Chapter XII: The Southern Railway—cuzco

A tri-weekly train is now scheduled from Arequipa up over the
mountains, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; the Wednesday only
connects with an express to Cuzco. These trains, are provided with
buffet chair cars, which make the long journey less wearisome.
Persons who have suffered _slight_ inconvenience on the trip to
Oroya need not fear a repetition of unpleasant symptoms on this
journey, the stay of a few days at Arequipa making the change in
atmospheric pressure more gradual; also a second experience is
generally less trying, and the top of the southern pass, 14,666
feet, is 1000 feet lower than that on the Central Railroad.

The scenery between Arequipa and Juliaca presents far less of
grandeur than is witnessed on the Oroya road, though for a time it
should keep the attention. The white city with the deep green of the
Chili Valley, and graceful Misti with its more rugged sisters on
either hand, for a half hour form a delightful picture, as the track
winds along down, and later begins to climb around the other end of
Chachani. The dry and channeled slopes of this mountain, the desert
of volcanic sand and lava rock for a while may interest, but there
is a good deal of sameness to the view, somewhat enlivened by two
distant splendid snowclad _massifs_, Amfato and Coropuna.

The _Baths of Yura_, an hour from Arequipa, are invisible from its
station: a glimpse of the green cañon may be had later. Presently
Chachani and Misti are seen from the rear, appearing considerably
lower from the increased elevation. On the Pampa de Arrieros, a
bleak, grass-covered plateau, the highest point of the divide is
passed at Crucero Alto. Beyond is the breakfast station, Lagunillas,
near which among the graceful rounded hills are two romantic lakes,
Saracocha, and Cachipascana, one on each side of the track. In spite
of these and the lines of beauty in the contour of the hills, the
plateau is rather dreary: to live happily at any of these stations,
one must needs be a true lover of solitude. With good fortune one
may descry in the distance a few vicuñas, cousin to the llama, but
with much finer wool, often called fur, of a tawny shade, as light
in weight as chinchilla; perhaps a drove of the almost equally rare
alpacas; the former in a wild state, the latter under care and
cultivation.

=Juliaca=, the junction, is a busy place, always thronged with
Indians and a scattering of white people. From here to Puno the
train is generally crowded; but if on the way to Cuzco, you will not
mind, as this is the junction where the roads divide. Probably you
must descend here to spend the night. Passing through the station on
the right of the track, you will find a plaza, on the left side of
which is a hotel providing clean beds and enough to eat, with no
display of elegance. The next morning at 9.15 you may set out for
Cuzco, if Thursday arriving there at 7.40 p.m. If Tuesday or
Saturday it will be necessary to spend a night at Sicuani, the
journey by slow train consuming two days.

At Juliaca are many men and women, venders of a great variety of
foods and of merchandise. Many others will be seen at the stations
on the road to Cuzco, women wearing odd stiff hats, flat as the
proverbial pancake, short skirts, and shawls, men with short
trousers and ponchos. Pottery in curious shapes, jars, water
bottles, and ornaments may be purchased, match safes, tooth-pick
holders, etc. The Indians are industrious, generally occupied with
spinning, even while walking and carrying on the back heavy burdens.

=Tirapata=, where there may be a pause of twenty minutes for
breakfast, is a place of considerable importance, headquarters for
the Inca Mining and Rubber Companies, where their wagon road begins
towards the Santo Domingo gold mines, their mining property at an
altitude of 7000 feet, and their rubber lands beyond. Eight thousand
acres of land were presented by the Government to this company for
every mile of road opened to traffic; and one was made across the
plateau northeasterly, as far as the mountains. Over the Aricoma
Pass, 16,500 feet, and down the steep slopes through ravines and
gorges on the other side, a trail for mules is still the only
pathway. Recently a concession has been granted to the Peruvian
Corporation to build a railroad from Tirapata or from Urcos to
navigation on the Madre de Dios, not to really deep water, but to a
point accessible to boats of two feet draught, perhaps at
Tahuantinsuyo. This is likely to be the third or fourth important
route across Peru from the Pacific to navigation on a tributary of
the Amazon.

