Chapter VI: Women’s Shifts (6)

This cap is in two pieces. For the pattern of the head-piece, let your paper be five nails and a half long, and three nails and a quarter wide. A B is the front of the cap. From B to D is one nail and three-quarters, and is the top or doubled part of it. Curve from D to E, the point, E, being three nails and a half from the top. F is three-quarters of a nail from the side and half a nail from the bottom. Cut in a straight line from E to F, and curve from F to A.

For the crown, cut a circle of six nails across.

In making up, join the head-piece behind, and hem it all round with a narrow hem, so as only to admit a bobbin, which draws it to the proper size. The front is quite plain for one nail and a half above the ear, on each side, and then drawn equally in the middle. The crown is gathered regularly all round, and set in. The single border, about one nail broad, is of the same material as the cap. A narrow hem is made at the edge, and it is set on rather scantily. White ribbon strings are sewed on at the ears.

CAP FOR AN ELDERLY MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

PLATE 15. FIG. 16, 17, 18.

This cap is also in two pieces. The paper pattern should be six nails and a quarter long and two nails wide. Slope from A to B, B being three-quarters of a nail from the corner. Slope again from B to C, cutting off half a nail.

For the crown, D, which is the doubled part, is five nails and a half long. E, or the bottom of the cap, is three nails wide. Round off the corner at the top, F.

The front border of this cap is in one with the head-piece. The first thing to be done in making it up, is to join a piece of the same material, six nails long, and double the width of the border, say one nail and a half, to the corner or ear of the cap. This is neatly hemmed on both sides, together with the front edge of the head-piece, which is to form the border. A frill the same breadth is sewed to each end of the head-piece, and is joined to the long chin-pieces at one end, and at the other end to the lower part of the crown, which is to be the border behind. A narrow string-case is made in front, one nail and a half from the edge, and a bobbin run in along the front to the ends of the chin-piece. A similar string-case is also made at the lower part of the crown, and two bobbins run in, fastened at one end, and brought out at the opposite one, so that when drawn up they make the cap set to the head. The crown is set in equally full along the head-piece, the straight part being behind.

A BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 19, 20.

This cap is in one piece. Let your paper be four nails wide by three nails and a half long. The front, A B, is a little hollowed, say a quarter of a nail. D is the doubled part. E is two nails and a half from the top, and a quarter of a nail from the side. Slope from F to E, and from E to C, which is one nail and a half from the side, and a quarter of a nail from the bottom. Curve a little to B.

In making up, hem it in the front, and make three or four runners to admit a coloured ribbon, the number and breadth of these depending on fancy. They must be allowed for in cutting out, as the pattern here given is not measured for any at all. Join it from E to C, either plainly or with a piece of insertion-lace, and at the back, C B, make another string-case. The upper part, from F to E, is gathered and drawn together, and a bow put on to conceal the gathering.

A BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 21, 22.

The pattern of this cap is a square of three nails and a half. D is the doubled part at the back. It is slightly hollowed, as in the Plate.

In making up, hem the front, A F, and the back, F E; join it up neatly from A to B, either with a piece of insertion-lace, with a satin rouleau, or with a ribbon, and gather the rest, B C, up to the point, B, where a bow of ribbon finishes it. Sometimes, as in the Plate, the border is not carried on in the front, but, leaving about one nail from the top of the cap, is earned back again to the ear, forming a second frilling.

HELMET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 23, 24.

This is a remarkably pretty little morning or bonnet cap, and is generally made of tulle or lisse, as the shape is not so suitable to a washing material. It is in three parts, the two sides and a piece let in between them.

To cut the pattern of the sides, Fig. 23, let your paper be four nails long by two nails and three-quarters broad. A B is the front, which is a little sloped.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From B to C | 2¼ |
| From C to the bottom | ⅝ |
| From E to the bottom | 2½ |
| From F to the top | 1 |
| From G to the corner | ¾ |
+----------------------+--------+

Curve from B to C. Slope upwards from C to E, and round from F to G.

The piece let in between these two sides is about three-quarters of a yard long, two nails broad in the front, and one nail and a quarter behind, gradually sloped.

In making up, the long narrow strip is gathered on both sides and sewed to the other pieces, Fig. 23, at A, G, F, E, C, equally full all the way. The stitches are concealed by a small satin rouleau laid on. The front and back are then wired and bound with ribbon. The border and any simple trimming complete it.

BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 25, 26.

To cut the pattern of half this neat and simple bonnet cap, let your paper be six nails long and four nails broad. A B is the front. Curve from B, past C to E, C being one nail and three-quarters from the bottom and half a nail from the side, and E being two nails and a half from the top. D is the part where the net is to be doubled.

In making up, plait it behind in the centre, or rather large folds, seven on each side of the middle, and wrapping the folds over each other, so as to keep them all quite behind. Ribbon is laid on in two or three rows in front, either simply upon the cap, or covered with net. Bind it behind, and put on a border and some light trimming.

HANDKERCHIEF BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 27, 28.

This cap is formed of a half-handkerchief, cut from a square of six nails and a half. D is the doubled part. The front is from A to B. Shape it a little, beginning about three nails from the top, to make it set better to the face. The extreme point, C, is rounded off.

