Chapter XV: Other Regions of Bolivia—routes to the Sea

=Tiahuanaco.= All who have an interest in legendary lore and in
ancient monuments of a mysterious past should surely make the
excursion to Tiahuanaco. Even those who have no especial leanings in
that direction cannot fail to be impressed and may possibly be
fascinated by these strange relics of a bygone age. Taking the
morning train to Guaqui, one descends at Tiahuanaco and after a stay
of three or four hours may return to La Paz in the evening. The real
student could profitably devote as many days as the ordinary tourist
would hours to the examination of the ruins. These are believed by
Sir Clements Markham to indicate the existence of a large city,
while others think that this was rather an immense sanctuary and
never a place of general residence. The existing remains on the
broad plateau, 135 feet above Lake Titicaca, from which it is 12
miles distant, are supposed when erected to have been on the shore
of the lake. A great terraced mound of earth, supported by stone
walls, having an area of 620 by 450 feet and a height of 50 feet, is
called a fortress, and also a palace. Long used as a stone quarry
for the erection of buildings in neighboring towns, even in La Paz,
60 miles distant, it is now in an extremely dilapidated condition.
The excavations of treasure seekers as well as of scientists have
also contributed to its ruin.

MONOLITHIC GATEWAY TIAHUANACO
]

INDIANS AT FESTIVAL—TIAHUANACO
]

About a quarter of a mile from the station is a construction,
generally regarded as a sacred enclosure, which has the form of a
rectangle, 388 by 445 feet, marked by granite blocks 15 feet apart
and 8 or 10 feet high, conspicuous objects on the brown plain,
reminding of Stonehenge. These monoliths are supposed to have been
part of a wall, the spaces between filled in with rough stones. A
temple may have stood within, but of this there are no remains. A
massive monolithic gateway, broken and apparently not in its
original position, may once have afforded entrance to the enclosure.
This great piece of stone, 13 feet wide, 7 feet above ground and 3
feet thick was probably fractured by an earthquake. The curious and
elaborate carvings on the upper part of one side have been variously
explained, but the interpretation endorsed by Sir Clements Markham,
long a profound student of Peruvian antiquities, is most highly
regarded. In the center is a human head supposed to represent the
creator of the universe Pachacámac or Viracocha, to which the other
figures, partly human and some with heads of condors, seem to offer
adoration. Three other constructions, one called the hall of
justice, are remarkable for their extent and for the cyclopean
masses of stone. There is abundant evidence of extraordinarily
skillful masonry and of excellence in sculpture. Many of the
enormous stones are unequaled in size in any other part of the world
save by the monoliths of Egypt and some near Cuzco. One stone 36
feet long and 7 wide weighs 170 tons. These have often ornamental
carving. A number of statues elaborately decorated have been found
here, one of which still stands upright within the enclosure. The
great age of these remains is unquestioned. One theory is that they
date from a period before the plateau was elevated to its present
position when it enjoyed a milder climate.

It is worth while to go over to the modern Indian village,
Tiahuanaco. On the plaza is a church, largely constructed of stones
taken from the ancient ruins. In front of the church are two ancient
and dilapidated statues, long since transported from their original
site. The interior of this small church is of extraordinary
magnificence, with elaborate gilt carvings, an altar of pure silver,
and some religious paintings of moderate excellence.

On the 16th of September elaborate festivities occur, when many
Indians appear in velvet or plush garments, blue, pink, or green,
embroidered with gold or silver, wearing masks, black, white, or
yellow, and elaborate feather head dresses. Pipes and drums, other
wind instruments, and wooden rattles make plenty of noise if not
music. Some men are dressed to represent devils, with horns and
tail; others, animals, as a sheep or a green turtle. The finest
suits cost each as much as $200 gold. At Sorata town a still more
elaborate festival occurs at the same period, lasting for four or
five days. Gorgeous feather head dresses may be seen, and fans which
could not be purchased for $75. The execution of the Inca Atahuallpa
is here represented with mourning by the Indians. These festivals
are all accompanied or concluded by drunken orgies. In La Paz,
August 15, 1903, occurred somewhat similar but milder festivities,
Indians in costume and dances.

