Chapter XVIII: Santiago

HOTELS. Oddó, A. P., 12 to 40 _pesos_; Grand, A. P., 12 to 18
_pesos_; Francia, and Royal, about the same; others at lower
prices.

_Chief Points of Interest._ Plaza de Armas; Cathedral and other
buildings around; the Capitol; the Moneda; the Alameda; Parque
Cousiño; _most important_, Santa Lucia Park and the Cemetery;
the Art Gallery.

=Santiago=, the capital and largest city of Chile, the third or
fourth in size in South America, considered by some travelers to
have the most beautiful location of any capital in the world except
Rio de Janeiro, is situated on the river Mapocho in the long central
valley of Chile, at an elevation of 2000 feet. Founded by the
doughty warrior and Spanish invader, friend and almost counterpart
of Francisco Pizarro, Pedro de Valdivia, it was by him planned and
laid out in 1541 after he had first built a fort on Santa Lucia
hill, an excellent site for the purpose, recalling the ancient Greek
Acropolis or some of the mediæval strongholds. On account of the too
great dispersion of the invaders, the settlement for some years had
a hard struggle for existence, but during its century of
independence it has grown rapidly. Its population, now approaching
400,000, is ten times as great as when independence was declared in
1810.

The site is indisputably one of remarkable beauty and picturesque
charm, without any interference with the convenience of a large
city. The hills in and on the edge of the city, rising like small
islands abruptly from the plain, do not preclude long level streets,
yet form a peculiar and admirable embellishment, while east and
west, the mountains of the Great Cordillera and of the Coast Range,
which a few miles away rise as lofty ramparts to the ethereal blue,
are an ever sublime and noble contrast to the verdant smiling plain.

The climate of Santiago, which at 33° S. has about the same latitude
as Charleston and San Diego N., is considered excellent; though the
three winter months, in dwellings destitute of heating apparatus,
seem rather cool indoors to residents of the United States. In the
summer, though not extremely hot, it is very dusty, so that wealthy
residents at this season escape to Viña del Mar or other seashore
resorts, to the beautiful lake region, to the springs and baths
among the mountains, or even to the _fjords_ in the distant south.
An amusing _mot_ of a German is related by one who did not seem to
appreciate it. “The climate of Santiago is good but it is very
unhealthy.” And both statements have been quite true, the latter
inexcusably so, resulting from the fact that ordinary sanitary
measures have been neglected. The medical congress in 1911 was held
in the midst of an epidemic of smallpox. There has been a woeful
lack of sewerage. But happily the officials have at last come to
realize the importance of sanitation, an adequate system of sewerage
is now installed, and doubtless other deficiencies will soon be
remedied.

From the fine large railway station on the outskirts of the city, a
carriage or tram car may be taken to one of the hotels near the
center, a mile or more distant. To secure rooms at the _Oddó_, for
many years regarded as the leading hotel of Santiago, it is often
necessary to engage rooms in advance, as both main building and
annexes are generally crowded. The Oddó, near the Plaza de Armas, is
on one of the principal streets, the Ahumada, 327, the annexes on
another at right angles with this, the Huérfanos, 976 and 1012, all
three in the heart of the city. The _Grand Hotel_, preferred by
some, is close by, Huérfanos 1164. Other hotels approximating these
are the _Hotel Francia_, finely located on the south side of the
Plaza, and the _Royal_. Prices at the first two are likely to be 15
or 18 _pesos_ a day, with morning coffee, one _peso_, as an extra.
Other hotels of more modest price and accommodations are the Fornos,
Brinck, Frances, and Imperial on the Alameda, the Milán, Estado 130,
the Biarritz, and near the station the Meloossi.

