Chapter I: Front Matter (1)

TRAVELS
IN
TURKEY
AND BACK TO
ENGLAND.

By the late Reverend and Learned
_EDMUND CHISHULL_, B. D.
Chaplain to the FACTORY of the
Worshipful TURKEY COMPANY at _SMYRNA_.

_LONDON_,
Printed by _W. Bowyer_ in the Year MDCCXLVII.

THE PREFACE.

_No books are generally more entertaining and instructive, than the accounts of travels into foreign countries; and especially those, which are written in the way of_ Journals. _For he, who reads such narratives, is almost apt to fancy himself in company with the traveler, and to take part with him in all his adventures; which at the same time that they shew the peculiar temper, customs, and manners of different nations, excite also a variety of passions, which by their succession please the mind, and make the chief delight even in theatrical performances._

_Upon this account it is, that the_ Letters _of_ Busbequius, _during his embassy in_ Turkey; _and the_ Journies _of our ingenious and learned countryman Mr._ Maundrell, _thro several parts of the same vast empire, which he has so accurately described; are repeatedly read, and always with new pleasure_.

_Therefore, when Mr._ Edmund Chishull, _only Son of the late Reverend_ Mr. Chishull, _who was for some years chaplain to the_ Factory _of our Worshipful_ Turkey Company _at_ Smyrna, _brought to me not many months since the present_ Journal _of his Father’s_ Travels, _desiring me to peruse it, and give him my opinion, whether it was a work worthy to be published; I could not refuse his request but applied myself with due care to read and examine it. And I was the more readily induced to this, as I had thro a course of many years the happiness of a perfect acquaintance with his father, even from his return home to his death; and knew him, as well from his conversation, as his writings (particularly that justly celebrated book of his_ Antiquitates Asiaticae) _to be not only a man of uncommon learning, but likewise of great sagacity, and indefatigable diligence_.

_And indeed my pains in the perusal of these papers were very well rewarded. For besides an agreable amusement common to other writings of this nature, they gave me very useful instruction as to several passages in ancient historians, and other classic authors; and at the same time illustrated many old inscriptions, several of which are now first published, and others taken with greater exactness, than had been done formerly._

_Hence I could not but persuade the young Gentleman to oblige the world with this work, and to have it printed in such a manner, as his freinds should advise him. Tho I easily foresaw, that the doing of this would necessarily be attended with some difficulties; as Mr._ Chishull _had put into writing those occurrences, which he thought worthy of his notice, at such leisure minutes, as he could snatch from the constant fatigues of his journey; and by that means had sometimes not only thrown many things together without exact order, but often left the places cited from ancient writers to be supplied out of their own works. And besides, his hand being both small and hasty, was frequently not very easy to be read; so that many of the words, as to the manner of spelling, appeared doubtful and uncertain. This made it needful to have the whole first fairly transcribed, and then to fill up the quotations. The former task therefore I committed to a professed penman, and the latter I undertook myself. In the doing of which I not only carefully compared the transcriber’s copy with the original; but had recourse to the authors themselves, and took out of them the several passages, to which the references were made._

_When Mr._ Chishull _left_ England, _he was fellow of_ Corpus Christi _college in_ Oxford, _and had a grant of the traveler’s place from the president and society. He set sail from the_ Downs _September the 12, 1698, in the_ Neptune _frigate, Capt._ Thomas _commander, and arrived at_ Smyrna _November the 19 following. During the voyage, agreably to his usual diligence, he constantly kept a_ Journal _of what then offered. But as nothing very remarkable occurred at sea; for that reason the account of his_ Travels, _which is here published, begins with a_ Journey _undertaken by him some months after his settlement at_ Smyrna. _However as in his passage he went on shoar first at_ Cadiz, _then at_ Messina, _and after that in the island of_ Milo; _in each of which places he made several observations, which he afterwards sent in a_ Letter _from_ Smyrna _to Dr._ Thomas Turner, _president of his college: that_ Letter is _likewise now published at the end of this book_.

_But as he has generally remarked the situation, government, and other curiosities, of the most considerable cities, thro which he passed; it may seem strange, that no account is here given of_ Smyrna, _the place of his residence, and where, as he himself tells us, he continued from November 19, 1698, to February 10, 1701-2. This however was occasioned by his design of treating upon that place in a more distinct and particular manner; for which purpose there is a large number of minutes, or heads, detached in a separate part of the book, relating both to the antient and present state of the city; which were afterwards to have been filled up, and inlarged. Tho as they are now left, nothing more appears, that can be of any service to the public, than what here follows._

The antiquities now extant in this place are these. The _castle_, which was _Roman_, and where _Dolabella_ beheaded _Trebonius_. The large head of _Smyrna_ the _Amazon_ over the gate of the same. The inscription relating to _Joannes Ducas_ over another gate of the same, with the modern oriental _eagle_ on both sides. The small remains of the _theatre_, in which _S. Polycarp_ was burnt, lately taken to pieces to build the _Vizír kane_ of the place, and _bezesten_, or _market_. The reliques of _St. John’s church_. The space and walls of an ancient _cirque_. All which are on the said castle hill, which immediately overlooks the city. The ruins of the _temple of Apollo_ at the foot of mount _Corycus_, in an olive grove, and over the θερμὰ ὕδατα. The ruins of the _temple of Aesculapius_, or _Neptune_, in the way to _Eshekléer_; where was lately found the head of _Janus_, and another of _M. Modius_. A rich and delicate pavement of _mosaic_ work by the sea side, towards the north, at a place where the outer wall terminates in the shore; which possibly is the remains of the _gymnasium_, or some heathen temple. The several _inscriptions_ there lately found, reported in _Prideaux_, or at the end of this book. The large _stones_ of a yard and half square in a great and massy wall, now part of a _kane_ in the _Armenian_ street, on all of which is marked the letter V, as large as the breadth of the stone would permit. The remains of an old _Roman_ way, paved with broad and massy stones, but smooth, in the road over the castle hill toward _Ephesus_. The remains of the ancient wall encompassing the _pomoerium_, or a large space of ground about two thousand paces distant all round from the castle, or the city. The scarcity of antiquities now to be found in _Smyrna_ arises from hence, that it furnished the greatest part of the _Marmora Arundeliana_.

_The inscriptions here said to be_ reported in Prideaux, _are to be found in the Doctor’s edition of the_ Marmora Arundeliana. _And as to those referred to_ at the end of our author’s book, _such of them will be here subjoined, as are not in the large collection designed by him for a_ second part _of his_ Antiquitates Asiaticae; _of which a few sheets only, containing those which relate to_ Ephesus, _were printed by him a little before his death, and the rest are now in my possession_.

