Chapter XXIII: Buenos Aires

HOTELS. Plaza, E. P., 10 _pesos_ and up; Palace, a little more
moderate; others A. P., Grand, 9-20; Royal, 9-20; Majestic, 12
up; Metropole; Splendid; Caviezel’s New Hotel; Phœnix; Albion.

_Cabs._ First class, 15 blocks, 1 _peso_, next 15 blocks, 50
_ctvs._; second class, first course 60 _ctvs._, second 40
_ctvs._ By the hour, first class, 2 _pesos_, then 80 _ctvs._
each half hour; second class, 1.50 first hour, .60 each half
hour. Automobiles, higher.

_Money._ Argentine _peso_, 44 cents; double the Chilian _peso_.

Guide-book to the Argentine Republic by Albert B. Martinez,
valuable; in Spanish and French, perhaps now in English.

CHIEF POINTS OF INTEREST

The Plaza and the Avenida de Mayo, the Government Palace,
Capitol, Palace of Justice, Plaza San Martin, the Museum of Art,
Zoological and Botanical Gardens, Palermo Park, Hippodrome,
Colon Theater, Parque Lezama and National Historical Museum,
Recoleta Cemetery, the Docks, _Frigorificos_, _Mercado de
Frutos_.

Tourists coming from Mendoza will arrive at the Retiro Station.
Outside are numerous carriages to convey the traveler and small
luggage to his hotel. The price of these carriages is astonishingly
cheap to a New Yorker, 1 _peso_, 44 cents, for a ride of 15 squares,
and nearly all of the hotels are within this distance. From the
docks the ride may be longer, according to where landing is made.
Further, there are carriages of the second class, which seem equally
good. For these the fee is 60 _centavos_. The only difference that I
could learn was that the first-class coachman wears a uniform. The
number of horses, one or two, makes no difference. The automobiles
are somewhat more expensive. The drivers have a habit, as elsewhere,
especially at the station, of demanding more than their fee,
particularly on Sunday; so it may be as well to say nothing, take
the first carriage offered and pay what is due with a small tip and
no remarks, and something additional for baggage. Trunks should be
arranged for with an agent of the express company, Expreso
Villalonga, either at the station, or after reaching your hotel, if
that is not already decided upon. The hotel porter will attend to it
if you hand him your checks.

Unlike the cities previously visited, as might be expected from its
size, a wide choice of accommodations is here offered. Hotels galore
and lodging houses as well are to be found, though perhaps not a
room at the desired hostelry unless engaged in advance: not always
even then, if reports are true of certain establishments. There are
all kinds of prices except very cheap, for this is quite another
world from the West Coast, and except as to carriages, prices
compare with those of New York.

The first choice of the ultra fashionable and wealthy is likely to
be the _Hotel Plaza_, unless a new one promised to be still finer
should already be completed. At the Plaza, barely two blocks from
the station, a room may be had on either the American or the
European plan. The lowest price for the latter is ten _pesos_
($4.40) a day—and from that _far_ up, doubtless 30 or 40 _pesos_ or
more for suites with bath. Meals are in proportion. The location is
good, on the handsome Plaza San Martin, and very near the river, the
American Legation is close by—but it is quite a distance, 11 blocks,
from the Avenida de Mayo, the principal avenue, and many will prefer
a hotel in the heart of the city on this handsome and busy
thoroughfare, or one within a few blocks of it. The other hotels are
somewhat lower priced and by many regarded as more comfortable and
agreeable. The Plaza, under the management of the world famed Ritz
Carlton people, is naturally the grand affair that one would expect,
the pompous, uniformed British attendants easily leading one within
to fancy himself in London.

