Chapter XIX: Santiago—continued

In all Spanish American countries the parks are an important
feature. In some respects the most beautiful, and one absolutely
unique in character, is that of _Santa Lucia_, which, however highly
praised, is almost certain to surpass expectation. The last of a row
of detached hills, it made in the early days a splendid stronghold
against the Indians. When no longer needed as a fort it became a
quarry, then a burial ground for Jews, infidels, and Protestants,
whose bones would have defiled the consecrated ground of the
Catholic Cemetery. But in 1872 these were removed to the new
Protestant Cemetery by the side of that occupied by the faithful,
and the hill was converted into a wonderfully beautiful park. About
three-quarters of a mile southeast of the Plaza de Armas, it is a
pleasant walk, or it may be reached by several lines of cars.
Covering a surface of six or seven acres it rises in irregular,
jagged, sometimes perpendicular walls, gradually narrowing to a
pavilion-covered summit 400 feet above, whence on a clear day, and
especially at sunset, there is an enchanting view. The city is
spread out below, distinct in every feature, surrounded by the broad
expanse of fertile plain 40 miles long and 18 wide, fringed by
ranges of steep hills and mountains, the latter on the east
snow-crowned and forming a splendid rampart 15,000 feet tall.
Aconcagua, visible from the sea and from Valparaiso, is unseen here
on account of the nearer approach to the lower peaks in front,
behind which it disappears from view. As often as time permits will
those who delight in nature’s beauty climb this hill (splendid
exercise, too) to see the sunset glow on the snow-capped mountains,
especially when a slightly clouded sky gives assurance of lovely
hues and the certainty of a truly enchanting scene.

Almost as beautiful to look at as to look from is this Cerro which
natural and artificial charms render unique among all cities.
Embellished by public and private munificence, especially by
Benjamin Mackenna, the hill is a mass of green and blossoms,
luxuriant graceful vines, shrubs, and trees, among which are
glimpses of stairs and roadways, rock cliffs and walls, towers and
battlements, chapels and monuments, the whole a combination of
exceeding loveliness.

The most imposing entrance to this hill park is from the Plaza
Vicuña Mackenna near the Alameda, where stands a recently erected
statue of the gentleman, a fine bronze figure, at its foot a seated
Fame holding in her hand a wreath of laurel. Entering the carriage
drive (fee 5 _centavos_ for a pedestrian, 40 _centavos_ for a
carriage) a large brass plate may be noticed, a memorial to
Mackenna, here placed by the city. On a great boulder back of this
is a bronze Flora or Melpomene with inscription giving the date of
the inauguration of the Park, Sept. 17, 1874. On the other side of
the boulder is inscribed Huelen, the ancient Indian name for the
hill, signifying misfortune or sorrow, a curious name for so superb
a feature of the landscape. A little farther are two bronze lions,
copies of the famous ones at Florence. Beyond the next corner of the
winding road is the foundation stone of an old Spanish bridge
formerly stretching to the inscribed boulder. Built in 1787 it was
destroyed in 1888. Halfway up the hill is a small door in a
perpendicular rock wall, the entrance to the Seismological
Observatory, where record is made of the numerous ’quakes, and of
the observations conducted by M. le Conde de Montessus Ballores. A
little higher the carriage road ends on a wide terrace in front of a
spacious restaurant, well patronized for dining, especially during
the summer, when an orchestra discourses sweet music. At the left of
the road is a slab commemorating the removal of the bones of the
heretics once buried here. The inscription reads: “In memory of
those exiled from Heaven and Earth who in this place lay buried for
half a century, 1820-1872.”

PALACE OF FINE ARTS
]

ENTRANCE TO PARQUE, SANTA LUCIA
]

Beyond one must proceed on foot. On attaining the summit, having
viewed with admiration the lovely prospect, one may notice close at
hand, a little below, a castellated gateway, above which is an
ancient Spanish escutcheon here found buried. From the gateway a
narrow flight of steps leads to a small chapel where Benj. Mackenna
is interred and where services are held on the anniversary of his
death. Looking over the parapet one may see below the remnants of an
old gateway surmounted by two small Spanish guns. A little farther
down is a monument to the first archbishop of Santiago. The statue
of Pedro de Valdivia, on the spot where he built his fort, deserves
especial heed. The inscription reads: “The valiant Captain of
Estremadura, first Governor of Chile, who in this very spot encamped
his band of 150 conquerors, Dec. 13, 1540. Giving to these rocks the
name of Santa Lucia and forming of them a bastion he planned and
founded the city of Santiago, Feb. 12, 1541.” To see all the points
of beauty and interest one must ramble on foot by the pretty paths
leading in every direction to charming nooks or delightful outlooks.
At noon a cannon at the summit of the hill is daily discharged by
electricity from the Observatory in the Quinta Normal on the other
side of the city. A second and less picturesque entrance to the
Park, affording a more gradual ascent is well enough to leave by,
but is not a suitable introduction to this genuine fairy land.

