Chapter II: Front Matter (2)

Before the cool of the evening we visited the ruins of this once flourishing city; and towards the western part observed the standing walls of two or three spatious and lofty rooms, not unworthy the palace of the ancient kings of _Lydia_. They were all arched towards the foundation, and adorned as well as strengthened at each corner with hewn stone; but the main part of the fabric consisted of a broad and durable brick, which is likewise observable in most of the ancient ruins of _Asia Minor_. From hence we passed thro heaps of rubbish, and tracks of continued foundations, to the eastern part of the city; where stand the pillars and front of another spatious building, the figure and situation of which persuaded us, that they were the remains of the cathedral church. A little southerly from hence we viewed the full extent of another stately room, which however antient it might be, was nevertheless raised out of ruins more antient than itself; as appeared from several rich pillars, and architraves, confusedly placed among the rubbish of the walls. About the distance of a furlong, full south of the antient city, are to be seen the beautiful remains not of an amphitheatre, as has been supposed, but rather of some royal palace. Here we observed six lofty Ionic pillars, all of them still intire, except that the capital of one is distorted by an earthquake. There adjoins to them a fair and magnificent portal, the pilasters of which, being about twenty feet high, and twelve feet distant from each other, are joined at the top by one entire stone, which, by what art or force it was there erected, is difficult to conceive; for tho _Pliny_[29] pretends to account for the like difficulty in the architecture of the temple of _Ephesus_, yet that passage gives but little satisfaction in the matter. There occurs nothing else, that is remarkable about _Sardis_, besides the broken walls of the castle on an adjoining hill; the ascent and prospect of which, however magnified by Sir _Paul Rycaut_, we yet thought so inferior, to what we lately had found at _Magnesia_, that it could not raise our curiosity to undertake the climbing of that precipice, especially since we could promise ourselves the same prospect to a greater advantage from the top of _Tmolus_; and as for two or three broken inscriptions, which are there extant, we were content to peruse them in Dr. _Smith’s_ printed _Journal_[30].

April xxviii.

We had now determined our course for _Birghée_, towards which our way lay over the mountain _Tmolus_. In pursuance of this design we mounted quickly after three this morning, and by that time it was full day we had ascended the first edge of the hill, where we halted to enjoy the entertaining prospect of the plain of _Sardis_. We had here the opportunity of viewing the castle hill, the antient seat of the city, the whole course of the _Hermus_[31], and the full extent of the _Gygaean lake_, about five miles in length, and three in breadth, mentioned in all ancient accounts of _Sardis_; but what renders it most remarkable, celebrated of old by _Homer_[32], and well described by _Strabo_ to be about forty furlongs from the city[33]. This sight had now highly satisfied our curiosity, when we turn to the right hand more into the body of the hill, and contrary to our expectation rarely encounter any difficult ascent, by reason of the artificial windings of the way.

_Tmolus_ is in general so pleasant, that it was easy to conceive ourselves in a theatre, where the scene changes every half hour; for sometimes we were surprized with an impending rock, sometimes with a perpendicular precipice, and sometimes with the murmurs of a falling brook; the whole being curiously garnished with trees, shrubs, and herbs of an infinite variety.

In four hours we had at length conquered the highest eminence of the mountain, whence we continue our journey thro a fruitful vale, enclosed on each side with two lofty ridges of the hill. On each of these remains a large quantity of snow, which, as it gradually melts, supplies a rapid current, that descends hence into _Pactólus_. It was observable, that the air of the whole vale was chilled to that degree by the neighbouring snows, that it was still winter in this place; nor could we here discern any buds or leaves on the same sorts of trees, which we had seen green and flourishing on the kinder parts of the mountain.

This cool and refreshing vale lasted an hour, after which we begin to descend the hill by a more steep and dangerous way, than we before had mounted; but nothing was more disagreable, than so sensible a change of air, which we now experienced, being as it were at once translated out of the frigid into the torrid zone. Such was the difference betwixt the valley we had left, and the southern part of the hill we were now traveling. This heat being added to the laborious and tedious circuits, without which the descent was absolutely impossible, brought us at length by one of the clock almost half dead to _Birghée_. Nor were we capable of being refreshed, either with the remembrance of that pleasant mountain, we had passed; or with the view of the _Caýstrian_ plain, which we had then before us.

The rich products of mount _Tmolus_ ought not here to be forgot[34], which nature has furnished with that store and variety of plants, that it may deservedly be termed the _physic garden_ of the universe. The valley, which we mentioned, is enriched with a vein of marble, clear and pellucid enough to contend with alabaster. Nor is it to be neglected, that on the southern descent of the hill we traveled over a continued track of stone, adorned with bright and shining particles resembling gold dust; the occasion most probably of so many splendid epithets, which in antient poetry are bestowed on the _Pactólus_.

_Birghée_ is a fair and considerable Turkish town, adorned with two very handsome _mosques_; and pleasantly seated in the road from _Sardis_, at the opposite foot of _Tmolus_. This makes it probable, it was the _Hypaepae_ of the antients, that situation exactly answering to the description, which _Ovid_ and _Strabo_ have left us of it[35]. We were here received into a public _kane_, where we enjoyed an hearty and entire repose; tho sweetened rather by the fatigue of the foregoing day, than any entertainment or accommodation of the place.

April xxix.

We continued our journey by four a clock this morning thro the _Caýstrian_ plain for _Tyria_, and had the satisfaction of fording that celebrated river about three hours from our _conáck_. Not far from hence we found a stone bridge of three considerable arches, built directly along the bank of the river; and therefore now serving to no other purpose, but only to witness that the stream had changed its chanel. Our way lay from hence near the course of the _Caýster_, thro a fertile and well cultivated champain; a place inexpressibly delicious, and which can be equalled by nothing, but the sweetness of that immortal verse:

Ἀσίῳ ἐν λειμῶνι Καϋστρίου ἀμφὶ ῥέεθρα. Iliad. β′. ℣. 461.