The _Palace Hotel_, before the erection of the Plaza, regarded as
the first in the city, is a large edifice, property of Nicolas
Mihanovich, the noted steamboat man. This fine structure, two blocks
from the Plaza de Mayo, fronts on three streets, the 25th of May,
Cangallo, and the Paseo de Julio, many rooms thus looking upon the
Paseo, a fine boulevard and parkway, and out over the docks to the
river. On this side there are five stories, with an observation
tower at the corner 150 feet high for the use of the Mihanovich
Company, and containing a powerful electric light. The offices of
the company are on the ground floor of the building. The hotel has
an imposing entrance with a monumental stairway (also elevators)
leading to the main floor. Here is a hall of the Louis XIV style,
and a luxurious dining-room of the Empire fashion with white and
gold ceiling. All floors are heated and there is a telephone in
every room or suite, conveniences and elegance of all kinds. Above
there is a roof garden (a favorite resort on summer evenings)
adorned with exotic plants, and a summer dining-room which affords
charming views.

Other hotels, older and equally popular, are the _Grand_ and the
_Royal_, comfortable, even luxurious, much patronized by
English-speaking folk. The Grand, built in 1900, on Florida and
Rivadavia, is in the very heart of the city and by some called
noisy; the Royal at the corner of Corrientes and Esmeralda is a few
blocks distant. At these the price for room and board with bath
privilege is from 9 to 12 or 14 _pesos_ a day; for room with morning
coffee only, 5 to 8 _pesos_ a day.

AVENIDA DE MAYO
]

On the Avenida, which means always the Avenida de Mayo, are the
Hotels _Splendid_, _Metropole_, _Paris_, _Majestic_, _Caviezel’s New
Hotel_, all of the first rank with pension prices from 10 or 12
_pesos_ up. Also on the Avenue near the Plaza de Mayo is the Hotel
_Nuevo_, said when built to have been the acme of elegance. The
_Phoenix_, San Martin 780, more quiet and less pretentious than some
of the others, is much patronized by English. One preferring lower
prices will find good board and rooms at the _Pension Caviezel_ for
from 7 to 9 or more _pesos_ daily (elevator), an excellent location
on the Avenida, Rivadavia and Esmeralda (painfully neat, some one
said, which is hardly a fault), a Swiss proprietor; another pension
of the same name is at the next corner, with prices a little higher.
At the Hotel _Albion_ on the Avenue rooms without board may be
obtained, cheaper but less attractive, and furnished rooms elsewhere
at 2-4 _pesos_ a day, according to style and location.

Comfortably settled in a good hotel, what is first to be done? I
should say, after morning coffee take a stroll around the center of
the city, down the Avenue, turning to the left on Florida with a
glance at the shop windows, down Cangallo to Reconquista and the
Plaza at the right. If time is short begin at once sight-seeing
there, the center of the old and new city, a historic site for
nearly four centuries. Called by Garay, _Plaza Grande_ or _Mayor_,
containing 8 acres or more, it is now _Plaza de Mayo_. The center,
regarded as the Altar of the Country, has been occupied by a modest
monument, an obelisk called the Pyramid of May, commemorating the
Revolution of 1810. For this, excavation was made in April, 1811.
This will now be replaced by a great and worthy monument on the same
spot to the same event, voted by the centenary commission to the
competing artists, Gaetano Moretti and Luis Brizzolara. The splendid
marble monument, having a base 150 feet square, will be a trifle
taller, the base supporting a colossal obelisk 115 feet high, upon
which will stand a group of statuary, the apotheosis of the
Argentine flag: a figure representing the _New Nation_ waving the
sacred banner, preceded by Progress crushing down Ignorance and
Prejudice, and acclaimed by Revolution, Justice, and the People.
Other statues and reliefs will be used in decoration. An interesting
innovation will be a large chamber within the monument to be used as
a museum and to contain as a first relic the actual Pyramid of May,
the first memento of the glorious dawn of liberty. This monument is
to be finished and in position in 1916.

Of other monuments already decorating the Plaza, one erected in 1906
faces the Avenue, a fine group of marble portraying a figure, the
_City of Buenos Aires_, being crowned by Progress; a child, the
Future, observing the act. Towards the other end of the Plaza, the
east, is an equestrian statue of _General Manuel Belgrano_, one of
the first Council of Government, appointed by the Corporation of the
City, May 25, 1810; he was afterwards a commander of Argentine
troops, gaining victories at Tucumán and Salta, in 1812 and ‘13,
later suffering defeat in Bolivia, after which he resigned the
command to San Martin. The rest of the Plaza is occupied by gardens,
walks, and fountains. Occasionally there is music.

