runners are made three quarters of a nail from the edge, and from each other; these runners must be of sufficient width to admit the three-penny width ribbon. These ribbons are fastened at one side of the hood, and drawn up to the proper size, and then tacked down at the other, leaving sufficient ribbon to allow of the hood being undrawn entirely, when it is wanted; another ribbon is put behind. A rosette of satin ribbon is worn on the left side, if a boy, and in front, if a girl, and a small bow behind. The curtain is sewed on plainly along the horse-shoe, but fulled from thence to the ears.

These hoods will draw out to last a child twelve months after its birth, and will clean well, when of merino.

For children’s hats and bonnets, see Plate 19.

COVER FOR A BASSINETTE.

PLATE 5. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4.

A bassinette (see Fig. 4) is a very small cradle made of wicker-work, about 3 feet long, 18 inches wide, and 15 inches high. It is very useful for carrying about, and may be set upon a table, sofa, or bed, taken in a carriage, or even upon the lap with little inconvenience. For a delicate child, and in the winter, it is very desirable, being much warmer than a larger cradle.

Bassinettes are fitted up with a coloured lining under a thin dimity or muslin covering. The lining is sometimes made of white, blue or pink satin or silk, but more generally, and more sensibly, of glazed calico. It should be put on the outside of the wicker-work, and also very neatly fulled in regular folds inside it. The cover is made about half a yard deep down the selvage, and 4½ yards wide. When all the breadths are sewed together, a deep hem is made at the top, with a runner for a string (the hem and runner together to be about 1 nail). If the material is thick, it is better to sew to it, quite plainly, a deep frill, of a finer texture, to give it lightness, instead of having the frill made of the same; through the runner pass a tape, which will draw it all round to the proper size, to fit the body of the cradle; a second hem at the bottom will also be required for the same purpose (see Plate 5, Fig. 1). The head-piece, Fig. 2, is made, so that when drawn up, it will fit the head of the bassinette. Cut a piece of ½ a yard down the selvage, and 1 yard 2 nails in width. As there must be no seam in the width, if the material be not wide enough, it would be better to cut the width down the selvage-way instead. It must be doubled in half the width (the 1 yard 2 nails), see Fig. 2, and sloped off from B to C in a very gradual curve, the space from A to B is 3 nails. Hem each of the two straight sides, and make a runner from B to C for a tape. Next full the straight part, D A, to the exact size round the front of the head; let the fulling lie towards the middle, and when ready, sew on the double frill, which is made of fine clear muslin. The frill, Fig. 3, is cut in strips width-way, of 3 nails each; sew these strips together till you have about 4 yards length of frilling; make a narrow hem on each side of the frill, and then begin to put it upon the front, or fulled part of the head-piece; for this purpose, double the frilling exactly in half, and while thus doubled, allow from the centre ¼ of a nail for the frilling, and make another even crease all along. Open the frills, and turning down at the one side, begin to run; and, dividing it, of course, into quarters, gather it evenly; when done, sew it firmly to the cover, at within ¼ of a nail from the edge; after which, turn down the other outer crease at the proper distance from the centre of the frill, and do the same with it; when ready, sew it on to the edge itself of the head-piece. This frilling should stand up well, and not he flat against the cover; for this end, not quite so much as ¼of a nail should be allowed between the two seams. A ribbon the same colour as the lining runs through the puffing, and fastens the cover on in front, while the tape or ribbon, through the other runner, ties it at the bottom of the head, and draws it up to the right size.

CRADLE COVER.

PLATE 5. FIG. 5, 6, 7, 8.

A cradle merely requires a little drapery over the head, to form curtains, in order to guard the infant from the sun, or from draughts of air, while asleep, and to give an air of comfort and cleanliness.

