Chapter III: Front Matter (3)

This day having first visited Mr. _Schrever_ (then ill of the plague, of which he died two days after) in a small boat of the countrey, in company with Mr. Goodfellow and Mr. Evans, I made a tour up the Thracian _Bosphorus_. This chanel we may conceive to begin from the point of _Scutari_ on one side, and that of _Tophana_ on the other; from whence in a winding figure, graced on each side with _seraglios_ of the chief courtiers of this empire, and on the marine with almost continued villages, as also two castles in the narrowest part, it extends about eighteen or twenty miles, as far as the antient rocky isles of the _Symplegades_, which seem to open and shut, as one advances to them in the _Bosphorus_[75]. The largest of them is situated on the European shore, and till lately bore an antient Corinthian pillar, to which a vulgar error has given the name of _Pompey’s column_. It was erected not on a regular basis of its own, but upon an antient heathen altar, that now only remains; the shaft and capital of the pillar, which have lately fallen, being yet visible in four pieces among the cliffs of the rock. On the aforesaid remaining altar may be read this inscription in large Roman letters.

DIVO CAESARI AUGVSTO
L. CL. ANNIDIVS
L. F. CLAV. FRONTO[76]

Returning from this pillar we stept on the adjoining shore, to see the large and lofty lantern there erected for the direction of mariners at the entrance of this difficult strait. About four miles from hence, in returning thro the chanel, we go ashore on the European side to visit a famous convent of Greek priests, by the name of _Mauromolos_, seated in the cliff of an hill, and enjoying a beautiful church, adorned with many rich pieces of religious furniture; as books bound in covers of massy silver; an ἁγία πύλη, or _sacred curtain_[77], wrought both richly and artfully in silk and golden figures; and a set of painting not of the vulgar sort, but regular and proportionable, the most curious of which was done in Muscovy. These fathers are exempted from their _harách_, on account of a present of excellent fair cherries, once presented to the _Grand Signior_. Over a fountain, that serves the convent with water, they have this device, not more proper for the place, than ingenious for the contrivance, in making the same words read forwards or backwards:

ΝΙΨΟΝ ΑΝΟΜΗΜΑΤΑ ΜΗ ΜΟΝΑΝ ΟΨΙΝ[78]

I was this day a witness of the strong current flowing towards the _Propontis_ from the _Euxine_ sea, as I had before observed it to force into the _Mediterranean_ from the ocean. Both which are taken notice of by _Lucan_:

_Quaque fretum torrens Maeotidos egerit undas_
_Pontus, et Herculeis aufertur gloria metis,_
_Oceanumque negat solas admittere Gades[79]._

April xxvi.

This day I crossed the water from _Galata_ to visit the antient _Chalcédon_, where I saw the poor Greek church dedicated to _St. Euphemia_[80]; and a little distant from the present village, the place where was held the fourth general council. Returning we row under the shore, to see the _Grand Signior’s_ beautiful _seraglio_ near _Scutari_. When _Chalcédon_ was an eminent city, which is now reduced to a slender village; _Scutari_, which by a contrary event is at present a fair and spatious city, was a poor and ignoble village, tho it then had the name of _Chrysopolis_, as we find by _Zosimus_[81].

April xxviii.

I retired to _Belgrade_, a small Greek village, seated about twelve miles from _Constantinople_, and about five from the _Euxine_ sea; where the English ambassador has a countrey seat. It is pleasantly situated among large woods of oak, beech, chesnut, and other trees, and enjoys an healthy air and water. Here I took the opportunity of riding to visit the famous aqueducts of _Constantinople_, distant from this village about six miles, which were built by _Valentinian_ the first[82], _accurante Clearcho praefecto_, as _Cassiodorus_ says[83]; and afterwards repaired by _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_, who exempted twelve adjacent Greek villages from the customary tribute of this empire, for the care he enjoined them of keeping these aqueducts in repair. The most remarkable of them are three great and lofty fabrics, built over so many valleys betwixt the adjoining hills, of which the longest has many but less arches, and may possibly be the entire work of _Solymán_. The other two have the appearance of a more antient and regular architecture, consisting of two rows of arches one over the other; and those of the second row enclosed by pillars cut thro the middle, so as to render the fabric both passable like a bridge, and useful for the conveyance of water. The more considerable of these two consists only of four large arches, each twenty yards long, and something above twenty high, supported by octangular pillars of about fifty six yards in circumference towards the bottom. The village of _Belgrade_ is likewise honoured with two royal _kiosks_, the one of the _Grand Signior_, the other of the _Validée_; each situated in two delightful recesses of the neighbouring wood, and adorned with natural avenues thro lofty groves of beech, oak, and chesnut. At each of these _kiosks_ the waters of the public aqueduct are gathered into fair and ample cisterns of hewn stone, from whence they pass in arched chanels under ground to the royal city.

