Chapter VI: Women’s Shifts (7)

Gentlemen’s shirts are cut much on the same principle, but upon a more liberal plan than those mentioned for the labouring classes, with a few exceptions: such as some varieties in the pattern and size of binders, collars, shoulder-straps, &c. In most of them also, a piece of the linen is cut out in the front or bosom, and two pieces of cambric, or fine lawn, either plaited, or fulled in the place, to form the two sides or half fronts to the shirt. A scale is first given of different sizes, and then the best of the various patterns will be explained.

SCALE.

+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
| | 6 Years. | 8 Years. | 10 Years.|
+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls.|Yds. nls. |
|Quantity of cloth required | | | |
| for 1, about | 2 7 | 2 15 | 3 3 |
|Quantity required for six, about |14 10 | 16 4 |20 10 |
|Proper width of cloth | 9 | 9 | 10 |
|Whole length of shirt | 1 8 | 1 9 | 1 12 |
|Space to leave for shoulders | 2 | 2¼ | 3 |
|Length of arm-holes | 3 | 3¼ | 3¾ |
|Slit at the bottom for flaps | 3 | 4 | 4 |
|Width of sleeve | 4½ |6½ or 7 nls| 6 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage| 6½ | 7 | 8 |
|Width of binders or linings | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 6½ | 8 | 8 |
|Width of collar |4 or 5 nls | 2 |5 or 6 nls|
|Length down the selvage | 6 | 6 | 7 |
|Width of wristband | 1½ | 2 | 2 |
|Length down the selvage | 2½ |3 or 3½ nls| 3½ |
|Width of shoulder-straps | 1 | 1 | |
|Length down the selvage | 3 | 3 | 4 |
|Size of sleeve-gussets | 2 | 2 | 3 |
|Size of neck-gusset | 1½ | 1½ | 1¾ |
|Length of piece to cut for bosom | | 5 | 5 |
|Width of ditto | | 3 | 3½ |
|Width of cambric to put | | | |
| in each side | | 4 | 4 |
|Width of shoulder-strap, if gored| 1½ | 2 | 2 |
|Widest width to be gored to | 1 | 1½ | 1½ |
|Width of frills if used | | ½ | ¾ |
|Bosom flap and wrist-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ |
|Slit for bosom | 4 | 5 | 5 |
+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+
| | 12 Years. | 16 Years. | Men’s | Men’s |
| | | | Small | Large |
+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls.|
|Quantity of cloth required | | | | |
| for 1, about | 2 14 | 3 5 | 3 9½ | 3 15 |
|Quantity required for six, about | 18 9 | 18 9 |20 11 |22 7½ |
|Proper width of cloth | 12 | 14 | 14½ | 16 |
|Whole length of shirt | 1 13 | 2 0 | 2 2 | 2 4 |
|Space to leave for shoulders | 3¼ | 3½ | 3½ | 3½ |
|Length of arm-holes | 4½ | 4½ | 5 | 5 |
|Slit at the bottom for flaps | 4½ | 4½ | 4½ | 4½ |
|Width of sleeve | 6 or 7 nls| 7 | 7¼ | 8 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage| 9 | 9 | 9 | 11 |
|Width of binders or linings | 2 | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 12 | 9 | 11 | 11 |
|Width of collar |2 or 2½ nls| 2½ |2 or 3 nls| 4 |
|Length down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 |
|Width of wristband | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 |
|Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
|Width of shoulder-straps | 2 | 2 | 1¼ | 1½ |
|Length down the selvage | 6 | 4½ | 4½ | 5 |
|Size of sleeve-gussets | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | 3½ |
|Size of neck-gusset | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 | 2 |
|Length of piece to cut for bosom | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
|Width of ditto | 4 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
|Width of cambric to put | | | | |
| in each side | 4 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
|Width of shoulder-strap, if gored| 2¼ | 2½ | 2½ | 2½ |
|Widest width to be gored to | 1¾ | 2 | 2 | 2 |
|Width of frills if used | ¾ | 1 | 1 | 1¼ |
|Bosom flap and wrist-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | ½ |
|Slit for bosom | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+

Fig 1 Fig 14 Fig 16 Fig 30

Fig 7 Fig 15 Fig 31 Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 32

Fig 8 Fig 17 Fig 28

Fig 9 Fig 18 Fig 20

Fig 10 Fig 2 Fig 19 Fig 33

Fig 11 Fig 3 Fig 21 Fig 36 Fig 34 Fig 35

Fig 12 Fig 4 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 37 Fig 38

Fig 13 Fig 5 Fig 24 Fig 39 Fig 40

Fig 6 Fig 25 Fig 41 Fig 42]

GENTLEMEN’S SHIRT FRONTS.

PLATE 18.

