Chapter I: O. M. Et Diis (3)

The staple commodities of the town are the linen manufacture, and a natural blue earth, which is dug only in some metalic mines of Saxony, and which to the vast advantage of this place is exported from hence to England, Holland, and elsewhere, for the use of dying. As to the execution of justice, adultery is here a capital crime, but in this case the criminal must be convicted by his own confession, to which they oblige him by force of torture. The beauty of the city, which appears to a good advantage by day light, is however not lost in the night, by means of their new lamps, which are ranged in an orderly manner, stand very close to each other, and are kept with great neatness. The gardens of the principal gentlemen, and merchants here resident, are without the fortifications; and being as well exceeding rich, as beautified with great art, add a noble ornament to the place.

The university is in a flourishing state, and has a true taste of polite literature, especially as to philosophical studies. Tho I know not whether they merit that character with regard to classical learning. It is not now so numerous as formerly; because _Hall_, which within these ten years has been erected into an university by the King of _Prussia_, depriving them of their numbers, has reduced them perhaps from three to one thousand students. They have six colleges, called _Paulinum_, _Petrinum_, _Majorum_ and _Minorum Principum_, _Rubrum_, and _B. Mariae Virginis_. Each of these have their _praepositus_, and some few stipends. But when we mention academical colleges abroad, we must fall much below the idea of those, with which we are so happily acquainted at _Oxford_ and _Cambridge_. In these colleges are their auditories, or schools, of public lectures for philosophy, and the three superior faculties. These are regularly taught by their respective professors, of which the university is furnished with six in divinity, five in law, four in physic, and nine in philosophy, humanity, and history. Besides these, several of the more eminent doctors, and elder students, have their private lectures, to which the younger resort at their pleasure, and this with greater frequency and better success, than to the lectures publicly established. The degrees in philosophy are that of batchelor and master of arts; in the faculties, of licentiate and doctor. Persons of note in the university, whom I visited, were Dr. _Efficke_ professor of divinity; and Dr. _Otto Menchenius_ professor of moral philosophy, who is likewise the editor of the _Acta Eruditorum_, of which I purchased an intire set from the year 1682 to this present time, consisting of twenty five volumes in _quarto_. Other eminent persons, with whom I had a more frequent conversation, were Dr. _Goëtze_, Dr. _Menchenius junior_, and Mr. _Olearius junior_. The two former are doctors of law, and the latter professor of humanity. To these I may add Mr. _Thomas Fritsel_ bookseller, a person who has made an useful tour over Europe; speaks several modern languages, as well as Latin; and to whom I was obliged for a particular mark of courtesy, and the present of several useful books. Not only he, but the three gentlemen last mentioned speak good English, which language is much esteemed and studied in this place. Dr. _Menchenius_ shewed me the little work of _Alcyonius De exilio_, which I was glad to see, because it is said to have been compiled out of _Cicero’s_ treatise _De gloria_; which the plagiary for that reason took occasion to suppress. Dr. _Goëtze_ among several fair manuscripts, and old editions of classic authors, shewed me a neat but antient satyr _On the Pope and Court of Rome_. It is a manuscript, as yet unprinted, in Elegiac verse, entitled _Eironeia Gaufridi_. He has also a curious and fair manuscript of _Columella_, another of a Greek _Menologion_, a very old _Greek Testament_, printed in Spain, with the Latin in the margin; but exactly referring in every word by cautious notes from the known to the unknown language, lest the monks of that time should have taken γενέσεως to signify _liber_, and βίβλος _generationis_. In another old Spanish book, concerning the antiquities of that country, he shewed me a copy of the old Gothic character; in which it is observable, that the vowels are generally incorporated with the consonants, which they follow.

In the two libraries of this place, the one belonging to the university, the other to the senate, I took notice of the following curiosities.

In the former I observed two celebrated pictures of _Luther_ and _Melancthon_, both taken after their death. Several specimens of what they called _moneta bracteata_, lately found in Saxony; but which I take to have been only leaves of silver covering a mass of inferior metal. An old manuscript of _Homer_, with large _Scholia_, which they here think have never been published. The draught of an old _idol_ worshiped in Germany; the original of which was a short brass image of an human figure, hollow within, and contrived to make an artificial wind issue out of his mouth, like the globes of that sort now become so common.

In the library of the senate I observed an Egyptian _mummy_. Several Roman _urns_ and _funeral lamps_. Saxon _urns_, like others which I observed at _Dresden_ and elsewhere, full of thin fragments of bones; in one of which were found several small iron and brass instruments, and upon a thin plate of brass the two following letters, ⲱ. ⲉ. A fine collection of coins. A good manuscript of _Theocritus_. A noble specimen of the rich silver mines in Saxony, in a mass about three feet long and two broad, the whole of which almost is pure metal.

Adjoining to the _Collegium Paulinum_ is the university church, where they have prayers on festival days. It is full of antient and modern monuments, all of good work. This university took its rise from the dispersion of the _Hussites_, and the banishment of _John Huss_ himself from _Prague_. And by its first constitution it is appropriated to four nations; the _Misnians_ (of whom _Leipsick_ is the metropolis) the other hereditary countries of the Elector of _Saxony_, the _Bavarians_, and the _Poles_. The chief magistrate annually elected here is called _rector magnificus_, as in other German universities; and in him, with his subordinate officers, rests the sole government and jurisdiction of this learned body. The present _rector_ is Dr. _Cyprianus_, professor of divinity.