Or those of _Virgil_:

_Pelagi volucres, et quae Asia circum_
_Dulcibus in stagnis rimantur prata Cäystri._ Georg. i. 384.

It is inhabited by frequent villages, and enclosed on both sides with two high and snowy mountains, namely _Tmolus_ on the right hand, and on the left what _Strabo_ calls Μεσογειότης[36], or the _Midland hills_.

Soon after eleven a clock we arrived at _Tyria_, and _conácked_ in an old, dirty, ruinous _kane_; having by this time learnt, that the weary and thirsty traveler must repine at no reception, which he meets with in Turkey. _Tyria_ yeilds a pleasant prospect, as we ride into the city, gently ascending from the adjacent plain. The buildings are curiously intermixt with trees and gardens, which extend the circuit of the place; tho the number of its houses seems inferior to that of _Smyrna_. We counted about fourteen _mosques_, one of which we observed to be royal, that is, adorned with a double _minarée_. Having entered the town we found the streets negligently kept, and meanly built; but at the same time populous enough, not without the appearance of a considerable trade. It is to be wondered that so large a city, standing in the very heart of Asia, should have no remains of antiquity[37]. There are indeed two Greek churches in the place, where the poor ignorant priests would persuade both themselves and us, that this was the antient _Thyatira_; but we thought it not fit to rob them of the satisfaction of this error, nor puzzle them with any accounts of antient geography, or late experience, that evince the contrary.

It is pretended in some journals, that two or three valuable inscriptions are to be found in these churches, tho we were now eye witnesses of the contrary; for there occur’d nothing in that, which they call the Metropolitan church, but a defaced monument, whereon no intelligible words were to be read, except ΧΡΗΣΤΕ ΧΑΙΡΕ. Over the entrance of the other there is a piece of devotion, written in modern characters: but more remarkable, in the body of the wall stands a large image of our _Savior_, elegantly carved in porphyry; tho it now appears rudely mangled, and seems to have felt the fury of the old angry _iconoclastae_. In the hand is portrayed an open book, inscribed with this sentence out of _St. John’s_ Gospel, viii. 12. Ἐγώ εἰμι τὸ φῶς τοῦ κόσμου. This was an instance, which may perhaps appear to be singular, at least it is contrary to the general practice, as well as persuasion of the Greek church; for tho they have a superstitious fondness for religious pictures, yet they abhor all imagery in _relievo_, and look upon it as inclining to heathenism and idolatry.

April xxx.

By six this morning we set forward from _Tyria_ in our way for _Ephesus_, and passing thro the extreme skirt of the city, we observe the inscription of an ancient stone coffin, now converted by the Turks to supply the use of a cistern. It has been defaced towards the upper parts of the chest, and permitted us to read only these following words:

....... Η ΣΟΡΟΣ .......... ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΩ ......
.... ΟΥΔΕΝΙ ..... Ε ..... ΑΙ .... ΜΕΤΑ .....
ΚΟΜΙΣ ... ΜΑ .. ΕΝ .. ΤΟ .. ΤΟΛΜΗΣΑΣ ΤΙ ΤΟΙΟΥ-
ΤΟ ΤΙΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΩ ΤΑΜΕΙΩ 𐆖. Β. Φ. ΚΗΔΟΝ-
ΤΑΙ ΔΕ ΤΗΣ ΣΟΡΟΥ ΙΟΥΝΙΟΣ ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΤΑ-
ΜΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΚΛΗΡΟΝΟΜΟΙ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΖΩΣΙΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΕΠΙ-
ΓΡΑΦΗΣ ΑΝΤΙΓΡΑΦΟΝ ΑΝΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΕΦΕΣΩ
ΑΡΧΕΙΟΝ

Upon the borders of the road, about a mile from _Tyria_, there stands a commodious fountain, and adjoining thereto a pleasant country house; where, as we staid to drink, an hospitable old Turk offered us the entertainment of the place. We were then obliged to refuse the favour, but not without a fresh regret at the inconveniency of our last night’s lodging, when we might have easily passed on to this advantagous _conáck_.

We hence travel some hours in a narrow and almost deserted vale, the _Caýster_ still flowing on our right hand; till about one a clock we draw near to the extreme edge of the _Alymán_, a large mountain lying betwixt the city of _Ephesus_ and the village of _Giamobasy_, and here ending in an abrupt precipice; on the top of which stands an old castle now converted, as is said, into a college of _dervíses_. Near this place the _Caýster_ mingles with a large and muddy lake, which most probably was the _Stagnum Pegasaeum_, mentioned by _Pliny_[38], as having communication with this river. The _Alymán_ we take to be the _Mons Gallesius_ of the antients[39]; since the _Mimas_[40], for which some have lately mistaken it, is the highest part of _Erythréa_, or that cape land, which encloses the bay of _Smyrna_.

We now thought it more advisable not to reach _Ephesus_ till the cool of the morning, but to pass this evening at _Kirkingécui_, a Christian village, lying near two hours to the east of the city. In search of this place our guide unfortunately led us to the left of the above mentioned lake, up a steep craggy and almost impassible mountain; which when with great difficulty we had conquered, and descended in a way almost as tedious on the other side, we were acquainted by a traveler, that we were out of our road either to _Ephesus_ or _Kirkingécui_. This struck a damp upon our spirits, being now obliged to tread back so many unwelcome steps in the heat of the day, despair of all present refreshment, and fearful apprehensions of the miscarriage of our mules. It was therefore voted necessary to hire the above mentioned traveler to conduct us to our village, who accordingly led us by a long and tedious way almost under the castle of _Ephesus_. But from hence we had an hour and an half of pleasant and diverting riding, betwixt two shelving hills, watered at the bottom with a purling brook; whilst on each side we were entertained with a shady scene of bays, myrtle, oleander, Spanish broom, the plane tree, Judas tree, the strawberry tree, lilach tree, and a multitude of other delightful greens. The frequent stops and misfortunes of this day’s journey had made it almost eight a clock, when we arrived at _Kirkingécui_; where to our incredible satisfaction we found our tents already pitched by our muliteers, who by an unknown and unbeaten path, over two or three mountains, had at last fallen upon the village, more by good fortune than any conduct of their own.