In making up, hem it all round, and run in a tape or ribbon behind.

BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 29, 30.

The pattern of half this cap is cut from a paper five nails long by four nails broad. A B is the front, D the doubled part of the net. Slope from B to C, cutting off one nail and a half. Allow for runners, according to your taste.

In making up, hem the front and back, run the string-case, join it up the back from C to F, and hem the rest from F to the top. Run a ribbon in this hem, which draws it up into a crown, and ties with a bow behind at F. This cap looks very like Fig. 20, but the chief advantage of it is, that it can be very easily ironed, as, when the ribbon is drawn out of the crown, it is a flat piece.

BONNET CAP FOR A CHILD.

PLATE 15. FIG. 31, 32.

This is an oblong, six nails long by four nails wide. Hem it all round. A E is the front. A ribbon is run through the hems, both in front and at the back, B C, which draws up the cap as much as is necessary to make it fit.

A CAPETTE.

PLATE 15. FIG. 33.

A capette is a sort of half-cap worn by young ladies, as a preservation from cold; it is also useful as a pretty kind of evening head dress; they are not expensive and are easily made.

Take a piece of silk or satin ribbon, the proper length for the front of a cap, and about two-thirds of a nail broad, along each edge hem in a wire ribbon so as to reduce the width to half a nail, putting three ribs or stays of wire across, to keep the ribbon its full breadth; one should be in the middle, and one at each end: then take another piece of wire ribbon, which is to go at the back of the head, and which is covered with ribbon similar to the front; the length of this must be regulated by the size of the wearer’s head, and it should be very accurately fitted, as all the comfort, and much of the neat appearance of the capette depends upon it setting well and closely to the shape of the head; this back-piece should be sewed very firmly to the front, a little above the ears. A border of net, tulle, or blonde is then plaited on to the front, and a gauze or satin ribbon folded, and laid upon the edge of it, so as to cover the stitches, and the foundation; this ribbon is long enough to form strings. On the back-strap is also laid a similar piece of ribbon, and sometimes a small bow is put in the centre of it. The front is trimmed according to fancy, the most simple mode generally looking the best.

Some persons wear capettes under their bonnets, and then they are usually made without wire, and merely bound with ribbon.

LAPPETS.

PLATE 15. FIG. 34.

Lappets are merely a double border of net, tulle, or blonde, three nails on each side, leaving a space in the middle; sometimes they are plaited all round, or made with a plain piece of blonde over the forehead. The edge is bound with ribbon, the ends of which form the strings.

WIDOW’S CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 35, 36, 37.

A widow’s cap is a very difficult thing to make well, and looks particularly slovenly when ill put together; it is, therefore, often the best economy to buy one ready-made, as there are persons who do little or nothing else; however, as there may be some cases in which this plan is not advisable, a pattern is given of a full sized one, and a few words on the manner of making it up.

These caps should be of book-muslin (not of the thinnest kind) or of white crape.

In the Plate, half of the crown, Fig. 35, and half of the head-piece, Fig. 36, are represented. To cut out the former, let your paper be seven nails and a half long, and three nails and a half wide; from the side to A is two nails and three-quarters, from the bottom to B is three nails and three-quarters, and from the corner to C, two nails and a half. The doubled part of the muslin is to be laid upon D.

For the head-piece, Fig. 36, your paper must be three nails and three-quarters long, by one nail and a quarter broad. From A to the corner is three-quarters of a nail, slope gradually to B. D is the doubled part.

In making up, after setting the crown into the head-piece, with the fulness chiefly in the front, and hemming it behind and all round the face, sew on the borders: these are made of the same muslin, about a quarter of a nail deep, they are double in front, and put on very full: after the muslin is hemmed, a short round stick is run through, which gives a crimped appearance, and makes the hem hollow; to keep the border in its place, a fine tape is passed through each hem, which is tied up to the proper size; a sort of binder is then laid upon the head-piece and meets behind; it is thus made:—take a piece of muslin, one nail and a half broad and two yards long, make a hem at each edge and a tuck in the middle, the same width as the hem of the borders, pass the stick through all these hems, and run in a fine tape or bobbin, to draw it up to the proper size. A piece is then prepared to fasten under the chin which is three-quarters of a yard long, and broad enough to admit of a hem, one quarter of a nail deep at each edge, no plain muslin being left between; the stick is passed through these hems, and a tape run in. When worn, the ends are pinned on each side at the ears of the cap.

VELVET OR WADDED SILK CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 38.

This cap is very useful to wear under a bonnet, especially in travelling. It is four nails long in the front, when folded in two, and three nails and a half wide, it is sloped behind one nail, and rounded about half a nail at the top.

In making up, a lining is put into it, and a piece of wadding laid between it and the cap: they are neatly run together down the front and behind: a string-case is made at the back, for about half a nail on each side of the middle, and a ribbon run in to draw it up to the proper size. It is neatly joined for one nail and a half, and the rest is gathered up, the stitches being concealed by a large button, covered with the same silk.

SILK CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 39.

