Chapter XI: Knitting (2)

They are best made of floss wool of five or six threads, and about two and a half ounces of wool is sufficient for each pair. Whalebone or wooden pins are used; they should not be very thick, considerably less than a drawing pencil.

For women’s full sized socks cast on thirty-six stitches on three needles, and knit ten plain rows, then turn the first stitch of the next row; after this, for the thirty following rows, narrow thus—the two last loops of the last needle must be knit as one; turn the first loop of the next row, and take the two next loops off at once, taking hold of the loops at the back instead of in the usual way. After this you begin to welt, and the depth of the welting is regulated by fancy.

VERY PRETTY KNIT BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 36.

Commonly called Derby jail boots, at which place the female prisoners are employed in making them.

SCALE FOR KNIT BOOTS.

+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+
| |Child|Child|Child|
| ———————— |of 8 |of 10|of 12|
+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+
|Loops set on one pin | 14 | 16 | 18 |
| | | | |
|Widen every rib on one end till the | 17 | 19 | 21 |
| number of loops are | | | |
| | | | |
|Knit plain ribs | 2 | 3 | 3 |
| | | | |
|Narrow every rib on one end, till the | | | |
| number of loops are | 14 | 16 | 18 |
| | | | |
|Number of loops to be added, half of which | | | |
| are to be set on the pin with the | | | |
| stitches already on, and the other half| | | |
| on a fresh pin immediately joining it | 20 | 22 | 24 |
| | | | |
|Pick up the stitches on the second pin, | | | |
| which were first set on for the toe | | | |
| | | | |
|Ribs knit for the side of the foot | 7 | 8 | 9 |
| | | | |
|Pick up loops to the toe | | | |
| | | | |
|Ribs for the bottom of the foot | 1 | 2 | 2 |
| | | | |
|Pick up the loops round the ankle, | | | |
| and narrow every rib on the right | | | |
| side three or four stitches from | 10 | 11 | 12 |
| the front of the rows | | | |
| | | | |
|Fasten off | | | |
+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| |Child|Child|Child| |
| ———————— |of 14|of 16|of 18|Woman|
+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+
|Loops set on one pin | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 |
| | | | | |
|Widen every rib on one end till the | 26 | 28 | 31 | 33 |
| number of loops are | | | | |
| | | | | |
|Knit plain ribs | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| | | | | |
|Narrow every rib on one end, till the | | | | |
| number of loops are | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 |
| | | | | |
|Number of loops to be added, half of which | | | | |
| are to be set on the pin with the | | | | |
| stitches already on, and the other half| | | | |
| on a fresh pin immediately joining it | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 |
| | | | | |
|Pick up the stitches on the second pin, | | | | |
| which were first set on for the toe | | | | |
| | | | | |
|Ribs knit for the side of the foot | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 |
| | | | | |
|Pick up loops to the toe | | | | |
| | | | | |
|Ribs for the bottom of the foot | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 |
| | | | | |
|Pick up the loops round the ankle, | | | | |
| and narrow every rib on the right | | | | |
| side three or four stitches from | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 |
| the front of the rows | | | | |
| | | | | |
|Fasten off | | | | |
+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+

These boots may be knit in two wools, white and coloured. They should have leather soles sewed on, to make them more durable. They should have fringe, and worsted platted strings.

NIGHT SOCKS.

Coarse lamb’s wool and thick pins.

Set on thirty-six stitches, knit ten ribs, put eighteen on
one pin, and knit twelve ribs; narrow each rib at the
heel twice, making in all fourteen ribs. The other side
the same. Pick up loops on both the side pieces; for the
toe, knit ten ribs; narrow every rib on each side, so
that the narrowings shall be on the sides of the foot, and
not at the bottom; seven narrowings, and finish in a point.

VERY NEAT NIGHT SOCKS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 37.

Set forty-six stitches on one pin,
Knit twenty-seven plain ribs,
Add twenty stitches, setting them equally on three pins,
Knit twenty-six plain bouts or rounds,
Divide the stitches, letting half of them lie on one pin,
and the other half equally divided between two pins.
This arrangement makes it easier to knit than on two pins,
and, at the same time, distinctly marks the half for the
two narrowings;
Narrow on each side of the pin with half the stitches.

SQUARE NIGHT BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 38.

Set on forty loops, knit the two first stitches plain,
the rest double knitting till it is a square bag;
fasten it off, making it to open at the top; large
pins and coarse; lamb’s wool.

KNIT SOLE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 39.

This is a sole to put within a shoe or boot, and is made in double knitting and sewed to a piece of stiff muslin of the proper shape, and bound all round with ribbon.

For a good average size, set on fourteen stitches, knit in double knitting for twenty-three rows, and fasten off. The knitting must be brought into shape by taking it in with the galloon, when wanted to be narrowed.

KNEE CAP.

PLATE 21. FIG. 40.