May vii.

After a pleasant retirement of ten days at _Belgrade_ I returned to my lodgings at _Galata_, to take the opportunity of seeing the remaining curiosities of _Constantinople_.

May viii.

I walked almost thro the extent of the whole city to visit the famous pillar of _Arcadius_, a lofty and aspiring fabric, of the Doric order, built with a wonderful regularity and exactness of architecture, bearing on the basis, and on the whole shaft from top to bottom, various warlike figures of men in arms, chariots, galleys, and other ornaments, which in a spiral manner encircle the whole pillar; every figure being so well proportioned to the distance, from whence it is seen, that those at the top, the middle, and the bottom, appear to the eye exactly of the same size. Returning from this pillar I passed by the old pillar of _Aurátbasar_, defaced by the several conflagrations of the city, and bound in several places with rings of iron by the care and charge of the emperor _Manuel_, as is witnessed by this inscription on the top.

ΤΟ ΘΕΙΟΝ ΕΡΓΟΝ ΕΝΘΑΔΕ ΦΘΑΡΕΝ ΧΡΟΝΩ
ΚΑΙΝΟΙ ΜΑΝΟΥΗΛ ΕΥϹΕΒΗϹ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΩΡ

From this pillar I was desirous of passing thro _Atmeidan_, that is the _hippodromus_, or _cirque_ above mentioned, to review the _mosque_ of _Sultan Achmét_, and make a stricter observation on the three pillars there erected. Here I was informed, that the brass serpentine pillar was erected by the emperor _Leo_, as a charm against the noisom number of serpents, which in his time infested the city; the same person superstitiously affirming, that since the late defacement of this pillar, by the breaking of the serpents heads, the city was again molested by innumerable noxious serpents. At the foot of the old pillar, formerly covered with brass, I read the remains of that inscription once taken by Sir _George Sandys_, but since his time part of it buried with earth, and part broken away; which is very erroneously printed in his _Travels_[84]. On the basis of the hieroglyphical pillar I observed the carved representation of the pillar it self, together with the figures of men labouring to erect it.

May ix.

By the interest of a Greek, who serves the _bostangí bashá_ as his surgeon, I was admitted in company of Mr. John Philips, an eminent merchant, into the great _seraglio_ of _Constantinople_, where we passed thro two courts, that form the entry of the palace; the first of which has a small arsenal, furnished with arms and ammunition; the second has piazzas on two sides, in which the _janisaries_ are wont to eat, and opens at the upper end into the _diván_. From these two courts we were permitted to walk round the full extent of the garden, on each side of the palace. They are rude and wild places, affording nothing that is entertaining, but that wherewith nature has furnished them, which is an admirable situation rising into convenient ascents, and capable of infinite improvement, if it were happily in the possession of a Christian prince. The whole plat of ground, which they call the gardens of the _seraglio_, is covered with cypress and other trees, thro which are cut shady walks, where _kiosks_ are seen of various sorts; the most eminent and remarkable of which is that called the _Blew kiosk_, fronting the town of _Scutari_. This and the other called the _Alaí kiosk_, fronting the city of _Galata_, are rich and splendid pleasure houses, covered with a gilded cupola, and adorned in their several walls with Indian tiles, and stately chimneypieces of solid brass. Passing thro the extent of the _seraglio_ towards the extreme point, that looks up the Thracian _Bosphorus_, you observe a Corinthian pillar consisting of white marble, of which the ignorant Turks report a fabulous and ridiculous account; but its true original is discovered by this inscription on one plane of the basis:

FORTVNAE REDVCI OB
DEVICTOS GOTHOS[85]

On the opposite plane is likewise this religious device:

