Chapter XXIV: Buenos Aires—continued

Leaving Palermo Park by the broad Ave. Sarmiento, one has on the
left the Zoological Garden; on the right, a feature of Argentine
life of the highest importance, the buildings and grounds of the
_Rural Society_, granted by the Government to the Society for the
annual agricultural and cattle shows. Upon grounds which cover
180,000 square meters are fine pavilions for various purposes;
stables accommodating 500 horses or cattle, park room for 736, a
roofed space for 3500 sheep, an enclosure of 4500 square meters as
show ground, with two stands seating 2000 persons. There are three
large pavilions and others smaller for the display of agricultural
machinery and products, and an immense kiosk for the products of the
dairy. The exhibitions, occurring in the months of September and
October, concluding with horse races, are a social event. In order
to appreciate the leading position in such matters held by
Argentina, one must attend one of these expositions, so well
conducted as to have attained a degree of perfection unsurpassed in
the world in the number and pure blood of animals exhibited. These
expositions, organized by Señor G. A. de Posadas in 1858, have been
a powerful influence in the improvement of stock and in the pride
taken in blooded animals. They were the starting point of Argentine
stock breeding. The _Sociedad Rural_ was organized in 1866. During
the Presidency of Sarmiento 1868-74, an Agricultural Bureau was
organized, and in 1898 the Ministry of Agriculture, a prime
necessity in view of the staple industries of the country. 1905 was
the record year for the exhibition of cattle, with 2389 head, after
which a limit was fixed to the number of entries in each class by
one exhibitor. The variety of cattle most favored is the Shorthorn,
forming 88 per cent, 9 per cent are Herefords and there are some
Durhams and other breeds. Of the sheep, more are Lincolns, of
horses, Clydesdales and Percherons, with some Morgan race horses.
The leading nations of Europe took part in the International
Exposition, June, 1910. At the National Exhibition in September, the
sales amounted to over $7,000,000.

A separate Fat Stock show is now held, with high priced sales and
with frozen meat sent to England. Congress has devoted 100,000
_pesos_ annually to such an exhibit.

The fine studs of the country contain 400 thorough-bred stallions
and 3000 brood mares, producing 1500 foals yearly. There are 66,500
thorough-bred horses. Ormonde, purchased for £19,000, was sold in
the United States for £23,000. Diamond Jubilee cost 30,000 guineas,
Flying Fox 37,000. Cyllene, bought for £30,000 was sought for at
double the price to be returned. The sons of these horses, raised in
this splendid climate, are excellent runners.

In the agricultural section are exhibited cereals and other
products; from the north, coffee, cotton, and tobacco; more
important, the linseed, wheat, corn, and rape, also beans and peas,
woods, fruits, wools, ostrich feathers, grape and wine products,
potatoes, sugar cane, yerba mate; minerals,—marble, onyx, petroleum,
silver;—agricultural machinery, pumps for watering stock, windmills,
engines, threshing machines, shearers, locust destroying machines,
etc.

At the Round Point of this Avenue is a _Statue of Domingo F.
Sarmiento_ (after whom the avenue is named) by the sculptor Rodin.
Unveiled May 25, 1900, it represents Sarmiento advancing over the
laurels which have fallen at his feet, his face expressing the
serenity, decision, and energy, which characterized him.

The statue rests upon a block of marble, on the face of which
Apollo, the god of light and thought advances, dispelling shadows,
while the Python, representing Ignorance and Foulness slinks back in
death. Two other statues in the Park are, one, in front of the
Administration Building, of Dr. Carlos G. Burmeister, who was many
years director of the Museum of Natural History, the other of Dr.
Eduardo Costa, a remarkable jurist who rendered great services to
the State.

On the Avenue are seen two bronze lions, reproductions of those at
the Palace of Luxembourg in Paris. They have been much admired, as
the most perfect representations of these animals yet produced.

At the end of the short Ave. Sarmiento is the Plaza Italia, adorned
with a striking monument by the sculptor Macagnani of _General
Giuseppe Garibaldi_, the gift of resident Italians and Argentines
uniting in a sentiment of fraternal admiration for the hero, who is
here represented on horseback. The monument, inaugurated June 2,
1904, has below at the sides of the pediment two statues; one,
Victory, who many times crowned the hero with laurels, the other,
Liberty, for which he shed his blood. Excellent bas-reliefs
represent episodes in Garibaldi’s life.