=Sorata.= One who is fond of horseback riding and not afraid of a
little discomfort might, with from five to seven days to spare,
enjoy an expedition to the town of Sorata. This city of 8000 or
10,000 inhabitants is situated about a hundred miles north of La Paz
in a beautiful valley at the foot of the mountain of the same name,
better called by the euphonius Indian appellation, _Illampu_. In
1911 a diligence or covered wagon with four horses twice a week made
the trip by a fair road over the plain to Achacachi, perhaps 70
miles distant. The diligence sets out at a very early hour, six or
half past, making a rather long day. From Achacachi to Sorata town
it is a ride of from six to nine hours according to the animals
provided. These must be engaged in advance in La Paz and probably
sent ahead to meet one there, in which case it is obviously cheaper,
though more tiresome, to go on horseback all the way. If this method
of travel is decided upon, or indeed the other, an _arriero_ must be
engaged to provide saddle animals and to take care of them, being
paid somewhat in advance. Unless he receives a sum to bind the
bargain and to pay his preliminary expenses, whatever he may
promise, he is likely never to be seen again. But having accepted
money, he generally carries out the bargain, though a written
contract is desirable. An _arriero_ once agreed with me to furnish
four animals, two saddle, one of these for himself, and two baggage
animals for eight _bol._ a day for all, he paying the expenses for
his own food and the animals; but it might cost double that now.
Much depends on chance and ability at bargaining. If making the
journey on horseback one should at least take the early train to the
_alto_ arranging in advance for the animals to meet him above.
Setting out from there promptly, a good horseman with first-rate
animals might reach Guarina or even Achacachi the same evening and
from either place go on to Sorata the next day. Soon after leaving
the Alto Station all traces of life disappear save what is met upon
the road, Indians with llamas, burros, etc. The brown plain shows no
signs of cultivation, being thickly covered with stones. No village
or hut is passed for hours. But the great peaks seen from slowly
varying angles are a continual source of enjoyment. A splendid
imposing mountain, Huaina Potosí or Cacaaca, about 21,000 feet, with
tin mines on its lower slopes, affords an opportunity for a
difficult first ascent. The _tambo_, Cocuta, should be reached in
time for _almuerzo_; at the very least, Machacamarca for the night:
better Guarina, if possible. If one lodges at Machacamarca one must
spend the next night at Achacachi and go the third day to Sorata. It
is desirable, even necessary, to take blankets for the night, and to
provide in the _alforjas_ (saddle-bags), a supply of chocolate,
raisins, etc., perhaps canned meat and crackers. At Cocuta, and the
other places, meals are provided, soup, eggs, beefsteak, coarse
bread, and tea, but between Achacachi and Sorata there is no place
for luncheon; and some chocolate, etc., will come in very well the
first day. Except at Achacachi no bed will be found better than a
couch of adobe, but with blankets a hard bed is no harm. I have
heard dire tales of the insect life which infests some such places,
but in my own considerable experience, I never found anything worse
than fleas and not many of them. The immense snow fields of Illampu
come into view soon after leaving Cocuta. Before reaching Guarina
there are glimpses of Lake Titicaca. Between Achacachi and Sorata
the Huallata pass is crossed at a height of 14,000 feet. This is a
big buttress of Illampu, from the top of which one has a splendid
view of the enormous mountain _massif_ close at hand, with its
several summits all from this side seeming absolutely unclimbable.
Descending towards Sorata attention is divided between the
tremendous cliffs of Illampu on the right and the romantic Mapiri
Valley below. The town, _Sorata_, at an altitude of 8000 feet, has a
charmingly picturesque location on a terrace near the head of the
valley, among trees, shrubs, and fragrant flowers, in striking
contrast to the bare, bleak, brown plain above. On one side the grim
walls and glittering summits of Illampu rise nearly 14,000 feet (the
height of the mountain being over 21,000), contrasting sharply with
the bluish purple tints down the steeply enclosed gorge opposite. At
no distant day electric cars will cross the mountain ridge, and this
charming town will be regularly included in the fashionable tours of
South America. Sorata now has a fair hotel, as it is the
headquarters for several rubber companies which conduct the industry
on the lower eastern slope of the Andes, and for many miners who
seek placer deposits, or the veins above them, also on the eastern
side. Any one with the spirit of the explorer would find it a most
interesting trip to make the circuit of the mountain: not a
difficult task, but probably never yet accomplished by a white
person. To the mountaineer, Illampu still affords opportunity for a
splendid first ascent, Miss Peck in 1904 being obliged to turn back
in good weather and a fine condition of the mountain at about 20,500
feet simply because her companions refused to advance; while Conway
in 1898 retreated from a higher point on account of dangerous
conditions of the snow. With Swiss guides the ascent should be
easily made, or without them by experts like the conquerors of Mt.
McKinley, Parker and Browne.

Train from La Paz Wednesday at 4.15 p.m. arrives at Arica
Thursday, 1.40 p.m. Sleeping cars.

