Chapter VI: Women’s Shifts (8)

The circle at the top is five nails across, the side part is cut out of a circle in the same manner as that of Fig. 45, the outer circle being five nails across, and the inner one two nails; this circle is divided into four pieces; the band, Fig. 56, is one nail and a quarter broad, and eleven nails long before it is sewed up; the peak, Fig 55, is generally made of patent leather; it is part of a circle, five nails across, and is one nail and a quarter deep at the broadest part.

In making up, the circle is first lined with flannel and then with silk; it is stretched over a strong but not very thick wire at the edge, to keep it in shape, and a piping of cloth put on all round: the sides, Fig. 54, are then lined with soft leather, and sewed to the circle on the wrong side, before being joined together; the seams are next sewed up, and a thin hoop of whalebone put at the bottom of these sides, just where the band is to be joined on, round the head; the band is firmly stitched to it, which band is also lined with thin, but not very pliable leather: the peak is then put on; a lining of leather one nail and a quarter deep is sewed in the inside, to the inner part of which, a piece of silk is attached, with a string-case and cord to draw it up to the size of the head. Sometimes a band of black velvet, or of silver or gold lace is laid upon the cloth one, sometimes it is left quite plain. The strap under the chin is of patent leather, fastened at the side with a small buckle.

GENTLEMEN’S TRAVELLING CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 57, 58.

This is a particularly comfortable cap, and is easily made. It is composed of fine cloth of any dark colour, trimmed with fur.

Make a circle, seven nails across, and cut it into six parts; the brim is made either of patent leather, or of cloth, it must be three nails and a half long at the straight part or bottom of it, one and three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part, and rounded off at each end: the flaps or pieces for the ears are also one and three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part; they are cut in one length with the band, which goes behind the cap, and is one nail deep; the whole length, including the ear-flaps, is seven nails.

In making up, first join with a piping of the same, all the six divisions of the crown, fastening them at the top with a round button, and put in a lining of wadding, stiffened muslin, and any dark coloured silk; sew all these round the edge, and then put on the brim or peak: this, when of cloth, is made of two pieces the same size and shape; run them together at the edge on the wrong side, with a piping between them, turn them to the right side, put in a piece of stiff muslin, and a thin wadding, sew it on to the front of the cap at the edge, and again half a nail above, so that, though it can be pulled down over the eyes, it usually remains turned up, as in Fig. 57: the band behind, with the ear-flaps, is then sewed on; this is a piece of cloth, with a strip of dark fur or velvet laid on it, so that when the strings of the ear-flaps are tied under the chin, the fur lies against the throat and ears, and when not required, the strings are tied on the top of the head, the velvet or fur forming a kind of trimming to the cap.

A LADY’S RIDING CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 59.

This is made of velvet, and is simply a straight piece, a yard long and about eight nails deep, lined with flannel or wadding, buckram and silk, which is joined up at the two ends, and gathered on the one side, under a small flat silk or gold button, and on the other, into a velvet band, one nail deep, and made to fit the head. A silk bow and tassel (see Fig. 51) are put on at the top, and ribbon strings fasten under the chin, or not, according to pleasure.

A TRAVELLING CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 60.

This is a soft cap, and is generally made of cloth. It is formed of a circle, eight nails across, cut in eight parts, which are joined with pipings of the same, and fastened at the top with a knot or tassel. The crown is lined in a similar manner to Fig. 58, and the band, which must have buckram within the lining of silk or soft leather, is firmly stitched to it.

A NEAT BOY’S CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 61.

This is made of cloth or Holland. The top is a circle of five nails across, the head-piece is nine nails long, and one nail and a half deep when made up, it is plaited in very small exact folds, and therefore before it is made up, it must be four nails and a half broad: the brim or peak is of patent leather, and the strap under the chin of the same.

In making up, the top or crown must be wadded, stiffened with buckram, and lined: the head-piece is then prepared, by being folded, and the folds stitched upon a piece of stiff buckram, the proper length: the crown is sewed to it, the peak and strap put on, as in the Plate.

A TRAVELLING CAP FOR GENTLEMEN OR LADIES.

PLATE 19. FIG. 62, 63.

This is a very simple, and at the same time, a very good looking cap: it is made either of velvet, or of fine cloth, and when doubled, as in Fig. 62, forms nearly a square.

To make it, put in a wadding and lining, join it up behind, A B, make a string-case, A C, through which a silk cord must be run, which draws it up to the shape of a cap, and trim it round the edge or brim with some rich fur. The advantage of the string-case at the top is, that when not in use, it will pack quite flatly and take up little room.

THE WORKING MAN’S CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 64, 65, 66.

Fold a sheet of common brown paper to make a workman’s cap, as follows:—

Let it be a square of ten nails, double it across like a half-handkerchief, and crease it well; open it and cross it again the other way, open it again, double down the middle one way, and crease it well; on spreading it out, it will be marked according to the lines in Fig. 65. Measure from the centre on the cross lines, about one nail and three-quarters (see A B C D), next crease the paper from side to side through these points, thus:—one line through A B, another through C D, and again C A, and D B; this will form a square in the middle. Cut out a nail square at every corner, as in Fig. 66.