In the angle between Sarmiento and Avenue Las Heras is the entrance
to the _Zoological Garden_ and between the latter and Santa Fé an
entrance to the _Botanical Garden_, this not always open, the
principal gateway being in the middle of the side on Santa Fé, No.
3951. To each of these Gardens an entire half day should if possible
be devoted and some persons would enjoy a longer time in each. Now
observing only their location, we return to the city in time for
dinner by Ave. Santa Fé, a street about ten miles long, extending
from Plaza San Martin out to the suburb Belgrano. At No. 3795
adjoining the Botanical Garden is the _National Conservatory of
Vaccination_ (dependent on the Department of Hygiene) where children
are vaccinated by thousands and from which vaccine is sent to all
parts of the Republic except the Province of Buenos Aires. On the
other side of the Avenue, on the corner of Uriarte, is an
Association of young Society ladies, called Las Filomenas, its
purpose that of giving to poor children a practical education by
teaching them a trade. A new route will be by the broad Ave. Callao
to Ave. de Mayo, but thus will be missed many fine residences on
Santa Fé which, however, will keep for the next time.

To see the _Botanical Garden_ one may drive rapidly about, or take
the leisurely walk which is necessary fully to appreciate its
beauties. This important institution, said to be unequaled in the
world, is the work of the celebrated Carlos Thays, its organizer and
director. His red brick residence is directly in front of the main
gateway. Just within the

BOTANICAL GARDEN
]

ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN, HOUSE OF ZEBUS
]

entrance is a plan of the grounds, extremely useful in enabling one
to visit parts of especial interest or to make a systematic tour of
the entire garden. In this limited space is found a collection of
the leading characteristic flora of the whole earth. The climate
lends itself remarkably to the formation of such a collection,
permitting both tropical growths and those of the cooler parts of
the earth. Here are hot houses, a fernery, a Louis XV, and a Roman
garden, industrial and medicinal plants, fruit trees, _yerba mate_,
aquatic plants, a department of acclimatization, Argentine flora,
and sections devoted to Europe, Asia, Africa, North, South, and
Central America, Canadian pines, and Sahara palms, a wonderful
variety of rich colors and luxuriant growth. Naturally the Argentine
collection is fullest, practically perfect, exhibiting, in specimens
from Tierra del Fuego to Mendoza and the Chaco, a good portion of
the varieties of the globe. A flourishing Victoria Regia is in the
little lake of the garden of Louis XV. A truly delightful afternoon
will be spent by many, and another will be passed near by.

The _Zoological Garden_ may be entered from the Plaza Italia, fee 10
_ctvs._, or at two other points. Coming from the Plaza one’s
attention may first be attracted by the sight of a white llama all
saddled and bridled, looking in the summer, very quaint with his
wool clipped off. (Perhaps it is allowed to grow in cold weather.) A
little boy or girl may be enjoying a ride on his back. The animal is
tame but must be gently handled. The Garden is a captivating place.
Among beautiful lakes and trees is a charming array of artistic and
elegant pavilions for the various animals, these in general
constructed in the style of architecture of the country from which
the residents have come. For the elephants there is, with a spacious
yard for exercise, a splendid mansion, where a little one was born
in 1906, a rare occurrence in captivity. An imposing edifice houses
a large variety of bears including the white polars; an Egyptian
temple contains gorillas and chimpanzees, an Indian palace, the
zebus, in correct style of architecture exhibiting the fantasy of
the race. The extensive palace with the ferocious animals, lions,
Bengal tigers, panthers, jaguars, etc., is of especial interest at
feeding time. An immense cage contains condors, eagles, and other
large birds, while smaller ones hold other varieties, lovely white
parrots, and some entirely pink with curious head feathers, probably
macaws. These, with the beautiful white peacocks, are especially
fascinating; the black and white swans are noticeable. Many other
animals, snakes, etc., too numerous to mention, are also on
exhibition. In attractive restaurants a large dish of ice cream may
be had for 30 _ctvs._, and various other viands.

Less extensive than the great collection in the Bronx, the animals
are more magnificently housed, and across the beautiful lakes the
Garden has many vistas of romantic beauty.

In the central portion of the city are many attractions meriting the
attention of the tourist. The _Museum of Fine Arts_ on Plaza San
Martin, northeast corner, contains a worthy collection of paintings,
chiefly of the modern French School. This Museum, decreed by the
National Government, July 16, 1895, was organized by Edward
Schiaffino and opened Dec. 25, 1896. The collection has been formed
from a legacy by Adrian E. Rossi of 81 canvases, donations from a
large number of private individuals, works of art belonging to the
State previously scattered in various public buildings, and by many
purchases. It includes a considerable number of pieces of sculpture.
Among the paintings of various schools may be observed the familiar
names of Puvis de Chavannes, Meissonier, Van Ostade, Luca Giordano,
Corot, and dozens more. The collection is well arranged and lighted,
and a full half day is requisite to give a cursory glance at the
fine works of art here assembled.