=La Raya=, the highest point between Juliaca and Cuzco, with an
altitude of 14,150 feet, is on the dividing line of the watershed
between the Amazon system and that of Lake Titicaca. Here is the
knot of _Vilcanota_ where the Coast and the Eastern Cordilleras
unite, and where the sacred river, Vilcamayu, takes its origin in a
little sacred lake lying at the foot of a snowy peak visible from
Cuzco. Now, leaving the bleak plateau region, the train descends the
Vilcamayu Valley to a milder region.

=Sicuani=, 2500 feet below, the most important place along the road,
was for some years the terminus of the railway line. It boasts
therefore of a good hotel, the Lafayette. Here the night was
formerly spent, the remainder of the journey to Cuzco being by
diligence, certainly an advantage as far as enjoying the scenery is
concerned. The Sicuani market place is noted for its extraordinarily
picturesque appearance, the Indians coming for miles around to make
their purchases, largely by barter. Journeying by accommodation
train, which has some advantages, one spends the night here and
arrives the next afternoon in Cuzco.

The train passes many historic sites and ancient ruins, just out of
view the famed Lake Urcos into which, the story goes, was thrown the
wonderful gold chain of the Prince Huascar. This was said to be long
enough to encircle the great plaza of Cuzco, with each link weighing
100 lbs. Projects have been formed to drain this lake in the hope of
finding here much ancient treasure, but though small the lake is
very deep and no real effort has been made.

CUZCO

At last the railroad leaves the main valley to follow up a tributary
on the left, the Huatanay. At the head of this side valley, it
reaches the ancient city of Cuzco, once the metropolis of a vast
realm surpassed in extent or in wealth by few in the world’s
history, probably equaled by none in the number of people living,
contented and peaceful, under a single sway.

From the station half a mile from the center of the city, an
attractive boulevard is being laid out, on which a tram car runs to
the central plaza, or by this time electrics. Carriages too may
serve and boys are eager to carry hand baggage. The hotels, alas!
leave much to be desired. Slow, indeed, are the people to realize
the necessities which _must_ be supplied if the town is to advance,
to attract tourists and business men. The residents have not seemed
to care whether there was progress or not, but the Central
Government is interested, the Prefect who comes from Lima is
endeavoring to work a revolution, and the cultivated inhabitants
have begun to realize their condition and to remedy the evils which
have long been a reproach.

=The Hotel Comercio= may be endured for a night or two, since it is
in a very worthy cause. The other hotel, the _Royal_, is no better.
Another, the _Central_, is spoken of, opposite the church, La
Merced. One does not go to Cuzco for the luxuries of New York or
Paris, but if unhappy without these he must postpone this part of
the journey a while longer. One writer says that the Comercio
affords reasonably good meals and decent bedrooms. Other opinions
are less favorable, but conditions may have improved by now. On the
spur of a hill which closes the head of the valley, at an altitude
of 11,500 feet, is situated the ancient imperial city. Some
knowledge of the history of its rulers, the greatness of its domain,
the development of its civilization, the magnificence of its
temples, the power and riches of its princes, and the terrible
tragedy of their downfall gives a keener interest to the massive
ruins, the delightful prospect, and to everything in this remote
valley which is connected with the unique and wonderful empire of
world-wide and immortal fame. At the time of its capture, four
centuries ago, few if any cities in the world could rival Cuzco in
the magnificence of its temples, and their treasures of gold and
silver, and none in the massive fortifications and other
constructions of which the remains are still a marvel.

In the history of this ancient city there are at least four periods:
the prac-Inca age; the glorious epoch of the Inca dynasty; the
merciless, mournful days of bloodshed and destruction, followed by
the brilliant reconstruction and the relentless rule of the Spanish
invaders; and the slow progress of the modern republic. From the
earliest period date the megalithic ruins of Sacsahuaman and
elsewhere, regarded as belonging to the same age as those of
Tiahuanaco and a few other places, their origin alike involved in
mystery. Sir Clements Markham, the most careful student of this
early civilization, believes it to be an indigenous growth of great
antiquity, though there is a tradition of an early outside influence
from the south.

