Chapter XXII: Argentina—across the Plains to Buenos Aires

The great country of Argentina, the largest we have yet visited, in
South America second only to Brazil, has more than five times the
area of France and above one-third that of the United States.
Considerably longer than the latter country, though not so wide, its
latitude compares with that from Key West to Hudson Bay, a distance
of 2200 miles; its width varies from 200 to 1000 miles. Its great
length from north to south assures wide variety in climate, aside
from changes in elevation, of which there is not much after getting
away from the Andes. The climate range is from Sicily or hotter to
Iceland, less than in corresponding latitudes in North America.

The central part of the country now to be traversed is the great
pampa section, largely a region of cattle raising, where the soil is
from 3 to 6 feet thick; farther north and east in the Paraná basin,
where wheat, sugar, and many other products are raised, the soil is
from 30 to 100 feet thick. In Patagonia at the south the plains are
of sand and gravel, requiring irrigation except for a few small
fertile valleys. A rich country is Argentina, now forging ahead with
wonderful strides.

The journey to Buenos Aires is made from Mendoza in twenty-four
hours by the express trains, chiefly composed of sleeping cars.
These have by the windows at one side an aisle, from which
staterooms open with berths one above another running cross-wise of
the car. Each room contains a lavatory, electric lights and fan. By
day there is a long leather-covered seat, less comfortable than
those in our sleepers, and far less than on the despised narrow
gauge railway from Oruro to Antofagasta. A dining car is attached to
the train, furnishing fair meals at reasonable prices.

Leaving Mendoza by daylight, a region of vineyards with a few towns
may be seen for some miles, and at harvest time men and women by
thousands engaged in picking the great clusters of grapes; but soon
an arid country is reached, not like the West Coast deserts farther
north, but resembling our western plains. There is a scanty growth
of scrub and an excessive amount of dust, which in great profusion
creeps through the single windows to the discomfort of all
passengers. Here there is almost no rainfall, and one need not
regret passing in the night. _Santa Rosa_, a town fifty miles from
Mendoza, has some historic importance as the site of two battles in
the civil wars of 1874, where the national forces, defeated in
October, were in December victorious under Col. Julio A. Roca.

Near the small station _Balde_, 75 miles farther, is a noted
artesian well 2000 feet deep, sunk in this arid region by the
National Government at a cost of 150,000 _pesos_. Boring was begun
March 31, 1884, with a tube of 20 inches diameter, decreasing
gradually to 3½ inches. Not until October 12, 1887, did water begin
to gush, at last in great quantity, estimated by some at 8000
liters, by others at 200,000 liters an hour, a rather wide margin.
The water having a temperature of 105° is drinkable and of great
value.

A little beyond is the town of _San Luis_ (population 15,000)
founded in 1597 by the Governor of Chile. From raising alfalfa, land
has increased in value ten fold, being now worth $5 or $6 an acre.
Cattle raising is a special industry of the province, also the sale
of green onyx, beds of which lie to the north.

_Villa Mercedes_, a town of about the same size, is an important
railway junction. One might here take a train by way of Villa Maria
to Córdoba, if desirous of visiting that historic city. From here to
Buenos Aires is a region of rainfall and of wonderful fertility, the
great cattle ranches, formerly covering the whole country, being to
some extent superseded by the cultivation of the soil; wheat,
linseed, and corn are produced in immense quantities. It may be
noted in passing that Argentina is the greatest exporter (not
producer) of cattle and of cereals of any country in the world. At
many stations there is but a house or two, an adobe hut occupied by
an Italian or by a _gaucho_, a cowboy of mixed race, Spanish and
Indian. Yet in the season 6000 tons of wheat may be seen at one of
these stations, representing great wealth. The freight cars,
weighing 12½ tons, will carry a load of 40 tons, this being a broad
gauge road with straight and almost level track, inclining slightly
to the sea. The longest _straight_ in the world is here found, 175
miles in direct line, and, but for one S curve, 206 miles. Bronzed
cattlemen may be seen at the stations, and along the way thousands
of splendid cattle; then a sea of cultivated limitless plain,
interesting for a while, but presently monotonous to many.

Between Villa Mercedes and _Mackenna_, 40 miles, is a very rich zone
containing many elegant dwellings of modern style with city
comforts, amid gardens and orchards, fields of vegetables and
cereals.