There are various modes of making up fronts, dependant on the age and taste of the wearer, as well as upon the changes of fashion. The material of which the front is made, should be of a width as to allow of the two half fronts being cut in the breadth; the length is measured from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the opening prepared for it, allowing plenty to turn in at each end. The two halves having been made up according to fancy, are put into the front, making them overlap each other a full nail, exactly in the middle (see Fig. 2), which prevents the slit opening and exposing the skin. The most approved fronts, and those in general use, are the following:—

A YOUNG CHILD’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 1.

Is generally quite plain, with a broad hem and small pearl buttons; it should overlap half a nail.

A BOY’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is neatly gathered in, and at the end marked A, the fulling is set into a band of calico or linen, according to the material of the shirt, into which the shirt itself is also gathered.

AN OLDER BOY’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3.

These are usually secured in broad or narrow plaits, according to taste, at both ends, but not stitched down the whole way. The advantage of this is to permit of the first being pulled over when washed and ironed, at the same time that it naturally arranges itself in regular plaits whilst worn. The hem is sometimes made to project from the collar to half its depth at the top, where a little corner is left, attached to which is a button-hole which buttons it over to the other side of the collar.

ANOTHER BOY’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 4.

This is arranged in small neat tucks, and is more adapted to young boys than the last. The make of this shirt differs from the others in most particulars. The front is entire, but with false buttons, and it opens behind, where there is a slit for the purpose in both shirt and collar. Many boys have their shirts made in this manner, but the washerwomen complain much of the trouble of ironing these closed fronts.

A GENTLEMAN’S SHIRT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 5.

This front is stitched down with the greatest neatness, in the most perfectly regular plaits, either broad or narrow, according to the fashion. The distance of the spaces between the plaits also varies much; sometimes an equal distance with the width of the plait is observed, at others only a half or a quarter, and sometimes the plaits are made to overlap one another: this last mode looks heavy and common. Either buttons or two sets of button-holes are put, to admit of shirt studs, in which case, the buttons of one side are straight down the hem, and the corresponding button-holes on the other side are cut width-wise.

ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 6.

This is fulled evenly at the top and bottom, and a frill of the finest cambric, sewed on to both sides. Sometimes the front is sewed in plain, and two frills sewed on one side, without any on the other, but this is rather an old fashioned shirt.

SHOULDER-STRAPS.

The shoulder-straps to gentlemen’s shirts vary also a little, but the plain long strap, Fig. 1 and 7, is the one most usually approved of, nevertheless the few following shapes will be explained, for the benefit of those who may like to adopt them.

A CHILD’S SHOULDER-STRAP.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

The skirt of this shirt is carried straight up to the neck-gusset, which alone forms the strap, while an extra neck-gusset, the same size, is sewed on to the skirt at B, to lengthen the shoulder; this gusset must be cut in two parts, to admit of the fulling of the sleeve between the pieces. All the sleeve is fulled into this gusset, and the sleeve-gusset below, forms the rest of the arm-holes.

A SHOULDER-STRAP FOR ANY SIZED SHIRT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3, 8, 9.

Some straps, instead of being continued over the neck-gusset, are divided, or split into two parts, for about half their length, and are made to be laid along, the one on each side of the neck-gusset. The piece is cut in a straight length, and merely slit far enough to admit of the neck-gusset between.

ANOTHER SHOULDER-STRAP.

PLATE 18. FIG. 4, 10.

This forms shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at once, and has a neat appearance. The strip of cloth must be of the proper length and width for straps when gored, as mentioned in the Scale: after being gored, this piece of cloth is set on the shoulder, with, of course, the wide end towards the collar.

SLEEVES FOR LITTLE SHIRTS.

Young boys often have short sleeves confined into a band, as in the right hand sleeve of the shirt marked Fig. 1.

ANOTHER SLEEVE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is often worn by children of the working classes, and is merely a large gusset doubled, and sewed on double (see the right hand sleeve of Fig. 2).

AN OLDER BOY’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3.

This is made similar to those of a regular shirt, excepting that sometimes half a gusset only is sewed on to the sleeve instead of a square. This is less clumsy, and with a thin arm is more comfortable, though, generally speaking, the square gusset is the best, both for wear and for appearance.

VARIOUS WAYS OF PLAITING THE SKIRT IN FRONT.

When the part is cut out in front, a piece of cambric that is not so wide is put in for the front, so that the skirt below the slit is full and requires confining; this is done in various ways:—

Sometimes in regular fulling, as in Fig. 2. Sometimes in regular plaits, as in Fig. 3. Sometimes in gathers, brought much in front, as Fig. 4. Sometimes in double plaits. Sometimes in plaits, stitched down, as in Fig 5.

VARIOUS SHAPES OF WRISTBANDS.

The most common shaped wristband, and one of the neatest, is that which is perfectly straight, and stitched neatly all round.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 1, 13.

Fig. 13 is a favourite shape, especially for boys. It is pointed; care must be taken in stitching it, to make the right side lie on the outside, when turned back, as in Fig. 1 (see the wristband attached to the sleeve).

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 11.