+--+--+
|ΙϹ|ΧϹ|
|ΝΙ|ΚΑ|
+--+--+

Near this pillar we were admitted thro a gate, which opens into a green court, and that again into a garden kept in somewhat a regular order. From hence we ascend by a few steps into an apartment of the _Grand Signior_, where are two rich _kiosks_, a fish pond, a paved walk, and an open gallery. Here we were shewn the lodgings, where the unhappy princes of the empire are detained prisoners, as also the dark chambers of the _ichoglans_, and the door that leads into the _harém_ of the _Grand Signior_. There also are shewn two or three instances of the strength and the activity of _Sultan Morát_; as a ponderous round stone, which with one finger he is said to have lifted by a ring fixt therein; likewise five thick and substantial sheilds, which being placed upon one another were peirced thro by a cast of his _jiríd_ still sticking in them; also several silver pellets thrown by him with that violence, as to stick in an iron door. The above mentioned gallery is rich and splendid, adorned with various gilding of flower work, and supported with beautiful serpentine pillars. In the sides of one of the _kiosks_ are three orbicular stones of fine porphyry, the middlemost of which is curiously polished, and thereby serves to reflect the prospect of the _seraglio_ and adjoining city, in the nature of a looking glass. At the further end of the garden of the _seraglio_ are the intire walls of an antient Christian church, and near to that the aviary of the _Grand Signior_, where I observed the hens of _Grand Cairo_, having blue gills and feathers curiously coloured with grey circles, and in the center of each a spot of black.

This day I retired again to _Belgrade_, for the advantage of its healthy air and water, and the entertainment of its shady situation. Hence on the twelfth instant I made a tour towards _Domuzderé_, and the shore of the _Black Sea_, on which we rode for some space of ground, and returned by that called _Ovid’s Tower_, thro a fertile tract of ground, curiously varied with corn, grass, and shady woods.

May xx.

I returned again to my lodgings at _Galata_, and the next day crossed the water in company with Mr. Goodfellow to _Constantinople_, where after a visit to the _mosque_ of _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_, we obtained leave to ascend one of the _minarées_, from which the _muezins_ call the Turks to their _namáz_, being about an hundred and twenty feet high. Here we took a delightful prospect of the whole situation and extent of _Stambol_, as likewise of _Galata_, _Pera_, and _Scutari_, with the neighbouring seas, canals, and land that encloses them. But the peculiar happiness of this day was the employment of about two hours, which we leisurely spent in viewing the stupendous church of _Sophía_[86], now profaned by its conversion into a Turkish _mosque_. It chiefly merits the regard of any curious traveler for the reliques of its rich mosaic work; the variety of pretious marble[87], which adorns it, consisting of serpentine, alabaster, and porphyry; and the architecture of its large and flat tho sublime cupola[88], in which are still the entire figures of _Christ_ and the twelve _Apostles_, and in the windows many inscriptions in mosaic work from the _New Testament_.

May xxiii.

I returned again to _Belgrade_, as well for the opportunity of confirming my health, as for continuing my respects to his Excellency the Lord Paget.

June vi.

I waited on his Excellency from _Belgrade_ to _Pera_, going first to _Boiukderé_ and thence down the _Bosphorus_ by boat.

June x.

I waited on his Excellency, as well to wish him a good journey, as to receive his commands for _Smyrna_.

June xiii.

I returned to the house of my esteemed freind, Mr. Goodfellow, in _Galata_; and the day following took leave of the Dutch ambassador and his family.

June xvi.

I made a visit by boat to the _Seven Towers_, now a prison for persons of quality, since by the fate of war it has fallen into the hands of the Turks, but antiently the _Porta Janicula_ of _Constantinople_. The beautiful remains of this gate are still admirable, tho by the Turks suffered to be almost concealed by a dead wall, and the shade of the neighbouring trees. It is a regular and carved arch of white marble, supported by two beautiful pillars, adorned in the pilasters with a sculpture representing several military affairs, and flanked on each side the pillars with twelve tablets of carved work extremely well performed, which contain several poetical stories. Among the rest is _Hercules_ and the _Nemeaean lion_, the beast prodigious and terrible, but confessing its conqueror by an agreable posture; _Luna_ and _Endymion_; a winged _Pegasus_, managed by some of the _Muses_; a pourtraiture of the known combat of whirlbats; and an imperial figure, crowned by two celestial machines.