At the Oddó Hotel, a surprising and pleasant custom in 1911 was that
morning and evening the newspapers, _El Mercurio_ and _Las Ultimas
Noticias_, were thrust under the door of my room, the first in time
to enjoy with my morning coffee. Whether this was by the courtesy of
the hotel proprietor or the newspaper management (both papers having
the same publishers) I am unable to state. Rather expecting to find
them charged on my bill, I was agreeably disappointed that they were
not. To the tourist coming down the West Coast the newspapers of
Chile are a surprise. Those of Peru and Bolivia though often with
able editorials are small, and contain but a modicum of foreign
news, especially of the United States; and the little there is from
our own country is largely gossip. But in Chile, as on the East
Coast, it is different. The _Mercurio_ is a newspaper of world-wide
reputation and of advanced age, exceeded by few in the United
States. Originally founded in Valparaiso in 1827, a Santiago edition
was started in 1900, the two papers now being published with the
same editorials, cables, and general news, though differing in local
matters. The proprietor is Mr. Augustín Edwards, a member of a
wealthy banking house and a large owner and president of the
Compañia Sud-Americana de Vapores. The buildings in which they are
housed, and the _contents_ of these papers are superior to most of
those in larger cities of the United States. Besides good quarters
for editors, reporters, and other employees, there are dining,
reception, and assembly rooms, bed and bath rooms, and other
features not found in our establishments. The editors are
cultivated, well informed gentlemen, whose well written editorials
on the chief topics of the day are read and become subjects of daily
conversation among men of the upper class. More news in regard to
foreign countries is printed than is usual in our metropolitan
dailies. Distinguished strangers are interviewed, social life
receives attention, commercial matters, sport, science, and
literature all have their place. _Las Ultimas Noticias_, an evening
paper with the same publishers, is of lighter character. Besides
other good though less known dailies, Santiago has illustrated
weeklies, the _Zigzag_, and _Succesos_, containing a record in
pictures of the week’s happenings, cartoons and photographs of local
and of world-wide interest. These are in compact magazine form of
slightly less size and thickness than our monthlies.

Sight-seeing in Santiago naturally begins with the _Plaza_, the
center of which is beautified by palm, orange, and fir trees, grass,
fountains, and flower beds, among which are broad walks and benches.
From the usual band stand Sunday, Thursday, and Saturday evenings
concerts of good classical and operatic music are given, in summer
from eight to ten p.m., in winter from six to seven. In the center
of the Plaza is a statue by a famous Italian sculptor, Fagazarro,
which represents Liberty breaking the chains of (Spanish) Slavery.
The four crocodiles beneath with their mouths open indicate that
this was originally intended for a fountain.

Around the Plaza are buildings of importance; on the west side, the
_Cathedral_, originally constructed of stone on the site which
Valdivia appointed for the first church to be erected in Chile. If
the outside is not remarkable the interior is vast and imposing. On
each side of the nave are large square pillars with images of Saints
and Apostles. In the usual side chapels are various paintings by old
masters and other objects of interest; a reclining life-size figure
of San Francisco de Xavier, carved from the trunk of a pear tree, is
considered of high artistic merit. This work was found in the
monastery of the Jesuits when that Order was expelled from Chile in
1776. Another chapel on the same side, that of Santo Sacramento,
contains a monstrance and altar of beautifully wrought silver more
than two hundred years old, and also an antique, large swinging
silver lamp. The choir stalls in the chancel are as usual of carved
wood, also the throne of the Archbishop. In the sacristy is a large
oil painting of The Last Supper, of the old Spanish school, and a
crystal chandelier which hung in a room where the first Congress
assembled, now the National Library. In the Cathedral are buried the
three archbishops, the first, Señor Vicuña Larrain, consecrated in
1841. The tomb of the second is noteworthy, elaborately carved of
Carrara marble, with fluted columns and trailing vines, and the
reclining figure of the archbishop in his stately robes. In front
crouches a bronze lion. The stained glass windows deserve attention.
The particularly fine organ is said to be equal in tone to that in
St. Paul’s, London. It came here by accident, being on its way to
Australia in a ship which was wrecked in the Straits of Magellan.
Among the salvage was the organ which, purchased at a bargain, was
brought to Santiago. The Cathedral should be visited at the earliest
opportunity, as much of the time it is closed. Also it is to be
observed that there is a strict rule here, rigidly enforced, against
wearing hats into the churches. Unless a lady does not mind removing
hers, it is well to devote a morning to the churches, wearing a lace
scarf or veil over the head and thus having no bother. Next to the
Cathedral is the Palace of the Archbishop.

