Chapter VI: Women’s Shifts (3)

The broad hem here is surrounded by a deep crimped frill of about a nail broad. These aprons are generally made of jaconet or cambric muslin, and the frill of cambric or lawn. They are very suitable for ladies to wear in a morning when cutting out, or in the housekeeper’s room.

PLATE 11. FIG. 9.

This is a pretty evening apron, made with a broad hem, and muslin insertion-work let in all round, inside which, coloured ribbon may or may not be run. Edging, either of lace or worked muslin, is put on all round.

APRON POCKETS.

These vary very much, some being laid on the apron as in Fig. 3, 4, and 6; others put on at the back, a slit being made in the apron to correspond with the place of the pockets. These last are made as in Fig. P, from a long double piece, which, being sewed up, is cut diagonally or crosswise, from A to B, and forms two pockets, the part cut being sewed to the slit of the apron. The whole length of the narrow piece, before it is cut, is six nails, and the width, when double, two nails. The slit in the apron is neatly hemmed, and a trimming of ribbon or silk put round it, with a bow at the bottom, or a fringe and tassels.

In Fig. 3 the pocket is a piece of two nails and a half deep and five nails wide. This piece is plaited in regular folds at the top to a lining of only two nails and a half deep, and the same width. The bottom is fulled nearly to a point in small folds, and the lining, being turned in to the same shape, is sewed to it with a piping. The pocket is then stitched firmly on to the apron, and trimmed according to fancy. One or three small bows are put on the pocket.

In Fig. 4 the pocket is cut in the shape of a heart, and put plainly on the apron. It is about two nails and three-quarters wide, and two nails and a half deep. The pocket is piped or trimmed with edging.

In Fig. 6 the pocket is particularly neat and pretty, being made of folds of the same material as the apron, with a coloured piping all round it, and three bows the same colour as the piping.

COMMON APRONS.

The simplest kind, and that generally worn by working men, is a yard wide or more, hemmed at the bottom and at the top, with a string run through to tie round the waist. It is thus worn by brewers, &c.

PLATE 11. FIG. 10.

This is a simple shape, and the one most in use. It is either plaited or gathered into the band, which is about a nail deep. These aprons are usually worn by all servants and women while at work. Blue, check, and brown linen are most used for scouring and cleaning; white linen, Holland, and print, for less dirty employments. Ladies wear them of silk or muslin, with or without pockets.

PLATE 11. FIG. 11.

This is a pretty apron, often worn by girls from eight to sixteen or eighteen years of age. The bib is made of the proper size to fit in front, between the shoulders of the wearer, coming down in a slope to the waist. These bibs may be plain, or they are ornamented with tucks or folds, either upright or length-wise. The shoulder-strap may be of the same material, or of tape or ribbon. The apron is gathered evenly, or plaited so as to reach to A on each side, which is situated exactly between the bottom of the bib and the shoulder-strap behind.

PLATE 11. FIG. 12.

May be worn either as a common or as a pretty dress apron, according to the material and trimming. It may be made of silk, coloured muslin, or print. After being properly gathered into the band, two shoulder-straps, in the form of four lappets, are cut out, either pointed, as in A, or rounded, as in B. These lappets may be piped, and either edged with lace or fringe, or left plain. For a full size, the lappet is five nails along the selvage, from D to C, and one nail and three-quarters from C to B. The two straps are sewed together at C, and fastened with a bow of ribbon. The lappet is piped all round with a strong cord, to make it wear well.

PLATE 11. FIG. 13.

This shape is much worn by men servants, apothecaries, grocers, &c., and is simply gathered into a band, leaving a piece of two nails unattached to it, A B, which is hemmed at the top, and falls negligently down.

A COOKING APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 14.

This is a neat pattern for a housekeeper, cook, or kitchen-maid. The bib is quite plain, and pins to the gown at the corners. The size given in the Plate is suitable for a girl, but the bib should be cut to suit the wearer at once, and not made by guess. The apron is made of check or strong linen.

A PANTRY APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 15.

A very good shape for men servants to wear when trimming lamps, cleaning shoes and knives, &c. The apron is about a yard and a quarter long, and it is made of strong linen or calico. The tape for the neck should be nine or ten nails long. A pocket may be added in front. The corners of the apron are simply turned down to the distance of five nails and a half from the top (see A A), the letters, A A, being each exactly five nails and a half from B. These corners are either sewed or strongly hemmed down.

GENTLEMEN’S WORKSHOP APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 16.

This is very useful for gentlemen when turning, or using tools, and is generally made of Holland or strong white or brown linen. The width is fifteen or sixteen nails; the part for the neck four and a half, five, or more, according to the width across the shoulders of the wearer. The depth of this part two nails and a half or more. The straps, about eight nails and a half long, cross each other from the neck to the half of the shoulder part of the apron; which plan holds it up neatly in front, and makes it set more comfortably. A pocket may be added, according to pleasure, in front, or two at the sides. A slit in the apron, bound round with tape, and a square piece put on behind it, looks the neatest as a pocket.

