Chapter XXIX: Rio De Janeiro—bay and City

Nearly all tourists, whether from the north or south, will arrive at
Rio by water. Leaving Santos in the late afternoon, on a fairly
swift steamer, one is liable, unless an early riser, to find the
ship at anchor in the harbor when he comes on deck in the morning.
But if never at other times eager to see the sun rise, or impatient
to behold beauties which are permanent in character, let every one
who has the smallest appreciation of glorious scenery be awake to
enjoy the entrance into the harbor of Rio, which to many will be the
culminating joy of the whole delightful journey. With the good
fortune to approach at daybreak under propitious skies this
magnificent harbor, unrivaled upon the globe, one will rejoice in a
vision of splendor surpassing his highest conceptions of beauty,
forever to be treasured among his choicest memories. One who is
loath to lose his early morning nap may fancy that to view the
spectacle towards sunset as one sails away homeward will answer just
as well; but such is not the case. It is the morning light on the
triple range of hills behind the city, which lies west of the
entrance to the bay, that enhances the ever charming scene to a
spectacle of unparalleled loveliness.

From a distance, if heaven send no veil of mist, will be seen on the
landward side a row of incomparable titans guarding the city;
islands also appear: on the right, a large flat rock, Ilha Raza,
bears a lighthouse with double electric lights, red and blue, and if
one is coming from the north, the Itaypu Point is rounded with the
pretty little Father and Mother Islands near; approaching from
Santos these appear farther away at the right. The lofty hills or
mountains at the left attract the most attention. In the distant
blue or purple, a gray bald head called Gavea is noticeable, a
famous landmark of the harbor, in the profile of which some fancy a
resemblance to Washington. While still outside the harbor we see
other summits, the less known and less sharp peak of Andarahy, more
distant, Tijuca and the Organ Mts., and nearer, at the right of
Gavea, the world famed _Corcovado Needle_, with the city at its
foot, or perhaps we should say head, since the point of the needle,
the smaller end, is quite obviously above. Whatever else in Rio be
neglected, the Corcovado must be known and visited. Other cities
have boulevards, if less beautiful, fine buildings and parks; but
there is one Corcovado in all the world. Still approaching the
narrow harbor entrance we have glimpses of the city close to the
portal, and notice that its suburbs even stretch to the ocean and
along splendid beaches quite to the foot of Gavea; while on the
opposite shore also are many dwellings. Long before, we have admired
the celebrated _Pão do Assucar_ (loaf of sugar), a striking and
enormous conical rock over 1300 feet high, standing forth boldly
into the channel entrance, which it guards upon the left, while
opposite on the right a rough rock promontory, together with the
Assucar, forms a splendid gateway.

Not merely rock protection has Rio but in these days of jealous
strife she must needs possess grim fortresses also; on the right
Imbuhy and Santa Cruz, on the left São João and Mallet. The
multitude of peaks and heights around the city a Brazilian writer
speaks of as “a lively guard produced by the contortions of a
cataclysm.” To him everything seems dancing. In truth when the
heavenly tints of sunrise are added to the wondrous shapes and hues
of ordinary day, the picture has an unearthly beauty which no tongue
or pen can describe.

As we pass the Assucar close at hand, we perceive that while the
other rock faces are smooth, bare, and practically perpendicular,
this side is rough and shows a bit of green, no doubt the slope
where once the ascent was made, so the story goes, by a hardy
Englishman who planted on the summit a British flag. A great hue and
cry followed this daring act. A reward was offered to any one who
would fetch the banner down. The bribe was vain, till at length the
culprit, detected, himself removed the offending colors from the
staff which long remained above.

Just beyond the Assucar, on the curving shore, we see a part of the
fashionable residence district. On the edge of the first deep bay, a
large building devoted to the Ministry of Agriculture may be
distinguished, and close by, the Benj. Constant Institute and the
National Hospital for the Insane. On the eastern shore of the bay is
Jurujuba, the hospital for epidemic diseases, the pretty beach of
Icarahy, then Nictheroy, a pleasant town, capital of the State of
Rio; for the _City_ of Rio de Janeiro is a Federated Capital like
Washington.