These are often worn by elderly or invalid ladies, under their caps and bonnets. Fig. 39 is an approved shape, to wear under a cap; it is made of silk that approaches the nearest in colour to the shade of the hair. It is in two pieces, the one a strip ten nails long, three nails deep, and sloped off at the ends to two nails; and the other a round cushion, one nail and a half across, and half a nail high: the strip is joined up at the ends, which part fits to the front of the head, hemmed all round, and strings run in to draw it up to the proper size. The cushion is made and filled with light sheep’s wool, and the strip or head-piece gathered regularly to it. The use of it is to make the crown of the cap stand up.

PINAFORES, SACCARINES, &c.

PLATE 16.

Pinafores and saccarines are worn chiefly by children of both sexes, and of every age, also by house-maids, while making beds, or persons engaged in particularly dusty or dirty employments. For children’s pinafores during their earliest years, look in Plate 3, where two or three patterns are entered, among other articles of baby linen, and where scales are affixed for children of various ages. The following are the other shapes most in use.

CHILD’S SURTOUT PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 1.

This is a neat and simple pinafore for a young child, and is made of diaper, Holland or print.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 5 Fig 7 Fig 4

Fig 6 Fig 10

Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 14

Fig 11 Fig 13

Fig 12 Fig 15 Fig 16]

SCALE.

+-------------------------------+----------+----------+
| ———————— | Child of | Child of |
| | 1 yr. | 3 yrs. |
+-------------------------------+----------+----------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
| Width of cloth | 12 | 14 |
| Length of cloth | 6 | 8 |
| Depth of shoulder | 1 | 1¼ |
| Slope of shoulder | ½ | ½ |
| Length of arm-hole | 2½ | 2½ |
| Depth of lappet or shoulder | 1 | 1¼ |
| Length of lappet or shoulder | 8 | 10 |
| Depth of neck-band when open | ¾ | 1 |
| Length of neck-band when open | 5 | 6 |
| Depth of band round the waist | 1 | 1 |
+-------------------------------+----------+----------+

The pinafore is folded in half, and again in two, to find the situation of the arm-holes at the quarters: after sloping the shoulders, hollow out the neck about a quarter of a nail; the shoulders must then be sewed up, and the pinafore set into the neck-band, which is first doubled exactly in half; this neck-band buttons behind. The sleeve lappets are gathered near the edge, and neatly set on to the arm-hole before it is hemmed, so that when the hem is turned down, no stitches are seen on the right side; the lappet is then fulled at the edge a second time, which being also firmly sewed down, makes it lie flat upon the hem. The other edge of the lappet is hemmed, and silk washing braid put on, to hide the stitches. The lappet should be set on to within half a nail of the bottom of the slit of the arm-hole on each side; little gussets may be put in at the bottom of the slit, to make it stronger. A band is sewed on in front, of the proper length to button behind, its proper situation is in the centre in front, and a little below the level of the bottom of the arm-hole. Boys often wear a band of patent leather instead, with a buckle. This pinafore is quite open behind, being only fastened by the neck-button and the band.

A CHILD’S SMOCK-FROCK, OR CLOSE PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 2, 3.

If for gentlemen’s children, they are made of Holland, either black or brown, or diaper, but for the lower classes, of blue check, dark blue linen, brown and black linen, or coloured prints. These close pinafores are very suitable for children playing in a garden, or for going to school in, and preserve clean frocks, or hide soiled ones effectually. It would be well if at most large charity schools, children attended with these kind of pinafores, which at once give them a neat respectable appearance.

The number of breadths is not mentioned in the scale, as the widths of the material differ so much; but it is advisable, if possible, to obtain it of such a width as will agree with the width of the pinafore, to admit of their being but one, one and a half, or exactly two breadths in it. The sleeves, collar, bands, and gussets, may be made to cut to little or no waste, by fitting them well, one with another, especially if the band be made in two pieces, instead of one length. The pinafore is easily made up; after putting in the neck gussets, the collar is set on, the skirt being regularly fulled into it. The sleeves, &c., are all put on as in a shirt, excepting that the wristbands are sewed up so as to form cuffs.

Metal or bone buttons are those in general use to fasten them. The two nails by one and a half that are over (see K), serve for covering buttons, or make a small gusset for the slit behind, and also for the bottom of the sleeves, if the wristband is made open.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | First | Second | Third |
| | size. | size. | size. |
+-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
| Width of skirt when sewed up | 9 | 10 | 12 |
| Length of skirt | 9 | 11 | 13 |
| Length of shoulder | 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ |
| Slope of shoulder to | ¼ | ⅓ | ½ |
| Length of arm-hole | 2½ | 3 | 3½ |
| Size of neck-gusset | 1 | 1½ | 1¾ |
| Size of sleeve-gusset | 2 | 2¼ | 2½ |
| Length of collar | 6 | 6½ | 7 |
| Depth of collar before doubled | 1 | 2 | 2 |
| Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
| Length of sleeve down the selvage | 4½ | 5¼ | 6 |
| Width of sleeve | 4 | 5½ | 6½ |
| Depth of wristband | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ |
| Length of wristband down selvage | 3 | 3½ | 3¾ |
| Depth of band | 1 | 1½ | 1½ |
| Length of band down selvage | 11 | 12 | 13 |
+-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+

LARGE SIZED PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 4.