It was in _Leipsick_, that I first observed the Lutheran manner of communicating. The priest and the deacon, who assists him, are habited in surplices, copes, and sleeves, like those of the Greeks and Romanists. The service is chanted by the priests standing, and the people round about at a distance, but in the same posture. The consecration being ended, the communicants draw near, and on the north side of the altar approach the priest, who delivers into the mouth of each of them still standing the consecrated wafer. The communicants from thence walk round the back part of the altar, and so come to the deacon, from whom they likewise standing receive the cup, and thence return orderly to their proper places. In the mean time, while the species are delivered by the priest on one side and the deacon on the other, two choristers habited likewise in copes and surplices attend each, holding under them a rich pall of velvet, or other stuff, to receive any particle of the elements, which may fall accidentally. This done, they likewise chant a thanksgiving service in a standing posture, and so depart. The ecclesiastics of the place wear large white ruffs, not only in time of divine service, but likewise as their ordinary habit when in public; and with this a round cloth cap, like that lately alloted to the commoners in the university of _Oxford_.

These are the principal observations I had leisure to make at _Leipsick_, where his Excellency staid from the sixth to the fourteenth of this month. On this day therefore we proceed on our journey five German miles to _Hall_ over an open arable country. This is an antient city, founded and perfected by the several _Othos_, Emperors of Germany. It is now large, but meanly built, tho famous for its salt pits, from whence it has the name of _Hall_. In these they work night and day with an uninterrupted diligence, nor ever cease, but in the time of divine service on Sundays. It is situated on the river _Sala_, which name corresponds with that of the city.

The King of _Prussia_, as has been said, Sovereign of the place, opened an university here some years since, which at present flourishes with about a thousand students, and several professors of eminent note, among these are _Strychius_, _Thomasius_, and _Franckius_. The last is the person, who sent me formerly into Turkey several little tracts of his own composition, which had been translated into Latin and Italian, in order to be distributed here. I therefore visited him this evening, and discoursed with him upon his famous project of an ample charity; by which he maintains above six hundred children of both sexes, and that by no other fund, than collections gathered by his own industry. Three hundred of these, being boys, he has reduced to a college, which he now calls the _Orphanotrophium_. It is an handsome building, well contrived for the reception of so many poor orphans, for their diet, lodging, schooling, clothing, and afterwards their removal to some proper calling. He has here a printing house for the use of the society, and from thence have now been published several treatises, of which he presented me with two, concerning the _Jewish_ history, and the ecclesiastical government of _Bohemia_. The King of _Prussia_, who is thought the principal supporter of this great charity, has lately authorized the _Orphanotrophium_ under an ample patent, and allowed both the society, and the founder of it, several honourable and advantageous privileges. By this great undertaking Mr. _Franck_ proposes to lay a scheme and foundation for the reformation of manners, and better advancement of learning at the same time. But as he is one of the primary _Pietists_ in all Germany, the opposite party among the Lutherans in these parts, who in distinction call themselves the _Orthodox_, cease not to calumniate both him and his design. Tho how justly, God only knows. He delivered me a packet for Mr. _Ludolf_, and commissioned me to salute Dr. _Bray_, and Mr. _Woodward_ of _Stepney_, with whom he corresponds in relation to this intended reformation.

December xv.

From _Hall_ we now pass to _Koendern_, and by the way cross the _Sala_ in a ferry boat at _Alsleber_, leaving _Eisleben_, the birth place of _Luther_, a little on the right hand. The day following we continue our journey from _Koendern_ to _Aschersleben_, leaving _Paidleburg_ in sight on the left hand. And the next day we move forward to _Halberstadt_, palling from _Upper_ into _Lower Saxony_ in this day’s journey. _Halberstadt_ is a large town, subject to the King of _Prussia_, having about fourteen churches, which are pretty equally divided betwixt Protestants and Papists.

December xviii.

This day we leave _Halberstadt_ and proceed to _Hessen_, a small village belonging to _Rodolphus Augustus_, Duke of _Brunswick_; who has here an old moted house, with a pleasant garden, and a fountain of brass work, which for the variety of animals there artfully represented, and the device of the whole, deserves to be remarked. We continue here the two following days, and then set out for _Wolfembutel_, where we arrive at night, and lodge in the suburbs.

December xxii.

His Excellency departed this morning from _Wolfembutel_ with a design to go directly to _Hildesheim_; upon which I desire leave to take a different road, in order to see _Brunswick_, _Hanover_, and _Hamburg_. However I spent this day at _Wolfembutel_, in observing what was curious there.