Returning by boat along the walls of the city, I observed its crooked figure and posture to the sea; and noted also the several square towers variously interspersed at unequal distances, each bearing an inscription much to the same purport, as may be seen by the following copy, which I took of them in the boat.

On a tower near the _Porta Janicula_:

ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΙΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΩΝϹΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ ΠΙϹΤΩΝ ΕΝ
Κ̅Ω̅ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ

On a tower in that part of the wall, which includes the _seraglio_:

ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΜΕΓΑΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΚΥΡΙΩ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩϹ
ΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ.

Round the same _seraglio_:

ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΧΡΙϹΤΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ

About the same place:

ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΙΧΑΗΛ ΠΙϹΤΩΝ ΕΝ Κ̅Ω̅
ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ.

June xvii.

About midday I saw the ceremonies of the _dervíse_ convent of the order called _Meuleví_ at _Pera_, consisting of their _namáz_, somewhat longer than is ordinary at other times and places. After which followed a sermon, that is, a gallimaufry of dreams and nonsense, pronounced by the prior of the convent, as he sat cross-leg’d on the seat of a two elbowed wooden chair. This was succeeded by their music in a gallery over the door; during which about fourteen _dervíses_ led up a religious dance in the area of their theatre (for such is the figure and contrivance of it) in which they turn round almost in the same place with incredible swiftness, without either weariness or giddiness, for the space of half an hour. By this exercise their brain is so habitually fortified against dizziness, that one of them was able to hand upon the half moon of a _minarée_ belonging to the _Solymanjá_, and from thence to salute the _Grand Signior_ at his palace of _Cushcui_, at the same time firing off a pistol, and drinking a dish of coffee.

About five this evening I took leave of Mr. Goodfellow, and embarked upon a boat manned with seven hands, which I had hired for ten dollars to transport my self, my horse, and two servants from _Galata_ to _Montagnia_, being the space of two leagues. When having a fair wind, which by degrees increased, and exposed me to the fatigue of a nauseous sea sickness, after midnight I entered the two capes, which form the _Sinus Cianus_. In this bay is that famous fountain mentioned by _Virgil_:

_Hylan nautae quo fonte relictum_
_Clamassent; cum littus, Hyla, Hyla, omne sonaret[89]._

June xviii.

By six this morning I landed safe at _Montagnia_, a small Turkish town, which seems to have been the _Apaméa_ of the antients; _Cius_, or _Prusa ad Arganthonium_, being now a little village, that lies farther towards the utmost corner of the bay. Here I hire a guide and horse to carry my self, servants, and baggage to _Prusia_, antiently _Prusa ad Olympum_, where by God’s blessing I arrive safely about midday; and taking up my lodgings in the great silk _kane_, I there determine to repose till to morrow morning.

_Prusia_ is a large and fair city, situate at the foot of _Olympus Mysenus_, a mountain of exceeding hight, and covered with perpetual snow; which from its bowels furnishes the adjacent city with many large and plentiful fountains, and by the same means gives nourishment to the beautiful and flourishing trees, which intermix themselves with the houses of the place. These are chiefly mulberries, which maintain the industrious worm, that produces the white and lovely silk of _Prusia_; which I here saw spun from caldrons of hot water, the several cods yeilding at once three threads upon a wheel, turned by the person who tends the caldron. Besides the several cold streams issuing from _Olympus_, there flows from the same origin a plentiful sulphureous chanel, which is collected into four hot natural baths much frequented, and with marvelous success, as is here generally beleived. The several fabrics of the baths are very stately, of which I shall describe that, which is called the new one, for a specimen of the rest. It consists first of a large oblong room paved with marble, enclosed all round with free stone, and covered at the top with three noble cupolas leaded on the outside. Round the inward walls of the room are _sophás_, about a yard high, and two broad, sufficient for the undressing of three hundred men. In the middle is a round stone cistern, overflowing with cold water, which continually washes the pavement, and serves for other uses of the bagnio. From this room you enter into a second moderately warm, having on the sides oblong troughs of hot water, and in the middle a fountain of cold; the walls, roof, and pavement being all of white polished marble. From hence you are led by the attendants of the bagnio into a third apartment of an orbicular figure, paved, roofed, and walled with richer marble, that is, of more curious veins and various colours. The pavement hereof is sunk into a round cistern about six yards diameter, which is constantly full of hot water to the depth of about six feet, and surrounded with a stone bench for the ease of those, who care not to swim, or walk about the cistern. As the water constantly runs from thence by passages at the bottom of the cistern, so is it continually supplied by three large chanels, which from as many sides of the room yeild a plentiful stream of water, almost scalding at the first touch.

