Chapter I: O. M. Et Diis (2)

There are three libraries in this place. One is called _Bibliotheca Windhagiana_, which belongs to the Dominican convent. Another is at the college of Jesuits, which is larger and better collected. But the third, which exceeds them both, and perhaps all others in these parts of the world, is that, which belongs to the Emperor at his palace in this city. In the Dominican library I saw a monstrous human _foetus_ kept in spirits of wine; with another dried and stuffed, which is double in all its parts, as having two heads, four hands, four legs, and two trunks as far as the navel, where they unite into one body. But what I observed in the _Caesarian_ library will deserve a more distinct relation, which I shall give in the following particulars.

The most eminent _Greek Mss._ in the _Catalogue_ of _Nesselius_, with other curiosities by him mentioned, and particularly the pictures belonging to the _res vestiaria_ of the antients; all which may be seen in the catalogue which I had there with me.

Besides what occurs in the _Nesselian Catalogue_, the antient _Ambrosian Ms._ of part of _Livy_, which is clear and legible; tho the contrary is asserted by Dr. _Brown_[134]. It is the oldest copy now extant of that author, and tho it ends with _Lib._ XLV; yet there is added at the bottom of the page, _Liber_ XLVI _incipit feliciter_, as if it was extant at that time, which is conceived by _Lambecius_ to be about a thousand years since.

The _Ms. German Bible_ of the Emperor _Wenceslaus_, in the margin of which, among other curious pictures relating to the sacred story, he is himself painted in more than fifty places, as washing in his _bagnio_, where he was once prisoner; together with the _bagnio_ girl, who furthered his escape, and whom afterwards he so passionately loved.

A copy of the _golden bull_, containing the constitutions of the empire by _Charles_ the fourth, in the first year of his empire. It is now a great curiosity, and was written for the use of the Emperor _Wenceslaus_, but forty years after the original published at _Waremburg_ in 1356, and still reserved at _Augsburg_.

An elegant, tho not very antient _Ms._ of _Cicero’s Orations_, with another more antient of _Ovid’s Metamorphoses_.

The _Letter_ of the present _Tartar Han_ to the present Emperor, finely wrote on a long roll of silk.

A printed book of the _Confucian philosophy_ in the _Sinese_ character and language, published by the Jesuits.

A _Ms._ book of _Latin letters_, written by the present Emperor to _Lambecius_, in a neat and elegant stile; in which he always begins with, _Chare Lambeci_. To this is affixed the following _Epigram_ on the present King of France by the said Emperor, attested by _Lambecius_ to have been written by the Emperor in his presence at _Luxemburg_, 17 May 1666.

_Bella fugis, sequeris bellas, pugnaeque repugnas,_
_Et bellatori sunt tibi bella tori._
_Imbelles imbellis amas, totusque videris_
_Mars ad opus Veneris, Martis ad arma Venus._

The celebrated _Ms._ of _Jacobus Strada_, antiquary to _Maximilian_ the second, concerning antient medals; consisting of eight volumes in this order: Vol. i. and ii. _De nummis consularibus._ Vol. iii. _De Latinis, a Julio Caesare ad Nervum._ Vol. iv. _De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum._ Vol. v. _De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad Claudium Secundum._ Vol. vi. _De nummis Graecis a Julio Caesare ad Nervum._ Vol. vii. _De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum._ Vol. viii. _De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad triginta illos sub Gallieno tyrannos._ This work contains a collection of fair and choice medals, all exquisitely delineated by a pencil, each of which fills a whole page in _folio_; but the explication added by the author shews him to have been more laborious than learned, and discovers many notorious mistakes, as well in the tongues, as the history, to which the medals relate.

Two fragments, one in the _Greek_, the other in the _Latin tongue_, written on antient bark.

The case of this library is very mean, being unfurnished with seats and benches, and divided into four or five distinct apartments, besides another more separate from the rest, in which are kept all prohibited, that is, controversial books in divinity, together with the small remainder of _Matthias Corvinus’s_ library brought from _Buda_. But it is still a greater disadvantage to this library, that since the death of _Nesselius_ it has for two years been without a librarian, and therefore is difficult of access, and not without a considerable fee. This defect is attributed to the great scarcity of learned men in these parts, especially those of the Roman faith; for which reason the two preceding librarians, _Lambecius_ and _Nesselius_, being before Lutherans, were obliged to renounce their faith, when they accepted that employ.

Over against the library is a long gallery, adjoining likewise to the palace, wherein is contained the Emperor’s treasury. A noble and truly royal collection is here of innumerable curiosities, both of art and nature, with vast riches in silver, gold, pretious stones, and jewels. But this likewise has the disgrace of being meanly exposed to sale, nor is it ever shewn under the exorbitant fee of twenty five florins; however I obtained two opportunities of viewing it, in the latter of which I took a large and distinct catalogue of the chief rarities deposited there, which would be too large to be here inserted.

The university of this place is a numerous society, appropriated to several distinct nations, particularly those of the empire, and the Emperor’s hereditary dominions; but it is remarkable for nothing but a low contracted institution, and administered wholly by the Jesuites, except that they refuse the office of _rector magnificus_, as being an expensive honour. The schools are tolerable and convenient apartments, adjoining to the Jesuits college; but the particular students are lodged privately, as every one’s circumstances and conveniency best serve him. But what they call the _academy_ is in its kind more flourishing than the university; being a society instituted at the charge of the whole province of Austria, to instruct the young gentry and nobility in riding, fencing, dancing, the modern tongues, heraldry, history, and other polite arts. Their riding school is a noble room; and adjoining thereto is a stable of about forty managed horses, for the maintaining of which their instructor in horsemanship receives ten thousand florins annually from the public.

