Chapter VI: Women’s Shifts (2)

+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Width of checked muslin | 1½ 0 |
|Width of crown to cap, four in the width of material, | 6 |
| or, | |
|Length of crown down the selvage | 6½ |
|Width of puffing or head-piece, twenty-four in width | |
| of material, or, | 1 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 14 |
|Width of bands to confine the puffing, 48 in the width,| ½ |
| or, | |
|Length of bands down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of strings, forty-eight in the breadth | ½ |
|Length of strings down the selvage | 7 |
|Quantity of material for one cap | 14 |
|Quantity of material for twenty-four | 4 3 |
|Length of bordering to each, three breadths of | 16 |
|Depth of bordering down the selvage | 1¼ |
+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+

Observe, that in the Plates the letter D always stands for the doubled part of the muslin.

In cutting out these caps, it is by far the most economical to cut out 24 at a time, as, if half that number is cut, half the width of the length of cloth from which the puffing is cut, is wasted, whereas the 24 exactly fit in.

The crown must be rounded off at the top, for which purpose, double it in half its width, and at 2 nails from the top corner each way, round, or slope off the piece from A to B (see Plate 9, Fig. 1).

The cap is made up as follows:—

Double the bands in two, and turn down the edges as if for sewing. Hem the crown-piece with a very narrow hem up each side, to the distance of half a nail, and sew it firmly to each end of one of the bands; after which, whip and stroke evenly the remaining part of the crown, and sew it to the rest of the band in the middle. To the other side of the band, full on the head-piece or puffing, which is afterwards confined on the other side by being whipped and sewed to the second band. The double border is sewed on in front, and a single one behind, where previously there has been a pretty deep hem made, to admit of strings to draw behind. These strings are sewed into the cap, each at the opposite end of the hem to that on which it comes out. The strings are hemmed at the end, being either pointed or rounded, according to taste. Some ladies prefer their being 1 nail wide and rounded at the end, with a narrow frill or edging sewed on to the distance of 3 or 4 nails round the ends.

A VERY NEAT NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 3, 4, 5, 6.

This, when made of checked muslin, with a border of corded muslin, has a very pretty appearance, and is particularly comfortable for a night-cap, as it sets close to the head.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 17

Fig 3 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 18

Fig 28 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 19

Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 24

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 25

Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 26]

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+
| | Yds. nls. |
|Best width of material | 18 |
|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 14 |
|Width of ditto | 4½ |
|Length of horse-shoe down the selvage | 3½ |
|Width of ditto | 2½ |
|Length of strings down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of ditto | ½ |
|Quantity of material for eight | 2 3 |
|Quantity of bordering, 3 breadths of muslin in width | 16 |
|Depth of ditto | 1¼ |
+-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+

The most economical number of caps of this pattern to cut at once, is eight, and should be done as follows, to prevent waste (see Fig. 3). Tear off two lengths of 14 nails, which, when torn each in four, will form the eight head-pieces. The horse-shoe crowns must be cut in two rows deep, four in each row, of 2½ nails wide, which will require 10 nails of the breadth, leaving a piece 8 nails wide and 7 nails long. This piece will cut the eight pairs of strings, which are each half a nail wide, and 7 nails long. After cutting out the cap, shape the head-pieces according to Fig. 4 in the Plate, by which it will be seen that 1¼ nail is taken off in a direct line from A to B. The piece for the horse-shoe crown must be folded, and rounded carefully at the top, and then sloped off in a direct line, thus cutting off half a nail from each side.

In making up the cap, place the straight part of the head-piece in front, and put two runners, besides hem, at equal distances from each other in front, say ¾ of a nail. Whip the back neatly, and after hemming the horse-shoe crown, sew the head-piece firmly to it. Some people hem a cord round the horse-shoe which gives it a greater firmness, and looks like a piping when the head-piece is sewed in, as it ought to be, to the bottom, instead of the top of the hem. A hem is made at the bottom of the cap for a string to draw. Double borders in front, a single one behind, and the strings sewed on, complete the cap.

A YOUNG SERVANT’S NEAT DAY-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 7, 8.

This shape is generally made of clear muslin, widow’s lawn, or jaconet, and is particularly adapted for girls on first going to service, from its neat simplicity.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------------------+----------+
| | Nails. |
|Best width of material | 16 or 24 |
|Width of cap | 8 |
|Length down the selvage | 5 |
|Quantity required for four caps, if yard wide | 10 |
+----------------------------------------------+----------+

The cap is folded in half the width, and cut according to Fig. 7. The side marked D is the doubled part. Mark on the opposite side 2 nails from the top, E, and slope or hollow out a piece from E to H very gradually, letting the greater width of the piece thus hollowed out not exceed half a nail.

Next slope off gradually from H to L at the distance of ½ a nail from the bottom; after which, cut the straight line E K, which is 1 nail in length, the letter K being situated about ¾ of a nail from the side and 1¼ from the top, and then slope gradually to M. In making up the cap, sew from E to K, and gather in the top from K to M, as in Fig. 8. A single or double border is put in front. This is a small size.

