Chapter VI: Women’s Shifts (4)

+------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+
| ———————— |No. 1.|No. 2.| No. 3.|No. 4.|
+------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+
| |Nails.|Nails.| Nails.|Nails.|
| Length of square | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | 4 |
| Width of square when doubled | 5¾ | 5½ | 5½ | 5 |
| Space from A to B | 1¾ | 1 | corner| ½ |
| | | |rounded| |
| Space from B to C | 3¾ | 4 | 4 | 3½ |
| Space from C to D | 3¼ | 3 | 2 | 2 |
| Space from D to E | 2 | 2½ | 3½ | 3 |
| Space from E to F | 2½ | 2¼ | 1¼ | 1 |
| Space from F to G | 3 | 2¾ | 3¼ | 3 |
| Space from G to H | ½ | ½ | | |
+------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+

In column 3, mark one quarter of a nail above the corner, G, and slope off in a direct line from the mark to the opposite corner, A, which is merely rounded off at the corner, about a quarter of a nail on each side.

PLATE 13. FIG. 8.

A pretty collar to put on a silk mourning shawl, or for a dress or cloak. Both the back and front must be on the cross.

SCALE.

+-------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 7½ |
| Width of square | 6½ |
| Space from A to B | 5½ |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 5 |
| Space from D to E | 1½ |
| Space from E to F | 3½ |
| Space from F to G | 4 |
| Space from G to H | 2½ |
+-------------------+-------+

A PARTICULARLY NEAT AND WELL-SETTING CAPE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 9.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 12 |
| Width of square when doubled | 8 |
| Space from A to B | 4 |
| Space from B to C | 8 |
| Space from C to D | 3 |
| Space from D to E | 5 |
| Space from E to F | 3¾ |
| Space from F to G | 2 |
| Space from F to H | 3 |
| Space from H to I | 5¼ |
| Space from I to J | 1¾ |
+------------------------------+-------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 10, 11.

Fig. 11 is a very pretty pattern for a walking cape, and is often worn in mourning, with black crape gaufiered round the edge a nail deep, as in the Plate. Fig. 10 is a simple collarette, which is sewed on the cape to give it a finish.

SCALE TO FIG. 10.

+------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 4¼ |
| Width of square when doubled | 5½ |
| Space from A to B | 1 |
| Space from B to C | 3½ |
| Space from C to D | 2½ |
| Space from D to E | 3 |
| Space from E to F | 2 |
| Space from F to G | 2¼ |
| Space from G to H | 2 |
+------------------------------+-------+

SCALE TO FIG. 11.

+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 7½ |
| Width of square when doubled | 10½ |
| Space from A to B | 6½ |
| Space from B to C | 1 |
| Space from C to D | 1 |
| Space from D to E | 4 |
| Space from E to F | 5½ |
| Space from F to G | 1½ |
| Space from G to H | 3 |
| Space from G to I | 6 |
| Space from I to J | 7 |
+------------------------------+--------+

A REMARKABLY NEAT MORNING COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 12.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 10 |
| Width of square when doubled | 7½ |
| Space from A to B | 2¾ |
| Space from B to C | 7¼ |
| Space from C to D | 3½ |
| Space from D to E | 4 |
| Space from E to F | 2 |
| Space from F to G | 1½ |
| Space from F to H | 2¼ |
| Space from H to I | 5¾ |
+------------------------------+--------+

A PRETTY LITTLE CAPE FOR A BABY’S CLOAK OR PELISSE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 13.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 3¼ |
| Width of square when doubled | 3 |
| Space from A to B | 1¼ |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 1¼ |
| Space from D to E | 1¾ |
| Space from E to F | ½ |
| Space from F to G | 1 |
| Space from F to H | ¾ |
| Space from H to I | 2 |
+------------------------------+--------+

SMALL COLLAR TO BE SEWED TO A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 14.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 4 |
| Width of square when doubled | 4½ |
| Space from A to B | 1 |
| Space from B to C | 3 |
| Space from C to D | 1 |
| Space from D to E | 3½ |
| Space from E to F | 1 |
| Space from F to G | 3 |
+------------------------------+--------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 15, 16.

Fig. 15, is the pattern of a very handsome long pointed cape, commonly worn to rich silk cloaks and sometimes alone; when that is the case, they are frequently made of velvet or fine cloth, and trimmed with fur or swan’s down.

The cape is made as follows:—Sew together three breadths of the material, eight nails and a half long and about eight nails wide (of course a less number of breadths will be required, if the material be much wider, as merinos, &c.), to each end of the three breadths thus sewed in one length, add another breadth, which, as in Fig. 15 (see A), is eight and a half nails deep at one end, and twelve nails deep at the other, the material being cut in a straight line from B to C.

