Chapter I: O. M

C. SEMPRONIVS
VRBANVS
PROC. Φ. AVG[118].

The same gentleman shewed me also the cathedral church of this place, entertained me with the music of the organ, and presented me with a book called _Breviculus de nationibus Transylvanicis_. Another on the same subject was given me the day before by the _rector scholae Cibiniensis_, which place with the adjoining library I then visited. This night I likewise returned a visit to the reverend _Isaacus Zabanius, primarius pastor Cibiniensis, et ecclesiae cathedralis decanus_, by whom and his wife I was kindly entertained above three hours. He then gave me an Answer, which he had formerly compiled, to _Campiani Rationes decem_.

May xviii.

By six this morning his Excellency and retinue leaving _Hermanstadt_ were attended by the General, and gentlemen above mentioned, beyond the adjoining river, after which they all took a cordial leave; especially lieutenant colonel _Graven_, to whom his Excellency presented a diamond ring. We now proceed in our way, at which time I received an obliging letter from Mr. Dunster, with an account of my successor’s arrival at _Smyrna_ upon the seventeenth of _April_.

_Hermanstadt_ is a fair city, consisting of well proportioned houses, regularly plaistered and covered with brick; and is incompassed with an intire brick wall, and that again with the water either of a mote, or river, which surrounds it. Over the gate, by which we entered, is the statue of _Hermannus_, the founder of the place. It is designed to be yet farther fortified by the Germans; for which end they are now marking out the place of a citadel, which they propose to build so strong and regular, as thereby to curb not only this city, but the whole province. It is intirely inhabited by Saxons, and consequently by professors of the Lutheran or Augustan confession. They have here three churches, of which the cathedral is large and well adorned. The General, and German garrison, which now consists of twelve hundred men, as likewise a few other papists, are fain to be contented with a private chapel. General _Rabutin_ is a comely, courteous, and facetious gentleman, of severe discipline, and prudent management of the Imperial soldiery, which thro this whole province, to the number of about ten thousand men, is committed to his charge. He is of French extraction, and was forced to fly while young, on account of a duel, from his native country to the court of _Vienna_; where after long service he at length obtained favour of the Princess of _Holstein_ then wife to Chancellor _Sinsendorff_; who after that minister’s death condescended to marry him, and so raised him to his present pitch of fortune. The civil government is in the hands of the _Judex Cibiniensis_, whose jurisdiction reaches not only over this city, but even the whole Saxon district. Next to him is the _Consul Cibiniensis_, whose government is confined within the city. And besides these there is a senate of about sixteen, and then a commonalty of about an hundred men. The place in Latin is called _Cibinium_, from the adjoining river _Cibin_.

Before eleven a clock we again take up our quarters at _Visakna_, that is, _Saltzburg_, so called from the _salt mines_; which I visited this afternoon, in company with the minister of the place, _Joannes Nagy Borosnyai_ of the Helvetian confession. The salt is here dug, and cut into stones (as they call them) of a square figure, and about an hundred pound in weight. Being so prepared in the cavern, which at the bottom extends itself very wide in the manner of a dome, they are drawn up by cables, of which one winds round an adjoining machine drawn by four horses, and the other unwinds at the same time. The pit itself is square, lined within with planks, as far as the earthy soil reaches, and extending afterwards to the depth of about an hundred yards. These stones are afterwards laid up in magazines, to be transported on occasion by the _Maros_ into the _Danube_, and thence vended into Turkey or Germany for the use of the Emperor, who is the sole proprietor of all the natural mines, with which this province abounds. The above mentioned minister here gave me some _gemmae salis_, as pellucid as ordinary crystal. He is a man well learned, and has traveled into many countries, particularly England. At the same place I likewise received a present of some _specimina metallica_, namely gold, cinnabar, antimony, and others; which were sent me by a gentleman, named _Samuel Koloseri_, the Emperor’s general inspector of the Transylvanian mines.

May xix.

We depart hence for _Tsanad_ and arrive there before twelve a clock; from whence his Excellency designing for _Enyed_ by the way of _Balasfalva_, Mr. Montague, Mr. _Gangain_, and myself take this opportunity of steping out of the way to see _Alba Julia_, or _Wissenburg_. We therefore hire a post calash by five a clock in the afternoon, and it being distant three long Hungarian miles in dirty way, we scarce arrive there by twelve at night, having near the city crossed the _Maurusius_ over a wooden bridge. In our way thither we saw a gang of _Zingans_, or gypses, common in this and the neighbouring provinces, as well as Turkey.

May xx.

His Excellency continued his journey this day to _Balasfalva_; and in the morning we at _Abba Julia_ wait on the governor, Count _Banti_, a worthy and courteous protestant nobleman, but for many years weakened and tormented with the colic. We were conducted to him thro the room, where the _comitia totius Transylvaniae_ are now held; and where Count _Seau_, commissary for his Imperial Majesty, solicites the states for raising of subsidies, and proposes other orders to them from the court of _Vienna_. This done, we visit likewise Count _Seau_; who was so complaisant as to shew us the castle where he dwells, being a magnificent palace, and lately the residence of the princes of Transylvania. At the same time we viewed the large Calvinist church adjoining thereto, which is a lofty and stately fabric, but has suffered much from the Tartars, who defaced the fair monuments, and burnt the tower, in the year sixteen hundred and fifty eight. It is now fortified with a ditch and rampart, which is likewise usual all over Transylvania. The above mentioned monuments are of _Joannes Corvinus_, commonly called _Huniades_; of Queen _Isabella_, and her son _Ladislaus_; of _Sigismund_, and _George Ragotzi_, together with the famous _Gabriel Bethlen_. The same morning we paid a visit to the bishop of the reformed church in Transylvania, who resides here, and is likewise pastor of the place, by name _Stephanus Vespreni_. He is an old man, seems decayed in his parts, and is troubled with a palsy in his tongue. With him we saw the professor of the _Schola Albensis_, which in the year sixteen hundred seventy two was translated hither from _Patak_ in Hungary. He is a learned, curious, and laborious man, teaches divinity, natural philosophy, the tongues, and mathematics; has traveled into England and other countries, and is a great admirer of the English; for which reason his study is full of our books, and he both writes, and speaks, and even teaches our language once a week to his scholars. His name is _Kaposi Samuel_, and was made _S. Theologiae Doctor_ by a _diploma_ from the Prince of Orange. These visits performed, we repair to Count _Banti’s_ to diner, where we were honoured with a splendid feast; the governor keeping his chamber. There sat at table the Lady governess, who is of the family of _Bethlen_, with Countess _Bethlen Samuel_, Count _Bethlen Nicolas_ chancellor of the states of Transylvania, Count _Apór_ treasurer, Count _Holler_ president of the states (the two last papists) together with Count _Telchi_, _Joannes Sacks_ the _Judex regius Cibiniensis_, with Count _Seau_, and some others. After diner we spent some time with professor _Kaposi_, and at night supped with Count _Seau_.

May xxi.

His Excellency staid this whole day at _Balasfalva_; and we the morning at _Alba Julia_, which was antiently called _Apulum_[119], where we imployed ourselves in viewing some Roman sculptures, and copying the three following inscriptions.