In folding it up, the square, A B C D, in the centre, forms the top of the cap, and the points, E F, are doubled according to the crosswise plait, and crossed in front towards each other, the other points, G H, are likewise crossed behind towards their opposite ends. The cap is then formed by merely turning up a piece all round to make it stand firmly. (Fig. 64.)

WOMEN’S BONNETS.

PLATE 20.

Bonnets being, like gowns, dependent in a great measure on the fancy and whim of the day, will only be treated of as to the general modes of making them up, and a few of the very plainest shapes given.

Bonnets are made of velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, book-muslin, chip, gingham, and glazed calico.

The foundations are either pasteboard, buckram, stiff muslin, or willow.

Bonnets are kept in shape by means of wire, chip, or whalebone.

They are lined either with the material of which the bonnet is made, or with some other, lighter or warmer, according to taste, and the time of the year; but care must be taken that the colours either harmonize or decidedly contrast. When the lining is white, a sheet of tissue paper is put between it and the bonnet, whether it be of silk, or only of straw; this makes the white material, whatever it may be, look a much purer colour than it otherwise would do. A piece of demet or of thin wadding should always be laid between the foundation and the silk, or other material of which it is made, unless that material is very thick.

Bonnets may be lined with ribbon in the following manner:—

Take a piece similar to the trimming, and long enough to be run plainly to the outer edge of the bonnet all round, the other side of the ribbon is finely gathered, and being drawn up to the size of the inside of the bonnet, it is neatly sewed to it, forming a kind of border or trimming.

When a bonnet is lined plainly, or the cross-way, it takes half a yard cut crosswise. If a curtain is required in addition, three-quarters of a yard, cut the straight way, must be purchased.

In fitting your lining, lay it across the bonnet, so that as little as possible is wasted or cut off at the corner; put small pins all round the edge, and the inside also, so as to keep it in its place, cutting off the superfluous quantity and then sew it, concealing your stitches as much as possible between the lining and the bonnet.

To line a bonnet the straight way, so that, though plain at the edge, it is a little fulled or plaited into the crown, about three-quarters of a yard is required, influenced of course in some degree, both by the depth of the poke and its width. This lining is very easily put in; sew it round the edge on the wrong side as far as the ears or rounded part of the bonnet, by which means the stitches are quite concealed, then turn it, and sew the rest as neatly as you can; the lining looks the best plaited into the crown; to do this equally, begin in the middle, making a perfectly straight fold, the rest on each side should incline a little to the centre, and be very small and regular.

Bonnets may be trimmed in a great variety of ways with the material of which they are made, cut crosswise and either hemmed or lined, so as to form a kind of ribbon, with velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, gauze, muslin, or ribbon.

Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23

Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 25

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 9 Fig. 9 Fig. 24 Fig. 26

Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 27 Fig. 28

Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31

Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 16 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 36

Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 35 Fig. 40 Fig. 41

Fig. 45 Fig. 49 Fig. 51 Fig. 52 Fig. 39

Fig. 42 Fig. 46 Fig. 48 Fig. 53

Fig. 43 Fig. 44 Fig. 47 Fig. 50 Fig. 54]

Bows to be worn in front, or at the side, are generally made up and sewed upon a piece of wire ribbon, which gives them firmness, and makes them keep in their place and shape.

Velvet or plush trimmings are generally lined with satin or silk of the same shade. The colour of the ribbon, if not an exact match with that of the bonnet, should be darker.

Curtains may be made either of the material that lines the bonnet or ribbon. For the former, the silk or satin is cut the cross-way, and is from one nail and a half to two nails deep; it is hemmed at the edge, and sometimes a straw plait or silk cord is laid on above the hem; they may be either plaited on to the bonnet in large full plaits, or hemmed, and a piece of ribbon, exactly the length that the curtain is to be, run in; this looks better than the plaiting, and does not so soon become flattened.

Ribbon curtains are made in two ways, the one by merely plaiting or gathering a straight piece of ribbon, and hemming the ends; the other, and much the prettiest method, is also the most complicated. Fold the end of your ribbon down like a half-handkerchief, Fig. 13, and cut it off, thus leaving a cross-way end; fold it again, straight down the ribbon, measuring it so as to be doubled the same depth top and bottom, thus forming a piece like Fig. 14: cut off a number of these pieces, which must then be run very flatly together, so that the cross-way parts of the ribbon are at the top and bottom, and the border or edge lies in oblique or slanting lines across the curtain, Fig. 15, 16; one end will be pointed or sloped outwards, in order to make the other like it, the half square cut off at first, must be joined to it. The number of pieces of course must depend on the breadth of the ribbon, the whole curtain should be about three-quarters of a yard long; when the parts are joined together, hem your curtain top and bottom, running a ribbon in at the top, in order to full it properly to the bonnet.