This is a very neat shape, and accords with the collar of the shirt, Fig. 6. It is stitched all round, neat button-holes made, and buttons sewed on.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 12.

This is remarkably pretty, and is much worn. The wristband when unturned is nearly as wide again as its proper width, not including the stitched hems.

BINDERS AND LININGS.

Shirts should always have binders or linings, and these vary in a few particulars. The binder is intended to strengthen that part of the shirt brought most into play by the movement of the arms, especially at the back, and also prevent the wear and tear of the braces.

Gentlemen’s shirts have usually the binders very narrow, so as to leave a pretty wide space between each binder and the front, as in Fig. 4. It is however thought preferable by prudent wives, either to increase the width of the binder, so as to join the front, as in Fig. 5, or else to have a second binder or lining smaller than the first, between the regular lining and the front (see A, Fig. 6).

GENTLEMEN’S AND BOYS’ COLLARS.

These vary so very much, according to the make of the neck and chin, as also the taste of the wearer, that only a few general patterns will be introduced as guides.

Many gentlemen prefer having a narrow band sewed on to the shirt, as in Fig. 5, about three-quarters of a nail deep, on which they fasten the collar, by letting the shirt button slip through a button-hole made in the middle of the collar.

Collars are always of double lawn or linen.

A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 1,

is a neat finish to a shirt, being a simple broad band back-stitched, and a fine cambric or lawn frill crimped and sewed at the top. The band should be one nail deep, when made up.

AN OLDER BOY’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is a very pretty collar also for the children of friends, being particularly simple. It is, when made up, about two nails and a half deep. As it falls over the jacket, observe to stitch it properly. It would suit the wristbands in Fig. 12.

OTHER COLLARS FOR OLDER BOYS.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3,

Is merely a straight band about one nail deep, and Fig. 4 is the same a little curved, so as to be deeper and more pointed in front than at the back, which gives a light appearance.

A MAN’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 6.

See Fig. 6. This is a very neat collar, for an elderly gentleman especially, and when made up, is about two nails and a quarter deep. The front is curved, and rather deeper than the back (say half a nail): to this collar should be worn wristbands, Fig. 11.

ANOTHER COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 14.

This is a neat shape, but, as it is doubtful whether it would suit every one, it should be cut in paper, and tried on. The Plate only represents one half, the letter A being the centre. It should be sewed into a band.

A NEAT GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 15.

This is the most approved sort, and may be sewed to the shirt, or to a loose band. The half or gills, are cut crosswise of the cloth, and four of them make one collar, as they are double; in sewing them on the band, two places are left to form a kind of long button-hole, through which the strings are put when tying it on. A button-hole in the middle of the collar, enables it to be firmly fastened to the shirt, as also do the two strings sewed to the band. Fig. 17 is one gill, and Fig. 18, the band.

ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 27.

This is also sewed upon a band, and is a remarkably pretty shape, if cut according to the plan of the drawing, on which the measurements of the nails are marked. The band, Fig. 28, has in it two button-holes; it is about one nail deep, and eight nails long. The collar is cut all in one length, and slit down in the middle to within half a nail of the bottom, thus making the slit one nail deep.

A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 20, 21.

These are particularly pretty collars for little boys of from six to eight or nine. They are made of double Irish linen stitched round, and made to fall over the dress. Frills are sometimes attached to them, and suit young children very well; two or three button-holes are made in them, to attach them to the shirt. A broad black ribbon is generally worn with them round the neck.

A MAN’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 19.

These are worn by men and boys, to put on over a soiled or tumbled shirt, to give a neat appearance; they are, however, seldom used, it being much better to put on a clean shirt at once. It has two sides of fine lawn, with a front of cambric, which is plaited or gathered, according to pleasure, with a false hem down the middle, and buttons, so as to appear to open. This is hollowed under the neck, to the depth of a nail; two neck-gussets are attached, of one nail and a half square.

The gussets and front are sewed to a band or collar eight nails long, and about one nail and a half in depth before it is made up.

A BOY’S CHEAT OR FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 23, 24, 25.

This is a kind of habit-shirt, to which a collar with a frill is attached. Fig. 23 is the collar, which should be neatly stitched, and a frill of fine lawn or cambric, half a nail in the whole depth, set on round it. Fig. 24 is the habit-shirt of the dimensions marked on the Plate, and Fig. 5 is the cheat completed, when sewed together.

A GENTLEMAN’S STOCK.

PLATE 18. FIG. 26.

Gentlemen’s stocks are worn round the neck over the collar, and are made of stuff, muslin, horse-hair or buckram: the Figure is the shape of half of one. The halves are sewed firmly together up the centre (see M); they are bound round the edge with leather, and covered with satin, mode, or rich twilled silk. They are sometimes made, as in Fig. 29, with a fold of silk in the middle, through which two ends are passed; these are of one piece of silk, cut the cross way, and are four nails broad, and seven nails long, rounded a little at the ends.

CRAVATS.