At the southwest corner of the Plaza is the ancient _Cabildo_ where
met, May 22, 1810, on the upper floor, a popular assembly which
declared the authority of the Viceroy incompatible with public
tranquillity. May 25 the Cabildo appointed a _Junta_ or Council of
Government with Don Cornelio Saavedra as President. The Viceroy
having already withdrawn to avoid bloodshed, the Council took the
oath the same afternoon; Saavedra addressed the people from a
balcony with an appeal for order and harmony. Thus the revolution
triumphed without bloodshed, and from here spread to other sections,
where long struggle was necessary; to Argentina, the success in all
the countries south of Ecuador was largely due.

The most imposing structure on the Plaza is the_ Government Palace_
on the east. On this spot in 1595 the construction of a fort was
begun; but it was 1718-1720 before a considerable fortress was
erected, whose walls remained till 1853. They were then demolished
for a custom house, which in 1894 was destroyed to make room for the
present palace. This great brick edifice, 400 feet long and 250
deep, with two wings of slightly different form, constructed at
different periods, contains offices of the President of the Republic
and of the various Ministers, of the Interior, of Foreign Relations
and Worship, of Finance, of Justice and Public Instruction, of
Agriculture, of Public Works (_Hacienda_), of War and Marine. In the
building are several libraries, the most important that of the
Ministry of Foreign Relations (State Department), where in iron
cases are the treaties with foreign nations since 1811, some of
these, real works of art, superbly engrossed on parchment with
enormous wax seals. The entrance on the north side gives access to
two large and elegant salons where receptions and banquets are given
by the President, his official residence occupying this end of the
building. The banquet salon, richly furnished in Louis XV style,
contains a central chandelier, a notable work of art made in the
country by Azaretto. There is also a fine marble figure representing
the Argentine Republic, and there are busts of the various
Presidents. Within the building are several patios and pleasant
reception rooms. Sentinels abound, but the doors are open and on
business days at the usual hours the building is accessible to the
public. On feast days, if necessary, permits to enter may be
obtained from the Superintendent of the Palace.

On the north side of the Plaza, coming from the Palace, one first
reaches the _Chamber of Commerce_, in 1885 established in its
present edifice, though inaugurated as a _Bolsa do Comercio_ in 1854
with 118 members. It has now above 4000, and is a very important
establishment. Operations in 1909 amounted to a value of 328 million
_pesos_. The same year the Clearing House account for banks was 4½
billion _pesos_.

In the same block at the corner of Reconquista is the _Bank of the
Argentine Nation_, the most powerful institution in the Republic.
Founded in 1902 with a debt of 50 million _pesos_ in bills emitted
as its capital, thanks to a rigid organic law, excellent
administration, and the honesty of its directors, it has become a
great financial power. In October, 1908, the capital was increased
by $17,800,000 gold. As a Bank of the State, no dividends are made,
the annual profit of fifty per cent being converted into gold
reserve and added to the capital. January 1, 1910, the capital was
113 million _pesos_, the reserve 39 millions gold. The bank in 1910
had 121 branches in the provinces and 8 agencies, mostly in their
own buildings, making easy the commercial transactions for cattle
and agriculture, in contrast to our own difficulties, due to the
silly prejudice against a Central Bank, so serviceable in all other
countries. It performs all the operations of other banks, these in
1909 amounting to 645 million _pesos_.