Set on one pin forty-seven stitches,
Knit plain seventeen ribs,
Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, widen, knit a stitch,
widen again, and knit the remaining twenty-three stitches.
Every alternate row, widen at each of the above widenings exactly
in a straight line, so that the increase of stitches falls
in the centre, forming a gore or half diamond.
Knit sixteen plain ribs,
Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, narrow, knit
thirty-six stitches, narrow again, knit the remaining
twenty-three stitches.
Every alternate row, narrow in a straight line, over each of
these two narrowings, so as to reduce the stitches between
by degrees to a point again, at the end of thirteen ribs.
Knit thirty-one plain ribs;
Next row, fasten off four stitches, and knit the rest of the row;
knit a plain row;
Next row, fasten off four more stitches, and knit the rest of
the row; knit a plain row;
Next row, same as above, and then fasten off,
and sew up the seams.

KNIT GLOVES, LARGE SIZE.

Put eighteen stitches on a pin, leave about thirteen rows open (by knitting backwards and forwards instead of round) for the thumb; knit round till you come to the fingers. Put half the stitches on one pin, and half on the other. Take nine stitches off each pin for the first finger, and add eight between the first and second finger to make a gore, then there will be twenty-six stitches on your pins altogether; knit two rows plain, narrow every other row at each end of the eight loops you added, for three times on each side; there should now be twenty stitches left. Knit plain till the finger is long enough. Then narrow twice at each end of the finger, leaving one stitch between the two narrowings on each side. Do this every other row three times, when there will be eight loops left, divide them on two pins and bind them down. For the second finger, take six stitches off each pin, and pick up eleven stitches for a gore, between the second and third fingers. Knit two rows plain; there should then be thirty-four stitches; narrow every other row on each side of _both_ the gores three times. There should then be twenty-two stitches. Finish the finger like the other. For the third finger, take six stitches off each pin, pick up ten at the bottom of the last gore, and add ten for the new gore; there are then thirty-two stitches. Narrow as before, and there should then be twenty left. For the little finger, pick up ten stitches for the gore, and the six off the two pins make twenty-two, after the narrowings there should be sixteen stitches left. For the thumb, pick up three stitches at the bottom of the hole, and knit backwards and forwards, picking up an extra stitch each time, till there are sixteen stitches on a pin, then pick up three at the top, and knit backwards and forwards till there are eight. Join all together, and knit round; finish the thumb as the fingers.

DRIVING MITS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 41.

These are very useful for gentlemen or coachmen, in severe weather, being double on the out, and single in the inside.

Set on forty stitches on ivory pins, of thick soft floss wool. Knit several rows in double knitting until half the muffatee is completed, when knit the remainder in imitation double knitting, which is not so clumsy for the palm of the hand, when grasping reins, &c. When completed, sew it up, leaving a hole of a full nail for the thumb, at half a nail’s distance from the end.

BABY’S MITTENS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 42.

Set on twenty stitches on each of three pins, and knit plain one square.

Knit backwards and forwards along two of the pins, letting every other row be turn-stitch, for another square, and fasten off.

Knit the other pin in a similar manner for thirty rows, and fasten off.

Sew up the hand and thumb, and add a fringe or a ribbon to tie, or, if preferred, it may be begun with a welt at the wrist.

MITTENS.

Set on twenty-two loops on each of the three pins, welt twenty rows, knit one row plain, next row alternate _turn and plain_, third row plain, fourth row alternate _plain and turn_, so that the plain stitch is over the one that was turned before, and so on till you come to the beginning of the thumb. Then knit backwards and forwards, leaving a hole for the thumb. Then knit round again, and finish with a welt. To make a thumb, pick up three loops at the top of the hole left, and knit backwards and forwards, picking up an additional loop at the end of each row, for about ten rows. Then pick up three loops at the bottom of the hole, and do the same till you meet the stitches at the top. Join all together and knit round and round till it is long enough; welt five or six rows and finish.

THE KNIT ARMLET.

PLATE 21. FIG. 43.

This is very suitable for school girls to wear over their arms, or for old persons, or people when travelling. They may be made as high as the elbow, or up to the shoulder. Little children, in severe weather, wear them over their little naked arms to prevent them from chapping. Fine black lamb’s wool is most usually worn, in which case, it should be well steeped in vinegar, and then dried, to prevent the dye coming off.

For a grown-up person, one hundred stitches will reach to the elbow. Knit plain, as you would a garter, backwards and forwards, using large ivory or steel pins. About twenty rows (more or less, according to the size of the arm) are sufficient. Sew down the whole length, leaving an opening of about a nail long to admit the thumb, sewing beyond it to the end, about half a nail or less. When worn, they cling to the hand and arm, keep them warm, and look particularly neat.

Some persons prefer them welted at the top and bottom, or ribbed the whole way.

KNIT MUFFATEE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 44.

This is made simply by setting on forty stitches, and knitting three rows plain and three rows turn-stitch, till wide enough, when it is sewed up, leaving a hole for the thumb. It looks very neat in black or light grey. Use finest wool and pins.

MUFFATEE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 45.

This is in plain knitting.

Set on twenty stitches,
Knit twenty-eight ribs.

Fringe is sewed on with a carpet needle in a kind of cross-stitch, being wound over a mesh of the proper width.

MUFFATEE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 26.

This is extremely pretty, made of the two coloured ribbed stitch, or the two coloured chain stitch.