A number of private galleries in the city afford evidence of refined
taste and of the desire of persons of great wealth to acquire
collections of artistic worth. To visit these in the homes of their
possessors, persons desiring the privilege should endeavor to
procure a card of introduction, though in some cases permission may
be gained by direct application to the owners, who courteously
receive strangers, whether amateurs or artists. The gallery of the
estate of José Prudencio de Guerrico, Corrientes, 537, is a museum
of art as well as picture gallery, called one of the first in South
America. With many others it contains works of Daubigny, Corot,
Diaz, Meissonier, Greuze, Rosa Bonheur. The gallery of Parmenio T.
Piñero, Corrientes, 633, has a splendid specimen of Sorolla, a fine
example of Castro Placencia, with works of Doré, Bonheur, Fortuny,
etc. At Talcahuano 1138, the salon of Laurent Pellerano presents
paintings, classical, international, and Argentine, 40 of Italian
artists, 18 Spanish including Murillo and Sorolla, 9 French and a
good number of Argentine. In the salon of Dr. Joseph R. Semprun,
Tucumán 757, is a collection of various styles, with many fine works
purchased in Europe since 1830. The gallery of Jean Canter, B. Mitre
516, contains paintings, sculpture, pottery, and engraving of
various styles and periods. The gallery at Maipu 929, belonging to
Piladeo Soldaini, open on Sundays from one to three, has a
collection especially of Italian and Spanish artists with more than
50 different signatures. At Paraguay, 1327, in the home of General
Garmendia are 150 paintings including canvases of rare merit by
unknown and by famous artists, and portraits of members of the
family, with an interesting museum of armor of the fifteenth and
sixteenth centuries, fire arms, poniards, and daggers of various
periods, historic swords of Gen. San Martin, Rozas, and others, and
personal relics of the Paraguayan war in which the General was
engaged.

The _Museum of Natural History_ at the corner of Peru and Alsina,
with entrance on the former, is of great value; but in 1911 was so
badly housed that a small portion only of its treasures were
visible. Decreed by the Assembly, May 27, 1812, and actually
installed after an ordinance of Rivadavia, Dec. 31, 1823, little was
accomplished until the fall of the tyrant Rozas. At length the post
of Director was offered to a professor of the German University of
Halle, Charles Germain Conrad Burmeister, who, by a previous journey
to Brazil and Rio de la Plata, had greatly advanced scientific
knowledge of the fauna and flora of these regions. Dr. Burmeister,
landing in Buenos Aires September, 1861, developed the institution
into a renowned scientific establishment. The remarkable
paleozoologic section has a world-wide reputation. Fossil animals of
the antediluvian epoch, largely derived from the Argentine pampa,
were reconstructed by the scientist, who wrote many works embodying
the result of painful research in reference to prehistoric
creatures. After 30 years of service the great scholar at the
advanced age of 95, resolved to retire, but anxious for the
continuance of his work he first secured the appointment of Dr.
Charles Berg, previously in Montevideo. To Dr. Burmeister, who
believed that the Museum was for the benefit of science and not to
gratify idle curiosity, is due the fact that the Museum is so badly
housed; as when a new edifice was proposed he said he would be
buried there rather than leave. Many improvements in the display of
objects have been made by Dr. Berg, but want of light and space is
apparent, and the collection will soon be transferred to a building
in consonance with its merits. The present edifice is an ancient
cloister of the Jesuits in which the University was installed Nov.
3, 1783. The greater part of the visible exposition is up one
flight. Of especial interest are the enormous skeletons of
prehistoric animals. The Museum has five sections, including
Zoology, Paleontology, Ethnology, Botany, and one of Geology and
Mineralogy; also a library of more than 10,000 volumes, chiefly
important works for the study of Natural History.

No one should fail to visit the _National Historical Museum_ in the
Parque Lezama, open on Thursdays and Sundays from noon to four, and
entered from calle Defensa, 1600. The six rooms and a gallery are so
crowded with relics that the Government is planning the construction
of an edifice more worthy to preserve the trophies of the glorious
record of the country’s history. The better one’s acquaintance with
this history, the far greater pleasure in the examination of these
relics of the past; but at least a casual glance is due from every
traveler. The Museum was created in 1890 as a municipal institution
by Señor Adolph P. Carranza, with 191 objects: private donations,
and trophies previously preserved in the Government Palace and the
Natural History Museum. In 1891, it became national in character and
since Sept. 1897, it has been in its present locality. In 1907, it
contained 4500 pieces, not all on exhibition on account of
insufficient space. At the left of the entrance are the offices, at
the right, the salons. The library, originating with a gift of
Director Carranza, contains 1500 volumes of American History and MS.
of great importance. The Museum has a rich collection of
numismatics, 4000 pieces, including rare examples of medals
commemorating the epoch of Independence, and many of other periods.
In the first salon may be seen on the left a celebrated plaque of
silver with reliefs in gold sent in August, 1807, by the Corporation
of Oruro, Bolivia, to Buenos Aires, and to General Liniers, to
commemorate the retaking of the city. Above is the sword of the
British General Beresford, surrendered by him at the time of
capture. From the plaque is suspended a shield no less famous,
called _Tarja de Potosí_, of gold and silver, presented by the
ladies of that city to the general and patriot, Manuel Belgrano; and
with this are medals in memory of his triumphs at Salta and Tucumán.
In this and other rooms are two royal Spanish standards, one dating
from 1605; portraits of Viceroys; explorers, as Valdivia, Mendoza,
Ponce de Leon, discoverer of Florida, Pizarro, and others; many
pictures of battles; furniture, dishes, and other relics of
distinguished men. At the doorway of the third salon, is a silver
statue of the British Minister, George Canning, presented in 1857 to
Dr. Alsina. In the salon is a reconstruction of the chamber in which
San Martin lived and died, the furniture, pictures, etc., given by
his descendants, with pictures of the battles in which he fought,
and a hundred other interesting objects. In the fourth room is
preserved under a glass his uniform as Protector of Peru, and his
saber of Moorish style. Medals, flags, and various other interesting
relics are here also. The sixth room has, with other relics,
trophies, and representations of the war with Paraguay.