At the west end of the north side is the _Cathedral_, on the spot
selected by Garay for the church in 1580, when a simple structure
with mud walls and thatched roof served the purpose. An edifice with
arches in the present form was begun in 1701, but the façade in
imitation of the Madeleine in Paris was built in the time of
Rivadavia by the architect Catelin. The great semi-spherical dome,
covered on the outside with blue and white squares in the Spanish
style, is a contrast to the other roofs. The interior has a central
nave, two aisles and a transept, well proportioned except for the
great thickness of the pillars. The side chapels are not of especial
importance save the third on the right, the sepulcher of the great
_San Martin_, liberator of Chile and Peru, a patriot whose purity of
motive, possibly his ability, equaled that of Washington, though he
was far less happy in the contemporary appreciation of his services;
not until after his death receiving his merited honors. The
octagonal chapel is effectively lighted from a small dome above.
Four marble plaques bear the names Lima, Chacabuco, San Lorenzo, and
Maipu, reminding of his glorious deeds. In the center a bronze
sarcophagus containing the ashes of the hero has several pediments
upon a broad marble base which bears also four marble blocks. On
three of these stand marble statues, in front, that of Liberty, at
the sides, Labor, and Commerce. The block in the rear carries
laurels and palms only, with a bas relief representing the battle of
Maipu. In front are the arms of Argentina, at the sides those of
Peru and Chile. On the right stands a bust of the great patriot, the
whole forming a worthy, artistic, and most impressive monument.

On the west side of the Plaza at the corner of the Avenida, with
entrance on the latter, is the _Municipal Palace_ or City Hall,
where the Executive Department of the City Government has been
located since 1892, the Deliberative Council meeting at Peru 272.
The Intendente or Mayor is appointed for two years by the President
with the approval of the Senate, and may be re-appointed. The
Deliberative Council of 22 is also named by the President, as the
elections formerly held gave poor results. On the other side of the
Avenue are the Civil Courts.

The Avenida de Mayo, in front of the Capitol, extends from the Plaza
de Mayo a little more than a mile to the Plaza, about 100 feet wide,
paved with asphalt, lined with trees, and with a row of posts for
electric lights in the center. Cut through the block between
Rivadavia, originally the main street, and Victoria, the next street
south, at a cost of ten million _pesos_, it was opened for traffic
July 9, 1894. It is considered by some the finest street on this
hemisphere, others prefer the Avenida Central in Rio, while all who
admire skyscrapers will insist that it is not to be compared to
Fifth Avenue. Adjoining the City Hall, is seen on the right the
splendid edifice erected by Dr. José C. Paz for _La Prensa_. As the
finest newspaper building in the world for the sole use of a single
publication, it should be visited by every traveler, though only
certain parts are open for inspection. There are five stories above
ground and two below, the sub-basement containing the electric
fixtures and the paper storage room. On the next floor is the
machinery, presses, etc., with a room at the back 120 feet long and
25 deep for the distribution of papers. On the ground floor on the
Avenida are the bureaus of administration, as for advertising, etc.,
and the museum; while fronting on Rivadavia are rooms for free
consultation with physicians and lawyers. One flight up, a long one,
for ceilings are high, but there is a good elevator, are the
handsome rooms of the chief editors. A fine salon with luxurious
appointments, Turkish rugs, furniture upholstered in leather, sofas
and armchairs, and a heavy carved table, is the reception room,
where gentlemanly attendants in uniform are at your service,—a
contrast indeed to the dingy hallways where people are kept, by
often pert youths, from entering the sacred though bare and noisy
quarters of the editorial staff of some of our great and wealthy
journals. On the other side of the large patio is a handsomely
decorated hall seating 500, with furniture of red and gold, used
only for entertainments for the employees. On the next floor are
various editorial rooms, on the fourth luxurious apartments for the
entertainment of distinguished guests from abroad. At the top are
rooms for photography, composing, etc. On the turret is a statue
holding a powerful electric light, the rays of which are visible to
a great distance. The editor of this great newspaper, which like its
building in some respects, for instance in the amount of its
telegraphic despatches, is superior to any in the United States, is
Dr. Adolfo E. Davila, who has held the office since 1877. To him the
paper owes a large share of its progress which is deemed worthy of
its palatial setting.