The present Imperial family ordinarily residing in this palace consists of the Emperor; the Empress _Leonora_; the King and Queen of the _Romans_; Archduke _Charles_; with the four Archdutchesses, _Marta Elisabeth_, _Maria Anna_, _Maria Josepha_, _Maria Magdalena_. Of these the Emperor has now passed sixty two years of his age, the King of the _Romans_ twenty four, and the Archduke will be seventeen in October next; the two elder of the Archdutchesses have been some time marriageable, but the two younger are in their state of childhood. The Emperor is of a mild disposition, and conscientiously just, except where influenced by popish principles; he reasons solidly, has a happy memory, is both a lover and composer of music, skilled in the Hungarian, Sclavonian, and French tongues, and has an elegant taste of the Italian and Latin. Both he and his Empress appear truly devout in their way, which they testify by many instances of diffusive liberality and charity, as likewise by their frequent walks in processions, and daily visiting and dining in religious convents. Their garb, especially that of the Empress, is exceeding plain; their coaches and liveries of the old fashion; and their ceremonious dress is the habit and mode of Spain. Only they have now and then, what they call their _Gala days_, in which there is a great resort to court, and none appear there but in suits of gold and silver embroidery. So that it is the wisdom of this government, which has little reason to brag of its riches, to make this sort of luxury necessary, at a time when its more wealthy neighbours have either by prudent choice, or wholesome laws, wholly retrenched these superfluities. But to return to the character of the family. The Emperor is not only devout, but even bigoted to the Romish church, and fondly addicted to the priests, especially the Jesuits. The King of the _Romans_ on the contrary is severely imbittered against them, but the Archduke is inclinable to tread in his father’s steps. The Empress will sometimes undertake pilgrimages on foot to some famous shrine, or image, in the adjoining country; and promises herself no doubt great benefits from that painful superstition.

The King of the _Romans_ was gone to the siege of _Landaw_ before our arrival; but the remainder of the Imperial family I had frequent opportunity of seeing, particularly at their supper, or the operas, which are sometimes acted in a theatre at the _Favorite_. It is their custom to salute the Emperor by bowing the knee. Their table is truly moderate, and a remarkable example of temperance and parsimony. Their operas are excessive dull, the action mean and trivial, and therefore more agreable to the low genius and relish of this place. Another occasion, that offered me the sight of the Emperor and the Archduke, was at a certain sport, with which in summer time they frequently divert themselves. They send out a large and expensive train of carts, laden with tents, canvas, poles, and other utensils, into one of their adjoining parks. There in an open green a tent is pitched for the Emperor and his retinue, round which a large and long space of ground is enclosed with high rails of canvas. When the Emperor is arrived, and ready to begin his diversion, a rank of huntsmen sound their horns, the rails drop at one end, and the grand _cacciatóre_ rides out with his attendants to drive in an herd of deer, enclosed near at hand for this purpose. This done, they are forced up to the Emperor’s tent, till at the distance of about twenty yards they stand in a throng together. Hereupon his Imperial Majesty takes a well poised carbine, rests it upon a fixt support, then applies a perspective glass to the barrel, and discharges among the herd; and thus, with the help of the Archduke, he stuns, or maims perhaps, a dozen at twice as many shots. At length they sit down to diner, there talk over their diversion, and give this ignoble slaughter the name of a hunt.

During my stay at _Vienna_, I had the opportunity of three accidental but remarkable sights. The first of these was the execution of a woman by decollation, whose head the executioner struck off, as she sat in a chair, at one blow, levelled against the back part of her neck, with a two handed stroke, and a broad two edged sword. At these executions there assists, as in Italy, a number of about twenty persons, called the _confraternity of the dead_, habited in black, with masks, broad brimed hats, and mourning staves. They are a fixed society, composed of citizens of the middle rank, on whom their confessors impose it, as a piece of penance, to assist _incognito_ on these occasions. But most remarkable was the fact and behaviour of the criminal, who was about twenty six years of age, and in the absence of her husband, now three years imprisoned at _Presburg_, had admitted the embraces of a young man, whom she passionately loved, but at length discovered to be upon the design of marrying another woman. After the most earnest but fruitless endeavours to divert his intention, she invites him one morning to a walk beyond the _Favorite_, and in a remote place enticing him to kiss her, takes occasion to shoot him in the head. This done, she immediately resigns herself to justice, reveals the whole fact, and implores her speedy dispatch; that so she might have his company in the other world, without whom she could not live in this. She walked with a fresh undaunted countenance to the place of sentence, which tho before designed and notified accordingly, yet is never formally pronounced till the time of execution. From thence she returned to the place of her death, sat down in the chair, and then received the stroke, without ever wavering her body, changing her complexion, or dreading the blow she was to feel. At these executions they often catch the blood of the criminal, as good against the falling sickness[135].

Another ceremony that occurred, while I resided here, was the investiture of the Duke of _Saxony_, and other inferior Princes of that circle, now at length demanded of his Imperial Majesty, at the _Favorite_, on the eighth of August. The five several representatives of the Elector and other Princes kneeling before the Emperor, who was seated on a low throne, did fealty in behalf of their respective patrons, rehearsed their pedigrees and title to their principalities, and requested of his Imperial Majesty to be invested in their several dignities. This being granted to them, they then took the proper oath at the feet of the Emperor; afterwards kissed the handle of a sword, which he held forth to each of them; and at last retiring to their first places, there on their knees they recognized the authority of his Imperial Majesty, and so were dismissed.

