Chapter C: IVL. Cre. S. Caen. S. Miles (1)

XII L. VIXIT ANNOS XXXV
MILITAVIT ANNIS XV FL CASTVS
FRATER ET PRIMVS HERES EX TESTA
MENTO IVSSVS POSVIT

February xiv.

We set out by eight a clock this morning, and at an hour’s distance from the city once more cross the _Hyllus_ at the meeting of two opposite hills, which shut in the plains of _Thyatira_. Hence we pass thro a forest to _Gelemba_, an hour before which place occur caves with square and regular doors cut out of solid rocks. At _Gelemba_ we lodge in the great _kane_, by the door of which at the distance of ten or twelve yards runs the famous _Caicus_. Here we drank a pleasant sort of Turkish liquor, made of grapes steeped in water with flower of mustard seed.

February xv.

By break of day we set forward, and in one hour’s travel begin to mount the foot of _Temnus_, a low but large and difficult mountain, and at the same place cross the first branch of the _Caicus_, not far from its fountain. We pass the rest of this day thro a stony road on the _Temnus_, and upon the same mountain six hours from our _conáck_ lodge at the unpleasant _Kurugelchíck_; where we were joined by two Turks, _Mustaphá_ and _Chalíl_, who accompanied us to _Adrianople_.

February xvi.

We travel still over the _Temnus_, and on our right hand discover a large open vale on the top of the mountain, rich and well cultivated. In somewhat more than six hours we had passed the _Temnus_, and enter into a rich plain extended all along the backside of _Ida_, now _Cordág_; at the foot of which, about four miles distant from the road we descry the agreable seat of _Balihísar_. From this side of _Ida_ thro a rich and fertile campain flows the river _Aesépus_, now called _Simow_ by the Turks, which we cross by an old bridge at the village of _Mandahóra_, and there take our _conáck_ in a large and convenient _kane_; which is more to be noted for its seven large pillars of course porphyry, now employed to support the roof of this barbarous edifice, but might possibly once stand in some fabric of antient _Troy_, from whence _Mandahóra_ is distant about ten hours.

February xvii.

By eight a clock we set forward from _Mandahóra_, leaving the _Aesépus_ to surround those hills on our right hand, whilst we proceed a shorter way, over small hills and dales, to meet it again in six hours and a half at _Susegierlíck_, where we were entertained in the public _kane_ with excellent pike taken in that river.

February xviii.

We begin to bend our course more directly towards the _Hellespont_, and in order thereto proceed over a tract of gentle mountains, which _Homer_ calls πόδα νείατον Ἴδης[99]; now frequented with wild beasts, but pleasant for the prospect they afford us on our right hand, whilst we pursue with our eye the whole course of the _Aesépus_ almost as far as _Mihalíck_, where it enters the sea. In three hours we pass by an old village and adjoining castle called _Minyás_, which name it likewise lends to the neighbouring plain and lake; the former of which I take to have been antiently called the plains of _Zelia_, and the latter the λίμνη Δασκυλίτις[100]. Not far from hence flows a river by the modern name of _Mulvetelée_, passing into the adjoining lake; after which are small hills and pleasant villages, till in five hours we descend into the plains of _Zelia_, which are pleasant, fertile, and well cultivated. Here we pass thro large fields of wallnut trees, which bring us in five hours and a half to the banks of a fair and broad river; which I take to be the _Tarsius_ of the antients, and by the Turks is now vulgarly called _Tarza_. We were here obliged to ferry over with our horses three together in a boat, the stream being not securely fordable. In one hour and half from thence, thro a level and verdant campain to the left of the above mentioned lake, we come to _Humumlée_, and there _conáck_. The lake we leisurely viewed from our _conáck_, and could compute it to be about thirty miles in circumference, being always full of water, and stored with plenty of fish, among which it then furnished us with delicious pikes. We were here informed, that the river, we lately passed, empties it self into this lake, from whence by a new chanel it takes its course to _Mihalíck_, where together with the _Aesépus_ it soon after falls into the sea. And directly beyond this lake we then beheld the fair exalted hills of _Cyzicus_, and the _Peninsula Cyzicena_.

February xix.

By six this morning we leave _Humumlée_, where we had been lodged not inconveniently in a farmer’s house, and riding thro a continued campain begin to view the snowy head of _Ida_. But in some time we again lose sight of it, and in five hours from our setting out approach to _Bozacgée_, seated in the _Adrastian_ plains[101]; and at the same place to a large and fair river, by the Turks named _Bocléw_[102], which we leave on our left hand, till in two hours we cross it by a dangerous wooden bridge near _Sorrícui_[103], and there _conáck_.

February xx.

By six we leave _Sorrícui_, and proceed a little way, where a fair is held at _St. Georgetide_, which continues for the space of ten days, and is much frequented. We then mount a high and steep hill, which bears a stately and extended wood of oak; the lower shrubs of which produce a quantity of galls, and at the roots of these the ground is overspread with an excellent and well scented sage. On the top of this hill in three hours we have a near prospect of the sea, and isle of _Marmora_, with one side of the _Peninsula_ of _Cyzicus_. By the fifth hour we begin to descend on the other side into a pleasant and green plain, and by the seventh arrive at _Dimotico_, a market town, vulgarly so called from the corruption, as I suppose, of the antient _Didymotichos_. At this place occurs a moderate river with a wooden bridge; and an hour beyond the town a large one with a fair bridge of stone, built by the munificence of _Sultan Mahomet_ the fourth. Here are to be observed the marks of a royal way, denoted by two equal and regular barrows on each side, by which lies the _Grand Signior’s_ road to the wars. Hitherto our way had all along surrounded mount _Ida_, which often favoured us with the sight of its hoary head, and many rivers flowing from its watry bowels. We had now an hour farther to reach our _conáck_ at _Pismetlée_; but losing our way, we were conducted by a cowherd (who was cudgel’d into this civility by _Mustaphá bey_) to a small pleasant village an hour farther in our journey, where being obliged to force our reception, we were thereupon lodged in the _mosque_ of the place. This will appear an instance very singular in Turkey, and was looked upon as an abomination by the _imám_ of the parish; who could not enter that place of his worship on the following morning, without saluting us three times with _Stifer Alláh_, that is, _God forbid_.