Very different, and more like any other, is the _Parque Cousiño_
several miles distant. To see this at its best, one should go in
carriage or auto together with the fashionables, between the hours
of 5 and 7.30 p.m., when, particularly in the months September to
December inclusive, it is thronged with fine horses and carriages,
bearing the beauty and fashion of Santiago. Woods, pleasant walks,
well kept gardens, beautiful shrubs, weeping willows drooping over a
pretty lake, adorn the park; a good restaurant provides _almuerzo_,
afternoon tea, and dinner, the latter at four _pesos_, well
patronized and usually accompanied by music. There are cheap cafés,
merry-go-rounds, and stands for dancing, where on Sunday may be seen
the peculiar national dance of the Indians, _La Cueca_, where the
couples face each other, handkerchief in hand, and dance with
swaying gestures. In summer a biograph is usually in operation and
twice a week a military band plays from 9 to 11 p.m., when the park
is often crowded. Near the entrance is a large open grass plot with
a pavilion in the center, where a Military Review takes place Sept.
19. Bicycle races and football games are sports of the youthful
Chilians, who take more kindly to athletics than the young men of
some other countries. A lawn tennis club also is found here. The
electric cars numbered 19 come to the restaurant in the park, number
18 to the gate only.

This Park was presented to the city by the famous Señora Isadora
Cousiño, who was the richest woman in Chile before her marriage to
the richest man in the country. He, dying, left all his property to
her, as it was said that she had administered her estate better than
he had his. The Señora, now deceased, being worth many millions in
mines, railroads, steamships, cattle, and real estate, was a woman
of so lavish expenditures as to cause much gossip even in Europe.
Her residence in Santiago, of the Ionic order of architecture, is
one of the finest in South America. It was decorated by the French
artists who adorned the Paris Opera House. Her magnificent palace at
Loti, unfortunately incomplete, would undoubtedly surpass anything
at Newport. Outside Santiago she had an immense hacienda extending
to the mountains.

Another large park of different character, at the west of the town,
reached by Car No. 2 from the Plaza de Armas, is called the _Quinta
Normal_: a particularly desirable place for a drive, as the
buildings here are at a considerable distance apart. The fine trees
in this section, the green fields of the Agricultural College, and
the Botanical Garden are a pleasure to see. Some persons may be
interested, after driving about, to visit the _Agricultural
College_, the _Astronomical Observatory_, the _Meteorological
Station_, and the _Riding School_. The College established in 1845
by President Bulnes has been of much benefit. A cattle show is held
here annually. The _Botanical Garden_, though not large, deserves a
visit. It has some fine specimens of the Victoria Regia and other
aquatic plants, with a nice old German in charge. Apart from this
garden is a nursery where flowers, shrubs, and plants of great
variety are grown for the stocking of public gardens and parks. The
_Zoological Garden_ in this quarter does not amount to much beyond
presenting many natives of Chile; condors, eagles, vultures, with
others, in an aviary of Chilian birds; and domestic animals
including some fine fowls. There are a few bears and monkeys.

The _Natural History Museum_, also in this Quinta (north side),
contains a very complete collection of Chilian birds, fishes,
insects, and plants, made chiefly by a celebrated German naturalist,
Dr. Otto Philippi. Another section of greater interest to many,
contains Indian mummies, specimens of pottery, weapons, and relics
of colonial days. In 1911 the Museum was open Sundays and Thursdays
from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., but was expected later to be open daily. A
good restaurant pleasantly situated and well patronized is opposite
the calle Catedral not far from the Museum. An entire day is not too
much to devote to seeing the Quinta by persons with taste for these
matters, in which case the restaurant would be serviceable. The
_School of Arts and Trades_ for the training of mechanics and
tradesmen is located on the south side of the Quinta not far from
the Central Station.

Beyond the Parque Cousiño is the _Club Hípico_ or race course on the
outskirts of the city, with fine views of the Coast Cordilleras and
the Andes. Sunday afternoons and feast days races are held beginning
at 1.30, but most persons do not arrive until four. From August to
the end of December the whole city, meaning of course Society, is
said weekly to assemble there. In the Diez y ocho week, from the
17th to the 20th of September, it is difficult to get near the
Pavilion. There is a special enclosure for members, and behind the
Pavilion are little gardens where people go to take tea and meet
their friends. Tickets, three _pesos_ to the pavilion, five more to
enter the paddock, may be bought after 7 p.m. Saturdays at the
Cigarria La France, _Portal_ Fernández Concha, 18; in the Centro
Hípico, Pasaje Balmaceda, an arcade running from Huérfanos to the
Plaza; or at the entrance of the enclosure. Races on Saturday,
frequented more by sporting men than by Society, are at the
_Hipódromo_ on the north side of the river.