The great empire of the Incas was of comparatively short duration;
according to commonly accepted tradition, it existed for about four
centuries. The most current and approved legend of the Incas’ origin
is that they were the children of the Sun, who pitying the sad
condition of his creatures sent to their aid two of his offspring,
Manco Ccapac and Mama Oclla, brother and sister, also husband and
wife. These first appearing on the Island of the Sun in Lake
Titicaca thence came to Cuzco and established their dominion. Manco
seems to have been a great and wise ruler, probably of Quichua
origin, and to have lived in the twelfth century. His successor
Sinchi Rocca was a peaceful ruler, but the third Inca, Lloque
Yupanqui, subjugated some of the neighboring peoples. The fourth,
Maita Ccapac, was a greater warrior, extending his kingdom over most
of Bolivia, and to Arequipa and Moquegua. The fifth Inca, Ccapac
Yupanqui, who was called avaricious, employed his reign in subduing
insurrections in regions already conquered. His successor, Inca
Rocca, was an eminent warrior and statesman, who built great
palaces, founded schools for the education of the nobility, and made
strict laws for the welfare and protection of the people, with
severe punishment, even death, to murderers, incendiaries, and
thieves.

The seventh Inca, Titu Cusi Hualpa, was less successful. An invasion
by the tribes of Chinchasuyo caused him to flee in alarm, but his
son, collecting an army, defeated the invaders and was then crowned,
with the name of Viracocha. During his reign eleven provinces were
added to the empire, and a magnificent temple was erected twenty
miles south of Cuzco with an altar to Viracocha, a deity who had
appeared to the prince to warn him of the coming invasion, informing
him that _he_ was the creator of man, the world, the sun, and all
else. A remarkable engineering feat of this reign was the
construction of an irrigating canal nearly four hundred miles long
and twelve feet deep to convert some plains below into green pasture
lands. The eldest son of Viracocha, who was of small account, was
presently succeeded by his brother Pachacutec who brought still
greater glory to the empire. With the excellent armies organized by
Pachacutec, his son Tupac Yupanqui made conquests along the coast
from Pisco north including Pachacámac, the realm of the Grand Chimu
near Trujillo, and the valley of Cajamarca. These cities were not
destroyed, but were left under the dominion of their former rulers
as vassals to the Inca, the worship of the Sun being associated with
their former religion; but the learning and use of the Quichua
language was made compulsory. Every government official and soldier
was obliged to speak this language.

After the death of Pachacutec at the age of eighty, his son Tupac
Yupanqui, the tenth Inca, conquered Chile as far as the Maule River
and spent three years in a tour to the various parts of his empire.
Some uncertainty exists about an Inca Yupanqui, but a younger son of
Tupac called Huayna Ccapac, near the close of his father’s reign,
carried still farther the conquests even to Quito, which he won from
its king. His reign was one of wisdom until its close. The rightful
heir Huascar, son of the Coya or Queen, had a rival in his father’s
affections, a younger son, Atahuallpa, of another, Pacha. Having
himself retired to Quito before his death, Huayna Ccapac left that
province to his son Atahuallpa, and the throne of Cuzco to Huascar.
Thus happened the division, so disastrous to the Inca dynasty,
possibly altering in some measure the whole of Peruvian history.

The location of Cuzco is said to be more beautiful than that of
Quito or Bogotá, both of world-wide fame. Rome, Athens, and Sparta,
in the opinion of many, present less charming scenes than that which
is outspread before the observer on Sacsahuaman. Yet how altered
from the days of its glory! Then the hills around, fertilized with
guano and small fish and irrigated throughout their entire extent,
were terraced and cultivated to their summits. Then the city and its
suburbs are said to have contained 400,000 souls. The gates of the
walled enclosure were of colored marble. Within were great palaces,
their walls painted in bright colors.