SENTIMENT, FIANCÉE, OR NECK-TIE.

PLATE 11. FIG. 17, 18.

This is made of velvet, satin, or silk, and is worn for the purpose of keeping the neck warm, and as a finish to the dress. It is made of two colours, which are joined in the middle and lined with sarsenet: the silk or other material is cut crosswise and pointed at the ends. The sentiment is six or seven nails long from point to point, when made up, and within one nail and a half of the point at one end, is fastened with strong stitches or a silk ring. When the tie is worn, the other point is passed through the ring and drawn close. Sometimes the neck-tie is of a dark coloured silk in the middle with two coloured ends.

A DRESS SCARF OR CAPRICE.

PLATE 11. FIG. 19, 20.

This is made of the broadest satin ribbon that can be procured, say two nails and a half wide, and is two yards and three-quarters long. Double the ribbon on the wrong side exactly in two, and, while so doubled, run across the width of the ribbon in a slanting direction (Fig. 19, A B), and when opened, the scarf will set to the form of the neck. An edging of swansdown is sewed all round, and the ends may be either embroidered, braided, or left plain, according to the taste of the wearer.

A CACHEMIRE OR INDIANA SCARF.

PLATE 11. FIG. 21.

This is a kind of scarf which is easily made, and is a pretty finish to a walking dress, or may be worn in an evening at home: it is formed of three colours, say black, scarlet, and light blue. To make one scarf, you will want one yard and six nails in length and four nails and a half in width, of the black cachemire.

Sometimes the length of the scarf will lie in the width of the material, in which case it will be a great saving of expense. Procure a piece of each of the other two colours, seven nails long, and of the same width as the black, viz., four nails and a half. Find the middle of each end of the black strip, and slope off one nail and a half from the middle to each side (see Fig. 21, A C A D): next, slope one end of the blue, and one end of the scarlet strip, to accord exactly with the black strip, cutting the nail and a half from the middle to the ends. After this, split the blue and the scarlet pieces down the middle, sew half the blue and half the scarlet very accurately, first together, and then to the black strip, making the points fit in as neatly as possible to the half strips: do the same at the other end, arranging the colours so as to be at cross corners with each other. Observe that the pieces are sewed flatly together, and herring-boned all round on the right side. A narrow silk gymp, one-third of a nail wide, is laid at the edge and upon all the joinings; this gymp should be of some clear bright colour, as yellow and deep brown or gold colour, and at the ends is a silk fringe of blue and scarlet, to match the two half strips.

A SIMPLE SCARF.

This is made of plain net or tulle, the whole width of the material, say three-quarters of a yard, and three yards long. A broad hem is made all round, wide enough to admit of a satin ribbon of a three-penny breadth.

STAYS OR CORSETS.

PLATE 11.

It is impossible to give any particular patterns or sizes of stays, as they must, of course, be cut differently, according to the figure, and be variously supported with more or less bones or runners of cotton, according to the age, strength, or constitution of the wearer; we shall, therefore, confine ourselves to a few observations on the making up: and with respect to the cutting out, it is recommended to those who make their own stays, to purchase a pair from an experienced stay-maker that fit perfectly well, and also a pair cut out, but not made up, so as to be a good pattern for the home-made stays.

WOMEN’S STAYS.

PLATE 11. FIG. 22.

If for ladies, they are made of sattine, or best French jean, which is half a yard wide, and about 20_d._ or 2_s._ per yard: if of an inferior quality, they are made of white, brown, grey, or nankeen jean, at 8_d._ or 10_d._ per yard, and lined with calico between the doubles. The stay is generally lined between the two pieces of jean with union cloth or Irish linen in every part excepting the gores. Stays are usually cut in four parts, all of which are generally upon the cross, as this assists materially in making them set better to the figure. Two of the pieces reach from each side of the back, nearly to the hips, and the other two from thence to the middle of the busk or steel. There are two gores on each side for the bosom, and two larger ones on each side below, for the hips.

The necessary bones are as follows:

A steel in the middle, which should be narrower at the top than at the bottom, and confined in a strong wash-leather, before being put into the stay-case.

Two bones at the extreme ends, to prevent the holes from bursting beyond the edge.

We may also add, as they are in common use, a second bone down each back, on the other side of the lace-holes.

Bones between the front bosom gores, on each side; but these should be very thin and elastic, and are seldom wanted unless the wearer requires much additional support.

Two other bones, one on each side, from about a nail below each arm-hole to the bottom of the stay.

A few slight rib or cross-bones are sometimes put in.

It is as well to observe that unless particularly feeble, or otherwise an invalid, it is most desirable to wear as few bones as possible; and that for healthy persons, the two back bones, with the steel in front, are quite sufficient. The casing of the steel in front is sometimes made elastic to the depth of four nails from the top, by means of Indian rubber runners; which adds much to the comfort of asthmatic or delicate persons. (See Fig. 23.)

On each side of the steel is a cotton runner, and these are also put in various other parts of the stays, according to fancy.