May i. 1699.

The village of _Kirkingécui_ is intirely Christian, and supposed to be the miserable remains of the church of _Ephesus_. The παπᾶς, or _priest_, here pretended to shew us a venerable manuscript of the _Evangelists_, wrote, as he said, by _Prochorus_, one of the _seven deacons_, mentioned in the _Acts of the Apostles_[41]. Upon inspection the character indeed appeared antient, and possibly may be that of the sixth or seventh century; but the book itself is nothing else but a _Lectionarium_, or _Copy of the Gospels_, so portioned into lessons, according to the ritual of the Greek church, that, begining at _St. John_ on Easter day, the four _Evangelists_ are read out by the return of the year. The sight of that manuscript, and of the small parish church, was the business of this morning; after which we descended by the same pleasant road, which we had traveled last night, and so arriving about ten a clock we take possession of the public _kane_ at _Ephesus_[42].

The once glorious and renowned _Ephesus_ was seated in a fruitful vale, encompassed almost round with mountains[43], at a small distance from the _Caýster_, and about five miles eastward from cape _Trogilium_; where, at the common charge of all _Ionia_, the _Panionia_, or _common councils of Ionia_, were formerly celebrated. This vale rises advantagously in the middle with two or three little hills[44], on which the several parts of the antient city lay extended. The same spot of ground is still covered with the rich remains of its former glory. Such are the massy walls, the portals, the arches, the aqueducts, the marble chests, together with the dejected cornishes, shafts, and capitals of many lofty pillars. But the face of the whole yeilds a melancholy and disagreable prospect, being overrun with an incredible quantity of rank and luxuriant weeds, which serve only to corrupt the air, and to conceal the curiosities of the place. This we found to be a disadvantagous circumstance, and such as doubled the labour of this day in compassing the circuit of the city, and tracing the uncertain footsteps of so many valuable antiquities. But because these cannot so intelligibly be represented in the order, in which we viewed them, we shall methodically consider _Ephesus_, as lying in three distinct ruins of a Turkish, Christian, and Heathen city.

The freshest ruins of this place appear to be Turkish, and such as witness, that it has been in considerable repute even under its last barbarous conqueror; who also has changed the name of _Ephesus_ into that of _Aiasalúck_. Here are to be seen the remains of five or six _mosques_, besides one which is still used for Mahometan service. In several places there occur the walls of ruined bagnios, tho they are incredibly increased by the fabulous Turks, and reported to have been here to the number of three hundred and sixty six. But that, which most plainly evidences the late riches of the place, are the many beautiful monuments, which we viewed among their burying places, most of them inscribed with fair Turkish characters. Tis observable, that these are cut rising from the plane of the stone, and not indented within the surface; which is the constant fashion of the Turks in all their public monuments, in opposition to the custom of other times and nations. It is not certain, whether the new castle, which stands to the northward of the old citadel, be of Grecian or Turkish fabric; however it is still kept in repair by the Turks, and filled within the circuit of the walls with fifty or sixty small cottages, which with two or three scattering tenements are the only habitations of the present _Ephesus_.

For such monuments of Christianity, as are here visited by travelers, we are beholden to the tradition of the neighbouring Christians; who shew the place of _St. Mark’s_ and _St. Paul’s_ church, together with the standing walls of that dedicated to _St. John_; which last apostle, returning from his banishment in _Patmos_ upon the death of _Domitian_, lived, and died, and was interred at _Ephesus_[45]. The church of _St. John_, tho still entire, is however miserably transformed, and converted into the profane use of a Turkish _mosque_. Like all other _mosques_ of the better fashion, it has a square and spacious yard on the north side, with three different entrances belonging to it. Those to the east and west are reasonably well beautified, being adorned above the portals with curious Turkish sculptures, and materials of rich polished marble. From this yard we enter the _mosque_ by five wooden doors, all of which are carved to an exquisite perfection. Within appear a splendid pulpit and _kiblé_, both consisting of wrought marble, and the latter more particularly imbellished with painting and gilding of great art and variety. But what are most justly admired and celebrated by all, who have traveled hither, are the four pillars of granate marble, standing in a right line from east to west, and supporting two cupolas, that compose the roof. They are so far disproportioned, that the least is almost three, and the biggest near four feet diameter; besides which the pedestals of some are quite covered with the floor, and all besides one, which is of the compound order, have lost their antient capitals. All these are circumstances, which unanswerably demonstrate, that these pillars are now transported from their first places. And in truth, when the whole fabric is diligently compared with all other Turkish _mosques_, and this consideration further added, that there appears no sign of an altar to the east, or door to the west end; it will be more than probable, that nothing but the southern wall can be the remains of a Christian church. About a mile to the south west of this place, and in the midst of the antient city, stands an high wall, and adjoining thereto a stately gatehouse, in which are these words, most curiously engraven:

.... ACCENSO ....
.... RENSI ET ASIAE ...