The _Temple of the Sun_ was covered with a roof of gold. In the
gardens around were artificial flowers of gold and silver, figures
of animals large and small, wild and domestic, of herbs, plants, and
trees; a field of maize, fruit trees, images of men, women, and
children. The doors were covered with gold plate. A gold cornice
more than a yard deep, around the building, did not remain long in
place after the occupation by the Spaniards. The golden roof had
been removed previous to their arrival. This sumptuous temple called
Coricancha, Place of Gold, begun by the first Inca, Manco Ccapac,
was not concluded for many generations until the time of Inca
Yupanqui, each Inca in the meantime contributing a share towards the
completion of the great work. The form of the temple was elliptical,
and opposite the entrance where the rays of the rising sun would
fall upon it was a gold effigy representing the Sun. Golden rays
projected from his head so that the entire creation occupied one
side of the temple. When the sun’s rays fell upon the figure the
effect was indeed dazzling, lighting up the place with such radiance
that the Indian Nobles, who alone were permitted to enter,
prostrated themselves, striking their foreheads on the pavement. The
only women allowed within the temple were the wife and daughters of
the ruling Inca. On each side of the deity were arranged the dead
mummified bodies of the Incas, clad in royal robes, seated upon
golden thrones, with eyes downcast and hands folded across their
breasts. One only, Huayna Ccapac, faced the god, one story says
because he was the best loved, another, because he dared to gaze at
the sun and show that this luminary was not the creative lord.

Beyond this, the chief holy place of the temple, was a rectangular
cloister with five square chapels around. One dedicated to the Moon
contained a silver image of a woman’s face. In this chapel were
arranged the bodies of the Queens called Coyas, as were the Incas in
the chamber of the Sun. The next hall, its ceiling covered with
silver stars, was dedicated to the Stars; the third, adorned with
gold, was to Thunder and Lightning. Next came the hall of the
Rainbow with colored delineations on gold plate, and finally a hall
covered with gold where the priests gave audience. Many jewels,
emeralds and turquoise, were set in the mouldings of gold. The
bodies of the Incas were removed before the coming of the invaders,
but in 1559 five were discovered and subsequently carried to Lima,
where they were buried in the patio of the San Andres hospital. Four
streets which led to the temple of the Sun are now called Carcel,
Loreto, Santa Catalina, and San Augustín.

Near by, where now is the convent of Santa Catalina, was the House
of the Virgins, who, like the Vestals at Rome, fed the sacred fire.
Of these there were 1500 or more, some from Cuzco of royal lineage,
others from the provinces, selected for their beauty from those of
high birth. They spun and wove the clothing of the Inca and his
Queen and had various other duties. Their dishes and utensils were
of gold. They entered the convent before they were eight years of
age and here, vowed to chastity, they spent their lives. This
building was 200 by 800 feet.

Each Inca built for himself a great palace, and above were the
wonderful fortifications of Sacsahuaman. West of the town is a place
called Huaca-puncu, Holy Gate, which is approached by a steep
street. At a certain spot every Indian paused to look back or
forward, this being the first or last point from which could be seen
the Temple of the Sun. And still today, as four centuries ago, the
Indians continue this ancient custom.

CATHEDRAL PLAZA, MATRÍZ
]

ANCIENT WALL
]