ON MAKING UP.

The needles used for making stays are called the _between_ needles. Strong sewing silk, called stay-silk, is used for the best corsets, and strong waxed cotton for the common ones. In sewing the seams, take great care to turn in the work properly, so as to have all the rough edges within the stay: for this purpose, first turn down the outside and inside piece of jean lying on one side of the seam, with the rough edges and the lining prepared as if for common sewing; do the same with the other side of the seam, placing the two seams, thus prepared, side by side, and sew them firmly together. It will have the effect of a double ordinary seam, when held between the finger and thumb. The mode of sewing these four thicknesses so as to make them lie flatly when opened, is rather peculiar. Take up with your needle, three of the thicknesses, leaving the fourth unsewed. The next stitch, take again three folds, leaving the other outside one unsewed: continue alternately taking up one outside and omitting the other, letting the stitches lie close together: when completed, open the seam, and flatten it with the finger and thumb.

The gores are next laid between the doubles of jean, and neatly back-stitched all round; the narrow parts at the top being worked in button-hole stitch.

The bone-cases are then made, and the cotton runners back-stitched.

The oylet or lace-holes are next worked, and after the stay-bones are put in, the top and bottom of the stays, with the shoulder-straps, are neatly bound with stay-binding.

As there are many varieties in the shapes of the different parts of stays, they will be described in detail, under their respective heads.

GORES.

These are sometimes made of elastic wires, as in Fig. 23, sometimes of Indian rubber, and sometimes of a kind of elastic twill.

SHOULDER-STRAPS

Are made of the same material as the stays, and back-stitched to the front and back of the shoulder. Sometimes they are buttoned down in the front, which enables the wearer, by unbuttoning them, to dress her hair in an evening with perfect ease. (See Fig. 22.)

Others have oylet-holes to admit of bobbins, which lace them to corresponding holes in the stays. (See Fig. 24.)

A piece of Indian rubber or elastic wire, of about one nail in length, is frequently sewed to the end of the strap, and this is considered the most convenient, as it will lengthen or contract at pleasure.

LACE-HOLES

Are generally worked round in button-hole stitch; sometimes tape is laced from the outside through these holes, being drawn through every other hole till they reach the top, and then brought down again, drawing it round the edge, through the intermediate holes; this preserves them from being worn. (See Fig. 26.) Others insert in every hole a ring, called a patent lace-hole. These are very durable, but are said to destroy the laces.

MODESTY-PIECE.

To the top of the stay is sometimes attached a small modesty-piece, which for some people is an excellent contrivance, as it makes it set more closely and delicately in front. This extra piece is all in one, and is the cross-way; it is carried along the whole of the front of the stay: it is about half a nail deep over the bosom, and sloped off to a quarter of a nail over the stay-bone; at the top of this additional strip, which is bound all round, a bobbin is run to draw it up. When drawn properly, this modesty lies over the bosom so as to shade it delicately, whereas if it were cut all in one piece with the stay it would make it higher, but it would stand out, and not answer the desired end. (See Fig. 25.)

NURSING STAYS.

It is essential to open the front of nursing stays, so as to give the mother the greatest ease while feeding her infant; for this purpose, care should be taken that no stay-bones or hard buttons should come in contact with the child’s face: the two or three best modes of opening them are the following:

Leave open that side of the bosom gore which is next to the shoulder-strap, to the depth of a full nail and a half; neatly bind the side of the gore, and after back-stitching the opposite side, sew on very firmly two buttons, one at the top and the other lower down. To the gore is attached two loops, by which it can be buttoned or unbuttoned at pleasure. (See Fig. 24.)

Another mode is that of leaving open the outer sides of those gores nearest the steel or middle of the stays.

These sides, and the parts with which they accord, have oylet-holes worked down them, exactly opposite to each other. Through each oylet-hole in the gore, pass a bobbin of about two nails and a quarter long, which is fastened at one end firmly to the wrong side, just behind the oylet-hole. The other end of each bobbin is drawn across to the inner side of the corresponding hole, and pulled through. By this arrangement all the ends of the bobbins lace up the whole gore. The bobbins are sewed together at the ends, forming a loop to attach it to a button on each side of the steel (see Fig. 23, A B).

These bobbins should be carefully cut and joined, so as to pull the gores properly in their places. When it is unbuttoned the whole front lets down comfortably. It is advisable to sew a little fold or oblong piece to the stay on the inside, which forms a flap to lie between the shift and the opening, as a guard from cold.

MEN’S STAYS, OR BELTS.

PLATE 11. FIG. 27, 28.

These are worn by gentlemen in the army, hunters, or by those using violent exercise.

They are made of strong jean, duck, leather, or webbing.

Sometimes the stay is merely a strip or belt, as Fig. 28; at others it is a little shaped or peaked, as Fig. 27. Towards the ends is sewed a piece of elastic work (see Fig. 28 E). Runners of cotton are made in various places to strengthen the whole. Long webbing straps are sewed three on each end. These straps are sewed on with pieces of leather over them, and are about three nails deep. The length is, of course, determined by the size of the wearer.