Together with this imperfect inscription are to be seen the defaced figure of a man on horseback, and another of a serpent twisted round a tree. This is by most adjudged to be a Christian ruin; and indeed if we consider its beauty and grandeur, as it can be no very modern building, so by reason of its misplaced carvings and inverted inscriptions it cannot be very antient; but may conveniently be refered to those times, in which Christianity began to flourish here. And after this there will be room to put in another conjecture, and to guess from the stateliness of the fabric, that it might be the place, where that famous general council of almost two hundred bishops condemned the heresy of _Nestorius_, in the year four hundred thirty one; tho his errors are still living among the Indians and Chaldeans, two sects which are numerous in the eastern parts of _Asia_[46]. Those other Christian monuments, which are commonly shewn at _Ephesus_, are merely fabulous; and serve only to cheat and abuse the curiosity of many travelers, who undergo no little pains and difficulty in coming hither. Such are the _cave of the seven sleepers_; the _font_, in which _St. John_ is said to have baptized so many primitive Christians; and a square watch tower, which ordinarily goes by the name of _St. Paul’s prison_. This last stands upon a small hill, about a mile nearer the sea, than was the _temple of Diana_; and is indeed worth visiting by those, who have not so much superstition or credulity; for its situation gives a commanding prospect over the stream of the _Caýster_, which here seems to rival the _Maeander_, and plays with many wanton windings in the adjoining plain.

The chief heathen antiquities, that are to be seen at _Ephesus_, are the remainder of the _old citadel_, and the foundation of the _temple of Diana_. The former of these is an intire gate, with two broken walls adjoining on each side, which being situated on a convenient ascent, towards the north east of the ancient city, most probably was a sort or citadel, that defended it on that quarter. This gatehouse has the marks of considerable antiquity, tho it has been rebuilt from other more antient ruins; as is evident from some misplaced stones, and broken reversed inscriptions, that occur in the work. Among these are viewed with great satisfaction three flat marble stones, curiously cut in _basso relievo_; which tho of different design, and unequal breadth, are placed in a line to adorn the arch of the gate.

The first of these marbles (reckoning from the left hand as we front the gate) has been somewhat injured by time; but from the portraiture of grapes and baskets, and four or five figures in gay and youthful postures, it may be presumed to represent a _Bacchanal_.

The second marble is a military piece, consisting of many intire figures, all cut in postures very bold and masterly, and such as undoubtedly are the work of some noble hand. It designs a warlike horse surprized by an enemy, with his rider lying at his feet; near which several persons are carried captive by Roman soldiers. The chieftain stands by, and is supplicated by a woman in a large loose mantle, whose intercession seems to intercept the action. This has been by some refered to the _destruction of Troy_, and by others to a Christian persecution; but with greater probability it may be thought to represent the event of some Roman victory.

The third marble is a sepulchral monument, and represents a dead person extended, from his knees upwards, on a funeral bed; the chief mourner sitting, and five other persons standing in a melancholy posture, and lamenting over him. These likewise are very lively figures, and cut with an inimitable perfection.

Of the _temple of Diana_ there are extant no considerable ruins, nor any thing that is lofty and beautiful enough to bespeak it the remains of that famous structure. But in a marshy ground, near the _Lacus Selenusius_[47], betwixt the haven _Panórmus_[48] and the place of the antient city, there stand two broken pieces of a massy wall, in which both the present tradition, and accounts of antient geographers, exactly conspire to prove them the small reliques of the temple. As they themselves consist of square hewn stone, so they are surrounded with heaps of the same materials, among which occur some lofty dejected pillars of beautiful and splendid marble. Under the highest of these ruinous walls there descends an artificial passage, which after two or three short turnings proceeds in a straight line thro many narrow rooms and alleys. This, tho dark and noisome, is customarily visited by travelers, with the assistance of a candle and clue of thread; and is called, by we know not what fancy, the _labyrinth of Diana’s temple_. But as we observed the like under several large structures, some at _Sardis_, and others at this very place; so it is notorious, that this is but the ordinary method of strengthening any great foundation, and securing the building by subterraneous arches. Returning from this cavity the traveler has nothing else in view, but venerable heaps of rubbish, and uncertain traces of foundations; and must be forced to supply his curiosity with considering, that this was the place, where once stood and flourished that renowned wonder of the world.

The first temple had been burnt on the same night, in which _Alexander the Great_ was born; and this second was then rebuilding, when that prince was residing at _Ephesus_, and pursuing his conquests in _Asia Minor_. He contributed sumptuously to the expence, and afterwards proposed to reimburse the whole, if the Ephesians would consent to inscribe his name upon the fabric[49]. But those citizens had an ambition equal to that of Alexander, and therefore diverted his desires by a fulsom compliment, and the dedication of a famous picture; which was Alexander himself armed with thunder, designed by the inimitable Apelles, and valued at twenty talents of gold[50]. _Pliny_ has likewise told us, that this temple was adorned with an hundred and twenty seven pillars, each sixty feet high, thirty six of which were carved, and that by the celebrated hand of _Scopas_. The whole structure was four hundred and twenty five feet in length, and two hundred and twenty feet in breadth; and was founded in this watry ground, out of a vain hope to secure it by that means against time and earthquakes.

These are the most remarkable curiosities either of Turkish, Christian, or Heathen antiquity, which in the space of this afternoon we observed at _Ephesus_. Besides which we viewed many intire pillars of an aqueduct, that passes over the plain from the southern hills; as also in two places the uncertain footsteps of a theatre; and without the new castle a full face[51], with two serpents (cut on a stone) whose heads meet over it, and their bodies descend on each side. This monument is supposed to represent _Diana_, in the two characters of _Luna_ and _Proserpine_. But it is to be wished, that some curious traveler might remain two or three days at _Ephesus_; during which time by removing the weeds, and clearing the confused ruins, he might possibly discover many valuable inscriptions; as by the benefit of a ladder he might take one or two from the wall above mentioned under the Christian ruins, which to our great dissatisfaction we found not legible from the ground.

