Chapter XIV: The City of La Paz

The _Grand Hotel Guibert_ is well situated at a corner of the
principal Plaza. Though not on the square, several windows overlook
it and from many the music of the band concerts may be heard on
Sunday and Thursday evenings. The hotel entrance is on the calle
Comercio, one of the principal streets of the city, running
longitudinally in the valley. The side windows, on a street running
down the steep hill, look across upon the side walls of the
Cathedral which fronts upon the Plaza. The hotel, with two stories
in front and three in the rear, is an ancient structure several
centuries old, with handsome carvings on the inner walls. These once
surrounded a large patio, originally open to the sky and with a
sloping pavement, which might be entered from the side street. In
1903, the patio was occasionally occupied by a drove of llamas, or
by men discharging freight, or with other matters; but now, roofed
and floored, it has been converted into a large dining-room. The
cookery is a combination of French, Spanish, and Indian styles. The
hotel has a rather narrow entrance and stairway, and no salon or
parlor in which guests may be received. The chambers, provided with
electric bells and lights, are quite palatial with expensive French
furniture, thick carpets, canopied bedsteads with embroidered sheets
and splendid blankets. The luxurious bed, placed by the door, leaves
a large space near the window as a drawing-room where callers may be
entertained. When a foreign minister arrived, tall and stately
screens were brought in to partition off the bed from the rest of
the apartment. After Cuzco and Arequipa, the hotel will seem quite
cosmopolitan and satisfactory, though the arrangement of bathrooms
and toilet on an inner patio leaves something to be desired. So
crowded is the hotel that sufficient accommodations are hardly
afforded by the main building and two dependencies, one on the Plaza
facing the palace, the other, three stories high, on the same calle
Comercio three blocks nearer the station. To secure a good room or
even to be sure of any, it is wise to telegraph from Arequipa or
Cuzco. Prices vary from 7 to 15 _bol._ a day for room and board, 8
or 10 being the average fee except for the largest rooms. Morning
coffee is served in one’s room, _almuerzo_ is from 11 to 2, the
crowd coming between 12.30 and 1.

Another hotel nearer the station, kept by a German, is said to be
very neat, and good for the money, the price being lower. It was
rumored in 1911 that the millionaire mine owner, Señor Patiño, had
purchased a corner on this street on which to erect a large
up-to-date establishment. This would be a boon in view of the
rapidly increasing travel. On the street floor of the Guibert is a
large café, a good part of the day and evening filled to overflowing
with gentlemen, both natives and foreigners, at small tables,
regaling themselves with a cocktail or some other beverage,
discussing business or politics, or shaking dice, to the serious
neglect, I was told, of the important affairs of life, as is
frequently the case elsewhere.

CATHEDRAL AND GOVERNMENT PALACE
]

HALL OF CONGRESS, MONUMENT TO MURILLO
]

The city of _La Paz_ (population 80,000) on both sides of the
Chuquiapu River, which flows at the bottom of the cañon in a
southeasterly direction, has the greater part on the left bank. From
above it appears as if on the broad floor of a valley, but later it
is seen that both banks rise steeply from the stream. Thus while the
main streets running parallel to the river have but slight incline,
those at right angles are so steep as to make carriage driving
almost impossible. Both streets and sidewalks are narrow, and paved
with small cobblestones, though the walks have also blocks of stone,
alternating checkerboard fashion with the squares of cobbles. So
narrow are the walks that only two may go abreast, the gentlemen
often stepping into the gutter to allow a lady to pass. In fact on
the steep ways many prefer the middle of the street as being less
slippery, a safe enough place, as on these one meets chiefly other
pedestrians or llamas. The latter are one of the main attractions
and charms of La Paz, troops of graceful animals occasionally
blocking the streets, bringing ice perhaps from the glaciers of
Illimani or some nearer and invisible mountain; or _taquia_, the
dung of the llama, here the chief fuel; or carrying away imported
merchandise to Indians or others, dwelling off the few lines of
railway.