February xxi.

In an hard road betwixt barren hills we travel this day towards _Jerdáck_, a village which is the _scale_ for passing the _Hellespont_, seated within half an hour of the antient _Lampsacus_. This road led us within four hours to the shore of the _Propontis_, along which we proceed four hours farther to our _conáck_, where the sea contracts it self into that strait chanel, betwixt _Lampsacus_ and _Callipolis_. Here we find a large _kane_, in which are about twelve antient marble pillars, each of one fair intire stone, some round, others chanel’d, and of various orders; all which I conclude to have been undoubted reliques of the antient _Lampsacus_. In the yard of the _mosque_ at _Jerdáck_ I took the two following Greek inscriptions

ΑΓΑΘΗ ΤΥΧΗ
ΤΙ. ΚΛΑΥΔΙΟΝ ΦΛΩΡΟΝ ΠΥΚΤΗΝ ΝΕΙΚΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΕΝΔΟΞΩΣ
ΠΑΙΔΩΝ ΑΓΩΝΑ ΤΩΝ ΜΕΓΑΛΩΝ ΤΥΧΕΙΩΝ ΑΓΩΝΟΘΕΤΟΥΝ-
ΤΟΣ Γ. ΙΟΥΛ. ΕΛΕΩΝΕΩΣ ΥΠΟ ΠΑΙΔΟΤΡΙΒΗΝ ΚΛΑΥΔ.

ΚΥΡΟΣ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΟΥ ΤΗΝ ΤΑΦΗΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΝ ΕΝΑΓΙΣΜΟΝ
ΤΩ ΠΑΤΡΙ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΩ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΟΥ

February xxii.

By nine this morning we transport ourselves and horses by boat from _Jerdáck_ to _Gallipoli_, and in three quarters of an hour arrive by God’s blessing on the European shore; where we bid a joyful farewel to that of Asia, after a severe sea sickness, which I endured in the passage. At which time three years and three months had passed, since my first arrival at _Smyrna_.

_Callipolis_, now called _Gallipoli_, was taken by the Turks in the reign of _Orchán_, and _anno Hegirae_ 760. It is now a city considerably large, but thinly peopled, and decayed in commerce; tho it still plentifully enjoys that of cottons and aniseed. It stands upon a blunt point of land, betwixt two small open bays, of which that to the north is exceeding pleasant, and has on its green banks two fair Turkish sepulchers, the newer and more magnificent being that of _Sinán pashá_. Adjoining is a _kane_ of very gentile fashion, with a _mosque_, and other instances of charity. The southern bay has the walls of the antient arsenal, for the lodging of stores and galleys, which formerly wintered in this place. Besides which the vast rocks, which lie before the town, are very remarkable; being a strange but natural mixture of sand, pebbles, and cockleshells, of which materials all the houses of the town are built. Here I saw a stone figure of our _Savior’s_ baptism in the river _Jordan_, with another of the _B. Virgin_, carved contrary to the practice of the Greek church in _basso relievo_.

February xxiii.

We remain at _Gallipoli_ this and the following day, expecting Mr. Farington’s _caraván_. The breadth of the _Hellespont_ is here much inlarged, which at _Lampsacus_, according to _Xenophon_, was but fifteen furlongs[104].

February xxv.

We set forward from _Gallipoli_ in a smooth and pleasant road, which by degrees ascending begins quickly to show us the narrow _isthmus_ of the _Chersonésus_, with the _Propontis_ on one side, and the gulph of _Cardia_, or _Sinus Melas_, on the other, the extreme neck of land being scarce three miles broad. Our road now inclines to the left hand, and so brings us round the blunt end of the gulph, into which flows the fair river _Melas_, which about the fourth hour from _Gallipoli_ we cross at a regular and well built stone bridge. Hence we have a stony and mountainous way to _Allalmalée_, a Christian village, where we _conáck_. Before bed time we had here the company of the poor ignorant παπᾶς, who among other things told us, that he lately gave the bishop of _Heracléa_ seventy dollars to ordain his son a priest.

February xxvi.

We depart from _Allalmalée_, and in two hours and a half arrive at _Malgara_, where I observed a Turkish drink called _bozók_, being a whitish thick beer made of millet seed. This is a large and pleasant town, abounding in the production of honey, and bears the name of a lady, who redeemed its security from plunder for a vast sum of money, from the first Turkish conqueror. It is now reserved as a place of banishment for the prime ministers of the empire. We proceed homeward till about the sixth hour of this day’s journey, when having lost my watch the preceding evening, we searched the company upon some suspicion we had entertained of a _catergée_, who yesterday joined us; and accordingly we find it concealed in the corner of his breeches. In ten hours we arrive at _Derrícui_ a small Christian village, and there _conáck_. I must not omit, that this day we discovered to the left the mountains of _Samothrace_, the course of the _Hebrus_, and more forward the snowy top of _Rodope_.

February xxvii.