Besides these baths there is not much remarkable in _Prusia_, except what may be collected from the history of the place; as that it has the ruins of a castle, built by one of the _Comneni_, as appears from the following inscription:

ΑΝΗΓΕΡΘΗ ΟΥΤΟϹ Ο ΠΥΡΓΟϹ
ΠΑΡΑ ΤΟΥ ΕΥϹΕΒΕϹΤΑΤΟΥ ΗΜΩΝ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩϹ
ΘΕΟΔΟΡΟΥ ΚΟΜΝΗΝΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΛΑϹΚΑΡΙ
... ΜΗΝΙ ΟΚΤΟΒΡΙΩ

It was made the first capital of the Turkish empire by _Osmán_, or _Ottoman_, the founder of that monarchy. And it has the monument not only of the said _Ottoman_, but likewise of his immediate successors, _Orchán_, _Solymán_, _Amurát_, _Bagazet_, and _Mahomet_ the first.

June xxi.

This morning about eleven a clock I set forward on my journey, in company of a _caraván_ bound to several parts on the road to _Smyrna_. With these I now travel three hours, and then _conáck_ with them upon a convenient plat of grass, on the plains of _Prusia_. In the midway we cross the river _Hippius_ runing thro these plains into the _Sinus Cianus_.

June xxii.

We travel this day to the left of the _Palus Artynia_, which being fed from mount _Olympus_, extends itself the length of many miles, and shews several little islands, in which are one or two compact Greek towns. At length the lake vents itself by the chanel of the river _Rhyndacus_, at which we arrive about six a clock this evening, and passing it at a long wooden bridge, near the ruins of another built of stone, we take up our _conáck_ on the opposite bank, in a village now called _Ulubat_, but antiently _Apollonia ad Rhyndacum_.

June xxiii.

We ride eight hours, and then bait on the banks of a little river, which runs towards those called the _Adrastian plains_. Three hours farther, at the village of _Susegierlíck_ we cross the fair large and sandy chanel of the _Aesépus_, and proceeding still two hours more we at length _conáck_ upon the hills.

June xxiv.

We this day pass a street called the _Irongate_, and in seven hours arrive at the fair capacious _kane_ of _Mandahóra_, where are seven rude porphyry pillars thought to be of _Trojan_ original. Here we repose till towards evening, and then once more crossing the _Aesépus_, which rising in _Ida_ continues its course under the houses of this village, we proceed about an hour, and then lodge in a grassy plat about an hour to the left of _Balihísar_.

June xxv.

Rising now a little after midnight we proceed seven hours, and then resting in the woods till three in the afternoon, we pass by the usual _conáck_ of _Kurugelchíck_, and one hour and an half from thence at length lodge in a pleasant green spot of ground on the mountain _Temnus_.

June xxvi.

By four a clock we proceed, and having passed the _Temnus_, by seven a clock we cross the chanel of the _Caicus_, which here is but small, not being far distant from its fountain head. But an hour farther at _Gelemba_ we again observe it now much enlarged, and runing by the _kane_ and houses of that place, from whence it bends its course on the left hand to _Pergamus_. At this _kane_ we repose half an hour, and afterwards in the plains two or three hours more; but about midday we again remount, and in four hours cross the _Hyllus_, at a strait betwixt two hills; in an hour after which, in the midst of a fruitful and delicious plain, we arrive at _Thyatira_.

June xxvii.

I repose this day at _Thyatira_, which by the Turks is now called _Akhísar_. My design in staying here was to observe the scattered remains of architecture, which are to be seen in many places, together with some inscriptions. The most remarkable of these is one published, but erroneously, by Sir _George Wheler_[90]; which I copied from a stone coffin, on which it is cut.