Among the few imperfect inscriptions discoverable in so short a stay, the name of P. VEDIVS ABOSCANTVS, with mention of his wife and daughter, is once or twice repeated both in Greek and Latin. And ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΗΡΩΔΗΝ, or the name of that ingenious Roman, whose part is so entertaining in the _Noctes Atticae_ of _Gellius_, is preserved on a fragment among the pillars of the aqueduct. In the same place is frequent mention of _M. Antoninus_, once particularly on occasion of an honour done by the city to his daughter _Fadilla_.

ΦΑΔΙΛΛΑΝ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ Μ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΥ ΑΝΤΩΝΕΙΝΟΥ
ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ[52]

This distich likewise on the castle gate is remarkable for the word _Ptelea_, an old name of _Ephesus_, which occurs in it.

ΤΟΥΤΟΝ ΟΝ ΕΙΣΟΡΑΑΣ ΤΥΠΟΝ ΟΡΘΙΟΝ ΑΝΤΩΝΙΝΟΥ
ΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΣ ΠΤΕΛΕΗ ΘΗΚΑΤΟ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΜΕΝΟΝ

An invaluable inscription this, if the thing, to which it relates, had been found with it; for it seems to imply the hiding of a medal under the stone, which bore the inscription, that so, when time should destroy the building, the emperor’s face might be communicated to posterity.

Our way did not lead us by the aqueduct six miles from the city, in which is to be seen that large Latin and Greek inscription, printed in Sir George Wheler’s _Travels_[53]. Nor did we find those imperfect lines, which he took from a stone half buried in the ground[54]. But there is this perfect inscription on a stone near the gate of the old citadel, with which we shall here finish our account of _Ephesus_.

Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΝ ΑΙΛΙΟΝ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΝ
ΑΠΟΛΛΟΔΩΡΟΝ ΑΣΠΕΝΔΙΟΝ ΦΙΛΟΛΟΓΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΜΝΗ-
ΜΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΑΙΛΙΟΣ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΣ
ΖΩΙΛΟΣ Ο ΑΔΕΛΦΟΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΖΗ

May ii.

It was a rainy and tempestuous morning, when, as we lay yet a sleep in the public _kane_, a terrible clap of thunder discharged itself seemingly in the very room. The vehemence of the noise awakened us in great astonishment; and our eyes were no sooner opened, but the whole place seemed to be filled with a red blaze of fire. Each person was first solicitous for the safety of his companions, and afterwards for that of the horses, which were dispersed in their stations about the door. But finding that we had received no detriment, either in our goods or persons, we blessed God for our deliverance; and concluded by an infallible argument, that the displosion must needs be extremely near us, in that the light continued for some time after the sound.

We mount by six a clock, and now determine our return to _Smyrna_; to which there lies a straight tho difficult and craggy road, over the top of the _Alymán_; upon which account we thought it preferable to take the way of the plains. This first led us over the bridge of the _Caýster_, and then quickly after round the abrupt precipice of the _Alymán_, and that old castle upon its edge, which we had before so much in view, as we rode from _Tyria_. From hence we pass thro a variety of low woods and pastures, which in themselves were pleasant and diverting; tho the fountains being all dry about this quarter, we were much distressed for want of water. About four hours and a quarter from _Ephesus_ we descry on our left hand, on the rising of the hill, the deplorable remainder of the castle of _Metropolis_; and at the foot thereof such apparent traces of foundations, with variety of hewn marble, as permitted us no longer to doubt concerning the place of that waste city. And it may be added, that computing our way by hours, as _Strabo_ does by furlongs[55], we did not greatly differ from his account, who places it at little more than a third part of the distance betwixt _Ephesus_ and _Smyrna_. Not far from hence we begin to approach a small, tho not shallow river, runing on our right hand, which probably is the _Phyrites_ of _Pliny_[56] mingling, as he describes it, with the _Caýster_, not far from the _Stagnum Pegasaeum_, or that lake, which we before observed in our way from _Tyria_ to _Ephesus_. Beyond this river we saw a large extended pasture, overspread with the flocks, herds, and tents of _Turcmen_. They had here pitched their station to the number of fourteen hundred; for as we staid to taste their milk, and to view their habitations, they themselves gave us this account, reckoning about two hundred tents, and seven persons more or less appertaining to each. As the whole race of the Turks were nothing else but a numerous colony, that swarmed from _Scythia_; so these _Turcmen_ seem to be the peculiar descendants of the _Nomades Scythae_, or _Shepherd Scythians_, and like them make it their employment to breed and nurture cattle. To this end they never assemble in towns, or betake themselves to houses; but flit from place to place, as the season of the year directs, and seize without control the vast neglected pastures of this desert empire.

In two hours and three quarters from _Metropolis_ we arrive at _Trianta_, a small but pleasant village, seated on a dry soil, and enjoying a very healthful air; where we proposed to _conáck_ this evening. An _agá_ here hospitably accommodated us with the convenience of his country house, and likewise treated us with a small collation after the Turkish fashion.

May iii.

By seven a clock we leave _Trianta_, crossing a little river within the limits of the village, and at an hour’s distance another of the same bigness; one or both of which, as they unite in the bottom of the plain, must be the antient _Halésus_, that ran into the sea at _Colophon_. We continue in a large and beaten road, leaving _Giamóbashy_ on our left hand, till having _Sedícui_ now in view, we cross over a watry bottom to shorten our way thither. Here we arrive about ten a clock, and stop to refresh ourselves in the consul’s country house; where after a long disuse of chairs, which are not the fashion of the Turks, we once more had the pleasure of sitting down to diner.

Having mounted soon after three, the worshipful consul Raye, with several gentlemen of our nation, did us the honour to meet us about two miles distance from the village. On these therefore we waited home the remainder of our way, and so returned before six a clock in good health to _Smyrna_; having been much obliged to Mr. Whalley for his care and conduct, as well as mutually to one another for that chearful and unanimous temper, which sweetened all our travels, and deceived the several fatigues of this laborious journey.