In a very pleasant valley near the bank of the river _Meles_, scarce thirty paces without the city.

ΜΕΝΟΣ[1]
ΙΕΡΟΝ
ΑΦΡΟΔΙΤΗΣ
ΣΤΡΑΤΟΝΙΚΙΔΟΣ[2]
... ΟΥ ΗΔΕ Κ[ΥΚ
ΛΩΙ] ΤΟ ΠΑΡΑΠ[ΑΝ[3]
...ΚΕΙΜ]ΕΝΟΝ ΑΠΟ ΤΩΝ
..Π]ΛΕΘΡΩΝ ΚΑΤΑ
ΤΑΣΣΕΤΑΙ ΕΙΣ
ΤΑΣ ΙΕΡΑΣ[ΜΗ
ΤΡΟΣ ΟΔΟΥΣ[4]

On a hill near the castle.

Τ. ΦΛ. ΕΥΕΙΔΗΣ ΔΙΑΔΕΞΑΜΕΝΟΣ ΤΗΝ
ΜΗΤΕΡΑ ΦΛ. ΑΦΡΟΔΕΙΣΙΑΝ ΕΩΝΗΣΑΜΕΝΗΝ
ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΠΡΟΣΚΑΤΕΣΚΑΥΑΣΕΝ ΕΑΥ
ΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΤΥΧΗ ΤΗ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΠΕΡ
ΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΥΙΩ · ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΤΟΙΧΟ
ΜΕΝΟΙΣ

On a square stone in the house of the English consul, being of a later age.

ΒΕΒΙΑ ΑΠΦΕΙΝΤΟ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΕΝϹΟΡΙΑ
ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ϹΟΡΟΝ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΙ ΤΩ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΩ
ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΟΙΚΗΜΑΤΑ ΠΡΟϹΚΕΙΜΕΝΑ · ΟΙΚΟϹ ΚΛΕΙΜΑΞ[5] ΚΟΙΤΩΝ
ΜΕΔΕΙΑΝΟΝ ΤΡΙΚΛΕΙΝΟΝ ΟϹΤΟΘΗΚΑΙ. Β. Ϲ.
ΕΚΕΛΥϹΙϹ ΕΑΥΤΗ ΚΑΙ ϹΥΝΤΡΟΦΩ ΤΩ ΑΝΔΡΙ
ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΤΕΚΝΟΙϹ ΑΥΤΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙϹ
ΑΥΤΩΝ. ΧΑΙΡΕ ΚΑΙ ϹΥ.

_What he has said in relation to the present_ Smyrna, _is as follows_.

_Smyrna_ is situated in the latitude of 38_gr._ 40_m._ in a deep bay, that enters within the continent about ten leagues; and is so well defended by the _Erythraean_ promontory, now cape _Kara Bornu_, and mount _Corycus_, with the hills commonly called _Cordilieu_, and its own windings, that it is every where a port, affording good depths and secure anchorage. Immediately within the bay are seven islands, lying in length towards the port of _Vourlá_, antiently _Clazomenae_, which of old were called the _Peristerides_; and the biggest of them, _Megale_, is now by the English named _Long Island_, over against _Fochia Vecchia_, or _Phocaea_. Cape _Kara Bornu_, or _Black Nose_ (antiently the ἄκρα μέλαινα) afforded, as _Strabo_ says, excellent mill stones; which is not unknown to the present inhabitants, and therefore we there see several mills now employed. Within two leagues and a half of the city the _Hermus_ enters the bay, and there forms a bed of sand; which being met by a point of land from the opposite shore stops up the haven by a very narrow chanel, thus rendring it κλειστὸς, as _Strabo_ then expressed it. On the said point stands a new and strong fort, called _Sangiac Castle_; because the _Grand Signior’s_ colours are there exposed, on occasions that require it. From hence we sail towards _Smyrna_, in a fair and long arm of the sea, which imitates the pleasures of a canal; whilst the woody mountains on each side, with the city at one end, and the castle at the other, conspire to give a mutual beauty to one another.

_Had our author lived to finish his elaborate account of_ Smyrna, _from the large materials he had collected for that design, it would doubtless have been a very useful work, and thrown much light upon many passages in ancient writers. And indeed every part of his_ Travels _must certainly have received great advantage and improvements from his review. Tho I question not, but in their present state they will meet with such a reception from the public, as will reward the labours of the learned Father, by a proper incouragement given to his industrious Son._

_I shall only add, that some intimation having been given of a_ Map, _designed to be published with this book that was judged afterwards not so necessary, as at first was apprehended; since there are so many maps already extant of those countries, which make the subject of these_ Travels. _And therefore as the principal use of such a map would have been to exhibit both the ancient and modern names of several places, which are mentioned by our author; an_ Index _was thought more commodious for that purpose. Besides, as he has occasionally introduced many Turkish and other foreign words, without explaining them; this affords likewise an opportunity for their explication. As the benefit of the reader has been consulted in this alteration; so it is not to be doubted, but he will find the advantage of it in perusing the work._

August 12, 1747.

R. MEAD.

THE NAMES OF THE SUBSCRIBERS.

A.

_Lord Viscount_ Andover.
Swithin Adee, _D. M._
_Rev. Mr._ William Allen, _of_ Lambeth.
_Rev. Mr._ Altham, _Rector of_ Woodford, _in_ Essex.
Edward Andrews, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ Benjamin Archer.
_Rev. Mr._ Richard Arnald, _Rector of_ Thurcaston, Leicestershire.
_Rev. Dr._ Astrey, _Treasurer of_ St. Paul’s.

B.

Richard _Earl of_ Burlington.
_Countess of_ Burlington.
John _Lord_ Berkeley _of_ Straton.
_Dr._ Martin Benson, _Lord Bishop of_ Gloucester.
_Dr._ Joseph Butler, _Lord Bishop of_ Bristol.
_Rev. Dr._ Baker, _Residentiary of_ St. Paul’s.
_Sir_ John Barnard.
_Mr._ Savage Barrell.
Thomas Lennard Barrett, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Solomon Barton.
_Mr._ John Baxter.
_Mr._ Jos. Baxter.
_Rev._ Robert Beachcroft, _M. A._
_Mr._ Thomas Beale.
William Belchier, _Esq;_
_Mr._ George Bell.
_Sir_ Edward Bellamy.
_Captain_ Bennett.
William Henry Bernard, _Esq;_
Elias Bird, _Esq;_
_Mr._ James Bird.
_Mr._ Alexander Black.
_Mr._ William Black.
William Blackbourne, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ Blackbourne, _Vicar of_ Dagenham.
_Sir_ Henry Blunt, _Bart._
_Mr._ Richard Blunt.
William Blunt, _Esq;_
John Bond, _Esq;_
Daniel Booth, _Esq;_
_Mrs._ Bowles.
Benjamin Bosanquet, _M. D._ _4 Copies._
Samuel Bosanquet, _Esq;_
_Mrs._ Bosanquet.
Samuel Bracebridge, _of_ Linley, _Esq;_
Thomas Bradshaw _of_ Upminster, _Esq;_
Thomas Bramston, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Edward Brice.
_Rev._ John Brice, _A. M._
_Rev. Dr._ Ralph Bridges.
_Rev. Mr._ Bruce.
_Mr._ Samuel Buckley.
_Mr._ Samuel Burch.
_Mr._ George Burrward.