The drapery should always be perfectly white, of dimity, twilled muslin, or other neat strong material. Some ladies put covers of thin muslin over a coloured lining, but nothing looks so well as perfectly white curtains. The dimity, &c. should be about 1 yard wide; take two breadths of the proper length from the head of the cradle to the floor, about 14 nails, pin them evenly together, and sew up the seam from A to B (Fig. 5), about the distance of ½ a yard, but this must be determined by the cradle, observing to sew up until it begins to curve. As the curve must be cut while the material is fitted on the cradle itself, the dimity should be pinned along the bottom of the cradle from A to E, and also from A to B at the back. Then fit it accurately by pinning the breadths exactly, though easily together, along the curve, allowing enough for shrinking in washing, and when nicely fitted on, cut off the superfluous part and stitch it along, while on the cradle; the rough edges may afterwards be turned over, and hemmed down. The remainder of the dimity in front, is intended to hang over the cradle top, to form little curtains; hem round each side, and connect them together with small stitches, by running a cord up one hem, and down the other (Fig. 5, C D), the piece is drawn up to a small compass. This drawn up piece will require a bow or rosette of muslin (see Fig. 8); the whole piece may be trimmed with fringe, or turned up with a piping, which, if the cover be lined with glazed coloured calico, should be of the same. A loop of cord should come from underneath, and encircle the rosette (see Fig. 8).

For noblemen’s families, these covers are sometimes edged with silk fringe, or turned up with silk or satin, to accord with a lining of the same.

CRIB COVERS.

PLATE 5. FIG. 16.

These are generally made with a horse-shoe back, reaching from the top to the bottom of the crib; it is piped all round, and a piece of the proper width to go from side to side over the hoops is cut selvage-way, and either sewn plainly or fulled on to the horse-shoe back. This piece may either be finished in front like that over the cradle head, by drawing it up, and thus forming curtains; or two half-breadths may be fulled evenly round to this head-piece. Crib covers are frequently lined with blue or other coloured calico, which is sometimes made larger than the cover, to admit of being turned up so as to form a little border outside.

INFANT’S HANGING COT.

PLATE 5. FIG. 9.

This is a convenient shape, as it easily takes to pieces when not in use. The sides are either made entirely of wood, when no drapery is necessary; but they are usually merely frames to which ticking or any other material is fixed.

If it is furnished with ticking, it is laid on plain, though almost any other material, which will not wash is laid in plaits or fulled. The material is bound all round, and nailed on at the inner side, after which, an inside lining of glazed calico, or other material is put.

If the material is a washing one, glazed calico, chintz, twill, or white dimity is used; and this last is particularly neat and nice, and in the country might be made to keep clean a long time; the pieces should be fulled into some strong binding, to which very small loops might be sewn, large enough to admit of the nail to confine it firmly to the crib, so that when the covering is removed for washing, the loops alone are torn by the nails, and they can be easily replaced. The head drapery is similar to that of Fig. 16. Cotton fringe and gimp set all round, both above and below, gives a pretty finish to the whole. The ropes of the cots should be often looked to, and frequently renewed, as they wear out quickly, and the child’s safety depends on their strength.

THE TRAVELLING COT.

PLATE 5. FIG. 10,11,12, 13.

This is a most convenient crib for mothers to use when travelling with young children, as it is extremely light, and can be put up in two minutes, and if kept in a leathern case, with straps (see Fig. 10), it can easily be attached to the roof, or below a carriage, and be perfectly free from damp.

The stand (see Fig. 13) is made of strong beech-wood, and when taken to pieces, is in seven parts. The upright posts are fastened together two by two, by the short bits of wood, A and B, which are screwed tight into the legs by long iron screws, with brass heads. The long bar, C D, connects the two sides together also, by means of screws. These screws should be attached to the posts or bars they belong to, by a string, as the loss of one would render the crib unsafe. The lower parts of the four posts are much thicker than the upper, to give support to the crib. This is formed of five pieces of wicker-work (see Fig. 11), the bottom and four sides. The four sides are fastened firmly to the bottom, allowing, however, ample room to give full play for the sides to fold backwards or forwards. At each extreme corner is fastened a ring of iron, brass, or strong wicker-work. These rings are so placed, that when the sides are turned up to form the crib, the two rings at each corner shall slip over the top of each post of the stand, by which means all will remain firm.

The wicker crib should be 4 feet long, 2 feet 6 inches wide, and 15 inches deep. The one narrow end might be made deeper to give more protection to the head; and one or two hoops might be put into a ring or staple at the sides of the wicker-work, by which means a head-piece is easily made.

The stand posts should be 30 inches high, letting from E to G be 13 inches, from G to H, 7 inches, and from H to J be 10 inches.

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The workwoman's guideChapter V (2)

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