An Account of a voyage from _Smyrna_ to _Constantinople_, and a journey back from thence to _Smyrna_, in the year MDCCI.

March xxvi.

This day I took my passage for _Constantinople_ on board the _King William_ galley, captain Nehemiah Winter commander, and accordingly went on board at six a clock in the evening; being favoured with the company of Mr. Dunster, Mr. Turner, and Mr. Clotterbooke, who after a short repast returned a shore. On the same ship imbarked for _Constantinople_ the _barút agá_ of _Smyrna_, with his _harém_, and a numerous family.

March xxvii.

We set sail this morning with a gentle gale, which served us as far as _St. George’s_ island, that lies before the harbour of _Fochia Vecchia_, that is _Phocaea_; betwixt which and the sand head, occasioned by the discharge of the river _Hermus_, we came to an anchor at the approach of the evening.

March xxviii.

We set sail early this morning with little or no wind, the whole day continuing calm till towards the evening; when the gale began to grow fresh, and favouring us all night advanced us betwixt the main land of _Aeolia_ and the island of _Mitylene_, or _Lesbos_, leaving the bay of _Cuma_, now called _Sotaléa_, upon our right hand.

March xxix.

This morning with a contrary and very gentle gale we turn betwixt the island and the main, having a fair view of the harbour, city, and castle of _Mitylene_[57]; the last of which seems to be large and well walled, declining with a moderate descent on the side of a gentle hill. The same coast of the island is stored with many pleasant and considerable villages, well furnished with arable and pasture ground, and large woods at a distance, said to abound with deer. This day we advanced no farther than the isles of _Musconisia_, formerly _Arginusae_[58], situated betwixt the continent of _Aeolia_ and the island of _Mitylene_. Here therefore we came to anchor about midday, lying opposite to the mouth of the _Idaean_ or _Adramyttian_ gulph, made by the two promontories of _Cana_ on one side, and _Lecton_ on the other, and fenced towards the continent of _Troas_ (for so that whole region may be called) with the snowy and aspiring top of mount _Ida_.

March xxx.

This morning the wind springing fair about four a clock, we advance betwixt the island of _Mitylene_ and the main of _Aeolia_, the narrowed _bogáz_ is made by cape _Siguri_, antiently _Sigrium_, on the island side, and cape _Babá_, formerly _Lecton_, on that of the main. Near midday we begin to turn this latter cape, and thereby to gain the sight of _Imbros_ and _Tenedos_; _Lemnos_ not discovering itself till some hours afterwards, as we advanced with calm weather betwixt _Tenedos_ and the _Trojan_ shore; when the low land of _Lemnos_, with the round and exalted top of _Athos_ on the other side of it, gave us a delightful prospect.

March xxxi.

This day turning to windward, we advance by nine a clock between the town of _Tenedos_ and the _Trojan_ shore, the narrow distance of about six or seven miles allowing us a distinct prospect of each. _Tenedos_ is a middle sized compact town, fortified with a castle, seated immediately on the shore, and fenced toward the land with a round hill; but exposed to the sea without the advantage of any deep gulph, or commodious harbour. The whole island is green and level, and has the appearance, as well as reputation, of a rich and fertile soil. The wind not favouring us from hence, we proceed slowly the whole day with calm and serene weather; and turning betwixt _Tenedos_ and the _Phrygian_ continent, after enjoying the delightful sight of the _Trojan_ campain on one side, and of _Tenedos_, _Imbros_, and _Samothracia_ on the other, we anchored about six in the evening under the celebrated promontory of _Sigéum_.

April i.

Early in the morning we endeavour to make sail from _Sigéum_, but being taken in a dead calm, we were employed the whole day in warping, that so passing the mouth of the _Hellespont_ we might lie (if occasion should so require) sheltered by the new castle, and the point on which it stands. Having with great fatigue made two or three warps, the wind at length favoured us so far, as to advance us two leagues within the said new castle of _Natolia_, when the captain thought it better to anchor, than to proceed in so narrow a chanel and so dark a night.

At this place it will be most proper to set down my thoughts of _Troy_, and the whole _Trojan_ shore, which for the space of three days I viewed at a convenient distance in calm and serene weather from the poop of the ship, feeding my eyes and mind with an eager and boundless curiosity. That, which in a large sense was called of old by _Strabo_, as at present by the modern Greeks, the campain of _Troas_, begins at the promontory of _Lecton_, and then fronting the isle of _Tenedos_ ends in a delicious green and level country, as far as the strait of the _Hellespont_. But from the begining of this strait we sail by the main of that, which is properly to be called the campain of _Troy_. And because our modern travelers give a wild and indistinct account of this famous place, I shall endeavour to describe the bounds, and situation of it, in as clear and distinct terms as possible.

From cape _Sigéum_ (whence antiently was computed the entrance of the _Hellespont_) you sail about five miles, till you come opposite to the mouth of the _Scamander_; and from thence about two miles farther to a small prominence of land, by the antients called _Rhoetéum_. Betwixt this _Rhoetéum_ and _Sigéum_, the marine, which bent in an even uninterrupted semicircle, afforded a commodious station for the Grecian fleet[59]. But as _Strabo_ well observes, that in his time the _Scamander_ began to interrupt this station, by the sand it discharges on the shore; so it has since gained more considerably on the sea, and formed that whole tongue of land, on which is now built the new castle of _Natolia_. However in the days of _Priam_ the shore was undoubtedly more regular, as well as more retired. And opposite thereto in the adjoining continent, at such a distance as would admit the engagements, the flights, the pursuits, and the encampments of each army (as they are all described by _Homer_) we are to conceive of the walls and buildings of antient _Troy_. But still we must be cautious of pointing out, and distinguishing the very place; since in the reign of _Tiberius Caesar_ we are assured by _Strabo_, that there remained not the least footstep of antient _Troy_ to satisfy the curiosity of the most searching traveler[60]. So vain are the accounts of our modern _journalists_, who pretend to have seen the walls, the gates, or other ruins of _Troy_; that, which now remains, being nothing but the rubbish of new _Ilium_, or of that city once attempted there by _Constantine_.