OLD WOMAN’S BONNET.

PLATE 20. FIG. 1, 2, 3.

This is a comfortable shape for an old woman, and is very easily made. It is in two pieces, the front or poke is made of pasteboard, covered with silk or any dark coloured material. To cut the pattern of it, take a piece of paper, four nails and a half square when folded (see Fig. 2), let D be the doubled part, and round it off gradually at the corner, A. The crown is cut out according to Fig. 3.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From B to C the doubled part | 8 | | From B to G | 8½ | | From G to F | 2 | | From F to E | 4 | | Then slope gradually to C from E | | +----------------------------------+--------+ */

In making up, having previously cut out two pieces the proper size to cover the poke, one for the outside, and one for the lining, run them together on the wrong side, round that part which is to form the edge of the bonnet, leaving open that which is to be sewed to the crown, and slip the pasteboard into it: then begin the crown, Fig. 3, hem it at the bottom and make a runner from F E to H, and another, one nail or one nail and half above it, and put in a string; set the front of the crown, C E, on to the poke, either in gathers or small plaits, draw up the runners behind to the proper size to fit the head, and fasten them; sew each end of the curtain a little way on the ends of the poke as in the Plate; put a ribbon on across the front, and strings, with a bow at the top; one may be added behind, at pleasure.

BONNET FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 4, 5, 6.

These bonnets are made of black, white, grey, or fawn coloured silk. They are cut out as follows:—

For the pattern of the poke, Fig. 6, let your paper be doubled at D, which part must be four nails and a half long; from A to B is three nails and three-quarters; slope off the front at the corner. For the crown, Fig. 5, let the doubled part, D, be eight nails long, and from C to E is four nails and a half; it is gradually sloped from F, as in the Plate.

In making up, run the pieces cut for the outside and lining together at the edge, on the wrong side, and having turned them, slip in the pasteboard; plait the front of the crown into the poke in very small exact folds, leaving it quite plain for some distance above the ears; make a narrow runner behind of one nail and a half in depth, to form a curtain, and put on ribbon strings the same colour as the bonnet.

A NEAT BONNET FOR A SERVANT.

PLATE 20. FIG. 7, 8, 9.

To cut out the poke of this bonnet, Fig. 8, which is of pasteboard, take a doubled piece of paper, five nails wide, by four nails and a half long, letting D be the doubled part.

SCALE.

+-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 2 | | From A to F | 1 | | From the corner to E | 3 | | Above the corner to C | 2¼ | +-----------------------+--------+ */

Curve from B to C, slope from C to E, round from E to F.

The foundation of the crown, Fig. 9, is of buckram, or willow; let your doubled paper be three nails and a half wide, by four nails and a quarter long; D is the doubled part.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the corner to C | 2¾ | | From the corner to H | 2¼ | | From the corner to I | 1½ | | J above the corner | 1 | +----------------------+--------+ */

Curve from G to H, cut from H to I, and from I to J.

The circular top or patch, is cut to fit the bonnet.

In making up, cover each part with silk, laying a thin piece of wadding between the silk and the foundation, then sew them very firmly together, with strong silk or waxed thread, and put a Persian or muslin lining in the crown. Silk cut the cross-way and laid in moderate sized plaits may be folded round the crown of the bonnet, which has a very neat appearance. The more simply it is trimmed, the better it looks; a ribbon across, to form strings, and one bow behind or at the side, is quite sufficient.

A SCHOOL GIRL’S BONNET.

PLATE 20. FIG. 10, 11, 12.

To cut out the poke, Fig. 11, when laid open, let your paper be eight nails wide, by seven long.

SCALE.

+-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to S is | 3¾ | | From S to B | 2½ | | From T to C | 4 | | Above the corner to E | 1½ | | From the side to F | 1 | | From the top to F | 2¼ | | From Z to Y | 3½ | +-----------------------+--------+ */

Cut from F to E, round from F to C, and from C, through Y, and B, to A, curve A Z F.

The crown or head-piece, Fig. 12, is thus formed; let your paper be six nails wide, by seven nails and a half long.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From H to G | 2¼ | | From the corner to G | ¾ | | From the corner to K | 2½ | | J is from the corner | 1 | | From the corner to I | 2 | +----------------------+--------+ */

Slope G to K, shape according to the Plate from K to J, cut from J to I, curve from I to H.

The top or circle is cut exactly to fit this crown.

