Chapter I: O. M. Et Diis (1)

PENATIBVS
SCAVRIANVS

MINERVAE TIB.
JVLIVS NOVIA
NVS II ... LEG.
POSVIT

PRO SALVTE DO
MINI NOSTRI
SANCTISSIMI AN
TONINI PII AVGVS
TI NYMPHIS NOVIS[120]
SACRVM RVFRI
VS[121] SVLPICIA ...
LEG. XIII. G ...
ANIO

At midday we dined with Count _Seau_, and by two a clock taking leave of the governor, we set forward in a calash for _Enyed_[122], two Hungarian miles distant from hence, where we arrived before seven, the road lying all the way near the banks of the _Maurusius_.

May xxii.

We take a calash this morning, and proceed about an hour from _Enyed_ to meet his Excellency, at the place where he crossed the _Maurusius_ by flat boats; which done, we wait on him back to _Enyed_, and there arrive about one a clock. After diner I visited the school and college of this place, which is reputed the most flourishing of those, that belong to the reformed Calvinist church in Transylvania. It has three professors, one of philosophy, _Stephanus Kolosvari_, who has traveled into England; another of divinity, _Stephanus Engedi_, a learned man, who gave me a popish book, concerning the Emperor’s treatment of the reformed churches in Hungary; and a third of the Greek tongue, logic, and history, _Fr. Pariz-Papa_, a physician, who presented me with some printed tracts of his own, and a manuscript _Itinerary_ of Dr. _Basire_ prebendary of Durham, left by him in _Alba Julia_, where he professed divinity during the late usurpation in England.

May xxiii.

We proceed three Hungarian miles from _Enyed_ to _Therda_, where we arrive about one a clock, and find it a dirty ill built town, but remarkable for its salt pits. It has two Calvinist churches, with one appropriated to the Unitarians. The town stands upon the _Aranyas_, antiently the _Chrysolas_, in which the _Zingans_ find gold dust, principally after rain.

May xxiv.

It being Whitsunday, his Excellency halted this day, and in his lodgings had divine service and a sermon. After diner we visit the salt pits, which altogether resemble those of _Visakna_, except that the salt seems somewhat clearer and stronger. Returning we find the following Roman inscription.

ISIDI
ET SERAPI
C. IVL. ANN
ISONVS ...
LEG. V. M. HO.
ET FL. APO
LINARIA ...
EIVS V. L. S

May xxv.

We proceed three Hungarian miles to _Clausenburg_, the _Zeugma_ of the antients, by the Hungarians called _Kolosvar_, and in Latin _Claudiopolis_. Here Governor _Banti_ met my Lord half a mile out of the town, and treated him at diner; after which taking leave, he presented him with a set of six fine coach horses. It is a fair city with a broad and straight street; but still retains on the houses and churches the marks of a dreadful fire, which about five years since almost entirely consumed it. It is seated upon the first branch of the river _Samos_, and is entirely surrounded with an antient thick wall, on the inside of which I was shewn the two following inscriptions, the latter whereof has the characters beautifully cut.

FORTVNAE AVG.
V L P. MASCV
LINVS VTE. EX
SIGNIF. LEG. V. M.
TE EC. COL. AP. PRO
SA. SVA. TE. SVOR. PL

D. M.
M. AVREL ... PAPIA .. AVG. COL. N. AP[123].
VIXIT ANNIS LX
AVRELIA BONA CONIVX MA
RITO ER. H. CIENO ... VM[124] CV
RAVIT

The Unitarians, who are one of the sects received in Transylvania, have here established their principal seat. I conversed with one of them, _Stephanus Stanizlo_, professor of philosophy, with whom I visited their _plebanus_, or chief pastor, and saw their church and college. I likewise visited the Calvinist pastor, as also their church and college, where I saw _M. B. Nemethi_ their professor of philosophy, _Sam. Nemethi_ the divinity professor being absent. In several public places of the city I observed antient dates of time, particularly over one of the gates, where the year was marked, with these characters, that is 1477; and over the Unitarian college thus, , which is 1476[125]. Here Count _Bethlen’s_ commission ending, his Excellency is provided for by Baron _Vesselini_.

May xxvi.

We stay this day at _Clausenburg_. The next we proceed two Hungarian miles to _Erdicurestúr_, where I lodge in a poor Valach house. And the day following we make the like progress thro woods and narrow vales to _Balashaza_, upon the river _Almasch_.

May xxix.

Two more Hungarian miles thro the like way bring us to _Zilak_, a reformed Calvinist village, where I visited the chief pastor, _Stephanus Foris Debreezeni_. Within half an hour of this place we passed certain mountains very woody, but not exceeding high, which part Transylvania from Hungary; after which we now enter into those parts of Hungary, which lately gave part of his title to the prince of Transylvania.

May xxxi.

Passing two Hungarian miles thro a country more open and well improved, we arrive at _Somlyo_; in which there is an old palace, once a seat of residence for the kings of Hungary. Here the guards and commissary is again changed, _Franciscus Trantzeni_, an Hungarian gentleman, now taking that charge. As we continued in this town the following day, I had an opportunity of conversing with the minister, whose name is _Zovány_.

June i.

We set forward three Hungarian miles to _Margarita_, and in the way cross the _Krasna_, near which are the limits that terminate the parts of Hungary. The soil is here luxuriantly rich, well varied with pasture and intervening woods, and everywhere adorned with damask roses, growing wild on short shrubs. Part of my time was here employed in discoursing with the minister, _Johannes Banki_. But having now passed thro _Transylvania_, as well as the parts of _Hungary_ subject to the same government, it is here proper to recollect some general observations relating to this province.