The third solemnity was a pompous procession, undertaken to accompany the bones of three Saints, namely, _Sancta Victoria_, _Sanctus Alexander_, and _Sanctus Justus_, from _St. Stephen’s_ to the chapel of the Emperor’s palace in the city. They were newly brought from Italy, where being observed by Prince _Leichtenstein_ in his late embassy to _Rome_, and found to have some relation to Hungary, of which two of them were natives; they were thought proper to be transmitted to _Vienna_, and accordingly purchased very dear, one of them standing him in no less than four thousand florins. In this procession marched all the religious orders, ranked in their several fraternities, except that the Jesuit disposed themselves promiscuously among the laity. After the monks and friars followed the meaner people, to the number of about two thousand; then the gentry, tho in a smaller number; after them a few of the nobility; then the Archduke and Emperor; and last of all the Empress and Archdutchesses. Each person of this numerous train maintained a decent gravity, except the Archbishop of _Vienna_, who being dressed in his episcopal robes and mitre walked like a horse in gaudy trappings, flinging about his legs, surveying his rich vestments, and looking up to the ladies and other spectators, who admired him from the windows, under which he passed.

August xxvii.

This day I went in a calash, together with Mr. Montague and Mr. _Gaugain_, to _Petronel_, a village on the _Danube_, about twenty four English miles from _Vienna_, seated in the place of the antient _Carnuntum_, where _M. Antoninus_ held his capital quarters to bridle the _Marcomanni_ for the space of three years, and then retiring on account of his indisposition to _Vindobona_ died there. While we were on the road, I was entertained by those gentlemen, with a relation of what they had seen the day before. Count _Sherradin_ of _Bohemia_ had several times shot a pistol bullet into a mark of the size of a florin, at the distance of forty yards. And at this he is said to be so expert, that his pages will venture to hold a florin between their thumb and forefinger, which he dextrously uses to strike without hurting them. The like is sometimes practised by the present King of _Poland_, tho he once broke the fingers of a page in making the experiment. We here saw the remains of a triumphal arch, the _fornix_ of which is yet intire; erected, as is thought by _Nesselius_ and _Lambecius_, on occasion of that _Pannonian_ expedition of _Tiberius_, which is so much celebrated by _Paterculus_[136]. The inhabitants here shewed us various Roman coins, tho none of any noted value. The village now belongs to Count _Traun_, who is descended from _Babo_, count of _Abensberg_, who had forty children by two lawful wives; thirty two of which, being sons, were presented by him to the Emperor, _Henry_ the second, who prefered them all. Count _Traun_ has here a stately palace, called the _Castle_, where we saw the story of the thirty two sons of Count _Babo_ painted at large[137]. The house is moted round, as is usual all over this country. In the inside is a noble hall, well painted in the roof, and at the entrance of the gate is fixt an antient Latin inscription, which I have here transcribed.

SILVANAB. ET
QVADRIBIS[138] AVG. SACRVM
C. ANTONINVS VALENTINVS
VET. LEG. XIIII. G. MVRVM A FV
NDAMENTIS CVM SVO INT
ROITO ET PORTICVM CVM
ACCVBITO VETVSTATE CONLA
BSVM IMPENDIO SVO RESTITV
IT GENTIANO ET BASSO COS.

August xxix.

His Excellency with his whole family retired this day from _Vienna_ to _Baden_, a small town, yet enclosed with an old wall, and celebrated for its baths, which are of pure sulphur. They rise in several places about the town, without any mixture of steel or other mineral, and are there collected into several square cisterns railed about with wood; where people of different quality bathe in distinct bagnios, and in some cases with good success. The town is seated four hours from _Vienna_, at the foot of the hills, which I take to be the _Pannonian Alps_. In this place Mr. Paget and I used the constant exercise of walking morning and evening, where I experienced a happy restoration of my health, once much debilitated in Turkey. _Gloria in excelsis Deo!_

September xxv.

His Excellency now sent Mr. Paget and myself to see the castle of _Luxemburg_, situated in the way betwixt _Baden_ and _Vienna_. It is a mean building, in the form of a small quadrangle, and moted round. I observed several curious pictures in it, one particularly fine of the _seven liberal sciences_, in the dining room of the Emperor; another of the present _King of France_, when about four years of age; a third of _Charles the fifth_; a fourth of _Matthias Corvinus_ and his father _Huniades_. The dining room is observable for an accident of thunder, which, while the Emperor and his family were at diner, entered the room at one quarter, passed in a semicircle about the table, and made its way thro the opposite wall with great explosion; while the Emperor remained in his seat with a remarkable calmness and serenity of mind. Adjoining to this building is a delightful park enclosed with pales; and nearer to the house a thick grove of elm and oak, in which is a long walk, and avenues so cut, as to resemble all the streets of _Vienna_.

September xxix.