C.

William _Earl_ Cooper.
John _Lord Viscount_ Castlemain.
_Lord_ Charles Cavendish.
_Lady_ Colerane.
_Dr._ Edward Chandler, _Lord Bishop of_ Durham.
_Dr._ Robert Clayton, _Lord Bishop of_ Clogher.
William Cartwright _of_ Ayno, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ Castle, _Vice-Chancellor of_ Cambridge.
Cawley Humberston Cawley, _Esq;_
John Cay, _Esq;_
_Sir_ John Chapman, _Bart._
_Mrs._ Chelton.
_Mr._ Richard Cheslyn.
Dennis Clarke, _LL. D._
_Mrs._ Mary Clarke.
_Mr._ Richard Clarke, _Jun._
_Mr._ Thomas Clarke.
_Rev._ John Cleeve, _B. D._
_Mr._ George Collard.
_Mrs._ Collard.
Valens Comyn, _Esq;_
John Conyers, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Richard Cooke.
John Cookes, _Esq;_
_Mr._ George Cornwall.
_Mr._ William Cramond.
_Mr._ George Crawford.
_Mr._ Gideon Crawford.
_Mr._ John Crichlowe.
_Mr._ David Crichston.
Sir John Cross, _Bart._
Thomas Crowe, _M. D._
_Mr._ John Cruikshank.
_Rev._ Mr. Alexander Cuningham.

D.

William _Duke of_ Devonshire.
William _Lord_ Digby.
_Mr._ Thomas Davison.
Richard Dawson, _Esq;_
_Mrs._ Alice Deacon.
_Mr._ Thomas Delamotte.
_Dr._ Patrick Delaney, _Dean of_ Downe.
_Mr._ William De Santhuns.
_Mr._ William Dillingham.
_Mr._ Robert Dobson.
_Mr._ Woodroof Drinkwater.
William Dunster, _Esq;_
_Mrs._ Dunster.

E.

John _Earl of_ Egmont.
_Mr._ Thomas Eames.
John Eaton, _Esq;_
Peter Eaton, _Esq;_
Richard Edwards, _Esq;_
_Mr._ George Ellis.
_Mr._ John Ellis.
_Rev._ John Emerson, _A. M._
_Mrs._ Elizabeth Esson.
_Sir_ John Evelyn, _Bart._
Anthony Ewer, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ Ewer.
_Mr._ William Ewer.
_Mr._ Thomas Ewer.
_Mr._ George Exton.
_Mr._ Joseph Eyre.

F.

_Sir_ Everard Fawkener.
_Mr._ Felix Feast.
Daniel Finch, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ John Finch.
_Rev. Mr._ Philip Fletcher, _Dean of_ Kildare.
_Mr._ Thomas Fletcher.
_Rev. Mr._ William Fletcher, _Prebendary of_ Christ Church, Dublin.
Martin Folkes, _Esq;_
_Sir_ Andrew Fountaine.
John Forbes, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Thomas Forbes.
Alexander Forrester, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ Thomas Foxley, _Rector of_ Stratford _by_ Bow.
Aaron Franks, _Esq;_
Napthaly Franks, _Esq;_
_Mr._ James Fuller.
Thomas Fytche, _Esq;_

G.

_Dr._ John Gilbert, _Lord Bishop of_ Landaff.
_Dr._ Thomas Gooch, _Lord Bishop of_ Norwich.
_Marchioness of_ Gray.
_Lady_ Griffin.
_Mr._ Daniel Gallon.
George Garrett, _Esq;_
_Mrs._ Gibson.
_Mr._ Richard Gildart, _Jun._
_Mr._ Francis Gillow.
George Girardot, _Esq;_
_Mr._ John Goddard, _2 Copies_.
Peter Godfrey, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Sherman Godfrey.
_Mrs._ Thomasin Gouge.
_Mr._ James Graham, _3 Copies_.
_Rev. Mr._ Richard Graves.
Charles Gray, _Esq;_
_Rev. Dr._ Green, _Prebendary of_ Worcester.
_Rev. Dr._ Grey, _Rector of_ Houghton Conquest, Bedfordshire.
_General_ Guise.

H.

Philip _Lord_ Hardwicke, _Lord High Chancellor of_ Great Britain,
_2 Copies_.
_Lady_ Hardwicke.
_Dr._ Thomas Herring, _Lord Archbishop of_ Canterbury.
_Dr._ Matthew Hutton, _Lord Archbishop of_ York.
_Dr._ Benjamin Hoadley, _Lord Bishop of_ Winchester.
_Miss_ Hall _of_ Upton, _in_ Westham.
_Sir_ Joseph Hankey.
James Hannott, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Edward Harding.
_Mrs._ Harle of Raynham.
_Mr._ John Harris.
_Mr._ Robert Harris.
_Mr._ Peter Hartopp.
William Harvey, _Esq;_
Robert Harward, _Esq;_
_Mr._ John Hatch.
_Mr._ Coen Haverkam.
_Rev._ William Hawkins, _A. M. Fellow of_ Pembroke College, Oxford.
_Mr._ Alexander Hay.
_Rev._ Dr. Hayter, _Archdeacon of_ York.
_Mrs._ Mary Heilman.
_Mr._ William Heron.
Andrew Hill, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Edward Hillersdon.
_Mr._ Roger Hogg.
Robert Holford, _Esq;_
George Holmes, _Esq;_ _F. R. S._
Samuel Horsman, _M. D._
Henry Lenoy Hunter, _Esq;_
_Rev._ Dr. Thomas Hunt, _Canon of_ Christ Church, Oxford.

I.

_Mr._ George Jackson.
Samuel Jebb, _M. D._
Edward Ironside, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Peter Jullian.
William Jones, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ Tho. Juson, _Rector of_ Wanstead.

K.

_Dutchess of_ Kent.
_Mr._ Richard Kee.
Joseph Keeling, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Benjamin Kenedy, _Apothecary at_ Horn Church, Essex.
_Mr._ Thomas King.
_Dr._ William King, _Principal of_ St. Mary’s Hall, Oxford.