BELT FOR A HUNTER OR COACHMAN.

This is often merely a simple leather belt, with three tongues and buckles.

CHILD’S LITTLE STAY.

PLATE 11. FIG. 33.

This is made of fine jean, doubled, of three nails depth, and of the width required by the child. Cord runners are made in front, and at the backs, and buttons are put on, before and behind, for the drawers and flannels to be attached to.

AN OLDER CHILD’S STAY.

PLATE 11. FIG. 29.

This is formed of double jean, and may be lined between with Irish linen. If it is preferred, all the runners may have cotton drawn through them, so as to admit of no bones.

BUSTLES.

PLATE 11. FIG. 30, 32.

Bustles are worn by those whose shape requires something to set off the skirt of the gown. They should not be too large, or they look indelicate, and in bad taste. They are made of jean, strong calico, and sometimes of glazed calico.

Fig. 30 represents a simple bustle of strong calico. It is composed of one piece the width of the calico, say a yard, and eight nails deep. This piece is doubled in two, so as to make two flounces, the one four nails and a half long, and the other three and a half. At one nail from the doubled top make a narrow case to admit of tapes. The bottoms of the flounces are hemmed with a very thick cord in them. When worn, the bustle is turned inside out, by which means the frill falls between the two flounces (see Fig. 32).

Fig. 31 is merely two flounces of jean, one four nails deep and the other three nails, gathered into a tape at the top and vandyked at the bottom.

Some persons wear down bustles (see Fig. 33), which are made of glazed lining muslin. A flat half circle or oval is cut out, about two nails and a half wide by two nails deep, and another piece, of an oblong shape, rounded at the corners, much longer and deeper, say three-quarters of a yard long by four nails and a half deep, is fulled into the smaller piece on one side, and into a tape on the other or top, thus making a bag to contain the down, which should be either swan’s or the best goose down.

VEILS.

The subject of veils is one that may soon be dismissed, as a few words on the materials of which they are composed, together with the usual sizes, comprises all that can be said upon them.

Veils for ordinary wear may be of a kind of soft tulle, made on purpose, of net, gauze, or crape. The size for a grown-up person is from thirteen nails to a yard long, and about twenty nails wide; for a child, eleven nails long, and the width is determined by that of the material. Demi-voiles are about four nails deep, and the width is regulated by that of the bonnet to which they are attached.

A pretty way of making a net or tulle veil is by hemming a satin ribbon half a nail deep all round it, either the same colour, or, if the veil is white, of some pale shade to suit the bonnet or the dress. This, by strengthening the edges, makes the veil wear better than it would otherwise do.

A crape or gauze veil is simply hemmed all round, the hem being deeper at the bottom to give it a little weight. A ribbon is run in at the top.

Mourning veils are of black crape. They should be made of what is termed the best, or jet black crape, as the blue-black soon wears whitish, and looks shabby. The other, though the most expensive at first, is the best economy in the end. They are made quite plainly, with a broad hem all round—say three-quarters of a nail deep.

Demi-voiles, when not of blonde, Chantilly, or worked lace, are of tulle, with ribbon run in. They should be set on the bonnet slightly, fulled all round the brim, but much more so at the ears, to make them hang well. A demi-voile should also be a little taken up at the ears, so as not to be the full depth, which is apt to give a slovenly appearance.

Riding veils are much shorter than any other kind except demi-voiles, and sufficiently wide to draw nearly all round the hat. They are made either of black lace, worked on purpose, or of brown or green crape. It is a good plan to run a string through a riding-veil, both at the top and bottom, taking care that the ribbon at the bottom is only just as long as the veil is wide, so that it is not seen when not in use. The advantage of this second string is, that in hot weather, and under a glaring sun, the wearer may tie both ribbons round her hat, thus forming a double veil for the protection of her eyes, whilst the lower part of the face has all the benefit of the cool air.

SLEEVES.

PLATE 12.

Sleeves should, when it is possible, be cut upon the cross; for which purpose a corner of the material should be turned up, until the doubled part, which is the cross way, is large enough to admit of the length and width of the sleeve.

Silk is sometimes too narrow for a very large sleeve to be made without joining, when care should be taken to join together two selvages. The joinings must be so contrived as to set either under, or at the back of the sleeves.

Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7

Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 8

Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 21

Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Fig. 29

Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35]

In order to make sleeves set well, they are hollowed out, as it is called, which is nothing more than cutting away a little of the front, at the top, so as to make it less deep than the back, observing always that it is straight in the front, the crosswise part of the sleeve falling behind. This is of great importance, as the set of the sleeve depends upon it. Of course attention must be paid to make them in pairs.

There are so many ways of finishing sleeves, and so many fancies about them, that to describe them all would be equally impossible and useless. A few rows of biassing, both at the top and bottom, or small plaits, confined once or twice by narrow bands, or by back-stitching, give a very neat appearance when the sleeve is at all a full one.

For lining sleeves, see the description in Chapter I.