A GOOD SHAPE FOR A LADY’S RIDING COLLAR, TO BE SEWED TO A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 17.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 4 |
| Width of square when doubled | 4 |
| Space from A to B | 2 |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 1½ |
| Space from D to E | 2½ |
| Space from E to F | 1¾ |
| Space from F to G | 2¼ |
+------------------------------+-------+

These collars are made of a doubled piece of lawn, which being run together and turned inside out, are neatly stitched near the edge like gentlemen’s collars.

A CHEMISETTE DE VIERGE, MODESTY, OR TUCKER.

PLATE 13. FIG. 18.

This is but a quarter of the article, and when the paper pattern is made from the drawing, it should be doubled, so that when cut, it forms half the chemisette, which if it is again laid on a piece of muslin or net doubled, the two sides may be cut at once.

Chemisettes are worn under evening dresses, and are trimmed with blonde, lace, or muslin edging, which should just be seen above the gown. The part marked S is the shoulder. The chemisette is put on over the head and draws round the waist by a tape.

SCALE.

+-------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 4¾ |
| Width of square | 4¼ |
| Space from A to B | 3¾ |
| Space from B to C | 1 |
| Space from C to D | 1 |
| Space from D to E | 3¼ |
| Space from E to F | 1½ |
| Space from F to G | 3¾ |
+-------------------+-------+

A BABY’S COLLARETTE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 19.

This is particularly neat for a baby’s pelisse, and may be sewed on to the shoulder-piece. (Fig. 5).

SCALE.

+------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 3¾ |
| Width of square when doubled | 4 |
| Space from A to B | 2¼ |
| Space from B to C | 1½ |
| Space from C to D | 1¼ |
| Space from D to E | 2 |
| Space from E to F | ¾ |
| Space from F to G | 2½ |
| Space from G to H | 1¼ |
| Space from H to I | 1½ |
+------------------------------+-------+

This collarette should be piped all round, and edged with work, excepting the curve, which goes half round the neck. Two half collarettes must be cut, one for the right, and one for the left side of the neck.

A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 20, 23.

Fig. 23 represents half of the back of a habit-shirt. Fig. 20, one of the two fronts which are sewed on to the back at the shoulder, the parts marked in each figure, S, being the corresponding pieces.

SCALE TO FIG. 23.

+----------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of the square | 8½ |
| Width of the square when doubled | 4 |
| Space from A to B | 6½ |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 2¼ |
| Space from D to E | 1¼ |
| Space from E to F | 1 |
+----------------------------------+-------+

This back, which, of course is cut in the whole piece, has a tape passed through a hem at the bottom, which tape also passes through the hems at the bottom of the two fronts, and ties before.

SCALE TO FIG. 20.

+---------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of the square | 6¼ |
| Width of the square | 6 |
| Space from A to B | 5¼ |
| Space from B to C | 1 |
| Space from C to D | 4 |
| Space from D to E | 2 |
| Space from E to F | 1¼ |
| Space from F to G | 5 |
+---------------------------+--------+

This figure represents one of the fronts of the habit-shirt; the part marked D is the front, S is the shoulder; where the two fronts meet they may be fastened by small buttons, and sometimes work is let in, or narrow tucks made, which have a neat effect. Below the shoulder, and down the front, it is finished with a narrow hem. A collar may be sewed to it at the neck, by a mantua-maker’s hem.

A MOURNING COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 21.

Made of clear muslin, white crape, widow’s lawn, net or tulle, with a broad hem one nail deep all round.

SCALE.

+------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 5½ |
| Width of square | 6 |
| From A to B | 5½ |
| From B to C | 2½ |
| From C to D | 3½ |
| From D to E | 2½ |
| From E to F | 3 |
+------------------+--------+

The hems to these collars are generally laid on, by being run at the edge, and then turned back and hemmed, this is a much neater plan than any other. Sometimes two collars with deep hems are worn one above the other.

For mourning collars of net with either a broad hem, frills with deep hems, or gaufiered frills are used. If the mourning is very deep, the muslin collar is covered with black crape.

A ROUND CAPE OR TIPPET.

PLATE 13. FIG. 22.

No scale can be made to this tippet, as the size is only determined according to the purpose for which it is to be used. Form a perfect circle, and slit from the outer edge of the circle A to the centre B, after which cut out a piece for the neck. This is a very good shape for school girls, it also makes a useful dressing or combing tippet.

A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 24.

This is a very simple neat shape for a habit-shirt. T is the front, and D the middle of the back. It is all cut in one piece, and the part marked B may be laid against the selvage; S is the shoulder.

SCALE.

+-------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 6 |
| Width of square | 10 |
| Space from A to B | 4 |
| Space from B to C | 3 |
| Space from B to D | 2 |
| Space from D to E | 6 |
| Space from E to F | 4 |
+-------------------+-------+

Cut in a straight line from C to A, and square the corner off at A.