They are generally made of fine muslin, and are the shape of a half handkerchief, being cut from a square of eighteen nails.

CLERGYMAN’S DRESS.

The cassock, the gown, the surplice, the badge or sash, the scarf or hood, and the bands, constitute the chief.

THE CASSOCK.

PLATE 18. FIG. 34, 35.

It is made sometimes of stuff, sometimes of rich black silk, in the following manner:—Cut four breadths of silk, one yard and a half long each. Two breadths form the front, and are sewed together; after which, a gore is cut from each outer side, the width of half the breadth at the top, sloped to a point at the bottom, by which means, when reversed and the seams are sown, the front is increased at the bottom to three breadths, while at the top it is reduced to one.

The other two breadths form the back; they are gored in the same manner, excepting that the gore is only a quarter of a breadth wide at the bottom.

The shoulder is hollowed down two nails. The shoulder is two and a half or three nails long. The arm-hole is three nails deep. The arm-hole is cut into the stuff one nail. The collar is six nails long, four nails wide behind, and two nails wide in front.

The sleeve is shaped like a coat sleeve, with two seams down it, three-quarters of a yard long, and the whole width of the silk, which just admits of its being shaped off in the width. The wristband is four nails long, and about two nails wide. The pocket is six nails long, and just the width of the breadth of silk, which, when doubled, forms it.

In making up, run and fell the seams very neatly, making the two gores fall together between the front and back breadths.

The hem down the opening in front, is half a nail broad.

The back has a piece of sufficient width cut out from the top, A, to the waist, B (Fig. 35), to admit of its setting plain to the figure, and from the waist the skirt is left open; the extra fulness may be confined in two large plaits behind.

The top of the front is cut on each side to a point, and on each point is a little loop or button-hole; one loop fastens to a button inside near the collar, see A (Fig. 34), and the other outside, to a button at the opposite side of the neck (see B).

The collar is sewed on to the back of the cassock, so as to leave off on each side, just at the turn in front, thus allowing plenty of space for the bands. The pocket is put in straight, under the right arm, about four nails below the arm-hole (see the dotted line, Fig. 34).

The sleeves are lined with black twilled cotton, the wristbands are also lined and turned up.

A cross-way piece of silk is laid on at the bottom of the collar of the cassock inside, and also in front at A B (Fig. 34).

THE GOWN.

PLATE 18. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40.

This is made of fine bombazine, and contains four breadths, of nineteen nails long, and four gores of the same length, and three nails and a half wide at the bottom, sloped to a point at the top.

Two of these breadths fall behind, next are sewed the two gores, one on each side, and then the one breadth to hang in front on each side.

The sleeves are one yard long, and, when open, thirteen nails wide. At the end they are shaped according to Fig. 39, 40: the end, A B, being but three nails wide, and a piece cut out at C, at four nails from A. At five nails from the shoulder, a slit is made in front (see S), through which the arms appear, whilst the remainder of the sleeve is sewed up all round. At the back of the sleeve, two gores of one nail and a half wide, and two nails and a half long, are put in.

The shoulder-piece is cut according to Fig. 36.

The distance from A to B being three nails, and the depth of the sides, C to E, D to E two nails and a half, while that in the middle is only one nail and a quarter.

In making up, after sewing the seams, &c. together, and making a hem of about one nail broad all round, the two back breadths of the skirt should be fulled into the middle of the shoulder-piece. This fulling is biassed down at about the distance of one nail and a half below the first gathering. The two gores are set in on each side into the sleeve, which is set into the shoulder-piece, and also biassed; the other breadth comes in front.

The shoulder-piece is lined with buckram and silk, or black glazed calico, to make it more durable.

THE SURPLICE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 32, 33.

This is made of fine Irish linen, one yard wide, and has in it four breadths of one yard and a half long; two breadths being behind, and one on each side of the opening in front. Besides these four breadths, a gore, three nails wide and carried up to a point, is put between the front and back breadths, up to below the arm.

The straight part of the gore comes in front. The sleeve, Fig. 33, is one yard and one nail long, and the whole width of the linen in the breadth. The sleeve has two gussets in it; that in front of the sleeve, or nearest the wrist, is thirteen nails square; the other gusset, which also forms part of the arm-hole, is five nails and a half square.

The collar is thirteen nails long, and five nails and a half in its whole width.

In making up, run and fell the seams, letting in the gores, observing to put the straight part in front. Hem down the fronts half a nail deep, and at the bottom one nail. The sleeve is very peculiar, and requires attention in making up (see Fig. 32, 33). The large gusset is put into the sleeve towards the wrist, so as to hang down very low below the arms. This gusset is rounded off at the corner, A; and forms the other corner of the gusset, B, along the doubled part, B A, cut open a piece large enough to admit of the small gusset being sewed into it; D is the doubled part of each gusset. The whole of the top of the sleeve is gathered up into the neck at the collar, while part of the side of the sleeve and the small gusset form the part that fits into the arm-hole of the surplice; the skirt is all fulled into the collar, together with the top of the two sleeves, and then nicely biassed down in two rows below the collar.