A little farther up is the great store of Gath & Chaves, one of the
best in the city, and at 633 the fine building of the Progreso or
Progress Club. Opposite is the Diario building, which in 1911 had
just been afflicted with a fire. The Diario is an important, perhaps
the leading afternoon paper. Along the way are many hotels and other
business structures. Some of the buildings, like the Prensa, are
almost covered with electric light bulbs, probably remaining from
the Centennial display in 1910, when lighted obviously producing a
brilliant spectacle.

At the upper end of this splendid avenue, beyond a large Plaza, is
the CAPITOL, strongly reminiscent of the one in Washington, but none
the worse for that. The plans were by the late Victor Meano; the
cost was $9,000,000. It may be mentioned in passing that the Plaza
in front was constructed for the celebration of the Centenary in the
short space of 90 days; four solid blocks of buildings were torn
down, ground was filled in, leveled, and grassed, walks were laid,
trees, shrubs, and flowers planted, fountains with colored waters,
obelisks, candelabra, and statues were erected, and all done at a
cost of $5,000,000, in time to receive their guests in 1910. And
_we_ call South Americans slow! Monuments to the Constituent
Assembly of 1813, the Congress of 1816, and to General Mitre are to
be added.

THE CAPITOL PLAZA, BUENOS AIRES
]

PALERMO PARK
]

The central façade of the Capitol, setting a trifle back from the
line of the projecting wings, is adorned with a fine portico and
approached by a stately staircase having on each side an equestrian
statue. The central dome is a remarkable work, the pillars
supporting it covering 300 square meters. To sustain the weight of
30,000 tons, the foundations were laid 30 feet deep, and an inverted
dome of stone was fixed. No one should fail to visit the top of the
great dome, which provides a splendid view over the city and the
broad river; or the magnificently furnished reception halls and
legislative chambers. The Senate Chamber, arranged for but 30
members, is a small room though provided with two galleries. The
larger Chamber of Deputies has three rows of galleries, the first
for the diplomatic corps with an especial reservation for ladies,
some of whom come to hear the debates. The acoustics are said to be
poor and the heating inadequate. There are conference rooms, a
library, rooms for secretaries, etc. The Houses regularly meet from
May 1 to the end of September, but the sessions are usually
prolonged until January by Executive Decree. The Deputies meet
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at three, the Senate on the alternate
days. The Chamber of Deputies, semi-circular in form, has 130 seats
besides eight for the Ministers, here admitted to their
deliberations. There is a platform for the President and two
secretaries. Behind the Presidential chair is a portrait of Valentin
Alsina.

Below the platform is a table for stenographers, two of whom write a
report of the proceedings, published the day following. Members
speak from their places receiving polite attention, especially
noticeable in comparison with the practice in Assemblies of older
nations. There is no division of seats for political parties, nor
special garb for President or Ministers. Each Deputy has a desk with
writing material. For each 33,000 people, and for an additional half
as many more, one Deputy is elected for four years, receiving a
salary of 18,000 _pesos_. Every two years one half of the House is
renewed. The Senate Chamber also has seats for the Ministers. The
Vice President, according to the Constitution, is the presiding
officer. Strangers of distinction desiring to visit the sessions of
Congress may obtain from the Secretary cards of admission to the
galleries.

