Chapter I: Introduction

I congratulate Miss Annie S. Peck, the publisher of this book, and those who consult or read it, upon the preparation of a work of this character. Interest in Latin America is now so rapidly growing throughout all the world, and especially in the United States, that a descriptive guide-book of this kind regarding the regions commonly visited by tourists has become an actual need; such a work by Miss Peck is a practical and timely contribution to the literature of the day. There are few persons better qualified to write a book of this character. The remarkable explorations which Miss Peck has undertaken in the most difficult sections of Latin America, and the traveling she has done in all parts of it, not only have provided her with a vast fund of useful information about the countries of South America but give especial authority to what she writes. Her book contains in compact form an amount of definite information concerning the countries considered, which should place it in the forefront of works of this character.

While, of course, it is impossible for the Pan American Union, as an official organization, and myself, as its official head, to endorse in any way a particular book or accept responsibility for the statements and views it contains, it gives me real pleasure, from a personal standpoint, to express the hope that this work of Miss Peck will have a wide circulation and prove of decided help in promoting travel to and through the Latin American countries.

The Pan American Union, which, as readers of this book probably know, is the office of all the American republics—the United States and its twenty sister Latin American countries—organized and maintained by them for the purpose of developing commerce, friendship, better acquaintance, and peace among them all, is doing everything possible and legitimate to persuade the traveling public of the United States and Europe to visit the Latin American countries and become familiar with their progress and development. There is no influence in the world that helps more to advance friendship, comity, and commerce among countries than travel back and forth of their representative men and women. Nearly every person who visits Latin America under the advice of the Pan American Union, upon his or her return, writes a letter expressing appreciation that this opportunity has been afforded of seeing these wonderful countries of the south.

In conclusion, I would observe that if those who may become interested in Latin America through reading Miss Peck’s book desire further information about any or all of these republics, the Pan American Union will always be glad to provide them with such data as it may have for distribution.

JOHN BARRETT,
Director General of the Pan American Union.

Washington, D.C., U.S.A., October, 21, 1913.

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FOR EVERY ONE

To all Americans both of the Northland and of the South this book with due modesty is inscribed, in the hope that by inciting to travel and acquaintance it may promote commercial intercourse, with the resulting ties of mutual benefit and respect: in the hope, too, that the slender cord now feebly entwining the various Republics may soon draw them all into more intimate relations of friendship; at last into a harmonious Sisterhood, in which neither age nor size shall confer superior rights, but mutual confidence based upon the foundations of justice shall insure perpetual peace.

* * * * *

The opportunity is here improved to express my grateful acknowledgment of kindly assistance and attentions of diverse character, received throughout my travels from many of my own countrymen, from Englishmen invariably interested and ready to aid, and from the ever courteous and helpful Latin Americans: officials and private individuals, with members of my own sex. As a complete list of these would be too long I permit myself the mention of those only who are entitled to especial recognition, our Minister to Bolivia, 1910-1913, the Honorable Horace G. Knowles, and the Governments of Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina, without whose prompt and substantial aid this work would have been impossible. That its usefulness may be such as to convey to them a valid return is my earnest aspiration.

The indulgence of critics and of tourists is sought for errors (few, I trust) and deficiencies which may be discovered. These and other faults will have crept in on account of a preparation somewhat hurried that the book might earlier be of service, and from the impossibility of securing on some points exact and adequate information, in spite of diligent investigation and careful scrutiny of facts and figures.

Many items of interest and importance have been omitted lest the book should be too long. The selection of material it is hoped will be suitable to the general reader, though doubtless every one will find topics presented to which he is indifferent and others neglected which appear to him of greater consequence.

Hours have been spent in searching for the best authority as to widely different figures and even as to varying accents and spelling. In the absence of other information a few statements have with some trepidation been copied from authors whose recognized blunders have made their unverified observations appear questionable.

While a different statement made by some other, albeit notable writer cannot be taken as conclusive evidence of error, any just criticism or suggestion presented to the author will be gratefully received and considered with a view to incorporating it in a subsequent edition.

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CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I WHAT THE TOUR IS—HOW AND WHEN TO 1
GO—WHAT IT COSTS

II THE VOYAGE TO PANAMA 6

III THE ISTHMUS—THE CANAL—COLON 12

IV COLON TO PANAMA—PANAMA CITY 23

V STEAMSHIP LINES ON THE WEST 36
COAST—ECUADOR

VI ON THE WAY TO CALLAO 43

VII SALAVERRY, CHAN CHAN, CHIMBOTE, THE 50
HUAILAS VALLEY

VIII CALLAO TO LIMA—HISTORY 59

IX LIMA, THE CITY OF THE KINGS 66

X THE SUBURBS OF LIMA—THE OROYA 86
RAILWAY—CERRO DE PASCO

XI THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY OF PERU, 99
AREQUIPA

XII THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY—CUZCO 109

XIII BOLIVIA—CUZCO TO LA PAZ 123

XIV THE CITY OF LA PAZ 133

XV OTHER REGIONS OF BOLIVIA AND ROUTES 142
TO THE SEA

XVI ALONG THE CHILIAN COAST, ARICA TO 154
VALPARAISO

XVII VALPARAISO 163

XVIII SANTIAGO 170

XIX SANTIAGO—CONTINUED 179

XX SOUTHERN CHILE—SANTIAGO TO BUENOS 191
AIRES BY SEA

XXI ACROSS THE ANDES TO MENDOZA 198

XXII ARGENTINA—ACROSS THE PLAINS TO 213
BUENOS AIRES

XXIII BUENOS AIRES 222

XXIV BUENOS AIRES—CONTINUED 238

XXV A SIDE TRIP TO IGUASSU FALLS AND TO 257
PARAGUAY, INCLUDING IMPORTANT
ARGENTINE CITIES

XXVI URUGUAY 272

XXVII BRAZIL—ALONG THE COAST TO SANTOS 286

XXVIII SANTOS AND SÃO PAULO 295

XXIX RIO DE JANEIRO—BAY AND CITY 306

XXX RIO DE JANEIRO—CONTINUED 321

XXXI RIO DE JANEIRO—CONCLUDED 330

XXXII NORTHERN BRAZIL—HOMEWARD 341

XXXIII SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 360

INDEX 391

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ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