In two hours from our _conáck_ we arrive at _Uzunkuprée_, a town which has its name from the fair adjoining bridge of an hundred and sixty six arches, and by _Saidino_ is called _Ponte d’Erchiene_[105]. We were the full space of fifteen minutes in passing this bridge, and towards the further end, which is the most conspicuous part, we observed ten or twelve heads carved on the battlements, that enclose the bridge, in memory, as it is said, of so many chief workmen strangled by _Sultan Morát_ the first (who founded it) for building it so narrow, as not to admit of two carts at once. In two hours farther we arrive at the sandy and delicious banks of _Hebrus_, just opposite to the city and castle of _Dimotico_, where _Sultan Morát_ began to seat the palace of his emperial residence. From hence we pass along the bank of that slow, but then plentiful river[106], and after two hours and a half take up our lodgings in a cold inconvenient hovel at _Elchilée_.

February xxviii.

By five this morning we proceed in a level sandy road on the banks of the _Hebrus_, where we observe a vast quantity of wild fowl, and by nine arrive at the palace of my Lord Paget in _Adrianople_, being filled with admiration at the beauty of the river, campain, and prospect of so fair a city.

_Adrianople_ is seated on the _Hebrus_, at the place where it receives the _Tunsa_ and the _Harda_. It is a fair and compact city, about five miles in circumference, rising gently on the side of a small hill from the banks of the _Hebrus_ and _Tunsa_[107]. What is there remarkable, may be reduced to the _seraglio_, _mosques_, and _sharshées_. The _seraglio_ is built in a flat and verdant plain, at the foot of the city betwixt the _Hebrus_ and _Tunsa_, but more immediately upon the banks of the latter. It is surrounded almost on all sides with a thick grove of beech and elm, which within form the resemblance of a park, and outwardly yeild a grateful prospect, in regard that the countrey about it is almost wholly naked of wood. A square wall encloses the fabric, which is truly mean, and of a confused intricate figure; but, as is commonly said, well contrived for convenience. The matter is plain free stone, and the covering of lead. Nothing can be more grateful to the eye, than the sight of this level verdant situation; and yet in regard of its lowness, and too near approach to the rivers, nothing more unwholesome. It seems to stand in the very same place, where _Constantine_ gave that famous defeat to _Licinnius_[108].

The _mosques_ observable in this place are those called _Eskijamí_, the _Three Sheríffs_, _Sultan Bajazet_, and _Sultan Selím_. The first of these is so called from its antiquity, which _Morát_ the first here established, and converted to that profane use from a Christian church, of which it still retains the intire figure. The second is to be observed for the abundance of porphyry, which appears in the fabric, and the various architecture of the four _minarées_, together with many serpentine pillars, which support the porticos of the area. The third likewise has many serpentine pillars round the area, and those of interrupted veins and distinct materials, which seem to persuade one, that they are of a cast substance. But the greatest beauty of this city, and as some think of the whole empire, is the _mosque_ of _Sultan Selím_ the second, built by him out of materials brought chiefly from the ruins of _Famagusta_, in the island of _Cyprus_. Yet in regard that the area is not square, nor supported with so rich or correspondent pillars, excepting four that adorn the front, I esteem it inferior to the two noble _mosques_ of _Solymán_ and _Achmét_ at _Constantinople_. Otherwise it is a fair structure, built with great conformity of its several parts, and like a theatre consisting of one stately room ending upwards in a cupola. It is adorned with four regular and beautiful _minarées_, each of which has two hundred forty four stairs leading into the uppermost balcony. For in each of them are three balconies, that imitate the capitals of pillars, between which the whole body of the column is regularly chanel’d. One of these is famous for having three staircases winding one within another, of which one opens into the three balconies, another into the two highest, and the third only into the last of all. From thence we once took the opportunity of viewing the several parts and precincts of the city, the plat of the _seraglio_, the course of the rivers, and the face of the countrey below, with the busy care of the several mortals, wandering like so many ants on that spot of earth then subject to our eye. Here I could not but pleasantly recollect those _templa serena_ of _Lucretius_, _L._ i. ℣. 8.

_Despicere unde queas alios, passimque videre_
_Errare, atque viam palantes quaerere vitae._

Adjoining to _Sultan Bajazet_ I was shewn a madhouse or bedlam, which is a noble building of a round figure, covered with a regular cupola, and having a large area in the middle, and therein a cistern of water; but conveniently divided all round into six chambers made archwise, and opening on one side into the area. Here were kept three madmen, all furnished with clean mats, and tied close down to the pavement by an iron chain fastned about their neck for greater security.

The _sharshées_ are two long and fair porticos, walled with brick or stone on each side, and securely arched over head, so as to resist fire. The shorter of these adjoins to _Sultan Selím_, and is appropriated to the shoemakers: but the other, being about four hundred paces long and six broad, is filled with shops of various trades; all which are shallow niches in the wall of equal hight and breadth, and in general so regularly contrived, that the whole represents a beautiful and rich gallery.

The whole way from _Gallipoli_ to this place lies thro a campain rich and fertile, abounding with villages, and those almost all Christian. However it wants the lovely fountains, frequent woods, and pretious shrubs of Asia.

March iv.