The visitor may first stroll about the modern city, which should
occupy him for a day or more, and then turn to the ruins above. A
short distance east of the Hotel Comercio is a larger plaza called
the _Matríz_, which with the other two, the _Regocijo_ and the _San
Francisco_, in ancient days formed a huge single plaza, the scene of
many great festivals, its periphery the measure of Huascar’s gold
chain. First to attract observation is the imposing _Cathedral_,
regarded as third in splendor in the New World, following those of
Mexico and Lima. Begun in 1560, later than that in Lima, it was
earlier finished, in 1654. One writer calls it the most perfect
example of colonial architecture existing. It has the usual three
doors and naves, with two rows of Corinthian columns carved, in
front only, to their base. Built of stone in the Renaissance style,
the cost of the cathedral was so great that one of the Viceroys
remarked that it would have been less expensive in silver. The choir
in the central nave is of superb carving, the high altar in front is
covered with silver. Two fine organs provide music. There are many
paintings, one attributed to Van Dyck, El Señor de la Agonia.
Portraits of the Popes and of all the bishops of Cuzco are contained
in the sacristy. A monstrance ornamented with diamonds, pearls,
rubies, etc., is one of the most valuable possessions. On the right
of the Cathedral is the Chapel of the Sacred Heart, on the left, the
Chapel of Triumph. In front of the Cathedral which, with the Chapel
of Triumph, occupies the site of the palace of Viracocha stood a
round tower.

Especial heed should be given to the tone of the Cathedral bell,
called one of the richest in the world. It is styled the Maria
Angola from the name of a pious lady who presented 300 lbs. weight
of gold to be used in its casting. The great bell, which is large
enough to cover eight men, was made in Cuzco in 1659, so heavy that
an inclined plane was built to hoist it to the tower and many men
were required for the task. It is said that the bell may be heard
for a distance of 25 miles, and that its rich tones, due to the
large amount of gold in its composition, are especially inclined to
awaken a spirit of reverence.

On the south side of the Plaza will be noticed the Church of the
Compañia, the Jesuits’, standing on the site of one of the later
Inca palaces, that of Huayna Ccapac, father of Atahuallpa and
Huascar. This church, one of the finest in Cuzco, is cruciform in
shape with a single broad nave and a large dome at the intersection
of the transverse aisles. Pillars both round and square support the
fine arches of the church.

On the corner of Loreto calle, nearer to the Cathedral, was once the
palace of the Inca Yupanqui, some distance back of which was that of
Inca Tupac Yupanqui. At the farther corner, also of the south side,
was the palace of Huascar beyond the calle de la Carcel which led
down to the Temple of the Sun, now built over by the church and
convent of Santo Domingo. The church is not so fine as some of the
others, but deserves a visit on account of the historical
associations, the altar now occupying the position formerly sacred
to the Sun god. The exceptional oval wall behind the altar should be
noted, indicating the elliptical form of the ancient structure. The
cloister has a finely carved stone archway, and columns around a
patio of the convent, which was one of the earliest Spanish edifices
in Peru.

The convent of Santa Catalina close by is on the site of the ancient
House of the Virgins.

On the north side of the Plaza were the palace of the Inca Rocca,
next the Cassama or House of Freezing, the magnificence of which was
supposed to stiffen the beholder with admiration, and then the
palace of Inca Pachacutec. The walls of the ancient structures were
used for the lower floors of Spanish dwellings and a second story
with balconies was added above. Here are now houses and shops with
arched arcades in front, much as in the time of Garcilasso de la
Vega, a boy at the time of the Conquest. The palace of Pachacutec,
the Inca legislator, is the residence, according to Fuentes, of C.
Gonzales Martinez, calle del Triunfo No. 78. On this street is the
famous great stone with twelve angles. At No. 116 on this street,
the house of Señora Juana Arinibar, was, says Fuentes, the palace of
Yupanqui. Francisco Pizarro once occupied the mansion now the
residence of the Prefect; his brother Gonzalo, a house in the
_portal_ Harinas.

While the great Plaza of Cuzco in the days of the Incas must have
been the scene of many joyous, marvellously brilliant and sumptuous
festivities, in violent contrast after the Conquest it witnessed the
most terrible tragedies. Here in 1571 the youthful Inca, Tupac
Amaru, was beheaded in the presence of a vast crowd of Indians. For
a moment the hand of the executioner was stayed by the wail of
horror that arose, but the ruthless Viceroy Toledo would grant no
mercy. The head of Tupac was set up on a pike. In the middle of the
night, a Spaniard looking from his window was amazed to see the
entire Plaza filled with kneeling Indians, in silent veneration
before the last of their rulers. Next day the head was removed and
buried. Two hundred years later, in 1781, a greater atrocity was
committed. Another of the same name who had led in revolt his
kinsmen, suffering from the inhuman exactions of their rulers, was
here compelled to witness the torture and execution of his wife and
other relatives. Then after having his tongue cut out, he was torn
limb from limb by four horses. It is small wonder that the Quichuas
appear of a stolid, melancholy disposition.