Set on thirty loops, and knit the first and last three loops of every pin plain knitting, of one colour, to make a kind of border. Continue this for about twenty-two ribs, when sew up, and either add fringe, or not, according to pleasure.

MUFFATEES.

Use fine pins and merino wool. Set on seventy four loops, knit six rows, backwards and forwards, then six rows double knitting, and so on alternately three times of double, and four of plain; then knit twelve double, six plain, and finish off. Sew it up.

MUFFATEES.

Set on an even number of stitches (twenty for a child, thirty for a lady, or fifty for a man) on an ivory pin.

Knit four, six, or eight stitches plain, according to the above sizes, and continue the row in imitation double knitting stitch, making as many plain stitches at the end of the row, as at the beginning.

Continue knitting backwards and forwards until sufficient is done for the thickness of the wrist.

Sew or lace it up, and it is completed.

FRILL OR RUFF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 47.

These are very soft for children, and are generally knit of two coloured wools and with ivory pins of a middling thickness.

Set on thirty-five stitches for a child, and fifty for
a grown-up person.
Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool,
Knit ten rows, putting the wool twice round the pin,
with white wool.
Again, knit four plain rows with the coloured wool,
and ten rows putting the wool twice round the pin,
with the white wool.
Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool, and fasten off.

Make up the frill as follows:—

Plat or double each white row, making the three sets of white rows lie side by side, so as to stand up, and have a square appearance. When done, lay the frill the wrong side uppermost, and sew the middle row of each set of stitches together, side by side, all along.

Sew a ribbon at each end, to tie.

A RUFF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 48.

This is particularly useful for children to tie round the neck, and is knit with fine wool and coarse pins. It may be knit in the raised French stitch, or the open hem, or any other elastic soft stitch.

Set a sufficient number of stitches on the pin to be about two nails wide, and knit six or eight nails long, and when done, sew up along the side, and after drawing a piece of rolled wadding through, draw it, or sew it up at each end, and attach ribbons, or worsted cord to tie it. It resembles a boa in shape.

A SCARF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 49.

Set on sixty stitches (more or less, according to taste), always choosing an even number, and knit along in the “Imitation Network Stitch, No. 8,” to the length required, from one yard and a half to two yards. Next make a fringe by setting on eighteen stitches, and, after knitting a sufficient quantity in the same stitch to sew along the two ends, fasten off, leaving, however, fourteen stitches to unrove, to form the fringe.

These scarfs look beautiful in shaded colours, and may be knit of floss silk, netting silk, cotton, thread, or wool. The above number of stitches is calculated for wool.

ANOTHER SCARF.

This is made of the “French Raised Stitch, No. 31,” and looks exceedingly beautiful, when made with fine wool and small pins.

The number of stitches depends, of course, on the quality of the wool; it is therefore impossible to set down any fixed number; suffice it to say it should be made of the usual width. At the ends fix some long fringe, of which there are various kinds given in this work.

COMFORTER.

PLATE 21. FIG. 50.

For one comforter, buy a quarter of a pound of lamb’s wool. The six thread, untwisted, is the best.

Set forty stitches on a pin, and, if the pins are not very thick, put the wool twice round them while knitting every stitch, which should be knit in double knitting, and may have a border and fringe at the ends to give a finish, in which case, a little more wool will be required.

COMFORTER.

PLATE 21. FIG. 51.

Set thirty stitches on one pin,
Knit sixty-four plain ribs, backwards and forwards,
Pick up twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side
of the piece, leaving twenty-one stitches on each
side from the end.
Knit on backwards and forwards for twenty-two ribs,
to make a chest piece, and fasten off.
Sew up the two ends of the long piece, and it is completed.
When worn, the comforter is drawn over the head, letting
the chest piece hang down in front.
This is knit with soft wool and upon ivory pins.

ANOTHER COMFORTER, THE SAME SHAPE, BUT DONE IN DOUBLE KNITTING.

PLATE 21. FIG. 51.

Set on fifty-four stitches, and knit in double knitting, about sixty-six or seventy rows, and fasten off, by knitting or binding the two ends together.

From the middle of the length in front, pick up stitches for the chest piece, and knit forty rows or more, according to pleasure.

A HANDKERCHIEF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 52.

This is a small and very warm handkerchief, to wear under a shawl or fur tippet, in the winter; it is knit with pretty thick floss wool, either white or coloured, in blue or crimson it looks well; the needles used are either of wood, whalebone, or cane.

Cast on 160 common stitches, and knit one plain row, then nine rows of double knitting with a plain stitch at the beginning and end of each row, continue this double knitting, narrowing at one end, until the handkerchief is brought to five or six stitches, then take it off like a garter. This bottom corner is bound with ribbon, and two strings put on to tie round the waist, the other two ends are also bound, and a ribbon loop put on each, the ribbon passes through these loops, and it fits neatly to the figure.

LITTLE KNIT HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 21. FIG. 53, 54, 55.

These are remarkably nice things to wear under the shawl, as they set close to the chest, and give a great deal of warmth. They are best knit with small wooden or thick steel pins, and with floss wool, about three or four threads, and in double knitting.