Sir Robert Sutton, successor to my Lord Paget in his embassy to this port, who arrived at _Adrianople_ about Christmas last, had now his audience of the grand _vizír_. My Lord Paget, with the retinue of his own family, and the English merchants now resident in this place, repaired to the palace of his successor about twelve a clock. At the same time came thither from the _vizír_, the _chiaush bashá_, with an horse richly furnished for Sir Robert, and about thirty others for the use of his retinue. From hence the two ambassadors conducted by the _chiaush bashá_, and attended by a large retinue of the English nation, proceeded to the palace of the _vizír_. Upon their arrival into the room of audience, the _vizír_ soon entered, supported by his _kayá_ and the _reis effendi_, and congratulated with acclamations from his whole attendance. He seated himself in a corner of the _sophá_, and the ambassadors sat before him on two stools. After the old ambassador had presented his successor, _Mauro Cordato_, who is master of the ceremonies, and _dragoman_ to the _Ottoman Port_, gave and returned the ordinary forms. Then Sir Robert delivered his Majesty’s letter to the _vizír_, after which both ambassadors were treated with coffee, sherbet, and incense, and the whole ceremony at length concluded with the distribution of about twenty four _caftans_. The _vizír_ is about sixty years of age, of short stature, and a meek serene countenance; tho at this time somewhat moved with concern for the loss of his only son of two years of age. At this ceremony he appeared in the _selimée_ turbant, which is a cap of state, and was conceived to do an honour to the audience. It resembles the form of a sugar loaf, only indented at the bottom on four sides, and bound obliquely with a gold ribban.

March x.

Sir Robert Sutton had his audience of the _Grand Signior_ at the _seraglio_ of this place, whither he rode about seven a clock on a horse of state, conducted as before by the _chiaush bashá_, and attended by all the gentlemen of the English nation. At these audiences it is the custom of the Turks to show somewhat of the discipline of their soldiery, together with the process of their justice at the _diván_. And therefore so soon as his Excellency entered at the first gate of the _seraglio_, into a large and green court, some companies of the _janisaries_, ranged on the opposite side, ran with a great but orderly agility, to seize several dishes of their broth, placed at equal distances on the area of the court; after which they were remanded by the _churbegées_, who ran among the ranks, and instead of words of command ordered them by a certain gentle hissing into their respective stations. During this entertainment his Excellency advanced towards the _diván_, which is an oblong ground room, opening on the front into a gallery, by which only it is separated from the court above mentioned. It is surrounded on three sides with benches, covered with embroidered silk, and the floor is laid with carpets; otherwise it has no ornaments, nor embellishments of the walls. On the middle of the principal bench, where it faces the door, sat the grand _vizír_, having one crimson cushion under him, and another to support his feet, by which only he is distinguished from other ministers of the _diván_. On his right hand upon the same bench sat the _caimekám_, and _Abdollá pashá_ son of the late _Mustaphá Kioprili_; but on his left hand the two _cadileskérs_, the one for Europe, and the other for Asia. The two side benches were took up on the right hand by the _nishangeé bashá_, and on the left by the _tefterdár_. Sitting in this order, and maintaining a profound silence, they dispatched several causes of _meum_ and _tuum_, in the sight of the ambassador and his retinue; in which there was no other process, than the reading several succinct cases to the _vizír_, together with the depositions of the witnesses, upon which he pronounced his verdict, and the parties were immediately dismissed. But in these, and other affairs of the like kind, the _reis effendi_ and _teskergée bashá_ also assist; the former of which acts as solicitor and secretary to the _diván_, and the latter is the gentleman usher, who carries all messages and papers betwixt the _Grand Signior_ and the _vizír_. In the mean time the _Grand Signior_, tho he is never personally present in the _diván_, yet he is at his pleasure a witness and overseer of all that passes there, by means of a lattice window, which looks out of his apartments just over the seat of the _vizír_. These ceremonies ended, there were brought in divers tables and placed before the _vizír_, the _caimekám_, the _nishangée_, and the _tefterdár_; all which being presently furnished with various Turkish dishes, the ambassador sat down to eat with the _vizír_, and several gentlemen of the English nation with the other ministers. After this repast (the _vizír_ having first demanded leave for an audience) the ambassador and all the rest of the English gentlemen retired into a distant part of the gallery, which fronts the chamber of the _diván_, and other lodgings of the _seraglio_, where they were all vested, and then sat down in order till the _diván_ arose, and the several ministers proceeded to the apartments of the _Grand Signior_, the latter preceding, and the _vizír_ closing the procession. Soon after his Excellency was called to take his audience, to which himself, and four gentlemen, who were permitted to follow him, were conducted by two _capigées_, who led them on each hand, in a rude and hasty manner. By these they were thus carried from the outward gallery into a square paved court, and from thence into a railed entry, that landed them immediately in a ground room, which was the presence chamber of the _Grand Signior_. It was a small room, of a square figure, lined on the sides and floor with crimson silk, and that embellished with an high and thick embroidery of golden branches. In one corner was erected an high _sophá_ about two yards square, adorned with four rich cushions, and an answerable _minderá_, all of which were in a manner intirely covered with embroidery of pearl. On this sat the _Grand Signior_, regarding the ambassador in an oblique posture, and sinking so deep in the _minderá_, that his thighs and legs were not to be distinguished. The other ornaments of the room were two windows, each furnished with two cushions, answerable to those of the _sophá_; and more remarkable than all the rest, a royal chimney cloth, embroidered like the covering of the floor and walls, but enriched beyond these with various large jewels set in the corners of the work, such as pearls, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and the like. The ambassador stood about three yards distance from the _Grand Signior_, where he delivered himself to _Mauro Cordato_ in Italian, and he interpreted his credentials immediately to the _Sultan_. But his Majesty’s letter being handed to _Mauro Cordato_ by his Excellency, it was by him delivered to the _nishangée_, by him to _Abdollá pashá_, and by him to the _vizír_, who laid it before the _Grand Signior’s_ feet. Upon this the _Sultan_ directed himself to the _vizír_ in these words: “We esteem the King of England as our freind. On our part, all due regard shall be had to the sacred capitulations made with him; and accordingly be it your care to see them maintained.” This said, the ambassador was dismissed the audience room, with the four gentlemen, who only were permitted to attend the ceremony. Upon which all the English immediately mounted at the outward gate of the _seraglio_, and there stood in rank and order to see the _janisaries_ dismissed; which is done in a regular but hasty manner, and seems to resemble the _decursio_ of the Roman army. After this the several Ministers of the _diván_, begining with the least, and ending with the _vizír_, made a pompous procession on horses of state, adorned with broad guilded bridles, and housing of the French fashion, wrought with nothing but entire thread of gold. After these followed his Excellency on an horse and furniture of the same quality, and so returned with the attendance of several _chiaushes_, and all those of the English nation, to his own palace.