A CHILD’S FIRST SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a neat shape for a child of a year old, before which time their sleeves are generally cut straight, and merely sloped down to the cuff.

Turn up your material seven nails, and, after cutting a pattern according to the figure, lay it on the piece and cut by it.

The pattern is cut as follows (see Fig. 2):—Take half a square of seven nails each way, and from A to B measure two nails; the same from A to H, and mark across, letting the wrist be one nail and three-quarters wide. From B to C is four nails, between which, measure downwards, one nail and a half, and curve from B, by L, to C, which is one nail from D. Measure next to E, three nails, and curve from C to E, and again from E to G, which is two nails from F.

The part marked D in all the sleeves is double. When made up it resembles Fig. 1.

AN OLDER CHILD’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 3, 4.

Turn up seven nails crosswise, and cut as follows, see Fig. 4:—

SCALE.

+-------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B | 1¾ |
| From A to C | 1½ |
+-------------+-------+

Cut across one nail and a quarter for the wrist.

SCALE.

+----------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to E is | 6 |
| From E to F | 1 |
+----------------+-------+

Slope gradually from B to F.

SCALE.

+-------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From the corner, K to G | 3½ |
| From the corner, I to H | 1½ |
+-------------------------+-------+

Slope from F to G, and from G to H.

In making up Fig. 3, after joining the seams, and hemming or piping it at the bottom, gather it into the arm-hole at the top, and make a string-case just above the elbow to confine it as in the Plate. If preferred, it may be gathered above the elbow, and a narrow band put on.

LONG SLEEVE FOR A GROWN-UP PERSON.

PLATE 12. FIG. 5, 6.

This is cut as follows:—Turn up your paper pattern, or material, nine nails upon the cross (see Fig. 6).

SCALE.

+----------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B is | 2 |
| From A to J is | 2 |
+----------------+-------+

Cut straight from J to B for the wrist.

SCALE.

+----------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From B to C | 3 |
| From C to E | 3 |
| From E to the corner | 1 |
+----------------------+-------+

Cut straight from B to K, which is two nails below C. Cut in a sweep from K to the point, O, which is a quarter of a nail below E.

SCALE.

+----------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From the corner to F | 3½ |
| From F to G | 2½ |
| From G to H | 3 |
| From H to I | 2 |
+----------------------+-------+

Cut in a sweep from O to F, and from G to I.

The making up is perfectly simple. It is for a small-sized person.

THE CIRCULAR LONG SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 7, 8.

This takes rather more of the material than the other shapes, but it is so easily cut out, and looks so well when made up, that it is allowed a place here.

For the full size it is a perfect circle, in a square of about fifteen nails.

After the circle is formed, double it in half (see Fig. 8); measure at A B a sufficient width to admit of the wrist, and slit up, in a slightly curving line, from B to C for about four nails, to form the arm of the sleeve. A little of the circle, from E towards B, is then sloped off to form the hollowing.

When made up, this part, E, is all taken up and gathered into the shoulder-strap. It is considered to hang particularly well, falling over the tight part of the sleeve (see Fig. 7.)

A PLAIN LONG SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 9, 10.

Turn up your material a yard or fifteen nails. If it will not permit of this being done without joining, add a straight piece along the dotted line, running the two selvages together. Cut out as follows:

SCALE.

+----------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B is | 3 |
| From A to C | 2 |
| From B to L | 3 |
| From L to E | 3 |
| From E to F | 6 |
| From F to G | 8 |
| From G to H | 8 |
| From H to I | 4 |
+----------------+-------+

Cut from C to within half a nail below B for the wrist. Cut nearly straight from B to O, which is two nails and a half below L, and in a sweep from O to E.

Sweep well from E to G, and from G to I.

The making up is perfectly simple.

A FULL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 11, 12.

Turn up fifteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:—

SCALE.

+--------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B | 8 |
| From B to E | 7 |
| From E to F | 7 |
| From F to H | 5 |
| From the side to G | 1¾ |
| From H to I | 3 |
| From I to J | 2 |
| From A to C | 3¼ |
+--------------------+-------+

Curve from C to B; from B to F. Hollow from F to G, and cut nearly straight from G to H.

It is made up either quite simply, or with one or two rows of biassing below the gathers at the top.

ANOTHER FULL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 13, 14.

Turn up thirteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:—

SCALE.

+-------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B | 8 |
| From A to C | 2¼ |
| From B to O | 5 |
| From O to E | 3 |
| From E to F | 6 |
| From F to G | 2 |
| From F to H | 2 |
| From H to I | 3 |
| From I to J | 2 |
+-------------+-------+

Slope in a regular curve from C, by B, to E. Curve easily from E to G, and cut nearly straight from G to H. Cut from H to I for the wrist.

A SMALL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 15, 16.

Turn up your material so that the cross part, is seventeen nails long. Cut as follows (Fig. 16):

SCALE.

+-------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B | 3¼ |
| From A to C | 2 |
| From B to E | 5¾ |
| From E to F | 3 |
| From F to G | 8 |
| From G to H | 3½ |
| From H to I | 3½ |
+-------------+-------+

Slope, in an equal and full curve, from C, by B, to F. Cut straight from G to I.