_Transylvania_, which for many years had been tributary to the Turks, and consequently under the protection of that empire, which still allowed them the choice and government of their own princes, was in the year 1687, under the conduct of the Duke of _Lorrain_, subjected to the arms of the Emperor; and thereupon by capitulation they resigned themselves to the Germans, under whom they have since continued, tho as yet the Emperor has assumed no distinct title from thence. He has ordinarily in garrison here about twelve regiments, which since the peace of _Carlowítz_ serve rather to curb the inhabitants, than to awe the neighbouring Turk. To this end they are now preparing a strong citadel in _Hermanstadt_, and designing others in proper places, on pretence of charges due to these forts and the standing militia. The Emperor exacts yearly severe taxes, of which they generally complain, as being four times more than was exacted by the Turk. For whereas they then paid the yearly tribute and exaction of about two hundred thousand _floreni Rhenenses_, there is this year particularly demanded from them, in the present assembly of the government at _Alba Julia_, the sum of one million forty thousand six hundred, which is charged for the following particulars. The

_Quantum militare_, 750,000.
_Ad fortalitia_, 100,000.
_Debitum principis Duca_[126], 65,600.
_Bonificationes superoneratis_, 60,000.
_Ad salarium camellariae_, 15,000.
_Inevitabiles extraordinariae expensae_ 50,000.

These subsidies are demanded at the assembly in the Emperor’s name, by his commissary, Count _Seau_; and the care of levying and raising it is incumbent on the governor, the chancellor, the treasurers, the _assessores tabulae regiae_, with other officers and members of the assembly. Thus the civil government of the province is committed to the Transylvanian nobility, distinguished by the officers abovementioned; but the military government is, in the hands of General _Rabutin_, who holds the province to a rigid and exact obedience.

Transylvania is in the hands of three distinct people. First the _Szekeli_, which are otherwise corruptly wrote _Sciculi_, _Siculi_, or _Scytuli_[127]. The second are the _Saxones_. And the third are the _Hungari_. The first and third of these speak the same Hungarian language, and are _Hunns_ of the same original, only settled in this country at different times. The _Saxons_ speak intirely the German Saxon language, from which nation they are a colony, and settled here under _Geysa_ the second King of Hungary.

They have each of them their distinct laws, customs, and privileges, and are severally divided after this manner. First the _Szekeli_ into seven _szeks_, namely: _Meros-szék_, _Udvarhel-szék_, _Harom-szék_, _Kesdi Orba Sepsi-szék_, _Csik-szék_, _Gyorgy-szék_, and _Arangus-szék_. Over each of these seats preside so many captains; and being a warlike robust people, still retaining the ferity of the Scythians, of which the whole body of the _Hunni_ was at first a colony, they have been always exempted from taxes and duties to the government, except only the service of war upon occasion under their respective captains. But of late the Emperor has persuaded them to submit to the like taxes and duties, with all other his Transylvanian subjects. On account of their not holding their lands of the government, there is a peculiar custom obtaining among them, that in defect of heirs their estate escheats not to the government, but to the next neighbour.

The _Saxons_ have in like manner their seven seats alloted from their first settlement, namely: _Szerdaky-szék_, _Szeben-szék_, _Brassoy-szék_, _Medyes-szék_, _Segyvar-szék_, _Bestereze-szék_, and _Erdovidek-szék_. Each of these seats have their capital city, called _Regia et libera civitas_. Over this city, and the seat or district belonging to it, presides a _judex regius_, called in their language, _konings rickter_. But the authority and prerogative of the _Judex Cibiniensis_, that is of _Hermanstadt_, extends itself over the several Saxon seats; except that he of _Brassow_ or _Cronstadt_ pretends in many cases an exemption, which has been allowed, because of its too great distance from the tribunal of _Szeben_, or _Hermanstadt_. Besides the authority of this judge, there is a subordinate government in each city by a senate, which ordinarily consists of about sixteen, and a centumvirate or commonalty, tho it seldom contains a complete hundred. Each in their several districts have the _jus gladii_, and all other prerogatives of an intire jurisdiction.

The third and richer part of Transylvania, possessed by the _Hungarians_, is supposed and called the seat of the only Transylvanian nobility; and accordingly it is divided into seven _comitatus_, or residences, of its several courts, namely: The _comitatus Huniadensis_, _Albensis_, _Thordensis_, _Claudiopolitanus_, _Interior et Exterior Zolnokiensis_, _Doboczensis_, and _Krasnaiensis_. Now each of these counties has four _comites_, of which two are called _supremi_, and two _inferiores_; in whose hands, together with other nobles under them, remain the whole jurisdiction and possession of their respective counties; the other inhabitants being not only tenants, but subjects, as they call them, and in some manner slaves to their respective nobles, to whom they ordinarily owe the work of three, and sometimes of more days in the week.

Besides these, the _Valachi_ are every where in great numbers intermixted among the Transylvanian nations, but have no jurisdiction or dominion of their own; and therefore they remain as nourishers of cattle, and in that service slaves and subjects to the rest. And not only _Valachs_[128], but likewise (tho in lesser numbers) there are found up and down in Transylvania, Rascians, Muscovites, Armenians, Jews, and others.