This wonderful bay, opening towards the south, contains an
extraordinary number of fascinating little ones of graceful outline,
with which acquaintance should be made later. Attention is now
directed to the wooded slopes and rock cliffs of the serried peaks
and mountain ranges, to the smiling city, to the blue waters thickly
sprinkled with ships, and dotted with islands. The bay has the name
_Guanabara_, as well as the more familiar one, Rio de Janeiro; the
former an Indian name, arm of the sea, now more frequently applied
to the inner and larger portion of the gulf; the latter given by
mistake when it was first visited January 1, 1502, by Gonzalo
Coelho, who without sufficient exploration, supposing it to be the
estuary of a great river, called it Rio de Janeiro, River of
January. From this the people later were called _Fluminenses_ or
River Folk.

In 1531 the French took possession of the bay, to be driven out
soon after by Alfonso de Sousa who erected a small fort. The
French returning in 1555 under the command of Villegaignon
effected an entrance to the bay, fortified an island and
established a colony largely of Huguenots who maintained very
friendly relations with the Indians; but in 1560, Mem de Sá, the
Governor-General of Brazil in Pernambuco, which was earlier
settled, established a fort on the peninsula in front of the
Sugar Loaf, São João, and captured the island stronghold of the
French, who, retreating to the mainland, there remained with the
support of the Indians. In 1565 Estacio de Sá, nephew of Mem,
arrived with reinforcements. After much fighting, concluded by a
fierce battle between the Morros (hills) da Gloria and da Viuva,
when the French and Indians were routed, the site of Rio fell
into the possession of the Portuguese. On the death of Estacio
from a wound received in the last battle, Mem de Sá founded a
city which he called São Sebastião. This he left in charge of
his nephew Correia de Sá on the Morro do Castello.

Once more, in 1710, the French returned. They entered the town,
but in the streets were assaulted so fiercely that they
capitulated. After their commander Du Clerc had been
mysteriously assassinated, another French fleet arriving
defeated the Portuguese; but after taking possession of the city
later withdrew on receiving a heavy indemnity.

In 1762 or ’63 Rio was made the Capital of Brazil and the
residence of the Viceroy in the place of Bahia; partly through
the efforts of Gomes Freire de Andrade, Count of Bobadella.
During his administration a notable work was achieved, the
construction of the great aqueduct of Santa Theresa, by which
water was brought from the Carioca River to the center of the
city. It crossed a part of the town on a double archway, which
now bears a tramway. Other improvements followed, including the
draining of the great marshes, in the section near the present
Mangue Canal. By the close of the eighteenth century Rio was not
only the chief city of Brazil but the largest and most important
of South America. Not so favorably located as to back country as
some others, especially São Paulo, its fine harbor gave it
commercial importance, greatly increased by the discovery of
gold and precious stones in the State of Minas, as by this port
most of the adventurers entered, thence following a long Indian
trail.

When the Royal family arrived from Portugal in 1808 the city,
the largest in South America, had forty-six streets, nineteen
open squares, many churches, and the usual public buildings. Its
growth, though continuous, has been hampered until the last
decade by the unhealthfulness of the city, especially the
scourge of yellow fever, also by wars, extravagance, and other
troubles. With the reorganization of the finances of the country
and the establishing of its credit during the Presidency of Dr.
Campos Salles 1898-1902, the regeneration of the city under the
later Presidents was made possible and the expenditure of
$100,000,000 for improvements in the Federal District within the
last ten years. On the most charming site imaginable a new and
splendid city has been created which, still in the process of
transformation, soon will even better compare with its uniquely
beautiful surroundings.

To one entering the bay, which is nearly 100 miles in circumference,
its great size is not apparent, as the large inner sea is cut off by
points and islands in such a way that the shape and magnitude of the
entire gulf is undisclosed. Its configuration as a whole is
remarkably like that of the country, roughly triangular with the
apex at the south. Among the numerous islands, three close to the
shore may be particularly noticed: the Island Cobras with a fort
where political prisoners have been confined; the Fiscal Island upon
which is a pretty Gothic structure, headquarters of the Custom House
inspectors, hence the name; and Villegaignon, named for its first
settler, also bearing a fortress.