The Libraries of the city will be visited by tourists of literary
tastes if not by others. The _National Library_ was founded at the
very birth of the nation in 1810, by the Revolutionary _Junta_, who
placed in charge Dr. Mariano Moreno. In 1796, the prelate, don
Manuel Azamory Ramirez, had at his death left his books for this
object, but the English invasion in 1806 delayed the execution of
the plan. The project received enthusiastic support in the
substantial form of gifts. Installed in a house of the Jesuits where
it remained till 1902, it was then removed to its present quarters
on calle Mexico, 560–566, soon to be enlarged. A fine vestibule and
staircase lead to the spacious reading room. There is a handsome
hall for lectures, and the ordinary appurtenances of a library. The
institution in 1880 passed from the hands of the City to the
Government, when Buenos Aires was federalized. The building, heated
in winter, is then open from 11.30 to 4; in summer, from noon till
5. The last figures obtainable were of 200,000 volumes and 10,000
MS.

Equally interesting is the _Library_ of the late _General B. Mitre_,
preserved in his former residence, San Martin, 336, where he died;
this, Congress has decreed a public monument in recognition of his
glorious services to the nation as a statesman, a writer, and a
soldier. The dissipation of the library would have been a public
calamity. It is a bibliographic treasure, amassed by General Mitre
during fifty years of active intellectual life. It is distinguished
by American historical works, especially documents and MS. collected
for his own writings, the Story of Belgrano, 3 vol. and of San
Martin, 4 vol. The library has twelve sections, including the works
on the pre-Columbian native races of America, their languages,
culture, geography, etc.; the discovery of America; further
exploration; Rio de la Plata in general and particular; Spanish
America; Portuguese America; North America; boundary limits, laws,
seals, constitutions, treaties, etc.; with letters and stamps. I was
interested to observe under glass a letter written by Sidney S.
Rider of Providence, informing the General of his election as an
Honorary Member of the Rhode Island Historical Society, an evidence
that his fame had reached one corner of the United States.

The _Library Rivadavia_, Lavalle, 935, founded May 20, 1879, by the
Bernardino Rivadavia Association, is free to readers, but the
members pay one _peso_ a month for the privilege of taking out
books. It contains about 30,000 volumes.

PATIO IN NEW HALL OF JUSTICE
]

COLON THEATRE
]

The _Library of the Sociedad Tipográfica Bonaerense_, Solis 707,
with more than 5000 volumes, is noteworthy as receiving all journals
and reviews of the Republic. Open 7-10 p.m. Entrance free.

There are especial libraries: that of the _Faculty of Medicine_,
Córdoba 2180, open daily to students and the public, and having more
than 20,000 volumes, that of the _Law_, Moreno 350, and that on
_Education_, well stocked on this subject, for the use of teachers
and others who may apply. The library of _La Prensa_ is open to the
public from 2 to 7 and from 9 to 12 p.m.

In this connection reference to the newspapers seems appropriate.
The leading journals publish news from every corner of the globe,
all that is worthy of interest: they contain much more foreign news
and cable dispatches than any New York paper. Instead of the
enormous quantity of trivial gossip about public and private
individuals which forms so large a part of the reading matter of
most of our papers, they have in addition to real news of State, and
of mercantile and commercial matters at home and abroad, articles
scientific and literary, information as to art, music, and every
field of activity. In their high ideals of duty in molding public
opinion and in correcting abuses, they are regarded by foreign
critics as among the most important and advanced of the world. To
this, the first rank of their press, belong the _Prensa_ and the
_Nación_ among morning papers, the _Diario_, of afternoon. These,
with _El Pais_, _Tiempo_, _La Razon_, and _La Patria degli Italiani_
show the highest degree of excellence as to their illustrations,
typography, material, and housing. _La Nación_, originating in 1857
under the name _Los Debates_, was edited by Gen. Mitre until 1862,
and in 1870, took its present name. It is noted for the elegance and
literary character, as well as for the intrinsic value of its
writings. There are more than 400 publications in the Republic
including 100 in foreign languages, many naturally poor and
ephemeral in character. There are some excellent illustrated papers;
_Caras y Caretas_, the _P. B. T._ and _La Illustración
Sud-Americana_.