The habit-shirt is in four pieces, namely, one back, two fronts and one collar.

The back should be cut out to fit the person tolerably, and the fronts joined to it on the shoulder, and brought across over the chest.

Observe, in the Plate that in Fig. 53, SS represent the straight parts, and PP the sloped.

Begin to knit the front, by setting on as many stitches as will form the length required from S to A, or top, and observe, as you continue knitting, that one end of the knitting must be much more sloped than the other, for which purpose, at that end most sloped, increase at the beginning and end of the row, but at the side which is less sloped, widen only at the end of the pin. Having made the two fronts to match each other so as to be a pair, begin making the back. Begin it at the bottom or narrow straight part at the waist; increase it at the beginning and end of each row, till sufficiently wide to go from shoulder to shoulder; after which, diminish in the same way at each end of every row to the neck. Take off or finish the few centre stitches that may remain, and knit up first on one side, and then on the other, lessening each row till it is properly hollowed.

The collar is merely a straight piece.

In making up, sew the sides marked P, to each side of the back marked ZZ, and sew on the collar all round. Put a ribbon behind, to tie round the waist, and another at the throat.

A PRETTY KNIT HALF-HANDKERCHIEF.

Begin the handkerchief from one stitch, knit as many rows, increasing one stitch every row at the same end, until there are seven loops upon the pin.

Begin the pattern thus:—
Make a stitch,
Slip off a stitch,
Knit two together,
Put the slipped stitch over the two just knitted in one.
Again make a stitch,
Slip off a stitch,
Knit two stitches,
Put the slipped stitch over as before,
Continue thus until four stitches from the end of the row,
then make a stitch, and knit the four remaining stitches
plain.
Knit every alternate row in turn-stitch;
This alternate row must have the three last stitches knit plain,
increasing it by making a stitch.
The handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the
straight side. When done, fasten off.

HONEYCOMB-KNIT SHAWL.

This is made of fine lamb’s wool or yarn; it looks very well when the centre is white, with a shaded border of some bright colour.

For a small shawl, or a large handkerchief, the following quantity is required:—

Three ounces of fine white lamb’s wool.
Two skeins of the darkest shade of colour.
Two skeins of the next.
Two skeins of the next.
One skein of the lightest.

The needles are of wood, rather fine, not so thick as a drawing pencil.

The centre is first knit, beginning with only two loops on your needle, to make the point fine; knit several plain rows, raising one loop in each row; the raising is merely knitting first the outside and then the inside of the last loop, and is continued in every row, whether plain or open, through the whole shawl.

When you have ten loops on your needle begin your pattern, which is done as follows:—

Knit four plain stitches, bring the wool in front of the
needle, and then, taking hold of two loops instead of
one, knit them plainly together; continue this till
within four loops of the end, which must be knit plain.
Always begin and end every open row with four plain
stitches.

Knit three plain rows between each figured one. When you
have from 200 to 250 loops, (which will make a good
sized shawl), begin the border, which looks best dark at
the edges, and shaded up to light in the middle. Before
beginning the border at the top, it is best to knit
three or four plain rows of the white wool; and observe,
that as there is a right and a wrong side to the shawl,
the first row of the border must be continued so as to
suit it, by knitting one, more or less, of the plain
white rows.

Begin with your darkest shade of border, and knit three or
more rows of it, according to taste; then the second,
the third, the lightest, the third again, second, and
darkest, increasing one loop in every row, both open and
plain, as before; the last three or four rows should be
plain, to make the edge firm. Then fasten off.

Begin the side border by taking up all the inside loops, as
those in the heel of a stocking are done, and begin with
the dark shade as at the top, and in the _first row
only_, raise a loop every fifth stitch, which may be
easily done by taking up the little bars or loops that
lie between the stitches; go on as before, raising one
loop at the end of every row.

Be careful to begin all the borders on the same side, as,
in consequence of the manner of taking up the loops,
there is a difference.

The raising the loops at the side border is done to make it set loosely to the shawl, as, if it were not thus enlarged, it would be tight and confined. The corners and point of the border are neatly joined with a needle and thread.

A TIPPET.

PLATE 21. FIG. 56.

Cut out a tippet or cape of the proper shape and size in paper, and then divide it into five equal portions; each portion may be considered a gore, and by measuring by the stitches put on the pin with the pattern, the right number may easily be ascertained. These gores may be made to increase equally on both sides, as in the Plate, or only on one side. Sometimes long ends are continued with the two front gores, to make a sort of mantilla or pelerine.

Neat tippets might be made with advantage for school girls at times when worsteds are cheap.

FOR A PURSE.

Set on one pin ninety or a hundred stitches, knit the first stitch, put the silk over the pin, then slip a stitch and knit a stitch; turn the slipped stitch over the last knit one, and so on all through the pin; then seam the next row, and so on till completed, when fasten off.