The church of La Merced should be visited, especially to observe the
fine cloister with its admirable arches, columns, and staircase, as
also because here are the remains of the old warrior Almagro and the
brothers, Juan and Gonzalo Pizarro.

Above the city, slopes toward the north a steep hill between two
gorges, the Huatanay on the east and the Tulumayu on the west,
crowned with the world renowned fortress of Sacsahuaman. A long half
day at the least is needed to investigate this and other ruins
above. Many, with a whole day to spare, will find it delightful,
setting out early with a luncheon, to linger above until the shadows
begin to fall.

One may go on foot or horseback (it may be a mule) according to his
taste and ability. An extremely athletic gentleman says the climb is
best done on a mule. Certainly it is better for one not fond of
walking, but to a good pedestrian the walk is no hardship. Turning
to the right on the calle Triunfo one will pass a great wall
containing the famous stone with twelve angles into which other
stones are beautifully fitted. This method of construction is
characteristic. They did not trouble to make rectangular blocks of a
fixed size, but utilized stones both large and small of various
shapes, and fitted them perfectly to each other. In some cases the
joining is so fine that the thinnest knife cannot be inserted. Nor
was mortar used in the construction. How their wonderful work was
accomplished without tools of steel or other metal remains a
mystery. There is a legend that they knew of a plant the juices of
which in some magical manner softened the stone so that it could
easily be rubbed into the required shape. This great wall perhaps
enclosed the palace of Manco Ccapac, the first Inca, of which some
remains are above. Still higher, on a terrace back of this palace,
was the Garden of the Sun which was yearly the first to be
cultivated. Markham calls this the most lovely and the saddest spot
in Peru. Beyond the calle Triunfo, to one climbing the hill along
the edge of the gorge, scenes of beauty are continually revealed as
one pauses to rest and look about him. The great fortress on the
hilltop was so difficult of access that in the greater part of its
circumference a single wall sufficed; but to the northeast or rear,
as regarded from the city, the approach was gradual. On that side
for a distance of 330 yards, were constructed three great parallel
walls which had 21 advancing and re-entrant angles, so that every
point could be enfiladed. These walls, which may be called
Cyclopean, are said to contain stones surpassing in size any found
in ancient Mykenae or other Greek strongholds. One of the largest
stones weighs about 36 tons. They are of limestone brought from
quarries three-quarters of a mile away, though other writers state
that they came from a distance of 5 and 15 leagues. One 30 feet long
is said by one writer to weigh 160 tons. The most perfectly planned
fortress ever built is the extraordinary tribute which this work has
received. Against what people such a stronghold was required is a
mystery. The lowest of the three walls was 27 feet high, the second
was 18, and the uppermost 14; on the inside, the parapet was breast
high. Between each two walls there was a space of 25 to 30 feet. In
each wall near the center was a gate which could be raised. There is
a story of a tired stone which was left on the road and wept blood
at being unable to reach the fortress. It is related that this
stone, being dragged by 20,000 Indians, half in front with stout
cables and half behind, slipped back down the hill killing several
thousand, and thus it wept blood.