On the Plaza Lavalle are several important buildings of great
interest to every tourist. On the west side is the new _Palace of
Justice_ on a site formerly occupied by the Artillery Armory, a work
of much splendor both without and within; the edifice, of the
neo-Greek style, constructed by Joseph E. Bernasconi after a design
by the French architect, Norbert Meillar, at a cost of about a
million and a half dollars. The main building, 125 feet in height,
has seven stories, the four central bodies surmounted by a cupola.
Steps lead from the Plaza to a broad portico and vestibule, from
which fine stairways conduct to the third floor, the seat of the
Supreme Court. Other great staircases lead up from north and south;
from Lavalle street is a covered passage way admitting vehicles with
criminals. On the main floor are the chambers for Federal Courts and
their Secretaries, the Criminal and Correctional Tribunals. A Jury
Hall is an amphitheater seating 700. The Supreme Court Room on the
third floor, 70 by 38 feet and 60 feet high, is separated from the
front by a fine gallery looking upon the plaza. Every floor is
arranged for eight tribunals or courts, each with audience chamber,
private rooms for judge and secretaries, and rooms for employees.
There are several patios adorned with beautiful columns, one in
style somewhat after the Caryatides of the Erechtheion in Athens.
The archives will be kept on the ground floor: the three upper
stories are reserved for use when needed. Six passenger elevators
and two freight supply required service.

On the opposite side of the plaza is a building which to many will
be still more attractive, the _Colon Theater_, without its equal in
America, and some say in the world. No shops disfigure the ground
floor, nor do any of the façades resemble the walls of a prison. The
exterior is of the Ionic order of architecture below, the Corinthian
above, and at the top a rather composite construction. The height to
the cornice is about 80 feet. From the main entrance on the plaza a
vestibule leads to a hall 45 by 90 feet and 80 feet high, from which
a staircase 45 feet wide and adorned with 16 large statues conducts
to the level of the orchestra chairs of the auditorium, one of the
largest in the world, accommodating 3570 persons. The entire length
of one balcony is nearly 250 feet, 10 more than that of St. Charles
in Naples. The floor space 90 by 70, has 900 chairs on 7 levels. The
stage, 60 feet broad and 65 feet high, from foundations to arch is
150 feet. The building is fire-proof, with fine acoustic properties,
and the best of light, heat, and ventilation. The cost was nearly
$2,000,000. The theater is a government building where operas are
performed by the leading European artists, Mascagni and others
conducting. It has been said that the Argentines discover the great
singers; later they come to New York. The seats are more expensive
than at the Metropolitan and the audience is as brilliant as any in
the world.

TOMB, RECOLETA CEMETERY
]

RECOLETA PARK
]

The edifice north of the theater deserves more than a passing
glance, a beautiful school building called the _President Roca_,
fitted with all the latest improvements and containing a charming
patio at which every one should take a peep, since this may be done
without disturbing the inmates. An equally beautiful school building
is the _Sarmiento_ on Callao. On the opposite side of the Plaza
Lavalle is another excellent and well equipped school.

Many theaters there are besides the Colon; the _Opera_, at
Corrientes 860, now used for light opera, the _San Martin_ on
Esmeralda 257, the _National Theater_ designed for the
representation of works written in the country, and many more of all
classes including vaudeville and cinematograph, as may be seen by
consulting the daily papers. The performances begin usually at 8.30,
sometimes at 9. For the opera, full dress is _de rigueur_, the
ladies _en décolleté_; and the spectacle on a fête day, as the 25th
of May or 9th of July, should not be missed by the tourist.

At the _Colisée Argentin_, Charcas 1109, is a permanent circus of
modern arrangement accommodating 1700.

In the city are many _Conservatories of Music_ and musical
societies. Concerts are given in various places, besides those in
the Parks by the excellent military bands.

Six blocks west of Plaza Lavalle and two north, facing Paraguay
street, is a fine building occupying a whole block, the purpose of
which would hardly be suspected. Instead of the public institution
which it might be supposed to contain, it has indeed public works,
tanks containing the city’s water supply. It is called the _Aguas
Corrientes_ and may be inspected within, on a permit to be procured
from the President of the Commission, Rivadavia 1255. A fine view of
the city will be enjoyed from the roof.

The building opposite is the _Normal School for Girls_.