L.

Thomas _Duke of_ Leeds.
Thomas _Earl of_ Leicester.
_Countess of_ Leicester.
_Dr._ Samuel Lisle, _Lord Bishop of_ St. Asaph.
_Hon._ William Lyttelton, _one of the Lords of the Treasury_.
_Mr._ Daniel Lambert.
_Mr._ James Leake.
Joseph Letherland, _M. D._
—— Legendre, _Esq;_
David Lewis, _Esq;_
William Lewis, _M. D._
Smart Lethieullier, _Esq;_
_Rev. Dr._ Robert Leyborne, _Principal of_ Alban Hall, Oxford.
_Library of_ Corpus Christi College, Oxford.
_Library of_ Brasen Nose College, Oxford.
_Library of_ Corpus Christi College, Cambridge.
Edward Lilly, _Esq;_
_Mr._ William Lindsay.
Walter Long, _Esq;_
John Loveday of Caversham, _Esq;_
Henry Lowther, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ Lunn, _Rector of_ Elsworth, Cambridgeshire.

M.

Charles _Duke_ of Marlborough.
George _Earl of_ Macklesfield.
_Lord_ Charles Maynard.
_Dr._ Isaac Maddox, _Lord Bishop of_ Worcester.
_Dr._ Matthias Mawson, _Lord Bishop of_ Chichester.
_Mr._ William Macfarland.
_Mr._ Alexander Mackintosh.
_Mr._ Charles Mackintosh.
_Mr._ John Mackintosh.
_Mr._ Alexander Macrabie.
_Mr._ Francis Magnus.
_Rev._ John Mall, _A. M._
_Rev. Dr._ Simon Manningham.
_Mr._ John Manwaring.
Henry March, _Esq;_
John March, _Esq;_
John March, _Jun. Esq;_
_Mr._ Richard Markham.
Robert Marsh, _Esq;_
_Rev._ John Maryon, _LL. B._
_Rev._ Joseph Mather, _D. D. President of_ Corpus Christi College,
Oxford.
_Mr._ Timothy Matthews.
_Sir_ William Maynard, _Bart._
Richard Mead, _M. D._
_Mr._ Thomas Melmoth.
Edward Melward, _M. D._
_Rev. Mr._ Micklebourgh.
_Mr._ Richard Molineux.
_Mr._ William Monke, _2 Copies_.
James Monro, _M. D._
_Hon._ James Montague, _Esq;_
George Montgomerie, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Edward Moore.
_Sir_ Charles Mordaunt, _Bart._
_Mr._ Richard Morhall.
_Rev. Dr._ Moss, _Canon Residentiary of_ Sarum.
_Mr._ James Mount.
Benjamin Moyer, _Esq;_

N.

_Lady_ Newdigate.
Richard Naish, _Esq;_
_Mr._ George Nelson.
_Mr._ Thomas Nelson.
Robert Nesbitt, _M. D._
_Mr._ Gabriel Neve, _5 Copies_.
John Newe, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Richard Newman.
_Rev. Dr._ Nicolls, _Chaplain in Ordinary to his_ Majesty.
George Nodes, _Esq;_
_Mr._ James Selwyn Noke.
_Mr._ Godfrey Noke.
_Mrs._ Dorothy Noke.

O.

Arthur Onslow, _Esq;_ _Speaker of the House of Commons_.
_General_ Oglethorp.
_Mr._ Edmund Orlabeer.
_Mr._ Gustavus Ovey.

P.

Thomas _Earl of_ Pomfret;
John _Earl of_ Portsmouth.
_Countess of_ Portland.
_Lord Viscount_ Palmerston.
_Lady_ Palmerston.
_Dr._ John Potter, _late Lord Archbishop of_ Canterbury.
_Lord Chief Baron_ Parker.
_Mr._ Clement Paillet.
John Paterson, _Esq;_
Robert Paul, _Esq;_
_Rev. Dr._ Pelling.
_Mr._ James Pennett.
_Miss_ Barbara Pepys.
Philip Percivall, _Esq;_
_Rev._ Thomas Persehouse, _A. M. Chaplain to his Grace the Duke of_
Gordon.
_Messieurs_ Philips _and_ Wood.
_Rev. Mr._ Roger Pickering, _2 Copies_.
_Mr._ John Powell.
_Rev. Mr._ John Powell, _of_ Raynham.
Joseph Pratt, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Richard Pratt.
_Mr._ Andrew Pringle.
_Mr._ Arthur Pullinger.
_Mr._ Richard Pyott.

Q.

_Mr._ Thomas Quarme.

R.

_Mr._ Allan Ramsay.
_Mr._ John Ratcliffe.
Andrew Reid, _Esq;_
_Mr._ William Richold.
_Mr._ John Rigg.
_Mrs._ Rigg.
_Mr._ Christopher Roberts.
Hugh Roberts, _Esq;_
_Mr._ William Robertson.
Francis Rock, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Samuel Rossey.
_Mr._ James Rogers.
_Mr._ Giles Rooke.
_Mr._ Robert Rose.
_Rev._ William Rotherie, _A. M._
Thomas Rawstorn, _Esq;_
William Russell _of_ Stubbers, _Esq;_

S.

Anthony _Earl of_ Shaftsbury.
_Dr._ Thomas Seeker, _Lord Bishop of_ Oxford.
_Dr._ Richard Smallbroke, _Lord Bishop of_ Litchfield _and_ Coventry.
_Mr._ David Salomons.
_Lady_ Salter.
_Rev. Dr._ John Savage.
Mayer Schamberg, _M. D._
Isaac Schamberg. _M. D._
_Mr._ Richard Sclater.
_Mr._ Isaac Scott.
_Mr._ Thomas Scott.
_Mr._ John Searle.
George Augustus Selwyn, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Richard Shergold.
_The Hon. Mrs._ Shirley.
_Mr._ Richard Shirley.
_Mr._ James Short.
_Mr._ David Simson.
John Skinner, _Esq;_
Matthew Skinner, _Esq;_
Stephen Skinner, _Esq;_
_Mr._ Smith _of_ Coventry.
William Sotheby, _Esq;_
George Spearman, _Esq;_
_Mr._ John Spencer.
_Rev. Dr._ Stebbing, _Chancellor of_ Sarum.
James Stephens, _M. D._
_Mr._ Edmond Stephens.
_Mr._ John Strutt.
_Mr._ George Stubbs.

T.