The habit of the several ministers of the _diván_ is exactly of the same form with the _caftans_, which they ordinarily present; but the matter is either silk, or fine grogran, fur’d with sable. Their turbant is that called the _mugevezée_; but that of the _Grand Signior_ is the same with the common _agás_, only distinguished by three small, but fine and curious black feathers, with waves of ash colour, being the outmost feathers on the wing of the _arguron_, a rare Muscovian bird. The present made by the ambassador to the _Grand Signior_ consisted of sixty pieces of different materials, as cloth, silk, sattin, velvet, and the like, all of them at the charge of the company.

March xviii.

My Lord Paget had this day his audience of leave of the grand _vizír_, where, besides the ordinary forms and ceremonies of coffee, sherbet, incense, and _caftans_, the letters of the _vizír_ and _Sultan_ were brought in by the _reis effendi_; and being by him reverently kissed and delivered to the _vizír_, were by the _vizír_ kissed in the same manner, and delivered to the ambassador, by whom they were kissed again, and committed to Mr. Paget, who bore them respectfully on his two hands during the whole procession to his Excellency’s palace. The _Sultan’s_ letter was enclosed in a cover of cloth of gold, about a foot broad, and a yard long, being wrote on fine Persian paper made of silk.

March xix.

His Excellency had audience of leave of the _mufti_, a reverend person about seventy years of age, somewhat corpulent, of an insolent and proud aspect, well learned in the Turkish law and polity, and formerly _hogia_ to the present _Sultan_. He is extremely covetous, and at the same time prodigiously rich, having hoarded, as it is said, one great part of the current gold of the empire, and likewise purchased many vast and extensive possessions about _Erzerum_ and _Trebisond_, which is his native countrey.

March xx.

His Excellency had audience of leave of the _caimekám_, a courteous, affable, and obliging person, of no great estate or character, except that his wife is sister to the _Sultan_. The same day, being Friday, I saw the _Grand Signior_ riding from his palace to the _mosque_, where he paid his public devotion. He was preceded by several _chiaushes_, then by six led horses, and then by several _solácks_, habited in short vests, and adorned with high caps of gilt silver. On each side of his horse walked three _churbegées_, bearing on their heads so many beautiful white ostrich feathers; and behind him followed on stately horses his _selictár agá_, and _kyslér agá_. He is of a low stature, but broad and corpulent; has a short neck, a large squat yellow fleshy face, a flat nose, a low forehead, with cheeks remarkably long and squabby. In his coins he stiles himself, _The mighty Sultan of the earth and sea, a Sultan son of a Sultan, Sultan Mustafá Han, son of emperor Mahomet_.

March xxi.

His Excellency had audience of leave of the _nakéib effendi_, who is the son of the _mufti_, and by patent the designed successor of his father. He is about thirty years of age, of good parts and behaviour, naturally arrogant, but made shew on this occasion of an affected courtesy.

March xxiv.

I this day saw the heads of five robbers brought from _Natolia_, and laid at the gate of the _seraglio_, where by custom they are to remain three suns. They are only the skins of so many criminals heads stuffed with straw.

April ii. _A. D._ 1702.

His Excellency, my Lord Paget, now drawing near to his departure was this day invited to the grand _vizír’s_, where among many singular tokens of that esteem, which this court truely bears to his person and character, he received a splendid feast, together with the present of a sable vest to the value of two purses; as also a noble horse, and sumptuous furniture, computed at three more.

April iii.

I saw the extravagant devotion of an enthusiastic sect of Turks which they publicly acted in the manner following. After their ordinary midday _namáz_ at a little _mosque_ of this city, they repaired to an adjoining chapel, where were seated many Turks of different quality, who came thither as spectators only, and to entertain their curiosity. These several devotées, who were to act their part, were decently ranked in circular seats, till the prior of their order entered, on which they all rose to reverence him. He immediately seated himself in the corner of the room, and with the whole fraternity struck up a religious hymn, which they carried on in a decent, solemn, and harmonious manner. This done, they rose upon their feet, to the number of about sixty persons, and form’d themselves into a close ring, each one holding his hands on the breast and neck of his foreman. In this posture they advanced round, repeating with a deep and forcible voice, _Hú hú_; at the same time stamping violently on the ground, and with great force throwing their heads towards the center of the ring. Soon after two step’d within the circle, and turn’d swiftly upon their heel; upon which the whole company quickened their motion, and grew into a warmth and fury, which is rather to be admired, than expressed in words. For two hours and an half they acted a continual fury, sometimes huging one another in a cluster, at other times kneeling in a confused company, and then runing round in a circle without cessation[109], throwing about their hands, tossing their heads, and repeating in hidious cries, _Hú héy_, _Alláh hulláh_, _Allá hú_, or, _Allá héy_. As they grew hoarser and weaker, both their sound and action exactly resembled the barking and snarling of dogs[110]; till at length being covered with sweat, and worked up to the last pitch of extasy, they concluded with certain versicles, which they repeated from the mouth of the prior, and so dismissed us[111].

April iv.