Your ship may sail past the greater part of the city to the new and
splendid docks where you may step ashore at your ease, or pause at a
common anchorage in front of the main business section of the city,
where you have the advantage of landing at the Caes dos Mineiros
close to the Custom House. All about are ships of every size and as
usual of almost every nationality except our own. Once indeed I saw
here the Stars and Stripes, floating above the deck of a schooner
from Maine, on its annual visit to bring ice and apples from that
cooler clime. Yachts and launches, pretty and plain, gasoline and
rowboats flit about, among ships of larger size, at anchor or
sailing, two of these probably the great Brazilian warships, the
Minas, and São Paulo, a few years ago the scene of serious
unpleasantness due to a marine insurrection.

The city, stretching for miles along the curving shore, presents a
most attractive sight. With corresponding depth its size would be
immense, but its width is barred, as effectively as is New York’s by
its two rivers, by the high steep range which leaves small space
between its foot and the sea; indeed, it thrusts forward several
sharp projections quite into the water, and chains of modest hills
over which the dwellings climb. Thus the city is subdivided into
many sections, to which one may proceed only in a roundabout manner.
Straggling in a charming way over the level patches of ground and
part way up the lower slopes of some parts of the lofty rearward
rampart, it affords room for a population now practically a million,
with plenty of space for more. The second city in the Southern
Hemisphere, the fifth in all America, though older than any in the
United States, its modern growth and development have been brief and
rapid.

But without more ado we must hasten ashore and have a closer look at
the beauties spread before us. If at the docks, a few steps out,
through the fine warehouses or around them, bring one to a broad
splendid avenue where passing cars will in twenty minutes bear its
occupants to the center of the city, and to the Alfandega or Custom
House. Also carriages may be in waiting, a trifle dearer than in
Buenos Aires, but with modest fees as compared with New York. From
the anchorage, one must take a boat to the steps of the Caes dos
Mineiros, where men and boys wait to conduct you to the Alfandega
for the examination of baggage. This may be a tedious operation
which a judicious tip is liable to accelerate. As the office is
closed from 11 to 1, it is important to be early on shore, else you
may be compelled to return in the afternoon for your heavy baggage,
or even to wait until the next day. Officials and underlings are
usually polite, but here often slow.

HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS

HOTELS. The _Avenida_, Avenida Rio Branco; _Estrangeiros_, Praça
J. de Alencar; _International_, Sylvestre; _America_, Cattete;
_France_, Praça 15 de Novembro; _Allen’s_, Rua Humaytá; _Tijuca_
(Tijuca); _Grande_, Lapa; _Globo_, Primeiro do Março; _Pensão
Suissa_, Largo da Gloria.

_Restaurants._ _Frankiskaner_, Avenida Rio Branco, 152; _Heim_,
Assemblea, 119; _Londres_, Assemblea, 115; _Paris_, Uruguayana,
41; and others.

_United States_ Consulate and Embassy: Avenida, 117. British
Consulate: Rua General Cámara 2.

_Churches._ British, Rua Evaristo da Viega; American Methodist,
Rua Conde de Baependy.—Y. M. C. A. Building, Rua da Quitanda 47.

_Money._ A milreis is 33 cents; 100 reis 3⅓ cents; a conto is
1000 milreis, written 1000$.

_Carriages._ Four wheels, for two, first hour, 6$; second hour,
3$; two wheels, for one, 4$, first hour; 2$, second hour.

_Taxis._ (For one or two persons), first hour 8$; second, 4$.
Course about a mile 1.$400, for each quarter mile after, 200
reis.

_Postage._ Two hundred reis to the United States or Europe.

Language spoken, Portuguese; also often French. Spanish
generally understood.

CHIEF POINTS OF INTEREST

Avenida do Rio Branco, the National Library, the Fine Arts
Museum, the Cathedral, and the Candelaria Church, the Praças 15
of November, and Republica, the Passeio Publico, the Beira Mar,
the Botanical Garden, the Pão de Assucar, and—CORCOVADO.

It is a great advantage to have selected one’s hotel in advance and
to have rooms engaged, as the three leading establishments are a
long way apart.