Fig. 18, 19, 27, and 28 are different shaped strings for caps.

ANOTHER NEAT CAP FOR SERVANTS.

PLATE 9. FIG. 9, 10.

This shape is particularly liked by the poor, from the ease with which it is made up and washed, as, upon undrawing the string, it opens readily at the top, and lies quite flat to be ironed.

As the shape is peculiar, if many are to be cut at once, it would be the least wasteful plan to cut out on a doubled piece of paper, the pattern of the cap, according to Fig. 9; open it out and lay it on the material in such directions as to cut to most advantage. If only one is to be cut, procure a piece of muslin 8 nails wide and 5½ nails long; which, when folded evenly in half its width, shape as follows, according to the Plate. The side marked D is the doubled part; from E at the bottom to F is 2¼ nails. From the top, G to H, measure 2¼ nails, and cut off in a sloping line from I, at the top of the doubled corner, to H, again cut from H to F, after which cut off from F to about ½ a nail above E, and then the shape of the cap is formed.

Strings of the usual size, ½ nail wide and 7 nails long, complete the cap.

In making it up, sew from H to Y, and then hem all round the open part along Y to I, and sew on a full frill of ¾ nail deep, and about 18 nails long. Afterwards hem the front and back of the cap, put double borders in front, and a single one behind, of 1 nail deep, and 3 breadths of 16 or 18 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 9. FIG. 11, 12.

This is a very simple shape, and for washing and making up is equally convenient with Fig 10. It answers well for a bonnet cap for ladies, in which case it might be made of net or tulle, with a quilling or lace border.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1 2 |
|Width of cap without runners | 4 |
|Length of cap down the selvage | 9 |
|Sloped off at the bottom from C to A | ½ |
+-------------------------------------+----------+

Fold the cap in half its length, making D the doubled part (see Fig. 11). Sew and fell from A to B, to the depth of 1 nail, and hem round the rest of the opening behind, to admit of a ribbon. Let there be two runners besides the hem in front, to admit of tape or narrow ribbon. The border must depend upon the purpose for which the cap is intended: if for a night-cap, a double border in front and single behind will be required: if for a bonnet cap, a double border or quilling only, in front will be sufficient. It may be as well also to remark, that if it is meant for a night-cap, the length of the cap down the selvage should be greater, say 11 or 12 nails; and the width of the material, to cut to the best advantage, must, of course, be either exactly the same, or double.

A NEAT SCHOOL-GIRL’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 13, 14.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+
| | Yds. nls. |
|Best width of material | 1 8 |
|Length of the crown down the selvage | 6 |
|Width of the crown, or three in the breadth | 8 |
|Length of the head-piece down the selvage | 8 |
|Width of the head-piece, or twelve in the breadth | 2 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 0 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 2 12 |
+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+

This pattern needs little further explanation, the shape and size are so clearly given in the Plate. The head-piece is sloped off at the ears, beginning to cut at 1 nail above the corner, to 1 nail beyond the corner, at the bottom of the cap.

This cap is for school girls, and is particularly neat if of checked muslin with corded muslin frills.

A FAVOURITE CAP FOR LADIES AND POOR WOMEN.

PLATE 9. FIG. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1 8 |
|Width of crown-piece, three in the width | 8 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 6½ |
|Width of head-piece, twelve in the breadth | 2 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 8 |
|Length of weepers (if wanted) down the selvage | 2½ |
|Width of ditto, sixteen in the breadth | 1½ |
|Length of bands down the selvage (if wanted) | 1 14 |
|Width of ditto, twelve in the width | 2 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps, without extras | 2 2 |
|Quantity for twelve, if with weepers | 2 5 |
|Quantity for twelve, if complete with bands | 4 3 |
|Width of bordering | 1 |
|Length of ditto, two breadths width | 1 8 |
+--------------------------------------------------+---------+

This cap is pretty and not expensive if made without the band and weepers, which, of course, add much to the cost; twelve is the best number to cut out at once. They are generally made for ladies of sprigged muslin, when the head-piece should be of strong muslin or fine calico. The borders are cambric, muslin, or net, edged with Valenciennes lace, or other neat trimming. The weepers are also frilled and edged, as also the rounded ends of the band. The crown is sloped off a little at the corner, as seen in Fig. 16, at A, which is about 2 nails from the corner. The weepers are also shaped to a point, as in Fig. 19 (see B). The band (Fig. 18) is gathered in at about 1½ nail from the end, which is rounded, with edging sewed on. The middle of the band is plaited, and sewed firmly on to the middle of the head-piece, in front.

A NEAT COMFORTABLE DAY OR NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 20.