This bonnet is made of glazed calico; the poke is of pasteboard. If many of them are required, it is the best economy to cut out all the pokes at once, and then all the crowns, as they will fit into each other. Make it up as follows:—

After joining the two ends of the head-piece, wire and sew the circle into it, then tack the calico on the crown or circle; then tack a piece of calico outside the head-piece, piping it up the joinings; run on the lining of the poke, after which the outside cover is put on and tacked strongly at the edge; the trimming will conceal the stitches; sew the trimming, which is merely a cross-way hem one nail deep and piped to the inside of the edge of the poke with small stitches, then turn it over on the outside and sew it neatly down to the upper calico, taking care not to go through the pasteboard. Fasten the poke to the crown, and then put in the lining, making it to draw, and sewing it on the inside. The trimming, piping and bow, are all cut the cross-way; the strings are half a yard long, cut straight. One bonnet takes one sheet of 3_d._ pasteboard, and about one yard and a half of 4_d._ glazed calico, including the trimming; with the wire it comes to 9_d._ prime cost.

For winter wear, it is desirable to line both poke and crown with wadding or flannel.

A neat simple trimming for children’s bonnets, is made as follows:—

Cut strips of glazed calico, one nail wide, fold them so that the raw edges shall lie at the back; making each strip somewhat less than half a nail broad, and then with a long needleful of coloured thread, run on the right side of it, up and down in vandykes; when done, draw it up, and it forms a pretty sort of edging.

OILED SILK HOODS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 17, 18.

These hoods are convenient for persons who travel much, or go excursions in open carriages, as a protection against rain; they are made of oiled silk, either black, or light coloured, the former looks best.

The shape is very simple, the hood consisting of four parts: the front is a straight piece, one yard long, and six nails and a half broad. The horse-shoe, Fig. 18, which is rather a different shape to the usual one, is six nails and a half long, four nails wide at the top, and five nails at the bottom; the curtain or tippet is half a yard deep, and one yard and three-quarters long; the band is one nail broad, ten nails long.

In making up, the head-piece is run to the horse-shoe quite plainly, and the front, or part round the face is hemmed or bound; it is then set into the band, the horse-shoe being plainly put in, and the rest plaited in small folds; the curtain is sewed on in small plaits all round, the band lined with silk or ribbon, and a large hook and eye or chain is put on. The curtain is either hemmed or bound all round.

CALÈCHE.

PLATE 20. FIG. 19, 20.

These are worn by ladies who walk short distances to evening parties, and are better than a bonnet as they do not crush or disturb the cap or head dress.

A calèche is best made of dark silk or satin, and lined with the same colour; it is in three parts. The front, or head-piece, is seven nails and a half wide, and one yard long; the horse-shoe, Fig. 19, is five nails and a half long by four nails and a half broad, at the widest part, sloped down to four nails at the bottom; the curtain is one yard and a quarter long, and one nail and a half deep. A lining is cut out exactly similar to the outside; and it is made up as follows:—

Run the edges of the head-piece and lining together on the wrong side, and turn them, put in a piece of whalebone the whole length of the front, viz:—one yard, about half a quarter of a nail broad, and run on the other side of it, to secure it, leave a space of one nail and a half broad, and make a runner the proper width to receive a second whalebone, and then, leaving the same distances, make runners for two more; the spaces between are quilted, as in the Plate, to give a little firmness to the whole.

Between the fourth whalebone and the outer edge is an interval of two nails and a half, and this is not quilted like the rest. The horse-shoe is then made, the outside and lining being run together, a whalebone is put in, (see Fig. 19), at the edge, and again another, one nail within. The head-piece is then gathered (the rough edges of both the satin and lining being turned within, so as to make it perfectly neat at the inside), and sewed to the horse-shoe, the fulness being chiefly towards the top. It is then gathered at the neck, and bound with ribbon, or a piece of the same material, which form a string-case; and the curtain is set on, lined or not, according to pleasure. A ribbon, about one yard long, is sewn on the front of the calèche, three nails from the bottom on each side, forming a kind of loop, by which to hold it forward when it is worn.

CLOAKS.

PLATE 20.

Cloaks may be made of satin, silk, cloth, merino, shawling, both the real and the imitation, Scotch-plaid, Orleans or common stuff. The choice of materials is of course influenced by the purpose for which the cloak is intended to be used; for instance, carriage or travelling cloaks are plain of a thicker substance, and have less work in them than those used for walking in.

Satin cloaks have frequently a velvet cape or collar, sometimes they are trimmed with broad velvet hems, laid on all round, or with fur, and occasionally lined with fur also. Silk and merino cloaks may likewise be trimmed with velvet, cut or uncut, plush or fur, and lined with the same, or they may be made perfectly plain. As a silk cloak is at all times a costly article of dress, and, with care, will last a long time, it is worth while to have the silk a very good one; it should be soft and rich, not liable to crease: levantine, satinette, or satin silk, are the best; and the colour should be one that will not easily fly, change, or spot; dark shades generally look the best, as black, violet, myrtle-green, or deep marone.

Satin, silk, and fine merino cloaks should be lined with sarsenet, either the same colour, or some well chosen contrast: but as these sarsenet linings cost a good deal for a full sized cloak, two old silk gowns, nicely picked to pieces, and either washed or dyed, would be a good substitute, where economy is an object: when this is done, it is a good plan to turn a deep hem of the outside silk over the edge, on each side in front, or it is better still to let the two front breadths of the lining be of new silk.