Those called the received religions in Transylvania, that is, those who above the space of an age have obtained the protection of their princes under oath, and of the Emperor under articles upon their late subjection, are four; the Roman Catholic; the Lutheran; the Calvinist, which is here called peculiarly the Reformed; and the Unitarian. The first of these is more frequent in _Szekulia_, but yet not so prevalent as to possess even a tenth part of all Transylvania. The second, or Lutheran, is common to all the Saxon nation in this province. The third flourishes in _Szekulia_, and the _comitatus Hungarici_. The fourth prevails here and there likewise in the same countries, but those who profess it are not so numerous in either. However they have a flourishing college at _Clausenberg_, together with a large church; tho neither for beauty, nor the number of its communicants, equal to that of the Calvinist confession. These several religions are well known, and distinguished by their faith and principles, all over Europe. I shall therefore only say this concerning the discipline of the three last, that their several parishes collected into distinct dioceses are subject to their respective seniors; and these seniors, in their order, are likewise subject to a provincial bishop, who has his court, in which he judges matrimonial and other spiritual causes, and has also the sole power of ordaining, as likewise of calling and presiding over their yearly synod. And to this synod there is adjoined a consistory, which is in the nature of an upper house, and a council to the bishop.

The Lutheran churches are in many places splendid, adorned with organs and pictures, and little differing from the form of our larger churches, except that the altar is immoveable, and built of stone, and sometimes too profusely painted. Their worship consists of forms of prayers, then hymns, after these lessons and sermons, and lastly prayers and concluding hymns. The worship of the Unitarians exactly corresponds with that of the Calvinists. These latter have sermons twice a week, besides Sundays, as also morning and evening service throughout the week, at which appear large and devout congregations in many places. Their service is a metre psalm, a prayer from the pulpit, and then concludes with another psalm. They have a form of prayer, and an injunction of their bishop to make use of no other; but the custom of most ministers has introduced the use of their own premeditated devotions, and accordingly the people begin to disesteem those, who confine themselves to the form. The Lutherans, Calvinists, and Unitarians live peaceably with one another; but are not admitted to each others communion of Christ’s body, without a special declaration of conformity. The Lutherans in some places consecrate a wafer, and in other places leaven bread. They likewise have auricular confession, but abuse it not, as the Papists. Their main difference from the Calvinists consists in their avowed corporeal ubiquitarian presence. Among other known tenets of the Unitarians, by which they take away the force of the Christian sacraments, tho they generally use infant baptism not to give scandal to the Calvinists, yet they rather wish to delay it till the age of twelve years or upwards, and often practice accordingly.

These three protestant religions remain as yet in the undisturbed profession of their faith. But upon several late encroachments of the Jesuits, and other priests, in confidence of the popish government, to which they are subject; upon the withdrawing of the tithes usually paid to the protestant ministers from the salt mines, and now given to popish monks; and lastly upon the care, which is taken by the court of Vienna, to supply all offices of the province with papist ministers: upon these several accounts, I say, the whole reformed people of Transylvania, especially the Calvinists, begin to be under great apprehensions, and from the governor to the meanest gentleman, earnestly embraced this occasion of recommending their cause to the good services of his Excellency at the Imperial court; after which they implored the prayers and good wishes of the church of England, and in many places took a solemn melancholy leave of us, as if they were just entering upon a martyrdom.

The religion of the Valachs, Muscovites, Armenians, Rascians, and others, is that of their respective nations in their proper seats and countries. And it may be farther noted in relation to the religion of Transylvania, that as in Hungary, so here likewise, the Jesuits, who were before excluded by a positive article, have now an express liberty of entering and setling in this province. Nor can I omit to remark the great and blameable facility both of the Calvinists, and Lutherans, in matters of divorce.

After the religion of Transylvania, the natural soil of the country falls under consideration; which is luxuriantly rich, well cultivated, full of inhabitants, and conveniently distinguished with a sufficient quantity of wood, hills, and water. The surface of the earth is almost every where black, without the least stone to be observed in many places; and in several tracts so fertile, as not to require the advantage of dung, except only some parts of _Siculia_ where it is used. Besides all kinds of grain, which grow on the surface of the earth, within it abounds with veins of metals, minerals, and fossils of all sorts, particularly of gold; so that, as I was informed by the Emperor’s inspector of his mines, there was last year dug here to the value of twenty five thousand _zechins_. But among other fossils the native cinnabar is most rare, and the quicksilver which is here found to perfection. Salt is dug in several places, in the manner described above[129]; by which a large revenue accrues to the Emperor, to whom the property of all mines belongs. But in the mean time the people suffer in the price of this commodity; for since their late subjection to the Emperor, a stone of salt weighing about an hundred pounds can scarce be bought for three florins, whereas heretofore three stones of salt were sold for one florin. The money current in Transylvania is that of the Emperor, the _quarts_ of Poland, with some other coins. The reports related by some, who were eye witnesses, concerning diverse particles of gold found in the products of their vineyards, both here and about the celebrated mountain of _Tokái_, are very remarkable; of which I shall only mention these following. A piece of gold is said to have grown to a vine, instead of the green tendrel, by which it takes hold of the adjoining trees, or other substance that supports it. Pure gold was found in a grape, instead of its ordinary natural stone. Small gold drops were observed to adhere to the skin of a grape. And even an intire grape had been seen to consist of a perfect coat of gold.