April ii.

We endeavour this morning to continue our voyage, but make no considerable progress; because the gentle gale, that favoured us, could not prevail against the current of the _Hellespont_, which perpetually flows with a full and rapid course into the _Aegéan_ sea. We therefore drive back, and content ourselves with coming to an anchor in the same place, from whence we weighed this morning; taking the opportunity of going to dine on the Asian shore. After midday a fresher wind advanced us within a small distance from the old castles; where it again deserted us, and obliged us to drop anchor a second time, to maintain the way we had gained in opposition to the violent stream of this chanel.

April iii.

We continue anchored at the same place, being all this day entirely becalmed. And the day following, the calm having changed into a contrary wind detained us still at the same anchor. But however disagreeable this interruption in the course of our voyage might prove to some others of the company, the leisure of those two days was to me very grateful. Nor could I esteem it any loss of time, but rather an advantage, on account of the favourable and unexpected opportunity it afforded me of visiting two so famous castles, together with the villages adjoining to them[61]. Going ashore therefore in the captain’s pinnace to the town on the Asian side (formerly called _Abýdos_[62], but by the Turks _Eskí Natolia Hisar_) with great pleasure I walked about the place, but found no footsteps of antiquity[63]. The town is large, but mean; yet famous for a curious sort of earthen ware finely glazed, which is made here, and vended in great quantities. The castle is intire, of a square figure, with bastions projecting at each corner, and with one side flanks the water on a level shore; where are to be seen betwixt twenty and thirty vast guns, such as perhaps are no where else to be found, except in some other parts of Turkey. They are of brass, and have a bore at least three quarters of a yard diameter; and are charged with stone bullets of the same dimensions, which lie at hand spherically cut. The charge of powder, as I was informed on the place by the _barút agá_ of _Smyrna_, is an hundred and five _okes_. From _Abýdos_ I crossed over in a small wherry to _Sestos_[64], that is, from _Natolia_ to _Rumeli Hisar_, and in the way observed the art of the boatman in avoiding the force of the current, a circumstance mentioned by _Strabo_[65]. This town stands on a precipice, descending steeply towards the sea shore; and is better built, tho less, than _Abýdos_. It has a castle consisting of a triangular tower, enclosed within an high wall of this figure, and that again with another triangular wall, all surrounded with a deep foss. In the same level with the water are mounted about thirty guns, of the same or rather bigger size than those of _Natolia Hisar_; and by each lie great heaps of stones, cut spherically to the dimensions of each canon. In relation to this town of _Sestos_, and the tower of _Leander_, once adjoining to the shore a little above the town, I remembered that request of _Musaeus_:

Σὺ δ’ εἴποτε κεῖθι περήσεις,
Δίζεό μοι τινὰ πύργον[66].

April v.

This morning a fresh wind favouring us at south west we set sail by six a clock, and passing the forementioned castles, within a league on the European shore, arrive at the town _Maitos_, antiently _Madytos_[67], seated on a low land within a small recess of the sea, and inhabited intirely by Greeks. The campain on each side is delightful to the traveler, as well as fertile to the inhabitants; being for the most part of a level situation, and in the neighbourhood of the villages it possesses, well cultivated and distinguished into pastures. About three leagues from _Maitos_ we view on the same shore two pleasant and well situated villages, by the name of the _Lesser_ and _Greater Galata_. Thence about the distance of two leagues we arrive betwixt _Lampsacus_ on the Asian, and _Callipolis_ on the European shore; the former a small town, and the latter a city of no inconsiderable extent; so that now they have changed their fortune, and that character, which they bore in the time of _Strabo_[68]. About twelve leagues from _Callipolis_ lies the island _Marmora_, exceeding high ground, abounding with rich veins of durable and pretious marble; the same of which has given it the name of _Marmora_, instead of the ancient _Proconésus_. Adjoining to this are two lesser isles, _Kutali_ and _Alonia_, the latter eminent for the product of excellent wines. Betwixt these islands and the beautiful Thracian shore, which here graces the _Propontis_, we were advanced by a brisk and favourable gale at the approach of the evening, and from thence are now continuing our voyage, with the same auspicious wind, and hopes, if God permit, to arrive at _Constantinople_ early by to morrow morning.

April vi.

Before ten last evening the wind having changed to our disadvantage, we find ourselves this morning but little advanced from _Marmora_; however by the benefit of turning to windward, we proceeded this day about the distance of ten leagues. Every other tack brought us near to the Thracian shore, and entertained us with a fair view of the most green and fertile campain I ever yet beheld. By the same means we enjoyed the opportunity of seeing the famous port and city of _Heracléa_, built behind a small eminence, which protends itself into the sea, and forms an haven on each side of the city. Not far from hence stands on the same shore the fair town of _Selymbria_; near which the night now overtakes us, and deprives us of that delicious prospect, which the whole day afforded us, of the feilds of Thrace. It was on this day, that captain Winter wanting his log line to be brought him from a chest in the great cabin, was not permitted by the _barút agá_ to send any person down for it, by reason of his _harém_ being there. At length he yeilded to let the captain’s son go, a child of about eight years of age.

April vii.

Early this morning I betake myself to the enjoyment of the same diverting prospect, whilst the ship, by the benefit of tacking, passes by _Grande_ and _Piccolo Ponte_; and so betwixt nine and ten of the clock comes to an anchor within a short league of the _Seven Towers_, a castle which forms the extreme point of _Constantinople_. Here we continued wind bound the remainder of this day, because the narrowness of the chanel, into which we were now to enter; and the force of the current, which runs very rapidly out of the Thracian _Bosphorus_; did not suffer us to advance against the violent north wind.