This is a shape particularly suitable for day-caps for young servants, or night-caps for any age or station. If intended for day-caps, they should be made of clear or jaconet muslin; if for night-caps, of check or calico.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1 0 |
|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 8 |
|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 |
|Length of crown down the selvage | 6 |
|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 |
|Quantity required for four caps without strings | 14 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 10 |
+-----------------------------------------------------+----------+
| ⁂ Cap strings, for any number of caps not exceeding sixteen, |
| require seven additional nails, as sixteen pairs exactly cut in|
| the width, so that sixteen caps would he the most economical |
| number to cut. |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

The head-piece is a little sloped off at the ear from A to B, and is made up double, so as to be only 2 nails deep, when the cap is completed.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 21.

This shape is very suitable for a servant’s day or bonnet cap; it is simple and pretty in appearance, and not expensive.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1½ 0 |
|Length of crown down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 6 |
|Length of band down the selvage | 8 |
|Width of band[1] | 1 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 1 13 |
+-----------------------------------------------+----------+

[1] The remainder of the breadth from which the bands are cut will make strings.

In making it up, the band is doubled in half, the crown whipped and sewed to it, leaving it plain from A to B, for the space of 1¾ nail. A double border is sewn on in front.

AN OLD WOMAN’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 22, 23.

This shape is generally preferred by old women, as it sets comfortably over the ears.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------------+----------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 21 |
|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1¾ |
|Length of crown down the selvage | 9 |
|Width of ditto at the widest part, or three in the width| 7 |
|Width of ditto when sloped off at the bottom | 5 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 11 |
|Additional quantity for strings | 7 |
+--------------------------------------------------------+----------+

It is almost impossible to cut out a number of these caps without a little waste.

The head-pieces, when torn off, are 7 nails long, and 1¾ wide; double them in half their length, and then slope off from A to B, one nail. The straight part is the front, to which a border is sewed. The crown is next shaped, according to Fig. 23, for which purpose, double the piece in half its width, and from the corner, B, measure 7 nails on the side to A, and 1 nail on the bottom, to C, and cut off in a straight line from A to C. Round off the corner at the top, from A to D. The crown is sewed on plain for the space of 1½ nail from the bottom, and then evenly fulled into the remainder of the head-piece.

A POOR WOMAN’S NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 24, 25, 26.

This shape is sometimes made of linen, but generally of strong calico or check.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 18 |
|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 9 |
|Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1½ |
|Size of squares in which to cut out the circular crown,| |
| or two in the breadth | 9 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 3 15 |
|Additional quantity for twelve pair of strings | 7 |
+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+

The head-piece is sloped off, as in Fig. 24, from A, which is 1½ nail above the corner, B, to C.

The crown, after being rounded, is evenly fulled into the head-piece, which latter is sewed neatly together behind, at the opening, D C.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 27, 28.

This is a pretty shape for almost any purpose, and in any thin material; it is cut out in front very much in the same manner that a baby’s cap is cut behind, which will be seen if the Plate is turned round, so as to place the doubled part, D, at the top.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1 8 |
|Length of cap down the selvage | 5½ |
|Width of ditto, or three in the breadth | 8 |
|Depth from F to A | 1½ |
|Space from A to B, to be cut | 1 |
|Length to be cut from B to C | 2 |
|Then slope gradually, in a circular direction, | |
| from E to C | |
+-----------------------------------------------+---------+

In making up the cap, sew neatly from A to B, and then full in the part from E to C, evenly to the part between C and B; a hem in the front and at the back, is next made for a ribbon or tape, and a small bow, either of the same material (see Fig. 17), or white or coloured ribbon may be put at B (Fig. 28).

BATHING CAP.

These are made of oil-silk, and are worn, when bathing, by ladies who have long hair. Cut a piece of oil-silk, 4 nails long and 8 nails wide; double it so as to make a square; let the doubled part be the back of the cap, and slope off the corner at the top, towards the back, in a curve, so as to shape it to the form of the back of the head. Sew up along the top of the bathing cap, binding it with tape at the seam, both at the top and in the front. Lay on a tape behind to form a hem, making oylet-holes at the ears, and passing a string through each oylet-hole, which is fastened down at the opposite side; these strings draw up the cap, when worn, to the size required.

It is advisable, however, for those who have not long hair, to bathe in plain linen caps, so as to admit the water without the sand or grit, and thus the bather, unless prohibited on account of health, enjoys all the benefit of the shock without injuring the hair.

These caps are often worn by children when the head is shaved, if subject to diseases in the head, as ring-worm, scald-head, &c.

DRESSING-GOWNS.

PLATE 10.

Dressing-gowns are generally made of warm materials, for the winter, as flannels, either printed or plain, merino, shawl, either the real or imitation, and for gentlemen, of cloth or jean. For summer, they are of dimity, calico, twilled muslin, and sometimes, though rarely, of silk. There are various ways of making them; only a few of the most approved shapes will be here mentioned.

PLATE 10. FIG. 1.

A PLAIN USEFUL SHAPE, ESPECIALLY FOR MEN.