A PELERINE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 25.

The back is on the cross and the front is straight.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of oblong | 7 |
| Width of oblong when doubled | 13 |
| Space from A to B | 6½ |
| Space from B to C | ½ |
| Space from C to D | 6 |
| Space from D to E | 3 |
| Space from E to F | 1 |
| Space from E to G | 4 |
| Space from H to I | 4 |
| Space from I to J | 1¼ |
| Space from I to K | 3 |
| Space from K to L | ¾ |
+------------------------------+--------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 26.

This is a very simple collar, and much worn by persons of quiet unassuming habits. It is composed of two oblong strips of muslin, hemmed all round with rather a broad hem, and sewed together at the ends half the way up. Each oblong is four nails long and about three nails deep.

A REMARKABLY PRETTY PELERINE FOR A MORNING DRESS.

PLATE 13. FIG. 27.

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 5 |
| Width of square | 11 |
| Space from A to B | 3½ |
| Space from B to C | 1½ |
| Space from C to D | 5 |
| Space from D to E | 2½ |
| Space from E to F | 3½ |
| Space from F to G | 2 |
| Space from F to H | 3 |
| Space from H to I | 5 |
+-------------------+--------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 28.

This is the pattern of a very handsome long pelerine. The part marked S must be laid along the selvage. Of course this is in two parts, both of which will nearly lie side by side on the opposite selvages of the same breadth.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of the square | 21 |
| Width of the square | 8 |
| Space from A to B | 14 |
| Space from B to C | 3 |
| Space from C to D | 1 |
| Space from D to E | 4 |
| Space from E to F | 5½ |
| Space from F to G | 2½ |
| Space from G to H | 6 |
| Space from H to I | 4 |
| Space from I to J | 5½ |
| Space from J to K | 1 |
| Space from K to L | 1½ |
| Space from I to M | 11 |
| Space from M to N | 4 |
+----------------------+--------+

A HANDSOME SHAPE FOR A PELERINE WITH A SQUARE COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 29.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 7 |
| Width of square when doubled | 12 |
| Space from A to B | 6½ |
| Space from B to C | 4 |
| Space from C to D | 2½ |
| Space from C to E | 2 |
| Space from E to F | 3 |
| Space from F to G | 3 |
| Space from G to H | 4 |
| Space from H to I | 1 |
| Space from I to J | 3 |
| Space from I to K | 2 |
| Space from K to L | 4 |
| Space from L to M | 4½ |
| Space from M to N | 2 |
+------------------------------+--------+

The letters E, F, J, and D, point out the shape of the upper collar.

PLATE 13. FIG. 30.

This is a frill to go over each shoulder of a cape or pelerine, as a finish, and is peculiarly adapted to Fig. 25, 27.

SCALE TO FIG. 30.

+----------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of the square | 8 |
| Width of the square | 10 |
+----------------------+-------+

Draw a straight line across from A to B, which are situated one nail within the corners of the square.

SCALE.

+----------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Space from the corner to C | 7 |
| Space from C to E | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 3½ |
| Space from F to the corner | 1 |
+----------------------------+--------+

Curve, according to the pattern, from the corner to E. The cross part is then fulled on to the pelerine, leaving about two nails from the front and back points.

A CAPE FOR A BABY’S PELISSE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 31.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 5 |
| Width of square when doubled | 5 |
| Space from A to B | 3 |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 1½ |
| Space from D to E | 1 |
| Space from E to F | 2½ |
| Space from F to G | 1½ |
| Space from G to H | 1 |
| Space from H to I | 2½ |
| Space from I to J | 3 |
+------------------------------+--------+

ANOTHER SHOULDER-PIECE, OR NEAT COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 32.

If used for the latter, it may be made with a hem all round, through which a coloured or white satin ribbon may be drawn of about twopenny width. A single or double frill of net should be sewed round it, with a corresponding hem for ribbon. This frill, after the hem is made, should be a full nail deep.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 4 |
| Width of square when doubled | 4 |
| Space from A to B | 2 |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 1½ |
| Space from D to E | 2½ |
| Space from E to F | 1¼ |
+------------------------------+--------+

A MODESTY, OR TUCKER.

PLATE 13. FIG. 33.

This little front, or modesty, is to put inside a low dress, and may be made very prettily. The materials most in use for them are cambric, lawn, muslin, net, tulle, satin, or crape. They are generally tucked, or in folds, or frilled into strips of insertion-work, either the length or the width-way, and always trimmed with a little work or edging on the top. When made, they are about three nails deep, and five nails wide at the top, and tapering to three nails at the waist. They are almost always made the straight way, particularly when they are intended to wash.