As to the temper and disposition of the inhabitants, they appear cordial and hospitable, drink almost continually, and eat plentifully, are unpolite but importunate in their civility, and even the vulgar sort usually speak Latin; they are of a robust constitution, and principally the _Siculians_, who have likewise a fierce and stately mein. Their habit is a short waistcoat made very close to the body[130], and sleeves with flaps to them, that come over the backs of their hands. Their breeches are likewise close to their thighs, and from thence continued down in the form of a stocking to their feet. But on their legs they commonly wear yellow or red boots, to which are constantly fixed spurs, often three inches long. Over their waistcoat, when they go abroad, they throw a loose but short fur vest, which is either embroidered, or adorned with silver loops, on each side before. The habit of the women, who for the most part are beautiful and courteous, is a close narrow bodice, and from thence petticoats, as usual with us in England; but over their arms they wear loose linen sleeves, resembling those of a bishop’s rochet. Their head dress is low, and among those of the better sort richly adorned with pretious stones; much resembling some old English pictures, particularly those of _Henry_ the eighth’s wives. They likewise wear over their shoulders the same sort of fur vest, as the men; but the inferior sort are usually drest, when abroad, in a long and loose black mantle, reaching from their shoulders down to the ground, and all round gathered into deep and numberless folds, not unlike the gowns worn by the islanders in the _Archipelago_. Maids likewise wear a black ring of velvet on their head, which they call a crown, and resembles the figure of an hat without brims. With regard to matrons, their law formerly admitted no proof of adultery, unless under the eye witness of twenty four persons at least; which in a virtuous age was an egregious testimony to the chastity of their women, but in a vitious one must needs prove too great an encouragment to that heinous sin. The Hungarians and Siculians have an odd fashion of shaving their head round the lower part, and leaving the hair at the top, which afterwards they tie into a knot, and let it hang over one or other of their temples. This custom they might possibly have received of old from the Sicambrians (who once built the city _Sicambria_, and settled a colony there) since they were antiently famed for the like manner of knotting of their hair[131]. We may further observe a certain infelicity of Transylvania, as well as the adjoining parts of Hungary, in persuading themselves at least, that they are infested with witchcraft. For women of all ages are yearly executed for that crime, and this commonly upon evidence of their having threatned mischief to their neighbours, their children, goods, cattle, or other effects, and some correspondent effect, which has seemed afterwards to happen. In the Saxon seats of Transylvania they often put them to that vulgar trial of water; and I have heard it avowed by those, who have declared themselves to have been eye witnesses, that some suspected persons could never sink below the surface of the water, when others immediately subsided to the bottom[132]. And in such cases the poor afflicted, tortured, and now perhaps distracted person, confesses the indictment, and then without the least repreive is committed to the faggot. But as ignorant places have been always reputed most subject to witchcraft, this very well suits the state of Transylvania; where every petty district is the seat of its own judicature, and the power of life and death is consequently lodged in illiterate and superstitious persons.

June ii.

But it is now time to proceed on our journey, in which one Hungarian mile and a half carried us to _Szekhelyhíd_, where his Excellency lodged in the house of a popish prelate, by name _Joannes Smitz_, of the order of the _Praemonstratenses_, a gentile and agreable person. In his parlour, where he had an altar and crucifix, I observed over the former a profane picture of the _Holy Trinity_, representing an _Old Man_, with his _Son_ sitting betwixt his legs, and at the son’s feet the _Holy Ghost_ in the shape of a _dove_.

June iii.

Three Hungarian miles and a half farther brought us this day to _Debrecyn_, thro a rich soil, not destitute of wood, nor water; the latter of which is plentifully found in this countrey, as also in Transylvania and Valachia, by reason of its frequent and extended lakes; tho fountains are scarce any where to be observed. This city has lately obtained the privilege of being _libera et regia_ from the Emperor, in consideration of its late grievous oppressions between the Turkish and German forces; since which, like other free cities, it is governed by its own judge, senate, and commonalty. It is large and populous, and sets up for the bulwark of the reformed church in Hungary; which character it maintains by its large and well disciplined college of almost two hundred students, under the care of two eminent professors; one of divinity, named _Johannes Koes_, who is likewise bishop or superintendent of the province; and the other of philosophy, whose name is _Michael Vaári_. As this college is kept in good repair, so the students are allowed their constant diet, and the professors receive their salary, at the sole charge of the city. There are likewise two spatious churches, served by three able and learned pastors, _Thomas Veresedgyhazi_, _Michael Rapoti_, and _Stephanus Patai_. The city is likewise furnished at the public charge with a capacious and well stored dispensary.

Before his Excellency approached this place, he was complimented by several messengers from the mayor, who commands the militia here, then by the judge, senators, and others; and at length by the bishop, professors, pastors, and scholars. With this retinue his Excellency entered the city, which was orderly lined with arms as far as his lodgings. These were appointed for him in the house of one _Stephanus Dobozi_, a rich, generous, and learned gentleman; who among other public designs is now undertaking to print a new version of the Hungarian _Bible_, to be distributed among the reformed Christians of that kingdom.

June iv.

This being _Corpus Christi_ day, his Excellency continued at _Debrecyn_; at which time I took the opportunity of visiting the bishop, professors, and pastors of the town, the first of whom presented me with an handkerchief of the Hungarian fashion. I was introduced to them by one _Paul Gyongyóssi_, who met us in this place from a neighbouring cure. He had lately traveled into England, and resided sometime in _Glocester Hall, Oxford_, where he was known to my brother of dear memory. But in his return home thro _Vienna_ his books were seized, to the value of five hundred florins, by Cardinal _Colonicza_, archbishop of _Strigonium_; on which account he now solicited the favour and interest of his Excellency. He presented me with the _Canones Ecclesiae Reformatae Hungariae_.

June v.

This morning the judge and magistrates of _Debrecyn_ presented his Excellency with a gentile sword, and two small vessels of the best _Tokái_ wine. And after traveling one Hungarian mile and a half thro a dead extended plain, void of tree or shrub, we came to _Ujvaros_. Here I first took notice of the Hungarian sheep, which are distinguished from most others by their horns, which are long, straight, and twisted; also by their wool, which is exceeding coarse.

June vi.

Three Hungarian miles thro the same level and naked plain brought us this day to _Csege_, which is a pass over the _Tibiscus_. In our way hither we had in view on the right hand, at the distance of about five miles, the celebrated mountain of _Tokái_, in compass about ten Hungarian miles, and renowned for its generous wines. At the aforesaid _Csege_ we ferry over the _Tibiscus_ in two large flat bottomed boats, thence we travel for some time with the river on our right hand, and then strike into the plain to _Csat_, a large village about one Hungarian mile from _Csege_, where we fix our quarters.