Richard _Earl of_ Tilney.
_Dr._ John Thomas _Lord Bishop of_ Peterborough.
_Dr._ Richard Trevor, _Lord Bishop of_ St. David’s.
_Mr._ Abjon. Taylor.
John Temple, _Esq;_ _20 Copies_.
_Mrs._ Temple.
_Mr._ Evans Thomas.
_Mr._ Harry Thompson.
Thomas Tickell, _Esq;_ _2 Copies_.
_Mr._ John Tilly.
_Mr._ John Tinney, _2 Copies_.
_Mr._ Noah Titner.
_Mr._ George Tollet.
_Mrs._ Tollet.
Richard Tonson, _Esq;_
_Mrs._ Touchett.
_Mrs._ Towne, _2 Copies_.
_Miss_ Towne.
Thomas Towers, _Esq;_
_Mr._ William Turpin.

V.

_Sir_ Peter Vandeput.
_Mrs._ Vanrixton.
_Mr._ George Udny.

W.

_Dr._ Joseph Wilcox, _Lord Bishop of_ Rochester.
_Mr._ Samuel Wade.
_Mr._ John Wainwright.
_Mr._ William Walker.
_Mr._ James Wall.
_Mrs._ Walter.
_Mr._ John Ward, _Rhet. Prof. in_ Gresham College.
Richard Warner, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ Langhorn Warren.
_Mr._ Peter Warren.
Philip Carteret Webb, _Esq;_
John Westbroke, _Esq;_
John Wilkes, _Esq;_
_Rev. Dr._ Willson.
William Woolball, _Esq;_
Israel Woollaston, _Esq;_ _2 Copies_.
Daniel Wray, _Esq;_
Matthew Wymondesold, _Esq;_
_Rev. Mr._ John Wyatt _of_ Felsted, Essex.
_Rev. Mr._ Wyatt, _Vicar of_ West Ham, Essex.
James Wytched, _Esq;_

Y.

_Dr._ Yarborough, _Principal of_ Brasen Nose College, Oxford.
_Hon._ Charles Yorke, _2 Copies_.
_Hon._ Philip Yorke.
_Dr._ Young.

TRAVELS IN TURKEY AND BACK TO ENGLAND.

An Account of a journey round the ancient _Ionia_, from _Smyrna_, thro _St. George’s_, _Magnesia_, _Durguthli_, _Sardis_, _Birghée_, _Tyria_, _Ephesus_, and back to _Smyrna_, in the year MDCXCIX.

April xxi.

Eight of our nation having lately designed a visit to the church of _Ephesus_, by name, Messieurs Whalley, Dunster, Coventry, Ashe, Turner, Clotterbooke, Frye, and Chishull, we had first a general meeting, to agree upon what was requisite to the resolution we had taken; at which time Mr. Whalley kindly undertaking the care of our provisions, and the government of our intended journey, we propos’d to make a circuit of our way to _Ephesus_, that so we might have a larger satisfaction in the sight of those delightsome places, for which _Asia Minor_ was always so justly celebrated.

In prosecution of this design we intended to make our first _conáck_ at _Norlícui_, to which place having this morning dispatched our baggage upon mules, under the care of a _janisary_ and two servants, we ourselves set forward about three in the afternoon, with another _janisary_, _dragoman_, servants, and other requisites. Our company completed the number of twenty three light horse. Six or seven other gentlemen of the English factory were pleased to accompany us as far as _Norlícui_, where arriving in less than two hours, we all found a kind and hospitable reception from Mr. Benjamin Jones and his lady. After a short repast our freinds returned back to _Smyrna_, and left us employed in providing for ourselves and horses. This care had now taken up the evening, when it being proposed, that morning and evening prayers should be constantly read to the company during the whole journey, we all readily embraced the motion. Hereupon we immediately put this design in execution, and then pitched upon our lodging.

April xxii.

This morning a quarter before five we leave _Norlícui_, and proceed on _Magnesia_ road in our way to _St. George’s_ village, expecting to see the ceremonies, which the Greek Christians there perform on the twenty third instant, which is the festival of that saint. And having ascended the top of the adjoining hill, we there make an halt for our mules, and take that opportunity of looking back, and enjoying the delightful prospect, which this place afforded us. We had then the gap of _Nymphe_ on our left hand, and village of _Palamútcui_ on our right, which is pleasantly seated on an ascent, under a grove of pine trees; but before us lay extended the whole plain between the hills of _Tartalée_[6] and _Cordilíeu_, being terminated with the view of the _Two Brothers_[7], the city, castle, and bay of _Smyrna_.

We continue our journey over the hill, till arriving at an old burying place, we begin to descend by a paved way to a large and high bridge of stone, built over a small, but clear and purling river. From hence we pass on to the groves of _Jacácui_, which is a village seated on the right hand upon an ascending ground, and fronting the edge of _Tartalée_. Here we again halted, and drank a dish of coffee, partly to wait for our mules, and partly to entertain ourselves with a view of the plain of _Nymphe_, into which we had a narrow prospect between the forementioned village and the ridge of the opposite mountain. After this we ascend a tedious and craggy hill, with which tho we were now considerably fatigued, yet we had still courage enough to reject the proposal, which was there made, of baiting, and taking the advantage of a fair commodious fountain, which flows on our right hand from the top of the hill. We therefore proceed about the space of an hour in tolerable good way, till at the descent of the mountain we encounter a rugged and uneasy passage; the road being either choaked up with loose stones, or else worn into abrupt and descending steps. This obliged us to dismount, and lead our horses down the precipice; where we nevertheless received some little satisfaction, in observing the veins of red and white marble, with which each side of this troublesome way is garnished. At the foot of the hill we cross a rivulet, and quickly after repassing the same, ride from thence strait forward in a covert and narrow bottom, which in less than half an hour leads us into the plains of _Magnesia_. After a short repast in this place we mount our horses, turning to the left out of the road of _Magnesia_; and tho we were now not more than half an hour from our intended _conáck_, yet we ride on by mistake too much to the right hand; till, having advanced beyond the town and castle of _Magnesia_, we come to a Turkish village, where we were directed almost back again to _St. George’s_. Here we arrived about one a clock, and made it our first business to pitch our tent for the use of our servants, whilst we ourselves were received into a little house, which afforded us the convenience of one chamber, and a _sophá_, for lodging.

After diner we took a walk about the village, and visited the low humble church, which is here permitted to the Greek Christians. It has outwardly the marks of no inconsiderable antiquity, and within it is the exact model of the primitive Greek churches; consisting first of the πρόναος or _outward chapel_, then the νάος or _body of the church_, with three passages from the one into the other, and after all a chancel separate from the nave by lattice work. We here observed no other ornaments, than the pictures of _St. George_, the _Virgin Mary_, _St. John_, and _St. Nicholas_, and another of our _Savior_ on the roof of the church, which consists of a regular cupola. Before the altar lay the book of the _Gospels_, with three or four copies of divine service; some containing their ordinary _Liturgy_, and others adapted to peculiar months of the year. The Greeks were now flocking hither to perform their devotions before the picture of _St. George_; and the superstition of a woman was remarkable, who prostrated her little infant at the feet of the saint, and eagerly stroking the picture endeavoured to convey some hidden blessing to the body of the child.