This day Mr. Paget and I by the direction of his Excellency went to see a glass house, newly erected in the hills adjoining to this place, at the distance of about three hours. Our way thither lay thro a delicious vale, which conveys a small river, is graced with green meadows on each side, and above these with rising hills, adorned with a variety of trees, but particularly pines and firs. I here observed the several curiosities of that art and manufacture, which, tho frequent in England, I had never before seen. Returning home we stept a little to the left hand, to visit a convent of _Cistercian_ monks, by the name of _St. Cross_, founded in the year 1131, by _St. Leopold_, Marquess of _Austria_. During the late siege of _Vienna_ it was burnt by the Tartars (the common fate of all this country for thirty or forty Holland miles round _Vienna_) but soon after rebuilt by its own abbot, _Clement Scheffer_, in a more stately and splendid manner. Here reside an abbot, a prior, and about sixty monks, all royally maintained by noble revenues belonging to the monastery. They are neatly and gentilely dressed, lodged in pleasant chambers, have their public appartments alike magnificent, a fine garden, and prospects beautified with vistos and avenues cut in the adjoining woods. The abbot was then absent, but the prior and librarian treated us at supper, where we were served with seven or eight dishes, the best old wines, and conversation far from monkish. The librarian particularly was pleased to ridicule the custom of signing all the doors of this country with C. M. B. which the people fondly esteem a charm against fire and thievery; but he, as he said, instead of _Cuspar Malcheir Bulkasar_, was wont to interpret these letters _Cax Mundus Beelzebub_. At the same time I could not but be highly offended at a certain jocular freedom, with which he treated the _Holy Scripture_, saying with a profane mirth, when he delivered to us a glass of wine, _Transeat a me calix iste_; and when he had tossed off his own, _Consummatum est_. In truth we here saw not any token of popish zeal or superstition, as is usual in other places, no crucifixes, or images of the _Trinity_, _Virgin_, and the like; but instead of these, the whole Imperial family excellently well painted, and these in rooms, which for grandeur exceeded any, that the Emperor is master of in his palaces about _Vienna_. Here they favoured us with a lodging after a gentile and candid entertainment, and dismissed us in the like manner by eight a clock the next morning. Their library was mean, but the case very neat; tho the library had been much larger before the destruction by the Tartars. However I saw here a good Latin _Ms._ of the _New Testament_, without the _Epistles_ of _St. Peter_, _James_, or _John_; and the _Apocalypse_ placed immediately after _St. John’s Gospel_.

October iv.

My Lord and his family now returned from _Baden_ to _Vienna_, where he lodged within the city in the house of _C. Stratman_, at the rate of five hundred florins a month. At _Baden_ I was able to observe nothing, except some small matters relating to country affairs. As their way of making wine in the field, where they mash the grapes in broad open tubs, and tun it into large casks, as they lie in the cart. The manner of enclosing their vineyards with high poles joined at the top, and burnt at bottom to secure them from corrupting by the moisture of the ground. The manner of drawing sometimes with asses, and at other times with oxen, joining the harness to their horns without the use of yokes. I observed likewise their custom of calling a public officer upon the death of any animal; before which they dare not touch the carcass, he only being impowered to carry it away to a certain place, and there flea it, for which he receives three florins. This officer is called the _hound slayer_, because twice a year he is obliged to kill all the dogs both in town and country, that are found without a collar, which is thought an institution against spreading of infectious diseases.

October v.

This day I waited upon Mr. Stepney, who among other papers from England shewed me that traiterous Epigram, written in praise of _Sorrel_, or the horse, from which his late Majesty received his fatal fall.

October xxv.

There was brought to his Excellency’s house a male child, seven years of age, born at _Rigetsch_, three miles and a half from _Papa_, of a beautiful countenance, but without legs or thighs; and the left hand deformed, but the right intire. It walks, and raises itself with ease, while its trunk supplies the use of one leg, and the right hand that of the other. The hips terminate in a round figure, not unlike a woman’s breasts, and have in the middle an excrescence exactly resembling a large nipple. The child is healthy and lively, and from the crown of the head to the extremity of the trunk is three palms and a half long.

I had now, in company of several English gentlemen, an opportunity of seeing the Emperor’s collection of pictures, which is exposed at the price of twelve florins. It consists of three long galleries, with four or five large and square chambers. The whole number of pieces amounts to a thousand six hundred and sixty three, performed by the best hands of Europe, particularly these which follow: _Albert Durer_, _Anton. Correggio_, _Bassan_, _Palma_ senior and junior, _Prugel_ senior and junior, _Paul Veronese_, _Bronzini_, _Franck_ senior, _Paduanino_, _Jo. Bellino_, _Poussin_, _Gerome Poss_, _Portononi_, _Spagnoletto_, _Raphael Sancio_, _Giorgioni_, _Titian_, _Tintoretto_, _Van Ach_, _Holbein_, _Rubens_, _Van Dick_, _John de Heem_, _Pauditz_, and others. Among these there was one piece of _Raphael_, which seemed to excel the rest, being _a saint holding a crucifix_, which belonged to the cabinet of King _Charles_ the first of England, and was sold by _Oliver_ to this court for twelve thousand florins. Besides this collection of pictures, there is another set of rarities, preserved in a cabinet at one end of the third gallery, and consisting of _intaglios_ and _cameos_; among which is a large head of _Domitian_ in agate; a series of gold medals, and among them two of _Otho_, to which is added a _Pisennius Niger_ in silver of the third size. In the same cabinet are several small statues of brass and stone, among the rest those of _Venus_ and _Hercules_; and likewise several antient busts, particularly of _Plato_ and _Aristotle_; with divers sepulchral lamps, urns, and other remains of antiquity. To say nothing of the curiosities found in the tomb of _Childeric_ the first by _Leopold William_, Archduke of _Austria_, and uncle to this Emperor, at _Tournay_ in the year 1657. Among these are some remarkable gold coins of that time, with the repeated emblem of flies or bees, the wings of which at a distance give the figure of a _flower de lys_, and are supposed to be the real arms of France, tho this resemblance has occasioned their being mistaken for that flower. But more especially is to be remembred the order of antient busts ranged on one side of the three galleries, among which are several heads of _Emperors_, and _Satyrs_, with one of _Socrates_; as likewise an intire figure of _Magna Mater turrita_, with a _lion_ under her chair, a _tympanum_ in her left hand, and _patina_ in her right; which cost this court a thousand florins at _Rome_.