My Lord Paget paid his last visit this morning to the _vizír kayá_, who presented him with a gentile horse and furniture. In the afternoon he likewise took his last leave of the _reis effendi_, who honoured him with the like present, and dismissed him with expressions, that witnessed the sincere and cordial respect he bore him. I shall conclude this narrative with observing only, that about _Adrianople_ grows an excellent red wine, which I take to be that mentioned by _Hesiod_ in his _Oper et Dies_, _L._ ii. ℣. 107, where he says: Πετραίη τε σκίη, καὶ Βίβλινος οἶνος.

An Account of a journey from _Adrianople_, thro _Bulgaria_, _Walachia_, _Transylvania_, _Hungary_, _Germany_, _Flanders_, _Holland_, and thence to _England_, in the years MDCCII and MDCCIII.

April viii. _A. D._ 1702.

This day about ten a clock my Lord Paget set out from _Adrianople_, and began his journey homeward with a splendid equipage. First proceeded two _chiaushes_, and six _janisaries_; then the three flags of the _arms of England_, the _union_, and _St. George_, after these the gentlemen of the horse, with thirteen led horses; next the _agá_, appointed by the government to conduct his Excellency; who was followed by four coaches, each drawn by six horses, in the last of which rode his Excellency himself, and in the first some gentlemen, who accompanied him in this journey; namely, Count _Gylderstope_ of Sweden, Mr. George Montague, nephew to my Lord Hallifax, and his tutor Mr. _Gangain_.

For conveniency of carriage, and accommodations of the journey, his Excellency was furnished with seventy one waggons, which were to attend him to the extreme bounds of the Turkish empire, at the sole charge of the Port. Tho this was but the least mark of esteem, which he received from thence; as it may be reasonably computed, that they presented him to the value of near twenty purses of money, since his last arrival at _Adrianople_, in the following particulars. For the fitting up of his palace in that city, five hundred dollars: for the cushions and other furniture of two _sophá_ rooms, six hundred: for a stately horse from the grand _vizír_, five hundred: for the rich furniture of the same, a thousand: for a sable vest at the same time, a thousand: for an horse and furniture from the _vizír kayá_, five hundred: for the like from the _reis effendi_, five hundred: for fifteen mules from the government, at about fifty dollars each, seven hundred and fifty: for seventy two horses from the same, at thirty dollars each, two thousand one hundred and sixty: and lastly for one hundred days _tain_, or _allowance_, from the Port, at the rate of fifty dollars a day, making five thousand.

This day his Excellency and his retinue travel slowly about the space of fifteen miles, and about three a clock arrive at a small village called _Senigée_, where we find the waggons disposed in their several stations, the apartments of each company alloted, and three tents (tho not pitched this evening) ready for the service of his Excellency; which I here mention once for all, as being the constant method of each following _conáck_.

April ix.

From _Senigée_ we proceed this morning in three hours to _Cokúck Derocut_, and from thence in the like time to _Boiák Dervent_, where we find his Excellency’s tents orderly and conveniently placed, and all things regularly disposed for this night’s lodging. Here we saw an old Bulgar Christian, named _Staón_, aged one hundred and twenty years[112]; who told us, that he had all his life time been subject to great and continual sickness, and had three times changed his teeth, once in his infancy, and twice in his old age. They were now for the most part intire, his senses of hearing and tasting very lively, and his sight but little decayed; his beard and his eyebrows lately became perfectly black, but the hair of his head milk white, and the skin of his breast like the bark of an old weather beaten beech.

April x.

We travel this day from _Dervent_ to _Jenícui_, having hitherto found the country to consist of a level campain, and a soil that promised fertility, were it more happily furnished with inhabitants, water, and wood.

April xi.

We now proceed from _Jenícui_ to _Pashácui_, so called from the residence of _Achmét Gerai Sultan_, who is a Tartar prince, happily banished from his own barbarous country to this fair and delightful village, situated in a verdant plain, that is better furnished with wood, than the campain we had lately passed; and watered with a small river, which seems to rise from the bowels of mount _Haemus_, and bend its course towards the _Tunsa_.

April xii.

From _Pashácui_ we arrive at _Comorwa_, a rich well cultivated village, and plentifully supplied both with wood and water. In our way hitherto from _Adrianople_ we sometimes observed drummers, placed in the nature of watchmen, to give notice of the security of the road.

April xiii.

From _Comorwa_ we proceed in two hours and a half to _Dobral_, leaving in view to the right hand a large Turkish town called _Cornibat_, famous for dying, and preparing the fine purple and yellow leather of this country, which it vends in great quantities. From _Dobral_ we begin to ascend the foot of _Haemus_, where the way winds so artificially, as to take away the difficulty of ascent. Here crossing a rapid river, which forms its chanel in the body of the mountain, and thro a variety of diverting shades and clifts, we arrive at length at an open plain on the top of the hill, and therein at a true country paradise of Bulgar Christians called _Challikcavák_[113]; where a new church has been lately obtained for the inhabitants, by the interest of Count _Oetingh_, embassador extraordinary from his Imperial Majesty. Here the damsels of the parish entertained us this evening with a dance, which tho performed with no great art or variety, yet had a certain plainness and simplicity, which was truly grateful. The women here wear as ornaments, a sort of cravat consisting of various silver coins, and large bossy silver bracelets; who dismissed us the next morning with corn strewed in our way.

April xiv.

On the top of the hill we proceed for some time in a level road, thro a stately grove of oaks; after which the way begins to descend, and being shortened by the pleasure of the shady scene on each side, leads unexpectedly into the adjoining plain. In this we travel about an hour, near the foot of the delightful _Haemus_, and then find our quarters ready to receive us at a Christian village, called _Trágoe_. And indeed all the villages, which we had hitherto passed from _Adrianople_, were intirely inhabited by Christians, who by nation are Bulgarians, but by their faith of the Greek communion.

April xv.