The collar is stitched all round like that of a shirt.

THE SASH OR BADGE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 30.

It is made of rich black silk or satin.

It is the whole breadth of the silk in depth, and three-quarters of a yard long. It is folded in three or four regular plaits until it is about two nails broad; these plaits are confined at the ends by sewing them to double pieces of silk (see A), which are cut out two nails square, and rounded off at the outer ends, to a half circular form. Strings of ribbon of 3d. width, are sewed to these ends, which tie round the waist.

THE SCARF OR HOOD.

This is made of silk, but of such various forms, depending on the degree of the wearer, and the college where he has been educated, that it is needless to enter upon the subject in detail.

THE BANDS.

PLATE 18. FIG. 31.

They are made of the finest cambric, and are about two nails deep, and one nail wide when hemmed. The hem being a quarter of a nail deep. They should be a little hollowed at the top, to fit the neck. The two bands are sewed to a tape in the inside, which ties round the neck.

THE CLERK’S GOWN.

PLATE 18. FIG. 41, 42.

The clerk’s gown is made of black stuff or calimanco.

Cut four breadths of about one yard and a half long; these breadths when sewed together, leaving one open for the front, are biassed behind, from the middle of the second to the middle of the third breadth; this biassing is in three rows from the collar, the first row being one quarter of a nail below it, and the two others at one nail distant from each other.

The shoulders are next sloped from the remainder, like those of a pinafore, being three nails and a half long, and sewed up. The arm-hole is cut into the front breadth at the distance of one nail beyond the first seam, and is five nails long. The shoulder-flaps are one nail and a half deep, by five long.

The sleeve is the whole width of the breadth, about six nails wide when doubled, and is fifteen or sixteen nails long; at six nails from the top, the slit is cut in the sleeves of two nails deep on each side of the top of the arm. The bottom of the sleeve is sewed up together, and when done, instead of sewing them as the sleeve would naturally lie, the stuff at the bottom is differently folded, so as to make the two creases lie together, and thus distorts or twists the sleeve.

Strings are put to the collar, which is cut like Fig. 13, Plate 16. A broad hem is made in front, and at the bottom.

CHILDREN’S BONNETS.

PLATE 19.

The first bonnet for infants after the hood (see Chap. 4, in baby-linen), should be soft and warm, and till they are two or three years old, children should wear them of cloth, merino, silk, satin, print, or calico, in preference to straw, or pasteboard. Bonnets should be light but warm, and for young children especially, should have little trimming or ornament. A few pretty and simple shapes for both the upper and lower classes are here given and explained.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SIX YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 1, 2, 3.

This may be made of cloth, merino, chintz, or nankeen, with cotton runners. It is in three parts, the brim, front or poke, the crown, and the round patch.

Cut first a paper pattern the whole size of each part of the bonnet, the Plate represents but half, therefore double the paper and cut it by the figure. Your paper must be five nails wide by four long, for the poke, Fig. 2.

Measure along the top, A B, two and three-quarter nails, the point, C, is exactly half way down the side, two nails from the top and bottom; the point, G, is two nails from the side, and one and a half nails from the top; curve along B G C. E is two and a half nails from the corner; from C to E, must be gradually sloped or rounded: go on, sloping it easily, up to F, which is one and a half nails from the top; from F to A, is quite straight.

The crown comes next; your paper must be four nails square, when doubled at D. From the corner to H, is half a nail, from H to I, two nails, slope gradually to K, which is two and a quarter nails from the top: cut in a straight line from K to L, which is situated two nails from the corner, and again in a straight line from L to M, one and a quarter nail from the bottom. From M to H, is slightly curved. The patch is made to fit the crown.

Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3

Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10

Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15

Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19

Fig. 20 Fig. 21 Fig. 22

Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26

Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Fig. 29

Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32

Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35

Fig. 36 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 39

Fig. 40 Fig. 41 Fig. 42 Fig. 43

Fig. 44 Fig. 45 Fig. 46 Fig. 47

Fig. 48 Fig. 49 Fig. 51

Fig. 50 Fig. 52

Fig. 53 Fig. 54 Fig. 55

Fig. 56 Fig. 57

Fig. 59 Fig. 60 Fig. 58

Fig. 61 Fig. 62 Fig. 63

Fig. 64 Fig. 65 Fig. 66]

In making up, a lining is cut out exactly the size of the outside, run the two together on the wrong side, at the edge of the brim, and turn them; then run cotton cords between the lining and the outside, as in the Plate, and two or three are put round the edge to give it firmness: runners are also made in the crown and the patch, the latter having a cord all round it, and they are then sewed strongly together, the part, H M, fitting into B G C, and the patch into I K. A curtain, one nail and a half in depth, is put on rather full behind, and strings of the chintz, or calico neatly hemmed, or of ribbon will complete it.

The size here given is for a child five years old, but it is a useful kind of bonnet for those much younger.