The town is pleasantly seated on the river _Ocker_, in a place not so intirely level as the other parts of _Lower Saxony_, but enjoying a variety of rising and declining ground, with a convenient mixture of woods, which hitherto we observed to be intirely wanting from _Leipsick_ to this place. The city is compactly built, has fair and large streets, tho no very stately edifices, and is well fortified with a regular wall, and a double foss. It has two remarkable churches, one of which is the cathedral, an old Gothic building, adorned with a variety of sculpture and statues; and the other is a new church, lately erected by the present Duke of this place, in a peculiar form. It has an ascent at the front by a handsome staircase on two sides, and then opens into a perfect oval, which is supported by six stately pillars, and covered with a cupola. Directly facing the door is a piece of good work in sculpture, representing the _Virgin_, and other religious figures; and under this in a small orbicular desk, which appears as an ornament of the work, is seen the pulpit. Underneath is a table of wood, set so distinct from the wall, that it cannot properly be called an altar, and at each end are two high steps for the kneeling of the communicants. For the Lutherans, who in some places communicate standing, do the same in others kneeling; and the notion of an altar, with the posture of receiving, are in their opinion things indifferent. The castle of this place (which alone is properly _Wolfembutel_) is just without the wall of the city, and is the residence of the Duke. He has here an academy for the use of young gentlemen of all nations, where they are instructed in the arts of fencing, riding, dancing, and other exercises. But what is most remarkable, in the precincts of the castle is the celebrated library, founded by _Christianus Augustus_, the father of this Prince. It consists of two large and spatious galleries, ranged all round with books, and filled in the middle with a double row of desks, which in the inner gallery likewise contain shelves for books of lesser volumes. It was collected with great assiduity, and at a vast expence, by the said Prince; who himself employed his pains intirely in this design, and wrote the several catalogues digested in various orders, and consisting of eight volumes in _folio_, with his own hand. The present librarian is the famous Mr. _Leibnitz_, who at this time did not reside upon the place; but an assistant of his shewed the library, and observed to me the following curiosities. A collection of printed _Bibles_, the largest and most curious, which are any where to be found. A large manuscript _English Bible_ in _folio_, which seems very antient and begins thus: _In the erste made God of nought the hevens and the ery, and the ery forsooth was vein and veyd, and darknesses weren upon the face of the zee._ At the bottom of the first page is wrote _Lumley_ in later characters. A manuscript _Greek Testament_; and two printed copies, one of _Aldus_ and the other at _Hagenoa_, in which is wanting that famous testimony of _St. John_ concerning the three, that bear witness in heaven. An antient manuscript of _St. Jerome’s Bible_, written about four hundred years since, by one who subscribes himself _Abbas Gaufridus Vitulus_; and at the end of the same has delineated himself, with the head of a _calf_. A manuscript _Aethiopic Testament_, given by father _Kircher_ to the founder of the library. A copy of the _Psalms_, written in those characters, which are called _Ciceroniani_ and _Cyprianici_. A voluminous collection of modern _Histories_, in four hundred manuscript volumes in _folio_; among which are thirteen called _Chroniques d’Angleterre_. The whole number cost the Duke two thousand four hundred crowns; but it is thought, he purchased them much to dear. A fair turning desk with six leaves, like that before described in the Praemonstratensian library at _Prague_. A fair _Herbal_, with each flower delineated in its proper colours. A roll of the _Pentateuch_, and a vail now used by the Jews in reading the _Law_. Several reliques of _Luther_, as his spoon, drinking glass, leaden inkbottle, and a _Letter_ in his own hand to one of his contemporary bishops, in which he sends the salutes of his wife in these words: _Salutat te, Dominus meus, Ketha reverenter._ Two books written by Prince _Christian_ himself, founder of the library: one _De ludo scacchia_, in the German language; the other in _folio_, called _Cryptographia_, treating of cyphers and other secret devices, in the title of which he calls himself _Gustavus Selenus_, meaning _Augustus Luneburgicus_. A fair edition of the _vulgate Latin Bible_ by _Aldus_ at _Venice_, which reads in _Genesis_ iii. 15, _Ipsum conteret caput tuum_, instead of the usual _ipsa_.

The present Duke _Antonius Ulricus_, and his brother _Rudolphus Augustus_, who resides at _Brunswick_, have the title of _Brunswick_ and _Lunenburg_ in common with their eldest brother the Duke of _Zell_, and their nephew the Duke of _Hanover_. But their proper government is the territory of _Brunswick_ and _Wolfembutel_ which they govern by joint name and authority, both being equally sovereign in each. _Rudolphus_ is about seventy two years of age, plain and unaffected in his carriage, insomuch that sometimes he takes a private journey to _Hamburg_ where he walks the streets in the disguise of a country gentleman. But _Antonius_ is a more polite and accomplished prince, affecting the French behaviour and education; for which end he here maintains the academy above mentioned He is courtly, and condescending, and greatly beloved by his subjects. He is now about sixty three years of age, and has two sons; of which he, who shall live to be his heir, will jointly inherit the authority and dominions both of his father and uncle _Rudolphus_.

December xxiii.

This morning I take the post waggon for _Brunswick_, which is seated on the same river as _Wolfembutel_, in a watry plain, having a large extent, but narrow streets, and houses of the old fashion almost intirely of wood, most of which have a date over the door of three or four hundred years standing. The stadthouse is of the same or greater antiquity, and adorned with a variety of statues on the outside. The town is fortified, but neither with great regularity nor strength. The castle is the residence of the Duke, being an old decayed building. I staid here from nine in the morning till three in the afternoon, where I found the mum, for which this place is so celebrated, not so good, as that they export for sale. It is made only of malt well brewed, and the liquor boiled a second time in an equal quantity of the same. However the art is peculiar to this place, and cannot be imitated at _Wolfembutel_, tho it is so very near. Nor, on the other hand, can the excellent beer of _Wolfembutel_ be equal’d here. They are likewise famous for a large sort of sausage, which is made of raw meat and spices.

At three a clock I depart for _Hanover_ by the way of _Peine_, with an intention, as is here the custom, to travel all night. In the way betwixt seven and eight a clock (which at this time of the year had been entirely dark, unless for the benefit of the moon) the post horses tired in an open feild, and refused to stir a step farther; by which means we were detained above an hour, till the postilion procured others from a neighbouring village. I was then in company of an Italian man and a French woman, whose company somewhat relieved the affliction of this accident. By twelve a clock we reach _Peine_, and after half an hour’s refreshment the Italian and I proceed for _Hanover_, thro a wide and watry common.

December xxiv.

By eight a clock this morning I arrive at _Hanover_, where I wait on Mr. _Cresset_, and his chaplain Mr. _Lombard_. And being invited by the former to diner, we no sooner rise from table, but news was brought, that my Lord Paget, having changed his mind, had turned out of the road for _Heldesheim_ to this place; to whom therefore I repair at his lodgings without the gate of the city.

December xxv.