This gown is made with a deep hem turned up, and a strong piping at the top of it. It is divided into four, and the arm-holes left in the two front seams, sloping the flannel 1 nail deep, and 2½ nails long, for the shoulders. The neck-gusset is put in double, and the shoulder-strap laid over it. The gown must be neatly plaited behind and in front, set firmly into the double collar, and stitched with strong thread near the edge. Some people pipe every seam of a dressing-gown with white or coloured muslin, linen, or glazed calico. The back is drawn up by means of a string-case, over which a band should button. A large button is put on the band, and on the collar, and the button-holes should be very firmly sewed round, either with tape or with button-hole stitch. After putting in the sleeves, run or back-stitch the plaits firmly down again, at about ¼ nail below the gathering, to make them lie flat.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 4 Fig 5A Fig 5B Fig 6

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12

Fig 9 Fig 13 Fig 14

Fig 15 Fig 16

Fig 20 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 18 Fig 17

Fig 19 Fig 21 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29]

SCALE.

+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+
| —————————— | Man’s | Woman’s | Girl’s |
| | size. | size. |large size.|
+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls. |
|Width of flannel | 14 | 14 | 14 |
|Quantity required for one |10 5 | 8 10 | 6 0 |
|Length of skirts | 2 0 | 1¾ 0 | 1¼ 0 |
|Number of breadths | 4 0 | 4 0 | 4 0 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 12 | 10 | 8 |
|Width of ditto | 9 | 8 | 7 |
|Length of shoulder-strap | 4½ | 4 | 3½ |
|Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ | 1 |
|Size of double neck-gusset | 2½ | 2 | 2 |
|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 3 | 2½ |
|Width of collar | 5 | 6 | 4 |
|Length down the selvage | 10 | 8 | 8 |
|Width of wristband | 2½ | 2 | 2 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 4½ | 4 | 4 |
|Width of band | 2½ | 2 | 2 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 20 | 12 | 12 |
|Space to cut for the shoulders | 2½ | 2 | 2 |
|Depth for the shoulders to slope | 1 | 1 | ¾ |
+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+

PLATE 10. FIG. 2.

This figure represents a dressing-gown made of dimity. A deep hem of 3 or 4 nails is made at the bottom, insertion-work is sewed up the fronts, and round the cape, collar, and wrists, at the edge of the work a frill is put on. The gown is fulled in evenly to the shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at the top, and may be confined or not, at the waist behind, according to pleasure. The front is generally left unconfined, so that the band alone arranges it in folds.

FIG. 2, 3.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+
| —————————— | Woman’s | Woman’s |
| |large size.|small size.|
+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+
| |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |
|Width of material | 14 | 14 |
|Number of breadths | 3 breadths| 3 breadths|
|The one breadth crossed off at the top | 5 | 5½ |
|Length of breadths | 1¾ 0 |1½ 0 |
|Length of shoulder-strap | 3¼ | 3¼ |
|Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ |
|Length of neck-band or case | 10 | 9 |
|Space for shoulder | 3½ | 3½ |
|Length of arm-hole | 3 | 2½ |
|Arm-hole curved into the cloth | 1¼ | 1 |
|Length of waist | 5 | 4½ |
|Length of string-case | 10 | 8 |
|Sleeve cut according to Plate 12, |Fig. 5 & 6 |Fig. 5 & 6 |
| Fig. 5 and 6 | | |
|Collar cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 |
|Cape cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 |
+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+

PLATE 10. FIG. 3.

This gown, made of flannel, either plain or printed, is plaited in small regular folds at the neck, where a string-case of muslin or white ribbon is put for a string to pass through. The gown is again plaited in the same folds at the waist, in two rows, to which another string-case is sewed all round the waist. A deep hem is made at the bottom, and turned up with a piping of white; or if it is a printed flannel, of some coloured glazed calico or muslin; the ribbons in front are the same colour, and a flannel band is piped with it, as well as the wristbands and every seam on the shoulders, round the sleeves, &c. The sleeves should be stitched down about 1 nail below the shoulder, to make the fulness lie close and flat. If made of printed flannel, it is useful to wear at the sea-side, as a walking dress, to and from bathing.

CLOAK DRESSING-GOWN.

PLATE 10. FIG. 4.

This is a comfortable simple pattern; it can be made either of flannel or lighter material, and is equally suitable for men, women, and children; it is very convenient for the latter when taken out of a bath, or for sitting up in bed.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+
| —————————— | Man. | Woman. |Girl of 16 yrs.|
+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| Yds. nls. |
|Length of skirt |2 0 |1½ 0 | 1¼ 0 |
|Number of breadths |4 0 |4 0 | 4 0 |
|Space for shoulder | 2 | 1 | 1 |
|Depth of arm-holes | 5 | 4 | 3½ |
|Length of string-case | 12 | 10 | 9 |
|Length of band | 16 | 14 | 12 |
|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 |
|Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 |
|Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 |
|Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 |
| | | | |
+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+
| —————————— | Girl of 10 yrs. |Child of 5 yrs.|
+-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |
|Length of skirt | 1¼ 0 | 1½ 0 |
|Number of breadths | 3 0 | 3 0 |
|Space for shoulder | ¾ | ¾ |
|Depth of arm-holes | 3½ | 3 |
|Length of string-case | 8 | 7 |
|Length of band | 10 | 8 |
|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 4 | Fig. 4 |
|Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 31 | Fig. 13 |
|Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 |
|Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 |
| | cut smaller | cut smaller |
+-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+