On the north side of the Plaza at the corner next to the Cathedral
is the _Post Office_, a modern well equipped structure, the
telegraph office, and the _Palace of the Provincial Governor_. On
the east side is the _Portal McClure_, back of which are many shops,
and the _Valparaiso Restaurant_, said to be good. The _German Club_
is above the restaurant. Under the _portal_ are many venders, as
also on the south side of the Plaza under the _Portal Fernandez
Concha_, where especially are fruit and flower stalls: beautiful
roses, jasmine, heliotrope, etc., grapes, figs, paltas, chirimoias
and other fruits, according to the season.

Santiago is a city generally pleasing to tourists, even delightful,
as one traveler asserts, who calls it the best place in South
America for residence the whole year around and the only one
attractive from a scenic, climatic and social point of view. This
very critical writer who seems to have a special “grouch” against
Rio de Janeiro, after seeing Lima revises his opinion to a degree,
then declaring that only Buenos Aires, Santiago, and Lima appear
desirable places to live in and of the three he rather prefers Lima.
_Per contra_, another great traveler who stayed in Lima not long
enough really to see it, from his superficial view thought it much
over-rated, this showing, with a possible difference in taste, the
error of a too hasty judgment.

But not to make undue comparisons, Santiago is a charming city, much
larger, obviously, and more modern and European than cosy and
courtly Lima, or strange and remote La Paz. Its attractions will
surprise many and all will be loath to leave.

NEW HALL OF CONGRESS, LIBRARY AT THE LEFT
]

It has a fine system of electric cars with a device which in our
cities might be adopted to very great advantage. The cars of the
various routes, in addition to the names of streets or destinations
which they bear, are all numbered, with figures at the top large
enough to be visible for a block or two. On the calle Ahumada you
will see cars numbered 15, 17, 20, 24, etc. Should you wish to go to
the Park, you may take No. 19 on Huérfanos. The hotel people or any
resident will tell you what cars you may take and where, for any
given point, or you will find a complete list in Scott’s Guide Book.

After seeing the Plaza, one may take No. 19 there for Parque
Cousiño, or a cab or automobile for a drive about the city. In 1911
the paving on many streets was so rough that the cars were preferred
by many; yet one conversant with the city could for the most part
keep to smooth roadways and visit nearly all sections.

The business quarter of the city is chiefly between the Plaza and
the Alameda, extending also to the west. All of these streets are
rather narrow with a single car track on one side, the cars as in
Lima going by one route and returning by another to the starting
point. In this section are many excellent shops of all kinds, the
hotels, banks, and the government buildings. Of the last the
_Capitol_ is naturally the finest, occupying a whole square a little
west of the Cathedral. On two sides of this large handsome structure
are beautifully kept gardens, with magnolias, heliotrope, and other
flowers. In the garden on the east front is a _beautiful marble
madonna_ in an attitude of mourning or prayer, with four kneeling
angels at her feet. An inscription records that this is a memorial
to the victims of the fire, December 8, 1863, witness of the undying
love and grief of the people ten years later. The church of the
Jesuits, then consumed with 2000 victims, formerly stood on this
spot.

Of the four entrances, this on the east is to the _Cámara de
Diputados_ above, that on the west to the _Cámara de Senadores_.
Both Chambers are like small theaters with four rows of seats raised
one above another, each with a small table and writing material in
front. There is a high carved dais for the President. A dome of
colored glass forms the roof. In the Senatorial Chamber is a
painting by Valenzuela Llanos representing the first Congress, July
4, 1811, held in the National Library near by. The building has wide
marble staircases, rooms for the President, for secretaries, some
designed for discussion and conversation; also a large handsome
_Congress Hall_ where the President reads his message at the same
time to both Houses, and to the Diplomats. To the two galleries of
the hall, friends are admitted by ticket for the opening of
Congress, an impressive and ceremonious occasion. This building is
heated by steam pipes, a wonderful innovation, making it comfortable
even to Americans.