AN OLD WOMAN’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 17, 18.

This is an economical kind of sleeve, worn much by the working classes.

Double your material either on the cross or nearly straight, according to taste and economy. From A to B, the doubled part, is ten nails and a half. C is the point opposite O, which is two nails below B. Slope, in an outward curve, from B to C, and then, taking but one fold of the silk, cut the inward curve from B to C, which forms the hollowing or inside of the sleeve.

A BOY’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 19, 20.

This is for a boy of about six years old, who wears tunics of cloth. The sleeve, when doubled, is six nails long, four nails wide at the top, and one nail and three-quarters at the wrist. A is three nails from the top, opposite to which is B.

Curve from C to B, hollowing out one fold. Fig. 20 represents the sleeve made up.

A BOY’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 21.

This sleeve is for a boy’s coat or tunic, and has two seams in it, like a man’s coat sleeve.

Take two pieces of cloth eight nails long and three wide. A is half way down the length. Curve from A to the bottom, to within half a nail from the corner. Curve from B to C at two nails from the top, and from A to B at three-quarters of a nail from the side, which forms the elbow. Curve from C to the bottom, at three-quarters of a nail from the side.

A WOMAN’S LARGE SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 22, 23.

Turn up your material fourteen nails, and double it so as to be sixteen nails long at the top, A C E.

SCALE.

+----------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B is | 2 |
| From A to C | 8 |
| From C to E | 8 |
| From E to F | 2 |
| From F to G | 6 |
| From G to H | 3 |
| From G to I | 6 |
| From I to J | 7 |
+----------------+-------+

Sweep gradually from B, past C, to F. Curve again from F to H. Cut in a straight line from H to J.

In making up, the sleeve may be biassed one nail from the top, and a piped band laid on, and again three or four times at the wrist, or it may be confined above the elbow; in which case it must be made a little longer than would otherwise be necessary.

This is a pattern that can only be used when large sleeves are worn; but, being a good shape, it is hoped it may prove acceptable.

SHORT SLEEVES.

PLATE 12. FIG. 24, 25, 26.

These are for dresses, frocks, or even petticoats, when full sleeves are worn and liked.

Cut the pattern of the whole sleeve in paper; and then, turning up your material to a sufficient size crosswise, lay the sleeve open upon it, placing the long side of the pattern upon the cross or doubled part of the material. Both sleeves may thus be cut out at once.

SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES.

+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+
| ———————— | Large | Second | Third |
| | size. | size. | size. |
+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails.|
|Turn up the material at the side| 17 | 13 | 12 |
|From A to B | 3 | 2 | 3 |
|From A to C | 3 | 2 | 3 |
|From C to B | 2 | 1½ | 2 |
|From B to D | 14 | 10 | 8 |
|From D to E | 15 | 11 | 9½ |
|From E to F | 2 | 2 | 3 |
|From F to G | 2 | 3 | 2½ |
|From H to I | 6 | 5 | 4½ |
|From C to G | 20 | 14 | 12 |
|Length of band, say | 5½ | 5 | 4½ |
+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+
| | | Small | |
| ———————— | Girl’s | girl’s |Child’s|
| | size. | size. | size. |
+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails.|
|Turn up the material at the side| 9 | 6½ | 5½ |
|From A to B | 2 | 1 | 1 |
|From A to C | 2 | 1 | 1 |
|From C to B | 1½ | ¾ | ¾ |
|From B to D | 7½ | 5 | 4½ |
|From D to E | 7 | 5 | 4½ |
|From E to F | 2 | 1½ | 1 |
|From F to G | 2 | 1½ | 1 |
|From H to I | 3½ | 2½ | 2 |
|From C to G | 9 | 7 | 6 |
|Length of band, say | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ |
+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+

When cut out, fold each sleeve in half (see Fig. 26), and hollow one fold out to form the inside.

Take care to hollow the sleeves properly, so as to make a pair, the straight part of the sleeve being in front, which is to be hollowed. If the sleeve should require joining, sew two selvages together (see the dotted line, Fig. 25).

In making up, the bottom of the sleeve may be either set into a band, as in the Plate, or into a piping; at the top it is gathered, and frequently a piping is put round it, which gives it a neat finish: it is set into the dress quite plainly under the arms; the fulness is thrown a little back, for if brought too forward, it is very unbecoming to the figure.

SHORT SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 27, 28, 29.

These are cut out exactly like Fig. 25, excepting that after the sleeve is simply cut out, a triangular piece is taken from the top of the doubled part of it, and a triangle of worked muslin inserted. To cut out this piece, double the sleeve, as in Fig. 29, and cut off from A to B: when opened again, it will resemble Fig. 28, and when made up, it will be like Fig. 27.

In making up, after setting the sleeve into a band or piping at the bottom, gather it at the top and sew it to the triangular piece, throwing the fulness pretty equally at the sides, and making it very full at the point of the triangle. Sometimes the triangle is piped to make it firmer.