A little farther west is the building of the _Medical School_,
facing Córdoba, and on the corner of Los Andes. The fine edifice
contains offices, lecture halls, a large amphitheater, laboratories,
dissecting rooms, library, etc. The handsomely decorated salon where
degrees are conferred has a ceiling of artistic merit representing
the triumph of Science. Paintings on the walls illustrate some of
these, such as Jenner innoculating with the first vaccine, Pasteur
examining cultures of microbes, and many others. In the amphitheater
is a large painting by Charles Leroy, representing _Meditation upon
Death_, presented by Dr. Toribio Ayerza. The school has annexes for
Pharmacy and Dentistry and in a separate building a School of
Obstetrics for midwives. Opposite the Medical School, is the
_Maternity Hospital_, and connected with the former the _Morgue_,
equipped in the finest manner with refrigerators and every facility
desirable for such an establishment. The public entrance is on
Junín. The standard of the Medical School is so high that only about
60 per cent of its students are graduated. Other departments of the
University are located in different parts of the city. A beautiful
structure of the Gothic style of architecture has been designed for
the Law School. The Agricultural School in the suburbs has
commodious buildings and large grounds.

The _Recoleta Cemetery_, no one should fail to visit. Well within
the city, it is easy of access by car or carriage, in the direction
of Palermo Park but not so far,—a city of the dead among the living,
a _crowded_ city with no room for more, save in the lots and tombs
already well filled. The Municipal Cemetery now in general use,
supplied with a crematory, is the Chacarita, five miles from the
Plaza. But in the Recoleta are monuments to many Argentine heroes,
and splendid works of art which would adorn any gallery. To mention
even the most notable of these would require too much space. A few
only may be named. In a chapel near the entrance is a great marble
Crucifix by Monteverde, the Christ represented in realistic agony. A
beautiful statue of _Grief_ by Tantardini stands upon the tomb of
Quiroga. The finest of the tombs is said to be that of Dr. François
J. Muñiz, physician, soldier, and philanthropist. A superb female
figure of bronze representing _Science_, is seated below, a bust of
the physician is above. The tombs of Ayerza, of Ocampo, and others
are also adorned with beautiful statues of allegorical figures. A
full half day should be allowed for a careful study of the works of
art and the tombs of many famous Argentines.

MERCADO DE FRUTOS AND RIACHUELO
]

BUILDING OF PUBLIC SCHOOL, SARMIENTO
]

A visit to the _Frigorificos_ and to the _Docks_ and _Harbor_ should
be on the programme of every tourist. Those who care for such things
may like first to visit the _Slaughter Houses_ on the edge of the
town, the extreme west, at a place appropriately called Nueva
Chicago. These, inaugurated March, 1900, occupy an immense rectangle
on Merlo, Arco, and San Fernando streets, about 1200 by 3000 feet.
The _abattoirs_ against the outer wall cover each 400 square feet
and the courts for the animals, 15,000 feet; room for 30,000 head of
cattle. All arrangements are of the best fashion, with suitable
constructions for every necessity, including a crematory for useless
animals. To see the animals slaughtered, a visit should be made in
the early morning. The tramways leading thither may be taken on
calle San Juan or on Rivadavia; round trip by the former, 70
_ctvs._; by the latter 10 _ctvs._ each way. An hour must be allowed
for the journey.

Many who will prefer to be excused from visiting slaughter houses
may yet enjoy a visit to the great _Frigorificos_, where no
unpleasant sights need be witnessed, but where some insight may be
gained into the wonderful industry which has been so great a factor
in the rapid increase of Argentina’s wealth. An electric car will
take one to the bridge across the Riachuelo, an important structure
of iron opened in August, 1902, of immense service to the teams
carrying loads to the Central Produce Market, the _Mercado Central
de Frutos_ (not fruits), where cattle and agricultural products are
sold for export, an immense traffic, the most important, it is said,
in South America. As long ago as 1906, 5000 vehicles daily crossed
this bridge. At the left on the other side is the _Frigorifico La
Blanca_, opened Sept. 1903, an establishment of imposing appearance
and completeness with its courts, offices, and warehouses. Passing
some of these, one comes to a pool in which animals by the hundred
are bathed before going to the slaughter house, whither _we_ are not
obliged to follow. Here is a track on which run automatic cars
transporting the slain animals to the air chambers. Three boilers of
200 horse power, a depot of ammonia, a fire engine and two electric
light installations are beyond the three refrigerating chambers,
which will accommodate at the same time 7000 beef and 70,000 sheep.
The pipes of ammonia are 60 miles long. To see rows on rows of
hanging cattle covered with a thin coating of snow as it appears,
really frost, which on pipes and walls is a quarter of an inch
thick, is quite impressive. The _fortunate_ visitor may be regaled
by the English Superintendent with a hospitable cup of tea.