Tho this was _Christmas_ day, his Excellency had nevertheless no service in his family. And the day following I made a visit to Mr. Scott, Sir Chumley Deering, Mr. Wright, and some others. The next day being Sunday, his Excellency had service in his family. At five a clock in the evening I was introduced by Mr. Scott, and lady Belmont, to kiss the hand of the Princess Dowager _Sophía_, who did me the honour to discourse with me half an hour about the state of Turkey. The same night a tragedy was acted at the theatre of the court, and afterwards the _Mariage forcé_ of _Moliere_; which I then saw, for the opportunity of seeing at the same time the Prince Elector, the Prince his son, and the Princess his daughter, with the Electress Dowager, who were all present.

December xxviii.

His Excellency proceeds in his way to _Osnaburg_; but I continue still at _Hanover_, with an intention to take post for _Hamburg_, and dine this day with Mr. _Cresset_. The day following in the afternoon I visit the library and cabinet of Abbot _Gerhardus_, otherwise called _Molanus_. His cabinet consists of a vast collection of modern coins, particularly those of Germany, among which he has intire sets of the houses of _Brunswick_ and _Saxony_. He has likewise a rich and numerous collection of medals of all the European kingdoms, stampt upon the most celebrated occasions; and many of them are gold, some of which weigh an hundred ducats, and others but little less. Those of _Sweden_ seemed to me the noblest both for the work and device, particularly one of _Gustavus Adolphus_, upon marching his army over the frozen _Baltick_, with this inscription: NATURA HOC DEBVIT VNI. Another of _Charles_ the eleventh, with the reverse of the _North star_, and inscribed: NESCIT OCCASVM. Those of the house of _Hanover_ are likewise curious, particularly one of the Princess Dowager, stampt by her about fourteen years since; the reverse a _sun_ setting without a cloud, and the words: _Senza turbarmi al fin m’accosto._ Another of the young Prince _George Augustus_, the reverse a _fountain_ springing up in a strong perpendicular column of water, with this legend: VIS INSITA DVCIT IN ALTVM. Besides these he has a good collection of antient medals; the most remarkable of which were _Julianus_ the first; and _Antinous_ of the first size, if genuine, the reverse a _sheep_.

By eleven a clock this night I depart in the post waggon for _Zell_, and in the way make these observations on _Hanover_, and the persons I saw there. The town is moderately large, fair, and compact, seated on the _Leine_, and reasonably well fortified. The palace of the Prince is old, and mean in outward appearance, but within beautiful and splendid. The clergy here is but meanly esteemed, and more meanly provided for; except that Abbot _Gerhardus_ has an income (the sole remainder of church lands not sequestered) to the yearly value of eight hundred pounds sterling. By this preferment he is superintendent of the whole clergy in the territories of the Duke of _Brunswick Hanover_, and is by the same incapable of marrying. The Elector is a sage, discreet, just, and sober Prince. The Princess his mother is courteous, affable, condescending, and prudent; well versed in the Dutch, English, French, and Italian languages; and gay and vigorous to a miracle at the age of seventy two. The young Prince is brisk, affable, and ingenious. The Princess, daughter to the Elector, comely, ingenious, lively, and her courteous behaviour charms all, who converse with her. Mr. _Cresset_, who has long resided as Envoy to this court, and those of _Zell_, _Brunswick_, and _Wolfembutel_, is a wise and pious gentleman, has a family well governed, and lives much to the honour of himself and his country.

December xxx.

By seven a clock this morning I arrive at _Zell_, where I remain the rest of the day, and take that opportunity of seeing the castle; as likewise the venerable old Duke, _William George_, now eighty years of age; to whom I was admitted by the favour of Mr. _Robbeton_ and Mr. _De la Forest_, two gentlemen who here shewed me great civility.

December xxxi.

I set forward from _Zell_, and lodge this night at a post house, in a small village called _Sorndorf_. The country is here pleasant, with a variety of fir, oak, and other wood, but for the most part barren, and overrun, with heath.

January i.

From _Sorndorf_ I reach _Harburg_ by twelve a clock this day, dine there, and then take boat for _Hamburg_ cross the _Elbe_. The river is here above a German mile broad, and interspersed with various islands. In the evening I delivered Mr. _Cresset’s_ recommendations to Mr. Aldersey, who thereupon received me courteously, and procured me a good lodging from Mr. Townly in the English house. I was detained here to the twenty eighth of this month, partly by the extremity of the frost, which had made the _Elbe_ now unpassable; and partly by the kindness of our English merchants, who reside in this place.

_Hamburg_ is a free imperial city, chief of the _Hanse_ towns, and seated on the north side of the _Elbe_, where it receives the _Alster_. The figure of it is semicircular, being almost straight towards the _Elbe_, which it receives by many chanels into the very heart of the city. Some of these chanels serve as harbours to the ships, others to convey goods to the magazines of merchants, and others to bring water to the houses, particularly of the brewers, who have cranes to draw water into their vessels. It is about two Italian miles in length, and above five in circumference. The streets are well paved, tho narrow, and the houses beautiful in the front, especially in the _Wantrum_, the _Green_, and _Catherine_ street. The fortifications are substantial, consisting intirely of ramparts of earth, covered with grass, and not faced with brick. They are constantly maintained in good repair; tho it is commonly objected to them, that the inward works are too high, so that being raised too much above the outward, they are exposed to the first attack of the enemy. There are six gates, all beautiful and stately buildings; that particularly, which is called the gate of _Altena_, because it leads to that place, is said to have cost an hundred thousand crowns. The strength of the city was lately tried, in the year 1686 (If I mistake not) by the King of _Denmark_, who then laid siege to it, tho without success. He had depended upon the treachery of two principal burgers, who had promised to admit him into the town; but their treason being accidentally detected, and they put to the torture, the matter was soon confessed, and they deservedly executed. The head of one of them is still exposed on an iron Spike over the _Steingate_. In confidence of this concerted treachery that Prince came so unprovided, that he could invest no more of the town, than that which faces _Altena_ which gave occasion to the Holland _gazeteer_ to say, that the King of _Denmark_ had besieged the eighth part of _Hamburg_. During the siege he was baffled even by the small castle, called _Sternfort_, about a mile distant from the town; which by a line of communication they releived every day at twelve a clock, and so maintained it against the enemy. To add to the strength of the city they are now building a new detached work, consisting of an intire rampart, to be continued from the east side of the _Alster_ to the _Elbe_, which is a noble fortification, and will at the same time guard and enlarge the space of the city. It is divided into the _New_ and the _Old City_, the former of which is the more stately and beautiful of the two.