Along the bank of the Mapocho is another park, long and narrow,
called the _Forestal_, which with the embankment and bridges forms a
very pretty section of the city. At one end, in the Plaza Italia or
Colon, is a monument presented to the city by the Italian colonists
as a centenary gift, and on the opposite side of the beautiful
_Palace of Arts_, in the Plaza France, is one similarly presented by
the French colony. The _Palacio de Bellas Artes_ has a great
Statuary Hall with some fine copies and the best original work of
native Chilians. Nine spacious rooms contain a collection of
paintings, including some originals of old masters and many by
modern Chilian artists. The arrangement of the building is excellent
and the whole is a great credit to the city. A smaller park is the
_Plaza de Montt-Varas_ in the calle Compañia between Bandera and
Morande, on one side of which is the fine new _Palace of Justice_
occupying a whole block. In the park is a statue of a scholar, a
native of Venezuela, Don Andres Bello, a seated figure by Don
Nicenor Plaza. Bello, 1789-1865, was so highly regarded by the
Chilians that they declared him by works and public services to be a
true Chilian, and by a special law of Congress declared him a
citizen. Another statue is of two friends from college days, Don
Manuel Montt, ten years President of Chile, and Don Antonio Varas,
who worked together to promote the welfare of the country.

Housed in the old Congress Hall on Catedral street is the _National
Library_ which, with many books, contains a valuable collection of
historical documents, some of these, spoils brought from Lima, and
others, their own colonial archives: a place of much interest to the
scholar and antiquarian.

The _Market_, seldom a show place in cities of the United States,
everywhere in South America is an object of interest. Here it was
one of the benefactions of Benj. Mackenna. Best seen early Sunday
morning, it may be reached by following the 21st of May street from
the northeast corner of the Plaza. Besides the usual and _un_usual
profusion of fruits, vegetables, flowers, etc., may here be found
tiny baskets made by nuns, and little jugs of earthenware and
_mates_, some extremely minute. Another market on the north side of
the river is especially for vegetables.

A visit to the _Municipal Theater_ or Opera House should not be
omitted. Erected as long ago as 1873, it probably surpasses anything
of the kind in the United States, certainly presenting a finer
exterior. An imposing entrance hall has wide staircases leading to
the upper row of boxes. The Presidential box is large and elegantly
furnished with reception rooms, etc., at the back, and a box for his
lady guests below. There is a large foyer and refreshment rooms, and
there are seats for an audience of 4000. The opera season, though
short, is brilliant, with a company every year brought from Italy
for a month or more. Society is present in full force in immaculate
evening dress, gorgeous gowns, and sparkling jewels, a spectacle of
beauty, it is said, equaling that in any opera house of the world.

Santiago has many beautiful homes and pleasing residences, though
less in the pure Spanish style than in Peru: fewer wide doorways
admitting horsemen, and apparently smaller patios, of which one has
but a rare glimpse. Among noticeably fine residences are the
_Cousiño_ on Diez y ocho, the _Edwards_ on Catedral, corner Morande,
the _Umeneta_, Monjitas street; on the Alameda, the _Concha y Toro_
between Brazil and San Miguel, the _Ramon Valdez_ between 18 and
Castro, and the _Quinta Meiggs_ between Republica and España, this
having fifty or more rooms with elaborate furnishings.

An excursion which may be made by carriage, or by a good walker on
foot, is to the top of Cerro _San Christóbal_, 900 feet above the
city. A more superb view than from Santa Lucia is here afforded. At
this point of vantage is an _Observatory_, a branch of the noted
Lick Observatory of California. It is in charge of an American, Dr.
Moore, and was established by the late D. O. Mills. Lower down on a
prominent bluff is a colossal _Image of the Virgin_ with arms
outstretched towards the city as if in blessing. The pedestal
contains a small chapel in which services are held December 8, the
anniversary of her festival. On this night the statue, which with
its pedestal is 70 feet high, is illuminated so as to be visible to
the whole city. It is said to have been erected by women as a token
of gratitude for their preservation from the earthquake, and also to
celebrate the jubilee of the declaration of the Immaculate
Conception.