June vii.

His Excellency stayed this day at _Csat_, at which time I had some conversation with the minister, _Stephanus Szirák_, formerly a traveler in England. Here I took notice of the fair, white, and stately cattle of Hungary; and walked in the feilds, to enjoy a more distinct prospect of the mountain _Tokái_.

June viii.

We proceed one Hungarian mile and a half thro the same plain to _Proszlo_, which is situated on a large and diffused lake, supplied by the _Tibiscus_, into which it empties itself. In our way hither, we left at a near distance on our right hand the city _Agria_, and the mountains denominated from thence.

June ix.

We move one Hungarian mile and a half forward in the same plain, and at the same distance from the mountains of _Agria_, to _Alány_. Before diner his Excellency with a retinue went an English mile from hence, in order to visit a new country house and garden belonging to the worthy General _Glychensberg_; who by donation from the Emperor possesses great part of this village, as likewise of that where we lodged last night. I had here an occasion to observe the Hungarian houses under ground, having unawares like to have dropt into a chimney. We took notice likewise of a _plica Polonica_ in the hair of his Excellency’s landlord; who told us, that it being once cut off by his wife, he became perfectly blind for three months, and did not recover his sight, till the _plica_ was grown out and formed again. The same thing is common to most horses in this country.

June x.

From _Alány_ we go on this day two Hungarian miles to _Arokszalles_, thro the same plain, the soil of which is as black as coal, and in most places overrun with weeds and marshes for want of tillage. In the midway we cross the small river _Both_, by which is a posthouse of the same name. _Arokszalles_ is a popish village, the first of that sort we had seen in Hungary. It belongs to the Prince of _Newburg_, Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ order, who has bought lately of the Emperor a large compass of ground on both sides the _Tibiscus_ for a million of florins. From our quarters we have in view to the right of our road, at the foot of a pleasant tract of mountains, the city _Gyongyossi_, lately taken from the Protestants (as they told us at _Debrecyn_) by the injuries of the Jesuits and other Romanists.

June xi.

We continue our journey one Hungarian mile to _Hatwan_, thro the same plain, along the foss of an antient _Roman_ camp. The hills of _Gyongyóssi_ are still at a near distance on our right hand, in which four Hungarian miles from _Arokszalles_ is the famous gold mine of _Kremnytz_, with others of silver, iron, and other minerals, in the same neighbourhood. _Hatwan_ was lately a walled city, and is now inhabited by Romanists, being the property of the Prince of _Solmes_, grand master to the King of the _Romans_. The Emperor constantly employs five hundred labourers in the mines of _Kremnytz_, tho of late years they are said to fail. At _Hatwan_, as in all Hungary, I observed the method of burying their corn in holes under ground, as _Hirtius_ remarks of the Africans[133].

June xii.

At _Hatwan_ we immediately cross the small river _Zagywa_, and thence proceed one Hungarian mile and half thro a pleasant variety of woods and pastures, valleys and hills, to _Kerepes_; where at a neat German house his Excellency staid to breakfast, and then went forward the same length of way thro a naked, tho not so level a plain, to _Pest_. At his entry here he is saluted by the canon from the opposite castle of _Buda_, and lodged at the _Fountain_ inne. _Pest_ is now a small but compact city, intirely built out of the ruins, to which it was reduced by the two late sieges of _Buda_. Its antient wall, with the battlements and bastions, is still intire, and incloses it in the figure of an half moon, terminating on the banks of the _Danube_, which completes the remaining circuit of the city. There are still extant three or four _minarées_ of Turkish _mosques_, now devoted to Christian use. But what gives just offence both to Turks and Christians is a new pillar, erected in the market place, and bearing on its top a large stone sculpture of the _Trinity_; a figure as common, as it is scandalous, in Germany.

June xiii.

This day his Excellency remained here, which gave Mr. Paget and myself an opportunity of passing over to _Buda_ on a flying bridge, which is maintained by the city _Pest_. The famous city of _Buda_ is the capital of Hungary, and was the seat of its Kings till the year fifteen hundred twenty nine, when by treachery it fell into the hands of _Solymán_ the _Great_; since which it was several times attempted by the Christian arms, but never successfully, till the year sixteen hundred sixty eight. And it yet remains in the same condition, in which that terrible siege had left it, with regard to its fortifications; but the private houses, especially those of the _Rascian_ and _Water Town_, are again handsomely rebuilt. That, which is called the _Upper Town_, is likewise begining to be reinhabited, but not equally with the other two. The situation of the whole city lies in the following manner. From the banks of the _Danube_, which here runs N. W. and S. E. there arises a steep and oblong hill, the length of about half a mile, and the hight of about two hundred paces, on which stands, what is called the _Upper Town_. This on the N. W. end has that famous castle, which was the palace of the Hungarian Kings; and from thence the walls and other fortifications are continued round the town. On both ends of the hill are two small valleys, each of which has a large suburb; that on the N. W. end called the _Rascian_, and that on the S. E the _Water Town_. The latter of these is larger, and much better built; and extends itself not only in the valley above mentioned, but likewise betwixt the _Danube_ and a great part of the hill, on which the wall and _Upper Town_ is built. Just beyond the _Rascian Town_ is a steep and sharp rocky hill, which in case of a siege must needs annoy the castle; and along the backside of the city wall is extended, at a nearer distance, another rising ground, which must likewise gall that side of the fortification. These therefore the Imperialists must possess with proper forts, whenever they undertake to repair the wall and castle of _Buda_; the present remains of which were shewn us this morning by the lieutenant of the ordnance, the most remarkable whereof were these which follow. The hall of the royal palace, in which the carved windows, chimney pieces, and other decorations, shewed the work of an excellent hand; and were embelished, among other devises, with the arms of _Matthias Corvinus_. The several canons, mortar pieces, bombs, and other artillery, which make the present ammunition of the castle. The two breaches, one entered by the Bavarians, and the other by the Imperialists, when they took the place. The wooden gate, hewn at the bottom by the Imperialists, which action gave the last rout to the Turks. The stone arched chamber, which they maintained to the last; tho the Bavarians had been many days lodged in the next adjoining apartment, and nothing but a single wall remained betwixt the two enemies. The well and capacious cistern, sufficient to afford water for that numerous Turkish garrison, which at first consisted of twenty four thousand men. What else occurs observable in this place, is first the prospect, which we took from the _Water Town_ of old _Buda_, or _Sicambria_ of the Romans, about an English mile from hence, up the stream of the river. And secondly, the famous sulphureous baths, exactly opposite to the city _Pest_, which are supplied by a plentiful hot fountain, that runs from the steep rocky hill before mentioned in the neighbourhood of the _Rascian Town_.