A SIMPLE COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 34.

This is a particularly simple pretty collar, and is frequently made of net or muslin, trimmed with narrow work or muslin. It has a broad hem all round, through which satin ribbon is passed. The collar is merely a straight piece, eight nails deep and fourteen nails wide. Double it in half length-wise, and also width-wise to find the centre, and then cut in a straight line from A B, at the top, to the centre. The points, A B, each fall over, as seen in the Plate, and give the appearance of a second collar. The ends should be a little hollowed out, to make the whole set better.

ANOTHER HANDSOME PELERINE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 35.

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 8 |
| Width of square | 11 |
| Space from A to B | 8 |
| Space from B to C | 4 |
| Space from C to D | 1¼ |
| Space from C to E | 2 |
| Space from D to F | 5 |
| Space from F to G | 4 |
| Space from G to H | 2 |
| Space from H to I | 2½ |
| Space from H to J | 2 |
| Space from J to K | 7 |
| Space from K to L | 3 |
| Space from K to M | 2 |
+-------------------+--------+

The corner or tip to be rounded off, beginning at two nails from A, at the bottom, to one nail above A, at the side.

A ROUND COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 36.

This is a small and simple shape for a round collar, with a smaller one upon it. When the larger is cut, the lesser one may be cut by the eye, only taking notice to shape it off more abruptly in front than the other.

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 6½ |
| Width of square | 5½ |
| Space from A to B | 3½ |
| Space from B to C | 3 |
| Space from C to D | 1¾ |
| Space from D to E | 3¼ |
| Space from E to F | ¾ |
| Space from F to G | 1½ |
| Space from F to H | 2¼ |
| Space from H to I | 3½ |
+-------------------+--------+

A SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET.

PLATE 16. FIG. 37, 38.

This is an economical mode of making tippets for poor children, or charity schools, of remnants of cloth, print, &c. Cut a circle in paper, of the right size, and pin it on the carpet or table cloth, whilst you arrange strips of your material on it, in regular lines, as in the Fig. 37; two or three strips may cross each other at right angles; between them should be other straight pieces, and then triangular bits will fill up the circle. Black, orange, crimson, blue, and brown cloth, look very well.

ANOTHER SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET.

PLATE 16. FIG. 39. (Near to FIG. 10, 16.)

This is made of the list of flannel, the selvage of cloth, or any other warm material, and is sewed on to calico; cut a lining in the shape required, and beginning at the bottom, place layer above layer, or strip above strip, something in the way that the many capes of a coachman’s great coat are done: the list or cloth is not put on quite flat, but is a very little fulled. It is then lined with flannel or cloth, and is a most comfortable and strong tippet.

PETTICOATS.

PLATE 14.

Petticoats are made of calico, twill, dimity, cambric, and jaconet muslin, sometimes for mourning, or for wearing under thin dresses of silk and satin: for the middling and lower classes, they are of calico, strong dimity, calimanco, stuff, and bombazine: they are made in various ways, which will be described in the following pages, and the patterns given: the figures and sizes of persons differ so essentially that scales will not be attempted.

Petticoats are in three distinct parts—the skirt, the body, and the sleeves, the varieties of each will be treated of in their turn.

SKIRTS.

Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half-breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made: they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it to hang better. Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top; sometimes they are furnished with pockets on one or both sides; for a description of which, see Pockets. Skirts may be set on to the body, either equally full all round, plain under the arms, and full at the front and back, or with all the fulness behind. Servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist, without any body, and with or without tape shoulder-straps, to keep them up. Under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner.

BODIES OR WAISTS.

These are made either full or tight to the figure.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11

Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17

Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23

Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29

Fig 30 Fig 31 Fig 32 Fig 33 Fig 34

Fig 35 Fig 36 Fig 37 Fig 38 Fig 39 Fig 40

Fig 41 Fig 42 Fig 43 Fig 44 Fig 45

Fig 46 Fig 47

Fig 48 Fig 49 Fig 50 Fig 51 Fig 52 Fig 53 Fig 54 Fig 55]

Tight or plain bodies consist of five parts: the front, two side-pieces, and two backs (see Fig. 1). The front is always cut on the cross, and reaches from below one arm to the other: the side-pieces are also cut crosswise on one side, and straight on the other, the straight side being joined to the front, and that which is cross being stitched to the backs, which are straight behind. Fig. 1 represents a tight body made up, for a small person. Observe that the various directions of the lines drawn on the engravings, represents the selvage-way of the material, as a better guide for the inexperienced. In making up, all the parts should be back-stitched together: the band ought to be very strong; it is often made of webbing or stout tape. Petticoat bodies may be made with or without sleeves, according to the taste of the wearer.