_Rufino_, another railroad center, is a station of hurry and bustle.
A wonderful change has taken place in this region in the last 25
years, from a lonely expanse with a rare dwelling and a few native
cattle to villages, splendid herds, and grain fields whose products
always outrun the provision of sheds and storehouses. Near the
station _Vedia_, the end of the _straight_ from Mackenna, is the
noted _estancia_ or ranch of Señor Benito Villanueva of 35,000
acres, which contained some years ago 14,000 Shorthorn cattle,
besides Lincoln and Shropshire sheep, and 1200 horses of Clydesdale,
Suffolk, and Hackney. A station on a branch line is called Gen.
Arenales after the owner of an important establishment, with
creamery and cheese factory making 200 pounds of cheese a day.

A busy town is _Junín_ on the site of a fort from which forces
sallied Dec. 10, 1876, against an invasion of cattle-stealing
Indians. The latter were routed and the cattle saved. Here are
railroad workshops employing 1000 men, and an electric establishment
supplying light for the city and power for the making of butter,
cream, and ice. Land here is worth more than $1.00 a square foot.
Perhaps a _peso_ was meant.

Fifteen kilometers from the town of _Chacabuco_ is the _estancia_
San Gregorio especially devoted to raising Hereford and Durham
bulls, Lincoln sheep, Hackney, Morgan, and Clydesdale horses, collie
dogs, terriers, and fowls of the Wyandotte, Plymouth Rock, Brahma,
and other breeds. Seven thousand dollars was paid by the owner for a
single bull.

Near _Mercedes_, a city of 15,000, is an _estancia_ of 40,000 acres.
This in addition to other blooded stock has many race horses, now
used for breeding, which formerly won fame in Europe. For one of
these the owner paid $150,000.

The station _Open Door_ is so called from a remarkable governmental
establishment for healing the mentally diseased by the outdoor
system, work in the fields.

At _Muñiz_, 20 miles from Buenos Aires, there is a Campo de Mayo, a
field for military exercises, where reviews frequently occur
attracting many spectators. Close by is a famous _estancia_, that of
Noberto Quirno, 4200 acres, fenced with wire, divided into 18
enclosures. Besides the pure blooded cattle, acres of the finest
fruit, and an elegant residence, there is a dove-cote, supplying 40
to 50 pairs of pigeons daily.

The town, _Hurlingham_, 15 miles from the city, almost in the
suburbs, is much frequented by those athletically inclined. A
hippodrome containing apparatus for physical exercises is the scene
of frequent hippie and athletic reunions with large and
distinguished crowds. There is a race track of 2000 meters for
horses, grounds for tennis, polo, cricket, etc., with pavilions for
spectators, restaurant, garage, stables, and dog kennels. The whole,
covering 22 squares, belongs to a society with 6000 members. At the
opening of the season occurs an annual fête called Gymkchana. Among
other sports is a Whistling Race. In this, after 500 yards, men must
pause before a lady and whistle a tune, the name of which she hands
to him on paper.

In the real suburbs of Buenos Aires, at _Villa Devoto_, 10 miles
from the city station, is a rifle range established by the Italians.
The field, 1000 meters long and 100 wide, has a shooting gallery 550
meters long. Of the 30 targets 24 are for guns at from 300 to 500
meters, and six for revolvers at 10 meters. English societies have
here tennis and golf grounds. Among many chalets with fine gardens
is one belonging to John A. Hall containing about 1500 varieties of
orchids. Of two asylums in the place, one called Umberto Primo, was
the gift of the philanthropist Antonio Devoto, of which the
cornerstone was laid February, 1904, by Prince Luigi de Savoia, Duke
of the Abruzzi. From this suburb a tramway conducts to the city,
passing on the way a Dispensary for the Tuberculous, and the
National School of Agriculture and Veterinary, which was inaugurated
September, 1904. Continuing by rail, one has on the left a glimpse
of the river, and on both sides, of the Palermo Park, before
reaching the station Retiro, a short distance from the center of
=Buenos Aires=.

This wonderful city, the Metropolis of South America, which in
the last half century has grown at a rate exceeded by few in the
United States, was founded as early as 1535 by Pedro de Mendoza;
but being twice destroyed or abandoned on account of troubles
with the Indians, its permanent settlement dates from 1580. For
this the honor belongs to Juan de Garay, Acting Governor of the
Province of which Asunción was the capital. The latter city had
been founded in 1536 by Juan de Ayolas, sent thither to discover
a way through to the rich country of Peru. This colony, more
fortunate than Buenos Aires, endured, and for many years
Asunción was the chief city of this part of South America.
Several other settlements were made in the present Argentine
country before the permanent establishment of Buenos Aires:
Santiago de Estero in 1553; and within ten years thereafter,
Mendoza, San Juan, and Tucumán.