Cloaks may either be simply lined with a piece of flannel between the silk and the lining, which makes them light and suitable for walking in the autumn and the spring, or they may be lined and wadded; this is done by laying breadths either of thin flannel or lining muslin, cut the same size as the breadths of silk on a table, and placing upon them sheets of wadding, so as to cover them entirely; then with a long needleful of thread, the wadding should be tacked or basted in wide stitches backwards and forwards in sort of vandykes upon the muslin or flannel, in order that it may always keep in its place, which otherwise it would not do. The flannel with the wadding thus sewed to it, is then put between the two silks and the seams run up.

LADY’S SILK CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 21.

It consists of six breadths of silk, the proper length to fit the person for whom it is made, i. e. from the collar-bone to the top of the shoe. Cut a shoulder-piece the shape of Fig. 1, or 4, Plate 13, making it to fit, with flannel and silk lining to suit; next cut a collar, Fig. 7, Plate 13, with a stiff muslin and silk lining; then cut the cape, Fig. 15 and 16, Plate 13, with only a silk lining.

In making up, having laid the lining and wadding together as described above, run up the seams; cut the arm-holes one nail and a half from the seam between the first and second breadths, and two nails and a quarter below the shoulder-piece; each arm-hole is three nails and a quarter long.

The shoulder-piece is next made, by running the silk and lining together, with the wadding and flannel between them on the wrong side, and then turning it to the other; the three back breadths of the skirt are then hollowed out to fit the shoulder-piece, next full the whole into the shoulder-piece, letting the two front breadths, reach to the shoulder only, while the rest is sewed to the back. A hem one nail and three-quarters deep of cross-way velvet, cut or uncut, or an edging of fur may be put on, up the fronts according to pleasure. The back is then plaited in behind, at a proper distance below the shoulder-piece, to suit the waist, say four nails, and a band long enough to go round the waist is laid upon these folds, and drawn through two large button-holes, one at each end of the plaiting; this band hooks or buttons in front, inside the cloak. Another way of confining it at the waist, is, by laying a ribbon along the inside of the back breadth, at the proper distance from the top, thus forming a kind of string-case, through which two ribbons are passed, fastened at one end, and drawn out at the other, of the runner; these ribbons tie round the waist at the inside. The collar having previously been lined, is then set on, and small pieces, three nails and a quarter long and half a nail broad, are lined, piped all round, and sewed on one side of each arm-hole, so as to lay over and cover it when the arms are not in. The cloak is fastened at the throat either by long silk cords the same colour, with tassels at the ends, or by a gilt or bronze chain.

The capes of these cloaks are frequently made loose from them, in which case they may be worn separately as mantles or short cloaks; when they are fastened on, they are sewed to the shoulder-piece.

LADY’S MANTELET OR SHORT CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 22.

These are made of velvet, satin, silk, cloth, merino or shawling; they are lined with silk, muslin, or glazed calico, and trimmed with lace, fringe, velvet, satin or fur; they are very convenient and light for walking, or going out in an evening. A mantelet reaches to a little above the knee, and fastens in the front with hooks and eyes; it is made exactly like the cape of a large cloak, with five breadths in it, a little hollowed round the neck, and set into a band, or a collar turned over.

LARGE CARRIAGE CLOAK OR ROQUELAURE.

PLATE 20. FIG. 23.

Used by ladies in an open carriage, to put on in case of rain. It is made of plaid or some woollen material, and consists of five breadths of eleven nails wide, and one yard and a half long; two arm-holes are made five nails from the top of the cloak, and five nails long, to these arm-holes are sewed loose sleeves, eight nails long, and four nails wide, when sewed up; they are merely attached to the cloak by being sewed to the top of the arm-hole, so that they may be put on, or left to hang down at pleasure. The cloak is lined with flannel and glazed calico, or calimanco, it is set into a band at the neck, of about ten nails long, and a collar and one or more deep capes put on. It fastens at the throat with a gilt or bronze chain.

LADY’S NEAT GARDEN OR SERVANT’S CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 24.

This may be made either of merino or Scotch-plaid; if the former, it has three breadths in it, of seventeen nails wide; if the latter, it requires five breadths, eleven nails wide.

The shoulder-piece is like Fig. 3 or 4, Plate 13; it is lined and wadded, as are also two capes the same shape as the shoulder-piece cut larger; the collar is like Fig. 7, Plate 13. The whole cloak is lined with black or coloured glazed calico; arm-holes are left between the first and second breadths; they are four nails long, and three nails and a half from the bottom of the shoulder-piece; a small piece of the material, four nails long and three-quarters of a nail wide, lined and piped all round, is set on along each slit or arm-hole.

These cloaks can be purchased ready-made at the mercer’s shop, and are from 9s. to 18s. each.

OLD WOMAN’S CLOAK AND HOOD.

PLATE 20. FIG. 25, 27.