April xxiii.

This morning we mounted about nine a clock, when the Greeks were preparing for the ceremony of the day. It was pleasant to see them flock together to the number of some thousands, being of different sex, age, and quality; but all equally regardless of the dirt and rain, which then fell very plentifully. We followed them on horseback a little mile out of the village to a large turpentine tree, under the shade and covert of which they had placed the saints, which we had before observed in the church; and there celebrated their mass. This was no other, than what is ordinary in the rites of the Greek church; except only, that it seemed to have some particular reference to _St. George_. It may be here proper to observe, that as the priest made two elevations of the elements, the one before, and the other after consecration; the people equally adored them at the former, as well as at the latter[8]. Before the consecration of the wine was completed, the priest mingled a little warm water in the cup, and afterwards put the μαργαρίτης, or _consecrated bread_, therein. All which he, and the deacon who assisted him, received; and after the whole ceremony one of his assistants distributed two loaves of unconsecrated bread[9] in little peices to the people, which they received with as much hurry as superstition. The congregation now break up, and carry back their saints in a tumultuous manner, one still endeavouring to catch them from another; while he that carries them, runs with what speed he can, and often strikes his head with the board, on which they are painted, as a voluntary penance for his sins.

This ceremony ended, we turned aside to satisfy our curiosity with the sight of the famous river _Hermus_, which flows scarce two bow’s shot below the turpentine tree mentioned above. This large and noble river yeilds an entertaining sight, especially when it abates something of its usual fulness. It appears graced on each side with a sandy shelving bank. The neighbouring pastures afford abundance of tamarisk, and on the edge of the river asparagus is very plentiful. It may be observed, that as the poets of old called it the _golden_[10], so the Turks at present call it the _silver streamed Hermus_; either of which names it seems to deserve from that bright and shining sand, which its water washes. But though the sand be clear, yet the water is still thick and muddy[11], and well answers some epithets of that nature, which are bestowed upon it in ancient poetry.

It was now past midday, when we return to the village, and after the refreshment of a diner prepare for our departure towards _Magnesia_. Our way thither lay through the same plain, into which we entered yesterday at one a clock; where the beauty and verdure of this campain countrey made amends for the great rain, which annoyed us all this day, as well at the Greek ceremony, as now in our way to _Magnesia_.

In two hours from _St. George’s_ we begin to enter _Magnesia_, not without a just admiration of its delicious situation at the foot of mount _Sipylus_; from whence it was antiently called _Magnesia ad Sipylum_, to distinguish it from that other, which stood near the river _Meander_[12]. Having rode into the city, we began to be in distress for an house to receive us; for an uncertain recommendation, which we had hitherto over credulously relied on, we now found to have miscarried. This was observed by an _effendi_, who saw us pass under his window, and therefore courteously acquainted us by his servant, that if we wanted accommodations, we might be welcome to his house. We gladly embraced the motion, and were conducted into a garden, where we were afforded the use of a pleasure house, consisting of a large _sophá_ room, a kitchen, and an open _kiosk_, with a beautiful fountain in the middle. The _effendi_ himself came down, and welcomed us to our apartment, adding withall, that if we had any other freind to rely upon, he would not deprive us of a better entertainment; if not, he bid us freely make use of what this place afforded. Returning to his house he presented us with a lamb, and desired to know, if there was any thing else, with which he was capable of obliging us. By our _dragoman_ he likewise informed us, that the _cadí_ of the city was at that time making him a visit, before whom it might not be improper for us to shew ourselves; but at the same time not to come empty handed. According to this motion we waited upon the _cadí_ with two _okes_ of sugar, and as many of coffee. He received us and our present very obligingly; and upon the _effendi’s_ invitation, we there drank a dish of coffee in the company of several Turks, who seemed to be of the better rank, and behaved themselves gentilely, that is, according to the genius of this haughty people, with an agreable mixture of civility and reservedness.

This ceremony performed, we returned to our garden, and there entertained ourselves at supper with just and grateful reflections on the great courtesy and hospitality of our landlord, whole name we had now learnt to be _Mahomet effendi_. His habitation is very pleasant, yet not so much for the splendid furniture of his house, as for that various and diverting prospect, which it commands over the plain of _Hermus_; though indeed this is an advantage, which by reason of the ascending situation of _Magnesia_ is common to the meanest cottage in the city. It seemed strange to us to observe several pieces of painted glass in the windows of our _effendi’s_ house, inscribed in Turkish characters with the name of the proprietor, together with some religious sentences of Mahometan devotion. But we were much more surprized, when we were informed, that it was the manufacture of this place; for it is stained with a beautiful as well as deep and durable colour, and comes up to the perfection of the best, we have seen in England. This gave us occasion to reflect on the different fortune of arts and sciences, which, like men, seem to take delight in shifting their station; for while other arts have now left these places, and traveled westward, this alone in exchange for all the rest seems to have retired into this, and is deplored as lost in Christendom.

April xxiv.

We propose to spend this day at _Magnesia_, in order to observe what may further occur there remarkable. To this end we were favoured with the company of a _janisary_ by one _Mahmút agá_, to whom this morning we made a short visit; he being the person, to whom at first we expected to have been recommended. The _janisary_ conducted us to the two principal _mosques_ of the city, to a religious college of _dervíses_, to a madhouse, and to an old _seraglio_, where the young princes of the Ottoman empire have formerly been educated. At the last of these there remain only the reliques of two or three rich _tiváns_, and a considerable number of stately old cypress trees, to witness the former grandeur of the place. At the madhouse we could observe nothing besides the bare walls of that hospital, and a brass mortar lying in the yard, which seemed to be remarkable for an old Latin inscription, which it bore, signifying that _it was made at Pisa_. The religious college is a fair stone building, consisting of one quadrangle, and that encompassed with a regular cloister, which is supported with pillars of the modern Greek module. The two _mosques_, which we mentioned, are distinguished from the rest, in that they are of royal foundation, an honour which is signified by the two _minarées_ belonging to them; whereas the other eighteen, with which this city is furnished, have but one a piece. Before each of these _mosques_ there is a square and regular area, containing a beautiful fountain in the middle, and enclosed on three sides with cells of religious Turks. The front of the _mosque_ makes the fourth side of the square, and is itself likewise adorned with a spacious portico supported with stately pillars, of which some only are topt with modern capitals. But as the capitals of the rest are of the old Corinthian order, so all the shafts appear plainly to be ancient; some consisting of natural and others of cast artificial marble, but both the one and the other bound near the pedestal with rings of massy brass.