PALACIO DE LA MONEDA
]

CEMETERY IN ROSE TIME
]

The most important feature of the city to be visited, aside from
Santa Lucia, is,—the _Cemetery_. Let no one be surprised and say
that he does not care to visit such places. There are other
cathedrals, plazas, public buildings, etc., but this again is unique
and in many respects the most beautiful resting place for the dead
that I have seen in any land; especially in November, the month of
roses. A French lady resident, who did not find much else to please
her, was most enthusiastic over this. It may be reached by Car No. 8
from the Plaza de Armas. In front of the cemetery is a semi-circular
plaza with a colonnade. The gateway is surmounted by a lofty dome,
which bears a fine colossal group of statuary, Adam and Eve mourning
the death of Abel. The whole effect is imposing. In the corridors of
the entrance may be noticed the painted ceilings, and passing within
one will observe a stately chapel where masses are said for the
repose of the dear departed. Here in truth is a city of the dead,
with streets laid out at right angles, many of these lined with
beautiful houses, rows and rows of chapel-like tombs. In other
places are statues, columns, and memorials in various forms. Some of
the avenues are shaded by orange trees, magnolias, and the Jacarandá
or Brazilian rosewood; others have the tall, stately, and more
gloomy cypress; but when the roses blossom there is such a wealth of
these that there is no gloom anywhere. They are of various kinds and
colors, but most numerous, genuine large white roses which grow in
great vines sometimes on trees to a height of thirty feet, or over
the tombs, forming the most lovely framework imaginable. At the
festival of All Saints, November 1, the sight is unequaled in any
part of the world, as here this is at the height of the rose season,
when there is also a profusion of other flowers. The immense masses
of bouquets and floral devices of all kinds then placed upon the
tombs and graves, even the poorest on account of the small cost of
flowers being able to contribute, make of the already delightful
spot a veritable floral bower. Among noticeable monuments are a
bronze bust, near the entrance, on a black marble column, to the
litterateur, Andres Bello; in the calle Central in the rear of the
chapel is the white marble tomb of General Bernardo O’Higgins. Fifty
yards to the right and then turning to the left, one finds the
memorial erected over the remains of more than 2000 victims of the
holocaust in the Jesuit Church, the Compañia, Dec. 8, 1863, when a
gorgeous fête to the Virgin was in progress. The decorations of
paper flowers and festoons of gauze which were interspersed with
lighted candles, taking fire, fell among the crowd, chiefly women of
the higher classes who thronged the church. The doors opening
inward, the crowds, packed against them, made egress impossible, and
nearly 3000 are said to have perished. Few of the leading families
escaped bereavement and since that time this festival has been
solemnized with mourning.

The tombs of many of the Presidents are found on a street of that
name, and on the Magnolia are many of real beauty belonging to some
of the leading families. In the high wall of the enclosure which
covers many acres are niches for the reception of the coffins of the
poorer people. At the left of the General Cemetery as one faces the
entrance from without is that where the _Protestants_ are buried,
naturally much smaller and far less attractive.

On the way to the Cemetery one may pass on the Avendia Recoleta the
_Church of the Recoleta Dominica_ which deserves a call. The façade
presents a fine row of marble columns, the only edifice in the city
furnished with such decoration. The doors are of carved wood. The
interior is severely beautiful, avoiding the tawdriness exhibited in
many Catholic churches. There are double rows of handsome marble
columns with Corinthian capitals, a white marble chancel screen of
trellis work, and above the high altar a marble Madonna del Rosario.
The marble, imported from Italy, was brought in ox-carts from the
coast. Pretty cloisters are adjoining.

In the same avenue a little nearer the city, at the foot of Cerro
Blanco, is a small church rather dilapidated, La Viñita; of
historical interest as erected by Ines Juárez, who came with Pedro
de Valdivia, a woman of extraordinary courage both for enduring the
hard life, and even going into battle; if necessary engaging in
combat, when not attending to the wounded of both parties.

Santiago is an extremely religious place, so far at least as the
women are concerned, the gentlemen often being inclined to
agnosticism. Among the many churches the most important may be
mentioned. _La Merced_ at the corner of Merced and Claras is painted
a pale pink and has two towers. At the main entrance on Claras, on
each side of the carved wooden doors are two life-size paintings, on
the right, of Ramón Monato, on the left, of San Pedro Nolasco who
founded the Order Mercedarios. Within, the objects of interest are a
wooden crucifix with notably expressive eyes, a gift from Philip II
of Spain to the Order in Chile, an antique frame of solid silver
near the High Altar enclosing a statue of the Virgin, and an old
pulpit of native workmanship carved from a single tree trunk. The
four Evangelists are represented and at the base the four Symbols.
The church has an excellent organ and is famed for its fine music.