These are generally made of scarlet cloth, or grey duffel, and have only one breadth in them. The cloth is about three yards wide, and it is cut as follows:—

The width of the cloak is made in that of the material, therefore, when the proper length for the cloak is cut off the piece (say one yard and eight nails), it is doubled exactly in half the width, and then the selvages being laid together, they are sloped off at the top, perhaps from four to five nails gradually to about four nails above the bottom; the two corners in front are also rounded off at the bottom, so that a great part of it, as well as the two fronts are slightly on the cross, which renders binding or hemming not absolutely necessary, though the cloak looks much better when finished with a neat binding of scarlet or black ribbon; the top is set into a band the proper length to go round the neck, and a few plaits are made.

When two cloaks are cut out together, which is the most economical plan, the hoods will come out of the sloping at the neck, but this cannot be, if there is only one.

The hood is very simple, and is thus formed. Cut a paper pattern of half the hood, exactly like Fig. 27, and lay it on the cloth, taking care that D is upon the doubled part of it. In making it up, it is gathered or plaited from the top, or doubled part to A; the rest to B, is simply sewed up; B to C, is the part attached to the cloak, and the front, or what goes round the face, is neatly bound with ribbon. These hoods may be lined or not, at pleasure.

SCHOOL GIRL’S CAPE OR CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 26.

These are made of plaid or other stuff, lined with flannel and calico, and are good things for school girls to wear at church and elsewhere.

SCALE.

+---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ | ———————— | 1st. | 2nd. | 3rd. | 4th. | | | Size | Size | Size | Size | +---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ | |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| |Usual width of plaid | 11 | 12 | | | |Number of breadths | 2½ | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Depth to be cut down the selvage | 8 | 10 | 12 | 13 | |Collar like Fig. 7, Plate 13, | | | | | | cut according to size | | | | | +---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ */

The skirt of the cloak having been lined with coarse flannel and glazed calico, and the shoulder-piece being piped all round with a pretty thick piping, the skirt is plaited evenly to the shoulder-piece in handsome plaits, and the flannel being laid against it, the calico linings are neatly felled down over the plaits, so as to hide the rough edges; the collar, lined also with flannel and calico, is sewed on, and a piece of tape or strong calico laid upon the part where it joins the shoulder-piece at the top. A button is put on at the throat, on the right hand side, and another, four nails below, and small squares of plaid doubled, with each a button-hole made in them, put to correspond on the other side.

By lengthening the skirt, this would make a very suitable cloak for a woman.

A more economical cloak, of this pattern, may be made of green baize; without a collar, it costs very little, but of course it does not wear nearly so well as the plaid ones.

BOY’S CLOAK.

A cloak or deep cape for a boy, may be made very simply as follows:—

Cut a large circle of cloth or plaid, the size you wish the cloak to be, and in the centre of it, make a smaller circle for the neck; cut from this small circle to the edge in a straight line, which will form the opening in front. Gather or plait the neck into a broad band, and it is completed. A cloak thus made will hang in full handsome folds, and be very warm.

SHAWLS.

Shawls may be made of various materials, velvet, plush, silk, cloth, duffel, plaid, or printed flannel, and they may either be square or in the form of a half-handkerchief; they are variously lined and trimmed, according to taste and circumstances.

CARRIAGE OR DRESS SHAWL.

This is either velvet, plush, or satin, and is half a square of one yard, twelve nails, or less, to suit the figure of the person, and the width of the material. It is lined with white or coloured sarsenet, and trimmed at the edge of the two straight sides, with a satin or silk hem, from one to one nail and a half deep, cut crosswise, lace, fringe, or fur.

LADY’S WALKING SHAWL.

Silk, cloth, or merino, are equally appropriate for this purpose. It may either be a square of one yard, twelve nails, or half of it, and is lined with silk. When the whole square is preferred, and when a hem of velvet, satin, or silk is laid on, care must be taken to arrange it so that when the shawl is doubled handkerchief-wise, the hems of both folds shall be seen at the same time, one lying nearly over the other, for which purpose, after laying the border on two successive sides of the square, turn your shawl over before sewing the border of the remaining two sides on. Thus half the trimming is on one, and half on the other side of the shawl.

These shawls, like the one mentioned above, may be trimmed in various ways.

SHAWL FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

This is a square of about one yard, twelve nails, and is made either of fine white, or very pale drab, grey, or other quiet coloured cloth, with a satin ribbon, the same shade and one nail broad, laid on all round it. It may be lined or not, according to pleasure.

QUILTED SHAWL.

This is half a square of silk of about one yard, twelve nails, and has a very neat appearance, besides being both light and warm. It is thus made:—

Lay wadding, demet, or flannel between the outside silk and the lining, which should be either white or some pretty suitable colour: it must then be run in three or four rows round the edge, and the middle quilted in diamonds, or any other pattern, according to taste.

CASHMERE SHAWL.