After the seams have been herring-boned up, the cloak is folded in four, to find the shoulders, which are cut in a gentle slope to the proper width, and sewed up. The arm-holes having been left, the sleeves are next put in, after which, the gown is fulled evenly into the double shoulder-piece; the collar and cape are next put on; the hem at the bottom should be deep, and turned up with a flannel or tape piping; down the sides and round the cape, collar, &c., should be bound with flannel binding, to give a finish. Some persons omit the sleeves, having merely slits for the arms.

A DRESSING JACKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 5, 6.

Some persons merely wear a little flannel, calico, or twilled muslin dressing jacket, and as it is usually made to fit the figure, the breadths are much gored; for the purpose, therefore, of better explaining the shape, a figure is made of the breadth when cut out. Fig. 5 A, is half of the back breadth, which is doubled in two, and Fig. 5 B is the whole of one of the front breadths.

SCALE.

+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+
| | Woman’s | Woman’s | Girl’s | Girl’s |
| ———————— | large | small | large | small |
| | size. | size. | size. | size. |
+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+
|Number of breadths | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 |
|Width of material |12 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls.|
|Length of each breadth|14 — |12 — |10 — | 8 — |
|Length of sleeve |12 — |10 — | 8 — | 8 — |
|Width of ditto |10 — | 8 — | 8 — | 8 — |
|Length of collar | 8 — | 6½ — | 6 — | 5½ — |
|Width of ditto | 3 — | 3 — | 2 — | 2 — |
|Size of neck-gusset | 2 — | 1¾ — | 1½ — | 1¼ — |
|Length of arm-hole | 4 — | 4 — | 3½ — | 3 — |
|Length of string-case | 4 — | 3½ — | 3½ — | 3 — |
|Space for shoulder | 3¾ — | 3½ — | 3 — | 2½ — |
|Length of skirt-gusset| 4 — | 3 — | 3 — | 2½ — |
|Breadth of ditto | 2 — | 1½ — | 1½ — | 1½ — |
+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+

FIG. 5 A.

Or half the back of the jacket when cut out, supposing the breadth to be folded exactly in two.

Let A L be the folded side.

SCALE.

+---------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
+---------------------------+-------+
| Space from A to B | 5½ |
| Do. do. B to C | 2½ |
| Do. do. C to D | 3½ |
| Do. do. D to E | 1¼ |
| Do. do. D to F | 2½ |
| Do. do. F to G | ¾ |
| Do. do. F to H | 3 |
| Do. do. H to I | 1½ |
| Do. do. H to J | ½ |
| Do. do. J to K | 3 |
| Do. do. K to L | 2½ |
+---------------------------+-------+

FIG. 5 B.

Or the whole of one of the front breadths.

SCALE.

+--------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
+--------------------+--------+
| Space from A to B | 4 |
| Do. do. B to C | 4½ |
| Do. do. C to D | 1 |
| Do. do. C to E | 2½ |
| Do. do. E to F | 2¾ |
| Do. do. E to G | 1 |
| Do. do. G to H | 2¾ |
| Do. do. H to I | 2¼ |
| Do. do. I to J | 6 |
| Do. do. J to K | 12 |
+--------------------+--------+

In making up this jacket, sew the 3 breadths together, putting in at the bottom two gussets or triangular pieces. Make a narrow hem at the bottom, sew up the shoulders, and put in the sleeves. Set the back breadth plainly into the collar, but full it at each end into the neck gusset, and also in front. Put the string-case about a nail lower than the arm-holes.

FLANNEL PETTICOATS.

PLATE 10. FIG. 7.

The breadths of flannel are cut according to the height of the person, allowing a good tuck besides, to be let down after the petticoat has been washed.

SCALE.

First or largest size, for a full grown woman:—3 breadths
of flannel sewed simply together; slit behind 6 nails
deep, and opened in a seam.

Second size, for a middle sized woman, 2½ breadths; the half
is crossed off 5 nails, and the two gores are sewed,
one on each side, between the two plain breadths; slit
behind 5 nails; it is made in the middle of one of
the plain breadths. It is more economical to cut two
petticoats at once, as 5 breadths will make two, but it
requires 3 to cut one out, and there must be waste.

Third size, for a girl of fourteen or sixteen, 2 breadths.
From 1 breadth is cut a gore of 5 nails at the top,
sloped off to 1 nail; this gore is sewed at the opposite
side of the same breadth, placing the 1 nail width at
the narrow end of the breadth. The slit behind must be
determined by doubling the petticoat exactly in half,
letting it be about 4 nails long.

Another way of cutting this petticoat, is by crossing it
like a shift, and then putting the two broader ends to
the bottom, while the narrow part is at the top; by this
method there is no waste, and it saves both time and
trouble.