April viii.

This morning about nine a clock the wind, which changed nothing of its point, yet abated so much of its strength, that it permitted us to turn from the _Seven Towers_ along the bending walls of _Constantinople_, as far as the _Seraglio point_. But the violence of the current prohibiting us to make the harbour of _Galata_, the ship was again obliged to drop anchor, and wait till she could either make sail with a fair wind, or take the opportunity of a calm to be towed in by _hamáls_. We had not long cast anchor, when my esteemed freind, Mr. Matthias Goodfellow, was pleased to visit me on board the ship; and carrying me ashore in the boat, which brought him, first introduced me to his excellency, the Lord Paget, and then kindly allotted me a pleasant and convenient apartment in his house at _Galata_.

April xiii.

This day I attended the funeral of Signior _Demetrasco_, chief _dragoman_ to the English ambassador, who tho by faith a Latin, yet by birth was of the Greek nation. And accordingly in the way of burying proper to this latter, I observed the manner of carrying the corps of the deceased barefaced, clothed in his late usual habit, and supported by four of his nearest relations; who were followed by women slaves, hired to make a hideous pomp, by tearing their hair, extorting forced and counterfeit tears, and repeating in a continual loud and frightful lamentation, ὦ ἀφέντη μου; that is, _O my master!_

April xv.

I paid a visit to Signior _Rombarts_, a gentile and ingenious merchant of the Dutch nation, at his house in _Curuchesmée_, a village on the Thracian _Bosphorus_. Here I observed a _sophá_ room remarkably adorned after the richest Turkish fashion, the roof formed into a cupola, and the gilding and painting of the whole so splendidly curious, that it amounted at first to the sum of four thousand _hungárs_, or two thousand pounds sterling.

April xvii.

I took the opportunity of passing over the chanel to _Constantinople_, in company of Signior _Wright_, the Dutch minister of this place, with whom I visited the _mint_; the _Grand Signior’s_ lions; and the _mosques_ of _Sultan Solymán_, _Sultan Bajazet_, _Sultan Achmét_, and the _Validée_. That of _Bajazet_ and the _Validée_ are adorned only with two _minarées_, that of _Solymán_ with four, and that of _Achmét_ with six. They all much resemble one another, both in the inward and outward figure. They first consist of a spatious court, enriched all round with fair and regular cloisters formed by pillars, some of whose shafts are carved with white marble, some with serpentine stone, and some with porphyry; but all the capitals are of the modern Turkish figure. Next is the body of the _mosque_, covered outwardly with domes, and supported inwardly with four massy pillars, from the tops of which rises a regular cupola, forming the roof of the whole _mosque_. Whoever exactly compares the beauty and grandeur of these several _mosques_, will find that of _Solymán_ more regular, and artificial in the outward frame; that of _Achmét_ more magnificent in the whole, and on the outside more beautiful in the work of the pillars; that of the _Validée_, tho less in bulk and extent than the other two, yet more curious in the inward ornaments and workmanship than either; and that of _Bajazet_, which is the oldest, inferior to the rest both in bulk and beauty, except that some cast pillars, which form the cloisters of the court, consist of a more polite, shining, and pretious stone.

The same morning I visited the antient cirque of this city, a large oblong space flanked on three sides with the houses of the city, and on the fourth with the walls of the _mosque_ of _Sultan Achmét_. Therein stand three pillars, the first of square stone, formerly covered with gilded brass, at the end of the cirque, and supposed to have been the goal of the _stadium_. It now declines much, having suffered greatly by time, and openings in the several joints of the stones. The second pillar is of wreathed brass, not above twelve feet high, lately terminated at the top with figures of three serpents rising from the pillar, and with their necks and heads forming a beautiful triangle. But this monument was rudely broken from the top of the pillar by some attendants of the late Polish ambassador, whose lodgings were appointed in this cirque, opposite to the said pillar[69]. The third pillar is a long square stone, or obelisk, decreasing gradually from its basis, till it ends almost in a point. The matter is granate, or Theban marble; and each side is engraven with birds, beasts, and other hieroglyphical figures[70]. This had once lain upon the ground, and, as we may conceive from the inscriptions, a considerable time; till _Theodosius_ erected it on a large and square basis, adorned on each side with various images; and having fixt on the top of this basis four brass supporters, on these he set the aforesaid hieroglyphical Theban column. There is a Latin inscription on one side of the basis, and a Greek one on the other, importing what I here mention concerning the erection of the pillar. The Greek runs thus:

ΚΙΟΝΑ ΤΕΤΡΑΠΛΕΥΡΟΝ ΑΕΙ ΧΘΟΝΙ ΚΕΙΜΕΝΟΝ ΑΧΘΟϹ
ΜΟΥΝΟϹ ΑΝΑϹΤΗϹΑΙ ΘΕΥΔΟϹΙΟϹ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΥϹ
ΤΟΛΜΗϹΑϹ ΠΡΟΚΛΟϹ[71] ΕΠΕΚΕΚΛΕΤΟ ΚΑΙ ΤΟϹΟϹ ΕϹΤΗ
ΚΙΩΝ ΗΕΛΙΟΙϹ ΕΝ ΤΡΙΑΚΟΝΤΑ ΔΥΩ

The Latin thus:

DIFFICILIS QVONDAM DOMINIS PARERE SERENIS
IVSSVS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM PORTARE TYRANNIS
OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDVNT SOBOLIQVE PERENNI[72]
TER DENIS SIC VICTVS EGO DOMITVSQVE DIEBVS[73]

The remaining verse, mentioned by Sir _George Sandys_, is now covered in the ground[74].

April xxii.