Purchase a piece of coloured Cashmere or Indiana, one yard, six nails square, to form the centre of the shawl, and make a very narrow hem all round it; then take shawl bordering, or four strips of Cashmere of some other colour, which will harmonize, or contrast well with the centre; these should be from two to three nails broad, and one yard, twelve nails long; they are likewise hemmed on both sides, and then sewed to the square; the corners are joined obliquely, or from point to point. A fringe should be set on all round. This coloured border must be put on, so that when the shawl is worn, the two corners shall fall properly over each other, as described in the “Lady’s Walking Shawl.” Coloured gimp is sometimes laid on over the joinings.

MOURNING SHAWLS.

These may be made in two ways, according to the depth of the mourning. The first and deepest kind is half a square of black silk, entirely covered with black crape, and lined with black sarsenet.

The other is also a half square of rich, but not very bright black silk, with a hem of crape from one to two nails deep, laid on the two straight sides.

PLAIN WALKING SHAWL.

This may be made of plaid, printed flannel, or duffel, and is suitable for ladies, children, and servants.

Cut half a square of the proper size, line it with silk, or calico, and run it at about one nail from the edge, on the two straight sides, so as to keep it flat, and make a sort of hem: this shawl is made to fit the neck, for this end, instead of hollowing it out, run on the cross-way part in the centre, a little string-case, in a semi-circular form, and by passing a ribbon through, it is drawn up to fit the neck, making a sort of frill or standing up collar. This shawl is plaited in at the bottom of the waist, and strings, or a band sewed on at the inside.

Arm-holes may also be made in it at pleasure.

TRAVELLING SHAWL.

A warm shawl or handkerchief for travelling, may be made of a square of wadding doubled in half, and covered with silk or muslin.

SPENCERS.

PLATE 20.

Spencers are made of silk, cloth, muslin, and print, and are worn with low frocks, by children, to walk out in.

PLAIN SPENCER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 28, 29.

From its simplicity, this is suited to very young children, as well as to school girls, or young servants.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| ———————— | 1st. |Child of |
| | Size. |4 years. |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of the body, | | |
| cut width-wise of the material | 12 | 15 |
|Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 3 | 3½ |
|When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 1 | 1½ |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1¼ | 1½ |
|Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ½ | ½ |
|Width of sleeve | 4 | 6 |
|Length of ditto | 4 | 6 |
|Neck hollowed out | ¼ | ¼ |
|Length of band or collar | 6 | 6 |
|Depth of ditto | 1 | 1 |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| ———————— |Child of| Girl of |
| |6 years.| 12 yrs. |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| | Nails. |Yds. nls.|
|Length of the body, | 16 | 1 5 |
| cut width-wise of the material | 16 | 1 5 |
|Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 4 | 5 |
|When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 2 | 2 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1¾ | 2¼ |
|Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ¾ | ¾ |
|Width of sleeve | 8 | 8 |
|Length of ditto | 8 | 10 |
|Neck hollowed out | ½ | ½ |
|Length of band or collar | 8 | 9 |
|Depth of ditto | 1½ | 2 |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+

In making, sew up the shoulders, make up the sleeves, and set them in, a little fulled at the top. Make a string-case at the wrist at about half or three-quarters of a nail from the bottom of the sleeve, which, when drawn, forms a frill. Gather it equally into the band or collar; for stout children, small gussets may be put in the neck. It is either hemmed or set into a band at the bottom; sometimes a frill is sewed on round the waist, sometimes the spencer is cut one nail longer to admit of a runner being put one nail above the bottom, so as to form a frill.

DRESS SPENCER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 30, 31.

This is a very pretty shape for ladies’ children, but as it must be cut out to fit the figure, only one size, for a child from two to four years old, will be given. It may be made of kerseymere, cloth, cambric, or jaconet muslin.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+
| | Yds. nls. |
|Length of body, width-way of the material | 1 0 |
|Depth of body cut down the selvage | 2 |
|When doubled in four, slit for the arm-hole | 2 |
|Cut into the material for the arm-hole | ¾ |
|For collar, see Plate 13, Fig. 17 | |
|For sleeves, see Plate 12, Fig. 1 | |
|Length of band | 10 |
|Depth of ditto | 1 |
|Length of robing, from the back over the shoulder | |
| to the front | 12 |
|Smallest width of ditto | ½ |
|Greatest width of ditto | 2 |
|For shoulder-piece, see Plate 13, Fig. 5 | |
+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+

In making up, supposing the spencer to be of cambric muslin, sew a piece of strong insertion-work to the backs and front of the shoulder-piece, simply hemming that part of it which goes over the shoulder; full the body evenly into the insertion-work, both before and behind, leaving it perfectly plain under the arm-holes; the sleeve is next gathered into the shoulder-piece, and sewed plainly into the arm-hole; the body is next fulled into the band. In the band, on each side behind, is a little runner of about two nails from the ends, through which a bobbin is run, which comes out through an oylet-hole, at about a quarter of a nail from the end; it fastens also with a button or with hooks and eyes: up the backs of both shoulder-pieces and body a broad hem is made, in which are buttons and button-holes to correspond. The robings are next put on, a little fulled at the back and front, and a good deal over the shoulders: the robing at the back is sewed immediately below the insertion-work; it is one nail and a half deep, which increases to its fullest breadth over the shoulders, and is gradually narrowed off again to the band in front. The collar, which is trimmed with neat work or a frill, is then set on. The sleeves are made and put in.