CHILD’S DRAWN BONNET.

PLATE 19. FIG. 4, 5, 6.

This is usually made of silk, satin, or glazed calico.

The poke or front (Fig. 5), is an oblong, which is cut two or more nails down the selvage, according to the depth desired, and of such a length (cut width-way of the material), as will be two and a half times the length from ear to ear. This oblong is hemmed at each side, and bobbins put in to draw it up: two runners are made at equal distances between to draw up. The crown or head-piece, Fig. 6, is in one piece, and is also an oblong, about one nail deeper than the poke, and a fourth longer. Make runners down each side, and three or four equal distances between.

In making up the bonnet, the poke is drawn up to the proper size, and a double piping laid round it. The crown is then formed by drawing up the first runner as close as possible, and the second sufficiently so to make it flat and circular. The remainder is drawn to the proper shape to form the head-piece, being less drawn at each succeeding runner to make it wider at the bottom. Lay on a band of silk piped at each end, and sew it firmly round, and then attach the poke to it. Next make a soft lining to the head-piece, and a circular piece of wool in muslin may be attached to the crown, to keep it in shape. A curtain and strings complete the bonnet. A quilling of ribbon round the edge, and a rosette at the side, give a greater finish.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 10.

This is a remarkably neat little bonnet; it is in four parts. The poke is a plain piece two nails and a half deep, by ten nails and a half long, sloped off at the outer edge one nail and a half at each end, it is ornamented with cotton runners, quilted or braided; cut a strip, Fig. 8, nine nails long by one nail and a half wide, which must have a runner at each edge, and the same in rows across, to give it firmness, if it is not quilted or braided; the third part is another strip sixteen nails long, and three nails and a quarter wide at the widest part, sloped off nearly to a point at each end, Fig. 10; the horse-shoe, two nails and a quarter long, and one nail and three quarters broad at the top, is lined and has a cord run all round the edge. The curtain is one nail and a half deep, put on rather full.

In making up, sew the quilted poke or front strongly to the straight strip, Fig. 8; gather the sloped strip, Fig. 10, at each edge, set it on one side into the straight piece, and on the other into the horse-shoe, fulling it more in front than at the sides. Put on the curtain, and the bonnet is finished. It draws up behind to the side of the head; here it is represented as undrawn.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD TWO YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.

This is well adapted for a child’s first or second bonnet, and looks well, made of coloured kerseymere or Indiana braided or worked in chain-stitch.

To cut out the poke, take a piece of paper, which when doubled is four nails long by two and a half nails wide (see Fig. 12), the doubled part from D to B, is two nails long; slope off gradually from A to E, beginning the greatest sloping at F, which is about half way down the side; the point E is one nail and a half from the corner, continue sloping to C, which is about one nail above the bottom of your paper; the curve, B C, is parallel to, or even with the curve, A F E. The head-piece, Fig. 13, is cut from a paper, which when folded is three nails long and two broad; from G to H, the doubled part, is one nail, from G to L, two nails and a quarter; cut a slightly curved line from L to K, the point K, being half a nail from the corner, next cut quite straight to J, being three-quarters of a nail above the angle or corner, sweep gradually from J to H. Fig. 14 represents half the crown; D is the doubled part, and is four nails long from M to N; the part from N to O is four and a half nails, the rest from O to M, is cut like a quarter of a circle. Fig. 15 is the part that supports or holds up the crown behind, the doubled part, U P, is two nails and a half long, from U to T is two nails and a quarter, curve it gently about half a nail; from the corner to T is half a nail; from T to S is one nail and a half, S being half a nail from the side of the square; the top of R, the next vandyke is two nails in a straight line from the bottom. These vandykes are about one nail deep.

The Plate shows sufficiently clearly how this bonnet is made up, to dispense with any further description, except to say that the crown, Fig. 14, is evenly gathered into the head-piece, Fig. 13, and the back-piece, Fig. 15. The curtain is put on, strings and a small bow may be added behind.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD THREE YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 16, 17, 18, 19.

This bonnet is very generally worn; the one represented in the Plate is for a little girl about three years old, though older and younger children would find it both suitable and comfortable; it is made of cloth, print, or nankeen, lined, and with runners in every part. It is in three pieces; to cut out the poke, Fig. 19, take a piece of paper, which, when folded in two, is four nails long and two nails and a quarter broad. D is the doubled part; from A to B is three nails, it is slightly curved; A being about one quarter of a nail from the top and half a nail from the side, next cut in nearly a straight line to C, and continue the curving to E, which is half a nail from the corner; from B to E, in a straight line, is two nails and a quarter; cut in a straight direction from E to F, the latter being one quarter of a nail above the corner; from A to F is one nail and three-quarters.

The head-piece, Fig. 17, when doubled (D being the folded part), is two nails and a half long, and two nails at the deepest part, which is to go in the front, sloped off to one nail and a half for the back. The crown is merely a horse-shoe; Fig. 18 is two nails and a half long, one nail and three-quarters at the top, and sloped off one quarter of a nail on each side, so as to make it only one nail and a quarter at the bottom.