The _carregadores_ who have numbers on their hats may usually be
relied upon to bring in time your baggage to its destination. Some
haggling over the price is usual, as large fees are demanded; not
too large perhaps for those who carry them on foot, but more than an
ordinary express company would ask for the same distance. The
_carregadores_ carry suit cases and other small packages, several of
them, on their heads, at least to the cars, where they must pay
their fare. Also it must be said that baggage is not allowed in
electrics of the first class (I did once smuggle a suit case)
nor—_make a note of this_—is any man allowed without a coat, however
hot the weather. Even on the street a _gentleman_ under no
circumstances is expected to carry his coat over his arm. One
American who did so was politely accosted by a Brazilian who said,
“Man, coat put on!” in the best English he could muster. Two milreis
would be charged for two or three pieces of hand baggage to the
Avenida Hotel and four or five for a trunk, which would be pushed in
a hand-cart; double to the Estrangeiros, less to the Suissa. For the
International Hotel, the Express Company must be employed, but with
that there may be considerable delay. Each hotel has its own
especial merit, which to some minds would outweigh all others and
render possible a decision without personal observation; many will
prefer to spy out the land for themselves. It has been said that
there is no really first-class hotel in Rio, but a Ritz Carlton now
being constructed on the Avenida with accommodations for 1200
visitors, will be opened in 1914. As hotels are liable to be full,
it is wise to telephone before going to look at rooms.

First may be mentioned the _Hotel Avenida_, American Plan $5 up, not
because it is the best, but as being in the center of things, right
on the main business street, the new Avenida Rio Branco. Many lines
of electric cars start from beneath its portico and nearly all the
others pass within one or two blocks. Naturally it is noisy but
persons accustomed to our city streets will hardly mind. This hotel,
having a restaurant with all night service and music every evening,
is the largest in Brazil. Many English-speaking tourists, however,
prefer one of the other two. The _Hotel dos Estrangeiros_, the
Strangers’, is a large establishment facing the Praça José de
Alencar, a charming ride of 20 minutes from the Hotel Avenida in the
direction of the Assucar, mostly along the boulevard by the sea
called the Beira Mar. The hotel is not far, about two blocks, from
the water, which may be visible from the upper windows in the rear;
in front several lines of cars diverge in various directions. The
table is no more than fair, though perhaps as good as any; the
price, 12 to 15 or more milreis daily being sufficient for what is
provided. Opportunity for sea bathing is near; also for hot and cold
baths in a hydropathic establishment. The _International Hotel_,
which seems more out of the city, though reached in about the same
length of time from the Avenida, is recommended as cooler in the hot
season, from October to April, and is by many preferred at any time,
on account of its delightful situation 1000 feet above the sea on
the way to Corcovado. Though the ride is but five minutes longer,
the cars do not go so often as to the Estrangeiros, which is served
by all the cars of the Jardim Botanico Co., these passing in an
almost continuous row under the Hotel Avenida. The cars to the
International set out once in 20 minutes from the farther side of
the Praça de Carioca, a Square just behind the Hotel Avenida; the
invisible starting point is around at the back of a certain
building. This line, called the Santa Theresa, goes by the rua do
Aqueducto over the arches which once bore the aqueduct, across a
portion of the city from a hill, the Morro de Sto. Antonio, to that
of Sta. Theresa, the latter being rather a ridge extending from the
peak of Corcovado. On the steep slope of the ridge the International
is situated, where the nights are ever comfortable, while the
journey to and fro is always a delight. The hotel has many suites of
rooms and bath with hot and cold water, and is a favorite resort
with many. At these three hotels the rates are much the same.

Should one prefer a more modest establishment with lower prices, a
finer outlook than any save the International, and more conveniently
located than any but the Avenida, he may go to the Pensão Suissa,
kept by a motherly German Frau, only ten minutes from the Avenida by
any of the Jardim Botanico lines, and looking out upon the bay, the
Gloria hill, the lovely Beira Mar. The rooms are as neat as
possible, so that I was able to reply to a gentleman’s query as to
red ants that I had seen none, which seemed to him a great surprise,
as he supposed that every dwelling in Rio contained them. The
various other hotels and pensions are not without merit and patrons.