We still continue our journey at the foot of the mountain, till in an hour’s time we arrive at _Eskí Stambol_; from whence the way, now leaving _Haemus_ at our backs, carries us in four hours more to the first Turkish village, which had occurred in our progress, called _Boklar_. Mount _Haemus_ being the limit, that divides _Thracia_ from _Bulgaria_, or _Moesia Inferior_ of the antients, we made this day’s journey in the latter; which hereabouts appears as pleasant, as a just mixture of hills and vales, woods and lawns, arable and pasture ground can make it. The above mentioned _Eskí Stambol_ is a name given by the Turks to the remains of an ancient city (possibly the _Oescus Triballorum_) which at the foot of _Haemus_ shews the intire tract of two walls; the inward square, and of about a mile in circumference; the outward almost circular, and containing the compass of five miles. But besides these it has no reliques of carved work, or any inscription, that may give light to the true name or history of the place. In one corner only of the inward wall are several crosses, and an image of the Παναγία, or _Virgin Mother_, barbarously cut, with two or three rude lines of modern Greek characters, in which nothing but the word Βασηλίσαν, or _Queen_, was now legible, and that corruptly written, as it is here copied. By the abovementioned walls runs a small river from the _Haemus_, now called by the Italians _Monte Argentato_, and by the Turks _Batkán_.

April xvi.

Over a country, which is truly rich, as well as pleasant, and curiously varied by easy ascents and descents, we proceed in five hours from _Trágoe_ to _Arnoútcui_; a village whose inhabitants are of the Greek communion, tho its name implies them to be of Albanian original.

April xvii.

Thro a pleasant tract of country, containing a grateful variety of arable ground, pasture, and woods, we arrive in seven hours at _Uzungée Alon_. By the way we passed several villages, as likewise a large market town, wherein are seven _mosques_, and a palace of the _pashá_ of _Nicopoli_, which goes by the name of _Rásgrad_. The _cadí_ of this place, with an _alaí chiaush_, and other officers, came an hour out of town to meet his Excellency.

April xviii.

Thro a like country, only a little more woody, we continue our journey to _Uppéer_. And from thence the day following, where we first begin to see the _Danube_, we proceed thro a rich, pleasant, and well cultivated country, till about twelve a clock we arrive at _Tutracán_, on the banks of the river.

April xx.

We stay at this place, employed in the care of transporting his Excellency’s equipage on the other side of the water; and in the mean time cannot but reflect with pleasure on the agreable tract of ground, which for five days we had passed thro in _Moesia Inferior_. A country, which (however decried by Ovid, and disparaged by our modern geographers) for the richness of its soil, variety of rising and falling ground, elegancy of prospect, and a competent provision of wood and water, is perhaps not to be paralleled by any other spot in the universe. But tho the whole tract of this country, which descends gradually from the foot of the _Haemus_ to the banks of the _Danube_, is rich both in arable and pasture ground; yet the inhabitants seem excessive poor, and are defended from the injuries of the weather by houses very meanly built.

April xxi.

His Excellency and his retinue this day pass the _Danube_, between _Tutracán_ and the mouth of the _Argisch_, about eight in the morning, at a passage about a mile broad. Upon landing, his Excellency was complimented from the Prince of _Valachia_ by his cousin german Count _Tomáso Cantacuzéno_, and was received by a guard of fifty men, and two coaches of six. In the finer of these his Excellency rode about a mile into _Valachia_, along the banks of the _Argisch_, and then alighting was entertained under three rich tents, sent likewise by the Prince for his reception.

April xxii.

His Excellency continued his journey about six hours thro the _Valachian_, a country which on this side is exactly level, and luxuriantly rich, but desolate for want of culture and inhabitants. In the road we meet with wooden crosses, erected in many places to excite the devotion of Christian travelers; as also a convent of monks about two hours short of our _conáck_, near which the _Argisch_ receives the chanel of the _Dembowitza_. At length we arrive at a miserable collection of cottages, scarce deserving the name of a village, but blessed with the convenience of a delicious and healthy water; where we find the tents both of the Prince and his Excellency ready pitched for his entertainment this evening. We were conducted hither by Count _Tomáso_, who undertook the care of the public _tain_ to be furnished for his Excellency.

April xxiii.

We proceed four hours thro a pleasant wood, enriched with _lilia convallium_, and other flowers; and at length pitch our tents at _Popest_, which in the _Valachian_ language signifies the same as _Priest-town_. Here about five in the evening his Excellency received an express by Baron _Minsheim_ from Count _Rabutin_, with the most unhappy news of the death of his Britannic Majesty, on the eighth past.

April xxiv.

About seven this morning his Excellency set forward, and prepared for his entrance into _Bucurest_, which is distant about an hour and half from _Popest_. Not far from his _conáck_ he was met by a rich coach from the Prince of _Valachia_, complimented by his two eldest sons, and attended with a guard of about five hundred men. His Excellency having mounted the coach, preceded by the guard, made his entry about nine a clock; when he was conducted to a spare palace of the Prince, near that of his own residence, and entreated to use it as his own home. It is a fair and gentile house, built of stone, and covered agreably to the custom of this place with wooden tiles; and being furnished with apartments after the Christian fashion, may be esteemed magnificent, when compared with the barbarous edifices of the neighbouring Turks. From the front it looks into a large garden, and from the right wing into another of somewhat a lesser size; both which are agreable, and afford a convenience of shade and verdure.