To prevent waste, it would be advisable to cut out two at once, as the collars, &c., will cut for both pinafores in one width. Cut two breadths for each pinafore, and from one breadth of each, cut the sleeves. For the collars, &c., cut off a piece of Holland, seven nails long, and divide it according to the Figure in the Plate, first taking off the two collars, C C, the whole length selvage-wise, and each two nails wide; next, the four wristbands, W W, of which two cut in the length, of three and a half nails long, and three nails wide; afterwards the four gussets, G G, two and a half nails square, leaving a strip, two nails long, and five nails wide, out of which cut the two neck-gussets, each two nails square, to be afterwards cut crosswise in half; also little gussets for the slit behind, and the sleeves, if the wristbands are made open.

These pinafores are made up like those before mentioned.

PINAFORES FOR BOYS, OF STRONG BLACK GLAZED CALICO, OR HOLLAND, AT 1s. PER YARD.

PLATE 16. FIG. 2, 3,

Represents the width of the cloth on which the pieces composing the pinafore of the smallest size are marked.

Cut two breadths and divide one in half, from the half cut all the et cetera according to the figure.

S S are the two sleeves, five and a half nails square.
C is the collar, two nails by six long.
W W are the two wristbands, two nails by three long.
G G are the two sleeve-gussets, two nails square.
N N are the two neck-gussets, one nail square.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+
| | Boy of | Boy of |
| ———————— | 8 years. | 10 years. |
+-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |
| Width of material | 15 | 15 |
| Quantity for one | 1 10 | 2 0 |
| Number of breadths in each pinafore | 2 bdths.| 2 bdths. |
| Length of breadths | 13 | 15 |
| Length of sleeve down selvage | 5½ | 7 |
| Width of sleeve | 5½ | 6 |
| Length of wristband down selvage | 3 | 3½ |
| Width of wristband | 2 | 2 |
| Neck-gusset cut in half | 1 | 1½ |
| Sleeve-gusset | 2 | 3 |
| Length of collar | 6 | 7 |
| Width of collar | 2 | 2 |
+-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+

CHILDREN’S SACCARINES.

PLATE 16. FIG. 7.

These are exceedingly pretty, if finished neatly with braid or silk, and are generally made of Holland, either brown, or the light grey called French Holland. They answer well as morning dresses, in which children can run about, and work in the garden, with less danger of tearing or dirtying their under clothes, than with frocks of lighter materials.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+
| | Child from | Child from |
| ———————— | 2 to 4 yrs. | 4 to 6 yrs. |
+--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |
| Quantity for one | 1 14 | 2 2½ |
| Width of material | 12 | 14 |
| Number of breadths | 2 bdths. | 2 bdths. |
| Length of skirt | 9 | 11 |
| Length of shoulder | 1½ | 1½ |
| Slope of shoulder | ½ | ½ |
| Length of arm-hole | 2¾ | 3 |
| Length of slit behind | 4 | 4½ |
| Length of sleeve down the selvage | 6 | 6½ |
| Width of sleeve | 6 | 6 |
| Length of collar down the selvage | 6 | 6 |
| Width of collar | 1 | 1 |
| Length of shoulder-strap | 1½ | 1¾ |
| Width of shoulder-strap | ½ | ¾ |
| Sleeve-gussets | 2 | 3 |
| Neck-gussets | ¾ | ¾ |
| Length of wristband down the selvage | 2½ | 3 |
| Width of wristband | 1 | 1½ |
| Length of band down the selvage | 11 | 12 |
| Depth of band | 1 | 1 |
+--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+

In making up these saccarines, the work must be very good and strong. The hem at the bottom should be about one nail and a half deep. The shoulder-straps and neck-gussets being put on, the slit hemmed, and everything ready for biassing the pinafore, prepare some strong netting silk of a colour that will wash well—black, purple, or white are the best—and then bias the front and back in four rows below the collar. Small spots worked on the gathers, between the rows of biassing, in the same coloured silk, have a finished and neat effect. The sleeve is also biassed at about a quarter of a nail below the shoulder, and at the wrist. For a description of biassing, see Part I., Chapter I. Some persons put coloured worsted braid over the biassing, and, if chosen of a colour that washes well, and sewed on with crewel, it looks pretty, and stands washing better than most kinds of netting silk. Little pockets of Holland should be put in front, being particularly useful to children for their handkerchiefs, &c. The wristbands, collar, and band should have some little ornamental work, either in silk or braid, to correspond with the rest.

FIG. 5

Represents the width of the Holland on which the pieces are marked for the largest saccarine, supposing two of them cut out together, which is by far the most economical way.

After cutting out the skirts, mark off and cut in one piece the two breadths for the two pairs of sleeves, and, before dividing the breadths, cut selvage-wise the whole length a strip two nails wide, which will be twelve long, and form one of the bands. The two sleeves exactly fit in the remainder of the width. Cut next another breadth of the cloth of six nails long, and from it take, according to the Plate:—

Two collars, C C, the whole length, and one nail wide each.
Four wristbands, W W, two in the length, and one nail wide each.
Four gussets, G G, three nails square, two in the length.
Two half bands, B B, to be sewed together to make one, each
one nail wide, and the whole length. (The other band is
already cut off.)
Two neck-gussets, N N, of two nails square, to be afterwards
cut crosswise to form the pair.
Four shoulder-straps, S S S S, of half a nail wide and one
nail and three-quarters long, and one piece over, which will
form a slit-gusset.