Fourth size, 2 breadths: 1 breadth is cut in half, and 1
half is gored 5 nails; the two gores are sewed, one on
each side of the whole breadth, in front, and the half
breadth is put in behind. The slit is torn down the
middle of the half-breadth, and is 4 nails long.

Fifth size, for a girl eight or ten, 1½ breadth. The ½
breadth is gored, and the whole breadth torn in half;
a gore is sewed on each side between the two half breadths.
Slit behind 3 nails deep, in the middle of the ½ breadth,
behind.

Sixth size, for a child five or six, 1½ or 2 breadths, sewed
simply together without goring. Slit 3 nails long behind.

Petticoats are variously made up. The most usual way is plaiting the top in regular folds on each side, letting it be quite plain, or nearly so, in front; it is then set firmly into a linen, calico, or jean band, of the proper width to encircle the waist, and of 1 nail deep when doubled and turned in. Strong tapes are sewed to the ends of the band, and sometimes a large button-hole is made in the band, about 2 nails from the end, through which the tape of the opposite end is drawn, which makes the petticoat set neatly to the figure.

Another manner is to make the petticoat up without any slit behind, so as to be a round skirt; a band of the same size is set on quite plainly, without plait or fulness (see Fig. 8). A runner is made all round in the middle of the band, and two button-holes for the strings to come out of, are made at the two sides of the petticoat under the arm; one tape is sewed firmly down at the end of one of the button-holes, carried all round the petticoat, and drawn out again at the same hole; the other tape, in a similar manner, is sewed down at the other button-hole: when the petticoat is on, and the tapes drawn and tied in front, the fulled part lies behind, forming a sort of bustle to set off the dress properly (see Fig. 9).

The tops for children’s petticoats are generally a kind of stay, to which the skirt is either sewed or fastened by means of buttons, and to which the drawers button also. For children’s stays, see Plate 11.

POCKETS.

PLATE 10.

Pockets are either worn tied round the waist, fastened into the petticoat, or buttoned upon the stays. When fastened into the petticoat, they are made of the same material, otherwise of dimity, calico, jean, twilled muslin, and sometimes of nankeen or brown jean.

Take a doubled piece of six nails width-way, and seven nails selvage-way when doubled, and cut according to Fig. 10. For this purpose, double the folded piece in half width-way, and slope off from A to B one nail. The hole in the pocket is slit down about four nails, beginning at three-quarters of a nail from the top. Cut the slit in the shape of an I, in order to allow of a deep hem being made on each side. The two pieces of the pocket are run firmly together all round, at a little distance from the edge, on the wrong side. It is then turned inside out, the seam well flattened, and back-stitched all round with white silk, about a quarter of an inch from the edge. The top is set into a broad piece of tape, which is doubled over it and forms the strings also. The slit is hemmed or back-stitched neatly down. Sometimes an inner pocket or pockets are made for a watch, &c., and this is done by sewing a square piece of the material inside the pocket. The top is left open, but the sides and bottom of it are firmly sewed down.

ANOTHER POCKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 11.

This differs from the other merely in having the slit cut the contrary way, so as to open width, instead of length-wise.

ANOTHER POCKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 13, 14.

This shape is preferred by some persons, as it sets better to the figure than the others. The straight side is worn in front; and, in cutting out a pair of pockets, care must be taken to make them for the right and left side. The shape is exactly the same as Fig. 10, excepting that, after they are cut out, a gore is taken off from the one side and sewed on to the other, by which means the one is straight and the other, in consequence of the addition, is very much sloped. When pockets are fastened into gowns and petticoats, they are a little fulled at the top, and the slit of the pocket is sewed to the corresponding slit of the petticoat. Some people cut out the slit for the pocket differently, as they are considered to lie flatter to the person than the usual shaped pocket. It is formed by making an oblong bag or pocket, about eight nails long and five nails wide, and cutting at one end, in a slanting direction, so as to take off a triangular piece. To save waste, it is better to make two pockets at once, letting the oblong piece be still five nails wide, when doubled, but fifteen nails long (see Fig. 12); crease it in half its length, and then cut, in a slanting direction, across from A to B. The part cut forms the slit or opening to the pocket, which is sewed all round to the slit in the petticoat or gown.

ANOTHER METHOD.

This is simply a lining or square piece of calico, about ten nails wide and eight nails deep, sewed to the inside of the petticoat quite plainly. The petticoat has a slit of four nails deep.

FRILLS.

Frills are in use when high gowns are worn, and are made of cambric, muslin, net, lace, tulle, crape, &c.

A SIMPLE FRILL.

This is merely a strip of muslin, about fourteen nails long and three nails wide, more or less, according to pleasure. It is merely hemmed all round, and simply plaited up, in regular folds, to the proper size.

A PARTICULARLY NEAT FRILL.

PLATE 10. FIG. 15.