Beyond this establishment is the _Mercado de Frutos_, the great wool
market of the world, where other products also are sold, grain,
cattle, fruit, etc. The iron building which covers over 30 acres
cost $4,155,000 gold. It contains 72 cranes and elevators, 44
hydraulic presses, motors, engines, etc. With a capacity of over
50,000,000 lbs. of wool the greatest quantity yet stored was in Feb.
1901, when there were 35 million lbs. within and 5 million in wagons
outside. To see the wools being sorted, and other operations, and at
other times of the year the different products of the season is of
very great interest.

Above the bridge, the _Frigorifico La Negra_, founded in 1883 by
Sansinena, employs nearly 700 men and boys, has four Stern
refrigerating machines, and three from Switzerland, and with a
capital of $3,000,000 pays annual dividends of from 18 to 50 per
cent. Another establishment called _Frigorifico Argentino_, a joint
stock company, is nearly as large as the _Mercado dos Frutos_. A
single man kills 6000 sheep daily, so skillful is he and so perfect
are the arrangements. In connection with the beef is a department
for making Liebig’s Extract. Many interesting operations carried on
here would take too long to describe.

A great establishment in this quarter is that of Domingo Noceti &
Co. with immense workshops, foundry, iron-work, etc., connected with
the railway.

On the way thither or on the return, several important institutions
may be passed or visited.

PASEO COLON, GRAIN ELEVATORS IN THE DISTANCE
]

DARSENA NORD AND MARINE SHOPS
]

The _Hospital Mercedes for the Insane_, established in 1863, is well
located on the calle Brandsen, on high land with fine large
buildings and grounds, the latter including well paved, shaded
streets, parks, and gardens. It has separate apartments for persons
needing continual surveillance, and for all grades and conditions,
each section with refectory, salon, dormitory, etc.; also workshops
for the manufacture of many articles, and opportunities for
gardening, painting, music, etc., for those who are able to work. At
one time there were more than 1000 poor patients and 132 paying.
Baths, medicinal and plain, a gymnasium, library, music, and
billiard rooms are provided. Opposite is a Building for Idiots,
established 1855 by philanthropists, with accommodations for 500.

The _Arsenal of War_, also in this quarter of the city, may be
reached by cars coming down Callao and Entre Rios, though located on
Pozos between Garay and Brazil. Everything needful for the making or
repairing of war material, for the furnishing of barracks and most
of the military establishments, is here provided. The workshops will
interest many, and the depot of war supplies. The buildings, lighted
by electricity, are surrounded by large and well planted gardens.
There is a gallery for artillery practice. If passing along the Ave.
Callao, at 540 the school building _Sarmiento_ should be noticed,
admirable both without and within.

The splendid _Docks of Buenos Aires_ deserve the attention of every
visitor. Although now utterly inadequate for the requirements of the
city’s commerce they are models as far as they go. When constructed
it was supposed that they would provide ample accommodations for
many years, as no one looked forward to the astonishingly rapid
growth of both city and commerce. The port has two sections, the
original and natural harbor at the Riachuelo south of the city,
where the stream so called, entering the River, allows ships drawing
18 feet only to go some distance up. The docks on both sides of this
stream form a very important auxiliary to the more modern section on
the River, the tonnage some years ago reaching 1,200,000 annually.

The chief port constructed on the bank of the great River is
composed of two large basins called the north and south _darsenas_,
and between these, four docks. The _Darsena Sud_ is more than half a
mile long and 500 feet wide, the first and second docks are about
1800 by 500 feet, the other two a little smaller. The _Darsena Nord_
has an area of a million square feet. In the basins the depth of
water is 21 feet, in the docks 23.9 at the lowest. The entire water
surface of this port is over 150 acres. The Riachuelo has but two
sheds for merchandise; this, the Capital port, has 24 depots, 8 of
iron and 16 of masonry. Their dock frontage is 8000 feet, their
capacity over 2 million cubic feet. There is hydraulic motive power,
four motors, 36 elevators, and all other necessities, including
nearly 50 miles of railway.

Two large grain elevators at Docks 2 and 3 belong to private
companies, one with a capacity for 85,000 tons of grain. Next to
these is a mill for making flour, the Rio de la Plata, which cost
$15,000,000. The port is lighted by electricity, 180 lamps of 280
watts, and 261 of 400 watts placed 100 feet apart, so that ships can
come in by night as well as by day. It is said to be the best
lighted harbor in the world, except that of London. New York is far
behind. The cost of the harbor works was approximately $35,000,000.
Plans are already made for vastly greater facilities extending for
miles up the river.

The neatness and cleanliness of the docks and their approaches will
probably excite the greatest astonishment, and the manner in which
they are shut off from the rest of the city by the beautiful Parque
de Julio and the Paseo Colon. Between these and the river is an
immensely broad, well paved street with appropriate structures and
ample room for all traffic. A call to see the Immigrants’ Hotel,
where fine accommodations for the use of the immigrants are provided
in several large buildings close to the Darsena Nord, is well worth
while.