FIG. 6

Represents the smaller saccarine on cloth of the proper width. In this case, also, it is necessary to cut two at once, to prevent waste.

After cutting the two skirts and two pairs of sleeves, of which two sleeves exactly fit in the width, cut off a breadth six nails down the selvage, and divide it as follows, according to the Plate:—

Two collars, C C, one nail wide each, and the whole depth.
Four half bands, B B B B, one nail wide each, of the whole
length of two nails and a half, leaving one nail over.
Four sleeve-gussets, G G G G, of two nails square,
underneath which lie
Four shoulder-straps, S S, of three-quarters of a nail wide
and one nail and a half long, and two other gussets.
A strip of Holland, half a nail by three nails, remains to
bind round the slit behind, which makes it firm and durable.

HOUSEMAID’S PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 8.

House-maids have, or ought to have, a calico pinafore to put on when making beds, as, after cleaning grates and emptying slops, their clothes should not come in contact with clean bed-linen and counterpanes, lest they should soil them.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------+-------------+
| | Yds. nls. |
| Quantity for one | 3 5½ |
| Number of breadths | 2 bdths. |
| Width of calico | 1 0 |
| Length of pinafore | 1¼ 0 |
| Length of shoulder | 2½ |
| Shoulder sloped to | ½ |
| Length of arm-hole | 5½ |
| Length of sleeve down selvage | 9½ |
| Width of sleeve | 9 |
| Size of sleeve-gusset | 4 |
+-------------------------------+--------------+

The sleeves should be left large and loose, so as to admit of the pinafore being easily put on and off, over the gown. It is more economical to cut out two pinafores than one, as otherwise two gussets are wasted.

SCHOOL GIRL’S PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 9.

Pinafores for the national and other schools are generally made of strong blue linen check, with one or two pockets at the front and sides, in which their knitting and needle-work are put. These pinafores, after buttoning up the pockets, are carefully taken off when school hours are over, folded, and locked up at the school-house. In front, near the top of the pinafore, is sewed a square patch of the linen, on which is marked, in red or other tape, the number of the child to whom it belongs. The child is generally called by her companions by the number of the pinafore, instead of being addressed by her name, which is, in many ways, a great saving of memory, time, and trouble.

SCALE.

+------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+
| |Girl from|Girl from|Girl from |Girl from |
| ———————— | 6 to 8 | 8 to 10 | 10 to 13 | 13 to 18 |
| | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. |
+------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+
| | Nails. | Nails.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.|
|Width of material | 12 | 14 | 1 0 | 1 0 |
|Length of pinafore| 10 | 12 | 14 | 1 0 |
|Piece for shoulder| 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Sloped to | ½ | ½ | ¾ | 1 |
|Slit for arm-hole | 2¾ | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Hollowed in front | ¼ | ¼ | ½ | ½ |
|Length of pocket | 3¾ | 3¾ | 4 | 4 |
|Width of pocket | 4 | 4 | 4½ | 4½ |
+------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+

A CHILD’S PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 10.

This is made of brown Holland, or any other neat material, and trimmed with braid or an edging, or simply piped, to give a sort of finish to it. Take two breadths of the proper length (say twelve nails), and sew them together up the seams, leaving two nails and a half from the top for the arm-holes. When thus sewed, fold the skirt in half the width, and hollow out the arm-holes, cutting into the cloth, from A to B, half a nail. The neck is also hollowed to about one nail, from C to D, leaving one nail and a quarter for the shoulders, which are not sewed up, but neatly hemmed and made to button together.

There is no slit behind, but the back is made exactly like the front, either with large plaits, as in the figure, biassed, or gathered. A band, sewed on in front, buttons round the waist. When the pinafore is taken off, the shoulders are merely unbuttoned, and it falls down, as seen on the right hand side of the figure. Lappets or frills may be added with advantage round the arm-holes, taking care to divide them at top, to allow of the shoulders separating.

A SURGEON’S DISSECTING PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 11.

These pinafores are worn by surgeons over the coat, and are made high up to the neck and down to the waist, to prevent anything soiling the dress while dissecting and performing operations. The pinafores are generally of black, but sometimes of grey Holland. They have two pockets, in which to put the instruments, cloths, &c. &c.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+------------+
| | Yds. nls. |
|Width of material | 1 0 |
|Number of breadths | 1½ bdth. |
|Length of pinafore | 1 6 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 10 |
|Width of sleeve, or two in the breadth | 8 |
|Length of collar down the selvage | 9 |
|Width of collar | 2¼ |
|Length of wristband down the selvage | 4 |
|Width of wristband | 1 |
|Length of shoulder-strap down the selvage | 4 |
|Width of the two together before being cut | 2 |
|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 |
|Length of arm-hole | 5½ |
|Size of square pocket | 5 |
|Distance from under the arm to the pocket-hole | 3½ |
|Slit width-way for the pocket-hole | 3 |
+-----------------------------------------------+------------+

The breadth and half are sewed together, the pinafore doubled as usual, and the slits for the arms cut; after which the shoulder-straps are sewed between, and not upon the parts forming the shoulder, taking care to put the wide end of the shoulder-straps (which are sloped as seen below), towards the neck. Put in the sleeves, and set the neck into the collar. Find the situation of the pocket-hole, letting the middle of it fall in a straight line, exactly under the arm. The slit is cut width-way, and a piece of narrow tape is sewed round it at the edge, and hemmed down. The pocket is _sewed_ on (but not _hemmed_) at the inside with small stitches, and, when done, well flattened with the finger and thumb.