MT. ILLAMPU, 21,750 FT. FROM THE PLATEAU, 13,000 FT.
]

SORATA TOWN
]

=La Paz to Arica.= At La Paz, if not earlier, decision must be made
as to the route in leaving this remarkable city. At present two are
offered besides that by which we have come; one by Arica, the other
by Antofagasta. If one is averse to a long railroad journey and is
not eager to see other Bolivian cities, Oruro, Potosí, Cochabamba,
he will prefer the Arica road, 250 miles, by which trains were
expected to descend from La Paz in twelve hours to the sea, and the
upward journey was to occupy sixteen. On account of the steep grade,
the rack-rail system is employed on one stretch for a distance of 25
miles. To render harmless the rapid change in atmospheric pressure,
in ascending 14,000 feet in eight or ten hours, a special
car-chamber was planned to contain compressed air of the density at
sea level. The difference in temperatures is greater than by the
other routes. In winter it may be below O Far. at the summit, and a
few hours later at Arica it may be 86°, though probably less if
arriving at evening. Parlor and sleeping cars are provided and as
these are to be heated there should be no trouble on that score.
Having come up comfortably one is not likely to be troubled going
down. If inclined to see a mining town one may branch off to
Corocoro, six miles from the main line, a place of about 15,000
people, long famous for its mines of copper and tin. The copper
mines have been called the richest in South America. The lodes are
in a sandstone formation in fine grains through the matrix. After
grinding and concentration a product results, 85 per cent pure. The
Arica road has its own prolongation from Viacha to the Altos and
city of La Paz, by the route followed a distance of 22 miles.

=The Jamiraya Cañon.= To the traveler in search of novelty outside
the beaten track, and to the scientist, the route by way of Arica
affords a chance to visit one of nature’s wonders, the existence of
which is unknown to most Bolivians, as well as to the rest of the
world. This is a remarkable gorge called the Jamiraya Cañon, of
which I received definite information from two English scientists
who had just visited it. In the Lluta Valley some distance back of
Arica, it is a few miles south of the railway between km. 92 and 132
of the line. It is best visited from Arica on account of the
necessity for arranging in advance to be met by animals at the
station Moleno, the terminus of a branch line 54 kms. from Arica.
The first bivouac may be made in Cata 27 kms. distant, from which
point a day’s ride with a steep climb will lead to Socoroma, where
night’s lodging may be obtained at the village store. From here one
may ride down into the cañon at Jamiraya or to Ancolacalla,
returning after a night or two at the bottom. Both places are
desirable to visit, but it is a day’s journey from one to the other,
as it is necessary to go to the top and come down again. The finer
scenery is at Ancolacalla near which is a beautiful waterfall. It is
said that the walls of the cañon rival if they do not surpass those
of the Yosemite, being six or seven thousand feet in height, often
very steep, the angle varying from 45 to 90°. At the bottom the
cañon in places is but two or three meters wide, and at the top from
a few hundred feet to possibly a mile. At Jamiraya the ruins of huts
add a peculiar interest. The walls, which are of varied and
beautiful colors, are chiefly volcanic rock, with some granite on
the floor. _Water should be carried_, as that at the bottom of the
gorge is bad. Few covers are needed as in the depths the weather is
warm.

=Other Bolivian Cities.= If more time can be allotted to Bolivia, a
week or two may be agreeably spent in visiting the cities of
Cochabamba, Potosí, and even Sucre, though that is more remote. The
newly constructed railway 125 miles in length, if now open from
Oruro to Cochabamba, will make the latter easily accessible. This,
called the Garden City of Bolivia, was founded in 1574 in a
beautiful valley on the east side of the mountains, here called the
Royal Range. Much wealth, culture, and refinement is here manifest,
as well as in Sucre, though both cities have been so remote from the
rest of the world.

=Cochabamba= with its suburbs has a population of 40,000 or more; it
boasts of six pretty plazas, adorned with trees and flowers, and an
_Alameda_ with five divisions, a fashionable driveway. There are
handsome public buildings and churches; but the scenery and climate
are the chief attractions, and a complete recompense for the railway
journey from Oruro.