This is made of net or clear muslin, and is neatly fulled to the band. The edge, instead of being hemmed, is rolled over a bobbin to stiffen it. The band is about half a nail wide, and doubled, and is nine nails long. The frill on each side is fourteen nails long, and two nails wide. A button-hole is put in the middle to fasten it to the gown, and it ties at the ends with ribbons.

A CRIMPED FRILL.

PLATE 10. FIG. 16.

This is very suitable for young children, especially boys, and is generally made of lawn or cambric. The frill should be double the length of the size round the neck, and about one nail wide. A neat hem at one edge, and the other is sewed to a band of the proper length, say about five nails, and of half a nail in depth. These frills should be crimped very neatly.

PLATE 10. FIG. 17.

This frill is to be made like Fig. 15, excepting that the muslin is only one nail deep, and crimped in the same manner as Fig. 16. It is very suitable for young children.

PLATE 10. FIG. 18.

Another and more ornamental frill, made of muslin or net, with edging sewed on it.

The muslin or net must be about four nails wide, and fourteen or sixteen nails long. The frill is creased down the middle, and on each side of the crease, at a quarter of a nail distance, it is neatly run with a long thread, and drawn up to the proper width, forming a puffing in the centre of the frill. This puffing is first stroked with the needle into an even fulness, and then sewed at each side close to the gatherings, to a band of a quarter of a nail wide only, or still narrower, so as to raise the puffing sufficiently to look well, and yet not too much to admit of a ribbon being drawn smoothly through it. This ribbon ties the frill round the neck.

PLATE 10. FIG. 19.

This is a very simple frill, and, when well made, looks remarkably neat. The net of which it is composed must be about two nails and a quarter wide, creased in the middle, and finely plaited in small neat plaits. It is then doubled, and bound on the outside down the folded centre with a narrow ribbon, so that the two sides of the frill lie close together, instead of being open, like Fig. 18.

ANOTHER FRILL.

This kind, which is sometimes called a Ruche, is made exactly contrary to the usual mode. The frill, instead of being run down the middle, is joined down the sides, and confined at the joining into a ribbon, so that the top of the frill is double; and as it is usually made of tulle, or some rather stiff material, it stands out stiffly from the neck. Pelerines have sometimes a double frill or Ruche, of the same material that they are made of, sewed to them.

CUFFS.

PLATE 10.

There are various kinds of cuffs, for different purposes, of which the most useful only are here explained.

TIDY CUFFS.

PLATE 10. FIG. 20, 21.

Tidy cuffs are much worn by persons whose employments are apt to injure the sleeve of the gown, either by wearing it out, staining, or greasing it. They are very valuable whilst drawing, writing, pasting, or when in the kitchen; and in these cases are generally made of Holland or nankeen, and when braided with dark blue, green, crimson, brown, or any other suitable colour, with ribbons to lace up of the same, they have a particularly neat effect. The cuff is cut out as follows (Fig. 21):—Procure a piece of Holland four nails down the selvage, and five nails wide; double it in half its width, and slope down by the selvage from A to D, and from B to C, cutting off half a nail in a direct slope, so that, when open, the end, C D, is but four nails wide, while A B is five. Turn down a deep hem along each of the sloped sides half a nail deep, and over the stitches put a braid, with two other rows of the same close together on the hem, leaving sufficient space between to insert a thin whalebone to support the cuff, and keep it from wrinkling when on the arm. The lace-holes are worked with silk the same colour as the ribbon. Fig. 20 represents the cuff when laced up.

PLATE 10. FIG. 22.

This is a neat cuff to lay on the dress, and is either made of plain net, of lace, or of muslin, with or without edging, and sometimes of satin ribbon. If for mourning, the net should have a broad hem. It is gathered and sewed into a band about one nail deep, and three or three and a half wide, according to the size of the wrist. There should be two pearl buttons set on one end, and button-holes made to correspond.

PLATE 10. FIG. 23.

This is a plain band, to be made to fit the wrist exactly, of silk, satin, or velvet, to be laid on a thin evening sleeve. It may be one nail broad or more. A rouleau is sometimes laid on round it, or a narrow piping. If it is made of silk the colour of the dress, or of white silk embroidered, it has a very pretty effect.

PLATE 10. FIG. 24.

This is a dress cuff, to wear with lace or tulle sleeves, and may be made of any rich material, with a piping of satin and an edging of blonde or lace. The inside is sometimes embroidered in floss silk. In cutting it out, procure a piece of paper about two nails and a half deep, and four nails long; double it in half its length, and measure up the side from A to C, one nail and a quarter, leaving from C to the upper edge, J, one nail and a quarter also. Cut off the corner from E to C, curving it a little inwards, and again, from C to A, cut off in a direct line one quarter of a nail. Open it, and it will resemble Fig. 24 exactly.

PLATE 10. FIG. 25.

This cuff resembles the preceding one, but has, in addition, a small second cuff laid on the lower part of it, and a slit cut down from the top to about one nail and a quarter depth from A to B. The top of the second cuff comes just below the slit, and it is a little sloped away at the sides.

PLATE 10. FIG. 26.