The religion of this place is Lutheran, in which the government is so strict, as to admit of no other religious assembly, except that of the church of England, which is allowed to the English company. The city is divided into five parishes, that of _St. Catharine_, _St. Peter_, _St. James_, _St. Nicholas_, and _St. John_. To each of these are dedicated so many fair and spatious churches, all well adorned with sculptures, paintings, organs, and altars. That of _St. Catharine_ exceeds the rest, and is particularly remarkable for a noble stone pulpit, the whole consisting of the bed marble, carved into the figures of the twelve _Apostles_, and other religious devices; for several large inimitable pieces of painting in _fresco_ against the north wall; and for a stately organ, supposed to be the largest and finest in the world. It has fifty four stops, and consists of five thousand pipes, all gradually proportioned from the biggest, which is three fourths of an English yard in diameter, to the least, no larger than the last joint of ones little finger. In the same church is admirably well painted the _Temple of Solomon_ in perspective. Besides these parish churches, there is the cathedral, commonly there called the _Dome_; and a new church in the middle of the _New City_. The _Dome_ is now almost out of use, except for some occasional sermons; and the porch, with the several isles, are possessed by booksellers shops: tho this is what is likewise common to the porches, and other outward apartments, of the most frequented churches. The five parish churches, and that of the _New City_, have each of them their pastor, and besides him two or three chaplains; so that the number of clergymen here amounts to above twenty, of which one is superintendant over them, and the clergy of the whole territory. This however is very small, as not reaching down the river _Elbe_ farther than the limits of _Altena_, a large town within half a mile of _Hamburg_, belonging to the King of _Denmark_. On the other sides it is encompassed with the dominions of the Duke of _Holstein_, at the distance of two or three miles; only up the _Elbe_ it has a narrow tract of ground subject to the city, for the space of twenty miles, in which are some small villages, that acknowledge its jurisdiction. The church lands belonging to the cathedral are now possessed by burgers, or others of the city; but under the same titles, by which they formerly belonged to the church, as _dean_, _canons_, and others. Which sequestration, as it seems to be a sacrilegious usurpation; so their continuing the right under the same titles, is only a monument and confession of the crime.

The government of the city is by a free and sovereign jurisdiction of their own, which is lodged in three orders of men, the burgomasters, the senate, and the burgers. The burgomasters are four persons chosen out of the senate, of which two are yearly regent. The senate consists of about twenty, chosen as vacancies happen out of the burgers. The burgers compose the whole body of the citizens, ranked under their five distinct parishes. This government some what resembles that of antient _Rome_, by consuls, senate, and people; and is excellent in itself, but very liable to be perverted by the prevalency of any of the parts, of which it consists. This is at present seen in the case of _Hamburg_, where the burgers by reason of their multitude, and the seditious spirit of inferior persons, have so far usurped the power of the place, that they terrify the senate, and stop all public proceedings, which are not to their relish. Particularly they are now so obstinate, as to refuse their consent to the supply towards the war, required by the Emperor, and to other public levies of the city, till they can extort the consent of the senate for restoring one Dr. _Meyer_ to his pastoral office of _St James_. This is a violent seditious man, suspected of an ill life, but of a ready overbearing eloquence in the pulpit; who, about five years since had quitted his pastoral office in _Hamburg_, for another like charge, and superintendency in _Pomerania_. His parishioners now recall him to his cure at _Hamburg_, which he publicly declines; but privately encourages, and thereby occasions a lamentable faction and sedition in the town. His own and two other parishes press his return, and refuse to treat of other business, till the senate shall consent thereto. But they being duly cautious of admitting so dangerous a person into the city, who is now more particularly suspected of intriguing against them, in dependence on the King of Sweden, will never admit thereof; especially as he insists upon returning in his own rank, and in prospect of the same seniority, he before obtained in the place.

The burgomasters of this place never appear in public, but in a peculiar dress; which consists of an high crowned hat made of cloth, plated thick and strong in numerous folds; with a large ruff; and a black velvet coat ending at the knees, and plaited from the middle. There are likewise several other antient habits used by all public persons, even to midwives, dressers of the dead, and those who bear the corps to funerals. The habit of their divines is a round black cap, a ruff, and a gown without sleeves. All these may commonly be seen at once in the solemnity of a funeral, which they here affect to make very pompous for all persons, even those of little children. The burgomasters, senators, divines, lawyers, physicians, and as many of all sorts, as they can procure, attend the corps from the house to the church; for which they are each paid a certain fee, the chief about a florin, and inferiors proportionably. It is observable, that the bearers of the corps have a peculiar step, all moving their leg at the same time croswise from one side to the other.