FOR A PURSE

Use four pins. If the silk twist be fine it requires two skeins—if coarse, three skeins; or, if to be made of two colours, half that quantity. Cast on your three pins eighteen loops, if fine, or sixteen loops, if coarse, and begin (after one plain row) to knit in raised French stitch (see No. 31); and when sufficient rounds have been completed to form fourteen holes length-wise, knit backwards or forwards on two pins in the same stitch, to form the opening; after complete fourteen more holes or batterns, join the purse again by knitting in three pins, as before, until fourteen more holes are done, when bind down and fasten off.

FOR A PURSE,

Two skeins of silk are sufficient (generally of two colours); use four pins, set on four stitches on each pin; begin to knit plain round and round, widen one stitch each round, until you have eighteen stitches on each pin (measure here how much silk you have used that you may know how much to reserve for narrowing with), then knit one stitch plain and one turned for every round, until time to make the opening, when put all your stitches on one needle, knitting backwards and forwards, taking care to preserve the stitch by knitting the back rows properly, by turning the stitches that were before knit plain, continue this till the one skein is used up, when you are at the middle of your purse; take the other skein as many rows again, backwards and forwards, then join the opening by putting the stitches on three needles, as before, and knit round and round until you have but enough silk left for the narrowing, when begin to knit plain, narrowing every round until reduced to four stitches, as before, on each pin, when fasten off.

FOR A PURSE.

Cast seventy-five stitches on one pin; two skeins of silk are sufficient, and very fine pins are best; after knitting one plain row, continue as follows: knit one stitch plain, and then knit the silk twice round the pin, knit two stitches together in turn stitch; again put the silk twice round the pin, and knit two stitches together in turn stitch, and so on to every row, remembering that the first stitch in every row is knit plain.

PRETTY NEW PURSE PATTERN.

Use four pins and set on each of three pins eighteen or twenty loops,
Knit one plain round, and then continue for another round as follows:—
Bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a stitch,
then turn the slipped stitch over the knit one;
Again bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a
stitch, and turn the slipped stitch over the knit one, and so
on to the end of the round,
Knit the two next rounds plain,
And continue alternately knitting one round of the pattern, and two
rounds plain, until the purse is finished.

RECEIPT FOR A ZEPHYRINE.

This is a very convenient thing to lie over the head instead of a bonnet, especially in travelling, and is generally knit of two colours. It should be knit with Berlin wool, on two rather fine pins, with knobs at the end.

Set on your pin 100 stitches,
Knit a row plain,
Turn, or purl a row,
Repeat this twice more each,
Then change the colour, and continue knitting and purling
alternately, three rows each,
Again change to the first colour, and continue knitting and
purling, three rows more each,
Continue thus changing colour until there are five stripes
of one colour, and six stripes of the other,
when it is finished,
Then gather the ends to a point, bind them with ribbon,
and sew on strings to match the darkest colour.

A ZEPHYR.

This is a soft shawl to lay a baby on, or carry it out in, and is desirable on account of its warmth and lightness. Some are made square, others of a half-handkerchief shape.

In either case, set on about 130 or more stitches, and knit in honeycomb or French raised stitch, the embossed, hexagon, or any other simple pretty pattern preferred. A border and fringe may be added, according to taste, and certainly gives a rich finish to it.

A BABY’S CAP.

Put on eighty stitches on the three pins, so as to have 240 stitches; knit twelve, turning every alternate stitch; in the next row turn the stitch which was plain before; take in eighty stitches, one at every fourth stitch, so as to leave a full border; then knit one row plain, one open row, three rows plain, and twenty-four rows double knitting; then knit three rows plain, one open row, three rows plain, twenty-four rows double knitting, three rows plain, one open row, and three rows plain.

Cast on twenty-four stitches at each end of the first three plain, to form the back of the cap; then knit forty-eight rows double knitting the whole length; then take in gradually to the size of the crown in one row, knit three rows plain, one open row; again three plain; fasten off at the top, join up the back, and knit three rows plain, one open row, and three plain.

The crown is made by putting on sixteen stitches, and increasing one at each end for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen rows; then decrease sixteen rows, which forms the circle.

A BABY’S CAP.

PLATE 21. FIG. 57.

Set on one stitch on each of three pins, and knit a circular piece of knitting in hole-stitch, until there are 110 stitches altogether on the three pins.

Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes,
and one of garter rib,
Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes,
and one rib of garter-stitch,
Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, and one of garter,
Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, one of garter,
two of stocking, and two of garter,
Finish off twenty-two stitches, and divide the remainder
of the stitches on two pins,
Knit three ribs of stocking, making holes at six stitches
distance, which serve for ribbons,
Knit three ribs of garter-stitch, two of stocking, six of
garter, three of stocking, one row of holes, four ribs
of stocking, six ribs of garter, three ribs of stocking,
one row of holes, four ribs of stocking, six ribs of
garter, and three of stocking; after which three more of
stocking, with holes at six stitches distance, to admit
of a second ribbon.
For the border, continue knitting twenty rows in huckaback
stitch; for the border behind, take up the stitches
at the ear on each side, and knit sufficient rows in
huckaback stitch till each strip is long enough to reach
the middle of the back. Put in a ribbon behind, and the
whole is completed.

A BABY’S BONNET OR HOOD.

PLATE 21. FIG. 58.