The official residence of the President is in the _Palacio de la
Moneda_ which contains also his offices and those of the Ministers
of the Interior, Finance, and Foreign Relations, as well as the
quarters of the Mint. This building, between the streets Morande and
Teatinos, faces the _Plaza de la Moneda_, which is ornamented with
fountains and flower beds, and a statue of an able Minister, Don
Diego Portales, noted for his uprightness. The Palacio with its two
large patios occupies an entire square. By a curious mistake plans
designed for a Government House in Mexico City were sent here, and
so pleased the Chilians that they decided to use them. Opposite the
Palace on the north side of the Plaza is the _Ministry of War and
Marine_; on the west side is the _British Legation_. The _United
States Legation_ is well located on the Alameda. On the east side of
the Palace on Morande street, facing the entrance to the Mint is the
_Ministry of Public Works_. On the Plaza Moneda band concerts occur
Tuesdays and Fridays at the same hours as those on the other Plaza.

The most notable street in the city is the _Avenida de las
Delicias_, commonly called the _Alameda_, a beautiful park-like
promenade 600 feet wide, extending four miles from beyond the hill
park, Santa Lucia, to the Quinta Normal and Central Railway Station.
Here formerly was the river bed of the Mapocho, now farther to the
north. The transformation was due to General O’Higgins. The central
parkway has four rows of trees, oaks, elms, acacias; little canals
of running water and many monuments of soldiers, statesmen, and
scientists of Chile. Next to the parkway on each side are electric
car tracks, and beyond, broad boulevards for carriages, bordered by
wide sidewalks and many handsome residences. Near the calle Ahumada
stands a monument to the brothers, Miguel Luis and Gregorio Victor
Amunátegui, the elder, a patriot of marked distinction in civil life
who served as Minister under several administrations. A remarkable
speaker among people distinguished for their oratory, he died in
1888, greatly mourned.

Proceeding down the Avenue one passes a bust of Abate Molina, a
noted naturalist and author of the eighteenth century. A Natural
History of the Country of Chile was his chief work. There follows a
bust of José Miguel Infante, a great philanthropist who was one of
the foremost in the struggle for independence.

Next is the most striking of the memorials in the Alameda, a bronze
statue of General Bernardo O’Higgins on horseback, represented as on
his famous retreat from Rancagua. Bernardo, born in Chillan, Chile,
and educated in England, was the son of an Irishman Ambrose
O’Higgins who after living some time in Spain settled in Chile,
where he was made Governor in 1778. Bernardo entering the army in
1813 became commander, and as previously related took part in most
of the revolutionary struggles, later becoming Supreme Dictator. In
spite of an excellent administration, after a few years he was
requested to resign, which he promptly and patriotically did, then
withdrawing to Peru. Some years later, influenced by President
Bulnes, the Chilians tardily recalled the disinterested patriot and
were preparing to receive him with due honor when, as about to set
out on his return, in 1845 he died. In 1868 his remains were brought
back by a Commission of the Government and interred in the General
Cemetery.

A little farther, on the left, stands a life-size figure of Carrera,
José Miguel: the most noted of three brothers, ardent patriots in
the struggle for independence, but of misdirected zeal; all three
executed in Mendoza by the Argentines, José, the last, without a
trial, Sept. 4, 1821. The bodies of the three were by order of
Congress brought in 1828 to Santiago and buried in the Compañia
Church.

Some distance beyond is the monument of another general and
dictator, Don Ramon Freire, also distinguished in the War of
Independence and called by O’Higgins, the bravest of the brave.
Later engaging in civil war and being defeated in the battle of
Lircai in 1830, he too went to Peru, but returned before his death
in 1853.

The next monument, between calles San Martin and Manuel Rodríguez,
is to the great hero who is honored in every city, General San
Martin, sometimes called the Hannibal of the Andes. Though receiving
scant honor in his later life, after his death in 1850 his memory
was cherished. This bronze equestrian statue, erected by public
subscription in 1863, represents the hero holding a flag which is
surmounted by a small figure of Liberty.

Beyond this point, the Alameda is still wider, with flower beds and
shrubs beautifying the central promenade. On the right is a statue
to the grandson of an Irishman, Don Benjamin Vicuña Mackenna, a
distinguished historian who initiated many important works for the
improvement of the city: the enclosing with stone embankment the
Mapocho River, the adornment of Santa Lucia, and the idea of
encircling the city by a belt of trees to prevent straggling and
undue extension. His death occurred in 1889.

Between the streets Ejercito and Almirante is a statue unusual if
not unique in character, being erected by the citizens of Santiago
in honor of the city of Buenos Aires. The last monument is an
obelisk to the memory of four writers of the Revolutionary period.

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