The characteristic of the city first obvious is its extreme
neatness, in strong contrast to our chief cities; then the narrow
streets of the business section and the absence of skyscrapers, each
of which will seem to Americans generally an evidence of
backwardness and provincialism. The former certainly is a great
defect, inherited from colonial times, which the officials of recent
days have been and still are endeavoring to remedy. As the widening
of all the streets at once was obviously impossible, to relieve the
congestion of traffic and to beautify the city, the Avenida de Mayo
was constructed. Soon two diagonals, wonderfully diminishing the
present difficulty, will be cut from the north- and southwest
corners of the Plaza de Mayo through the busiest parts of the city.
Although the streets in the center are only 33 feet wide, since the
buildings have mostly but two or three stories, they do not lack air
and light, as in so many of the streets of New York; the height of
all buildings being limited according to the width of the street on
which it stands, an excellent and necessary rule. All of these
narrow central streets are one way thoroughfares, both for cars and
other vehicles. Natty policemen stand, not at a few, but at dozens
of busy corners, regulating traffic. Yet in spite of their best
efforts blocks are frequent, sometimes delaying cars for ten or
fifteen minutes. It may be mentioned that the city has, in
proportion to the inhabitants, twice as many policemen as New York,
generally courteous and obliging. In order to help a little, the
corners of many buildings and sidewalks have been chopped off in
accordance with a law promulgated some years ago, though long not
strictly enforced. Many of these old streets will be widened in
time, as new buildings must be set 10 or 12 feet farther back, a
temporary disfigurement, ultimately of great advantage. West of the
Capitol all streets are wider. New ones must have a breadth of at
least 60 feet. In the newer sections are many beautiful broad
avenues, the Santa Fé and Alvear in some respects surpassing the
Avenida. There is an excellent service of electric cars, one writer
says the best on this hemisphere, already supplemented by a subway
now being constructed from the Plaza de Mayo to Plaza 11 de
Setembro. This one completed, others will be promptly begun; not as
in New York ten years after they should have been finished. For in
Buenos Aires, packing like sardines is not permitted, as will be
discovered, perhaps with indignation, when a car marked _completo_
passes without a pause, and one has to wait several minutes for a
second or a third. Within, all are comfortable, the seats, each for
two, facing the front with an aisle between, where no one is allowed
to stand; on the broad rear platform six only are permitted. With
carriages so cheap, anyone in a hurry can easily afford to patronize
them. The cars with large figures in front, as in Chile, a fashion
which might well be introduced in our cities, are easily
distinguished; the hotel porters and the policemen being usually
able to tell you two or three numbers of the several cars which may
take you to your destination, and the points at which these are to
be found. Also a little red guide book, _Guia Peuser_, purchasable
for 10 _centavos_, will give all necessary information as to
railways and electric cars, carriage tariffs, etc.

An afternoon drive may be taken in auto, car, or carriage. Setting
out in good season, one may first traverse a few streets in the
center of the city, the fashionable Florida to Plaza San Martin,
returning by Reconquista to the Plaza de Mayo, cross down to Parque
9th of July below the government Palace, then go by Paseo de Julio
and Avenue Alvear to Parque 3rd of February, commonly called
Palermo. After a drive in the park return may be made by Santa Fé
and Callao to the Capitol building and upper end of the Avenue, or
by other streets past the Recoleta, the Aguas Corrientes, etc.

The calle _Florida_ is _par excellence_ the fashionable promenade of
the city. Though narrow like the others and but ten blocks long, it
is distinguished from the rest by having no car tracks and is lined
by many of the most fashionable shops, beginning with Gath & Chaves
extending from the Avenue to Rivadavia; though to be accurate, this
is on Peru instead of Florida, the old Rivadavia street being the
dividing line where the names change and the numbering each way
begins, instead of the Avenue as would seem more natural. Besides
many of the best shops, there are on Florida many fine residences,
among these one between B. Mitre and Cangallo belonging to the
Guerrero family; one on the left in the Louis XV style between
Corrientes and Lavalle, the home of Juan Peña; opposite is that of
Juan Cobo. Beyond Lavalle on the right is the magnificent home of
the _Jockey Club_, soon to be abandoned for a larger and still more
costly establishment. This Club, noted as probably the richest in
the world, with an entrance fee of £300, nearly $1500, yet having a
considerable waiting list, receives so large an income from the
receipts at the races that it hardly knows what to do with it. Its
present edifice has a noticeable façade, a fine entrance hall and
staircase, on the first landing a famous Diana sculptured by
Falguières. Corinthian columns, ornamentation of onyx, ivory, and
azul are part of the decoration. A fine banquet hall, various
dining-rooms, luxurious drawing and reading rooms, rooms for cards,
billiards, fencing, baths, etc., and a few to which ladies are
admitted with a member for afternoon tea, unite to make this the
equal of any Clubhouse in the world. Beautiful paintings and other
expensive luxuries, like tapestries and carving, contribute to the
elegance of the establishment. On moving from their present quarters
to the much larger and more splendid structure now being erected
near the Plaza San Martin, the Club will present this edifice to the
Government to be occupied by the Department of State.