The multitude of Indians (_Aymarás_, less prepossessing than the
_Quichuas_) and of _cholos_, who together form nine-tenths of the
population of Bolivia and two-thirds that of La Paz, also gives a
picturesque novelty to the place, attracting eager attention if not
admiration by the strangeness of their personality and garb. The
Indian men bearing loads or driving herds of llamas, both apparently
belonging to some remote patriarchal age, the women sitting in the
streets or squares, knitting as they preside over the sale of
edibles, knit goods, or other wares, or handing out a bowl of
_chupe_ (soup) to a patron, the _cholas_ (women of the half-breeds)
in gay attire, are a constant source of interest.

One’s sight-seeing naturally begins with the open square close to
the hotel, called the _Plaza Murillo_ from the patriot, Pedro
Domingo Murillo, executed here in 1810. This, too, is the spot where
independence was first declared in 1809. The square has seen many
turbulent episodes. In 1894 the existing park was laid out. The
fountain in the center was the work of a talented Indian, Feliciano
Cantula, in 1855.

On the same side of the Plaza as the Cathedral is the _Government
Palace_, erected in 1885; an earlier structure having been destroyed
by fire. This contains the offices of many state officials and in
the upper story the office and residence of the President and his
family. In October, 1908, a grand ball was here given by President
Montes in honor of the Princess Argendoña of Sucre, on which
occasion the large patio was entirely floored over at the second
story to form a ball room, which with the corridors was handsomely
decorated with hangings of heavy broadcloth in various colors. The
affair was altogether elegant, the costumes of the ladies in the
latest Parisian modes, the refreshments most elaborate; ices, cakes,
and wine were served at small tables throughout the evening, and at
two, a fine supper with soup, hot meats, roast beef, turkey, etc.,
delicious salads, and other viands. The dancing, which began about
eleven, continued until seven a.m.

Across the corner is the _Hall of Congress_, a fine new edifice
completed in 1905, though sufficiently advanced for the inauguration
of President Montes in 1904. In addition to the Chambers of the
Senate and the House of Deputies, the building contains among other
offices those of the Minister of Foreign Relations. The _Cathedral_,
close to the Hotel Guibert, in process of construction, is likely to
continue thus for many years. In 1835 a design was adopted of a
Bolivian architect, Padre Manuel Sanauja. The foundations were laid
in 1843, when stone cutters were imported from Europe to instruct
the Indians in cutting and polishing the stone. They proved apt
pupils and were soon qualified to continue the work, which has,
however, been much delayed through troublous times and the fact that
railroads and other projects for material advancement seemed of
greater importance. Now, however, with an appropriation of 100,000
_bol._ annually, the construction is slowly but steadily proceeding
according to plans of Señor Camponoro adopted in 1900. The structure
when finished will be the largest and most expensive cathedral
erected in South America since the Independence, and may be the
finest of any. Covering 4000 square meters it will be capable of
seating 12,000 persons. Of the Græco-Roman style, it will have five
naves with columns of polished stone, towers nearly 200 feet high,
and a dome, the top of which will be 150 feet above the floor.
_Berenguela_, a native marble, will be used for the great altar.

Two blocks north of the Plaza is the pro-Cathedral, the church of
_Santo Domingo_, where such services are held as are regarded as
functions of State. Thus on the day of the funeral of Pope Leo XIII
in 1903, a procession including the President, the Ministers of
State, and other Bolivian officials, with members of the Diplomatic
Corps, all in evening dress, the customary garb on formal occasions
in South America and Europe, marched from the Palace to the Church
with a large escort of soldiery, a regiment also lining the streets
en route.

The city contains twelve other churches, five public chapels, five
convents, and three monasteries. The handsomest church is that of
_San Francisco_ on a plaza of the same name, down on a fairly level
space in the hollow. A church and convent were erected here in 1547,
but the present edifice dates from 1778. Its façade of carved stone
attracts attention, from its excellent design and workmanship. The
interior has three naves and eight altars, besides a high altar of
carved cedar. The convent with accommodations for two hundred at
last accounts had but fourteen inmates, though recently
reconstructed from a legacy left by a rich lady of La Paz. The
convent contains one of the largest libraries of Bolivia.