A cuff worn in deep mourning, especially by widows, and made either of clear muslin or black crape. It consists of fold lying upon fold, and is either sewed upon the sleeve or made to slip over the hand. The folds are four or five in number, and lie just one above the other, each being about a quarter of a nail deep.

PLATE 10. FIG. 27.

This is to be worn as a trimming or edging, below the sleeve, upon the hand: the band buttons inside the sleeve. The frill is of muslin, cambric, net, or lace. It should be very full, and got up in puffs, or very finely crimped. The ends of the bands should have deep hems, in which the button-holes are worked. The band is about three-quarters of a nail deep, and three or three nails and a half wide.

PLATE 10. FIG. 28.

This is a neat simple little cuff, and suits the collar, Plate 13, Fig. 26. It is well adapted for mourning. Cut two pieces of muslin, net, lawn, or cambric, of two nails square, and hem each round with a broad hem; sew the two together to the depth of about one nail; the parts sewed together form a sort of band inside, while the others, being unattached, fall backwards over the sleeve.

PLATE 10. FIG. 29.

A simple, plain, mourning cuff, with a broad hem above and below. The cuff to be about two nails deep, and three and a half or four nails long, according to the size of the wrist.

APRONS.

PLATE 11.

If for common use, aprons are made of white, brown, blue, black, or checked linen, of black stuff, calico, Holland, leather, nankeen, print, or long cloth; if for better purposes, of cambric muslin, clear, mulled, or jaconet muslin, silk, satinette, satin, &c. The length of the apron is, of course, generally determined by the height of the wearer, and the width, by that of the material, and by the purpose for which it is intended. For working aprons, the width is generally one breadth of a yard wide; for dress aprons, two breadths, one of which is cut in half, and these halves put one on each side of the whole breadth. If the material should be wide enough, one breadth, of from fourteen to twenty nails, will answer very well.

DRESS APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 1.

This is made of satinette, or thick satin silk, and consists of two breadths, one in front, and a half-breadth sewed on each side of it. None of them are to be at all sloped. The length is regulated by the pleasure of the wearer, and a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail deep is made all round. The length of the band must vary according to the size of the waist, and must be cut by Fig. L, which represents it when doubled. The part from A to B, or that to which the apron is fulled, is five nails and a half; from A to C is one nail and a half; and from B to D is one full nail. The remainder of the band, from B D, onwards to F, is determined by the size of the waist. A piece of whalebone is stitched into the centre of the band, A C, and on each side of it a little chain-stitch is worked, in thick silk, of the same colour as the apron. The folds are exactly according to the Plate, beginning within the hem, and laid evenly along until below the whalebone, when a space is left. The chain-stitch is next worked in two rows, parallel with the curved shape of the band, allowing little more than a quarter of a nail between the rows. By this means the folds are neatly confined, and it prevents the bustling effect they might otherwise have. These folds are very small and close. The band has a small piping below, but is plain at the top, and fastens behind with hooks and eyes.

Fig L Fig P

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5

Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9

Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13

Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 26

Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25

Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 27 Fig 28

Fig 29 Fig 30 Fig 32

Fig 31

Fig 33]

PLATE 11. FIG. 2.

This apron is generally made of silk, but looks well also in muslin. It requires care in the making as well as in the washing. The vandykes are formed by turning the edge of the apron down once, all round, to about three-quarters of a nail deep; and, after tacking it firmly down, vandykes are neatly run, in very small stitches (Fig. 5), from the edge of the apron to pretty near the rough edge of the silk, leaving sufficient to turn in well afterwards:—thus, let the vandykes be run to the depth of from A to B, leaving a small space all the way from B to C. When finished turn each vandyke inside out, and smooth all the wrinkles at the corners and points with a stiletto or scissors. When it is well and evenly pulled out, turn in the rough edge and hem it neatly down. Sometimes a little braid, or a row of chain-stitch, is put over the stitches on the right side. The plaits are regularly laid, those on each side being folded towards the middle. The band is frequently lined with buckram or stiff muslin, and is made with or without piping. Scollops are sometimes substituted for vandykes.

PLATE 11. FIG. 3.

This apron is of muslin, either clear or otherwise. A broad hem is made all round, of the proper width to admit a coloured or white ribbon of the half or three-quarter nail breadth. Some fine work or edging may be sewed to the hem all round. The band should be open at the ends to admit of the ribbon that ties it being drawn out when the apron is washed. The hem all round should also be kept open at the ends for the same purpose, and merely tacked up when the ribbon is put in.

PLATE 11. FIG. 4.

This is an apron with a broad hem all round, and a full frill of any fine material.

PLATE 11. FIG. 6.

A clear muslin apron, with a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail deep, and a shawl bordering laid all round within the hem, either half or three-quarters of a nail deep. This is a pretty apron for a young person. The bordering must be taken off before the apron is washed.

PLATE 11. FIG. 7.

This represents the bottom of an apron when hollowed out. It has a simple broad hem, turned up with a piping.

PLATE 11. FIG. 8.