The name, Buenos Aires, dates from 1535 when Pedro de Mendoza,
January 6, inaugurated the city of Santa María de Buenos Aires,
in recognition of the sailors’ devotion to Nuestra Señora del
Buen Aire, their especial patroness at Cadiz; tradition also has
it that on disembarking here one said to another, “Que buenos
aires son los de este suelo!” “What good airs are there on this
land!” The town founded February 2, 1535, was practically
destroyed by Indians and abandoned in 1541. In 1580 Garay with
sixty-three colonists, provisions, tools, etc., coming from
Asunción, on disembarking Sunday, June 11, 1580, proceeded to an
elevated spot, where now is Parque Lezama. There he pronounced
in Spanish the words, “City of the Trinity and Port of Santa
Maria of Buenos Aires, I baptize thee in the name of the Father,
Son, and Holy Ghost.” All, saying Amen, then knelt to ask a
blessing on the city to be founded. Proceeding north to an open
space on the wooded shore they fixed upon the present Plaza de
Mayo as the center of the city and placed the first stone at the
corner of Rivadavia and San Martin. The new city was arranged in
sixteen squares from north to south along the river front, and
in nine squares east to west, with farms and gardens beyond.
While the general trend of the river and the shore on this side
is northwest to southeast, the front just here is almost due
north and south, the Avenida de Mayo, at right angles, therefore
running east and west.

The growth of the city was slow, being much hampered by strange
regulations of the Mother Country. No commerce was permitted,
either imports or exports, hence smuggling became popular. While
the Viceroy at Lima was ruler of the entire country, his
practical authority was here small, the _Audiencia_ in Charcas
(now Sucre), Bolivia, being in charge of the country east of the
Andes. Subordinate to this were the Royal Governors of the
Provinces, always Spanish, while the cities were ruled by
_Cabildos_ of from six to twelve members who were natives or
creoles. These serving for life had charge both of judicial and
administrative matters. The troubles with the Indians, and with
the Portuguese who had settlements on the opposite bank may be
passed over, but those with the British should be mentioned. At
last, after about two hundred years, Buenos Aires in 1776 had a
Viceroy of her own and more liberal government; unfortunately
too late to undo the evil which had been wrought, although trade
now flourished and the population soon doubled. In June, 1806, a
squadron under Admiral Popham, and General Beresford with
fifteen hundred men landed below Buenos Aires then a city of
about 40,000. The Viceroy fled and June 27 the British occupied
the city. A French officer, Liniers, in Spanish employ,
procuring one thousand regular troops and some cannon in
Montevideo, approached the city and was joined at his camp by
many. The British on the advance of the army of Liniers, August
12, after hard street fighting, finally surrendered; the British
flags then captured are still preserved in Buenos Aires as
trophies. Four months later the British again came and with four
thousand troops captured Montevideo. General Whitelock
approaching Buenos Aires put to flight the army of Liniers which
had come out to meet him; but on entering the city, July 5,
stubborn street fighting ensued, and after forcing their way to
the barricaded Plaza and losing in two days one-quarter of their
men, the British agreed to withdraw and to evacuate Montevideo
within two months.

This experience inspired in the Argentines a feeling of
self-reliance. Accordingly when Napoleon, after he had overrun
the Spanish peninsula, demanded, May 22, 1810, the resignation
of the new Viceroy Cisneros, who had taken office in 1809, an
armed assembly came together in the Plaza and proclaimed the
_Cabildo_ supreme in authority. While Acts were made in the name
of Ferdinand VII, the Spanish ruler of Castile and Leon, then in
prison, this date is regarded as that of the dawn of
Independence. The _Cabildo_ sent armies in various directions
and bloody combats ensued, several at first successful, then
with varying results. There were long troublous times, though
Buenos Aires never again fell under foreign sway, and the
sentiment of independence became firmly established by 1812. In
this year returned from Europe the great patriot, San Martin,
who, through the labors of the historian, Bartolomé Mitre, is
now generally recognized as the savior of South American
Independence.