The piece for the shoulder-straps is crossed, making the narrow end about one-third of a nail, as in Fig. 12.

A strong case is sewed round the pinafore inside, made of 2_d._ or 3_d._ tape. Two large oylet-holes are made at the sides, and a very long piece of tape is first drawn all round the string-case coming out behind, and secured in front. These strings cross behind, and are carried through the opposite string-case, as far as the oylet-holes, at which they are brought out. The pinafore is generally put on over the head. The strings draw round and tie in front.

Fig 1 Fig 3 Fig 5 Fig 7

Fig 2 Fig 4 Fig 6 Fig 8

Fig 9 Fig 10

Fig 13 Fig 11 Fig 12]

WAGGONER’S SMOCK-FROCK.

PLATE 16. FIG. 13, 14, 15, 16.

It is made of strong linen, similar to that used for sheeting, and the biassing upon it is worked with the strongest glazed thread or cotton that can be procured. This work must be firmly and regularly done, as the price of these frocks depends on the quantity and quality of work in them.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Width of the material | 1 0 |
|Length of the body, both breadths being cut in one piece| 2 14 |
|Length of each half collar down the selvage | 6 |
|Width of each half collar | 4 |
|Length of shoulder-binding | 3 |
|Width of shoulder-binding | 1¼ |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 10 |
|Width of sleeve | 8 |
|Length of wristband down the selvage | 5½ |
|Size of gusset | 1 |
|Length of slit behind and before | 1¼ |
|Length of worked part in front | 5 |
|Wrist biassed up to about | 1¾ |
+--------------------------------------------------------+---------+

The two breadths are cut in one piece, and hollowed out at the neck to the depth of one nail, making the hollowing, Fig. 13, from A to B, as abruptly as possible, so that from B to C is quite straight by a thread. After the body is gathered to the proper size, so as to correspond with the two half collars, set them on so that the divisions shall come behind and in front, at which places the frock itself is cut down one nail and a quarter deep.

The shoulders and wrists, as well as the front and back, are biassed with strong glazed thread, in various patterns, and stitched as in Fig. 16. The plain part, between the biassing and arm-hole, is worked in chain-stitch, as also the collar, in various patterns.

These frocks are to be met with at clothing warehouses, and cost from 9_s._ to 18_s._ each, the price depending upon the quantity and quality of work put on.

SHIRTS FOR THE LABOURING CLASSES.

PLATE 17.

Shirts for labouring men are generally made of the stout linen called shirting-linen, at from 9_d._ to 1_s._ per yard. Shirts for men of lighter occupations are sometimes of calico, with linen collars and wristbands. Blue checks, unbleached, and striped calicoes, or prints, are used for that purpose.

Linen for shirts should be chosen of exactly the proper width, according to the size wanted; and as it is an expensive article, especially when cut to waste, six Scales are drawn upon the Plate for six different sizes of shirts, by which the most economical plan for cutting the shirt is seen.

Each Scale is drawn upon the width of cloth suitable to the sized shirt. Scales are also affixed for cutting out a set of six of the same sized shirts, as, by a little management, and occasionally reducing or enlarging a sleeve a quarter of a nail, or making some such immaterial difference, the various parts of a set, take much less cloth by being cut together.

If shirts are made of linen, they should always be cut by a thread; but if they are of calico, they may be torn: still, however, the smaller parts, as gussets, straps, &c., should be cut, in preference to tearing, as they are apt to pull out of shape. In preparing a set of shirts, time is saved by cutting out all the pieces of the same size together, instead of cutting first a sleeve, then a wristband, &c. It also saves cloth to cut strips all in one length, and then sub-divide it: for instance, when binders and sleeves are cut in the breadth, as one is longer than the other, it is necessary to mark off the width of the sleeve, and then cut down the whole length of the set of sleeves, leaving the strip in one length, to be sub-divided afterwards. The bodies should be cut each in one piece, and not in two separate breadths. The neck-gussets are generally single, therefore, one gusset, cut crosswise in half, forms the pair.

Before cutting the bosom, slit, &c., of the body, observe that the shirt should be folded in two, so as to let the front breadth be one nail shorter than the back breadth. When thus folded, crease it by a thread, and, after leaving the proper distance for the shoulders, proceed to cut the slit for the neck, and down for the bosom. Next measure the length of opening for the flaps, and for the arm-holes, and put in pins as marks.

A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHIRTS.

There are nineteen useful parts to a shirt, which are cut out pretty nearly by the following rough proportions; but as the figures of men differ materially, no exact rule can be laid down.