November iii.

I went to visit Mr. _C. Boét_, a famous painter in enamel, who had a salary from his late Majesty, whose picture, with those of other confederate Princes, drawn by him he now shewed me. But that which is most remarkable, he is at present working for this court the largest piece, that ever was known in enamel, being an oval of eighteen inches by fifteen; which contains the figures of the Emperor and Empress, King and Queen of the _Romans_, with the Archduke, the four Archdutchesses, and the two young Daughters of the King of the _Romans_. He was sent for hither by his late Majesty on purpose for this work, for which when finished he is by compact to receive four thousand ducats of gold. The materials of it are a copper plate covered with a white enamel, which being hardened in the fire, is afterwards painted over in colours of a peculiar composition, with oil of lavender and rosemary; and then again put into the fire to receive a gloss, and additional hardness; after which it is liable to no accident, but that of breaking. It may be observed, that all the red colours in this work are made of gold.

November vi.

This day by order of his Excellency I waited on the two young _Messieurs Olmeus_ and others, in order to see the Emperor’s treasury the third time, and thereby perfected my catalogue of those rarities. And his Excellency being then preparing for his departure, the Emperor presented him with six thousand dollars.

November viii.

His Excellency with his retinue now set forward from _Vienna_ towards _Holland_, and proceed two german miles to _Entzersdorff_. A little before the midway we cross the _Danube_ over a wooden bridge four hundred paces in length, and continue near the banks of the river to the above mentioned town. And as we continued there the following day, I walked down to the banks of the _Danube_, where it flows under the castle of _St. Leopold_, near _Cloyster Newburg_, and in the extreme point of _Mons Cetius_.

November x.

This day we proceed two German miles and a half further to _Stockeran_, and there meet C. _Schlick_, Mr. Stepney, Mr. Montague, and Mr. _Gangain_, with whom we proceed three miles and a half further to our lodgings at _Holibrun_. And from thence his Excellency, with the said company, the next morning goes out an hour to Count _Sereny’s_, there to wait on the King of the _Romans_, now returning from the campaign on the _Rhine_. By one a clock the King and Queen arrived at the Count’s, where his Excellency had an audience of both their Majesties; after which they sat down to table, and his Excellency and company dined with the court, and afterwards returned to _Holibrun_.

November xii.

This day we advance about five miles further in _Austria_, and then crossing the _Teya_ enter into _Moravia_, now called _Makren_, and take up our quarters at _Znaim_, the _Medoslanium_ of Ptolemy. This is a fair and fortified town, tho of the old fashion, upon the river _Teya_, which runs hence into the _Morawa_, antiently the _Marus_, and with that into the _Danube_. In the year 1645 this town was taken and pillaged by the Swedes. It has two market places, in each of which is a good fountain; and in one of them the image of the _Virgin_, erected on a fair pillar, and inscribed with a new sort of _Gloria Patri_, that is, LAVS DEO, MARIAEQVE VIRGINI, SANCTISQUE SVIS. There are likewise several convents, of Capuchines, Dominicans, Jesuits, and Premonstratensians; and it is remarkable for excellent endive.

November xiii.

We stay this day at _Znaim_, and the day following proceed three German miles to _Budwitz_, thro pleasant woods of fir, with fertile open feilds. And moving from thence the next morning, three more German miles carry us thro _Babitz_ and _Drumna_ to _Pernitz_, by a pleasant way, thro a country sometimes open and well tilled; and at other times thro delightful woods of pine or fir, intermixt with juniper and a few birch; but scarce any other shrubs or trees in the whole country. At _Pernitz_ is a convent of _Paulins_, so called from _Sto. Francisco di Paula_, a strict order, that eats no flesh nor fish throughout the year. In this place live several Jews, who are bound to wear blue ruffs, as a mark of distinction.

November xvi.

Two German miles thro woods of fir and arable ground bring us to _Iglaw_. This city, reasonably well fortified, has a large and clean market place, round which the houses have false fronts, and are handsomely painted on the outside with pleasant landskips or histories. At the upper end of it is a statue of the _Virgin_ on a column, like that at _Znaim_; both seeming to be an imitation of that at _Vienna_. We bait an hour at _Iglaw_, and then pass on one German mile to a small village, called _Steken_. But immediately beyond the wall of _Iglaw_ we pass a river of the same name, and there enter into _Bohemia_, whence we continue our way over a large lake, with a road cast up betwixt the two branches of it, and delicate woods of fir adorning its banks. This wood is of large extent, and seems to be a continuation of the _Sylva Hercynia_ in this country, now called _Behemerwaldt_.

November xvii.

We stay this day at _Steken_, where I had leisure to observe in general concerning _Moravia_, that the country is fertile and well tilled, except where it is overrun with pine or fir woods. The people are all slaves to the lords of the several mansions; but this extends only to their labour, not the property of their gain. The language of the place is _Behemish_, a dialect of the _Sclavonian_; but at inns and other public houses they ordinarily speak _Tuysech_. The government it divided into five districts, of which there are as many captains, but the command of the whole province is committed by the Emperor to Count _Thorn_. The river _Morawa_ is likewise called _Mark_ by the Germans; which latter name seems to relate to the antient inhabitants, the _Marcomanni_ (who with the _Quadi_ were here settled) as the former name does to the _Moravians_. Through the whole extent of the country we frequent meet with large lakes, at the distance perhaps of an English mile.