Beyond on the same side between Viamonte and Cordoba, a large
building with arcades, covered by a glass roof, occupies the entire
square. This, called the Bon Marché, is used mainly as an office
building and contains some Bureaus of various Ministries. Formerly
the National Museum and the Academy of Fine Arts were here located,
but the Museum or Gallery now occupies a fine building on Plaza San
Martin, with the Academy adjoining. The Florida ends at this Plaza,
one of the handsomest of the city, surrounded by many splendid
edifices, adorned with large trees, flowers, shrubbery; and at the
upper end an equestrian _Statue of San Martin_. The Art Museum is at
the east end of the north side; farther west are stately residences,
as also on the south side. Here, between Florida and Maipu is the
office of the _United States Legation_, easily distinguishable by
the United States Coat of arms above the door, should the flag not
be floating from the projecting staff. Happily in the South American
countries visited, the legations are all suitably housed, though it
is said that at least one Minister of ours to Argentina, paid more
for his house rent in Buenos Aires than his entire salary. It is
obviously not a position to be sought at present by a man with only
his talents to recommend him. Returning by Reconquista one would
pass many fine business blocks, including banks.

Driving past the Government Palace and turning down to the left, we
come to the _Parque 9th of July_ in the rear of the palace, from
which we proceed again north on the way to Palermo. Buenos Aires
boasts of 74 parks and plazas altogether, with an extent of 10
million square meters. The 9th of July is modeled after the Champs
Élysées, having a broad avenue with gardens of the Renaissance style
on each side. It begins at the south with a half circle in which a
statue, probably Rivadavia, was to be placed. In the middle is a
circle with an artistic fountain by the French sculptor Moreau, and
at the north end, opposite Cangallo, is a pretty fountain by an
Argentine artist, Lola Mora. Along the way are cafés, restaurants,
and concert halls.

Proceeding along the _Paseo de Julio_, with its line of shrubs and
flowers, one may continue by the fine _Avenue Alvear_ through the
most fashionable quarter of the city. The Avenue, bordered with
flowering trees and palms, is lined with palatial mansions, in the
midst of beautiful grounds and gardens. At the fashionable hour this
avenue is filled with vehicles, rented victorias, the stately
carriages of the residents, and many automobiles, which although
numerous have not yet seemed to lessen the multitude of carriages.

Almost too soon the Park is reached, its formal title, the _3rd of
February_, recalling the defeat of the tyrant Rosas in 1852 by
General Urquiza with an army of soldiers from Argentina, Uruguay,
and Brazil, Rosas then fleeing to an English ship and to permanent
exile. He formerly resided on the site of the Round Point. This park
covering 3,677,000 square meters corresponds to Central Park, New
York, or Hyde Park, London, though it is more at one side, being on
the border of La Plata River. The many beautiful, shaded avenues
are, on the _dies de modo_ or days of fashion, thronged with
carriages before or after dinner according to the season, when
thousands of people may be seen enjoying the spectacle as well as
the fresh air, the ladies displaying magnificent toilets for the
pleasure of all beholders.

The drive should be continued to the lake, where the charming
pagoda-like _Restaurant of the Lake_ will be admired. At certain
times and seasons, it is quite the thing to enjoy here at the price
of three _pesos_, a cup of afternoon tea, etc., to the accompaniment
of a good orchestra. At a kiosk on the round point of the lake, _La
Granja Blanca_ offers for refreshment sterilized milk and other
dairy products. Not far distant is the _Restaurant Palermo_, to
which persons wishing to dine there are gratuitously conveyed from
the center of the city. Excellent entertainment with good orchestral
music is said to be provided at a moderate price for this city.