1st The SKIRT or BODY, which is cut, with
the two breadths in one piece, and should be long enough
to reach from the shoulder to the knee of the wearer.
2nd and 3rd. The SLEEVES, which are generally about
half the length of the skirt when sewed up, and the
breadth the same.
4th The COLLAR, which is the same length as the
sleeve.
5th and 6th. The WRISTBANDS, each of which is half
the length of the collar.
7th and 8th. The BINDERS, the length of a sleeve
and a quarter.
9th and 10th. The SHOULDER-STRAPS, the same length
as the wristbands.
11th and 12th. Two SLEEVE-GUSSETS.
13th and 14th. Two NECK-GUSSETS.
15th and 16th. Two HIP, or SIDE-GUSSETS.
17th and 18th. Two WRIST-GUSSETS.
19th One BOSOM-GUSSET.

PLATE 17.

SCALE OF SHIRTS OF VARIOUS SIZES.

+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+
| | Fig. | Fig. | Fig. |
| | 1, 2. | 3, 4. | 5, 6. |
| ———————— +----------+----------+----------+
| |Child from|Child from|Child from|
| | 8 to 10 | 11 to 14 | 15 to 18 |
| | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. |
+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+
| |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |
|Quantity required for one | 2 8 | 2 11½ | 3 1 |
|Quantity required for six | 13 14 | 14 8 | 18 0 |
|Proper width of cloth | 9 | 12 | 13 |
|Whole length of skirt | 1 9 | 1 11 | 2 0 |
|Space to leave for shoulders| 2 | 2 | 2½ |
|The space for the neck | | | |
| will then be | 5 | 8 | 8 |
|Slit downwards for bosom | 3½ | 3¾ | 4 |
|Length of arm-holes | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Slit at the bottom for flaps| 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Width of sleeve | 6 | 7 | 8 |
|Length down the selvage | 4½ | 5 | 6 |
|Width of binders or linings | 1½ | 2 | 2½ |
|Length down the selvage | 6½ | 7 | 10 |
|Width of collar | 5 | 3 | 3 |
|Length down the selvage | 6 | 6½ | 7 |
|Width of wristband | 1½ | 2½ | 2 |
|Length down the selvage | 2½ | 3 | 3½ |
|Width of shoulder-strap | 1 | 1 | 1 |
|Length down the selvage | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Size of sleeve-gussets | 2½ | 2½ | 3 |
|Size of neck-gussets | 1½ | 1½ | 2 |
|Size of bosom-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ |
|Size of flap-gussets | ½ | ½ | 1 |
+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+
| | Fig. | Fig. | Fig. |
| | 7, 8. | 9, 10. | 11, 12. |
| ———————— +----------+----------+----------+
| | Man’s | Man’s | Man’s |
| | small | larger | largest |
| | size. | size. | size. |
+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.|
|Quantity required for one | 3 4 | 3 8 | 3 14 |
|Quantity required for six | 19 12 | 21 1 | 23 0 |
|Proper width of cloth | 13½ | 14 | 15 |
|Whole length of skirt | 2 2 | 2 4 | 2 5 |
|Space to leave for shoulders| 2½ | 2½ | 3 |
|The space for the neck | | | |
| will then be | 8½ | 9 | 9 |
|Slit downwards for bosom | 4½ | 5 | 5½ |
|Length of arm-holes | 5 | 5¼ | 5½ |
|Slit at the bottom for flaps| 5 | 5 | 5 |
|Width of sleeve | 7½ | 8 | 8 |
|Length down the selvage | 7 | 8 | 10 |
|Width of binders or linings | 3 | 3 | 3½ |
|Length down the selvage | 11 | 12 | 12 |
|Width of collar | 3 | 3 | 3½ |
|Length down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 |
|Width of wristband | 2½ | 2½ | 3 |
|Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 4 |
|Width of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 |
|Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 5 |
|Size of sleeve-gussets | 3 | 3 | 4 |
|Size of neck-gussets | 2 | 2 | 2½ |
|Size of bosom-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ |
|Size of flap-gussets | 1 | 1 | 1 |
+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+

PLATE 17. FIG. 2

Represents the best mode of cutting out six shirts of the same size as Fig. 1.

Cut off the bodies or skirts.

Cut off from the breadth the strip for the twelve sleeves, being in all three yards six nails in length, and six nails in width.

Cut from the remainder of the breadth the twelve linings, two in the breadth, six nails and a half long, and the twelve wristbands, two in the breadth, of two nails and a half long, thus using up all the strip.

Cut the other pieces as follows:—

Two collars in the breadth, C C, six nails long, three breadths. Nine shoulder-straps, S S, three nails long, one breadth. Three shoulder-straps and six neck-gussets, N N, three nails long, one breadth. Four sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails and a half long, three breadths. The collar is very wide, and intended to turn over.

PLATE 17. FIG. 4.

The most economical plan of cutting six shirts, the size of Fig. 3:— Two sleeves in the breadth, five nails long, six breadths. Six linings, B B, seven nails long, two breadths. Four collars, C C, six nails and a half long, one breadth. Two collars and twelve straps, S S, six nails and a half long, one breadth. Six sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails long, two breadths. Four wristbands (leaving two nails over), three nails long, three breadths.