This city wholly subsists by trade, which it still enjoys to a great degree. But they now complain, that they begin to be robbed of their former flourishing commerce by _Lubeck_ and _Bremen_, and even the poor town of _Altena_, which with regret they see rising under their walls. Here is the staple of linen from Germany; cloth from England; and wines from Spain, France, and the Rhine. Of this last the city preserves a vast stock in public cellars; the largest of which, being a magazine of _Rhenish_ wine, I visited one evening, and was there assured, that they have the wine of every year since 1623; and accordingly we then drank of three sorts, 1623, 1664, and 1678. At the same time I tried the perfect clearness of the loaf sugar of this place; which they purify to such a degree, that it does not discolour the cleared _Rhenish_ wine.

The English company, which upon the decay of _Antwerp_ removed to this place, is a regular, gentile, and hospitable society of merchants. They were here granted large privileges, which they still enjoy; tho at home our English parliament has lately infringed those, which they had permitted them. Their goods from England are imported free of custom, except that they pay a trifle as an acknowledgement. Their own jurisdiction, and religion, is freely granted them. The town first presented them with a large piece of building, which they obliged themselves to keep in perpetual repair. In this there is a public chapel; and an apartment, which they call the _Ordinary room_, where all the company, who are unmarried, dine and sup at one table, and the deputy governor and assistants meet upon public occasions. Adjoining to it is the house of the deputy governor, the minister, and the secretary; all likewise given by the town, and maintained by them. The governor of this company at present resides in England; but the other officers, as the deputy governor, secretary, and assistants, to the number of twenty four, are all resident upon the place, and dispatch all business relating to the society; which is contrary to the custom of the Turkey company, the governing part whereof always resides in England. The deputy governor and secretary are chosen, or confirmed, either quarterly or yearly; and the same is practised with the minister, whose salary, besides the benefit of an house, is two hundred pounds a year. The number of merchants, assistants, and others, may here amount from thirty to forty persons; and with their wives, children, and servants, their congregation (which is very regular) is seen on Sunday from an hundred and fifty to two hundred persons. My conversation during my stay at _Hamburg_ was chiefly among these; and I had more particularly the friendship of Mr. Free, deputy governor; Mr. Aldersey, secretary; Mr. Emerson, minister; Mr. Stratford, Manning, Lethieullier, and Remington merchants; and their respective families. I preached every Sunday, while I continued here; and received many tokens of favour from the whole company; particularly on the sixteenth of January, a present of a silver tankard, value forty crowns. At the same time I had the honour of being known to Mr. Wyat, her Majesty’s resident at this place, and deputed likewise to the _Hanse_ towns of _Bremen_ and _Lubeck_.

There is a good and well furnished library belonging to this city, which adjoins to the church of _St. John_. And during my stay here I had the opportunity of conversing with _Jo. Albertus Fabricius_, a person of great learning, and famous for some works he has already published. I visited likewise _Mynhéer Langerman_, a druggist, who shewed me some curious _ores_; and _pieces of eight_, fished up from a Spanish wreck; with the _piedra de puerco_, about the size of a large nutmeg, which is found in the bladder of some hogs in the _Philippine_ islands, a great sudorific, and esteemed a sovereign remedy against intermitting fevers. One stone is usually valued at a hundred ducats.

The night I visited the wine cellar at Mr. Manning’s house, we saw a man, named _George Po_, born at _Prague_, who eat raw flesh, glass, paper, and above all things raw flax and tow, which he devoured very greedily, and called it his chief delicacy. He likewise swallows large stones, and accustoms himself to devour all unnatural substances, even perukes; tho of this last he is now somewhat cautious, since his twin brother died by eating one at _Halberstadt_. A senator’s wife of this city maintains an opera house, where they have a prodigious large stage, and great variety of well painted scenes. Here Mr. Lethieullier one night entertained us to our great satisfaction. At the same place, and belonging to the same woman, is shewn the famous model of _Solomon’s Temple_, being the exact resemblance of that fabric, as described by the best authors, expressed in every part by carved wood work to the hight of an English yard, and all the inward apartments perfectly exhibited to the eye, as the workman takes it to pieces for the satisfaction of the spectators. This ingenious machine cost no less than ten thousand dollars.

The inhabitants of _Hamburg_ are censured as proud, formal, and ceremonious; the magistrates as addicted to vice, libertinism, and self interest; and the people as turbulent, and seditious; whence many prognosticate ill to the trade, and future power of the city. The language, which they here speak, is called the _Plat Dutch_, being a medium betwixt that of Germany and Holland.

During my stay here, I was informed of a detestable practice, frequent among many melancholy and disordered persons of this place; who being weary of life, and apprehensive of the sin of self murder, rather choose to murder some innocent child, and by that means to be brought to capital punishment, by which they attain their desire of death, with the advantage, as they imagine, of a previous time for repentance, without the guilt of their own hand. At the same time they esteem the child, whom they choose to sacrifice, to be without any guilt of conscience, as having not yet arrived to years of discretion[140]. This tragedy happens every year, as many experienced witnesses among our merchants assured me; and they attribute the frequency of the practice to the great facility of their confessors, in affording peace and fair promises to all sorts of dying penitents.

Another tragedy lately acted at _Hamburg_ was of a monstrous virago, born in the dukedom of _Zell_, who by an unnatural disposition of her uterine parts was capable of acting the part of a man; and accordingly she made it her practice in rambling from place to place to marry at each a young woman, several of whom she had murdered. With her last spouse, whom she had let into all her mysterious impiety, she murdered one of her former wives; as likewise a man, whom they had cajoled for sometime into their company, and whose head they afterwards boiled for venefical uses, as they pretended. But being caught and tortured, they confessed this black history of their life, and were executed here about a year since.

The campain about the neighbourhood of _Hamburg_ is green, and well distinguished with wood and shade; but at a farther distance, like other parts of _Lower Saxony_, it is a dull and unfruitful heath. The immediate circuit of the walls affords delicious walks, all kept in good repair, and adorned on each side with rows of trees, kept in a beautiful order. Sometime after we had received the account of the capture of the Spanish galleons at _Vigo_, happening to have a leisure hour, I amused myself in writing the following short poem upon that agreable subject.