For the border, set on eighty stitches and knit in huckaback stitch, narrow one stitch at each end of every other row, till you have knit ten rows. Next, commence the head-piece, and knit six rows in double knitting, the one row of holes, eight rows of double knitting, one of holes, and six rows of double knitting, then begin to knit in honeycomb-stitch, fasten off two stitches at the end of each pin, every row until there are but twenty-four on the pin, then fasten off.

For the crown, set on five stitches, widen each row till you have sixteen loops, then knit twelve rows. Narrow at each end for two rows, knit fourteen rows and fasten off. Sew the crown to the head-piece with wool of the same quality.

Begin the curtain by taking up all the stitches at the back, and knitting six rows in double knitting, widening four stitches on each pin; then one row of holes, widening two stitches; then six rows of double knitting still widening, one of holes, widening two stitches, and double knitting, increasing till there are 150 stitches on the pin, then fasten off, and put in ribbons through the holes where wanted.

A GENTLEMAN’S NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 21. FIG. 59.

This cap has a very pretty appearance, something resembling old fashioned insertion-lace, as there is an ornamented border round the head. It is done with fine needles and cotton, and knit round like a stocking. The plan is as follows:—

Cast on any number of stitches, divisable by thirteen.
1st Row. Turn one, knit one, turn one, slip one, knit one.
Draw the slipt loop over, knit six plain, bring the
cotton over, as though going to turn, knit one, bring
your cotton to the top and knit one.

2nd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

3rd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit five,
bring the cotton to the top and knit two.

4th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

5th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit four,
bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton
to the top, knit three.

6th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

7th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit three,
bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton
to the top, knit four.

8th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

9th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit two,
bring the cotton to the top, knit five.

10th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

11th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit one,
bring the cotton to the top, knit six.

12th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit
nine, knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds, knit
one round, throwing the cotton twice over the needle;
turn one round, repeat this until you have eighteen
turned rounds. Knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds,
take four needles, and knit and turn three rounds
alternately, narrowing at each needle end, having a
turn, knit and seam between each narrowing; continue
this until there are four loops on each needle, which
will draw round the tassel.

KNIT BAGS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 60, 61.

Very pretty bags may be made of fantail stitch in silk twist, for which purpose set on as many stitches, divisable by fourteen, as are required for the width of the bag. About four times fourteen or fifty-six stitches will be a useful size, adding, if preferred, four extra stitches on each end, and between each of the fourteen stitches, to separate the pattern more effectually, and make it look richer. These extra stitches will amount to five times four or twenty, making in all seventy-six stitches. Knit the four stitches of any pattern preferred; supposing the open hem, No. 4, is selected, then knit as follows:—

Set on seventy-six stitches, knit four plain ribs,
and six turn-stitch rows.
Open hem the first four stitches,
Fantail the next fourteen stitches,

Open hem the next four stitches, and so on, till the last open hemmed four stitches complete the row.

Continue as above till a sufficient length is done for both sides of the bag, after which, seam it up, and put cord and tassels to complete the whole, lining it or not, according to pleasure.

KETTLE HOLDERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 62.

This is knit in double knitting, with a border of plain ribs round.

Set thirty-two stitches on one pin,
Knit four ribs plain,
Knit double knitting, letting the first four stitches and the
last four stitches of every row be plain knitting.
When the double knit part is quite square, add the four ribs
of plain knitting, to complete the border, and fasten off.
A little loop of twisted wool is put at the top to hang it by.

KNIT MATS, OR KETTLE HOLDERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 63.

This is knit to resemble fringe all over, and when well done looks very pretty.

Use fine needles and a common kind of worsted for knitting the wool fringe, which must be thick and soft.

Set on any number of stitches, and knit one plain row, after which, begin the next row by knitting one plain stitch, then put the wool between the pins round the fingers, and back again between the pins in front, and so on, similar to the rug stitch, No. 33.

KNIT OPEN BRAID.

PLATE 21. FIG. 64.

This is very simple, and if done with cord or thick cotton or worsted, might be very useful for sewing on, to ornament children’s dresses; or if of silk twist, for putting round pincushions, curtains, &c.

Set on one stitch, and knit as many stitches as the longest pin will possibly hold. Knit two rows plain, and then unrove one row by pulling out the pin, and draw the wool through the last loop, to keep it from roving still further. The braid is thus formed, and must be sewed on at each top and bottom loop.

KNIT MATS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 65.

Set on thirty stitches or more, according to the size required, and knit in the two coloured chain-stitch till a square is completed, when make a fringe, No. 1, and sew it round. When completed, cut it and comb it out, taking care not to pull out the bits by drawing too hard.

COVERLET.

PLATE 21. FIG. 66.

This is knit with cotton, and is composed of several squares sewed together. These squares are begun at one corner, commencing with two stitches, and increasing to fifty or more, by widening at each end of each row. It is then decreased by narrowing at each end of each row, and fastened off when two stitches are left on the pins. These squares are often ornamented, sometimes by knitting one row turn-stitch, seven rows plain, backwards and forwards, and so on, so as to form three ribs garter, and one rib stocking-stitch.