Full bodies are made in a similar manner to tight ones, excepting that two nails more are added in width to the front, so that when laid open it is ten nails and a half at its greatest extent, instead of only seven and a half, like the plain body, and half a nail is also given to each back. The front is cut straight instead of cross, in the full bodies. (See Plate 14, Fig. 2.)

SLEEVES.

For figures of sleeves, see Plate 12 and the descriptions annexed.

NURSING PETTICOATS.

PLATE 14.

For the convenience of those mothers who nurse their infants, the petticoat body in front may be opened in various ways.

PLATE 14. FIG. 3.

The most general mode is simply to have the front of the body in two pieces, so as to open in the middle before, hemming it on each side, and letting the parts tie or button together at the top: it is as well to set the two sides of the front into the band, so that they may overlap each other, in order to guard against cold. This petticoat fastens behind in the usual manner.

PLATE 14. FIG. 4.

Another approved method is that of having the petticoat open on each side in front, so as to be close at the back. This petticoat body is made in four parts: one back, two side pieces, one front. The back piece is cut the straight way, so as to let A B, Fig. 4, lie selvage-wise.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Depth from A to B | 4 |
| Width from G to D | 6 |
| Width from F to E | 8½ |
| Slope it down to H H | 1½ |
| Side-piece from below the arm to the waist | 2¼ |
| From H to J | 4 |
| From J to K cut straight-wise | 3 |
| Length of shoulder-straps | 2 |
| Breadth of shoulder-straps | 1 |
+--------------------------------------------+--------+

The shoulder-straps connect the top of the side-piece with the top of the back. The front of the body is in one piece, being eight nails wide at the top, sloped down to five nails and a half at the bottom; it is four nails deep in the middle, but being hollowed out, is half a nail deeper at the sides. This front has a broad hem all round it, and is set into a band, which is attached to the front breadth of the skirt, the seam on each side of this breadth being open for the space of four nails. Tapes are attached to the band of the back breadth, and tie in front; buttons are set on, to within a nail of the end of the band below the side pieces, to which the band of the front buttons on each side, and by this means overlaps the opening: button-holes are also made at the two corners of the front (see X Z), which correspond with the buttons on the shoulder-strap, Z. The left hand side of Fig. 4 represents the petticoat with the body drawn forward, as if for the purpose of tying it, while the opposite side shows it as if thrown back, ready to put the arm into the sleeve. The front is unfastened and has fallen down.

GOWNS.

PLATE 14.

Gowns being a part of dress much influenced by the fashion or custom of the day, will not be fully entered on in this work, as it would be impossible to give the variety of form and size which is seen in them, and equally impossible, were a selection attempted, to please all tastes, or suit all figures: a few simple patterns for those kinds which are independent of fashion, and especially for those worn by servants, and persons engaged in laborious employments, with a very few other plain ones, will alone come within the limits of the work.

Those commonly worn by servants, and the working classes, are of print, linen, stuff, and for best, light ginghams, merino, or bombazine; ladies wear muslin, gingham, silk, merino, and for dress, either lighter or richer materials, as satins, velvets, gauzes, &c.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The bodies of working gowns should be lined with strong linen, which is preferable to calico, as it does not shrink in the washing; they should be of dark and good washing colours, deep blue and lilac are the best for wear.

It is a good plan to line silk and merino, or stuff gown bodies, with strong linen or brown Holland, as it keeps them in shape, by preventing them from stretching.

In buying striped dresses, be careful that the stripes run selvage-wise, otherwise they are very unbecoming. In making up the bodies, the stripes should lie in the same direction, and not crosswise from shoulder to shoulder.

Checks or plaids are rarely becoming when they are large: for children they should be particularly small and narrow, the colours should not be too bright or gay, but sufficiently contrasted and decided, to give a clear clean effect; plaids of which the colours are pale and indistinct never look very well; and after wearing a short time appear faded and shabby.

Checks are becoming to tall people, and stripes to short ones, as the former rather diminish, while the latter give an appearance of greater length to the figure than is natural to it, in the same way that a striped paper makes a room look higher, than one which is checked, or of which the pattern goes round instead of from top to bottom.

Broad hems and deep flounces also tend to lessen the height, it may therefore be taken as a general rule that tall persons should endeavour to add to their width, by making all the accompaniments to their dress as full and wide, as is consistent with the reigning taste, while those who are short, should let all theirs be as moderate as possible.

The same observations will also apply to stout and thin persons; for the former, all trimmings of the bodies in front, such as rouleaux, folds, and straps, should, generally speaking, be carried from the shoulder to the waist, in preference to being laid on crosswise; while with those who are of a slighter make, it is merely a matter of fancy, only remarking that every advantage of fulness should be given them.