TIPPET AND SLEEVES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 32, 33, 34, 35.

These are very convenient for children to wear in the summer, as they are easily put off and on. They are made of jaconet or cambric muslin, gingham, or print, to suit the frock.

To cut the front, Fig. 33, let your paper be five nails and three-quarters long, and three nails and three-quarters wide, when folded in two. D is the doubled part.

SCALE.

+-----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the corner to L | 2 |
| Above the corner to T | 1 |
| From the side to V | ½ |
| From the top to V | ¾ |
| From the corner to S | 1¾ |
| From S to Z | 1½ |
| From Z to N | ¾ |
+-----------------------+--------+

Curve from L to T, again from T to V; cut from V to S; slope from S to N. The part marked N, is for the neck; S V, for the shoulder; V T, the flap or shoulder-piece.

For the back, Fig. 35, let your paper be three nails wide and four nails long.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the bottom to A | 1¼ |
| From B to C | ¾ |
| From C to F | 2 |
| Leaving to G | 1 |
| From H to K | 1 |
+----------------------+--------+

Cut from H to A; slope from A to B; cut from B to F; curve from F to half a nail below G; N is the neck; S the shoulder.

For the little flap or shoulder-piece, Fig. 32, take a piece of paper, letting it be one nail and three-quarters long, when doubled, and one nail and a half deep; at the opposite side to the doubled part, mark the point A one quarter of a nail from the side, and one-third of a nail from the bottom; cut in a straight line from the top to A, and slope gradually from A to the bottom.

In making up, sew the shoulders of the two backs to those of the front, set in the two shoulder-flaps, fulling them in the middle, gather the front into the space of one nail, setting it into a band, which is about one-third of a nail, when doubled, and nine nails long, made to button behind; the backs are also gathered, and sewed to the band at each end, at a proper distance, say about three nails from the middle. The Plate represents the tippet as if the sides were not attached to the band, observe, however, that the bottom, A, is to be sewed to the part marked B, of the band. On the top of the tippet is set a collar, according to fancy; Fig. 19, Plate 13, is that generally preferred. Sleeves cut according to Fig. 1, Plate 12, are then made; they are set into a band at the top, and then sewed on to the fullest part or middle, under the flap, for the space of half a nail.

These tippets may be trimmed with braid, if made of cloth or kerseymere; when they are of muslin, with narrow work or edging.

NECK HANDKERCHIEFS.

Many persons wear net or muslin handkerchiefs within their dress, and under the collar or habit-shirt, and for those liable to be soon heated, or who are engaged in warm or dusty employments, it is a particularly good plan to do so, especially if the dress is not of a washing material, as it keeps the body clean and nice much longer than it otherwise could be. Elderly persons should always wear these handkerchiefs, as there is something delicate and cleanly in their having what will wash next the skin.

Muslin handkerchiefs may be purchased, woven for the purpose, with borders, at from about 6_d._ to 2_s._, but the cheap ones are not worth buying, they soon tear in the washing, and look thick and cottony; the fine ones are so costly that it is better economy to have squares of muslin cut from the piece; these, like the bordered ones, may either be worn double, or the square may be cut in two, which most people prefer. The muslin should be yard wide, not very coarse, nor yet extremely fine, if wanted for common wear, but a thin transparent muslin should be selected; that which is called India book, having a yellowish white cast, is preferable to the blue muslins, which are apt to look heavy and clothy when washed. Real India muslin is the best, but it is too costly for general wear.

The extreme points of the half square should be cut off, or turned up, which is a good plan for the back, as it makes it stronger; and after hemming the handkerchief all round, a tape is set on behind, to go round the waist and tie in front.

For net handkerchiefs, the best width of the net is from one yard and two nails to one yard and four nails; it should be of a medium fineness, not too close, or it will lose its clearness after washing. In making net handkerchiefs, it is a good plan to run a hem of book muslin, of about half or a quarter of a nail broad, on the two straight sides, which prevents the handkerchief running up in the washing; on the cross side, of course, a narrow hem is made, as the muslin would shew in the wearing, and would look untidy. The points should be cut off, and a tape sewed on behind.

Net handkerchiefs are, on the whole, more economical than muslin, as they wear longer.

POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS.

These are made of French cambric, fine lawn, Scotch cambric, cotton, or silk; the former are chiefly worn by ladies, and the latter by gentlemen; lawn and Scotch cambric are used by young persons and children; cotton handkerchiefs are confined to the working classes.