At midday we were invited to diner by the administrator, or chief civil magistrate of the place. By his office he is president of the _camera Budensis_, which consists of twelve officers, and enjoys great revenues, as well as an entire jurisdiction for many miles round the city. His Imperial Majesty has about fourteen hundred men in Garrison at _Buda_ and _Pest_, under General _Pefferhoft_, who was now gone to demolish the fortifications of _Erla_; it being the Emperor’s design to divest this country of all its lesser forts, which at this juncture might be a refuge to any rebellious subjects. The whole country of Hungary to this place is a black and rich soil, without one stone to be observed, except in towns; and abounds with lakes. The wine of _Buda_ exactly resembles that of _Bourdeaux_, and for these two last years, by an agent of the Earl of _Nottingham_, has began to be imported into England, by the way of _Breslaw_.

June xiv.

Early this morning we depart from _Buda_, when his Excellency was again saluted by the guns of the castle. Three Hungarian miles thro a rich, woody, and well watered country bring us to _Biéske_; a village where the Protestant are most numerous, but were nevertheless deprived of the parish church last year by the Romanists.

June xv.

Three more Hungarian miles carry us this day to _Koes_, thro a continued wood, wherein are observable many curious trees, herbs, and flowers, particularly the _fraxinella_; to say nothing of the damask roses, hyacinths, _barbaréae_, _lilia convallium_, and some others, obvious in our whole road thro Hungary.

June xvi.

From _Koes_, where his Excellency lodged the last night, in an house of Count _Estzerhazi_, Palatin of Hungary, it is one Hungarian mile to _Igmand_, at which we arrive by eight a clock this morning. And one mile from thence toward the right hand we stop to see the city and fort of _Komora_. In a post calash we arrive on the banks of the _Danube_ by ten a clock, and passing over in a boat enter the city, which is seated on the point of the island _Schut_, where it is washed on one side by the _Danube_ itself; and on the other by that branch of it, which takes the name of _Wag_, from that river falling into it not far above the city _Komora_. The extreme point of this island is possessed by the castle and fort, consisting of four bastions, and an angle at the farther end, which represents the figure of a tortoise. Before the gate and drawbridge there is a place of arms, and before that another strait fortification with two bastions and an half moon, added by the present Emperor. This was the last bulwark against the Turks, before the success of the last war, and is called the _Virgin Fort_, in token of its having never been taken by the enemy. To perpetuate the memory of this, the statue of a virgin is erected in one angle of that bastion, which is on the left hand at the entrance of the place. After this view of the castle we content ourselves with a slighter view of the town, which appears neat and compact; and by two a clock return to his Excellency’s quarters at _Igmand_, the whole way lying over a green, naked, and level plain. In the castle of _Komora_ I found the three following inscriptions, two of them in Latin, and the third in Greek, which are cut upon stone coffins.

D. M.
M. VAL. VALERIANI LEG.
IIII FL. VIXIT AN. XLII
ET M. VAL. VLPIO EQ. PV
BL. FIL. VIXIT AN. VIII SIMV
L CONDITIS VLPIA PARA
TIANE MARITO ET FILIO
ET VLPIA VALERIA FILIA
HEREDES F. C.

D. M.
MEMORIAE IVLI
AE EMERITAE QVAE VI
XIT AN I̶I̶I̶ VALERIA MASO
LENIA FILIAE PIISSIMAE

ΠΑΛΜΥΡΙ ΕΥΨΥΧΕΙ ΜΕΤΑ ΠΑΤΡΟΣ

June xvii.

Our next stage, which was three Hungarian miles, brought us from _Igmand_ to _Rab_, thro a level country, and well cultivated. Half an hour before we enter the town, his Excellency is met by a troop of _Hussars_ well mounted, and each man carrying a small flag in his hand. _Rab_, which is the proper government of the Prince of _Baden_, is pleasantly seated at the confluence of the rivers _Rab_ and _Rabnitz_, which unite near the walls of the castle, and then in one stream immediately fall into the _Danube_. The castle is large, and well fortified with seven bastions, four cavaliers, and proportionable outworks. It contains within an ample space of ground, possessed with houses, and divided into streets, which make the best part of the city, the rest being more scattered and diffused on both sides of the _Rabnitz_. It is now about a century, since this place was taken from the Turks by a stratagem of Count _Schaurtzenburg_, who applying a petard to one of the gates in the night, at one stroke blew open the great iron door, which flew many paces within the town, and is now kept as a memorial of the fact in the cathedral church. The Turks marched in the sight of this garrison to the siege of _Vienna_, and received several shot from thence; and at their return, had the Imperialists of this place known their defeat, they might have intercepted their passage, by cutting down the bridges of the _Rab_.