ΦΑΒΙΟΣ ΖΩΣΙΜΟΣ ΚΑΤΑΣΚΕΥΑΣΑΣ ΣΟΡΟΝ ΕΘΕΤΟ ΕΠΙ ΤΟ-
ΠΟΥ ΚΑΘΑΡΟΥ ΟΝΤΟΣ ΠΡΟ ΤΗΣ ΠΟΛΕΩΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΩΙ ΣΑΜ-
ΒΑΘΕΙΩΙ[91] ΕΝ ΤΩΙ ΧΑΛΔΑΙΟΥ ΠΕΡΙΒΟΛΩΙ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΗΝ ΔΗ-
ΜΟΣΙΑΝ ΟΔΟΝ ΕΑΥΤΩΙ ΕΦ ΩΙ[92] ΤΕΘΗ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΙ ΓΛΥΚΥ-
ΤΑΤΗΙ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΑΥΡΗΛΙΑΙ ΠΟΝΤΙΑΝΗΙ ΜΗΔΕ-
ΝΟΣ ΕΧΟΝΤΟΣ ΕΤΕΡΟΥ ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΝ ΘΕΙΝΑΙ ΤΙΝΑ ΕΙΣ
ΤΗΝ ΣΟΡΟΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΝ ΟΣ ΔΕ ΑΝ ΤΟΛΜΗΣΗ Η ΠΟΙΗΣΗ
ΠΑΡΑ ΤΑΥΤΑ ΔΩΣΕΙ ΜΕΝ ΕΙΣ ΤΗΝ ΠΟΛΙΝ ΘΥΑΤΕΙ-
ΡΗΝΩΝ ΑΡΓΥΡΙΟΥ ΔΗΝΑΡΙΑ ΧΕΙΛΙΑ ΠΕΝΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΕΙΣ
ΔΕ ΤΟ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΟΝ ΤΑΜΕΙΟΝ ΔΗΝΑΡΙΑ ΔΙΣΧΙΛΙΑ ΠΕΝ-
ΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΓΕΙΝΟΜΕΝΟΣ ΥΠΕΥΘΥΝΟΣ ΕΞΩΘΕΝ ΤΩΙ
ΤΗΣ ΤΥΜΒΩΡΥΧΙΑΣ ΝΟΜΩΙ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΕΠΙΓΡΑΦΗΣ
ΕΓΡΑΦΗ ΑΠΛΑ ΔΥΩ ΩΝ ΤΟ ΕΤΕΡΟΝ ΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΑΡ-
ΧΕΙΟΝ ΕΓΕΝΕΤΟ ΕΝ ΤΗΙ ΛΑΜΠΡΟΤΑΤΗΙ ΘΥΑΤΕΙΡΗ-
ΝΩΝ ΠΟΛΕΙ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΩΙ ΚΑΤΙΛΛΙΩΙ ΣΕΒΗΡΩΙ ΜΗΝΟΣ
ΑΥΔΗΝΑΙΟΥ[93] ΤΡΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΕΚΑΤΗΙ ΥΠΟ ΜΗΝΟΦΙΛΟΝ
ΙΟΥΛΙΑΝΟΥ ΔΗΜΟΣΙΟΝ[94]

About five in the evening I begin to move, having now left the _caraván_, and purposing to travel all night towards _Magnesia_. Before it is dark I again ford the _Hyllus_, and after that proceed over those fair plains, in which _Scipio Asiaticus_ first won the empire of Asia for the Romans by the defeat of king _Antiochus_[95], as we find it described by Livy.

June xxviii.

By nine a clock this morning I reach _Magnesia_, where I repose myself the remaining part of the day with the following night. And then mounting by five the next morning, after a refreshment of about three hours I arrive at _Smyrna_ safe, and in good health, by three a clock in the afternoon.

Μόνῳ τῷ Θεῷ τῷ ὁδηγοῦντι δόξα.

An Account of a journey from _Smyrna_ to _Adrianople_, at the end of the year MDCCI, and begining of MDCCII.

February x. _A. D._ 1701.

This day about nine a clock, being a very rainy morning, I began my departure for _Adrianople_ together with Mr. Farington; being favoured with the company of Consul Raye, Signior _Hochepied_, and nine or ten of our nation, as far as _Hadgelar_, where we were detained this evening by the rain.

February xi.