=Potosí=, a name much more familiar on account of the almost
fabulous wealth of which it has been the source, deserves a visit on
very different grounds. Not for its delightful climate, smiling
skies, and surroundings of placid beauty, but for its historic
associations, the remains of colonial grandeur, and for its
impressive if more gloomy scenery. From Rio Mulato, 130 miles beyond
Oruro, a railway has been recently built to this ancient city 105
miles distant. In 1545 it was founded, after the discovery of the
wonderful silver mines, which according to a moderate estimate have
yielded about four billion dollars, another writer says one billion,
up to the present time. It is related that one man paid no less than
fifteen million dollars as tax on the production of his mine,
one-fifth being supposed to go to the crown. It is said that 7000
mines have been opened in the Cerro, the hill back of the town, 700
of which are being worked for silver and tin today. Great
extravagance naturally accompanied the production of great wealth,
and many stories are told of the expenditure and display of riches
in the early period. At one time the city had a population of
150,000, now dwindled to about 25,000. It contains many interesting
ruins of colonial palaces and churches, including a finely carved
tower of the old Jesuit church, notable carved doorways of San
Lorenzo, the palace of Don José de Quiroz, and others. The Plaza
Pichincha contains a handsome monument to the Independence, and is
bordered by several public buildings, the City Hall, and the
Pichincha College. A Public Library and Museum are of interest,
still more the great Casa de Moneda or Mint covering two blocks.

A visit to the top of the famous Cerro may be made on horseback. A
splendid view is enjoyed from the summit. Of extreme interest are
the great artificial lakes on the slopes, built by the Spaniards to
furnish a constant water supply for the working of the mines. The
construction of the thirty-two lakes consumed nearly fifty years,
the largest being 3 miles in circumference and about 30 feet deep.
Two of them are at an altitude of 16,000 feet. Each is surrounded by
five sets of walls, all together about 30 or 40 feet thick. The
mines are by no means exhausted and with the opening of the railway,
mining operations will doubtless be largely increased.

=Sucre.= A coach road 100 miles long leads from Potosí to Sucre, the
nominal capital of the Republic, which will soon be connected by
rail with the region of the west. The city, pleasantly located among
the hills at an altitude of 10,000 feet, is noted for its fine
climate which must certainly seem agreeable to a resident of the
plateau above. In fact many of the wealthy mine owners of Potosí in
former days, if not at the present time, made their homes here,
where life is much more enjoyable. Made the capital of Bolivia in
1826 it still has the name, though now it is the seat only of the
Supreme Court and of the Archiepiscopal See; the Legislative and
Executive Departments of Government being at La Paz. The Legislative
Palace of Sucre with handsomely decorated halls still remains, there
is a stately new Government Palace, a Palace of Justice, the
University of San Francisco Xavier, and other important buildings.
Among the churches, the Metropolitan Cathedral is the richest in
Bolivia. The Virgin of Guadalupe, an image of solid gold, with its
rich adornment of jewels, is said to be worth a million. Among the
nine plazas, that of the 25 de Mayo has a special mark of
distinction in the fact that it has two streams, one on each side,
one of which flowing northward joins the Mamoré so reaching the
Amazon, while the other turning southeast goes on to the Pilcomayo
and at last to the estuary of La Plata.

One who sees only the plateau region of Bolivia knows but a small
part of the country; the section east of the Andes, now becoming
accessible, is far more attractive and within a half century may
have the larger part of the population.

=From La Paz to Antofagasta.= The remaining route from La Paz to the
sea will be followed by those who have visited any of the three
cities last mentioned, the old road by way of Oruro to the southern
port, Antofagasta, though not until 1908 was the railway opened
between Oruro and Viacha. Many in the past have groaned over the
journey which formerly involved two days by diligence to Oruro and
three by rail to Antofagasta, but since the introduction of sleeping
cars on the old section and the completion of the new the trip may
be made in comfort and even with pleasure in 48 hours. Within the
year the road has been prolonged from Viacha down to La Paz, another
great improvement.

Except for the fine view of Illimani on the left in the early part
of the journey, the ride to Oruro is of no great interest. Some tall
mud built piers may excite curiosity: a few remaining from those
erected three centuries ago which formerly, it is said, marked the
entire route from Lima to Potosí. Before reaching Oruro, a ride of
about seven hours, a snow-crowned volcanic peak may be seen at the
southeast, Sajama, with an alleged altitude of 22,700 feet. A
possibility, is therefore presented of its overtopping Aconcagua, or
like Coropuna turning out 1000 feet lower.