One may generally get settled in his hotel in time for the noon
meal, though the luggage is not likely to arrive before the middle
of the afternoon. Yet the time should be improved, either by
sight-seeing in the middle of the city, or if one is tired by a ride
to some of the suburbs. A few tourists, caring little for the
commercial and business section of the city, devote their entire
time to the wonders of the jewel’s marvellous setting. The center of
the city should not, however, be ignored. Yet a ride in car or
automobile, according to the length of the purse, will be a
delightful beginning for the eager tourist. In an auto one may skim
over a great part of the city’s boulevards in a single afternoon.
Our admiration for these magnificent drives and parkways,
unsurpassed in the world in their opportunities for delightsome
hours, will be heightened if we are mindful of the astonishing
transformation which has here been wrought within the last decade.
In 1903 Rio was a dirty, not to say filthy, city of narrow streets,
a place to be shunned, as often a hot bed of yellow fever. For its
regeneration various plans had previously been proposed, but
President Rodriguez Alves was the man who put one of these into
execution.

AVENIDA DE RIO BRANCO
]

BOULEVARD BEIRA MAR FROM PENSÃO SUISSA
]

The slowness of Latin Americans (in fact of every one but
themselves), so favorite a theme in the talk of their northern
neighbors, does not appear in this instance. It would puzzle us, I
think, to find in the United States any city, save San Francisco
when necessity compelled, where by works of such magnitude a great
city has so speedily been metamorphosed through the destruction,
replanning, and rebuilding of some of the most compact and important
business and residence sections. Nearly $60,000,000 was devoted to
this great transformation.

The plan which was approved in September, 1903, included the
construction of a great quay arranged for ships to come alongside,
furnished with storage warehouses, railways, and electric lights,
with a parallel avenue 125 feet wide and 2 miles long; the improving
of a cross canal to the sea by making it a solidly walled stream,
with on each side an avenue shaded with palms; the lifting of the
railroad from street level to a viaduct 16 feet above; the
construction of a broad avenue straight to the Quinta of Boa Vista,
residence of the late Emperor; the increase of the water supply; the
renovation of the sewerage system with all modern improvements; the
removal of several hills; the filling in of large sections; the
widening of a number of streets; and the formation in the heart of
the city of a new avenue a mile and a quarter long and 120 feet
wide.

The inauguration of the great work of the Avenida Central, as it was
originally called, a broad thoroughfare crossing, from one side to
the other, the shallow peninsula occupied by the commercial
district, on the front of which is Caes Pharoux, occurred March 8,
1904, with the participation of the President and other officials
and with much enthusiasm on the part of the people; as a broad
outlet for the future traffic of the port was seen to be an absolute
necessity. The foundations of the building numbered 2, 4 and 6 being
then begun, the great task was swiftly advanced. Day and night was
the work pushed; 600 buildings within three months were, by 3000
workmen, utterly demolished, opening a space 230 feet wide: 65 feet
each side for the new buildings, 120 for the central paved roadway,
and 20 for each sidewalk. Along the center of the avenue a row of 53
Pão Brazil trees was planted in beds 16 feet long, and 55 posts bear
each 3 electric lights. On the sidewalks are more trees, and posts
for illumination by gas. As the trees grow larger the beauty of the
avenue will be increased. Most of the new buildings, which mark the
introduction into Brazil of American steel frame construction, are
of fine types of architecture in a variety of styles.

In other sections 1200 old buildings were sacrificed to open or
widen a dozen other streets, these now from 55 to 100 feet wide,
paved with asphalt or in a few cases with fine granite blocks. On
all sides new buildings sprang up by magic.

Of still greater magnitude and requiring more time was the
improvement of the port, now approaching completion. The stone quay
more than two miles in length, with sufficient depth of water to
allow ships of any draught to come alongside, is provided with the
most modern machinery for hoisting, loading and unloading ships, and
with two stations supplying electric power for these as well as for
lighting already in service. Back of the wall, a space where
formerly were bays and islands has been for the most part filled in,
at some points for a width of 800 feet. Then along the quay a broad
avenue was opened. A width of 80 feet for railroad tracks, of 110
feet for storage warehouses (called _armazem_) and for
administration offices, is followed by the broad well paved avenue
125 feet wide, bordered with trees and with double tracks for
electric cars. To fill in this great space sand was dredged from the
bay, and earth was brought from Senado Hill, now completely leveled.