CIRCULAR SHORT SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 30, 31, 32.

This is another kind of short sleeve, being cut out of a circle. It is hollowed a little (see Fig. 30), A B, for the inside of the arm. A circular hole is cut in the centre, a little larger than the width of the arm; this inner circle is gathered and set into the band, and the outer one, also gathered, is sewed into the arm-hole of the dress.

The following are good sizes for circular sleeves, all of which must be cut out of squares.

SCALE.

+-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+
| ———————— |Full |Second| Third|Girl’s|Child’s|Baby’s|
| |size. |size. | size.| size.| size. |size. |
+-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+
| |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| Nails.|Nails.|
|Size of the square | 18 | 15 | 13½ | 11 | 9 | 7 |
|Size of the hole across| 3½ | 3¼ | 3¼ | 2½ | 2 | 1¾ |
|Length of the band | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ |
+-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+

TIGHT SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 33, 34, 35.

This sleeve may be used either for petticoats, or, when tight sleeves are worn, for evening dresses, and children’s frocks, in which case it is ornamented in different ways.

Turn up the material on the perfect cross, and for the better cutting it out, double it again, as in Fig. 33, on which four folds lay your pattern, D being the doubled part.

Turn up your material eight nails, then fold it from A to B, Fig. 35, and cut as follows, see Fig. 33:

SCALE.

+----------------+---------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B is | 3 |
| From A to C | 3 |
| From B to E | 4½ |
| From E to F | 2 |
| From F to G | 3½ |
| From C to H | ½ |
+----------------+---------+

Cut from B to C, sweep from B to F, and then cut from H, which is half a nail above C, to G.

Fig. 1 Fig. 6 Fig. 9 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14

Fig. 2 Fig. 7 Fig. 10 Fig. 16 Fig. 15

Fig. 3 Fig. 39 Fig. 17 Fig. 18

Fig. 4 Fig. 8 Fig. 11 Fig. 19 Fig. 20

Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23

Fig. 5 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 Fig. 27

Fig. 28 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33

Fig. 34 Fig. 35 Fig. 36 Fig. 37 Fig. 38]

SHOULDER-PIECES, COLLARS, CAPES &c.

PLATE 13.

As the above articles, together with pelerines, tippets, and collarettes, are required for cloaks, gowns, pelisses, frocks, and dressing-gowns, it is advisable to class them under a head by themselves, by which means they can be more readily explained, without confusion or repetition, and the pattern wanted for any particular dress, referred to.

Patterns of the prettiest and most varied forms are selected, together with a few scales for different sizes.

OBSERVE that the Plates represent but half of the pattern, which is supposed to be double at the end marked D; also NOTICE, that they are drawn to a scale of the exact size of the pattern when _made up_, so that about a quarter of a nail must be allowed all round for the turnings in. It is a good plan, when cutting out any difficult shape, to make a pattern on paper, very accurately, first; and then to lay it on the material and cut by it.

As it would be impossible to describe any intricate shape clearly, without putting it into some regular form, it is deemed necessary to enclose each pattern within an oblong or a square, on the sides of which are marked distinctly the nails, so that by making a figure on paper to a scale of real nails in the same proportion, and marking with great accuracy the parts, which the extreme points of the irregular pattern within, touch, the shape may be easily obtained by curving inwardly or outwardly from point to point, according to the shape to be represented in the drawing. It is always preferable to cut the above articles crosswise, both before and behind, as they set much better to the shape, especially behind; for the sake of economy, they are sometimes cut straight-wise with one end placed against the selvage; sometimes the collar or cape is joined behind with a neat piping, in which case the back of the pattern is frequently laid against the selvage and the points made to lie crosswise. The Plate represents the patterns as cut on the most economical plan, shewing whether the front or back should be straight-wise. Observe that if one side of the back be cut across, the other side must be so likewise, and if one side of the back be cut selvage-wise, so must the corresponding; whereas, with regard to the front ends, one side may be straight, while the other is on the cross.

IN CUTTING CROSSWISE.

Turn up a sufficient quantity of the corner of the material, like a half-handkerchief, and laying the pattern with the part marked D on the doubled part of the material, cut it out, allowing a quarter of a nail all round for the turning in.

IN CUTTING STRAIGHT-WISE.

Double the material selvage-wise to the proper width, and cut out according to the paper pattern, still placing D on the folded part of the muslin.

SHOULDER-PIECES.

Are generally employed in dressing-gowns, cloaks, and capes, also in boys’ high dresses. It is the part to which the skirt or deep cape is fulled, and should be made to set particularly well to the figure, else the whole dress will have an awkward appearance.

In making up, the shoulder-pieces are generally lined, unless they are intended for any light article of dress. If they are meant for a cloak or warm cape, a piece of fine flannel or demet, is often put between the material of which the cloak is made and the lining, with a piping round the edge.