An excursion by no means to be omitted is that to _El Tigre_, the
fashionable summer and boating resort, where regattas at times occur
and where all kinds of water craft are in evidence. It is a short
rail or boat ride, an hour or so, to the delightful spot where the
river Tigre flows into La Plata. The former is overspread with a
perfect network of islands covered with trees, gardens, meadows, and
charming vine-clad cottages. On the main shore are pretty hotels and
restaurants with music and other attractions, people in outing
flannels and in evening dress, a delightful combination of wealth,
fashion, and natural beauty, which every one may enjoy.

An excursion should be made from Buenos Aires to La Plata; according
to one’s taste and pocketbook, to Mar del Plata. A visit to an
_estancia_ will be greatly enjoyed if permission can be obtained
from the proprietor; but the large ones near the city are few in
number and obviously it would be inconvenient for them to entertain
all passing travelers. With friends at court, the few may be able to
arrange a visit.

ON THE RIVER TIGRE
]

LEGISLATIVE BUILDING, LA PLATA
]

At _estancias_ far out on the _campo_ it is different, and the rare
stranger is pretty sure to receive a welcome.

=La Plata.= The excursion requires a full long day. The journey is
made by rail from the fine large station on the Plaza Constitución,
by the Southern Railway, the F. C. S. The first important station is
_Quilmes_, 9 km., a historic spot, taking its name from an Indian
tribe which was conquered and deported in 1670. Here landed, June
25, 1806, the English General Beresford with 2000 soldiers for the
capture of Buenos Aires, meeting with temporary success; and off
shore Feb. 24, 1827, Admiral Brown defeated the Brazilian squadron
during a war for the possession of Uruguay. A pretty Gothic church
may be seen from the station. On the edge of the town is a vineyard,
a brewery also. So far come electric cars, starting from a bridge
over the Riachuelo in the part of the city called Barracas. From the
station _Pereyra_, 39 kilometers, a branch road goes to the port of
_Ensenada_, and in this vicinity are several large _estancias_, the
San Juan, the Pereyra, and the _Estancia Grande_. Fifty-seven
kilometers southeast of Buenos Aires and five from Ensenada is _La
Plata_, a city made to order, like Washington, to be the capital,
not of the Republic, but of the Province, we should say State, of
Buenos Aires, after the city, B. A., had been made the Federal
Capital. The decree was promulgated Nov. 19, 1882. The city is well
planned with rectangular blocks, but with the addition of many
diagonal boulevards, of parks and plazas. On account of the
wonderful growth of Buenos Aires, so near, the development of La
Plata has not equaled expectations, as for many years was the case
with our own capital, Washington; but in time, like that, it will
become a splendid city. The chief points worthy of observation are
the various Government Buildings, the _Casa de Gobierno_, residence
and offices of the Governor, the _Legislative Hall_, the _City
Building_ (Municipalidad), the _Dirección de Escuelas_, the
_Department of Engineers_, the great _University Buildings_, the
_Astronomical Observatory_ founded by the Government in 1883, and
most famous of all, the _Museum_. A carriage may be hired at the
station at one _peso_ an hour, or a tramcar will make a considerable
circuit, fare 10 _centavos_. A large _Asylum for Mendicants_,
satisfying an important social necessity, has been erected by the
philanthropist, Placide Martin.

The _La Plata Museum_ (open fête days including Sundays from 1 to
4), having a world-wide reputation for its large collection,
anthropological and ethnological, was founded Sept. 17, 1884, by
Francisco P. Moreno. While the departments mentioned are the most
famous, the museum also contains sections devoted to zoology,
geology and mineralogy, and to archæology. The substantial
architecture of the building and the arrangement of the interior and
of the specimens is equal to that of European collections.
Unscientific persons will be interested in many of the objects
presented, the stuffed animals, the skeletons of prehistoric
creatures, the mummies, the pottery, and other objects.

=Mar del Plata=, called the Newport of South America, is an
extremely expensive and fashionable seaside resort about 250 miles
from Buenos Aires. The night trains with Pullman cars are well
patronized. In the summer season tickets must be procured in advance
and rooms engaged at the hotels. The _Hotel Bristol_, American plan,
12 _pesos_ up, is the most luxurious, equipped with every possible
convenience. The _Grand_, _Victoria_, _Royal_ and many others are
very comfortable.

The city has more than 10,000 inhabitants, with boulevards, plazas,
splendid chalets and “cottages” of the Newport fashion. There are
casinos, theaters, golf course, bathing establishments, and
everything requisite for a resort of wealth and fashion on the
grandest scale.

UNIVERSITY BUILDING, LA PLATA
]

MUSEUM, LA PLATA
]

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