_Erit altera, quae vehat Argo_
_Delectos heroas._ Virg. Ecl. iv. ℣. 34.

_Hactenus Argoos cecinisti, Graecia, nautas,_
_Et rudis aethereo pinus in axe micat;_
_Altera Britannas nunc implet Iberia puppes,_
_Terraque Phrixeam Cantabra mittit ovem._
_Alter es Aeëtes, Lodoix, vinctusque sopore_
_Aeterno serpens Gallica classis erit._
_Aesoniden, Ormonde, refers; et forte puella,_
_Quae tibi Medeam praestet, Ibera fuit._
_At quantum Argolicae praeluxerit Angla juventae,_
_Sit memor aeterno carmine fama loqui._
_Unica tunc unam decoravit praeda carinam;_
_Millia nunc referunt vellera mille rates._
_Anna, parens orbis, pretiosam carpere lanam_
_Incipe, et augusta fila novare manu;_
_Protinus optato flavescent saecla metallo,_
_Et fluet e fusis aurea vita tuis._

January xxviii.

Resolving at last to take leave of my good friends at _Hamburg_, _Mynhéer Platia_, with two other merchants, and myself, hire a post waggon for _Holland_. We set forward by seven a clock in the morning, and continue our way two German miles up the river, by the village of _Offensey_ to _Blankeness_; there we cross the _Elbe_, and proceed to a town called _Buxtchude_ in the dominion of _Sweden_, and by night arrive at a poor house in the wood called _Arnswoldt_. Here we drive in with our waggon, and alight at the same room, which was to receive us and our horses, and be at the same time our chamber and parlour, and the kitchin of our old landlady, who was smoked like a ham of bacon. We found her with her houshold, brooding over a fire hearth in the middle of this apartment, common to her self and cattle. Over which there was no chimney, but a wooden rack well stored with bacon, where the smoke was employed to prepare the provision of the year, without wasting itself at the funnel of a chimney. We are laid on a large heap of straw[141], whilst the cows are chewing the cud on each side, and lulling us to sleep. It was here I first saw the black bread of this country, called _bonpournickel_; and was told, that this with plenty of swines flesh, and the thick water of this flat country, were the only dainties of the place. However, it was our good fortune not to be reduced to that diet; for we fared well on our hamper, which we brought with us from _Hamburg_.

January xxix.

Leaving this disagreable place very early, we arrive at the gates of _Bremen_ late at night, and are therefore obliged to lodge in the suburbs, till we could enter the town the next morning. It is a large and fair city, free of the empire, and one of the most considerable _Hanse_ towns, seated on the _Weser_, or _Visurgis_. Here we baited at the wine cellar over against the Exchange, where there is a magazine of good _Rhenish_, inferior in nothing but the quantity of vessels, and largeness of the stock, to that of _Hamburg_. We then proceed by nine a clock (after I had visited Mr. Willet, an English merchant) and on the farther side of the town cross the river under a noble gate, which in an inscription calls this VETVSTISSIMVS VISVRGIS TRAIECTVS. The _Weser_ is here fair, wide, and almost straight, affording a reception for the vessels belonging to the town; but those of a greater burthen are obliged to remain some leagues lower. At this river we now leave _Lower Saxony_, and enter the circle of _Westphalia_. In an hour and a half we come to _Delmenhorst_, an old town and castle belonging to the King of _Denmark_. From thence we proceed to _Wildeshusen_, a town in the dominion of the Elector of _Hanover_, where we lodge.

January xxxi.

We go on this day to _Klopperburg_, a town of the _Lower Bishoprick_ of _Munster_; from whence in a little time we reach the banks of the _Hase_, and in a few hours more the town thence called _Haselun_, where we take up our lodging that night.

February i.

We had hitherto found _Westphalia_ a desolate and wild country, overrun with heath, except here and there adorned with small groves of stately oak, in the middle of which we commonly found a single farm house, enclosed with rude pales like a park, which in summer time must be truly pleasant. In several places by the road side are seen posts, with iron boxes on the top, for the receipt of charity, as if the land it self confessed its poverty. However in this day’s journey the appearance began to alter, for about ten a clock we arrived at _Lingen_, a pretty compact and well built town, which lately belonged to King _William_, but now to the King of _Prussia_. The neighbourhood is well stored with woods; the skirts of the town adorned with frequent gardens, and alleys of trees orderly planted; and the whole place by a show of riches and beauty confessing, as it were, the benefit of a moderate and protestant government.

Just beyond the limits of this town we cross the _Ems_, or _Amasia_, by a ferry boat, and afterwards continue our journey to _Northern_, the first town of the _United Provinces_, in the limits of which we now pass out of _Westphalia_ into _Overissel_. After a short bait we proceed to _Otmarsh_, and there lodge. This is the first place, since I left _Hamburg_, where I was offered a bed, having hitherto slept in my cloaths upon the straw.

February ii.

We now proceed by the way of _Almeloo_, and so to _Deventer_, over the plains, where his late Majesty delighted sometimes to hunt. These plains are covered with heath, and therefore afford not so good riding; but at the same time they are enclosed within long tracts of hills rising gently, which give the sportsman a convenient sight of the chase.

February iii.