INDIANS TRANSPORTING FREIGHT
]

PLAZA AND GOVERNMENT PALACE, ORURO
]

At a station called _Patacamaya_ a halt is made for _almuerzo_.
Strange to say, the restaurant, where a fair meal is served, is kept
by an American and his wife who have been living there about twenty
years. The gentleman remarked that he was contented, doing well, and
had no desire to return to the States. Fortunate it is that all have
not the same tastes, some enjoying the warm tropics, some the
desert, some the cool plateau, some happy only in large cities, and
others whom the solitary places please. Many who go down to engage
in railroad construction, to work in mines or smelter, or even to
fill office positions in cities, soon become tired and return;
others are fascinated with the life, being successful, and persons
of more importance than they would be at home, and they are glad to
settle permanently in those countries.

=Oruro= is an important mining town of about 20,000 people, with a
very good hotel, the _Unión_, facing the pretty Plaza. Arriving on
Wednesday or Saturday at Oruro, one may the same evening at 7.30
take the express train for Antofagasta, a ride of 36 hours. The
plateau seems rather dreary and only those who have an interest in
mining matters will care to stay over. The various mines on the
outskirts of the city produce both silver and tin. There are many
foreign residents with several clubs and life is not so dismal as
may at first glance appear, although the climate at this altitude of
12,500 feet in the exposed position on the plain is a trifle raw.
The Government Palace and the University building face the Plaza,
and the city boasts of a theater, a public library and a
mineralogical museum, as well as the usual churches, hospitals, and
schools. Oruro was noted during the colonial period as next to
Potosí in the richness and production of its mines and in 1678 is
said to have had 76,000 inhabitants. In the immediate vicinity are
half a dozen mines, formerly great silver producers, but now worked
chiefly though not entirely for tin. The San José mine, two miles
from the town, several years ago was yielding $55,000 a month in tin
and silver. It is an interesting place to visit, employing 1000 or
more people and equipped with the best of modern machinery. There
are workings 1000 feet deep. The Socavón de la Virgen, nearer the
city, is one of the oldest of Bolivia. In all four provinces of this
Department are rich tin mines. The ore is treated by grinding and
concentration, the product exported averaging about 64 per cent tin.
Copper also is found, and farther south borax, and metals of almost
every kind.

For the through journey to Antofagasta, staterooms should be engaged
in advance at La Paz and in the best possible car; as I was informed
that there was considerable difference. Some persons complain about
everything and I had heard much of the discomfort of the journey.
But the accommodations which I enjoyed were decidedly superior to
those of an ordinary Pullman and I never experienced a more
comfortable railway ride. The road is of very narrow gauge, 2½ feet,
so that an aisle passes along one side of the car with staterooms in
a row on the other. In these the berths are not crosswise of the car
as in Argentina but lengthwise. My room had two very comfortable
leather-covered armchairs, facing each other, on which the berth was
later arranged with none above it. A wash-basin with running water
was at the side, a small mirror, and several nails on which to hang
clothing. In a dining car good meals, dinner and _almuerzo_ were
served at a fair price, morning coffee in one’s own stateroom.
Traveling from Oruro at night one misses the sight of Lake Poopo.
Poopo is a curious shallow, salt, and turbid lake with no visible
outlet, fed by the Desaguadero River from Lake Titicaca. Although 24
by 53 miles in extent it is at most but 9 feet deep, often less than
5, and seems to be shrinking. In this dry air and strong sunshine
the water may in time disappear, leaving only a bed of salt. Uyuni,
from which the railway is now being continued to Tupiza, 125 miles
beyond on the Pan American route to Argentina, is also passed in the
night. From Tupiza it is hardly 60 miles to La Quiaca which was
reached by the Argentine Railway several years ago. A few miles from
Uyuni are the Pulacayo and Huanchaca mines which have produced
within the last quarter century about 5000 tons of silver, thus
taking rank as the second silver district in the world (the first is
Broken Bow, Australia). Electricity is here the motor power; Corliss
engines render service; several thousand men and women are employed,
the latter sorting ore with wonderful accuracy. The day following is
spent among the desert mountains. The hills are red, yellow, white,
and gray, dotted with black cinders. Volcanoes are numerous, mostly
extinct but showing perfect cones against the blue of the sky. Large
level sheets of saline material are frequent. Some jagged hills have
streaks, blood-red or chrome-yellow. The volcano San Pedro, 17,170
feet may be smoking. From a smaller cone, Poruña, at its side,
stretches a great stream of lava, like a glacier, half a mile wide
and several long, through which in a cutting the railroad passes.
Just before dark, close to the Conchi station, the train crosses a
viaduct 336 feet above the Loa River, more than twice as high as the
celebrated Forth Bridge. It is a graceful steel structure with six
lattice girder spans of 80 feet each, on steel towers. Early the
second morning one arrives at Antofagasta.

------------------------------------------------------------------------