November xviii.

This day we proceed one mile and a half to _Tuytschenbrodt_, an old fortification on the river _Sazawa_, and from thence two miles to _Habern_, in a wood on the right hand. _Tuytschenbrodt_ was the place, where General _Zeiska_ beat the Emperor _Sigismund_, and by that defeat drove him out of Bohemia.

November xix.

One mile brings us this day to _Janikaw_, and two more from thence to _Czaslaw_; the place where _Ferdinand_ the second narrowly escaped being assassinated by an Italian, hid for that purpose in an oven. Half a mile farther carries us to a small hamlet, called _Wasser Cratz_. Of these towns _Janikaw_ is the place, where the battle was fought betwixt the Swedes and Imperialists in 1645; and _Czaslaw_, where General _Zeiska_ lies buried.

November xx.

From _Wasser Cratz_ we proceed one quarter of a German mile, and then having the city of _Kuttenberg_ on our left hand, a little farther in the road we pass by two Imperial mines, where they are now at work, and dig up a mixt oar, consisting of copper, lead, and silver, a specimen of which they then shewed us. At one mile and a half from our last lodging we come to _Kottin_, and there breakfast. Then proceeding another mile and a half, we arrive at _Blanyan_. From _Kottin_ flows the river _Elb_, which takes its name about five miles below that place, and is there scarce navigable. As we travel, we keep it in sight on the right hand, and the woods still on the left.

November XXI.

Two miles and a half from _Branyan_ carry us to _Oval_, thro an open arable country, with a continued tract of woods on our left hand. In the midway we bait at the poor town of _Bohaimsbrodt_. But the day following for two miles and a half we pass thro a pleasant grove of birch and pine, and afterwards thro open ploughed feilds to _Prague_.

November xxiii.

His Excellency staying this day at _Prague_, I took that opportunity of viewing every thing I could of that noble city, which is thought to be the largest in Germany. It is inclosed with one intire wall, two third parts of which are regularly divided into curtains and bastions; but the remaining third is old and defenceless. Tho indeed the whole town is commanded by ascending ground, that no fortification can make it long defensible. The _Muldaw_, a large and rapid river, divides it into two parts, which are again joined by a fair and stately bridge of stone, seventeen hundred feet long and thirty five broad, supported by twenty four arches. Both parts of the city are adorned with great variety of magnificent buildings, the most remarkable of which I visited in this order.

Adjoining to the _Star_ inn, where his Excellency lodged, is the new convent of Irish _Cordeliers_; and in the same neighbourhood are two seminaries, one called that of the _Archbishop_, and the other that of _St. Norbert_, patron of this kingdom; both which profess academical learning, but in societies distinct from the university of the place.

Hence the way leads us to the townhouse, a large and stately building, which at one corner has a piece of clock work, giving the motions of the seven planets. On one side of this opens a fair piazza, with two curious pieces of workmanship. The first of these is a statue of the _B. Virgin_ trampling on the _Dragon_, erected on a stone pillar, on the pedestal of which are four _Angels_ defeating the like venomous monsters. This implies a triumphant declaration of her immaculate conception, and imitates that work before observed at _Vienna_. The second curiosity is a fountain of carved marble, with a basin of twelve sides, on which are cut very beautifully the twelve signs of the _Zodiac_.

From hence we pass to a college of Jesuits, a noble and spatious building. The church is a fine fabric, and prodigiously rich; the cloister large, and adorned with agreable pictures; among the rest are large tables divided into little squares, containing the short history and pourtraiture of the eminent persons of their order for preaching, missions, and conversions, among whom are a great number of English.

The same way leads us to the bridge above mentioned, and thence to another college of the Jesuits; but the third, and most splendid of this order, is in that part of _Prague_ called the new city, which we had not an opportunity of seeing.

We now turn to the right hand, and in an eminent part of the city are brought to the Emperor’s palace, old and irregular in outward appearance, but within its precincts is the old cathedral church, an handsome Gothic building of the year 923, as appears by an inscription on the chief altar. The stateliness of the old architecture, with the richness as well as beauty of the modern ornaments, make it a venerable pile. They have here a picture of the _Virgin_, which is pretended to be of _St. Luke’s_ hand. At the gate entering into this palace there is another in sight, which is the residence of the Archbishop.

From the cathedral we are carried to the _Capuchin_ cloister, which consists of a small but most beautiful quadrangle. Round the four sides, under a fair portico, are painted thirty different copies of so many of the most eminent and miraculous images of the _Virgin_, each in the proper garb, posture, and colours of the originals; and the remaining space of the wall beneath is filled with votive tables, in acknowledgement of favours received from each picture. I thought this collection observable, in that it is an apparent instance of the different representations of the _B. Virgin_, who is not invoked under the same character in all places, and on all occasions; but according to the fancy of the first painters, and the superstition of the late devotees, is split into so many distinct objects of worship; as the Lady _de Victoria_, _de Litera_, _de Consilio_, _Crysostomiana_, _Cyrilliana_, _Bernardina_, _Lauretana_, _Eremitana_, _Cellensis_, _Passaviensis_, _Wranoviensis_, _Hallensis_. As this shews how polytheism crept in among the heathen, who first of all worshiped God under so many distinct attributes, and afterwards as so many distinct beings; so it argues greater superstition in the church of Rome: for instead of the several characters of _Venus_, as _Cypria_, _Cytherea_, _Victrix_, and others; or of _Diana_, as _Aricinia_, _Leucophryne_, _Taurica_[139]; we have many more of _Sta. Maria_. In the middle of this quadrangle is an handsome imitation of the chapel of _Loretto_ with the _Virgin_ and our _Savior_ above the altar in the complection of _Moors_; and on the outside walls are various religious stories elegantly represented.