June xviii.

His Excellency staying this day at _Rab_, I took the opportunity of visiting _Stephanus Morsai_, the reformed minister of the place. And about ten a clock Mr. Stepney, her Majesty’s Envoy Extraordinary at _Vienna_, with the young Earl of Bridgwater, and his brother Mr. Egerton, came to _Rab_ to meet my Lord Paget, and welcome him into these parts.

June xix.

This day, thro frequent villages and fruitful feilds, we continue our journey two Hungarian miles to _Hungrisch Altenburg_, a small town with fair buildings, enclosed with a wall, and seated on the river _Leyta_, which at the distance of half a mile falls into the _Danube_. Here Mr. Stepney, my Lord Paget, and some others proceed directly to _Vienna_.

June xx.

Three Hungarian miles, thro a delicious and well tilled country, in sight of _Presburg_ castle, we proceed to _Pruck_; just at the entrance of which we cross the _Leyta_, and by that means pass out of _Hungary_ into _Austria_, of which _Pruck_ is the first town in this road. It is a considerable compact place, neatly built with an appearing magnificence, which they affect by building their houses high and uniform towards the street. It has a castle and a strong wall, tho not sufficient against the present art of war. In the market place is a pillar, that bears a profane image of the _Trinity_, the _Father_ in the figure of an old man, the _Son_ standing at his right hand, and the _Holy Ghost_ in the shape of a _dove_ hovering betwixt their heads. Here is an handsome convent of Augustin friars, and in the market place a new church not yet finished, which promises something both beautiful and magnificent.

June xxi.

This day, being Sunday, we continue at _Pruck_, when I took an occasion of walking by the banks of the _Leyta_, in pleasant and delightful meadows.

June xxii.

Four German miles from hence bring us to _Schweka_, a neat village near _Eberstorff_; where is a palace of the Emperor, and a large park, enclosed by the _Danube_ and the _Schweka_.

June xxiii.

By three in the afternoon his Excellency moves from hence, and in an hour and a half, at the distance of two German miles, happily arrives at _Vienna_; where he is lodged in the suburbs, betwixt the _Caristhian_ gate and the _Favorita_, in a palace of Count _Sterembergh_. After the repose of a day or two his Excellency had a separate audience of the Emperor, and Empress, the Archduke _Carlo_, and the four Archdutchesses. And being visited by most of the nobility, courtiers, and ministers of the place, he afterwards took occasion of returning their respective visits.

_Vienna_ is seated on a point of land, made by the confluence of the river _Wien_ and a branch of the _Danube_, which latter here enlarges itself about a thousand paces from its main chanel. The city is of a moderate circumference, scarce containing more than four thousand paces within the circuit of the walls; but round these, at a large distance, are extended many diffused suburbs, by means of which it may be placed among the larger cities of Europe. The fortifications are effective, regular, and intire; a large uninterrupted glacis, a strong pale, a deep and wide foss, a substantial curtain lined with brick, thirteen bastions, and as many ravelins, with six well defended gates. Answerable to these there are two arsenals within the city; one for ammunition and artillery belonging to the Emperor, and the other for small arms belonging to the citizens. The streets, tho few of them broad, are yet all of them fair and moderately straight, ranged on each side with lofty houses of four or five stories high, built with a good appearance, tho not really magnificent; for they shew a regularity of architecture in their windows, cornishes, and water tables, but the materials are only brick walls incrusted in imitation of freestone. Among the buildings of the city are interspersed several oblong piazzas, adorned with fountains, tho of no great art or curiosity. Yet there are two squares, each of which exhibits a considerable public monument; one being the pillar of the _Blessed Virgin_, and the other that of the most _Holy Trinity_. The former of these is a brass column, adorned round the four corners of the basis with as many figures of angels, and on the chapiter bearing a noble statue of the _Madonna_, with her feet resting on a dragon. It was begun by the last Emperor, and finished by the present; and exhibits four religious or superstitious inscriptions, the chief of which is a triumphant declaration of the immaculate conception, as now confirmed by a papal verdict, and hence forward to be received as an article of faith. The latter pillar, called that of the _Holy Trinity_, is a magnificent column of marble and freestone rising sixty six feet high, almost in the form of a pyramid. It was the work of ten years, finished in 1692, at the expence of a hundred thousand florins, and erected by the present Emperor in commemoration of this city, and the dukedom of _Austria_, being delivered from the plague in the year 1679. It is adorned in three corners with these inscriptions, _Deo Patri Creatori_, _Deo Filio Redemptori_, _Deo Spiritui Sanctificatori_; and in three other places with larger devotions and dedications, composed by his Imperial Majesty. From the basis it rises in continual orbs and protuberances of clouds, surrounded with several intire angelic figures, out of which are seen the wings and heads of others. But on the top is represented in gilt brass the _Most Holy Trinity_: the _Holy Ghost_, as a _dove_, irradiated; the _Son_ in an human figure, holding a cross; and the _Father_ at his left hand, with no marks of majesty, but clothed in a loose gown, like an old man, bearing a globe in his right hand. At the bottom is the Emperor himself, kneeling indeed in a posture of devotion, but otherwise represented with more marks of honour and majesty, than the _Divine Being_ which he adores. The figure of _God the Father_ is very frequent in Austria, and variously expressed, some times in a nightgown and cap, and at other times with a papal crown.