Besides several other plazas, either entirely paved or having a
little green, there is the usual _Alameda_ nearly half a mile long,
which, like the Plaza Murillo, has been the scene of conflicts. On
the right bank of the stream towards the lower end of the city, this
quiet promenade, ornamented with several rows of trees, has broad
driveways, a wide central walk with pools which swans adorn, and
fountains with basins containing gold fish. At each end of the
Alameda are portals, of which the lower, leading to the Plaza de la
Concordia and the Avenida Arce, was taken from a convent cloister
and set up here in 1828. Along the Alameda are many new and pretty
residences in rather modern style, without a central patio, as also
above and beyond, this being a very fashionable and growing section
of the city. The tints of pale blue, green, yellow, crushed
strawberry, etc., in which the houses are painted, in the clear
sunlight and contrasting shadows present a gay and pleasing
appearance.

More interesting to many than plaza or _alameda_ is the _Market
Place_ found on the calle Mercado, parallel to the Comercio, and two
blocks down the hill. Going down the street at the corner by the
Guibert and turning to the left, the entrance to the market, an
arched portal, will be found in the middle of the third block on the
right hand. Though not very noticeable the market place occupies the
greater part of the square, the site of the former convent of San
Augustín. The best time for a visit is as early as possible on
Sunday morning, when hundreds or thousands of Indians come in from
outlying districts. The adjacent streets, as well as the market, are
thronged with these strange looking people. Both men and women have
bare legs and feet, though some wear sandals. Their heads are more
carefully protected with woolen hood and hat. The men’s trousers are
noticeable, wide at the pockets according to Spanish style at the
time of the Conquest, and with a slit up the back, showing white
drawers underneath. Made of dark cloth they are often worn lining
side out to preserve them from damage while wearers are at work,
when they appear gray. The women wear several short heavy skirts,
and over woolen waists a shawl or two, in one of which a baby is apt
to be carried on the back. The _chola_ women are much gayer in
attire, with many bright colored woolen skirts, red, green, blue,
yellow, one showing below another, or with a richly embroidered,
white under-petticoat, these standing out like a balloon. They
generally wear a jaunty white or gray hat resembling a derby,
several shawls, often open-worked stockings, and shoes with high
French heels. A great contrast to these are the Spanish American
ladies, in the morning on the way to church or market robed in
black, the black _manta_ over their heads, but when calling or
visiting attired in the latest Paris fashions. The gentlemen, too,
are extremely punctilious as to correct dress, appropriate to the
hour and the function.

STREET NEAR THE MARKET
]

IN THE CEMETERY OF LA PAZ
]

Within the market place and on the streets around are women sitting
by their stalls, in the doorways and on the sidewalks, selling their
wares, dried and fresh fruits, vegetables, hot soup, _chuños_ (dried
potatoes), _chalona_ (dried sheep), and articles of almost every
kind; shoes, stockings, salt, sugar, meat, coca leaves, rather
coarse native lace, or cheap, imported, machine-made, funny little
rag dolls in Indian garb, five or ten _centavos_ each, red beans
which would make a pretty necklace (they are not real beans), soft
woolen mitts, mittens, and caps, and coarse caps or hoods, with face
masks. The women are always knitting (except at meal time) when not
employed with a customer. People will be found here at any hour of
the day and one may go again and again with interest; the numerous
babies and toddlers, though dirty, add to the picturesqueness of the
scene. The women seem pleasant and more prepossessing than the men.
The knitted articles are astonishingly cheap and the dolls are of a
quaint ugliness. Everything may be found here but flowers, which are
sold in a square above by the La Merced church on a prolongation of
the calle Comercio. Sweet peas, pansies, roses, and other flowers
brought from the valley below are sold at a ridiculously low figure.
A _bolivian_ will purchase as many as you can carry.

There are many good shops in La Paz, the dry goods, mostly on the
calle Comercio or the Mercado; the largest called El Condor, with
several branches, doing an immense business. There are book stores,
banks, and all ordinary institutions. The house of W. R. Grace is on
the calle Mercado towards the market. The _Post Office_ is on the
calle Comercio just beyond the Palace, the office of the Prefect is
on the floor above. A short distance down the steep street between
is the Police Station.