If the trimming of a dress does not exactly match it, care should be taken to select it darker than the dress itself. Waistbands, when shaded, or of two colours, should be always worn with the darkest shade or colour at the bottom of the waist.

The complexion should determine the choice of colours. Persons of a sallow or muddy complexion should carefully avoid bright and glaring, or on the other hand, undecided colours; such as yellow, cherry colour, light green, buff, or drab; clear tints are more suitable to them, as white, light blue, violet, or black.

Those with pale but clear complexions, may wear all the shades of rose colour, primrose, apricot, buff, light green, lilac, brown, and violet.

Fair persons with a colour, will find few shades decidedly unbecoming; perhaps it will be as well for them not to wear buff.

Dark olive or brown complexions should avoid either very dark or very light colours, but they should be careful to select clear tints: pink, geranium, and violet are the most decidedly suitable to them.

On all occasions let the old saying be kept in mind,

“Gaudy colours strike the eye,
And magnify deformity.”

These remarks may seem superfluous to some, but as attention to the minutiæ of dress adds much to a lady-like and refined appearance, and as an endeavour to please by an agreeable exterior, does not necessarily involve a disposition to vanity and frivolity, it is hoped that they will not be hastily condemned.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CUTTING OUT DRESSES.

It would be useless to form scales for the different kinds of dresses, as shapes vary so much, therefore none will be introduced, excepting for children and young persons; as, however, this article of dress forms one of the most important parts of a person’s wardrobe, all general observations for cutting out, that can be reduced to rule, will be given as clearly as the subject will admit of, at the same time, it is strongly recommended to all those who can afford it, to have their best dresses invariably made by a mantua-maker, as those which are cut out at home seldom fit so comfortably, or look so well, as when made by persons in constant practice. To those who have large families or limited means, it certainly is a great saving of expense having them made at home, and to such, the following rules may be useful. It would be very advisable, _as a practice_, for persons little acquainted with cutting out, to purchase cheap print for poor children’s dress and by fitting them on, much experience and nicety might be acquired at little waste or expense.

In making a dress for any body, the following measurements should be taken with a piece of common tape.

From the waist to the bottom of the skirt.

From the nape of the neck to the waist behind.

Round the waist.

Round the wrist.

From the shoulder to the wrist, with the arm bent.

In sending to London or elsewhere for a dress or riding habit, of which the exact measure is required, observe the following directions for transmitting measure in inches:—

1. Height of the person, observing if they stand upright.
2. The length of the arm from the centre of the back to the elbow,
and thence to the knuckles.
3. The circumference of the body, over the full part of the chest.
4. The circumference of the smallest part of the waist.
5. Length of the nape of the neck to the waist, and thence to the
ground.
6. From the front of the armpit to the centre of the bosom, thence
to the chest.
7. From the nape of the neck, over the shoulder, to the centre of
the bosom, and thence to the waist immediately under it.

PLATE 14.

The bodies of dresses contain various parts, called the fronts, the backs, the side-pieces, the shoulder-straps, the shoulder-pieces, collars, &c., &c. These parts are variously employed and differently cut out, according to the style of the dress, sometimes being on the cross, and sometimes on the straight way.

Observe that the lines in the engravings denote, by their direction, which way the selvage side of the material runs. For the purpose of making this quite clear, let it be supposed that these lines represent stripes which run along or down the selvage.

Linings should always be cut to lie the same direction as the material of the gown.

In cutting out a dress, it is usual to fit the lining upon the figure, and cut out the gown from it, though, with an inexperienced person, it would be advisable to fit on the gown also, if the dress is to be full, or in folds.

Gowns are high, low, three-quartered, plain, or full, open before or behind, all of which sorts will be treated of in their proper order.

SIDE-PIECES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 12, 13.

Most dresses have side-pieces or bits under the arm, to join the backs to the fronts. These side-pieces are cut variously. For stout persons, the selvage-way or stripe should run from the extreme point at the bottom of the back of the side-piece, A, towards the middle of the top, B, of Fig. 12. For slight figures, the selvage-way or stripe should run along, or nearly along the front of the side-piece, thus A B, in Fig. 13.

The size of a side-piece depends much upon the figure and fashion. It should never, however, be brought much forwarder than under the middle of the arm-hole. It varies very much at the back, sometimes being brought but just behind the arm-hole, at others to within a nail of the middle of the back. The side-piece is sometimes cut straight at the back, and at others in a kind of half-arch; the latter is required for stout persons.

BACK SHOULDER-PIECES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 5.

These are not necessary to the set of the gown, and are seldom introduced, unless it is the reigning fashion, or for the better cutting up of the material. When these are used, of course shoulder-straps are unnecessary, as they connect the backs with the fronts. A represents a back shoulder-piece.

SHOULDER-STRAPS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 6, 7.