The _Santo Domingo_, one of the oldest churches in Santiago, at the
corner of Santo Domingo and the 21 de Mayo, has a beautiful silver
altar exhibited on especial occasions only. The little plaza in
front is gay with a small flower market, and nearly opposite on
Santo Domingo is an old Spanish gateway.

The _San Pedro_ is a pretty little church in Claras near by.

The large church of _San Augustín_, fronting on the Estado has a
ceiling covered with pictures of Saints, Prophets, Martyrs, and also
the Ten Commandments. A valued relic is a crucifix, concerning which
it is related that in the total destruction of the church by an
earthquake in 1730 this suffered no injury except that the crown of
thorns fell from the head to the neck, and that whenever an attempt
was made to replace the crown shocks occurred in the vicinity; it
therefore remains where it fell. On the anniversary, May 13, occurs
a great procession of monks and acolytes of various Orders,
chanting, swinging incense; and with lighted candles, bearing
beautifully embroidered banners, a robed figure of the Virgin, and
the Crucifix.

_El Salvador_, church of the Jesuits, erected after the destruction
of the Compañia in 1863, is on the Huérfanos and Almirante Barroso,
passed by Car 21. This church was damaged by the earthquake of 1906,
though Santiago was far less affected than Valparaiso. The interior
is gay with colors, each pillar being composed of small columns of
various hues, which are covered with designs in red, blue, and gold.
An angel at the foot of each column holds a plaque with emblems of
the Passion. Handsome stained glass windows portray scenes from the
life of Christ.

The _San Francisco_ in the Alameda, almost opposite calle San
Antonio, said to have been built by Valdivia, is plain with a flat
ceiling and one simple arch. All around are memorial tablets: on the
left of the chancel is a fine marble Crucifix in relief. Of great
interest as a historical relic, over the High Altar is the wooden
image of the Virgin in velvet robes embroidered with gold, which
Valdivia used to carry in his saddle-bags. Presented to the church
by the brave Captain, it is highly valued. On the right of the altar
is a small chapel to St. Anthony, on the extreme left, one to Our
Lady, with altar of colored marbles and two angels above.

The _University of Chile_ may be visited by those interested in
educational matters. It has several departments, the main building
on the Alameda, occupying the block between San Diego and Arturo
Prat. Here are the general offices, the University Library and the
Department of Physical and Natural Sciences termed the Engineering
School. A hall in the form of a theater is in the part of the
building which separates the two patios. A new Engineering building
in the suburbs was to receive this Department, then to be replaced
by the Law School, the largest of the various branches. In the
Quinta Normal is the building of the Medical School with handsome
classical façade, containing large halls, and patios ornamented with
shrubs and flowers. There is a modern building for the Dental School
and an annex for Pharmacy. It is interesting to note that in most of
the South American countries coeducation is rigorously avoided in
the lower schools while permitted in most of the universities,
conditions exactly opposite to those in some parts of the United
States. A good number of women in Chile study medicine, dentistry,
pharmacy, etc., with the men.

The _Military School_ on the Avenue Blanco Encalada facing the Diez
y ocho now occupies a fine large building after a checkered career.
Founded March 16, 1817, by the Supreme Director Bernardo O’Higgins,
it is the oldest in South America, though it has experienced several
interruptions. The present edifice was decreed in 1887 by the
progressive but unfortunate President Balmaceda, though not until
1903 did it become established as now existing. The school has as
its head a German officer, Col. Alfred Schoenmeyer, and provides
courses of instruction similar to those in the German institutions.
The building contains all suitable conditions of convenience and
hygiene, a covered riding school, shooting galleries, patio
facilities for gymnastics, laboratories of science and of military
models.

The _Military Museum_, in 1911 housed in the _Arsenales de_ _Guerra_
next to the Military School, by 1913 will probably be removed to a
new building erected for it in the Quinta Normal. It contains many
historical relics: the armor worn by Valdivia during the conquest, a
chair which he occasionally used in the brief intervals from
fighting, cannon brought over the Andes by Gen. San Martin to aid in
freeing the country of Spanish dominion; a marble urn enclosing the
hearts of four heroes who fell in the battle of Concepción in the
effort to save the Chilian colors from the hands of their Peruvian
opponents; the flag of the Esmeralda, commanded by Arturo Prat, and
sunk in the battle of Iquique May 21, 1879; a marble bust of Manuel
Rodriguez who, in the War of Independence, among other brave deeds
as scout and spy, three times crossed the Andes on foot; other
objects of interest, besides cannon, flags, arms, and trophies won
in many a fierce battle.

------------------------------------------------------------------------