Some persons ornament each square differently, others merely sew them, so that the rows shall run or lie in different positions. A border with fringe may be put round, for which purpose, refer to the stitches for fringes, &c.

The huckaback pattern is very suitable for coverlets.

BLANKETS.

These are usually made for infants’ cradles and invalids, on account of their warmth and lightness; they should be knit with very large pins and thick wool, and in double knitting all the way, having a border of imitation double knitting or huckaback all round, to keep them more in place.

Set on from 100 to 200 stitches, according to the size
required, knitting about ten ribs of border, after which
the remainder is plain double knitting. Observe that the
first and last eight or ten loops on each end of the pin
be knit in the border-stitch.

COTTON DOYLEYS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 67.

These are very pretty, and may be made in various stitches.

The following is a particularly pretty way:—

Set on thirty-eight stitches,
Knit two plain ribs,
Continue knitting two plain stitches and two turn stitches,
remembering every two ribs to knit plain stitches over
turn stitches, and turn stitches over plain, so as to
form a kind of ornamental knitting, resembling huckaback
or checks.
Observe, the two last, as well as the two first stitches of
every row are plain, to continue the border; also knit
two plain ribs to correspond, before fastening off. Sew
in the fringe, No. 2.

ANOTHER DOYLEY.

This is similar to the one before, excepting that it is knit in honeycomb or hole-stitch.

A HANDSOME BORDER AND CORNERS FOR A SHAWL.

This is a very beautiful pattern when properly done, and would answer well for a shawl, a baby’s zephyrine, a mat, carpet, counterpane, or any other article enclosed in a square.

The border (which is a kind of fantail stitch) is ended at each corner by squares, which gives great lightness to the whole.

In beginning one of these corners, set on but two stitches on the pin to form the point; and observe, as you go on, to increase one stitch at the end of every row, until the square or diamond is knit to a sufficient width (say thirteen rows) when decrease every row one stitch at the end, until the number of loops on your pin is reduced to two again, when fasten off, and the square is completed.

The stitch with which the square is knitted is formed as follows; and the number of ribs at the side should be divisable by six and one over, to be the proper width for the border; thirteen is a very good number of ribs.

Begin the square by knitting plain every row until you have thirteen stitches on your pin (remembering to increase one stitch at the end of each row) and then continue as below.

1st Row. Knit six stitches plain,
Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch,
Knit two together,
Knit the remaining stitches plain.

Next Row. Knit plain,
Knit six stitches plain,
Pass the cotton in front, to make a stitch,
Knit two stitches together,
Pass the cotton in front again, to make a stitch,
Knit two stitches together,
Knit the remaining stitches plain.

Next Row. Knit plain.

Continue the above, observing that every alternate row is
knit plain, and the rows between knit in the above
stitch; always leaving six plain stitches at each end of
the pin, to make a kind of little border to the square.

When complete, begin the border by picking up the stitches on one side of the square, and then continue thus:—

1st Row. Seam a stitch,
Knit a stitch,
Seam a stitch,
Knit two stitches,
Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch.
Knit a stitch.
Repeat the same for six more stitches; then,
Knit one stitch.

Next Row. Knit a stitch,
Seam a stitch,
Knit a stitch,
Knit two together,
Seam eleven stitches,
Knit two together.

Next Row. Seam a stitch,
Knit one,
Seam one,
Knit two together,
Knit nine plain,
Knit three together.

Next Row. Knit a stitch,
Seam a stitch,
Knit a stitch,
Knit two together,
Seam seven stitches,
Knit two together.

Continue these four rows successively, until the border is long
enough to insert another corner or square, as before.

GENTLEMAN’S TRAVELLING CAPS.

These are remarkably pretty and comfortable, and should be made of shaded wool or silk, and are knit with two pins only.

Set on an even number of stitches,

Knit the first row plain;

Observe to slip off the first stitch of every row
throughout, and continue as follows:—

1st Row. (After slipping the first stitch) put the wool in front
to make a stitch,
Slip off a stitch the contrary way,
Knit a stitch, as before,
Continue this until at the end of the row,

Next Row. (After, as usual, slipping off the 1st stitch) knit two
stitches together the whole way, leaving one at the
end to knit plain. Repeat this.

SOFA FOOT COVERS, OR WARMERS.

These are useful for the feet of an invalid, when lying on the sofa, and are knit as follows:—

Set on one pin 174 stitches, and knit one plain row, after
which knit eleven or twelve rows in any fancy stitch
to form a border, and then commence double knitting,
remembering to continue the border pattern at each side,
by knitting the first and last twelve stitches on the
pin, every row in the same fancy stitch.

Continue this until your work is square, when open it like
a bag, which must be done by gently taking out your pin
and picking up the loops on two pins, each pin taking up
the alternate loops. Knit a similar border as that made
at the beginning, to each pin of stitches, and fasten
off. The foot warmer, or bag, is then completed, and may
have a fringe sewn on all round, to give a finish to the
whole.

RETICULE BAG.

This is knit in two colours, say violet and green.

Set on your pin any number of stitches divisible by six,
(about seventy-eight is a good size), and, after
knitting one plain row, fasten on the other colour and
knit six stitches with the violet and six with the
green, alternately, to the end of the row.