NORTH PEAK OF MT. HUASCARÁN, 21,812 _Frontispiece_
FEET

MT. HUASCARÁN FROM AN ALTITUDE OF 56
10,000 FEET

LLANGANUCO GORGE 56

CALLAO HARBOR; RECEIVING SECRETARY 66
ROOT

PLAZA DE ARMAS, CATHEDRAL 66

PORTALES AND MUNICIPAL BUILDING 70

CALLE JUNÍN, INAUGURATION OF 70
PRESIDENT LEGUIA

PASEO COLÓN AND EXPOSITION PALACE 78

IN THE MUSEUM, EXPOSITION PALACE 78

STATUE OF BOLÍVAR, PLAZA DE LA 82
INQUISICIÓN

PERUVIAN MUMMY, UNIVERSITY OF SAN 82
MARCOS

ON THE OROYA RAILWAY 94

PLAZA, CERRO DE PASCO 96

NEAR THE SOURCE OF THE AMAZON 96
(MARAÑON)

ON THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY OF PERU 102

RELIGIOUS PROCESSION, EL MISTI AT 102
THE RIGHT

CATHEDRAL, PLAZA MATRÍZ 116

ANCIENT WALL 116

BALSAS, LAKE TITICACA 128

LA PAZ FROM THE HILLS 128

CATHEDRAL AND GOVERNMENT PALACE 134

HALL OF CONGRESS, MONUMENT TO 134
MURILLO

STREET NEAR THE MARKET 138

IN THE CEMETERY OF LA PAZ 138

MONOLITHIC GATEWAY, TIAHUANACO 142

INDIANS AT FESTIVAL, TIAHUANACO 142

MT. ILLAMPU, 21,750 FEET, FROM THE 146
PLATEAU, 13,000 FEET

SORATA TOWN 146

INDIANS TRANSPORTING FREIGHT 150

PLAZA AND GOVERNMENT PALACE, ORURO 150

VALPARAISO HARBOR 164

MONUMENT TO ARTURO PRAT, PLAZA 164
INDEPENDENCIA

AVENIDA BRAZIL, WITH BRITISH 168
MONUMENT

RESIDENCE, VIÑA DEL MAR 168

NEW HALL OF CONGRESS, LIBRARY AT 174
THE LEFT

PALACE OF FINE ARTS 180

ENTRANCE TO PARQUE SANTA LUCIA 180

PALACIO DE LA MONEDA 186

CEMETERY IN ROSE TIME 186

TIERRA DEL FUEGO 196

ENTRANCE TO ANDINE TUNNEL, CHILIAN 196
SIDE

AVENIDA DE MAYO 224

THE CAPITOL PLAZA, BUENOS AIRES 230

PALERMO PARK 230

JOCKEY CLUB STAND, HIPPODROME 236

CENTENNIAL EXPOSITION, RURAL 236
SOCIETY

BOTANICAL GARDEN 240

ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN, HOUSE OF ZEBUS 240

PATIO IN NEW HALL OF JUSTICE 246

COLÓN THEATRE 246

TOMB, RECOLETA CEMETERY 248

RECOLETA PARK 248

MERCADO DE FRUTOS AND RIACHUELO 250

BUILDING OF PUBLIC SCHOOL SARMIENTO 250

PASEO COLÓN, GRAIN ELEVATORS IN THE 252
DISTANCE

DARSENA NORD AND MARINE SHOPS 252

ON THE RIVER TIGRE 254

LEGISLATIVE BUILDING, LA PLATA 254

UNIVERSITY BUILDING, LA PLATA 256

MUSEUM, LA PLATA 256

A FRACTION OF THE IGUASSÚ FALLS 260

JUDICIARY BUILDING, ROSARIO 264

RESIDENCE ON AN ARGENTINE ESTANCIA 264

GOVERNMENT PALACE, ASUNCIÓN 268

NEW LEGISLATIVE PALACE, MONTEVIDEO 276

SOLIS THEATRE 280

GOVERNMENT PALACE 280

PORT OF SANTOS 296

LUZ STATION, SÃO PAULO 300

MUNICIPAL THEATRE 300

YPIRANGA MUSEUM 302

HOTEL OF IMMIGRANTS, SÃO PAULO 302

COFFEE FAZENDA 304

COFFEE TREE 304

AVENIDA DE RIO BRANCO 314

BOULEVARD BEIRA MAR FROM PENSÃO 314
SUISSA

NATIONAL LIBRARY 322

SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS 322

AVENIDA DO MANQUE 326

RESIDENCE OF THE PRESIDENT 332

BOTANICAL GARDEN 332

CORCOVADO FROM THE BOULEVARD BEIRA 336
MAR

THROUGH THE CLOUDS, FROM CORCOVADO 336

UNITED STATES EMBASSY, PETROPOLIS 340

STREET WITH RIVER 340

PRAÇA DE FREI CAETANO BRANDÃO, PARÁ 354

BAHIA 354

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

Miss Peck’s photograph of Mt. Huascarán,
page 56, is used by permission of Harper
& Brothers (copyright 1906), and through
the courtesy of the Pan American Union
eight illustrations were selected from Pan
American Bulletin.

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THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR

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