The cathedral church of this place is dedicated to _St. Stephen_, and is a stately antient building, having an high tower adorned throughout with crotchets so strong, that it withstood several canon shot in the late siege. It is now repaired, and bears in the work the date of that year, which was 1683. On the spire it has a cross rising from between the wings of the _Roman eagle_, instead of the _half moon_, which stood there before by compact with _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_. The inside of the church is divided into three isles, at the upper end of which are many magnificent altars, with at least thirty more dispersed about the pillars and other corners of the church. Near the principal of these the walls are almost covered with pictures and sculpture, superstitiously dedicated on occasion of so many vows there made; which I call therefore, in the words of that ingenious heathen poet, _Tabulis sacer votivis paries_. Over the great altar is placed the picture of the Madonna, by the name of _Sta. Maria de Boes_, brought not long since from Hungary on occasion of its having shed tears; of which, I saw one at _Sancta Margarita_, who pretended to be an eye witness. The anniversary of the day it was brought to _Vienna_, and of that, on which it wept, are celebrated by a public feast, when the Emperor likewise hears mass on the occasion. There is likewise another miraculous image of the _Virgin_ at the lower north door of the cathedral, which is daily so thronged with worshipers on their knees, that it gives offence to the bishop of this city, who is endeavouring to suppress the picture, as well as the abuse. In this door is a white stone, worn considerably by the touch of all that enter there, as being thought to be one of those, with which _St. Stephen_ was martyred. Round the body of the church are frequent monuments well carved, and some sculptures of the _History of the Gospel_, which can scarce any where be exceeded. There is likewise a new saint, whose statue of stone has been lately erected on all the bridges of _Vienna_. He is styled under his picture, _S. Joannes Mepomienus, Martyr_, who was drowned by a King of Bohemia for not discovering a confession of the Queen.

Besides this cathedral there are four or five parochial churches, of which the most remarkable is that of _St. Michael_; but among such a multitude of conventual churches, and each of these furnished with a large number of altars, the parochial are in a great measure obscured. The most splendid convents of the place are first, that of the Dominicans; after this the Benedictines, formerly belonging to the _Scotch_; then two belonging to the Jesuits, of which one is called the _Domus professa_, the other the _college_; next the Minorite Franciscans, then the Angustines, and lastly the Capuchines. Of these the Minorite Franciscans have in their chapel a pattern of the _Scala sancta_; the Augustines the _Capella aulica_, and the pattern of the _Temple of Loretto_; the Capuchines a small but pretty chapel in one side of their church, wherein are buried the deceased of the Imperial family. The roof of the church belonging to the college of Jesuits is now newly painted in perspective, that is inimitable, by _P. Pozzo_ of that society; who likewise did the celebrated perspective in the church of that society at _Rome_.

_Vienna_ was made the seat of the Imperial family by _Ferdinand_ the second, who translated it from _Gratz_. The imperial and royal palaces belonging to this place are, one old one in the city, usually called the _Bourg_; another in the suburb opposite to the Corinthian gate, called the Favorite; a third at _Eberstorff_, two hours distant from the city; and a fourth at _Luxemburg_, at the distance of two hours and a half. All these are plain, but capacious and convenient buildings; and the Emperor divides his residence betwixt them, according to the different seasons of the year. But at _Schonbran_, about two English miles distant from _Vienna_, is a new palace as yet in some measure unfinished; which is built for the King of the _Romans_ after the Italian mode, adorned in the pinacles with statues, a gentle ascent and spatious stairs up to the entrance, beautified with a regular garden behind, and on the front two ranges of stables and offices, that form a regular square court. The rooms and apartments within are stately and well proportioned, and the doors and chimney pieces richly built with Polonian marble. Besides these, in the way to _Eberstorff_ are to be seen the stately remains of the palace, called _Neugebac_; which was destroyed by the Turks in the late siege, and is not yet repaired. However there appears a regular front, consisting of proper pillars; and in some apartments of this ruined house are kept several wild beasts of great curiosity. These, with some others at _Schonbran_, I took an opportunity of viewing, and shall here give a brief account of them. At _Neugebac_ are two _lions_, one of which is about five years old, but the most stately and majestic as can well be seen. Three _cassawares_, a species of bird without wings, the body of the size and shape of a sheep, the legs long and thick in proportion, the neck tall with a blue but blunt crest, the feathers black and exactly resembling those of an ostrich. Three _tigers_, one of a large and unusual size. Two _leopards_ well spotted, their ears short, their head like that of a cat, but their body more approaching to a mongrel greyhound; they are swift, and hunt hares, or other creatures, which are thrown into their walk. Several _lynces_, nothing different (as I am informed) from the panther; they are spotted with larger circles than a tiger or leopard, and much resemble a wild cat, but exceed it in size. An _hyaena_, much resembling a mastif, but the nose more round and contracted, a large belly, and a brindled spotted skin. A _beaver_, which is a little amphibious animal, of a flat figure, with a short neck and legs, a soft and thick fur, and a bare tail. These which follow, are at _Schonbran_. Several _wild goats_, the males with large horns, and therefore by the antients called _aegoceros_. Two _ostriches_, the one five, the other fifteen years old, the head higher than the ordinary stature of a man, the feathers black, except on the tail and tip of the wings, where they are milk white, the thighs perfectly bare, the legs long and substantial, the feet divided into two broad pulpy claws, which are thought poisonous, and in figure somewhat resembling those of a camel, whence they are called in Latin _camelostruthi_. Two _antilopes_. A she _elk_, a timerous animal, which is made much like an hind, with a broad excrescent mouth. Three _uri_, in the figure of a bull, but a thicker and shorter neck, with the appearance of prodigious strength, and one of them, very large. But concerning these two last species a fuller account may be seen in _Caesar_, _De B. Gall._ _Lib._ vi. _cap._ 5.