We stop this day at _Deventer_, and put up at a public inn, where we dine with some Danish officers; and after diner I pay a visit to the learned _Gisbertus Cuperus_, who entertained me very obligingly, shewed me his library, coins, inscriptions, and other curiosities. In his library were several large volumes of letters, written by him in the name of the states, or on other public occasions. Among his coins was one with the title of IMP. VNICVS. And among his inscriptions this which follows:

MACSVSANO HERCVLI SACRVM
FLAVIVS SVMMVS MAGISTRATVS

He seemed to think this was _Hercules_ of _Mackshusen_, a town not far distant from hence. I continue the following day at _Deventer_, and from thence write to my freinds at _Hamburg_.

February v.

From _Deventer_ I now proceed in three hours to _Loo_, where I was entertained for some hours in viewing the house and gardens of his late Majesty, and then go forward to a village called _Fortshausen_, where I take up my lodging. The next day I continue my journey to _Amersford_, where I dine, and by four a clock reach _Utrecht_.

February vii.

This and the two following days I remain at _Utrecht_, where I now first visit, and contract a very agreable acquaintance with Mr. _Paul Foley_, student of that university; who the day after obliged me with his company in a _treck schuyt_ to _Leyden_, where I view the physic garden, and adjoining galleries of natural rarities; the academy, anatomy theatre, great church, and other curiosities of the place. And the next morning I take the like passage for _Rotterdam_.

February xii.

This day I went to the _Hague_, where at length I again met his Excellency; having seen _Delft_ and _Ryswick_ in the way. At _Delft_ particularly I was entertained with a sight of the great church, and fine monument erected there in memory of _William_ the first, Prince of _Orange_. And the next day I continue to attend his Excellency at the _Hague_.

February xiv.

This day, being Sunday, I depart from the _Hague_, with his Excellency, Mr. Paget, and Mr. Foley, in a _treck schuyt_, by the way of _Leyden_, for _Amsterdam_; where we put up at the _Oude Heeren logement_. And staying here the two following days, after paying a visit to Mr. _Marcus_, I amuse myself with viewing the magazine of the admiralty, the stadthouse, and spinhouse; the hospital of boys and girls, with that of old women; the rasphouse, and other public buildings.

February xviii.

I return this day to _Leyden_, and there see Mr. _De la Faye_, brother of the English minister of that place; and with him visit _Jacobus Gronovius_, professor of eloquence and history, and at this time _rector magnificus_; from whom I receive a copy of _Mynhéer Cosson’s_ inscriptions, among which are some not published in the _Memoria Cossoniana_.

February xix.

We now leave _Leyden_, and go back to _Rotterdam_, where his Excellency is lodged at the _Doole_ for about eight days, and then removes to _Winestreet_. During this time I become acquainted with Mr. Richard Davis on the _Heering vliet_, the chief promoter of the new episcopal English church, now building at the upper end of that _vliet_. I observe whatever is remarkable here, particularly the statue of _Erasmus_, and the house of his birth; and likewise pay a visit to _Mons. Bayle_.

March vi.

I attend his Excellency to the _Hague_, and the next day, being Sunday, I go to _Rotterdam_, there preach to the episcopal congregation, and return to the _Hague_ that evening. The day following I walk from thence to the _House_ in the wood, which is a fine summer retirement, neatly built, and furnished with good painting, by _Frederic Henry_, Prince of _Orange_.

March x.

I depart with Dr. _Timeni_ for _Leyden_, where I now propose a long stay. And here I contract an acquaintance with Mr. _Neufville_, an ingenious and polite gentleman, master of a good library, and a curious collection of antiquities. With him also and Dr. _Timeni_ I visit several of the professors, as _Gronovius_, _Perizonius_, and _Triglandius_; and see likewise the library, and especially the manuscripts of this university. Among other curiosities in the _museum_ of Mr. _Neufville_, I observed the following inscriptions, cut in marble tablets.

CONSIMILES FRATRVM TRABEAS GESTAMINA HONORVM
TERTIA QVAE DEERANT ADDIDIMVS TITVLIS.

This, which follows, is on a stone opposite to the former.

DILECTAE PROBVS HAEC PERSOLVO MVNERA MATRI
RESTITVENS STATVIS PRAEMIA QVAE DEDERAT[142].

D. M.
P. CAESIO EVTYCHETI
FIL.B.M.Q.V.A.XXII.M.X.D.XXIV.
H. III. FONTEIVS EVTYCHES
ET LEPIDVS PARENTES D.

.... RIO CVRATORI VIAE
.. ET ALIMENTORVM
..I PVBLICAE AECIANENSIVM
.. RICVLANORVM
.. OVINCIAE ASIAE
.. ARIO O. K. FLAMINI

COS. AQVARVM ET M .........
ELECTO AD IVDICAND. SACR ..
RECTORI ITALIAE REG. IR ....
CVRATORI COLONIAR. SPL ....
LVGDVNENSIVM CAL .........
CALENORVM XIIVIR ROM ....

This, which follows, was on a gemm.

ΔΡΑΚΩΝ
ΘΕΑΓΕΝΟΥΣ
ΑΛΚΙΜΟΣ
ΤΟΞΟΤΗΣ
ΑΘΗΝΑ.

On the opposite side was a bent bow, with a quiver and arrow, as likewise a serpent twining about the bow; and on the right side was ingraven the word ΑΝΤΙΨΙΛΟΥ.

March xvii.

I now desire my dismission from the family of his Excellency, and hire a lodging for myself. And such was his generosity, that two days afterwards he was pleased to send me the residue of my salary, with half as much more, as was then due, at the rate of eighty pounds a year.

March xxvi.

I see the curious work in cut paper by a woman at _Rotterdam_. And three days afterwards going to _Delft_, I visit Mr. _Leewenhoek_, and see his microscopes, with many curious discoveries upon insects, and other minute animals. The same day I pass to the _Hague_, to gratify my curiosity in viewing such things, as before had escaped my observation.

March xxx.