Within the area of the park are included enclosures for various
sports. Close to the lake is the ground of the Cricket Club with
chiefly English members. Enclosed by the avenues Pampa, Ombu,
Alsina, and Palomar, covering a space of about 125 acres, are the
_Golf Links of the Argentine Club_, with a course of 5300 yards. A
_Gymnastic_ and _Fencing Club_ possesses a fine court for their
exercises, where much frequented contests are often held, as also in
the bicycle track. The northwest end of the Park is occupied by a
Rifle Range, covering 10,000 square meters. An imposing façade is
flanked by two towers 60 feet high, from which a magnificent
panorama may be witnessed. Three large gateways with glazed iron
doors open into a vestibule 80 feet long, from which two doorways
lead to the shooting galleries, 300 feet long and 20 wide; 38
targets all double and movable give ample opportunity for shooting,
eight at a distance of 150 feet for revolver practice, twenty at
1200, and ten at 1600 feet, for rifle shooting. Shields of iron and
banks of earth give protection against poor shots. Admission is free
and any one by paying for the cartridges will be supplied with arms
and allowed to practice to his heart’s content. Contests both
national and international are frequently organized.

Near the rifle range is the great hippodrome. Beyond it, outside the
park, is a field of 30 acres belonging to the _Argentine Sporting
Association_. This contains a track of 3500 feet for trotting races
with sulkies, and one of 3200 feet for obstacle races with hurdles,
fences, and ditches of water. The space in the center of the course
is used for polo and football. Clubs from Uruguay and South Africa
have participated in games held here by the Argentine Football
League.

The glimpse now gained of the _Argentine Hippodrome_ will incite to
a visit on one of the gala days, Thursday and Sunday, when many will
enjoy a display superior to anything of the sort previously
witnessed. Nothing in the United States approaches it. While some
Americans asserted that this was the finest Racing Ground in the
world, a gentleman of Buenos Aires stated that it hardly equaled
Longchamps. However, the _buildings_ here are superior. The
spectators are accommodated in a row of great white stands, that for
the especial use of the members of the Jockey Club and their
families being largely of white marble and capped with a graceful
roofing. Behind the upper rows of seats is a spacious promenade with
tables for afternoon tea, and farther back large and well appointed
club rooms.

JOCKEY CLUB STAND, HIPPODROME
]

CENTENNIAL EXPOSITION, RURAL SOCIETY
]

Worthy of attention is the long series of other white buildings,
elaborate and spacious, for all required purposes, also the space
enclosed by the track: not the usual bare field but a plat decorated
with flower beds, greenery, and rivulets crossed by little white
bridges. There are three tracks one inside another, the outermost a
mile and three-quarters in length. The grounds outside the track are
embellished with flowers, lawns, and trees, the eucalyptus, pines,
and palms; an excellent band discourses music; while a throng of
gaily dressed people, the men (at least the Argentines), in
faultless attire, the ladies in elegant Parisian costumes with a
liberal display of jewelry, contribute to the brilliant spectacle.

The season is a long one, continuing from March 4 to December 30,
with 56 regular functions. The races are of a high order (the riders
generally Argentine), the most important being for the Jockey Club
Prize, Sept. 8, the Cup of Honor, Sept. 16, the National Prize, Oct.
7, and the International, Oct. 28. These are the true Society
events, the dates varying slightly with the year. On these occasions
the throng is so great that movement is impossible. In 1905 the
winner of the National Prize received $27,000 and the sale of
tickets reached $346,000. In the year 1906, the betting at two
_pesos_ a ticket was equal to $20,000,000. Persons of distinction or
with influential friends may be able to procure an invitation to the
official stand. For seven _pesos_, tickets may be purchased
admitting to everything _except_ that, or for two _pesos_ to the old
stand and four to the new.

To attend the races one may go by train, every five minutes, from
Retiro Station, by tram (15 _ctvs._) marked Carreres from Parque de
Julio, by carriage at two _pesos_ an hour, or with a livery carriage
for 15 _pesos_ the afternoon.

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