In making up, the runners may be put in simply as in the Plate, or arranged in a pattern, or the bonnet may be quilted, but there must be two or three runners round the edge, and inner part of the poke, at the top and bottom of the head-piece, and all round the horse-shoe.

Put on a full curtain of one nail and a half deep.

BONNET FOR A CHILD FOUR YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 20, 21, 22.

This is a neat little bonnet with a stiff front, and is cut out as follows:—

For the pattern of the front, Fig. 20, let your paper, when folded in two, be three nails and a half long, by three nails broad, it may be rounded or left square at the ends, according to fancy, D being the doubled part; this front or poke is made of stiff pasteboard.

The crown, Fig. 22, is seven nails long at the doubled part, D, and six nails long at the bottom, A B, cut in a straight line, A F, for two nails, and again straight, F E, for three nails, then round it gradually up to C.

Before making up, cut out two pieces of calico, print, silk, or other material, the size of the poke, Fig. 21, then run them neatly together at the edge, and up the ends, and slip the pasteboard in; hem the bottom of the crown, Fig. 22, A B, and up the ends, A F, for the curtain. Hem from F to E, and make a runner about half a nail within the edge up to C, through which a bobbin must be passed, and drawn up to the width of the poke; it must be sewed strongly to the outside of the front, letting the little frill lie over it, as in the Plate, forming a sort of trimming; the lining of the poke must be only turned in, and slightly tacked down, so that the pasteboard may be easily taken out when the bonnet is washed. A runner is made across the back of the crown, about two nails above F E G, through which tapes are passed: the ends of the lower ones are sewed a little way along the poke, and when the bonnet is fitted to the head, these runners are drawn to the proper size. Put on hemmed strings of the same material.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD, THREE, FOUR, OR FIVE YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 23, 24, 25, 26.

This is a school child’s common bonnet, it may be made of print, gingham, or nankeen, and is in three parts. The head-piece, Fig. 24, when folded in two, is seven nails long, and three nails wide at the doubled and widest part, D, sloped off to one nail and a half at the bottom. The poke, Fig. 26, when doubled, is two nails and a half broad, by three nails and a half long, and a little rounded from A to B. Fig. 25 is the horse-shoe, two nails long, and two nails broad at the top, sloped off to one nail and three-quarters at the bottom.

In making up, the front is wadded or quilted, with a cotton runner at the outer edge, and two or three at the inner edge, to give it firmness; a runner is also put in round the horse-shoe. The front of the crown is gathered evenly to the poke, the horse-shoe set in, and a curtain set on behind.

When worn, the front of the bonnet is turned up, as in the Plate.

ANOTHER SOFT BONNET FOR A YOUNG CHILD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 27, 28, 29.

This is also a school child’s bonnet, and may be made of any soft or washing material.

Fig. 29 represents the poke, which, when doubled at D, is three nails and a half long, by three nails wide. The crown, Fig. 28, is six nails wide at the bottom, and seven nails at its longest part, rounded off on each side; three runners are made at the bottom of it, about a nail apart.

The poke is quilted, wadded, or run with cotton, and the crown sewed to it, rather fuller in the centre in front, than at the sides; the runners are drawn up, and tied at the proper size, and upon the lower one a curtain, one nail and a half or two nails deep, is set, and extends a little on each side upon the ends of the front or brim.

HATS AND CAPS.

PLATE 19.

Hats and caps for young boys should be made of soft materials, similar to bonnets for little girls; as they become older, their hats must of course be stronger and stiffer; some of both sorts will here be described, as well as travelling and other caps for grown-up persons.

PORRINGER CLOTH CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 30.

This is an extremely simple cap for young boys; it is made of cloth or merino, and consists of three pieces. The band, which is merely a piece of cloth half a nail deep, and sufficiently long to go round the child’s head, say, eight nails and a half, or nine nails long; the head-piece, which is also about nine nails long, before being joined up, and one nail and a half deep, is made with runners in an upright direction or across the cloth at regular distances, which give a degree of firmness to the cap; the round patch or crown is about one nail and a half across, with a runner made round the edge of it. When made up, it should be lined with demet or flannel and soft calico.

SOFT HAT FOR A YOUNG CHILD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 31, 32.

This little hat looks very pretty made of glazed cambric muslin or of calico, either white or coloured; if wanted for winter wear, it may be made of merino, cloth, or kerseymere, plain or braided.

For the brim, Fig. 32, cut a circle five nails across, with a hole in the centre of it two nails across, for the head, a little may be sloped off from the back, or not, according to pleasure; the crown is one nail and a quarter deep, and nine nails long before it is joined up, and the circle or patch is made to fit exactly. When the hat is made of glazed calico, it is lined with the same, and runners of cotton put in, either simply or in a pattern. A strap or ribbon is attached on each side, from about half way up the crown to about half the breadth of the brim, to keep it up and in its place. Strings are sewed at the inside.