The remainder, two nails wide, and nine nails long, to be cut up into six neck-gussets, N N, one nail and a half square, leaving a piece, half a nail wide and nine long, to form the remainder of the gussets.

PLATE 17. FIG. 6,

Is the most economical plan of cutting six shirts of the same size, as Fig. 5. Take off twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and six long, twelve lengths. From the long strip cut two binders, in width eight nails and a half, six lengths. And two wristbands in the width, W W, three nails and a quarter long, six lengths.

The whole strip is thus exactly used up. Three collars, C C, to be three nails wide and a piece over, seven nails long, two lengths. The piece left over of the breadth to be cut into Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four in the width, four nails long, three breadths. Also two neck-gussets, N N, two nails square. Four sleeve-gussets, G, three nails square, and one neck-gusset, N, in the width, three nails square, three breadths. Thirteen flap and bosom-gussets, one nail square, one breadth.

PLATE 17. FIG. 8,

Represents the best plan of cutting six shirts, similar in size to Fig. 7.

Cut twelve sleeves, S S, seven nails and a half wide, seven nails long, twelve lengths.

In the remainder of the breadth, two binders in the width, of Eleven nails long, six lengths. Twelve sleeve-gussets, G G, three nails square, six lengths.

After which, cut as follows:— Four collars, C C, three nails wide and eight nails long, leaving a strip one nail and a half wide for little gussets, one length. Two collars and six wristbands, W W, eight nails long, one length. Three wristbands, and six neck-gussets, N N, four nails long, two lengths. Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four nails long, one length.

A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS OF THE SAME SIZE AS FIG. 9.

PLATE 17. FIG. 10.

Measure off the whole length for sleeves, eight nails square, twelve lengths.

From the remainder of the breadth cut Two linings, B B, in the width, of twelve nails long, six lengths. Two collars, C C, in the width, of eight nails long, three lengths. The strip is thus exactly made up;— Cut six wristbands, W W, in the width, four nails long, two lengths. Four gussets, of three nails square and two nails over, three lengths. From the piece over, cut two shoulder-straps, four nails long, and a piece over. Six neck-gussets, two nails square in the breadth, one length. Ten shoulder-straps in the width, four nails long, one length. Fourteen gussets in the breadth, one nail square, one length.

A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS SIMILAR IN SIZE TO FIG. 11.

PLATE 17. FIG. 12.

Measure off the twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and ten long, twelve lengths. Two binders in the width, twelve nails long, six lengths. Two collars in the width, eight nails long, three lengths. Two wristbands in the width, four nails long, six lengths.

The strip is thus exactly used up, after which, Cut four sleeve-gussets in the width, three lengths. Six shoulder-straps, five nails long, two lengths. Six neck-gussets in the width, one length. Twelve flap-gussets in the width, two lengths.

EXPLANATION OF MAKING UP SHIRTS.

Double the long piece for the skirt in two, making the front breadth one nail shorter than the back breadth.

Measure the proper distance from the top for the arm-holes, and the proper distance from the bottom for flaps, and put in pins for marks.

The skirt is usually simply sewed up, but it is preferable, especially with gentlemen’s shirts, to make a hem the whole length of the skirt, on each side, and then sew up between the arm-holes and flaps, firmly, with thick even stitches.

Proceed next to stitch the collar and wristbands. Let the stitching be made about six threads from the edge, and carried all round both the wristbands and collar; taking care not to pass the stitches through both folds of them, at the opening or part, in which the fulness of the sleeve or shirt is to be gathered.

Next prepare the straps by turning them in, and drawing the threads; do the same with the neck and other gussets.

Now sew up the sleeves, putting in the large gussets, the little wrist-gussets and gathering them into the wristbands, to prepare them for putting into the shirts. Then put in the side-gussets, and hem the flaps and bottom of the shirt. These gussets are fixed by sewing them on at the wrong side of the shirt to within a quarter of an inch less than the square, and felling the other side nearly over. The neck gussets are next managed in the same manner, taking care to put the stitched part on the right side.

The shoulder-strap is then doubled in half, and slightly tacked on the middle of the shoulder in the inside; then place each side flat on the shirt, and stitch it in the lines that have been prepared for it.

The bosom is then stitched; and the button-holes made, or if, as in gentlemen’s shirts, a piece is let into the front, it must be arranged according to the taste of the wearer.

The lining is now neatly felled on, and the neck gathered, and set into the collar, after which the sleeves are gathered and put in. The bosom-bit may then be sewed in, and when the buttons are put on the whole is completed.

The shirt is marked about an inch below the left hip or gusset.

GENTLEMEN’S SHIRTS.

PLATE 18.

Gentlemen’s shirts are usually made of fine Irish linen or lawn, and sometimes of long cloth. Some gentlemen wear striped calico, but seldom, unless engaged in sporting, boating, or fishing. Gentlemen’s sons, up to ten or eleven years of age, or persons going into hot climates, wear strong calico, it being considered more healthful than linen, the latter is, however, the best wearing of the two, but more expensive. Care should be taken to procure the proper width, according to the size wanted; and the proper quantity, according to the number required. The Suffolk hemp is considered the best for shirting.