While these great matters were undertaken by the general Government,
the new Mayor of Rio, Dr. Francisco Passos, attended to the
broadening of other streets, repaving with asphalt or with granite
blocks; to the embellishing of the city with gardens, etc., and to
the construction of the beautiful boulevard four miles long and 110
feet wide along the water front towards the Pão do Assucar. Even the
resurrection of San Francisco in one way seems less wonderful than
Rio’s transformation, in that the former was compulsory, the latter
voluntary. The greatest work in Rio was more in preparing anew the
foundations than in the actual construction. It was, says the
Brazilian writer from whom I have already quoted, “the work of an
enterprise.” He modestly says that there is nothing especial to say
about the buildings of Rio. As to those of a residential character
he asserts that some are nice, “but the majority of them is an awful
sight reminding antiquity.” To me they did not so appear, the many
being pretty and tasteful, if unpretentious, while the dwellings of
the poorer classes are less hideous than those inhabited by the poor
in our own country.

While the most delightful of the hours spent in Rio may be those
devoted to excursions to the suburbs, one should visit also the
commercial section, the public buildings, the shops, the market; and
traverse some of the streets, wide and narrow, where the life and
business of the city go on. A day or two may profitably be spent in
the busy marts of trade.

One may set out from Caes Pharoux, to which suitable attention will
hardly be given when landing. Here is a great Square or Plaza, in
Portuguese a _Praça_, that of _November 15, Quinze de Novembro_. At
the right as you face the waterfront is the _Ferry House_ for the
boats running across to Nictheroy. From here also depart excursion
boats on Sunday for a trip around the bay. The Praça has the usual
pretty garden in the center, with a bronze equestrian statue of
_General Osorio_, _Marquez do Herval_, one of the commanders in the
Paraguayan War, and also leader of the State forces of Rio Grande do
Sul in an insurrection against the first President of Brazil. On the
right hand side of the square, as one faces the water, near the
Ferry House, is a four-story building more than 150 years old, of
typical colonial architecture, once the residence of an aristocratic
family, now a lodging house. The large terra cotta building is
devoted to the _Ministry of Transportation_. The two-story pink
building, higher in the center, is of greater interest. Erected in
1747 and now occupied by the _Department of Telegraphs_, it was
first the home of the Colonial Governors; on the arrival of Prince
João it became his residence, and later served as the _Imperial
Palace_. It was here that the Princess Regent, Isabella, signed the
Emancipation Decree, May 13, 1888, as a tablet on the wall sets
forth, and from here the Emperor Dom Pedro was taken, Nov. 17, 1889,
to be placed upon a warship and banished to Europe, after the
proclamation of the Republic, Nov. 15.

On the street, rua Dom Manoel, which separates these two buildings,
next to the Ministry of Transportation, is a large green edifice
which houses the _Naval Museum_. This Museum, founded by imperial
decree in 1868, was opened to the public in 1884 with inaugurating
ceremonies by the Emperor. On the anniversary of the battle of
Riachuelo, an important naval victory in the Paraguayan campaign,
the museum was first opened in its present quarters June 11, 1898.
Free entrance daily, from 11 till 2, except Sundays and holidays.
The first section of the museum contains 29 oil paintings of
Brazil’s great naval battles, 15 of these by the celebrated marine
artist, Chevallier E. de Martino, a protégé of Dom Pedro II, and
later named by Queen Victoria Marine Painter to the Court of
England. Picture number 5, of the battle of Riachuelo, is considered
one of his best works. In the second section are portraits and
photographs of the Ministers of Marine and naval heroes, including
the British Admiral Cochrane, who also helped the Spanish Americans
in their struggle for independence. Becoming Marquez do Maranhão he
received a grant of land now held by his heirs. The third section
contains models of vessels, from the new Dreadnoughts down to canoes
and fishing boats. The fourth contains flags and standards, the
fifth, samples of artillery, cannon, and projectiles, the sixth,
hand weapons, such as spears and rifles, the seventh, naval and
Indian relics and curios, the eighth, medals, souvenirs, etc.

The large Praça has a smaller continuation at the west, facing
which, on the corner of rua 7th of September, is the _Cathedral_, to
which a great tower is now being added. On the other side is a
larger church which might be mistaken for the official building.
Neither is especially handsome, inside or out, both interiors being
in an ornate rococo style which may be admired by some. The
Cathedral, however, has as a feature of historic interest a slab set
in the wall at the left of the altar bearing an inscription in
memory of the discoverer, Pedro Álvarez Cabral, whose remains were
brought from Portugal and interred in the wall of the tower in 1903.