From hence we proceed to the celebrated cloister of Premonstratensians, called the _Shawhoff_ in which above an hundred persons are maintained in a princely manner. I was here shewn a rich chapel, wherein before the incursion of the Swedes were many large and curious statues of solid brass, particularly those of the twelve _Apostles_; which by Count _Koningsmarck_ were converted into canon, when he took this part of the city, tho he was soon again repulsed. In the middle of the church, in a stately open monument, is preserved the body of _St. Norbert_, the founder of this order. Over the tomb is suspended a gilt crown of a prodigious size, the diameter of the rimb being at least three ells. After the chapel I saw their library, which is neat and well filled, but with books in the taste of the last age. They have here a monkish contrivance of a wheeling desk with six sides, on each of which may lie several books, so as to be turned round in their order, without falling off in the motion. From the library we passed to their private chapel, wherein is a crucifix, which the monk, who shewed it us, attested to have seen illuminated in the night, while no candle was in the room. In an adjoining gallery is a large statue of our _Savior_, which they affirm to have once sweat blood about the neck, and shew the marks thereof still remaining. From hence we are carried to their winter refectory, a large and regular stove room, well contrived for warmth and beauty at the same time. But their summer refectory is a pattern of beauty, proportion, and magnificence, being paved with black and white marble, with three large windows on one side, and round the walls about twelve large pictures of eminent persons of their order; and the whole is exceedingly well contrived, both for the entertainment of the mind, and repose of the body. They shewed us likewise another large room, with a numerous collection of their most meritorious members in little squares; and last of all the chambers of the monks, with two adjoining gardens, one for the fathers, the other for the brethren of the society, which completed the pleasure of the sight.

Next to this convent we went to see a Jewish synagogue, of which there are eight in this place, the number of that nation amounting to above ten thousand, who for distinction sake are all obliged to wear a blue ruff.

On the stately bridge over the _Muldaw_ are to be observed several curious statues of the _Virgin_; of our _Savior_; and of the new _Saint_ lately set up in all parts of this kingdom, as well as on all the bridges of _Vienna_, being a curious piece of cast brass with this inscription:

DIVO IOANNI NEPOMENENO ANNO MCCCLXXXIII
AB HOC PONTE DEIECTO EREXIT MATTHIAS L. B.
DE WVNESWITZ ANNO MDCLXXXIII.

He was here drowned for not revealing to the King of Bohemia a confession of his Queen.

The famous university of this place, which in the time of _John Huss_ consisted of forty thousand students, is not even now so far diminished, but that when they have occasion to assault the Jews, or other citizens, they can muster about twelve thousand. They consist of young persons, not collected into regular societies, as with us, but lodging in private houses, from whence they repair to the public schools at the appointed hours of lecture. There are three of these schools, one in each part of the city, where all academical learning is professed by the ablest of the Jesuits; for these have the sole direction of the university, and are the only rich prevailing persons in Bohemia, particularly in the capital city, where they amount to the number of a thousand.

November xxiv.

This day we leave _Prague_, and proceed four miles, thro an open ploughed country, to _Sloney_. In the way we receive the confirmation of the good news, which we first heard at _Iglaw_; that seventeen Spanish galleons in the port of _Vigo_ were fallen under the power of our grand fleet, eleven being taken, and six sunk; and that the whole squadron of _Chateaurenault_, being twenty nine men of war, were either sunk or taken.

November xxv.

His Excellency continues yet at _Sloney_, a small but walled town, with a large market place, as usual in these parts. It was formerly a seat of protestants, and therefore barbarously destroyed by _Ferdinand_ the third. The day following we intend for _Launa_, three miles from hence; but the place being taken up for the quarters of five thousand Saxon soldiers, now moving against Bavaria, we lodge at _Clamston_, half an hour short of it; where we continue two days, by reason of a great quantity of snow, which then fell.

November xxix.

Leaving _Clamston_, at the distance of one quarter of a German mile we pass under the walls of _Launa_, and there cross the _Egra_ by a long wooden bridge, covered with a penthouse, as is usual in this country. From thence we come to _Bitin_, the estate of Prince _Lobcowitz_, where we bait one hour; and from thence proceed to _Deplitz_, the estate and seat of Count _Clery_, remarkable for an hot bath.

November xxx.

His Excellency from hence designed the straight road, by the way of _Framstein_, _Friburg_ (where are silver mines, and the tombs of the electors of Saxony) _Waltheim_, _Coldick_, _Walcowitz_, and so to _Leipsick_. In the mean time he permitted me to quit his retinue, in order to see _Dresden_. With this intent I take a post waggon from _Deplitz_ to _Peterswaldt_, the distance of two miles, in which I pass the hill of _Kaiasberg_. From _Peterswaldt_ I take a new post, and soon after I have left the town pass the boundary of _Bohemia_ and _Saxony_; and at two miles end changing post at a little village not far from _Pirn_, by this third post I come under its walls, and presently am upon the banks of the _Elbe_, along which I ride about half an hour, and then quitting the river arrive about five a clock at _Dresden_, being in all six miles from _Deplitz_. It being now dark, I repair immediately to my lodgings at the house of one _Leonard Serert_, betwixt the two market places, a civil host, who spoke both French and Italian. The way from _Peterswaldt_ to _Dresden_ is very agreable, being interspersed with woods of fir. The villages are better built, and more populous, than those of _Bohemia_; where indeed neither towns nor villages are thin, but the people very few, and those dejected with a sense of poverty and slavery, occasioned partly by the tyranny of the church, and partly by the constitution of the government, which makes the peasants slaves to their Lords, as in _Moravia_.