These are mere straps to connect the fronts and backs, and lie over the shoulder. The straps are always double and are generally sloped at each end, so as to be wider next the sleeve than at the shoulder or neck (see Fig. 7).

SKIRTS.

These vary very much as to the number of breadths, according to fashion and material. Thin clinging materials, as muslin, require more breadths than thick or standing out articles of dress, as silk-gauze, velvet, &c.; six, seven, or eight breadths are worn now for full dresses, but formerly four breadths were deemed sufficient. They are usually lined with thin glazed muslin, unless the dress is very heavy as stuff, merino, &c., it is economical to line the skirt, as it keeps the dress cleaner and makes it look better if turned.

A PLAIN HIGH BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 8.

For stout persons, indeed for the generality of figures, it is preferable to have the fronts of the body in two pieces, with a piping up the middle. In cutting out a high plain body, lay the material upon the person as follows:—

Let the selvage-way or stripe of the cloth lie in the direction from the extreme point of the shoulder, A (see Fig. 8), to the middle of the waist, B. In doing this, pin it at a sufficient distance from the selvage of the material to allow of plenty to cover the front. Thus, pin the material on at A B, which is some distance from the selvage, C D. Stroke the material up to the neck in front and hollow out at the neck, putting pins at C E. The front is thus thrown quite on the cross, up the middle. Do the same on the opposite side. Hollow out towards the arm, and cut off where it meets the side-piece. The back pieces, Fig. 9, always have the selvage up the middle, and are properly fitted to the figure till they meet the side-pieces.

In making up, a piping is laid along each seam, and the edges of the lining, and the dress should be well overcast. The sleeves have piping also round them. The backs should have broad hems, and, together with the waist, be lined with a strong tape or calico.

A FULL FRENCH HIGH BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 10, 11, 14.

This body is also in two parts in front. The material is pinned for the selvage-way, or stripe to run from the side of the neck or collar bone, A, to the middle of the waist, B (in Fig. 10), so as to throw the part up the front but slightly on the cross. Put strong pins in at A B C, to keep the material firm, and then commence laying the material in plaits (see Fig. 11), slanting from the shoulder towards the waist, folding them much deeper at the waist than at the top; five, six, or seven of these plaits are sufficient. In laying them along they should be arranged so that when the last plait is formed, and the plain part of the body pinned under the arm, the selvage-way or stripe should lie almost parallel with, or along with, the waist (see L M, in Fig. 11).

The backs, Fig. 14, are always selvage-way up the middle; the plaits, about three in number, should lie from the shoulder to the middle of the waist in a fan-like direction. They will almost form themselves properly at the top on the shoulder, if first properly pinned on the waist, and the material held up, and slightly pulled or shaken above the shoulder, with one hand, while the other arranges them. They will naturally fall in deeper folds below than above.

A WRAP HIGH DRESS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 15.

This has two fronts, to be cut out as follows:—

Lay the merino, or other material, selvage or stripe-wise from the top of the shoulder, A, to a little beyond the middle of the waist, so as to throw the body a little on the cross up the middle.

The plaits must be formed, while on the person, one after another, slanting from the shoulder, across the middle, to the opposite side of the waist. These plaits should be so folded, as to make the plain part, under the arm, fall selvage-wise along the band.

The back is made to correspond, the selvage is straight up the back, and the material being held tightly above the shoulder at the top, with one hand, the three or four plaits are the more easily arranged by the other, and should be folded over more deeply at the bottom than upon the shoulder. These plaits should exactly meet the others on the shoulder.

The backs and fronts join under the arm without side-pieces. In making up, the plaits should be secured on the shoulder, with a pipe or strap, and again secured about half a nail on each side of the shoulder. The fronts cross, or wrap over, and are well secured to the waistband.

A HIGH FULL GOWN, TO OPEN IN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 16, 17.

These are particularly suitable for house-maids, dairy or kitchen-maids, chair and washerwomen; they should be made of the strongest print, at 8_d._ or 1_s._ per yard. It is bad economy to buy a cheap poor material for a working dress, under the idea that it will do very well for common purposes, when it is of importance that they should stand a good deal of wear and tear.

For a young person, the skirt is in three breadths of extra-width print, of about eighteen nails; the seams must be sewed up, making one come in the front, which must overlap half a nail down the whole length of the skirt, leaving the hem or seam open for about four nails below the waist. The body is six pieces, having one back, two fronts, two side-pieces, and one collar.