A NEAT SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 1.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
|Width of square when doubled | 3½ |
|Length of square | 5¾ |
|Space from A to B | 2¾ |
|Space from B to C | 3 |
|Space from C to D | 1½ |
|Space from D to E | 2 |
|Space from E to F | 1 |
|Space from F to G | 1 |
|Space from F to H | 2½ |
|Space from H to I | 2¼ |
+-----------------------------+-------+

Shape off in a gradual curve from D to B, from B to I. Cut in a straight line from D to G. Slope from G to H.

SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A CHILD’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 2.

SCALE.

+----------------------------+-------+
| |Nails. |
|Length of square | 4¼ |
|Width of square when folded | 3¼ |
|Space from A to B | 3 |
|Space from B to C | 1¼ |
|Space from D to E | ½ |
|Space from E to F | 1¾ |
|Space from E to G | 1¾ |
|Space from G to H | 2 |
+----------------------------+-------+

Cut in a straight line from C to J. Curve gradually from F to G, and from B to H.

A VERY NEAT SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 3

SCALE.

+----------------------------+---------------+-------------+
| ———————— |Shoulder-piece.| Collar for a|
| | |baby’s cloak.|
+----------------------------+---------------+-------------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of square | 4¼ | 4 |
|Width of square when double | 3¾ | 3½ |
|Space from A to B | 2¼ | 1½ |
|Space from B to C | 2 | 2½ |
|Space from C to D | 1¾ | 1½ |
|Space from D to E | 2 | 2 |
|Space from E to F | 1¾ | 2 |
|Space from F to G | 2½ | 2 |
|Space from G to H | 1½ | 2 |
+----------------------------+---------------+-------------+

Form the curve from B to H, so as to end without abruptness, and be lost in the straight line. Round well from B to D.

SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A BABY’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 4.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
|Length of square | 3 |
|Width of square when doubled | 3 |
|Space from A to B | 2½ |
|Space from B to C | ½ |
|Space from C to D | ½ |
|Space from D to E | 2½ |
|Space from E to F | 1½ |
|Space from F to G | 1½ |
|Space from G to H | 1 |
+-----------------------------+-------+

SHOULDER-PIECE TO A CHILD’S PELISSE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 5.

This shape is much in use for spencers, pelisses, and boys’ high dresses. The part marked S sets over the shoulder when the sleeve is fulled on at the top. The parts marked B and F lie in the middle, exactly behind, and in front; thus the pattern shows half the shoulder-piece, the curve being for half round the neck. The other half is piped and sewed on to it in front, and is fastened behind by buttons. The fulness of the body is then sewed on to this shoulder-piece, which is piped all round.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
|Length of square | 3 |
|Width of square | 3¼ |
|Space from A to B | ¾ |
|Space from B to C | 2¼ |
|Space from C to D | 1¼ |
|Space from D to E | ½ |
|Space from E to F | 1½ |
|Space from F to G | 1½ |
|Space from G to H, and from H to L | 1 |
+-----------------------------------+-------+

VARIOUS SIZES FOR CAPES AND TIPPETS FOR WOMEN AND CHILDREN.

PLATE 13. FIG. 6.

Column 1. A woman’s large cape for walking in.
Column 2. A woman’s large cape for morning dress.
Column 3. A child’s large cape for walking in.
Column 4. A woman’s collar.
Column 5. A child’s pretty cape for morning dress.
Column 6. A child’s cape for a pelisse.
Column 7. Pretty cape for the morning dress of a
child of four or five years old.
The Plate represents the pattern in the fourth column.

SCALE.

+-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+
| ———————— |No. 1.|No. 2.|No. 3.|No. 4.|No. 5.|No. 6.|No. 7.|
+-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+
| |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|
|Length of square | 12½ | 9¾ | 8½ | 7¾ | 8 | 7¼ | 6½ |
|Width of square | | | | | | | |
| doubled | 8¾ | 7¾ | 5½ | 5½ | 5 | 4¾ | 4½ |
|Width from A to B| 6½ | 4½ | 4½ | 4¾ | 5 | 3 | 3 |
|Width from B to C| 6 | 5¼ | 4 | 3 | 3 | 4¼ | 3½ |
|Width from C to D| 3¾ | 2¼ | 1½ | 1½ | 2½ | 2¾ | 1 |
|Width from D to E| 5 | 5½ | 4 | 3½ | 2½ | 2 | 3½ |
|Width from E to F| 2¾ | 1¾ | 2½ | 1½ | 2½ | 2 | 1 |
|Width from F to G| 1½ | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¾ | ½ | ½ | 1 |
|Width from F to H| 2¼ | 2 | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¾ | 3¼ |
|Width from H to I| 7 | 5¾ | 4¼ | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ |
|Width from I to J| 3¾ | 3 | ¼ | ½ | 1 | ¼ | |
+-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 7.

Column 1. A neat collar for a woman’s cloak or dressing-gown.
Column 2. Rather smaller pattern of the above.
Column 3. A very neat collar for a girl of fourteen.
Column 4. A collar for a baby’s flannel cloak.
The Plate represents column 2.

SCALE.