This afternoon the Prince came on horseback thro the lesser garden to visit his Excellency, who met him at the garden door, and could scarce prevail with him to precede in going up stairs. He returned in an hour, and gave opportunity to his uncle, _Constantinus Cantacuzenus_, who has the office of grand _stolnicho_, or _steward_, in this court, to pay my Lord the same compliment. The name of the Prince is _Joannes Constantinus Bassarabas_, who has enjoyed the principality about thirteen years, having succeeded _Serbanus Cantacuzenus_, brother of the above mentioned _Constantinus Stolnichus_. He is a promoter of good order and discipline in the province, a reviver of architecture, and incourager of learning both at _Bucurest_ and other places of the principality; into which he has introduced two or three printing presses, and from thence published several books useful for the instruction and edification of the Greek church. He is about forty seven years of age, and has ten children, four of them sons; the second of whom, being about fourteen years of age, is well instructed in the Latin and Greek languages. He is of an affable, mild, and courteous temper; generous, careful of the education of his family, and a great encourager of religion; and therefore liberal in his disbursements for printing and giving away books, erecting of monasteries, adorning of churches, and other acts of piety. His uncle, _Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_, is an elderly person, who has traveled over most parts of Europe; is skilled in the controversies of their own church, as well as in the several liberal sciences; is also well versed in politics, and by his counsels chiefly sustains the present Prince, with the honour and interest of the principality.

April xxv.

By nine this morning his Excellency returned the visit to the Prince, who received him at the head of the stairs, and entertained him at first with a conference of about an hour and half long. After this his Excellency was conducted into the dining room, where, at a long table sumptuously spread, the Prince and his Excellency (the former on the right hand) sat down to diner. On the side of his Excellency sat the two eldest sons of the Prince, his son in law, with the other nobles and officers of the court. On the side of the Prince sat in order the retinue of the ambassador, with our conductor Count _Tomaso_ and others. The feast was protracted at least seven hours, during which passed a great variety of courses, consisting of excellent and costly dishes, with plenty of exquisite wine, and many ceremonious healths; the principal of which were to the _Grand Signior_, the _Emperor of Germany_, and the _Queen of England_, all seconded with salvoes from the soldiery in the adjoining court. Here we were made witnesses to a singular air of courtesy, hospitality, and gentile behavior in the Valachian nobility; but more particularly in the Prince himself, who drank to the health and prosperity of each stranger at the table. At the conclusion of the entertainment he veiled his Excellency with a rich silk robe of the Valachian fashion, lined with an excellent sable fur, upon which his Excellency and his retinue return to their own lodgings. The palace of the Prince, with the apartments, and gardens adjoining, are truly noble and magnificent; and tho not to be compared with those of some other Christian princes, yet much preferable to those, in which the ignorant Turks so ambitiously please themselves.

April xxvi.

This morning we had divine service and a sermon in his Excellency’s family, and in the afternoon he paid a short visit to the Patriarch of _Jerusalem_, but afterwards a much longer to the abovementioned _Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_. The Patriarch lodges in a large _kane_, built by the present Prince; where are large apartments and magazines for merchants, the rent of which may yeild about twenty purses _per annum_, and is by the Prince consigned into that Patriarch’s hands for the use of the _Holy sepulcher_.

April xxvii.

I visited the press of this place, where I found them printing some pieces of devotion in Arabic, under the care of the Patriarch of _Antioch_ to be distributed by him about his diocess. Beside this, they were undertaking to print a large _folio_ of the famous _Maximus Hieromonachus_, called Κυριακοδρόμιον, or _The course of the several Sundays throughout the year_. On this occasion I there bought several books, among which one containing all the _Liturgies_, _Hymns_, _Rituals_, _Lessons_, and other devotional tracts, used on all occasions in the Greek church through the course of the whole year.

This morning the Prince gave his Excellency another visit, which he returned in the afternoon, and at the same time took leave, with a deep sense of the generous, honourable, and affectionate treatment he had received in this court. After his return from the Prince, he received a visit of leave from _Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_, who then presented him with a gentile horse of the Valachian breed, and at the same time two of the same breed and quality were sent him from the Prince, upon which his Excellency answered the present of _Constantinus_ with a diamond ring, valued at three hundred pounds.

The same day I was favoured with a present of several Greek books, lately printed in this province, from Κῦρ Γεώργιος Καστριώτης; as likewise of some others from his Excellency _Constantinus Cantacuzenus_. Towards the evening our curiosity led us half an hour out of town to visit a convent, called in the Valachian tongue the _Catrochán_, and founded by the late Prince _Serbanus Cantacuzenus_. It is accounted the most beautiful of several in this province, founded by the present and preceding princes; and therefore a short account of this may serve for a specimen of the rest. It is situated on the _Dembowitza_, which washes it on two sides; while the other two are adorned with a grove of lovely, close, and shady oaks. The neighbouring pastures afford an entertaining prospect, whereas the parts nearer to the convent are disposed into orderly vineyards, and gardens. The fabric it self is an oblong quadrangle, built of regular and massy stone, divided into cells for about forty monks, with lodgings for the abbot, a common refectory, kitchin, and other public apartments. But in the middle of the area is erected the chapel, of the exact figure of the antient Greek churches, that is, distinguished into the νάρθηξ or _porch_, πρόναος or _outward chapel_, νάος or _body of the church_, βῆμα or _chancel_, and θυσιαστήριον or _altar_; the several parts being regular and stately, supported with pillars, and covered with high cupolas. The ornaments of painting, gilding, and embroidery are exceeding rich; and the pictures so numerously disposed, as to possess every part of the church in the inside, as well as the outside of the front. Here is shewn the monument of _Serbán_ the founder, with his princess, his brother, and other relations; whose pictures, among others, possess a great part of the western wall. Here also are kept the two _horse tails_, allowed by the Turks to be carried before this prince, together with the _bandiéra_ of the province, and another called the _paschal colours_, in which the whole _Trinity_ is profanely represented, and _God the Father_ expressed by the image of a reverend old man, looking over the body of our _Savior_, as it hangs upon the cross.