The two fronts are selvage-wise up the middle, and are cut as follows:—Pin the material selvage-wise at A, and at the bottom, lay it in plaits or fullings along the shoulder, to lie towards the waist, and smooth the plain part to fit the shape, till it meets the side-piece, cut it off, and hollow it under the arm. The back-piece, Fig. 17, is in one piece with the selvage, to lie up the middle; therefore, pin it firmly at the middle of the top, A, and at the waist just below, B. Lay the material on each side in fullings or plaits, pinning them down here and there, and, after arranging them at the top, along the back and shoulders, smooth down the plain part, hollow out at the arm-holes, and cut along the shoulders. Cut the side-piece next, and then make a neat simple collar; one like Fig. 7, in Plate 13, would be very suitable. In making up, after cutting out your tight lining, lay each part of the gown upon each piece of the lining, and begin to stitch strongly together all the pieces, laying a piping up every seam, and over-casting the rough edges inside, to make them wear well and look neat. The sleeves are short (see Fig. 24, in Plate 12). The collar and arm-holes are also piped.

Make a broad hem up each side of the front, and put the body into the band; let the fulness be pretty even along the piping on the shoulder, but bring it rather towards the middle of the waistband, in front.

The fulness behind is regular along the shoulders and collar, but drawn towards the centre of the back, at the band. Sew the body on the skirt, put strings or bands, of the same material, of about one nail wide, to tie the dress at the throat. The waistband is one nail deep and about eleven nails long, and can either button or fasten with a strong hook and eye in front.

A HIGH BODY, TO OPEN IN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 18.

This shape is often worn by elderly ladies, sometimes by servants, and is convenient, as it enables the wearer to dress herself without the assistance of a maid. The gown is open down the two seams at the sides for about four or five nails, so that the front ties round the waist like an apron, being of course well fulled in front into a band, to which strings are attached. The slits at the sides form pocket holes.

The body is sewed on to the skirt behind and opens in front. It has one back, which, if full, is cut with the selvage-way or stripe to lie straight down from the neck to the waist, but if plain, it should be on the cross. The fronts are generally on the cross with the material cut to lie with the stripe or selvage-way, from the extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist. The fronts are continued so as to pin down at the waist, one across the other, over which the front breadth or apron ties.

PLAIN LOW BODY.

Pin the material with the selvage-way or stripe, to lie from the extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist, so as to throw the body quite on the cross up the middle, which is joined with a piping. The backs are always selvage-wise up the middle. Join the backs and fronts with a piping on the shoulder, also at the seams, for the side-pieces. Stitch up the plaits that are made at the bosoms.

ANOTHER FRENCH LOW PLAIN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 19.

This is in five pieces, two backs, one front, and two side-pieces. The front is all in one piece, and in cutting it out, the material is pinned with the selvage-way or stripe up the middle. Pin it firmly at A and B, at the top and bottom of the middle of the body. Lay the material along to the shoulders, and pin it down again at C. Slope with the scissors from the point of the shoulder to a peak down at the front. The backs are likewise cut selvage-wise up the middle, and peaked from the back to the shoulders: the side-pieces are joined to the front and back by a piping. Make the bosom plaits and stitch them up.

VARIOUS MODES OF TRIMMING LOW BODIES WHEN TIGHT TO THE FIGURE.

PLATE 14.

Tight or plain bodies require some ornament or finish to set them off, a few neat methods of putting on folds, &c., will therefore be explained.

Plate 14, Fig. 20, represents a plain body with the folds sewed on. These folds are in two parts one for each side of the body in front. They are cut crosswise and are only suitable to those gowns which are not of a washing material, they should be from nine to ten nails wide, and as long as will reach from the shoulder to the middle of the waist. In making them up stitch them firmly down on the shoulder in regular plaits, and again about a nail in front of the shoulder. Arrange them as regularly at the waist, sewing them firmly into the middle of the band, exactly to meet or correspond with the folds of the other side.

Plate 14, Fig. 21, represents a plain body with loose folds upon it, the body is made exactly like that of a petticoat, the front may or may not be in two parts, according to pleasure, and convenience; if there is a joining, a piping should be laid between the two parts. If the dress is of a washing material, the folds should be the straight way, and the cross-way if it is not.

The straight folds are merely a piece of muslin or print, six and a half or seven nails long and about seven nails wide, gathered at the top, and neatly biassed two or three times at intervals of half a nail; the upper gathering is then sewed very strongly on the shoulder, where the front joins the shoulder-strap; the bottom is simply hemmed. When worn, this piece is folded in large or small plaits, according to the taste of the wearer, and neatly pinned across under the waist ribbon. This method of making muslin, gingham, or print dresses, is very convenient for the washerwoman.

The loose cross-way folds are very similar. The piece of silk, or other material, must be six nails and a half or seven nails long, and nine nails wide. It is secured, both at the top and bottom, in the proper folds, as in this instance no advantage can accrue from the piece being left unconfined at the bottom, as in the washing gowns. The top is sewed on the shoulder, and, when worn, the folds are pinned under the waist ribbon, as in the kind described above.