Next row, knit entirely turn-stitch, still knitting six
stitches, alternately, of the two colours, taking care
that each colour shall be knit in continuation of
itself, so as to form distinct stripes.

Continue knitting alternate rows of plain stitch and
seam-stitch, until the work is so long, as when doubled
will form a well-proportioned reticule bag. Observe, in
passing the wool behind of one colour across the other,
not to pull it tight; when completed, fasten off; line
with buckram and flannel and violet green or gold silk;
put a cord of silk or wool all round, with cord handles
and tassels.

This makes a durable handsome bag, and may be knit of even
more colours or shades, if preferred.

Reticules knit with other stitches look very pretty, as the herring-bone back-stitch,

The two coloured rib-stitch,
The two coloured chain-stitch.

Or the above striped pattern may be varied by arranging the stripes in checks instead.

Papier machée tops are now made for bags, which look very handsome.

KNIT PETTICOAT.

For delicate children, a knit petticoat is far warmer and lighter than a flannel one, and is knit in double knitting, or in imitation double knitting:—for a child of four or six years of age, set on 400 stitches and knit the proper length, when finish with a few plain rows and fasten off. Sew up the seam to the proper distance behind.

CHILD’S KNIT STAYS.

As stays vary so very much in size, according to the make of the child, it would be difficult to form a receipt, as they should fit well, and the styles of knitters vary so much. It is better to cut, in paper, the exact shape of the stay, and then knit your stay to match it, by constantly measuring. Set on sufficient stitches on your pin to form the depth of the end of the stay, and knit several plain rows until the rise of the shoulder.

Add a stitch at the beginning of every rib until it is sufficiently raised or hollowed, to form the beginning of the shoulder-strap, then begin to hollow for the arm-hole, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of one row, and the end of the next, and so on, until the hole is deep enough, when commence increasing in the same proportion, to form the rise inside the arm-hole.

The body in front should be slightly hollowed towards the middle, and the remainder half of the body finished in the same manner, therefore, it is advisable to set down every widening and narrowing as you do it, in order that the one half may exactly correspond with the other.

These bodies generally have tape shoulder straps, but knit ones can easily be attached, by picking up six stitches on the shoulder, knitting a narrow strip.

They are generally straight at the bottom, and are usually knit of cotton, and are very elastic.

SILK WATCH GUARD.

Set on your pin seven or nine stitches, or even more if the silk is very fine.

Knit in common knitting a yard and a half in length.

Some thread their silk with beads, either black or gold, and introduce them in the knitting to form the initials or name of the wearer, or to make fanciful devices; others knit it entirely with beads of one or more colours, introducing one bead at every stitch, but the plain knitting is the neatest and handsomest of the three kinds, the other two being too gay for daily wear.

CHECKED NAPKIN RINGS.

Choose two colours, say green and gold, set on your pin with the green wool twenty-four stitches and knit one plain row, and then knit as follows:—

1st Row. Knit plain four stitches, alternately of each colour,
to the end of the row.

2nd Row. Turn-stitch (four stitches alternately of each colour)
to the end of the row, observing to keep the gold colour
over the gold, and green over the green
.
3rd Row. Plain knit, as in the first row.

4th Row. Turn-stitch, as in the second row.

Repeat these four rows.

The next eight rows are knit exactly the same way, excepting that the colours are arranged so that the green is placed over the gold, and the gold over the green.

Continue alternately changing the situation of the colours every eight rows, until about one and a half nail in length is knit, when fasten off, line with buckram or wire, and silk, putting a bow at the seam where the ends are sewn together, and it is completed. Some knit these in the two coloured rib and two coloured chain-stitch.

SOFA SHAWL.

These are very expensive, but useful for invalids, on account of their warmth and lightness.

Set on five or six hundred stitches and knit a square of double knitting, or imitation double knitting, either with or without a border, if the latter is preferred, the one which is explained with corners is the handsomest, unless fringe is also required, when one of the fringe borders may be added at once.

A BOSOM FRIEND.

Set on your pin seventy stitches, and knit in imitation knitting for about 100 rows, when knit twenty-five stitches of the next row, after which take another pin and fasten off the next twenty stitches, then knit the last twenty-five stitches on another pin.

Continue knitting the twenty-five stitches on one pin in the same stitch, fastening off one stitch at every end and beginning of each row, next to the middle, which forms the hollowing round the neck.

When the stitches are reduced to four, fasten off.

Do the same with the other pin containing twenty-five stitches, and fasten off.

Sew pieces of white ribbon to the corners, to hang it by round the neck.

Some persons do not hollow out bosom friends, but knit them square or oblong.

BRACES FOR GENTLEMEN.

These may be knit in wool, cotton, or even silk. The following receipt is for cotton braces (the wool would require fewer stitches, and the silk more than the cotton).

The shape of a brace is wide in the middle, with two narrow ends.

For the first narrow end, set on twenty-four stitches, and knit two nails in length, in imitation of double knitting, or in huckaback stitch. Widen to forty-eight stitches, and knit a length of nine nails.