The rain continuing, we still remain at _Hadgelar_, in the house and company of Signior _Laspaul_. Among the sepulchers adjoining to this village, upon a stone pillar, are to be seen the four following imperfect inscriptions, cut at different times.

Β. Η. ΣΕΥ .. ΤΥΧΗΣ ... Π. ΣΕΒΗΡΕΙΝΑ ΣΕΒ.

ΤΗΣ ΑΣΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΙΣ ΝΕΩΚΟΡΩΝ
ΤΩΝ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩΝ ΣΜΥΡΝΑΙΩΝ
ΠΟΛΙΣ ΑΝΕΣΤΗΣΕΝ ΕΠΙ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΟΥ
ΠΟΛΛΙΑΝΟΥ ΓΕΝΤΙΑΝΟΥ[96]

FL. VALENTIANO
ET FL. VALENTI
VICTORR. S. P.

CONSTAN ..........
CONSTANT .........
.. NORR. CAESS. D D
....... VI ....

February xii.

We set forward this morning by six a clock, and about midday journeying to the left of mount _Sipylus_, and the fair city of _Magnesia_, we first cross a small bridge over a river, which feeds the _Hermus_, and about one a clock pass the _Hermus_ itself, on a bridge of an hundred and sixty paces in length. From hence we ride half an hour on the silver banks of that pleasant river, and thence over the plain to _Tartalécui_, where we _conáck_.

February xiii.

We proceed on those fair plains, which lead towards _Thyatira_, and within an hour of the town come to the _Hyllus_ or _Phrygius_, not now passable at its usual ford; we therefore ride along its banks, and crossing near to _Thyatira_ arrive there in six hours from our last _conáck_. This city is seated in a pleasant and fruitful plain, well watered and wooded, and rich in many productions, but particularly that of excellent cottons. About the city I observed a great quantity of misseltoe on pear and almond trees, so thick on some of them, as to form the appearance of a true evergreen, covered with its own leaves and branches. And the like I afterwards observed on an alder, not far from _Sorrícui_. I here took these three Greek inscriptions, which have not, that I remember, been observed by others; and were before omitted by me, when at this place. The first of which is as follows.

ΑΓΑΘΗΙ ΤΥΧΗΙ
ΟΙ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΟΝ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΑ ΤΩΝ ΠΡΩΤΩΝ ΓΥΜΝΑΣΙΩΝ
ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΑΡΧΑΙΟΝ ΤΟΥ ΤΡΙΤΟΥ ΝΕΑΝΙΣΚΙΟΙ[97] ΑΥΡ.
ΘΗΣΕΑ ΝΙΚΗΦΟΡΟΥ ΘΥΑΤΕΙΡΗΝΟΝ ΝΙΚΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΕΝ-
ΔΟΞΩΣ ΠΑΓΚΡΑΤΙΟΝ ΕΝ ΤΩΙ ΥΠΟ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΕΠΙΤΕΛΟΥ-
ΜΕΝΩΙ ΕΠΙΝΕΙΚΩΙ ΣΕΒΗΡΕΙΩΙ ΑΓΩΝΙ ΥΠΟ ΕΠΙΣΤΑΤΗΝ
ΑΥΡ. ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΖΩΣΙΜΟΥ[98]

The second is this:

ΛΙΚΙΝΝΙΟΝ ΡΟΥΦΙΝΟΝ ΣΥΓΚΛΗΤΙΚΟΝ ΥΙΟΝ ΛΙΚΙΝΝΙΟΥ
ΡΟΥΦΙΝΟΥ ΟΙ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΟΝ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΑ ΠΡΩΤΩΝ ΓΥΜΝΑΣΙΩΝ
ΝΕΑΝΙΣΚΟΙ ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΑΡΧΑΙΟΝ ΤΟΥ ΤΡΙΤΟΥ.

The third thus:

ΚΛΑΥΔΙΑ .... ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ ΤΟΝ ΒΩΜΟΝ ΜΟΣΚΙΛΙΑΝΩ
ΤΩ ΤΕΚΝΩ ΜΝΗΜΗΣ ΕΝΕΚΕΝ ΕΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΙΣ ΜΕΤΑΘΗ ΑΥΤΟ
ΥΠΟΚΕΙΣΕΤΑΙ ΤΩ ΦΙΣΚΩ 𐆖. Φ.

To these may be added the following military epitaph.