On the side of Plaza Murillo opposite the Capitol, at the upper
corner is the building, entrance on Ingavi, which contains the
Library of the _Geographical Society_ and the office of Don Manuel
V. Ballivián, geographer and statistician, formerly Minister of
Agriculture, who speaks English fluently and is most courteous in
giving information to students, explorers, or investigators of the
resources of the country. The Geographical Society, of which Mr.
Ballivián is President, has by its publications and research
contributed much to the knowledge of the country, which Mr.
Ballivián has himself extensively explored. He is author and editor
of many valuable works.

On the first floor of the same building, with entrance on the Plaza,
is the _Museum of Natural History and Industrial Propaganda_,
containing specimens of the flora, fauna, and great mineral wealth
of the country, ancient sculpture, aboriginal mummies found on the
plateau, pottery of the Inca period and earlier, and other
paraphernalia, as well as curious examples of modern textiles, and
other work and implements of the civilized and savage Indians.

Passing one block along Ingavi and turning to the right one will
find on the left the _Theater_, of modern construction, recently
remodeled and equal to the average theater anywhere. Entertainments
here given are frequently subsidized by the Government; as, however
well patronized, the receipts would hardly be sufficient to pay a
company for the long expensive journey from the sea coast. At the
corner, before turning up the street, is the _Municipal Library_ and
free reading room, open day and evening, where, as in all quarters,
the inquiring stranger will receive the greatest courtesy. On the
block beyond the theater is the _University_.

As in other cities of the West Coast there is a _Bull Ring_ in the
outskirts where occasional fights are held with skillful Spanish
_toreadors_. Several pleasant walks may be taken by one who is fond
of hill climbing. A little _Chapel_ at the top of the left wall of
the cañon to some may seem inviting. It is an hour’s walk, with
suitable pauses affording attractive views of the city and cañon;
but the arrival is disappointing, for a further though moderate
slope cuts off the expected view of plateau and distant mountains.
How much farther one would have to go to obtain this, I am unable to
state. Some writers warn the stranger not to walk at this altitude
except for short distances. It is well to be cautious the first day,
especially if there is the slightest symptom of discomfort, and at
any time persons should avoid too rapid walking, especially uphill,
and be careful not to overdo. This is a great country for climbing,
its opportunities yet unimproved, Illimani (21,000 feet) being the
only one of its high mountains whose summit (by Sir Martin Conway)
has yet been reached. There is no better exercise, providing the
recreation is wisely pursued; but of course not every one can endure
the altitude even of La Paz, to say nothing of 8000 or 10,000 feet
more.

A walk down the valley may afford pleasure, though the majority may
prefer to employ a carriage, or a horse. On foot he will hardly get
far unless taking a whole day. The road winds around, and the wall
blocking the lower end of the cañon is more distant than it looks.
It is a delightful little drive to Obrajes, three miles distant.
Every one should go at least so far, and will then wish to continue.
The curious shapes of the cañon walls, the bright variegated colors
of the cliffs, the road winding in great curves down the rapidly
descending cañon, the beautiful green of alfalfa meadows, the pretty
villas and gardens, and glorious Illimani above, excite ever
increasing admiration. One with plenty of time at his disposal may
ride down the valley to a hacienda, Cebollullo, at the foot of
Illimani, enjoying the most magnificent scenery; but two days would
be needed to go and return. Down this cañon one may proceed to the
Yungas Valley, whence come the vegetables and fruits for the La Paz
market. A railway will some day open up this country, extending to
Puerto Pando on the navigable waters of the Beni, whence one may
cross the continent to Pará by boat and by the newly constructed
Madera-Mamoré Railway, but our tour does not lie in that direction.

An excursion on foot or horseback may be made to the noted gold mine
Chuquiaguillo, a league from the city, which in the eighteenth
century produced one hundred and twenty-five million dollars gold.
Here Indians were washing for gold when the Spaniards arrived and
here they work still under a German superintendent, the gravel
yielding about thirty-five cents gold a cubic foot, with an
occasional nugget. One found in 1905 contained 45 oz. of gold. It
was recently reported that this property has been purchased by
Americans, the Bolivian Goldfields Company.

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