San Martin, born, February 25, 1778, of a creole mother and a
Spanish officer father in a small mission town of the Jesuits on
the Uruguay River, was taken to Spain at the age of eight years,
educated in the best military schools, and served in many wars.
Having imbibed liberal ideas he returned to Buenos Aires in
March, 1812, and later, with a chosen company of the best
youths, proceeded to Mendoza, where for three years he was
forming and drilling an army for the purpose of invading Chile.
This he did in January, 1817, the battle of Chacabuco, February
12, giving that country its independence. Going to Peru with his
army in 1820, he proceeded himself to meet Bolívar in Guayaquil.
When the latter rejected the coöperation proffered, San Martin
gave up the army which he had organized and withdrew to Buenos
Aires, suffering the imputation of cowardice without a word, and
returning to Europe to live in reduced circumstances until his
death at Boulogne in 1850.

Independence was formally declared by a Congress in Tucumán,
July 9, 1816. From 1812 to 1862 civil and other wars were
frequent. July 9, 1825, a National Constitution was adopted, and
in 1826, Rivadavia, a very able man, became the first President.
The greatest constructive statesman of the period, he undertook
to reform the laws and administration, created the University of
Buenos Aires, founded hospitals, etc., and engaged in war with
Brazil, by which Uruguay became independent. But after a single
year of office, on account of dissensions, he resigned. In 1829,
following two years of strife, de Rosas became President and in
1835 Dictator. His name and his tyranny are regarded with
detestation. Defeated June 8, 1852, by General Urquiza, he fled
to the British Legation and later to England.

In 1853 Buenos Aires was recognized as an independent state, but
in 1857 the Porteños or harbor people, as the residents of the
city are called, under General B. Mitre were defeated by General
Urquiza and again joined the Confederation. In 1861 another
battle occurred under the same generals with a victory for
Mitre, who then became President of the entire nation and by
granting the Provinces autonomy succeeded in creating better
feeling. In 1868 Dr. Sarmiento, a broad-minded scholar, was
peacefully elected and did much to promote education and develop
the nation’s resources. His successor, Dr. Avellanda, had a more
troublous term of office. General Roca who followed, 1880,
gained his position by hard fighting. He first declared the city
the Federal District of the nation, promoted railway extension,
and put down dissensions. After Dr. Celman had misgoverned for
four years, Carlos Pellegrini finished the six years’ term in
good fashion. Dr. Saenz Peña followed in 1892, but becoming
unpopular, resigned; and the Vice President filled out his
administration. Another term for General Roca was succeeded in
1904 by that of Dr. Quintana and after his death Dr. Alcorta;
the present incumbent, Dr. Roque Saenz Peña, taking office
October 12, 1910.

=Buenos Aires=, the Metropolis of South America, resembles Chicago
in being located on the level frontier of a great prairie, and on
the border of a large body of fresh water; at the same time it is
like New York in being the chief seaport of a great nation. The
so-called Rio de la Plata or La Plata River is in reality more of an
estuary; so wide as to have rather the effect of a bay or gulf.
Formed by the union of two rivers, the Paraná and the Uruguay, the
La Plata basin is the second largest in the world, the flow of the
river being 80 per cent greater than that of the Mississippi. And
here let me make a feeble protest against the usage, general among
the English, and now copied in the United States, of speaking of
this water as the River Plate. Was there ever an uglier name in
sound or sense? Were there any difficulty in saying La Plata there
might be some excuse. True, one is liable to commit a tautology by
saying the La Plata River, a repetition of the _the_ in another
language, but some sins are worse, and one to my mind is changing
Plata to Plate. Plata means silver. Why not then call it the Silver
River, if one would translate, or else say the Plata River? I, at
least, give notice here that in this book it shall be properly
called. The first _a_ of course has the sound of _ah_.

The river is here 28 miles wide, so that one does not see the
opposite shore except from a height such as the Capitol dome. It is
125 miles long more or less, according to where you consider the
ocean line, Buenos Aires being called about 100 miles from the sea
and 90 from Montevideo. The city, 65 feet above sea level, has like
Chicago plenty of room to grow and has improved the opportunity to
extend itself until in area it is one of the largest cities in the
world, three times as large as Berlin, but smaller than London or
New York. Its population, according to the last accounts, 1913, is
about a million and a half. Thus it is the fourth city in the
Western Hemisphere and the second Latin city in the world. At its
present rate of growth it will soon be crowding Paris; some day,
perhaps, it may become the first in population of the cities founded
and ruled by a Latin race.

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