Before we could be admitted into the inside, we were obliged to comply with the zeal of the Turks, who always leave their shoes at the entrance of their _mosques_. Here we found them both much resembling one another, excepting that one was richer than the other; and whereas the roof of the other consisted of five cupolas, the roof of this was regularly contracted into one. We had now the liberty to view several copies of their _Alcoran_, and other books of Mahometan prayers, all curiously written and adorned with golden figures. The windows are furnished with excellent painted glass, full of flower work and religious inscriptions; and from the roof hangs a multitude of lamps, together with bright balls contrived to reflect the light, all of them well ranged in a beautiful and artificial manner.

In each of the royal _mosques_ we further observed a splendid _kiblé_, which is a part separate from the body of the _mosque_, and answering to the altar of our Christian churches; it is adorned with a rich floor and gilded roof, together with carving and mosaic work on each side, but more particularly in the front, which is contrived to face _Mecca_. Immediately to the right hand of the _kiblé_ stands a lofty pulpit, being fourteen steps high, and consisting of a portal, rails, and canopy, all of wrought marble. One thing was remarkable as well in these _mosques_, as in that which we afterwards saw at _Ephesus_, though we know not whether it has any mystical reference to the Turkish superstition; it is a nich in the front of the _kiblé_, on each side of which stands a fine slender pillar, hewn out of one entire stone, made without capital or pedestal, but so fixed within the work both above and below, that it remains moveable, and is turned about by the hand at pleasure.

This sight of _Magnesia_ was our employment before diner, but in the afternoon we all attempted to ascend the castle hill on foot; which we quickly found to be a more difficult and painful task, than we at first imagined. The way was inexpressibly steep and craggy, and cost us an hour’s labour, though we made all possible speed; nor after our return could we blame the discretion of one of our companions, who thought fit to retire about the midway. However having at length conquered the ascent, our toil was well rewarded with the surprizing prospect of the city, and adjacent plain; in the latter of which we could distinguish the whole course of the _Hermus_ for many miles together, as also the places where the _Amnis Phrygius_, or _Hyllus_, joins it[13].

The fabric of the whole castle is very strong, and the advantage of a hill, which is on all sides a mile high, must have rendered it impregnable, in an age which knew not the use of gunpowder. It was formerly fortified with a considerable number of great guns, which are now removed to the new castle, which defends the bay of _Smyrna_. Two only remain on a bastion, that fronts the city; on both which we were sorry to see the eagles of the Roman empire. No other apartment of the castle is now kept locked, except a dungeon, in which there were twelve prisoners, lately sent thither by _Osmánogli_. A sight of these miserable wretches we desired of the _agá_, nor was he so scrupulous as to deny it us. The same _agá_ likewise shewed us within the precincts of the castle a poor Christian church, dedicated to the memory of _St. John_; where the Greeks meet upon the day of his feast, and are at the constant charge of two lamps, which burn there throughout the year. We had read and heard of a collection of Roman arms, reserved somewhere in this castle; tho being upon the place, nothing of this nature occurred to us. But _Solymán effendi_, a most courteous and obliging person, whom we visited this evening, as being the next neighbour, as well as brother of our landlord, assured us, that having many years since had the curiosity to ascend the castle hill, he then saw under ground the collection which we spake of, consisting of headpieces, breastplates, shields, and the like.

The mountainous parts about _Magnesia_ were antiently famous for the production of the loadstone[14]; tho indeed it is disparaged by _Pliny_[15], and accounted less attractive, than that of other places. However this probably was the city, from whence, as _Lucretius_ says, that stone took the name of _magnet_[16]; as from the whole country of _Lydia_ the touchstone likewise was called _lapis Lydius_[17]. This hint gave us the curiosity to carry a sea compass up the castle hill, where we had the satisfaction to see it point to different quarters, as we then placed it upon different stones, and quickly after intirely to lose its whole virtue; two effects which are natural to the magnetic needle, when injured by the nearness of other bodies impregnated with the same quality.

Late in the evening we were now preparing for repose, and endeavouring to forget the fatigue of the castle hill; when _Solymán effendi_, having laid aside the badges of his character, and put on a more familiar temper, returned our visit. We doubted not from the change of his habit, and the unseasonableness of the hour, but he came to break a Mahometan commandment, and _steal his kief_ (as the Turks pleasantly express it) in the juice of the forbidden grape[18]. This was a tedious and ungrateful task, with which nevertheless, by reason of his own and his brother’s great civility, some of our company were forced to comply. Nor had the wine he freely drank its desired effect, till towards two a clock in the morning.

April xxv.

We begin to rise by five this morning, and after dispatching our baggage take leave of _Mahomet effendi_, to whose singular humanity and hospitality we had hitherto been so much obliged. As we were riding thro the city, it was pleasant to recollect something of the ancient history of this place, whose present state we had seen the day before. It there occurred to us, that this was that _Magnesia_, which of all the Asian cities[19] made the first submission to the Roman arms, after the defeat of _Antiochus_ by _Scipio_. This likewise was that _Magnesia_, which entered into a league offensive and defensive with the city of _Smyrna_ in the reign of _Seleucus_ son of _Antiochus Theus_, whereby the inhabitants of the one were mutually made free of the other city; and whereas public monuments of this confederacy were by agreement of both parties to be erected in different places, one of them, which was set up by the _Smyrneans_, is now to be seen in the gallery at _Oxford_, inscribed on a large flat marble pillar[20].

There now scarce occur any reliques of antiquity in _Magnesia_, except that we observed several Ionic and Corinthian pillars in the court of an old _mosque_, held in great veneration by the Turks for the burial of _Hasánogli_, a person famous in the history of that nation. Over one of the entrances into the same court there is to be seen a broken inscription of an antient heathen temple, tho too high to be now legible; and on a stone step, placed before the principal _mosque_ of the city, we could read among other decayed words ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩ. The following inscription likewise is of no contemptible antiquity, which we found on a stone now lying in the staircase of the abovementioned _Solymán effendi_.

ΣΤΑΤΙΩ ΚΩΔΡΑΤΩ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΩ[21] ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΔΙΟ-
ΓΝΙΤΟΥ ΕΠΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΕΑΥΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ
ΙΔΙΟΙΣ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙΣ ΜΗΔΕΝΙ ΔΕ ΕΞΕΣΤΩ ΑΠΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΩΣΑΙ
ΑΥΤΟ ΕΚ ΤΟΥ ΓΕΝΟΥΣ ΜΟΥ ΕΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΙΣ ΑΠΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΩΣΗ
ΥΠΕΥΘΥΝΟΣ ΕΣΤΩ ΕΙΣ ΤΟΝ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΦΙΣΚΟΝ Χ. Ρ. ϛ.