December i.

I continue at _Dresden_ this and the three following days, to observe the curiosities of the place. It is a neat well built town, with straight and fair streets, compact but not large, enclosed within a regular fortification, and a deep foss constantly filled with water. It stands upon the _Elbe_, over which it has a noble bridge, almost as long as that of _Prague_, supported by eighteen arches, and on each side affording a delightful prospect along the bending chanel of the water. By this bridge the city is joined to a neat suburb, called _Old Dresden_, the residence chiefly of merchants, among whom I found two Englishmen, Mr. Northleigh and Mr. Dealing, by both whom I was kindly treated. _Dresden_ was always the residence of the Electors of Saxony, till this present Elector was chosen King of _Poland_. However it is the ordinary seat both of the Electress, and the Prince, who is six years old; but both of them happened to be absent now. The Deputy of the Elector is the Prince of _Furstemberg_, who is of the Popish religion, but the whole town is intirely Lutheran. They have three churches, _St. Cross_, _Sta. Sophia_, and the chapel of the court. _St. Cross_ is a large antient Gothic building, well adorned in the inside, particularly with a carved and stately altar. The number of ministers is about twelve, whose revenue is very small, and therefore the people here complain, that they make up that defect by the abuses of confession. The palace is a fair stone building, consisting of two courts, of which the first is large and regular, adorned both within and without with very good carving, and painting in _fresco_, which deserves regard, particularly one part of it that fronts the street, and represents a _Roman triumph_. The gardens are likewise curious, and the riding school is remarkably spatious; but what obscures every thing else in _Dresden_, and perhaps all others of the same kind in Germany, is the _kunstkammer_, with the arsenal, and stable of the Elector. Each of these are shewn to strangers at the price of three florins, the curiosities of which I reduced into a catalogue. On the bridge at _Dresden_ is erected a curious brass _crucifix_, not inferior to that of _Prague_ in the workmanship, but far exceeding it in design, and bearing an inscription, that disavows all superstitious worship.

December iv.

At six a clock this evening, it being then very dark, I take a passage in the ordinary post chaise for _Leipsick_, paying four florins for the space of thirteen German miles. By ten at night we come to _Misten_, and there cross the _Elbe_ over a large covered bridge. The benefit of the star light gives me opportunity to observe some part of the town, particularly the castle seated on very high ground. Hence we continue our journey all night, till about ten a clock the next morning we come to _Wurzen_, where we dine; and then ferrying over the _Muldaw_, now a large and rapid river, after having endured a cold and severe snow all the day, we arrive at _Leipsick_ about five a clock in the afternoon, where I provide myself with a private lodging.

December vi.

This morning his Excellency and his retinue arrive at _Leipsick_ by eleven a clock, and lodge at the _Golden hen_ in the high street, to which place I therefore now remove myself.

_Leipsick_ is a neat and compact place, well built, the streets almost straight, and conveniently wide. The market place is a regular quadrangle, surrounded with fair and lofty houses, among which is the town hall, or court of justice. Not far from the market is another small square, at one end of which is a new and spatious room, to which we ascend by stone steps. This serves for an exchange, where the merchants meet. The city has three large churches, one of _St. Nicholas_, another of _St. Thomas_, and a third called the _New Church_. These are all well beautified within, especially that of _St. Nicholas_, the altar of which is a neat pile, representing in good sculpture the burial and resurrection of our _Savior_, his shewing his wounds to _St. Thomas_ and the other disciples, and over the whole his ascension in a cloud. At the upper end of the two outward isles are painted two good pieces of perspective. The town has no public buildings, besides an old castle, and a new hospital; the latter of which serves both for the reception of lunatics, and also a house of correction for vagabonds. The fortification is regular, and of the new fashion, but not of any great importance; however it has a foss, that may be filled with water upon occasion from the _Pleiss_, which washes the walls of the city.

The town is governed by a senate of twenty three, of whom three, called _Burgomasters_, have the prime authority; and by a chief magistrate, who has the title of _consul_, and is chosen annually. The present consul is one _Romanus_, a young gentleman of great fortune, and vast designs; who is erecting a noble palace in the city, built of free stone. Among the senators are several persons of quality, who have fair estates, and a learned education.

There is a good library belonging to the city, lately purchased at the expence of the senators, and which they daily improve by new accessions. Among the citizens of this rank and character I contracted an acquaintance with Mr. _Wagner_, who speaks good English, and has been long preparing a comment on the obscurities of Barclay’s _Euphormio_, concerning which he has commissioned me to make several enquiries. Another person of the like learning and civility is Mr. _Graevius_ (brother to the eminent critic in Holland) who has the care of the city library, and favoured me with the sight of it. These with many other particulars, that might be mentioned, are arguments of a rich and flourishing city; which is occasioned partly from the confluence of students to the university; and partly from the benefit of three celebrated fairs of fourteen days each, which are annually kept here, and furnished with merchandizes of all sorts, not only from the several parts of Germany, but likewise from Italy, Hungary, France, Holland, England, and other countries.