At the top of the hill in a triangular space within the enclosure
were three strong towers. The central tower, circular in shape,
contained a fountain with water brought from some distance. The
walls of the tower were decorated with birds and animals of gold and
silver. Here kings were lodged who came to pay a visit. From the
parapet the Inca prince, Cahuide, overcome in a final struggle,
plunged to his death. The other two towers which were square
provided lodgings for soldiers. They had equal space underground
with subterranean passages forming a labyrinth for which a skein of
wool was needed as a guide. There were no arches, but corbels with
long stones laid across. One of these towers was the last to be
defended by the Inca subjects against the Spanish. The invaders soon
dismantled the colossal Sacsahuaman fortress for material to
construct their dwellings, perhaps also to impair its strength as a
refuge in case of insurrection. Impressive are these great walls,
and the ruins beyond in a vast solitude where no habitation is in
sight, perhaps no human being. A little plain lies between
Sacsahuaman and a hill called Rodadero, once partly walled. Here are
curious masses of rock which look as if children or older persons
had slidden over them for ages. Some believe that the white rock
solidified in this form, others that the ridges were artificially
cut, and still others that they have been worn as above indicated.
Certain it is that youths on feast days or as they have opportunity
still take pleasure in the pastime of sliding. A little farther on,
carved in the solid rock, is a seat called the Inca’s throne, where
he may have sat to watch his people at their sports and dances, or
to review his troops, or alone in state to contemplate his dominions
and the setting sun. Very near is a stone in which there is a
channel ten inches wide and over which is a little bridge, thought
to be a place of libation. It is said that chicha is thus offered
here today. Two caves may be seen close by, a small one of
labyrinthine character, with entrance three feet high.

Somewhat east of the Rodadero is another rock formation with large
double perfectly level stairs with a small landing at the top. By
some this is regarded as the true Inca seat. All about, carved in
the living rock are niches, benches, and seats of every kind and
shape.

From Cuzco a delightful excursion may be made to visit other ruins
in the Urubamba Valley, delightful that is to those who do not
object to riding on a mule over difficult if not dangerous trails,
or sleeping on floor or table, with a rather poor food supply.
Temporary discomfort will, however, be most highly rewarded to the
lover of romantic scenery as well as to the tourist of archæological
tastes. One may go up over the hills back of Cuzco direct to Yucay
or to Urubamba, and the next day arrive at Ollantaytambo.

These ruins of Ollantaytambo in the valley of the Urubamba River, at
the entrance of a side ravine, have long been known as those of a
great fortress or fortified palace arranged on several terraces; the
first plateau 300 feet from the floor of the valley. Here are
immense stone slabs, polygonal walls with recesses for household
gods, a circle or pillar called a Intihuatana for observing the
equinox, and other remains in a valley of wonderful beauty. The
story of the Tired Stone is also connected with this place. Farther
down, about 60 miles northwest of Cuzco, are the still more
wonderful remains of Machu Picchu, recently brought to the knowledge
of the world by Professor Hiram Bingham and described in the April,
1913, number of the National Geographic Magazine. This is thought to
have been a city of refuge of earlier date than Cuzco, a large
walled settlement 2000 feet above the bottom of the valley and 7000
feet above the sea. The Spaniards appear never to have reached this
point, hence the ruins are in a remarkable state of preservation.
Here are terraces, many houses, fountains, towers, 100 staircases,
and beautiful walls of rectangular stones. The valley itself with
its steep rugged walls, its luxuriant vegetation, and its views of
snowclad mountains is one of incomparable loveliness.

Nearer to Cuzco are ruins previously known and easily accessible, at
Yucay palaces and baths, and still higher up the valley the
fortress, palace, and rock tombs of Pisac; all of these in the same
valley, that of the River Vilcamayu or Vilcanota, as it is called in
the upper part, below becoming the Urubamba, then, on uniting with
the Apurimac, the Ucayali, which with the Marañon forms the Amazon.

Other ruins, Choquequirao on the Apurimac River, Ñusta España and
Vitcos on the Vilcabamba River, are more difficult of access, though
by no means impossible; but to investigate all would require weeks.
Before undertaking such journeys, one should read the accounts of
other travelers and come suitably prepared; they are not for the
ordinary tourist. When the railroad has been extended from Huancayo
to Cuzco, a very expensive work, the completion of which may be
delayed for some years, this wonderfully romantic region will
attract many visitors.

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