The Cathedral, founded in early colonial days, with this tower is
less overshadowed by the larger Igreja (Church) do Carmo on its
right. When the tower foundations were sunk, a stratum of sea sand
was struck containing fragments of ancient sea craft, showing that
the shore is now greatly advanced. The completed tower will be the
highest structure in the city. With clocks on three sides it will
carry a chime of bells, the largest of which, weighing 2½ tons, was
cast in Portugal in 1621. In the interior of the Cathedral is a fine
main altar, back of which is a painting of the Italian School.
Sub-altars to the Virgin are on each side of the nave, and one to
Santa Rosa de Lima, Patron of South America. Near the main altar is
the throne of the Cardinal Archbishop, and formerly there was in
front of this a chair of state for the use of the Emperor. A flag
carried in the Paraguayan War by the regiment of Volunteers of the
country is near the high altar. In the second niche on the right, to
one entering, is a “Christ of the Jury,” torn by a mob of
Anti-Clericals from its place in the Jury Court. Later a new one was
there placed with great pomp and processions.

On the other side of rua 7th of September is a large white building
where the _Commercial Museum_, open from ten to four, may be
visited. Business men and others are welcome, and a Bureau of
Information is at hand for the service of commercial men and
manufacturers. Here may be studied the coffee grades of the world’s
great markets, the decisions of the Tariff Commission, 229 varieties
of Brazilian vegetable products, including dyes, inks, aromatics,
gums, resins, and foods, with many medicinal plants, used among the
natives but unknown to the scientific world. Here also are 50
varieties of fibres, 2000 varieties of Brazilian wood, ten of
cotton, an exhibition of the process of rubber making, etc.

In the same building is the _Instituto Historico e Geographico_, a
society founded in 1838 with a membership from among the most
intellectual men of the country. There is a large collection of rare
books and manuscripts, also busts of bronze and marble, and relics
of various kinds, one of these the old Roda or wheel used to receive
children at the Casa dos Expostos. This hollow wooden cylinder with
an opening at the side was fixed in the wall. A baby might easily be
deposited within and the wheel pushed around carrying the baby
inside, when a bell would ring in the convent summoning the Sisters
to receive the child, which was taken charge of and brought up with
_no questions asked_.

To the south of the Praça beyond the Ferry House, and close to the
water, is the ever interesting Market Place. Fruits, flowers, birds,
meat, vegetables, and people, all merit attention, as do the well
constructed booths and the attractive cleanliness of the place.

From this square many lines of electric railways lead in various
directions, but it is only a short walk to the Avenida by the street
at the corner of the Cathedral, or by several parallel streets. It
is better perhaps first to turn to the right and follow the
important street, Primeiro de Março, parallel to the bay front. On
this street is the _Post Office_, the _Bolsa_ or Stock Exchange, of
Italian style, one of the finest buildings of the city, the _Bank of
Commerce_, and the _Supreme Court_ edifice of beautiful rose-colored
stone and marble, sumptuously decorated without and within. The
Alfandega or Custom House, of a green color, may be seen from this
rua, nearer the shore, on a street of the same name. From the
Primeiro de Março many narrow streets lead to the Avenida, which
some of them cross, among these the _Ouvidor_, long the most famous
thoroughfare of Rio and still the fashionable shopping street. Now
alas! it has received another name, Moreira Cezar, so you may look
in vain for the Ouvidor, though every one still calls it by its old
appellation. This fascinating little street is hardly 20 feet wide.
The narrow sidewalks are almost too smooth and slippery with
variously colored tiles. No carts or carriages are allowed in the
street, the center of which, well paved, is used by pedestrians. The
street is the rendezvous of high life, as well as of idlers,
students, politicians, and tourists. Here are the most elegant
shops, jewelry, book stores, dry goods, etc., with cafés and
clubhouses, some fine buildings, and others poor.

But before crossing by this to the Avenida, the _Candelaria Church_
a little to the north, on a narrow street of the same name, should
be visited. This, called the richest church in Latin America,
deserves a better location on a broad plaza, rather than here on
this little street. The edifice, planned and built by a Brazilian
engineer, Evaristo da Veiga, has three finely carved bronze doors,
and a rich and elaborate interior. Fine marble columns, a beautiful
ceiling with mosaic decorations, and fine paintings by the best
Brazilian artists, excite admiration.

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