SOFT CAP FOR A YOUNG BOY.

PLATE 19. FIG. 33.

This cap is made of glazed calico, white or coloured, or of any other soft light material, with runners in it; the brim is cut in the shape of Fig. 39, it is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a half broad at the deepest part, sloped off as in the Plate; the crown is one nail and a quarter deep, and from eight to nine nails long before being sewed up; the circle of course is made to fit it.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 34.

This is only a variety of the preceding cap; the brim is cut like Fig. 35, and is four nails long, and one nail deep, at the broadest part in front, sloped off at the ends; the Plate shews the way in which the runners are put in.

CAP FOR AN INFANT BOY.

PLATE 19. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39.

This is a remarkably pretty cap for an infant, after he has left off his hood; it is made of white or coloured satin, kerseymere, or merino.

The brim, Fig. 39, is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a half deep, and sloped as in the Plate, the head-piece is a full nail deep when folded in small plaits, and eight nails and three-quarters long before it is sewed up; the little flap or piece behind, Fig. 38, is about one nail deep; the longest part of it, or that to be turned up, is two nails and three-quarters long; that fastened to the hat is one nail and three-quarters; it is sloped at each end. The square or top of the hat, is two nails and a half every way; four other pieces must be cut one nail deep, and two nails and three-quarters wide at the top, sloped at each side down to two nails at the bottom.

In making up, take a piece of buckram of the size of the head-piece, lay it upon a demet or thin wadding, and flute the kerseymere upon it, putting a fine silk cord, or a piece of coarse stay or netting silk between the flutes.

The crown must next be prepared; ornament the square according to fancy, working the pattern in spots, either in braid, or in stay or netting silk; line this also with buckram, demet, and silk, to each side of the square, sew the widest side of each of the four pieces above described, these pieces having previously been lined, as before mentioned, sew the corners of the four firmly together, inlaying a piping; the head-piece is then put on, next set on the back-piece, Fig. 38, this is lined with silk or satin, in the following manner:—After the buckram is put in, the lining is sewed to it, and not being sloped at the narrow end of the kerseymere, it allows of being fulled or plaited at the part nearest the hat. The brim is finished in the same manner, the satin lining being plain at the edge, and gathered to the head-piece; it has also demet and buckram within the lining, and is worked in a similar manner to the square, upon the front or turned up part, which is of kerseymere. Put a silk, calico, or muslin lining into the head, and a silk tassel at the left corner of the square; a satin rosette in front, and strings complete the cap.

BOY’S CAP OF FIVE OR SIX YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 40, 41, 42, 43.

This cap is made of cloth or Holland; the crown, Fig. 41, is fourteen nails long, and three nails deep; the band, Fig. 42, is eight nails long, and half a nail broad; the brim or edge, Fig. 43, is eleven nails long, and one nail deep.

In making up, the crown, Fig. 41, is wadded and lined, it is then gathered evenly into the band on one side, and into the small circular patch or button on the other; the band, Fig. 42, is lined with flannel as well as calico; the brim, which is wadded and lined, has a piece of buckram put within the lining, it is sewed on so as to turn up and set rather round. A tassel or bow of ribbon may or may not be added at the top, according to pleasure.

CAP FOR A BOY SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 44, 45, 46, 47.

This looks neat made of Holland, with a piping of dark blue, green, or the same colour.

The top of the crown is in eight pieces, cut out of a circle, five nails across; this will make each division two nails and a half long, and two nails at the broadest part, sloped to a point, and the shape of Fig. 46. The side of the crown is in four pieces, Fig. 47; to cut these, make another circle the same size as the top, and in the centre of it cut a smaller one, two nails across, then divide the circle into four parts. The band is about one nail broad, when made up, and nine nails long, before it is joined at the ends.

In making up, sew the eight pieces together, laying a coloured piping between them, and putting a button at the top; the four sides, Fig. 47, being previously lined with buckram, demet, and glazed calico, are then each sewed to the circle thus formed, one of the sides fitting to two of the smaller pieces at the top; they must be sewed on the wrong side very firmly, and turned down, so that the stitches are not seen on the outside, the ends of these four pieces being piped, are then sewed together. The cap is now ready for the band, which, after being wadded, is stitched on, and the whole is finished.

CAP FOR A BOY, SIX OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 48, 49, 50.

This is a simple cap and easily made; it consists merely of two pieces.

The crown is a circle of eight nails across, lined and wadded, which is equally gathered all round, and set into a band, which is one nail and a half deep, and nine or ten nails long before it is joined up, Fig. 50: this band is also wadded, and a bow of ribbon may be put on one side.

CAP FOR AN OLDER BOY.

PLATE 19. FIG. 53, 54, 55, 56.

This is a remarkably neat cap, and may be worn by either a boy or a man; it is generally made of cloth.