The said _effendi_ not only civilly informed us of this stone, but when we had transcribed the words, he profered to send it after us to _Smyrna_; adding, that if it was any piece of sanctity, he was unwilling it should remain there to be trampled under foot.

Designing from hence for _Durguthli_, we continue our journey under the foot of _Sipylus_, which about two hours from the city ends in a stupendous precipice, consisting of a naked massy stone, and rising perpendicularly almost a furlong high. It was not a little surprizing, as we rode along under the foot of this hill, to observe a certain cliff of the rock, representing an exact nich and statue, with the due shape and proportion of an human body. For _Sipylus_ being the seat of the transformation of the unhappy _Niobe_[22], there was ground of imagining, that we had either met with her statue, or with that which was the first occasion of the fable; at least it was not improbable, that this was the work of some antient inhabitants of this place, who pleased themselves in fashioning the natural rock into such a figure, as might preserve the tradition of this celebrated poetic fiction.

Not far from hence we begin to leave the mountain on our right hand, having the stream of the _Hermus_ in view on the left; and at a large distance before us the snowy top of the mountain _Tmolus_. Our road now lay thro a verdant and delightful plain, inriched by many advantages of nature, and not negligently manured by the inhabitants. About the fourth hour of this day’s journey we passed a bridge, erected over a large river; which, as those of the country informed us, is now called _Niphti_, or _Nymphe_, and may probably be the _Cryos_ mentioned by _Pliny_, as one of the streams that feed the _Hermus_[23]. From this bridge the road lies thro a less fertile plain, till within the neighbourhood of _Durguthli_ it is again better cultivated, and appropriated to the production of cottons. Near our entrance into the town we cross a broad and sandy chanel, which in the winter season conveys no inconsiderable current into the _Hermus_. We had here no other to rely upon, than the accommodations of a public _kane_, where, after we had fixed our lodgings, we found that we had arrived in six hours from _Magnesia_; tho an hour is to be deducted for the rests, which we were obliged to make for the security of our mules.

_Durguthli_ is a town purely of Turkish fabric, and therefore has nothing to entertain the curiosity of any traveler, besides the management of cotton wool; which is here prepared in great abundance, and so transmitted to the market of _Smyrna_. As to this we observed, that they first sift it from the dust and other refuse, which it contracts in gathering, in a large wicker wheel; after this they separate the wool from the cod, in which it grows; and at last they work it betwixt a wooden and iron roller, which spinning upon one another in a rapid motion draw in the wool, and leave the seed behind.

Walking up and down about the limits of our _kane_, we were accosted by a Turk, who spake good Italian. He had been many years a slave in _Legorn_, where he was a witness to the riches and splendor of Italy, and other parts of Christendom. This gave him occasion to express a just indignation against the haughty ignorance of the Turks; who, tho they want all advantages of art, and appearance of true magnificence, yet have the vanity to despise other nations, who enjoy both to a great perfection. In other discourse with an Armenian priest we were informed of a church, which by a peculiar grant of the _Grand Signior_ that nation had newly founded in _Durguthli_. This was an instance, which seemed to us observable; for tho Christianity is tolerated in Turkey, yet they hold it inconsistent with their law to permit the erection of any new churches, and allow only the liberty of repairing old ones.

We parted in the close of the evening, and repaired in good health to our respective lodgings. But about two in the morning one of our company awaked under an indisposition, which by degrees grew into a severe and dangerous sickness; tho by timely opening a vein, and after that enjoying a little repose, he recovered to the great satisfaction of the whole company. However this discouraged us from proceeding, till another night’s rest should confirm his health. Being thus detained a day at _Durguthli_, we were informed of some antiquities to be seen among the Armenian graves, on a mount adjoining to the town; whither when we had repaired, we found a curious piece of _basso relievo_, brought, as they said, from _Sardis_. But no ancient inscriptions appeared there, except these imperfect words on a marble tombstone.

.. ΥΡΗΛΙΩ ΚΟΤΤ ... Μ ... ΣΑ ΑΛΕΞΙΝΟΟΥ ... Ω ΕΚΤ .
ΔΙΑΤΑΓΗΣ ..... ΚΑΡΜΟΥ ΤΩ ΙΔΙΩ ΦΙΛΩ ... ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗ

April xxvii.

Rising early this morning all of us, God be thanked, in perfect health, we still resolve to enlarge our circuit; whence Mr. Coventry and Mr. Frye apprehending too long a journey, determined to return to _Smyrna_. The remaining part of our company proceed by break of day in the road for _Sardis_. Just before we arrive at the fountain on our right hand, about half an hour from our _conáck_, lies the village of _Ishmaeljá_. And in an hour and an half from thence we observe _Urgánlui_ on the left. We continue our journey thro a spatious and fertile plain, curiously beset on each side the road with variety of round hillocks, which from their number, figure, and situation, in so level a campain, appear plainly to be artificial. They are undoubtedly the work of one or more numerous armies; but whether they were at first designed to bury their heaps of slain[24] (which was the original of those barrows[25], that occur in many plains of England) or whether they were erected as thrones before the pavilion of the general, which was usual in the Roman camp[26], is not easy to determine.

About the fourth hour crossing a small river we have the village of _Baricle_ on the left hand, and larger than that, the village of _Achmetléer_ on the right. Not far from hence the road divides into two paths for _Sardis_. The lower of these we chose, tho declining a little too much to the left hand, and so passing by a few cottages, which are called by the name of _Zericle_, we arrive in seven hours at _Sardis_, one of which is now likewise to be deducted for the stay, which our mules occasioned.

Instead of that _Sardis_, which antiently was the seat of the kings of _Lydia_, afterwards in great renown, under the Persian, Grecian, and Roman Empires, and at last honoured with the title of a Metropolitan Christian church; we now find in the same place, at the foot of mount _Tmolus_, a small Turkish village by the name of _Sart_. We here had the liberty of a ruinous inconvenient _kane_, erected in this place for the service of _caraváns_ from Persia; but we much rather embraced the opportunity of pitching our tents under the covert of a few plane trees, which spread a cool and grateful shade upon the bank of _Pactólus_. This river is constantly mentioned as rising in _Tmolus_, and washing the Walls of _Sardis_, particularly it is said by _Herodotus_ to run thro the very market place of the ancient city[27]. Its chanel does not now appear to be considerable, yet it deserved our particular notice for the fame of its golden streams; a story celebrated not more by poets[28] than historians, the latter of whom have imagined this to be the treasure, whence _Croesus_ and his ancestors collected that mighty wealth.